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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/marketassistantc01devo 



THE 

MARKET ASSISTANT, 

CONTAINING A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OP 

EVERY ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD 

SOLD IN THE PUBLIC MARKETS 

OP THE CITIES OF 

NEW YORK, BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, AND BROOKLYN; 

INCLUDING THE VARIOUS 

DOMESTIC AND WILD ANIMALS, POULTRY, GAME, 
FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS, &c, &c. 

WITH 

MANY CURIOUS INCIDENTS AND ANECDOTES. 

BY 

THOMAS F. DE VOE, 

AUTHOR OF "THE MARKET-BOOK," ETC. 

" What we eat." 



NEW YORK: 
PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON. 

1867. 



•v" 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by 

Thomas F. De Voe, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. 



PREFACE, 



I have introduced myself to the public in the first volume of 
" The Market Book," by giving them a history of the Public 
Market-places in the city of New York from the earliest settle- 
ment, with numerous and curious incidents, more particularly 
relating to the local history of that city. It was also my inten- 
tion to have included in the second volume of that work much of 
the matter which I have placed in this. The dreadful Rebellion, 
however, commenced with the attack on Fort Sumter the day 
after I had arranged for the publishing of (" The Market Book") 
the first, volume, and I concluded to wait for the suppression of 
the Rebellion before entering upon the second. In the mean 
time my gathering notes had accumulated to such formidable 
dimensions that I was compelled to divide the useful from the 
historical ; the first of which is presented in this volume, called 
" The Market Assistant ;" and the latter will soon appear in the 
second volume of " The Market Book." 

The object of this volume is to present that which may be 
found practically useful as well as interesting. It aims at bring- 
ing together, in as small compass as possible and in a form easy 
of reference, those items of information which many would desire 
to possess when called upon to cater for the household. In order 
fully to carry out the practical views here indicated, this work is 
divided into several headings ; all of which, however, harmonize 
into one connecting form, " What we eat? 1 Domestic, or Tame An- 
imals ; Wild Animals, or Animal Game ; Poultry ; Wild Fowl 



b PBEFACE. 

and Birds, or Bird Game ; Fish ; Vegetables ; Pot and Medicinal 
Herbs ; Fruits and Nuts ; Dairy and Household Products, etc. 

The desire to present such a work, has lead me — pleasantly — 
to employ many of the leisure hours from my professional duties 
in placing together the thoughts and experience of thirty-five 
years' observation. 

What I deem the useful is gleaned from the daily wants, and 
the common expressions of the day — something to eat ! — " What 
shall we have to-day for dinner ? What is there in our Markets 
fit to eat ? What kinds of meats, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, 
and fruits are in season ? What names are given to the different 
joints of meats, and what dishes are they severally and generally 
used for ? We have had roasts, steaks, and chops ; and chops, 
steaks, and roasts, until we are tired of them ! Now, do say, 
what shall we have for dinner ?" These, with many other excla- 
mations, are daily discussed, and no one to answer. We, how- 
ever, claim for this Book a comprehensive answer to all questions 
of this nature. 

More fully to carry out the views I have entertained in relation 
to the various articles of food of our citizens, I have thought 
proper to illustrate with outlined diagram figures of such ani- 
mals usually portioned out and sold by the public-market butchers, 
with the various names, as illustrated by the accompanying en- 
graved cuts of the principal joints ; which are intended to assist 
in their recognition when called for, as well as to aid in render- 
ing perfect the dishes commonly made from them. 

I may here remark, that many of these engravings were 
sketched by me from nature, and, although some of them may 
not represent what I would wish from them, if so, it is proper 
here to state that the faulty drawing of such must not rest on the 
engraver (Stephen Weekes, Esq.), as his reputation in this beauti- 
ful art must not be impaired by my inexperience as the draughts- 
man. 



PBEFACE. Y 

After the Butchers' Meats will follow a brief description of 
other articles of food, with the periods of their season or when 
considered best ; how to judge and select them in the various 
public market-places. 

In obtaining a more thorough knowledge of many of these 
articles of food noticed, I have been greatly assisted by the 
experience of many of the intelligent dealers and others, who 
have on all occasions evinced a communicative and friendly feel- 
ing to my oft-repeated visits and numerous inquiries. To enume- 
rate or name all — with the many and various and useful works, 
and especially the newspaper press — from which I have derived 
much interesting matter, would now be impossible, as a long 
period has elapsed since the commencement of my gatherings took 
place ; and I can only say, that my indebtedness is hereby 
acknowledged, with a sincere return of my warmest thanks to 
each and all for their great assistance. 

Many of the various articles of food are often found in the 
private markets, or " meat-shops," but never the variety, quantity, 
or with the same- chance for cheapness, or choice, as are to be 
found in our established public markets. 

Having had practical experience in both public and private 
markets, I am free to say, that citizens and others can be best 
protected and accommodated in public markets — the larger the 
better — and more especially when the products are obtained from 
first hands. 

" The market-place" was originally designed, simply to accom- 
modate the producer and consumer ; a mart where all might 
meet at certain times — the one to sell and the other to purchase 
or trade. Eaton, in his review of New York in 1814, gives the 
reader some idea of " the market-place" at that period, which he 
presents to us in the following lines : 

" The place where no distinctions are, 
All sects and colors mingle there, 



PREFACE. 

Long folks and short, black folks and gray 

With common bawds, and folks that pray, 

Rich folks and poor, both old and young, 

And good, and bad, and weak, and strong, 

The wise and simple, red and white, 

With those that play and those that fight 

The high, the low, the proud the meek. 

And all one common object seek ; 

For lady, belle, and buck, and lass, 

Here mingle in one common mass, 

Contending all which shall be first, 

To buy the cheapest, best, or worst. 

In fact their object is to get 

Such things as they can 'ford to eat — 

Some beef, some pork, some lamb or veal, 

And those who cannot buy must steal — 

Nothing more clear, I'll tell you why, 

All kinds of folks must eat or die. 

Objects of honor or disgrace, 

Are all seen at the market-place. 

Do you a slothful debtor seek ? 

Go there, and you may with him speak ; 

Seek there a fool, a friend, a foe, 

For all together there will go. 

Are you a painter, and would trace, 

The features of one in distress ? 

Go there, for there you're sure to find, 

An object suited to your mind. 

And do you seek a beauteous form, 

A well- shaped leg or handsome arm? 

Go seek it there, for there are all, 

Of every person since the fall : 

The virgin, matron, husband, child, 

Upon this place have often smiled ; 

Whate'er you want, you'll find it there, 

There's every thing, and every where 

But those who are on killing bent, 

Alone shall feel my chastisement ; 

In Boston these, 'tis said have not, 

Or common sense or feelings got ; 

And therefore they are not allowed, 

The common jurors' seat to crowd j 

But butchers here, like other men, 

Have common sense end sense of pain ; 

These weigh the meat, and you must know, 






PREFACE. V 

The meat side of the scale is low, 

And wants your care to balance it, 

If you would have your proper weight, 

Or else two pounds of beef, you'll see, 

Will just two pounds odd ounces be 

The rich, who buy a stately piece, 

Will scarcely know their meats decrease ; 

But 'tis the poor, who little buy, 

That miss their meat, and wonder why. 

Tis thus with some — but not with all — 

For many, from the loaded stall, 

With balance even, weigh the meat, 

Too honest to defraud or cheat.*" 

Now, we find, " the market-place" assumes another aspect — a 
change which time and circumstances have created. The pro- 
ducer is often hundreds of miles in one direction, while the con- 
sumer may be as many hundred in another, from the mart at 
which the productions were sold and purchased. Through the 
course of the year, the products of the North, South, East, and 
West, are to be found in our large public market-places ; from 
which great quantities are disposed of, to be consumed in other 
cities, towns, or villages, or on the many ocean or river steamers 
or other vessels, as well as in foreign countries. 

A great trade has imperceptibly grown upon us (particularly 
in New York), which I have sometimes thought, would have 
been more profitable to both producer and consumer, if proper 
laws, and practical, honest heads, had been placed over these 
vast interests, which so much affect the general health and com- 
fort, as well as the pockets of our over-taxed citizens ; and I 
cannot avoid the conclusion, that if our public markets were 
properly conducted, they would be highly advantageous, not only 
to the city and citizens, but to all who have occasion to obtain 
supplies, as they facilitate the voluntary inspection, as well as 
the comparison of every article offered for sale in them, and they 
also concentrate the trade by which the people are protected 
from imposition. 



10 PEEFACE. 

This great metropolis should have her public markets as 
objects of our city's pride, by having proper and substantial 
buildings, kept orderly, cleanly, well-arranged and officered, when 
they could be visited by strangers in safety and comfort, as well 
as by all her citizens, who would find pleasure and exercise in 
the performance of a necessary and agreeable duty. 

Thomas F. De Yoe, 

Butcher, 
Jefferson Market, 

City of New York, 1864. 



WHAT WE EAT. 11 



WHAT WE EAT. 

The first natural demand of man is food to nourish his 
wasting system, and for this purpose he has been bounti- 
fully provided for with an extensive choice, furnished by the 
various productions of both land and water. Man in his 
natural state, like the wild beasts of the forest, consumes 
food naturally and spontaneously obtained ; but civilized 
man, luxuriously trained and educated, obtains his principal 
support from artificial food, or that which has been pro- 
duced by his skill and labor ; and thus we find that the wild 
and cultivated animals, as well as the natural and cultiva- 
ted plants, is the proper and sole food for cultivated man. 

" Man is a carnivorous production, 

And must have meals at least once a day • 
He cannot live, like woodcocks, upon suction, 
But, like the shark and tiger, must have prey." 

The various fruits, grain, roots, and herbs, with flesh, fish, 
and fowl, all contribute to the sustenance of man, or rather, 
to furnish the daily wants, and to supply the wear and tear 
of his body. The perfect conformation of man's organiza- 
tion is capable of converting into nourishment every pecu- 
liarity of food, and separating the nutritive portions of 
every variety from each production. 

Authors agree that animal food is found to be strongly 
nourishing, and, when extensively used, it is too heating and 
stimulating, and, withal, overworks the digestive organs, 
which, after a time, exhausts and debilitates the body ; 
while, on the other hand, a pure vegetable diet seems in- 
sufficient to secure to the human system all the strength 
and vigor of which it is capable, although thousands of in- 



12 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

dividuals live almost entirely on the latter, but it is found 
they are seldom so robust, so active, or so brave. Physi- 
ologists, therefore, are of opinion that a mixed diet of an- 
imal and vegetable food is best suited to the nature and con- 
stitution of man. In warm climates, however, meat is found 
less desirable than any other kind of food. 

"All animals, with but few exceptions, are used as food by 
various nations of men, although that which is selected as a 
delicacy by one country is refused as unfit and loathsome by 
another. The Englishman refuses to dine on Snails with 
an Italian, on Frogs with a Frenchman, on Horseflesh with 
the Tartars, or on the Crocodile, Toad, or Locust with the 
African. 

"A traveller, in the last century, remarked to certain 
Arabs that he wondered at their eating insects so disgusting 
as Locusts ; to which they replied, with some show of rea- 
son, that it savored of affectation in a person who could 
swallow an Oyster to be startled by any thing in the way 
of eating." 

" The Americans will not eat horses, asses, dogs, cats, rats, 
or mice, but they are all used as food, and some as great 
luxuries, in other countries." 

In Africa the natives eat Ants stewed in Palm Oil, and 
the large Termites, or White Ants, are roasted in iron pots 
and eaten by handfuls, as sugar-plums ; and as for Locusts, 
Dr. Phipson says they are far from dreading their inva- 
sions, but look upon a dense cloud of Locusts as we would 
look upon a miracle of Bread and Butter floating in the air. 
They smoke them, or salt them, or boil them, or stew them, 
or grind them down as Corn, and get fat on them. 

" Lo ! the poor Indian, who untutored feeds 
On Locusts, Beetles, Frogs, and Centipedes ! 
His taste keen hunger never taught to sigh 
For Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, or Pumpkin Pie ; 
But thinks, admitted to that equal feast, 
All things are good for man as well as beast." 

It is also found that Horseflesh is not an uncommon arti- 



WHAT WE EAT. 13 

cle of food, either in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, and other 
places, where it is publicly exposed for sale in their public 
markets. It is upon record that about the year 1810, in 
the town of Christiana, Norway, four hundred horses had 
been killed for the consumption of that town for a period 
of a little over two years. We also find it asserted by 
M. Duchatelet that a very large quantity is consumed in 
Paris. The Knackers (Horse-slayers) and their families, 
who live principally on it, have a remarkably robust and 
healthy appearance. Surgeon Larrey also states that the 
French armies, during many campaigns under Napoleon I., 
were greatly indebted to Horseflesh for the means of subsist- 
ence. A correspondent from Yienna to the " New York 
Times," 1855, gives a favorable account of its use in that 
city, as follows : " The consumption of Horseflesh by the 
poorest classes, which for the past two years has been more 
and more resorted to, tends to check any rapid rise in Beef 
and the common meats. While good roasts and bake- 
pieces cost fifteen kreutzers the pound — not even so high as 
in New York — Horseflesh is bought for five kreutzers. An 
acquaintance who has eaten beef-steak from this meat — would 
it do to call it horse-steak ? — assures me that it does not 
taste at all bad — that it is indeed a delicacy — and argues 
from the nature of the food of the two, that horseflesh is a 
much choicer diet than fried chicken. It may seem to show 
how well the poorer classes like it, to state that within the 
past few weeks, in Hamburg, if I remember rightly, the 
price of this article of food has risen to almost its former 
rate, owing to the increased demand." 

Mule-meat has also been spoken of as being excellent 
eating ; although its trial took place under peculiar circum- 
stances, yet it was compared with horseflesh and such beef 
as was in the possession of the besieged rebels while caged 
in Port Hudson. A Confederate oflicer who has, or is, pre- 
paring a detailed account of what took place inside of this 
fortification during its beleaguerment, says that when (29th 
of June, 1863) "the last quarter-ration of beef had been 



14 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

given out to the troops, on the 1st of July, at the request of 
many officers, a wounded mule was killed and cut up for 
experimental eating. All those who partook of it spoke 
highly of the dish : the flesh of mules being of a darker 
color than beef, of a finer grain, quite tender and juicy, and 
as having a flavor between that of beef and venison. There 
was an immediate demand for this kind of food, and the 
number of mules killed by the commissariat daily increased. 
Some horses were also slaughtered, and their flesh was 
found to be very good eating, but not equal to the mule. 
Eats, of which there were plenty about the deserted camps, 
were also caught by many officers and men, and were found 
to be quite a luxury — superior, in the opinion of those who 
ate them, to spring-chicken." 

The ancients appear to have been rather singular in their 
choice of diet, as Dick, in his " Diet and Regime," says — 
" They used neither buckwheat, nor French Beans, nor Spin- 
ach, nor Sage, Tapioca, Saless, Arrowroot, nor Potato or its 
varieties, nor even the common, but a sort of marsh-grown 
Bean, nor many of our fruits, as the Orange, Tamarinds, nor 
American Maize. On the other hand, they ate substances 
which we now neglect : the MaUoiv, the herb Ox Tongue, the 
sweet Acorn, the Lupin. They used greatly Radish, Lettuce, 
Sorrel ; they liked the flesh of wild Asses, of little Dogs, of 
the Dormouse, of the Fox, of the Bear. They ate the flesh 
of Parroquets, and other rare birds, and of Lizards. They 
were fond of a great many fish and shell-fish which we now 
hold in no esteem. They employed as seasoning Bue and 
Assafcetida." 

An amusing article on diet, written above one hundred 
years ago, is found in a London paper called " St. James' 
Chronicle," dated November 6, 1762, and thus reads : — 
" There is no affectation more ridiculous than the antipa- 
thies which many whimsical people entertain with respect 
to diet. One will swoon at a Breast of Veal ; another can't 
bear the sight of a Sucking-pig ; and another owes as great 
a grudge to a Shoulder of Mutton as Petruchio, in the farce. 



WHA1 WE EAT. 15 

How often does ifc happen in company that we are debarred 
of a necessary ingredient in a salad because somebody, for- 
sooth, cannot touch oil ! And what a rout is made, whisk- 
ing away the cheese off the table, without our being suffered 
to have a morsel of this grand digester, if any one should 
happen to declare his dislike to it ! 

" There are others of an equally fantastic disposition, 
who, as we may say, choose to quarrel with their bread and 
butter. These are eternally suspicious that their food is 
not sweet. They bring their plates up to their noses, or 
their noses down to their plates, at every thing that is put 
upon them. Their stomachs are so delicately nice that they 
descry a fault in all they eat. The fish is stale, the mutton is 
rank, or the suet in the pudding is musty. I have an aunt 
who almost starves herself on account of her squeamishness 
in this particular. At one time she is sure the sheep died of 
the rot ; at another the pork is measly ; and she would not 
touch a bit of beef all the time of the distemper among the 
horned cattle. Veal she detests, because, she says, it is 
well known the Butchers blow it up with their nasty breath ; 
besides, the Calves have brine given them to make their 
flesh white. She used to declare House-Lamb to be the only 
wholesome food, because the innocent creatures were fed 
with nothing but their mother's milk ; but she has lately 
taken disgust to this likewise, since she has been told that 
some rascally butchers keep large mastiff-bitches on pur- 
pose for their Lambs to suck. 

" I dined with her yesterday, when she made an apology 
for the Beef not being salt enough, saying that she was 
under a necessity of boiling it too soon, as she did not think 
it safe to buy any meat yet awhile, on account of the late 
inundations ; for she was apprehensive that the drowned 
carcasses of hogs, sheep, and other cattle would make their 
way up to the London shambles. I was surprised that a 
suspicion of this sort should have entered her head, but 
more surprised still to find it hinted at afterwards by the fol- 
lowing advertisement in the ' Public Advertiser' of Monday : 



16 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

" * The Master and Wardens of the Butchers' Company do 
hereby acquaint the public that they have not been able 
(notwithstanding the utmost care and assiduity has been 
used by them) to find that any of the hogs or sheep that 
were drowned in the late unhappy floods, have been exposed 
to sale within this city or the suburbs thereof. 

" ' %^* Any person that sends notice to the Company, at 
their hall in Pudding Lane, of any casualty or unwholesome 
flesh of any sort that is exposed for sale, so that the same 
may be seized, will receive the thanks of the Company, and 
be a Mend to the public in general, the Company being de- 
termined to prosecute all persons selling casualty or un- 
wholesome flesh.' 

" * I cannot help observing that it seems odd the butchers 
themselves should sound the alarm about casualty flesh, which 
many people otherwise might never have thought of. The 
fishmongers would never cry stinking fish, and the bakers 
would be unwilling to have it even supposed that any made 
use of alum in their bread. I remember, for a great while 
after the affair of Elizabeth Tofts, the Eabbit-woman, the 
owners and renters of warrens were all ruined, for persons 
would as soon eat a cat as a rabbit. Should the like dis- 
gust prevail against flesh, from the fear of its being casualty 
flesh, what would become of Smithfield and Leadenhall Mar- 
kets ? There is, indeed, some danger that people will con- 
ceive an antipathy against barrelled beef, pickled pork, and 
all kinds of soused meat, on this occasion ; and it is to be 
hoped that the contractors for victualling His Majesty's 
Navy will not buy up any of the drowned cattle, to turn the 
stomachs of our sailors. The unwholesomeness, however, 
of casualty flesh I have heard denied by a gentleman, who 
had been m Italy, and declared that he himself had eaten 
heartily (without any ill effects) of a hog that was casually 
barbecued, and an ox that was roasted whole in the erup- 
tions from Mount Vesuvius." 

The mode of living adopted by some, especially among 
the rich, who, by their late dinner-hours and sumptuous 



WHAT WE EAT. 

feasts, no doubt prepare themselves for early 
an old author says, "Some stop their breath 
and earpe ; some poison themselves with soups 2 
and others stifle nature with cheese-cakes and \ 
— Divers worthy citizens make custard their 
And who would think it ? even beef and puddi 
lie-spirited victuals and good protestants as the 
are frequently guilty of man-slaughter ; and ma 
squire, when he escapes drowning in a sea of ( 
up the springs of life with a rump of beef. 

" Harmless mutton itself does frequent miscL 
So that the butchers, as well as the 'pothece 
licensed poisoners of a commonwealth. It ] 
seem strange that the sacrifices of oxen should 
of men too, and that ignorant butchers should i 
the learned of Warwick-lane, and yet the facu 
it ; for though butchers are tolerably illiteratt 
yet, as their profession is the killing of brute 1 
do not see why the college should permit sue 
Brethren. Alas ! a butcher has but one instruc 
and that is his knife : and what is that in c 
Dr. Carlyon also tells us that " Mixtures, an 
wines are the ruin of half the stomachs in the 
see : You take, at a dinner-party, soup, a gl; 
wine-punch perhaps ; turbot and rich lobster i 
may be, an oyster pate, or a sweet-bread, to ai 
with while the host is cutting you a slice of t" 
haunch ; this, with jelly and French beans, is s 
with a couple of glasses of hock or sauterne a< 
wing of a partridge or the back of a leveret, s 
little red hermitage, succeeds ; then you at or 
and chill your heated stomach with a piece of 
which you preposterously proceed to warm 
glass of noyeau or some other liquor : if yoi 
posed to roguet with a spoonful of jelly in add 
sure to try a bit of stilton and a piquant sala< 
of port therewith. At dessert, port, sherry, 
2 



THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

ire. This is about the routine of the majority of 
'es. Such a dinner is, in fact, a hospitable at- . 
ur life." 

., we find, will not eat the flesh of any animal 

d by them without it has been killed and ex- 

>ne of their own persuasion, called a shoket (Jew 

ao is appointed by their synagogue, or some 

isiastical authority, as they retain the opinions 

n from " olden times/' concerning the killing 

the table. They also will not eat guinea fowls, 

other ducks, having fleshy crests, besides bears, 

irrels, etc. ; but such game as deer, partridges, 

rhen trapped, or otherwise caught alive, and 

hohet, their flesh is then accepted. 

icular manner of slaughtering a bullock is by 

and legs slung, and hoisted high enough to 

its fore-feet. The shoket, or "cutter," as he is 

.own among butchers, stands ready with his 

*d, keen knife, waiting to have the animal's 

upwards, which is done by those who dress the 

with one hand, the left, pinches up the skin 

:, and, with the knife in the other hand, lays 

* to the point, on the throat. He then, with a 

thrust forward, and a sudden draw back, with- 

e knife, divides the flesh and the jugular veins. 

)ubt, the best mode of more fully clearing the 

lood : the Jews believing that the blood is the 

Mosaic law, which forbids the destruction of 

rocess of skinning has commenced, the shoket 
domen, and with his hand examines, by feel- 
s, liver, etc. ; and, if found in a sound and 
ition, he places seals, stamped with Hebrew 
ily on the fore-quarters,, which particularly 
iy of the month when slaughtered; and the 
is then termed cosher, or good Jew or Hebrew 
or their use. Twenty years ago, these seals, 



WHAT WE EAT. 19 

which were then used, were made of lead, but, since that 
period, they have used thick paper and wax. 

If, however, the animal is found defective, either with 
lungs grown fast to the side, liver diseased, or any other 
abnormal or^ unhealthy indications of disease (which is 
seldom the case with a thriving fat young animal), the 
shoket pronounces it trifa, or unfit to be used by them ; 
then it is not sealed, but resold to those whose religious 
scruples may be no bar to its use. 

The gut-fat of the cosher animal is also sealed, and used 
in the place of suet (which is never used by the strict Jews) 
for all cooking purposes. 

The hind-quarters of the animals thus slaughtered are not 
sealed, and therefore not eaten in this country by the strict 
Jews, although their laws allow of their being eaten when 
operated upon by the professional porcher ; but as there are 
none known or recognized by them in the United States, 
this choice part is left without seals. The operation of the 
porcher is in the difficult performance of extracting the 
blood, fat, veins, and sinews, numbering above fifty, recog- 
nized by them in the hind-quarters; and I am told they 
count one hundred and eleven in the whole body, but those 
from the fore-quarter are more easily removed. 

They point to the cause of their refusal to eat the flesh 
from the hind-quarters (and, in fact, to all their different 
laws, customs, and belief), to the Old Testament, more par- 
ticularly, on this point, to Genesis xxxii. 32 : " Therefore 
the children of Israel eat not of the sinew which shrank, 
which is upon the hollow of the thigh, unto this day, be- 
cause he touched the hollow of Jacob's thigh in the sinew 
that shrank." 

This shoket is paid by the society in which he worships, 
an annual salary, and, in addition, a perquisite from the 
owners of the animals which he slaughters. 

The edible productions of the present day, considered fit 
for human food, are very numerous, some of which are the 
greatest delicacies, while others of them the simplest food, 



20 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

with prices to correspond with their scarcity, rarity, or 
plentifulness. Many, of course, are unseasonable and un- 
natural to this climate; but by artificial means, and the 
swift steam-engine, they have become and are looked for as 
" things in season." In fact, the public market-place in the 
various cities under consideration, furnishes us with a " Bill 
of Fare" which includes almost every article known ; among 
which we have from the North, the moose and bear meat, 
salmon, mascalonge, white-fish, pike, and drawn poultry ; 
the sea-shore — East — furnishes us with shore-birds, fowl, 
sea-fish, oysters, and lobsters ; from the South comes the 
early and fine Bermuda potatoes, onions, peas, oranges, 
bananas, and early shad, with the excellent wild duck from 
the Potomac ; while the West pours in her wild-fowl, veni- 
son, poultry, butter, all of which comes by the millions of 
pounds weight, through the course of the year. 

In order to arrange these various productions, and other 
subjects treated of, I have placed them under the following 
different heads, viz. : Going to Market ; Domestic or Tame 
Animals; Beef; Veal; Mutton; Lamb; Pigs, Hogs, and 
Pork ; Goats' Flesh ; The Parts we use from Domestic Ani- 
mals ; Wild Animals, called Game ; Poultry ; Wild-Fowl and 
Birds called Game ; Fish ; Fish, Large and Abundant ; Fish, 
Small and Abundant ; Fish, Large and Scarce ; Fish, Small 
and Scarce ; Shell-Fish ; Vegetables ; Pot Herbs, Medicinal, 
and other Plants; Fruit; Nuts; Dairy and Household Pro- 
ducts ; Pot Plants, Roots, and Bouquets ; Economy in the use 
of Meals ; Hung Meats ; Bleeding Animals ; and Cooks and 
Cookery. 

The first in the above arrangement appears somewhat im- 
portant, as well as necessary, to assist the young house- 
keeper in purchasing the market supplies wanted, and per- 
haps a few hints on the subject will be acceptable to her or 
any others interested. They will appear under the head — 



GOING- TO MARKET. 21 



GOING TO MAEKET. 

Some fifty years ago it was the common custom for the 
thrifty " old New Yorker," when going to market, to start 
with the break of day, and carry along with him the large 
" market-basket," then considered a very necessary appen- 
dage for this occasion. His early visit gave him the desired 
opportunity to select the cuts of meat wanted from the best 
animals ; to meet the farmer's choice productions, either poul- 
try, vegetables, or fruit, and catch the lively, jumping fish, 
which, ten minutes before, were swimming in the fish-cars. 

Soon after followed the " good housewife," who would not 
trust anybody but herself to select a fine young turkey, or a 
pair of chickens or ducks, which she kept hold of until the 
bargain allowed her to place the coveted articles in her ca- 
pacious basket, that was being carried by a stout servant, 
who also carried a bright tin, covered kettle, ready to re- 
ceive several nice rolls of butter, so cleanly and neatly cov- 
ered with white linen cloths. 

The modern "marketer" will still occasionally observe 
some "relics of the past," who cling to the old custom 
taught them in their youth, perhaps, by an honored sire, 
who was not too proud to carry home a well-filled market- 
basket, containing his morning purchase, which his purse or 
taste prompted him to select. These old-fashioned ideas, 
alas ! are all lived down, and we reluctantly turn from them, 
as we would from an interesting but worn-out book to pe- 
ruse the pages of modern composition. 

We now find many heads of families who never visit the 
public markets, who are either supplied through the butcher 
or other dealers in our markets, or by their stewards or 
other servants, or by some that may be termed go-between- 
speculators, who take orders for marketing, groceries, etc., on 
their own hook ; and, of course, they purchase the various ar- 
ticles of those who will give them the largest percentages. 
I am sorry, however, to be compelled to state that there are 



22 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

but few of jthis species of help, or market assistants, who can 
lay claim to the title of trustworthy. 

It is, therefore, as necessary for our health as it is to our 
interest to obtain the knowledge of what we desire to pur- 
chase, that the articles shall be what they are represented 
to be, and that they are furnished at the regular market 
price. 

To market well, then, requires much experience, although 
many rules might be introduced, but they would be seldom 
successfully followed. Practice gives the looks, smell, feel- 
ing, and many signs that are almost indescribable, and 
which are formed from close observation. 

Many dealers know too well how to disguise an inferior 
article, so as to deceive those who have but little knowledge 
of marketing ; although a lower price may be demanded, 
such provisions are dear from the fact of their inferior qual- 
ity, and when prepared are neither relished nor half con- 
sumed — perchance they are wholly wasted. 

Another class of dealers, while they furnish good articles, 
they do not fail to obtain exorbitant prices, of such a char- 
acter as to come under the name of extortion. To succeed 
in such extortions, different modes of misrepresentation are 
adopted, which, in our plain vernacular, might be termed 
absolute lying — " business lying," white or black lying, or 
any other lying the reader may choose to designate the 
system. 

Their articles are represented as being — " The very best 
that were ever produced !" — " The finest and largest you 
ever saw!"—" Could not be better!"—" Eirst-rate !"— " Excel- 
lent !" — " Elegant !"— " Beautiful !"— " Splendid !"— " Can't 
be beat !" — " As cheap as dirt !" and " Can't be got else- 
where !" 

One day I heard a military hero say to a person who was 
extolling a good common goose, and enlarging on the nu- 
merous splendid accessories surrounding it — "Why, your 
geese are all sivans — I do not want any of them. I merely 
want a good young goose, about that size." 



GOING TO MAEKET. 23 

The numerous falsehoods sometimes told, are expressed 
with such appearance of innocence, that many really feel 
that what they say must be " the truth, the whole truth, and 
nothing but the truth," and so accede to their extortionate 
demands. This class of dealers effect more business and 
succeed better than the honest, conscientious dealer, who, 
when asked, " Is this article the best I can get ?" will answer, 
" I should not like to say it is, but I think it is as good." 
Such an answer is not always a satisfactory one to the ques- 
tioner, as he would require one of certainty, or — " It is the 
very best that. comes to the markets, and you cannot get it 
elsewhere so good, nor so cheap." This appears to be a 
great fault with many purchasers, that to induce them to 
buy the dealers must bespatter their articles with a dozen 
falsehoods, and sometimes fifteen or twenty per cent, above 
the market price, before the purchasers are fully satisfied 
with their bargains. 

This wretched system or custom, we find, generally per- 
vades everywhere, and in every business, where goods and 
other property are exposed to sale ; both men and women, 
merchants and mechanics, tradesmen and salesmen, in fact 
all kinds, are afflicted with this prevailing tongue-disease of 
exaggeration. 

This dishonest custom gives the honest salesman or pur- 
veyor but little satisfaction while doing business, as they 
are often subjected to many petty annoyances, which usually 
come from those whose education should teach them better. 
There are others who are deficient of this desideratum, who 
claim from the lack of educated honesty some charity and 
excuse for their acts. We occasionally find among pur- 
chasers some who are known as " shoppers" and " runners," 
who make no difference where they trade, so long as it shall 
be the best article at a low price ; and to make a sale to 
such the market-price must generally be reduced ; and when 
that is done, suspicion steps into the " shopper's" mind, who 
examines and re-examines, with question after question, 
whether " perfectly good, tender, and sweet ;" and upon 



24 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

being answered in the affirmative, the " shopper" often turns 
from the dealer with a supercilious gesticulation, as if they 
placed no confidence in the recommendation. We recur to 
an instance where a lady had several times treated a butcher 
to this negative treatment to his recommended meat, when 
she was, by him, impressed with this well-merited retort : 
" My previous answers, in relation to the quality of meat 
which you several times before selected, have not received 
such attention as was expected from you ; hereafter you 
will be obliged to judge for yourself." She was not a pur- 
chaser on that occasion, but afterwards she gave no further 
trouble in this respect. 

There are other dealers, again, who use much of what 
may be termed outside deceit— that is, by placing some 
attractive mark or emblem, in the way of flags, ribbons, 
signs, etc., to represent the articles so dressed and deco- 
rated as being either premium or prize or superior, or some 
extraordinary quality about them, from the good or general 
average of what they should represent ; and this is done for 
the purpose of procuring a higher price for an inferior 
article. In fact, I have heard it said : " I put ribbons and 
flags on my meat to make it sell for a good price, as I 
am bound to make money some way or another." This 
method this class adopt as a " legitimate manner of doing 
business." 

The safest plan for the inexperienced is to select respect- 
able dealers, on whom they can rely. They may charge 
higher prices for that which they furnish ; in the end, how- 
ever, more satisfaction is afforded, by less risk, and more 
saving and relish — in fact, cheaper in every way, because all 
good articles are with profit used — that, while the best 
articles may cost more money in the purchase thereof, they 
will be found to be the most economical in the end. 

On the other view, unprincipled dealers are always ready 
for what they term chances, either by giving short weight, 
short measure, or short change ; and, if they are detected, 
" Why, it's a mistake !" or, if he (or she) think that bluster- 



GOING TO MAKKET. 25 

ing, or loud and harsh words, will frighten the wronged pur- 
chaser, this mode of tactics is brought to bear. 

Many respectable purchasers, not having the time to go 
to the public markets, will sometimes purchase of the 
" cheap shops," or street-pedlers, many of whom are still 
worse than those we haye already spoken of, especially 
street-pedlers, who cannot be found when their fraud or 
deceit is too late discovered. 

A few years ago, one of the city sealers of weights and 
measures, in one of the districts of our (New York) city, 
collected fifty-four measures, from grocers and wagon- 
pedlers, that fell short of the standard. A half-bushel fell 
short three and a half quarts ; twenty-one half -peck meas- 
ures fell short about one quart each ; fifteen two-quart 
measures were short six quarts in the aggregate ; and six- 
teen one-quart measures were short, in the aggregate, six 
quarts. 

An old law, as well as a long-standing custom, makes it 
incumbent upon the seller that all articles subject to be 
sold by the measure — such as apples, peaches, potatoes, 
and others of a round, oval, or flat conformation — shall be 
heaped up above the even line of the measures, to make up 
for the interspaces between the irregularities of such articles 
of food, etc. 

The fish, fruit, vegetables, etc., which are usually peddled 
about the streets in carts and wagons, are seldom found so 
good as those offered for sale in the public markets, they 
being either the refuse of the markets, unfit to be offered 
by the respectable dealer, or it happens to be a glut, or 
very large quantities offered ; and, even then, their selec- 
tions are generally of those which sell at the lowest price ; 
then, in their sales through the streets, their false-bot- 
tomed measures, short weights, or their stale or unfit 
articles, are detected by examination ; they are off, and 
not to be found, until the frauds and their persons are 
forgotten. 

When the purchaser desires to be served through orders 



26 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

by the butcher, or others, it is best that they should have 
such latitude or choice of sending the purchaser that which 
they may have in the best condition for immediate use. If 
it be for a roast, it should be either a rib, sirloin, or other 
piece of beef; or leg, loin, saddle, or shoulder of mutton; 
or fore or hind quarter of lamb ; or fillet, loin, shoulder, or 
breast of veal ; or turkey, capons, chickens, venison, par- 
tridges, or grouse, etc. If for a boil, a leg of mutton, rump 
or round, plate, navel, or brisket of corned beef ; and the 
same, in fact, with all the various dishes. 

Without particular joints, or other articles, are ordered 
for an arranged or " dinner-party," it is then best, as well as 
proper, to give notice a day or two before, that the butcher, 
or other, may prepare a particular, prime, or choice article, 
such as may not only please the purchaser, but will give 
the butcher, or other dealer, some satisfaction — as it is 
gratifying to the conscientious dealer to hear that his joints 
or other articles were praised, as it is to those who pay for 
that which is acceptable and pleasing to them. 



DOMESTIC OR TAME ANIMALS. 

The domestic or tame animals which are usually pre- 
pared by the butchers into meat, produce one of the chief 
articles of food in our daily supplies ; and the first among 
these animals stands the ox, one of the richest gifts to man, 
being useful to the farmer as a faithful worker, a great 
assistant in enriching his land, and then as a mill to grind 
his surplus fodder into beef, while every thing about him, 
from his hoofs to his horns, is profitable for some purpose 
or other. 

Nearly all of these animals, while living, are known by 
the names given to them by our Anglo-Saxon fathers ; but, 
when slaughtered and dressed, their flesh assumes another 
name, as the ox, with its varieties — the bullock, steer, cow, 
heifer, stag, and bull — are changed to beef; sheep, consist- 



DOMESTIC OB TAME ANIMALS. 27 

ing of the wether, ewe, stag, buck or ram, are changed to 
mutton; calf, to that of veal; hog, i. e., pig, shoat, barrow, 
sow, stag, hog, and boar, to that of pork. The same 
changes will also apply to some species ol wild animals. 

Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, and pork, are usually found 
throughout the year, in its various seasonable preparations, 
in all the public markets, and they may be reasonably con- 
sidered " always in season ;" but there are certain months 
in the year when each are found in greater perfection than 
at other periods of the year, although, when a sound, 
healthy animal has been properly fed and prepared, the 
flesh will be found to be excellent eating in any part of the 
yeai\ The additional advantage of a cool atmosphere (not 
freezing the flesh), permitting it to hang for several days, 
or even weeks, such flesh as beef, mutton, lamb, venison, 
etc., will render them not only tender, but also add much to 
the richness of their flavor. I may here also add, that the 
flesh of all animals, poultry, and game (drawn), is much 
better in the warm weather, when it can be placed in a 
cool cellar ; a deep well (tied in a linen bag, and hung by a 
rope near the water), a refrigerator, or an ice-house, for a 
day or two, will render the flesh cool and firm enough for 
good eating. 

When it is necessary to send or carry any kind of fresh 
provisions great distances — such as butcher-meat, poultry, 
game, or fish — either article should first be kept in a re- 
frigerator, or other cold place, until thoroughly cooled, then 
wrapped in a coarse linen cloth, around which should be 
placed cabbage-leaves (or other green leaves), and the whole 
again wrapped and tied up in a coarse cloth, and placed in 
a basket, when the articles may be carried from six to ten 
hours without the danger of becoming sour or tainted. 
Poultry, game, or fish should be drawn, and a piece of 
charcoal, wrapped in a thin linen rag, be. inserted into the 
drawn parts ; as the intestines, when left in, are apt to give 
the flesh a disagreeable flavor. 

Beef and mutton are usually found best from November 



28 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

to May, from the fact that those animals producing this 
flesh are then generally " grain or stall fed," although those 
fed, or which are fattened, on roots, pumpkins, or grass, 
produce good, sweet, and tender meats ; but it has not the 
weight, substance, or heart that is found in "stall-fed" 
meat. From a letter written to B. P. Johnson, Esq., Secre- 
tary of the New York State Agricultural Society, found in 
their " Transactions" (1852, vol. xii., p. 282), the following 
extract refers to this subject : " You are aware, no doubt, 
that the greatest quantity of ' barrelled beef ' sent to foreign 
markets is packed in the West. Great portions are of 
young cattle, fattened on grass, principally of a quick and 
large growth, and are what we New York butchers call 
1 grass-fed beef.' " The beef when fresh will eat soft, ten- 
der, juicy, and sweet, but will not have the delicious flavor, 
solidity, firmness, weight, or the heart or nourishment that 
the stall-fed (with grain) beef has. It appears to me, as 
soon as the salt touches "grass-fed beef" it draws back, 
shrinks into a smaller compass, and changes to a dark 
color, as if there was not firmness or solidity to resist the 
action of the salt ; and when boiled, especially if salted a 
long time, will shrink very much, leaving it tasteless, juice- 
less, without heart or substance, and, when cut, of a dark 
color. "Stall-fed beef," on the contrary, is like corn-fed 
pork, which has the appearance (when properly cured) 
of being firmer, brighter, plumper, or has a swelled look, as 
if the well-mixed fat protected the lean parts of the flesh. 
We seldom hear of farmers, or others, salting down " grass 
or milk fed pork." They pen them up, and feed as much 
corn, generally, as the animal will take, for sometimes 
months before slaughtering ; and when they are salted — I 
quote an old saying — " Put one pound of corn-fed pork in 
the pot, it comes out two," which will apply to " stall-fed 
beef." 

Animals in sound health, which have been fairly fed, will 
have a layer of fat between the skin and the flesh or 
muscles. This may be termed the outside fat or back fat. 



DOMESTIC OK TAME ANIMALS. 29 

The fat will also be mixed in and through the muscles them- 
selves, according to the quantity and quality of the feeding. 
When highly fed the flesh increases, the back fat thickens, 
the muscles become marbled with small particles of fat 
throughout the body, and a large collection of fat around 
the kidneys, which butchers call suet, to designate it from 
the common meat or flesh fat. 

I may here observe, that it is artificial or over-feeding 
that produces the prize, choice, and extra-large fine cattle, 
sheep, etc., sometimes exhibited at our fairs and cattle- 
markets. 



BEEF. 

In relation to the best cattle for beef, the question may 
properly be asked, Which among the varieties of neat-cattle 
will generally produce the best or choicest eating beef? 

This point, I am well aware, many of our most respect- 
able butchers, epicures, and others, will honestly differ in. I, 
however, shall present the experience which has brought 
me in contact with all sorts and sizes, shades and colors, 
and not only by hundreds, but by thousands, from the poor- 
est, toughest " old bull," used for jerked-beef, to feed the 
slaves of the West Indies, to that of the choicest — the win- 
ners of many first-prizes — which have been so elaborately 
prepared, both to tickle the palates of the many epicures 
and lovers of good beef, and also to gain the admiration of 
thousands. Notwithstanding this, my observations may not 
be correct ; they, however, are my convictions. I therefore 
proceed to place them in the order as they appear, as fol- 
lows : 

First — Spayed Heifer, from four to seven years old. 

Second — Steer or bullock (never worked), from four to six 
years old. 

Third — Free Martin (or barren heifer), not over eight 
years old. 



30 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

. Fourth — Ox, from five to eight years old. 

Fifth— Heifer, " three to four 

Sixth— Cow, " " to eight 

Sevenths-Stag, " " to " 

Fighth— Bull, " two to six " 

In the above arrangement I have placed the Spayed 
Heifer first — from four to seven years old — as generally af- 
fording the best and choicest beef. I mean, of course, with 
the same breed, care, and partaking of the same feeding. 
My reasons for this are : that she is more docile and quiet, 
a gentler disposition, not apt to roam or run so much as the 
common heifer or steer, and therefore she will naturally 
flesh and thrive faster, while her nerves, muscles, or flesh 
and fat, are rendered more tender from her general quietude. 
I do not pretend to assert that this quiet manner of growing 
beef will produce that which shall be the most nutritious 
and wholesome, because this question must be left to scien- 
tific research ; my wish here is to show that which shall 
prove the most profitable, tender, and well-tasted beef. 

The usual appearance of the above-described Spayed 
Heifer, or fine steer, beef, when first cut with a knife, or af- 
terwards, when it has laid together against or on marble, a 
dish, etc., it will be found to be quite a dark red color ; but 
the action of the air, on being exposed to it, in five minutes 
after will change its color to a clear cherry red. 

This beef will also have a juicy or sappy appearance, with 
a fine smooth grain to the touch, and in cold weather (or if 
it has been thoroughly cooled by the aid of ice) it should 
present a well-mixed or marbled appearance. The fat, both 
outside and through the muscles, presents a clear, straw- 
colored appearance, and that on the outside should entirely 
cover the back of the loin and ribs, in some parts not less 
than half an inch. The kidney-fat, or suet, should be so 
large, or so well filled up under or inside the loin, especially 
the thin end, that the whole sirloin (when cut up), suet, or 
kidney-fat, down, will lay nearly on a level ; or, in other 
words, the thin end should appear nearly as thick as the 



BEEF. 31 



* 



thick or rump end when laid on a bench or block to be 
cut up. 

The suet should be of a brighter shade than the meat or 
muscle fat, dry and hard, break or crumble easily, and at 
the same time show but little fibre through it. When greasy 
or oily, or tough and full of tough fibre, small in quantity, 
is a certain indication that the animal has been improperly 
fed, overdriven, or brought from a great distance, and there- 
fore the quality of the beef is deteriorated by rendering it 
more tough, dry, and tasteless. 

Ox and cow beef, when in good condition, will show their 
flesh and fat of a darker color ; that of the ox, more partic- 
ularly, will have an open and a coarser grain, as well as 
hard, tough cartilages, sinews, ligaments, and muscle, less 
flesh according to the quantity of bone, and if the animal 
has been always kept in a good fat condition, the flesh will 
not be, or eat so tender nor so juicy or fine-flavored as one 
(not too old) which has been worked down in flesh, then 
turned into fine pasture with a " summer's run," taken up 
and stall-fed for two, three or four months, when all the 
newly made, or growth of flesh, will be a much more tender, 
a rich cutting, and also well-flavored beef, than the preced- 
ing ; but still the old nerves and muscle is not replaced, but 
left behind, and show themselves, more particularly in the 
pieces which are called plate, navel, and brisket pieces. If, 
however, the animals (old or young) are poor, then when 
slaughtered their flesh will show little or no fat on the back 
and through the muscles, and will also be of a darker color, 
quite dry looking, very little kidney-fat or suet, and the kid- 
ney itself not well covered ; and this kind of beef will be 
usually quite hard, dry, and not well-flavored eating. 

Stag-beef is usually found more fleshy than the ox or 
steer : of a dusky red, close-grained ; and unless the animal 
has been well fed the flesh will be quite tough and somewhat 
strongly flavored. If, however, the stag has been al- 
tered when quite young, it will much improve the quality 



32 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

of the flesh. Their horns are generally thicker and shortei 
than those of the steer or ox. 

Bull-beef is the poorest eating of all beef, especially an 
old, poor, worn-out bull. They are always heavy- fleshed, 
especially in the neck and buttock. The color of the flesh 
is sometimes almost black, usually tough, with a strong 
rank scent or flavor, especially when it is fresh killed ; al- 
though some months in the year a fine, fat young bull will 
keep hunger off, but will never be choice eating. 

All animals should be killed when they are in the coolest 
state, or when respiration is the least active. Their flesh 
then will keep much longer fresh, and be more beautiful, 
sweet, and healthful ; but when killed in a heated condition, 
or immediately after a hard drive, the flesh will take longer 
to cool through, spoil sooner, and the flesh and fat will have 
a feverish, dark look (caused from its being full of blood), 
and of course it will not be so inviting or considered so 
healthy. 

The animal for beef, after having been killed and dressed, 
is called a carcass of beef; the one-half (a hind and fore 
quarter), a side of beef; and the separate quarters, a hind- 
quarter of beef and a fore-quarter of beef The same terms 
will also apply to mutton, lamb, veal, pork, or, in fact, to 
almost all animals. 

The whole carcass, before being " split down," or divided 
through the back, has been occasionally roasted whole, 
here, as well as many other places, usually to celebrate 
some great event. I have witnessed several public occa- 
sions in this city when the roasting of an ox was one of the 
great features, which, of course, took place on some public 
ground, and, five times out of six, part of the carcass would 
be invariably spoiled or tainted, as it appeared almost im- 
possible to apply the heat so as to roast the inside of the 
thick parts ; and the consequence was, that it would be 
about half-roasted — some portions burnt, and the greater 
part heated just enough to make it turn sour or spoiled, 
and, of course, unfit to be eaten. No doubt, large iron spits 



BEEF. 33 

or skewers could be introduced or forced through the thick 
parts, which, when properly heated, would produce the 
desired object. 

The first account of an " Ox-Boasting," which has come 
under my notice, would now seem a very curious and ex- 
pensive affair, as it happened in the latter part of the year 
1727, on the " King's Birthday," in the then fashionable 
city of Bath, England. This account is found in the New 
York Gazette (January 29, 1728), which ushers the day in as 
follows : 

" At four o'clock in the Morning, the Bells struck out ; a 
Bonfire was lighted, and a whole Ox set a roasting, with a 
Quantity of Liquor, and Huzzas to his Majesty's Health. 
At 6 the Drums beat the young Gentleman Volunteers to 
arms ; by 8, an Hundred and Sixty assembled themselves 
together at the Colonel's House ; by 10, they were ready to 
march, but first every Man drank a Glass of Brandy to his 
Majesty's Health. The Officers were extremely rich in 
their Apparel — Velvet, Embroidery, Gold and Silver Laces ; 
the Men with fine Caps, Cockades, Holland Shirts, Silver 
and Gold Bibbons, Shoulder-knots, fine Scarlet Cloth 
Breeches, richly laced white Stockings, red Tops to their 
Shoes; the Slings to their Pieces had this Motto: 'God 
save King George the Second.' By 12, they marched through 
the best part of the town, with two Sword-Bearers, a sett 
of Morris-Dancers, and Martial Musick before them ; then 
came to the Market-place, where they drew up in Order for 
Fire. Wine was brought, and every Officer charged his 
Glass; the King, Queen, and Boyal Family went round 
distinct, with a Volley at each Health; the Glasses were 
thrown over their Heads ; and in other parts of the town 
they did the same. Then Captain Goulding repeated this 
Verse, extempore: 

' In spite of Legions of Infernal Devils below, 

To ye Powers above, supream Divine. 
Let George in the Center our Standard be, 
And bis Queen the great Caroline 
3 



34 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

" One Colonel Edward Collins, that keeps the White-Hart 
Inn, and Captain Thomas Goulding, Jeweller in the Walks, 
Captain James Warriner, Boohselhr in the Walks, Lieu- 
tenant Collins, Woolen-Draper in the Churchyard, Lieu- 
tenant Taylor, Sivord-Cutter in the Churchyard, and three 
more young Gentlemen of the Town-Officers, which makes 
8 in Number, that gave the Ox and all the charges thereto. 
They drew to the Beef when roasting, with Handfuls of 
Silver, each Officer, and obliged the Cook to stuff it into 
the Shoulders and Neck ; and Captain Goulding, Jeiveller, 
stuffed above an Hundred true stones into the Buttocks of 
the Ox, several Diamonds, Kubies, Saphires, Emeralds, 
Garnets, Amethists, and Topasses. At two, the Ox was 
ready, brought to the Table, put into a Dish 12 Foot long 
and 6 wide, made on purpose. They dined in the Public 
Market-House; but the stuffing made the Mob so furious 
that they flung themselves over the Heads of the Officers, 
into the Dish, and stood over their Shoes in Gravy ; and 
one was stuffed into the Belly of the Ox, and almost stifled 
with Heat and Fat. The Grease flew about to that Degree 
which made the Officers quit the Table, or all their Cloaths 
must have been Spoiled. They stopt and looked on their 
Proceedings till three ; then they all Marched to the Col- 
onels, and staid till four. They went out again on their 
Procession. At five, the candles begun to light ; at 6, the 
town was illuminated. They went into the Colonel's Quar- 
ters, near Seven, with Huzzas — 'King George for ever! 9 — 
where there was great Quantities of Wine and Beer drank 
to his Majesty's Health, and all his loving Subjects in his 
extended Dominions. At Eleven, the Drums beat ' Go to 
bed, Torn!' and all departed in Peace after Pleasure." 

The following figure represents the form of a Spayed 
Heifer, which is found marked with lines, numbers, and 
letters, showing where the several joints or parts of the 
animal for beef are taken from, and how to cut the quarters 
up in the common manner — as cut in the city of New York. 
Those marked with the letter S are commonly used for 



BEEF. 



35 



steaks of the best, middling, and poorest kinds. The num- 
bers on the top of the back denote the number of ribs in 
each " roasting-piece ;" while those numerically numbered 




designate the common name of each part, as used in the 
cities of New York and Brooklyn, followed by those of 
Boston and Philadelphia — the two latter, however, as near 
as can be given, from the marked joints in the foregoing 
figure. 



36 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



New York and Brooklyn. 


Boston. 


Philadelphia. 


1 S 


Hip sirloin or thick 


Part of the rump or 


Pinbone sirloin. 




sirloin. 


hook bone. 




2. 


Second-cut ribs or 
middle ribs. 


Second prime-ribs. 


Middle-rib cut. 


3. S. 


Small end sirloin. 


Sirloin. 


Sirloin. 


4. 


First-cut rib or first 


Fore-rib or first prime- 


First-rib cut. 




rib-piece. 


rib. 




5. 


Third-cut ribs or 
thick ribs. 


Third prime-rib. 


Third-rib cut. 


6. 


First -cut chuck 
ribs. 


First chuck-rib. 


Best chuck-rib 


7. S. 


Second - cut chuck 

rib. 
Cross rib. 


Second chuck-rib. 


Chuck-rib cut. 


8. S. 


Leg or shoulder-of- 


Boler-piece. 






mutton piece. 




9. S. 


Third-cut chuck rib 
or chuck-piece. 


Chuck-piece. 


Chuck-piece. 


10. S. 


Rump of beef. 


A itch or edgebone 
(part of). 


Tail end rump. 


11. 


Socket or face 

rump. 
First-cut round. 


Rump (part of). 


Rump-piece (part of). 


12. 


Round. 


Round. 


13. 


Second-cut round. 


Leg-ran. 


Round (part of). 


14. 


Top of sirloin. 


Thick flank. 


Cut with Sirloin Steaks 


15. S. 


First-cut neck or 
neck-piece. 


Neck-piece. 


Neck-cut 


16. S. 


Second-cut neck or 
neck-piece. 


« 


1 


17. 


Plate-piece. 


Rattle-Ran or Runner 


Plate-piece. 


18. 


Navel-piece. 


piece. 
Navel end of brisket. 


Thin end of brisket. 


19. 


Brisket-piece. 


Butt end of brisket. 


Thick end of brisket. 


20. 


Shoulder clod. 


Clod (part of). 


Clod (part of). 


81- 


Flank-piece. 


Thin flank. 


Flank. 


22. 


Third cut neck or 
neck-piece. 


Neck-piece. 


Neck. 


23. 


Leg of beef or leg. 


Shank. 


Leg. 


24. 


Shin of beef or shin. 


Shin. 


Shank. 



In presenting the above names, as it were, belonging to 
each city, I was somewhat puzzled to procure, from numer- 
ous inquiries, those which appeared to be the most common 
ones ; although there were some which all appeared to agree 
upon, then again, no two were alike ; some had been always 
used to one name, while others had another, and if I had 
given all it would have been quite difficult for the buyer, or 
even the seller to have become reconciled to the large num- 
ber, so I concluded to adopt those which appeared to have 



BEEF. 37 

the most intelligent friends. I also found that many foreign 
butchers had not only brought their countries' customs of 
cutting up meats, but also their names of the joints ; and 
then, again, there were others in the same markets who 
have different ways of cutting, and they also have adopted 
names which appeared to have been known only to them- 
selves. I have, however, a hope that the following wood- 
cuts may assist the eye to distinguish the most prominent 
of the above-named joints, and also to know how to use 
them, or, rather, what dishes they are severally and gener- 
ally used for ; and, therefore, we will proceed to cut up, first, 
the different quarters of beef. 

The hind-quarters are usually considered the choice 
quarters, as from them-are cut or taken the large and famous 
" Baron of Beef," which the English hold in the highest es- 
timation as the crowning dish for the Christmas dinner. 
This joint is seldom prepared in this country, but it is cut 
much like a saddle of mutton ; that is, by leaving the two sir- 
loins together ; when being dressed, the hind-quarters of the 
animal are not separated, but cut so as to saddle or baron- 
ize them, by taking off the buttocks, rumps, sockets, tops of 
sirloins, and a part of the suet, which leaves almost a square- 
looking piece, first known in England as the baron of beef ; 
and this enormous piece is roasted whole. 

The principal dish, from time immemorial, for the sover- 
eigns of England at their Christmas dinner is the " Koyal 
Baron of Beef." In an English print I read that " it was 
this year (1854) cut from a fine Highland ox, fed by Prince 
Albert, and weighed eight hundred and forty pounds. It 
was put down before an enormous fire on Saturday after- 
noon, and for fourteen hours was watched and basted by re- 
lays of assistants under the head cook, after which it was 
trimmed and decorated, with the holly and mistletoe appa- 
rently sprouting from the outside fat of the meat." 

I also find the following advertisement for the Christmas 
festivities : " A Baron of Beef will be roasted on Wednes- 
day next at the Merchants' Dining Kooms, Lancaster Build- 



38 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

ings, Exchange-street, East Liverpool. Will be placed on 
the table at one o'clock," etc. 

In this city I have found several instances where this 
great dish was prepared and served, and a few of these evi- 
dences of the fact are now in my possession in the shape of 
old bills of fare. About the first found on my list was given 
by William Sykes, who kept one of the best public houses 
at the period of which this " baron of beef" was given, then 
called the " New York Coffee House," and located at the 
corner of William-street and Slote-lane (Beaver-street.) 

This took place on the 8th of October, 1823, in honor of 
the union of the Erie Canal waters with the Hudson Eiver, on 
which occasion he served up " a ' baron of beef measuring 
nearly four feet in length, and weighing one hundred and 
twelve pounds. It was placed upon a marble slab and sur- 
mounted with a white silk flag, bearing the arms of the State, 
and painted for the occasion." Then at the Agricultural 
Society's dinner, which took place on Friday, the 31st inst. 
following, at a place called " Mount Vernon," located on the 
East River, just above the (Youle's) shot-tower. Another 
" baron of beef," weighing but one hundred and nine pounds, 
was furnished by Thomas Gibbons, No. 60 Fulton Market. 

The year following (1824), the corporation gave a dinner, 
on Monday, the 5th of July, in the City-Hall, when a large 
baron of beef was on the table ; and the next year they 
gave another, quite as large as the previous one, on Mon- 
day, the 4th of July. I am also much indebted to Charles 
H. Webb, Esq., the almoner of St. George Society, who in- 
forms me that this Society has had several barons of beef 
served up at their Anniversary dinners, which were princi- 
pally prepared by Mr. and Mrs. William Niblo. The fol- 
lowing incident will show one of the mistakes which 
occurred with perhaps the largest and finest baron of beef 
ever prepared for, or attempted to be roasted in New York, 
or elsewhere. This, no doubt, occurred from the anxiety 
of Mrs. Niblo to outdo all former efforts of giving this 
choice piece in the greatest perfection. She gave the order 



BEEF. 39 

and her instructions to Mr. Andrew C. Wheeler (butcher, 
No. 19 Fulton Market), that it should be the largest and 
finest that he could procure. It was taken from a very 
choice animal, and, when trimmed, weighed some two 
hundred and eighty pounds then sent to Niblo — who then 
kept his famous garden and hotel corner of Broadway and 
Prince-street — the day before the grand dinner of the St. 
George Society was to take place. The same night, late, 
Mrs. Niblo was about to put it down to roast. She found 
it so large and unwieldy that she could not spit it, let alone 
roast it ; so, about midnight, she sent for Mr. Wheeler, 
who came, and, after cutting some one hundred pounds or 
more off of it, they were enabled to get it spitted, and near 
enough to the fire to commence this great roast for the 
next afternoon's dinner. They had, however, almost given 
it up in despair before they succeeded ; but it was said that 
it was superbly cooked and served up, as every thing else 
was with which Mrs. Niblo had to do. 

Dividing the baron of beef exactly through the centre of 
the loins, or back-bone, produces two sirloins — a name 
which has become extensively known and commonly asso- 
ciated with this choice part of the carcass. It is said that 
the name originated with Charles II., who jocularly knighted 
that part of the animal Sir-Loin. 

We will again turn to the different quarters of beef, and 
show the most prominent joints marked on the figure sep- 
arately ; but perhaps a brief explanation, showing how and 
where to obtain these joints, which to cut off first, and how 
to handle or lay the different quarters in the most con- 
venient way to separate or cut them up, is first in order. 

The hind-quarter is first laid down on a strong table, 
back down ; the buttock and flank, together, are first sepa- 
rated, the other part turned over on the other (suet) side, 
when the knife divides the rump-piece from the sirloin. 
These two pieces — rump-piece and buttock — will be sub- 
divided hereafter ; in the mean time, we will show that, if 
the sirloin-piece is wanted or sold for the use of hotels 



4:0 



THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 



or steamers, it is either sent whole or cut into roasts or 
steaks, as desired. 

The Boston and Philadelphia butchers, after cutting off 
the buttock and thin-end sirloin, are prepared to cut their 
fine rump-steaks, which are much the same as our sirloin- 
steak, only cut more across the hip (or pin) bone. Many 
of them remove part of the bone. 

We will now divide the sirloin-piece into portions suitable 
for families who want roasting-pieces, which are cut of all 




Middle-Cut Sirloin. 

sizes : the thick part, containing the hip-bone, will give the 
largest piece, while the small end cuts two small pieces, say 
from eight to twelve pounds each. The best of these is 
shown in the above figure, and usually called the " middle- 
cut sirloin." 

The other part, adjoining the ribs, is usually known as 
the thin-end sirloin, being much like the middle-cut sirloin, 
but with less tenderloin, and is sometimes preferred for a 
small family, or those who seek it for its close proximity to 
the prime ribs. It is also cut up into small-loin or porter- 
house steaks. 

The thick part of the sirloin, by cutting off a few round- 
bone steaks adjoining the rump side, contains the largest 
part of the tenderloin, or filet-de-bceuf, which forms a large 
and choice piece for roasting, from twelve to twenty-five 



BEEF. 



41 



pounds in weight. This piece is shown in the figure below, 
and usually known as the " hip-sirloin." 

This choice part of the beef is sometimes termed the 
thick-end sirloin; and, when it is not used for roasting, it is 
cut into three kinds of the finest dinner-steaks, all com- 
monly called sirloin steaks, but separately. The first anr T 




Hif -Sirloin. 

best, containing the largest quantity of tenderloin, is shown 
in the figure on following page, and known as the "hip 
sirloin-steak," of which there are but two or three in one 
sirloin. 

Next in order is the "flat-bone sirloin-steak" (shown in 
figure on page 43), of which there are about the same num- 
ber as the "hip sirloin-steak." This is followed by the 
same number of the " round-bone sirloin-steak" (shown in 
figure on page 44), which is cut up to the socket-bone or 
socket-piece. This latter steak makes an excellent beef- 
steak-pie, beef-tea, minced collops, etc., as it contains more 
lean than either of the preceding-named steaks. 

I am much indebted to Henry W. Dunshee, Esq., for the 
following " Origin of Beefsteak :" 

" The discovery of the chief sources of human enjoyment 
has all been attributed to some fabulous origin in the an- 
cient world. The story of that important feature of dinner, 



42 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



the beefsteak, was thus given in the middle ages : — Lucius 
Plaucus, a Roman of rank, was ordered by the Emperor 
Trajan, for some offence, to act as one of the menial sacri- 
ficers to Jupiter ; he resisted, but was at length dragged to 




y V' > ■' /■ 



w 1 

w y/1 




Hip Sirloin-Steak. 

the altar. There the fragments of the victim were laid 
upon the fire, and the unfortunate senator was forcibly 
compelled to turn them. In the process of roasting, one of 
the slices slipped off the coals and was caught by Plaucus 
in its fall. It burned his fingers, and he instinctively thrust 



BEEF. 43 

them into his mouth. In that moment he had made the 
grand discovery that the taste of a slice thus carbonaded 
was infinitely beyond all the old sodden cookery of Eome. 
A new expedient to save his dignity was suggested at the 



Flat-Bone Sirloin-Steak. 

same time, and he at once evinced his obedience to the 
emperor by seeming to go through the sacrifices with due 
regularity, and his scorn of the employment by turning the 
whole ceremony into a matter of appetite. He swallowed 
every slice, deluded Trajan, defrauded Jupiter, and in- 
vented the beefsteak ! A discovery of this magnitude could 
not be long concealed ; the sacrifices began to disappear 



u 



THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 



with a rapidity and satisfaction to the parties too extra- 
ordinary to be unnoticed. The. priests of Jupiter adopted 
the practice with delight, and the king of Olympus must 
have been soon starved if he depended on any share of the 
good things of Eome." 






J j kjym 



9 I A iw> 

Vm ft 1 ' : ''. . ■ 
I *' If i) , ,;,{«! 

I I!..!' I' V, >,' V? 



I 



ffp * ' tfjfo 




Ilium 

1 w mil •• 

- - 111 w 



mm 




s 




Round-Bone Sirloin-Steak. 

Broiling steaks. — In the early part of the nine- 
teenth century, when travelling by the stage-coaches was 
the fashion, Mr. Southmayd, my neighbor, says : " Travellers 
going to the eastern cities and towns — Boston, New Haven, 
etc. — and those who travelled much, were always anxious to 



BEEF. 45 

reach New Haven, to enjoy a good broiled heefsteak. A 
man, by the name of Butler, kept a public house in that 
town, in Chapel-street, and, about that time, was famous 
for his delicious steaks, which he always cooked or attended 
to himself. You would find him, with his white cap and 
apron on, before a heap of live hickory coals, in front of the 
great wide old-fashioned chimney, having a long handle 
attached to a large double (hinged) gridiron, and a fine 
steak fastened up in it, so that he could keep the steak 
turning, first on the one side then on the other, that not a 
drop of the fine gravy should drip off. When done, it was 
dished up, and placed steaming hot before the hungry 
travellers, who never failed to do ample justice to the efforts 
of the cook, who, by these means, built a reputation, as well 
as a fortune, by the knowledge of broiling a beefsteak." 

The rules adopted by the celebrated " Beefsteak Club," 
organized in England, in 1734, were thus represented : 

"HOW TO COOK A BEEFSTEAK. 

" Pound well your meat until the fibres break ; 
Be sure that next you have, to broil the steak, 
Good coal in plenty ; nor a moment leave, 
But turn it over this way and then that. 
The lean should be quite rare — not so the fat : 
The platter now and then the juice receive. 
Put on your butter — place it on your meat — 
Salt, pepper ; turn it over, serve and eat." 

The small-end sirloin, when not called for roasting, is cut 
into " small loin steaks," vulgarly known as " porterhouse 
steaks," which are represented in the following wood-cut 
under the head of " small loin steaks." 

The origin of the name of " porter-house steaks" took place 
about the year 1814, in the following manner : 

Martin Morrison was the proprietor of a long-established 
and well-kept "porter-house," located and known at that 
period at No. 327 Pearl-street (New York), near the " old 
Walton House." "We introduce him in 1803, where we find 



4:6 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Small Loin, or Porter-House Steaks. 



he opens a " porter-house" at No. 43 Cherry -street, which 
became a popular resort with many of the New York pilots 
for his prepared hot meals, at any hour, at their call, they 
being occasionally detained on shipboard until their vessels 
were safely moored. 

The " porter-houses" in those days were not so devoted 
to tippling, dram-drinking, and the common nests for the 
loafing, or the manufacturing of politicians and corrupt offi- 
cials as at the present day, but rather to accommodate the 
hungry and thirsty travellers, old and young bachelors, sea- 
men, and others with a cold lunch after the English custom 
— " a pot of ale [or porter] and a bite of something." Some 
" porter-houses" prepared a hot meal of one or two dishes, 
among which was Morrison's, who must have been quite 
famous for his excellent broiled beefsteaks, which were uni- 
versally called for at his place. 

On one occasion (at the above period, 1814), Morrison 
having had an unusual call for steaks, he had cooked his 
last steak, and, as fortune would have it for all future par- 
takers of beefsteaks, an old favorite but a rough pilot, made 
him a late visit, both hungry and thirsty, having been sev- 
eral hours without food. Not caring for the salt junk aboard 
the vessel which he had piloted in, he concluded to wait 
until he got on shore, that he might cast his anchor at Mor- 



BEEF. 47 

rison's, where lie could enjoy his " hot steak and mug of 
porter." 

In his honest language the pilot gave his usual order. 
Morrison had nothing but his family dinner for the 
next day, which consisted of a sirloin roasting-piece, of 
which he offered to cut from if the old pilot would have it. 
" Yes, my hearty, any thing — so long as it is a beefsteak — 
for I am as empty as a gull !" exclaimed the pilot. Morri- 
san cut off a good-sized slice, had it dressed and served, 
which the pilot ravenously devoured, and turning to the 
host (who had been expecting a blast from the old tarpau- 
lin, but who, to his astonishment, received the order) : 
"Messmate, another steak just like that — do you hear?" 
Having finished his steaks and the second mug of porter, 
the old pilot squared himself towards his host, loudly vocif- 
erating, "Look ye here, messmate, after this I want my 
steaks off the roasting-piece ! — do ye hear that ? — so mind 
your weather-eye, old boy !" 

It was not long after this when the old pilot's companions 
insisted upon having these "small loin steaks" served to 
thorn. Morrison soon discovered that these steaks were 
more suitable in size to dish up for single individuals, and 
he ever after purchased the sirloin roasting-pieces, from 
which he cut off these small steaks as they were called for, 
the large sirloin-steaks becoming less in demand. 

Morrison's butcher — Thomas Gibbons — in the Fly Mar- 
ket, one morning put the question, after he (Morrison) had 
selected several sirloin pieces, "Why he had ceased pur- 
chasing the usual quantity of sirloin steaks ?" Says Morri- 
son, " I will tell you the reason : I cut off from the sirloin 
roasting-pieces a small steak which serves my pilots and 
single patrons best ; but as it is now cold weather, I wish 
to have these roasting-pieces cut up as I shall direct every 
morning." After this, Morrison's sirloins were daily cut up 
by Mr. Gibbons, with his order to " cut steaks for the por- 
ter-house ;" hence the sirloin was changed into " cut the 
porter-house steaks." Their appearance attracted the atten- 



48 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

tion of other butchers and keepers of porter-houses, who 
admired their appearance and convenient size ; in a few 
years their name and character became quite common to 
the butchers of the Fly Market, from which the name has 
spread to the several principal cities of the United States, 
and I doubt not that the name, porter-house steak, has reached 
across the Atlantic. 

Tender- loin (or filet de hoeuf). This most tender por- 
tion of the beef is taken from the under or kidney side of 
the whole sirloin, behind the suet, stretching along the inner 
loin or backbone. It commences at, and connects with the 
round-bone steak, extending to the thin-end sirloin, and sel- 
dom weighs above ten pounds when all taken out. It is 
much thicker and broader at one end, gradually tapering 
to the other, and measuring from sixteen to twenty inches 
in length. It is considered the most tender, and by many 
the choicest part of the animal, and therefore always com- 
mands an extra price. 

The reason of the tenderness of this choice bit is, that it 
is so situated in the animal while living, that the uses of 
this flesh or muscle is little called into action, and lies well 
warmed and protected by the fat on one side, and on the 
other by the backbone. It is found that those parts of the 
animal's flesh are tender which are not brought into wear 
and tear by the ordinary movements of the animal, of which 
it would seem the back, the loin, and the rump appear to 
have the least straining, and therefore in those parts is 
found the tenderest flesh ; on the contrary, the neck, legs, 
sides, and buttocks are brought into violent action by the 
physical efforts in walking, eating, lying down, stretching, 
rubbing, and other muscular movements. 

The tenderloin is not recognized by the epicure as either 
being the sweetest or best-flavored meat. The cause of this 
will be readily understood when it is known, as already 
stated, that this muscle is not used as much as are the other 
sweeter portions of the beef ; hence, the blood flows more 
sluggishly through its substance, with the consequent less 



BEEF. 



49 



nervous force brought to bear upon it. We therefore find, 
while the tenderloin possesses the attribute of tenderness, 
it must be recognized as being flabby, or soft, or deficient 
in tone or firmness compared with the glowing life-giving 
essentials observable in the meat of ribs, rumps, and the 
top side of the sirloin, and other outside portions of slaugh- 
tered animals. 

The animal which is kept housed, especially in a small 
dark pen, often breathing an impure atmosphere while fat- 




Socket-Piece. 



tening, will not produce well -flavored flesh ; but it certainly 
will be more tender (in consequence of the inaction, from 
being penned up and forced into quietness) than that which 
is taken from the animals fattened and exercised in the free 



50 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

open air, upon the same food. In fact, wild animals, which 
range and fatten upon the hills and mountains, always pro- 
duce flesh the sweetest, as well as of the highest flavor, and 




Rump of Beef. 

certainly the most healthy for human food. It would ap- 
pear that the genial warmth of the sun, the pure mountain 
air, and the short sweet mountain-grasses, produce their in- 
fluences in perfecting and sweetening living things, whether 
animal or vegetable, intended for our sustenance. 

The whole rump-piece is usually divided into two or more 
pieces. The first, or that which joins on the sirloin, is 
called the face-rump, or " socket-piece" (shown in the figure 
on preceding page). The other part is known by the 
common name, "rump of beef" (shown in the above figure). 

When this piece is divided through the centre streak of 



BEEF. 51 

fat, cutting about half-way across the dark bone, on the 
left side of the fat, the smallest piece on the left side is 
called the edge-hone (aitch, H, itch, or adze bone), and the 
other side the tail-end-rump, or "rump-piece." From the 
rump of beef are also cut pieces for doube, bouilli, stewing, 
potted beef, fricandeau, etc., and, when left whole, is one of 
the best joints of corned beef. 

The buttock, cut large or full, by cutting off the flank 
and fat, forms three pieces for smoking, viz., inside piece, 
outside piece, and veiny piece; the first is generally preferred, 
although the latter is the most tender. This leaves a large 
leg of beef. Or the buttock can be cut into two rounds of 
beef — the first and second cuts. The second cut is usually 
smaller and not so good as the first cut. They are used for 
d~la~mode, d-la-doube, bouilli, stewing, and for corning. 




Round op Beef. 

The parts remaining, being a small veiny piece and the 
thick part of the leg of beef, are used for soups, etc., after 
having been cut into pieces across the marrow or leg-bone. 

The buttock is often prepared by some "old-country 
men" for a Scotch ham, by taking off the flank, the veiny 
piece, and removing the whole of the leg-bone ; it is then 



52 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

cured in a sugar and spice pickle, after which it is bound 
hard with cord, when it is either hung to dry or lightly 
smoked, and is then generally used as smoked beef. 

If the buttock is cut for a Scotch ham or smokers, the 
leg, when taken out, will have the marrow-bone attached, 
and assume the appearance of the following figure. 




Leg of Beef. 

Top of Sirloin. — This piece is known by some as the 
"thick flank," being a connection with the flank and the 
sirloin — a piece without bone, quite tender, and well mixed 
with fat ; used for corning, stewing, etc. The flank is either 
turned on the round of beef, or the fat trimmed off, when 
the lean parts are excellent for stewing, etc. 




Middle Bibs. 



The fore-quarter being now ready, is laid upon a bench 
or block, ribs or inside down. It is then cut down on the 



BEEF. 



53 



chuck side, close against the large prominent shoulder- 
bone, which is sawed through, and the shoulder-clod is cut 
off. The other part of the quarter is then divided, leaving 
the ribs and chuck in one piece, and the plate, navel, cross- 
rib, and brisket in the other. We nest separate the two 
latter from the plate and navel (after counting four ribs 
under the cross-rib), an<l follow on by cutting off the 
brisket, and separating the navel from the plate-piece 
They are then ready for cuisine. 

There are thirteen ribs in this quarter, nine of which are 
cut off from the chuck : the first seven of which are called 
prime ribs, and are cut into the choicest roasting-pieces, by 




First-Cut Ems. 



subdividing (if not sold whole) into three or more pieces. 
The first ribs begin from the thin-end sirloin, and are always 



54 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



the smallest and most suitable for a small family ; which, 
when required, it is usual to cut two ribs — first and second 
(or first, second, and third) — which are called the " first-cut 
ribs," a representation of which can be seen on the preced- 
ing page. 

The next ribs — third and fourth — or representing the 
third, fourth, and fifth as the " middle-cut ribs," or " second- 
cut ribs," are illustrated on page fifty-two. 

And the last two (sixth and seventh), the thickest part of 
the prime ribs, are called 

Third-cut Ribs. 




Each of these prime ribs is considered by many epicures 
to be the finest and best-flavored pieces of the animal, not 



BEEF. 



55 



excepting the sirloin. These choice pieces are usually 
roasted, although the first and second cuts are sometimes 
used for rolled beef, having all the bone taken out and 
skewered into a round form, when it is used for a la mode, 
or occasionally roasted in this form. 

The last of the nine ribs (eighth and ninth) are known as 
the 

Fikst-cut Chuck Rib. 




Although it has a thin point of the shoulder-blade through 
it, yet it is supplied with more flesh, according with the 
bone, which makes it a profitable and good piece, both as 
to price and quality. 

The cliuck contains the last four ribs (making thirteen in 
all) running under the shoulder-blade, and the neck-piece 
makes up the balance of the chuck. 

These chuck ribs are usually divided into pieces of one or 



56 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



two ribs each. The first two— tenth and eleventh — are 
called 

Secoitd-cut Chuck Rib. 




A very sweet, juicy eating-piece of beef, not quite so tender 
as the first-cut chuck rib, but as well flavored. This joint sells 
at a much less price per pound. The next cut, being the 
twelfth and thirteenth, or both ribs together, is usually known 
as a " chuck piece," or chuck rib. These pieces are not 
quite so good, but having the blade taken out (as all others 
should be that have it in), and a piece of nice fat or suet 
placed or skewered in, makes an excellent piece to " roast 
in the pot," a la mode, potted beef, bouille, for mince pies, 
soups, etc. 



BEEF. 57 

When four of these chuck ribs, with the neck end, are left 
together, it is known as a chuck, and ofttimes this whole 
piece is cut into and sold as chuch steaks ; the first of them, 
when from a choice animal, are next in quality to the sir- 
loin steaks, being as well mixed or marbled with fat, and 
are equally sweet and juicy. 

The balance of the chuck, or rather neck-piece, is usually 
divided into three or more pieces. The first, next to the 
chuck, is called first-cut neck-piece, and so on. These pieces 
are excellent for a sweet, strengthening soup, or mince pies, 
bolognas, etc. 

The cross -rib (which the English call leg-of-mutton piece), 
is a profitable and good piece, very fair for a plain roast, 
one of the best for stewing, d la mode, bouille, and for what 
some of our " old-fashioned folks" call " roast in the pot." 

The brisket-piece is much used by the French for 
bouille, soup, and a very good piece corned or salted. 

The plate-piece (in Boston called rattle-ran) is com- 
monly used for corned or salted beef, and the best for press- 
ing. Many butchers roll it — after taking all the bones out 
— with sugar, spice, etc., then tie or skewer it up in a round 
form. After being well cured it is known as Scotch roll, a 
name given it by the author. It is an excellent dish when cold. 

The navel-piece (or thin-end brisket) is much used for 
the same purposes as the plate and brisket pieces. These 
three pieces are used principally for salting, packing, ex- 
portation, and shipping uses. 




Shin of Beef. 



The shoulder-clod, or clod, when cut in pieces, is 
principally used in soups, bouille, etc. The meat is juicy 



58 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



and tender, with a nice marrow-bone in each piece, except 
the thick end, sometimes known as " Old Tom," although it 
contains a large bone, which, though hidden from view, is 
excellent for a rich soup. 

The shin of heel*, which is represented on the preced- 
ing page, is taken from off the clod ; it is fit for nothing 
but stock for soup. When well and properly boiled, it 
makes a rich, gelatinous soup. 

The stick! ng-piece is also taken from the clod, but 
of late years is seldom taken off. It is used principally for 
mince-pies, stews, soups, etc. 

Ma If- bison (or buffalo) heifer. — An animal of the half- 
breed, or cross of the bison bull and Durham cow, was 
slaughtered by me in the month of October, 1855, and for 
further particulars the following extract is taken from the 




Fifth and Sixth Ribs. 



" Transactions of the American Institute," page two hun- 
dred and nineteen of the volume for 1855. 

"This animal's age was between three and four years 



TEAL. 59 

— live weight nearly one thousand seven hundred pounds. 
The four quarters (dead) weighed nine hundred and forty 
pounds (rough fat one hundred and twelve pounds — hide 
seventy-five pounds). On the hump the fat measured three 
and one-half inches, on the loin two inches, and cut beauti- 
fully marbled. (See figure of the fifth and sixth ribs.) 

" Her color almost black, with tan-colored long hair on 
her shoulders, and also long hair under her chin and at the 
fetlocks ; with the turn-up horns, round nose, and the wild 
flashing eye of the bison. When fastened up in a large pen 
she was so cross and vicious that no person dare go in the 
pen with her, and when a red object presented itself, whether 
a shawl on a lady or the red shirt of a workman, she would 
become very much excited and pitch directly at' the object, 
or as far as she could go. 

" Colonel De Voe reported that he had sold all her ' beef,' 
without giving an opinion either in favor or against the eat- 
ing qualities, but wished those to whom he sold cuts to re- 
port on this point after having partaken. There were but 
two who reported unfavorably, some ten or twelve who 
thought ' they never eat finer flavored or more tender beef,' 
and a very large number, among whom was Lieutenant-Gen- 
eral Scott, reported that the ' beef ' was very high-flavored, 
with a taste of game, but not so juicy as our first-quality 
beef." 



VEAL. 

The calf, after it is slaughtered and dressed, is called 
veal ; but, unlike the ox or steer, in the dressing, our regu- 
lar butchers seldom take off its skin until the day it is to be 
placed on their stalls for sale. It is retained on the carcass 
for the purpose of keeping the flesh moist, bright, and 
clean. 

Selecting the various calves to produce the best veal, I 
have placed them in the following order : 



60 



THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 



1. Heifer-calf, from 4 to 6 weeks old, fed wholly on milk. 

2. Bull-calf, 

3. Steer-calf, from 6 to 10 weeks old, fed partially on milk and meal. 

4. Heifer-calf, 

5. Bull-calf, 

6. Steer-calf, from 10 months up to yearling, fed as above. 

7. Heifer-calf, 

8. Bull-calf, 

The age of the calf not being less than four nor more than 
six weeks, produces the best veal, if properly fed and in 
a healthy condition. At a less age veal is not fit for food, 
as the flesh is flaccid, gelatinous, and watery. "When calves 
are wholly fed from the cow, and range between the age of 




1. Loin of veal. 

2. Leg of veal. 

3. Shoulder of veal. 

4. Neck of veal. 



5. Breast of veal. 

6. Calf s head. 

7. Calf's feet. 



four to six weeks, they produce what may be called milk 
veal, being the most white, tender, and delicate, and con- 
sidered the choicest eating of all other veal. After six 
weeks the calf requires more food than the mother can pro- 
duce : the milk of another cow, or a little meal, grass, or 
hay, is also given. This change of food, with advance of its 
age, of course, materially alters the character of the flesh, 
both in quality and color, which becomes darker, while the 



VEAL. 



61 



fat is more yellow and the meat less juicy. When turned 
out and wholly fed on grass (grass calves), the flesh is ren- 
dered poor, dry, tasteless, and usually dark-colored. 

Good veal should be finely grained, tender, and juicy, the 
fat firm and of a whitish color. If too white, the yeal will 
show that the calf has been bled before being slaugh- 
tered — a process which may add to its appearance, but 
which deprives the meat of much of its juiciness as well as 
its sweet flavor. 

The figure on preceding page represents a calf about six 
weeks old, and is marked out with lines and numbers, show- 
ing the different joints- and their several names. 




Loin of Veal. 



The hind -quarter of veal is the choice, and always 
commands the highest price. It is usually divided into two 



62 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



parts when found on the butcher's stall, which are com- 
monly called the loin and leg of veal. The figure on preced- 
ing page represents a loin of veal, which is the choicest 
portion for roasting, either whole or divided. It also makes 
fine veal chops, either for broiling, frying, or stewing, etc. 
When the loin is too large, it is divided into two small 
joints ; the thin end is called " kidney-end," and the other 
"thick-end," and, by foreigners, the "chump-end." 
We now turn to the 

Leg of Veal, 




which is sometimes used whole for roasting, or from it is 
cut the " fillet of veal," " veal cutlets," for fricandeau, force- 
meats, collops, etc. The fillet of veal is boned by the 
butcher, and is used generally for roasting, stewing, etc. 
The " knuckle of veal," being a part of the leg of veal after 
the fillet or cutlets are taken from it, makes a good light 
soup, a stew, or boil, etc. 



VEAL. 



63 



The fore-quarter of veal comprises the shoulder, 
the neck, and the breast. The following figure repre- 
sents a 

Shoulder of Veal, 




with all the bone, or blade, taken out. It is a good joint 
for being stuffed to roast, and will answer for that purpose 
without boning. A small family can make two dishes from - 
i it, by having the blade taken from the thin end, for roast- 
ing, stewing, etc. The " knuckle," or hock-end, left with 
the flesh on, with the blade-bone, will make a good soup or 
stew, at a slight cost. 



64 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 




Neck and Bkeast of Veal. 



The Ibreast ©f veal is shown, on the left of the above 
engraving, connected with the " neck of veal," running from 
figure 1, directly down across the inside ribs, to figure 2. 
The breast is seen with the fat and throat sweet-bread at- 
tached, as it is usually dressed by the market-butcher. The 
sweet-breads are, however, sold separately. 

Many persons prefer the breast of veal for roasting, stew- 
ing, veal-pie, and ragout ; and it is sometimes boned, so as 
to roll, or a large hole is cut into it for the reception of 
stuffing, etc. 

The neck of veal is used for stewing, fricassee, veal- 
pie (either pot or oven) ; and the best or rib end is pre- 
ferred by the French and Germans for " rib chops" or " veal 
cotelettes" — (not " veal cutlets.") 

The head, feet, haslet, sweet-breads, and other parts of 
the calf, are noticed under another head. 



MUTTON. 65 



MUTTON. 

The flesh of sheep, when slaughtered and dressed, is 
known by the name of mutton : a single one whole, a car- 
cass of mutton ; many together, mutton carcasses. 

The various kinds, ages, and sex of sheep producing the 
best mutton, are placed in the following order : 



never having had lambs. 



1. Wether (cosset), from 3 to 5 years old. 


2. Wether, 


U 11 tt 


3. Wether, 


" 1 to 3 " 


4. Ewe (cosset), 


' 3 to 5 " r 


5. Ewe, 


t (i tt 


6. Ewe, 


1 1 to 3 " 


7. Ewe (young, breed 


ing, but dry). 


8. Ewe, of any age. 




9. Stag sheep, of any 


age — young best. 


0. Buck or ram, ' 


[ tt 



The age of the animal producing the best mutton appears 
to be between three and five years old. They are then bet- 
ter interlarded, or mixed with fat, through the flesh, when full 
fed, and if not driven too far will have a large kidney fat. 
The cosset wether is selected as producing the best mutton, 
because we find its temper and habits are more docile and 
gentle. It is usually better fed than other sheep, and it is 
rarely worried in or out of the fields, but rather treated as a 
pet around the house or barnyard; therefore we find its 
flesh generally in the best condition. 

Young wether mutton, although usually tender, has not 
so much rich flavor and sweetness as the same kind when 
older or fully developed by proper feeding and age. 

It is asserted by some that mutton is best immediately 
after being killed, or before the animal heat has parted from 
it. If so, Lhave not discovered it, and I have eaten from 
the same animal on several different occasions — when fresh 
and long killed — and have always found the fresh-killed 

5 



66 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

mutton taste much as it smells when dressing the animal, 
that is, what butchers call " woolly," or " sheepy," and never 
so sweet or tender as the long-killed, or that which has hung 
the longest in clear, cool air, where the flesh has not been 
permitted to dry too much or become tainted ; the fibre 
then has become tender, yields easily to the powers of mas- 
tication, and, while much of the fresh, thin, tasteless juices 
or water are dried out, experience shows that the thick, 
sweet juices are left. 

The different breeds and feeding have also a great deal to 
do in producing the best qualities. A large-framed, coarse- 
woolled, fat sheep produces a coarse-grained, dry, and but 
indifferent-flavored mutton ; while the middle-woolled, round, 
plump, thick sheep — generally found in the Southdown, Lei- 
cester, Cotswold, etc., breeds — produces the close-grained, 
tender, juicy, and high-flavored mutton, especially when they 
are allowed to feed upon the short, sweet grass of the 
hills and mountains, with the addition of proper stall-feed- 
ing afterwards. 

A great deal of the mutton brought to New York City by 
the steamers from England, and paraded so ostentatiously 
at many of our first-class restaurants, hotels, etc., is gen- 
erally no better than our best mutton, which can be pro- 
cured from any of our first-class butchers, and more es- 
pecially when it has been " hung." The principal advantage 
of the English mutton is on account of its being long-killed 
when it arrives here. I will not, however, say that we pro- 
duce as much fine mutton, because I know we do not. The 
climate of England is more favorable, it never being so cold 
but that the sheep can be left out all winter, without being 
housed at all : in fact, I am told that these animals can eat 
the turnips out of the ground, where they are left for that 
purpose, while ours, to keep them improving, must be 
housed and well cared for, to produce this excellent meat in 
perfection. 

Many travellers say that mutton is the favorite meat of 
the English people of all classes ; it, however, is not so in 



MUTTON. 



67 



this country yet ; but its consumption is gradually increas- 
ing, and, I think, quite as fast as the improvement and 
increase of the fine breeds of sheep. 

General opinion confirms the fact that good mutton is 
one of the most wholesome, as well as the most easily di- 
gested, of all the meat kind, and therefore best calculated 
for invalids. 

In choosing the best mutton, perhaps a few remarks may 
assist the unpractised buyer. The fat should be white, 
clear, and hard, the scored skin on the fore-quarters nearly 
red, the lean firm, succulent, and juicy, rather of a darkish 
red color, and the leg-bones clear and nearly or quite white. 

Indifferent and poor mutton is seldom fat ; but if so, the 
fat will have a yellowish appearance : and if the animal has 
been driven a long way, or diseased, the flesh will be flabby, 
the kidney-fat small, with a stringy appearance, and the lean 
seen through the skin on the back of a dark bluish shade. 

The flesh of ram -mutton is usually found to be dark, 




1. Leg of Mutton. 

2. Shoulder of " 

3. Loin of 

4. & 6. Neck of " 



5. Breast of Mutton. 

6. Scrag " (end of the neck). 

7. Flank " 



close, and coarse-grained ; the fat is of a darker (and some 
times of a yellowish) shade than that found in good mutton, 
while the flesh is softer and spongy, and rank in its flavor. 



68 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

In dividing or cutting up a" carcass of mutton," it is 
usual, first, to split it through the backbone into two sides, 
and if the weather should be unfavorable for hanging them 
any length of time, it will be best to hang them separately, 
without quartering them. "In some parts of England," 
says the Westmoreland Gazette, " it is usual at Christmas 
for the farmers to kill each a sheep for their own use, on 




Saddle of Mutton. 

which occasion, when the butcher inquires if they want any 
meat against Christmas, the usual reply is, ' Nay, I think 
not ; I think o' killing myself.' Last Christmas a butcher 
called on a farmer of his acquaintance in the usual manner, 
saying, ' Will ye want a bit of meat, or ye'll kill yerself this 
Christmas ?' ' I nae not,' replied the farmer, ' whether I'se 
kill myself or take a side o' me father.' " 



MUTTON. 69 

In the figure on page sixty-seven is shown the various 
prominent pieces, designated by the number of each piece. 

The carcass is also often cut with the two hind- quarters 
together, and so hung up on the stalls, sometimes for weeks, 
if in weather fit for keeping it, or long enough to ripen it. 
This hanging of meats is a great loss to the butcher, from 
the effect of drying out the juices, thereby lessening the 
weight. An animal of eighty pounds weight, hung up for 
two weeks, will lose from eight to twelve pounds, accord- 
ing to the state of the weather, which loss, with the risk of 
sudden changes of either close, damp, warm, or muggy 
weather, should demand an increased price, or a proper al- 
lowance made for the loss on the original weight. There 
are some families, however, who have proper places, and 
buy their mutton fresh, when it is used as it is required. 

When two connected hind-quarters, which I have desig- 
nated hind-saddle, are ready to be used or cut for a saddle, 
they are hung by the right leg : then cut a part through the 
aitch-bone ; and again, cut off the legs, either ham (as seen 
on the preceding page) or haunch fashion, which leaves the 
two loins together, and are known as a " saddle of mutton." 

This being the finest and choicest part of the mutton for 
roasting, it should always, if the weather will admit, be well 
hung, and then, before use, have the outside fleshy skin 
taken off. An excellent large chop which I have called 
saddle-chop, is cut off from the rib end of a saddle of mut- 
ton. "When in a frozen state, it should be sawed off like 
venison, which adds much to its tenderness. 

The two fore-quarters, when left together, I have 
designated with the name of fore-saddle, although usually 
called fore-quarters ; and this name is usually given them 
when separated ; but fore-quarter will properly apply to 
one, as it is usually known. 

When the tore-saddle is wanted for a large roast, or 
to corn, the two breasts and shanks are taken off, with a 
piece or scrag end of the neck ; which leaves a good thick 
piece I have named chines of mutton, but when separated, 



70 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

each one a chine of mutton. By taking out the shoulder- 
blade it leaves less labor for the carver. For a small family, 
the latter piece makes a profitable and good piece, either to 
roast, corn, or it may be cut into lean chops. 

If, however, the carcass is split and quartered, either one 
of the four quarters can be used whole for roasting, etc., or 
the 

Hind-Quarter of Mutton 




can be divided by taking off, ham fashion or haunch fashion, 
as shown in leg" of mutton on opposite page. 

One of the most useful, it commands the highest price of 
any joint of the carcass. It is a choice part for boiling, 
soup, corned, etc., and when well hung it is best for a roast. 
The part left of the hind-quarter is called the loin of mutton. 



MUTTON. 
Leg of Mutton. 



a 










which is generally used for chops (sometimes called Eng- 
lish chops), or for roasting, haricot, etc. The loin of mut- 
ton being one-half of the saddle, should also have the light 
tough skin taken off the back fat before use. The following 
anecdote was created by a gentleman who was carving this 
joint, when he said : " Shall I cut this loin of mutton sad- 
dle-wise ?" " No," said his friend. " Cut it bridle-wise, for 
then we may have a chance to get a bit in our mouths." 

The Foke-Quabter op Mutton, 




if small, not too fat, and cracked like lamb, or it has the 
shoulder-blade taken out, makes an excellent piece to roast, 



72 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

or corned whole ; but when wanted in pieces, the shoulder 
should be first taken off, which will appear as follows — 

Shoulder of Mutton, 




used for roasting, soup, stewing, etc. A London paper of 
1804 says : " Yesterday a journeyman blacksmith, of the 
name of Sattle, a noted gormandizer, undertook, for a trifling 
wager, to eat a shoulder of mutton of six pounds weight, 
with a proportionate quantity of vegetables, and a three- 
penny loaf, and to drink a quart of ale, at a public house 
in the neighborhood of Golden Lane. He was to perform 
the task in an hour ; but he completed it in fifty minutes, 
and actually bespoke a supper of bread and bacon." "We 




LAMB. 73 

turn and chop off the neck of mutton from the breast, which 
is fit for a stew, haricot, etc., or from which are cut ribs 
singly (Fig. 1), the French cotelette, or rib chops (the one 
on the right, Fig. 2, is ready trimmed for use), which leaves 
the scrag end of the neck — a piece much used for broth for 
the sick ; or the whole neck, cut up, is used for haricot, 
stew, pies, etc. 

The breast — the lowest-priced joint of the carcass — is 
used for stewing, pies, etc. Other parts of the sheep are 
described under another head. 



LAMB. 

Lamb is accepted by its name after it is slaughtered and 
dressed. The same terms and names apply to the similar 
named joints of mutton, by using the word lamb in place of 
mutton. 

This young animal is usually known among butchers as 
lamb until it arrives at the age of about twelve months, 
when it is termed yearling, although at this period the year- 
ling is often dressed " lamb fashion." 

The size, fatness, condition, age, and sex are considered 
best in the order as follows : 

1. Spring (or house) lamb (ewe), from six weeks to three months old. 

2. Spring lamb (buck) " " " 

3. Wether lamb " " three months to eight months old. 

4. Ewe lamb 

5. Wether lamb, or yearling, eight months to twelve months old. 

6. Ewe lamb, " " " 

The spring lamb, occasionally called house lamb, espe- 
cially by some foreigners, it is presumed from the circum- 
stance of its being born during the winter months, when its 
tender life, if not carefully housed, fed, and kept warm, 
would perish, remain dwarfish, or become sickly. Its flesh 
is prized for its unseasonable character, and, although deli- 
cate and tender, is quite insipid and no way nourishing. 



74. THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

The old-country fashion of preparing house lambs was, 
many years ago : " As soon as the lambs are born they are 
put into a warm outhouse. Some white peas and bran are 
mixed together and placed near them, with a little fine hay 
and a chalk-stone to lick. The dams are turned into good 
grass, and brought to their lambs four times a day. Every 
lamb is suffered to suck as much as it will. By this process 
they become extremely delicate." But in this country it 
usually lacks the pleasant flavor that grass imparts to the 
flesh. 

Lamb occasionally is sold in our markets as early as the 
month of March ; after which it slowly increases in size and 
numbers, and in the months of June, July, and August it is 
in full season, and of fine quality. When first brought to 
market lamb is not sold in less quantity than a quarter, its 
weight being seldom above five or six pounds. As it in- 
creases in size by age, and amply fed by the grass-fed ewe 
— aided by the warm sun — the lamb speedily increases in 
weight, the quarters from eight to twelve pounds each. 
Later in the season, the animal with age and forced feed, 
the quarters will weigh as much as twenty-five pounds. 

To choose lamb, first examine the fat on the back and 
then that of the kidneys, both of which should be white, 
hard, and of the same color. Lambs are tender creatures. 
Kough handling, cold, stormy weather, kept without food, 
and being long driven, produce a feverish state, which 
causes the flesh and fat to be veiny and of a dark red color, 
and also renders it dry, tough, and tasteless. 

The kidney fat of a fine (or inferior) lamb should not 
be raised, stuffed, or blowed ; but merely its own caul or fat 
laid on its legs and flanks (see Fig.), to prevent them from 
drying or burning when roasting. Beware of two or three 
colors of fat found about the dressing of the hind-quarters, 
which in all probability is here appropriated from some 
other animal, which gives it a different flavor when cooked. 
This caution applies to all kinds of meat of blown or 
spongy appearance, this being frequently produced by hu- 



LAMB. 



75 



man breath. It is needless to observe that the breath of 
the human lungs (even from those of the most healthy and 
sweet condition), in this manner blown into meats, is neither 
calculated to add to its sweetness nor to render it palatable 
to delicately-educated people. 

The carcass of iamb is first split down the centre of 
the back and neck into two sides, which are quartered by 
leaving two or three ribs on the following 

HIND-QUABTER OP LAMB. 




When large enough, and it is desired by the purchaser to 
be cut or divided, the leg is first cut off and prepared for 
roasting, boiling, or cut into chops, etc. 



76 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 






The loin of lamb is usually cut into chops, or cracked 
for roasting, etc. 

The fore -quarter of lamb (see fore-quarter of mut- 
ton) is smaller than the same joint of mutton ; the bones 
are of a more reddish color. The fore-leg is broken off 
immediately above the joint of the foot, at the point where 
the fore-foot or hooflock joint is cut from the mutton, which 
connects with the white joint bone. Some call it lamb as 
long as the foot breaks off with the hand at this place ; 
this, however, often occurs in old sheep. 

Small old sheep, very poor and thin in flesh, are often 
dressed up " lamb fashion" by irresponsible butchers and 
others, who sell it under the name of lamb, and many years 
ago such was known as " Staten Island Lamb." This meat 
is usually sold at exceedingly low prices. 

By many the fore-quarter of lamb is preferred for the 
delicacy of the ribs and breast when roasted. Eemoving 
the blade-bone from the quarter greatly assists the carver. 
Separated from the shoulder, the neck and breast broiled 
make a choice dish. 

Other parts of the lamb are found noticed under another 
head. 



PIGS, HOGS, AND PORK. 

The young pig, termed " roasting-pig," is not changed in 
name, like the full-grown animal, by the fact of slaughter- 
ing. Living or dead, it is named a pig, a roaster, or a 
roasting-pig. When dressed for choice eating, it should 
not be less than three nor more than six weeks old. The 
skin of the roaster should be white (unless it has been a 
spotted or black-haired pig), plump, hard, and well cleaned. 
The flanks, where it is opened, should be thick and fat, and 
it ought to weigh from eight to fourteen pounds. Its season 
is best in the fall and. winter months. 

The half or full grown shoat, or hog, and its varieties, 



PIGS, HOGS, AND POKE. 77 

'when prepared for the stall, is changed to the name of 
ijvorh When living, and of different ages and sexes, they 
I are known by several distinct names : those under one year 
• are either called pigs, shoats, or porkers. If the female 
i within one year have pigs, she is known as a "young sow," 
and no longer by the name of shoat, etc. When spayed, 
ithe animal is then known as a "spayed sow." Above one 
;year, the male is named a "young boar;" when aged, an 
"old boar;" and, when altered, a "barrow," or "barrow- 
ihog," or "hog;" and, when altered late or aged, it is called 
a "stag-hog." The female is similarly named "sow," 
| sow-hog," or " hog." These terms are mostly applied to 
tthe living animals. 

Experience and information, in relation to the varieties 
i which will produce the best pork, may be placed in the fol- 
I lowing order. The first are those which are fed with corn : 

1 1. Barrow-pigs or shoats, from three months to one year old. 
, 2. Sow-pigs or shoats, from three months to six months old. 

3. Barrow-pigs, etc. (milk and grass fed), from three months to one year 

old. 

4. Sow-pigs, from three to four months old. 

' 5. Barrow-hogs and spayed sows, when found over one year old, corn-fed, 

selected usually for bacon-hogs. 
f 6. Sow-hogs, do., do., selected usually for bacon-hogs. 
,7. Stag-hog. 
■ 8. Boar-hog or boar — youngest best. 

The general appearance of the most choice pork is from 
( an animal the carcass of which will not weigh less than 
[ fifty and not more than one hundred and twenty pounds. 

The skin should present a semi-transparent appearance, 
: approaching white in color ; the fat on the back should not 
: be less than half an inch thick, white and firm, and the lean 
.of a pale reddish color, and sappy. The skin of the older 
i animals, or bacon-hogs, is thicker and coarser, while the 

lean is of a darker color, but equally sweet, juicy, and 

tender. 

Hogs selected for bacon, clear pork, hams, shoulders, 

back fat, or for salted or barrelling pork, are usually from 



78 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

one hundred and fifty to five hundred pounds in weight 
— some, indeed, have weighed above one thousand two 
hundred pounds. 

By many, fresh pork is considered to be exceedingly un- 
wholesome during the months of the year of high temper- 
ature. This, no doubt, to a great extent, is true : the fatty, 
gross character of the flesh not being easily assimilated 
when the animal economy of the human system requires 
less heating nourishment to the blood, and therefore re- 
quires less irritating food to the digestive organs. The in- 
stincts of experience no doubt lessen the demand for fresh 
pork during the heat of the summer trade. 

Animals procured from those who properly feed them 
(the food producing a great influence on the quality of the 
flesh) must prove good, sweet, and wholesome, although it 
may be soft ; but if the animals are allowed to run at large, 
which is generally the case with shoats and hogs in the 
spring and summer, eating whatever they can pick up — 
their uncleanly character is too well known, both as to 
habit and the filth or animal substances they select for 
food — there can be no doubt that pork, from such animals, 
offers unfit and unwholesome food. 

Shoats or hogs selected for slaughter, after they have 
been properly fed, are penned two or three months, first 
giving them swills, vegetables, or grain, which afterwards is 
increased in quality and quantity, such as Indian-corn, by 
which the character and quality of the flesh is much im- 
proved. The tenderness is also increased by the hanging 
of the carcass of the slaughtered animal for several days 
before being cut into the various pieces for use. 

The carcass of pork, being intended for immediate 
use while in its fresh state, is hung by the foot of its right 
hind leg ; then cut down, through the skin of the centre of 
the back, from the tail to the neck, followed with the split- 
ting down of the backbone through the line of the incision, 
dividing it into halves or sides. These are again divided, 
after taking off the head, into quarters. 



PIGS, HOGS, AND POEK. 
Shoat-Pokk. 



79 




1. Leg of pork. 

2. Loin of pork. ) often cut 

3. Chine of pork. J together. 

4. Brisket of pork. 



5. Flank of pork. 

6. Hocks. 

7. Pig's-head. 

8. Pig's feet. 



The hind-quarter (represented in the preceding 
figure, including Nos. 1, 2, and 5) is first divided by taking 
off the leg of pork, which is generally used fresh for roast- 
ing, after having the bone neatly taken out and finely 
scored ; but when intended for corning, it should be kept in 
pickle ten or twelve days before use. 

The loin of pork being left, if not too fat, presents 
the finest piece for roasting ; it should also be finely and 
evenly scored, as all pork ought to be when intended for 
roasting; the scoring should be a quarter of an inch in 
width, to prevent its blistering, and render the joint more 
readily carved. The loin also furnishes fine pork chops, and 
small delicate corning pieces. 

The fore-cj uarter of pork, if small, is often roasted 
whole, after having the blade-bone removed ; if large, it is 
divided across the ribs (see figure between 3 and 4), using 
the thin part, or brisket of pork, for corning, after taking 
off the hocks and feet. 

The chine of pork (figure 3) is used for roasting, or 
the ribs are used for rib-chops, up as far as the blade-bone, 
and the remaining part for pork-steaks. 

The carcass being very large and fat, and the lean por- 



80 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



tions intended to be used fresh, the two following figures 
(furnished me by the kindness of the American Agriculturist) 
will assist this explanation, in the cutting of it up. 

The figure 1 appears lying on a block or table. We must 




first separate the head from the carcass; then split (or 
saw, if frozen) the carcass through the back-bone with a 
chopper. Each side will then appear as represented by the 
figure on opposite page. This done, with a sharp knife 
loosen the leaf and kidney fat (near the letters N and K, 



PIGS, HOGS, AND PORK. 



81 



figure 2), and tear it away towards the leg, or fresh ham ; 
the kidney is brought away with it. Each side is then 
divided into its fore and hind quarters, by leaving two ribs 
on each of the latter. The next cut loosens the tenderloin 




from where it is connected with the fresh ham, when it is 
torn out upwards towards the ribs or head. The fresh 
hams are then removed, beginning at the tail-side, and cut 
circularly to the flank (figure 1, C), after sawing the small 
bone about half-way, and chopping or sawing off the feet 
(figure 1, I, I). 

Next, cut the brisket of pork off (see first figure, 
No. 4, p. 79), which is usually corned ; the chine piece turn 

6 



82 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



over, that the thick clear fat (fig. 2, O) can be easily cut off 
close to the lean. This fat is usually salted, and is known as 
back fat ; it is used for various purposes in cookery, and 
also by many butchers in the dressing of calves. Some- 
times a very thin slice will be observed on a fat-appearing 
loin of veal — this deceit is called plating, although, in fact, 
it may be considered an addition to the veal, by aiding its 
cooking and its flavor; it is usually done, however, with 
the intention of hiding the uncovered kidney of a poor 
young veal, which too often is not fit to be eaten. 




1. Leg, or fresh ham. 

2. Shoulder (after being trimmed). 

3. Chops or cheeks. 

4, 4. Loin-pieces. 

5, 5. Kib, or chine-pieces. 
6. Brisket. 



7. Flank. 

8. Tail-piece. 

9. Neck-piece. 

10. Pate or skull. 

11. Feet. 



The chine of pork, without the back fat, is much 
used for chops, steaks, or roasting : while some prefer this 
part (after taking out all the bones) for sausage-meat. 

The back-fat, on the loin, is also taken off in the same 
manner, when the loin is prepared for either chops or roast- 
ing. 

This kind of pork is now usually preferred, instead of the 
small quarters, or that which has the skin usually left on 
it ; the flesh being considered more luscious from having 
been better fed and cared for, while it is leaner and thicker. 



PIGS, HOGS, AND POEK 83 

The hog intended for bacon is always large and fat, es- 
pecially that intended for English and " Irish-singed bacon ;" 
these, however, will be found noticed under the proper head 
of bacon. 

The figure of the hog on the preceding page represents 
by the numbers the mode of cutting the carcass for barrel- 
ing. 

The same mode of cutting is adapted by separating the 
head from the carcass, then splitting the carcass, cutting off 
the fresh hams and feet, tearing out the leaf and kidney fat, 
taking out the tenderloin — as previously shown. Then the 
head (Nos. 10 and 3) is divided by cutting, off the cheeks, 
beginning from the corner of the mouth, following the line 
towards No. 9 (see fig. 1, A B,) and saw off the jaw-bone, 
which separates the cheeks from the pate ; then crack the 
bone of the under jaw, between the front teeth, and the 
cheeks are held together to hang up by. Next take off the 
shoulder by cutting straight across the side, as shown fig. 1 
(B) ; then trim off the spare-ribs, by cutting under the 
breast-bone, and so follow the ribs as far as the chine-bone, 
when the knife is continued on directly to the end of the 
long bones in the back, which leaves the shoulder about one 
thickness, and the spare-ribs (not too spare), with meat 
enough left on under tKem to make a roast. Then trim 
the shoulder round (see No. 2), saw off the feet, which 
forms the shoulder similar to a ham. The brisket and 
flanks are' now cut off ; the ribs (5, 5) and loin (4, 4) pieces 
are cut in suitable sizes, when all are ready to salt, except 
that the trimmings and some other pieces can be used for 
sausages. The leaf-fat and pieces of fat, rendered into 
lard ; and the pate, etc. for head-cheese. 

The perk tenderloins, when cut out of pork, are 
usually sold separately at a higher price than the other 
parts. Their ordinary weight is from half to one pound 
each. Many consider them the choicest part of the pork ; 
but, as already observed, they are usually found tender, but 
dry and tasteless. 



84 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

ifleasly pork.— The flesh of the hog, with this dis- 
ease, when slaughtered, is exceedingly unwholesome, and is 
not fit to be used for any purpose. It may be known by 
the many yellowish lumps or kernels seen through the fat 
and lean, as well as the flesh having a heavy, dull appear- 
ance. 

GOAT'S FLESH. 

These animals are sometimes found in our markets 
dressed for sale, but their flesh is considered inferior to 
that of mutton. Although that from a young wether goat 
or kid is very tender and sweet, but has not so agreeable a 
flavor as mutton or lamb, nor is it so easily digested — the 
flavor partaking the character of venison. 

A very fine, fat goat, killed after the fashion of the Jews, 
by Bernheim & Sons, Jefferson Market, May 9, 1856, 
weighed, when alive, ninety-six pounds, and after being 
dressed, including the head and haslet, weighed sixty-four 
pounds, exclusive of sixteen pounds of rough fat. 

The flesh had much the appearance of stag or ram 
mutton, the fat being of a reddish color, soft and oily ; the 
lean was dark in color, but juicy and tender. Those who 
partook of it were well satisfied, though no doubt the flavor 

Note. — Some curious market laws of the Island of Antigua, West India 
Islands, are found noticed in the New Haven Gazette, October 26, 1786, 
which parts of, refer to the pig and hog. . One of which says : 

" Be it enacted, that all choate (pigs) exceeding nine pounds a quarter, be 
esteemed hog, and so sold, and that no flesh be esteemed veal, except the 
clerk of the market really approve it as such. 

" And, whereas, the office of clerk of the market is very troublesome and 
of small advantage ; be it therefore enacted, that the offices of " common 
crier,' and ' common whipper,' in the respective towns of this island, be 
added thereto, with all the fees, perquisites, and advantages belonging, or 
which shall belong to the same. 

" And be it enacted, for the encouragement of poor people, who for the 
most part do raise stock to supply the markets of this island, all rumps, 
sirloins, and buttocks of beef, be esteemed choice pieces, and sold at eight 
pence per pound." 



THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 85 

would have been much improved had a few days longer 
keeping of the carcass been allowed by the Jewish laws — 
the Jews not being permitted to eat flesh killed over three 
days, without it goes through a cleansing process by a 
shoket, or unless none other is to be had. 



THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC 
ANIMALS. 

There are many choice dishes prepared from various parts 
of the domestic animals used for food, which in former times 
were either sold for a mere trifle or thrown away. The in- 
crease of domestic animals has, by no means, been pro-rata 
with the rapid and vast increase of our population, hence 
prices have increased to double what they were in the 
" olden time ," the consequence of which is, we find, a grad- 
ual increased demand for such portions of the animal as 
were once altogether refused, or considered unfit to be 
eaten, or too troublesome to repay for the time consumed 
in preparing them into proper food. These considerations 
— of high prices, professional cooks, or " artists" — with 
cookery books and foreign cookery notions, have introduced 
a system of knowledge as to the preparation of excellent 
and cheap dishes from the various and numerous parts of 
the domestic animals. 

In presenting these remarks to notice, I ask attention 
particularly to the choosing and judging which are the best, 
with the general uses of the different parts which follow, 
commencing with those taken from 

NEAT CATTLE. 

Beeves' tongue. This part of the animal has always 
been considered a delicacy. When purchasing, choose 
those which are thick, firm, and with plenty of fat on the 
i under side. They are used, when fresh, for mince pies, 
stews, etc., and, when pickled or smoked, for boiling, and, 



86 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

when cold, are excellent eating. In the living animal's 
mouth, the tongue is very rough, being almost a compact 
bed of spines, which nature has furnished to draw the grass 
or other food into the mouth, as well as to scratch or lick 
its body ; these spines, however, come off of the tongue with 
the skin when boiled. 

Beeves' liver. The best liver presents a clear, bright, 
yellowish-red color, although that which is of a clear, dark 
color is good ; and mashing easily under the pressure of the 
finger, is a sure sign of tenderness. But those affected with 
dark, " sedgy" streaks, sandy spots and abscesses, are un- 
wholesome and unfit to be eaten. These are known as 
"sedgy livers," which, no doubt, is caused by the animal 
drinking from the Western pools of water and swallowing a 
small leech, or bloodsucker, as boys used to call them. T 
have frequently taken them from the liver in a perfect state, 
and again, on an examination, I have found these leeches 
filled with blood, and a gritty substance like sand ; others, 
again, present their contents as if in a dissolving condition, 
which we find in darkish streaks scattered through the sub- 
stance of the liver. When in the course of the natural heal- 
ing of these parts, we find numerous sinewy, tough, light 
streaks, or scars, through them, which would always remain, 
like the healing up of an old sore. 

Thirty or forty years ago, almost all our Western cattle 
would have these bad livers, when they were compelled to 
be driven on foot through to our (New York) city ; but since 
the rail-cars, steamboats, etc., have carried them, we do not 
so often find bad livers. 

A remarkably fine, large liver was sold in Jefferson Mar- 
ket, in December, 1860, taken from a small, Kentucky heifer. 
It was very yellow, tender, and fine, and weighed twenty- 
eight and one-half pounds. The cause of this being so large 
— from so small an animal — was conjectured to be, that 
the animal had been fed upon hot or cooked food, and kept 
in a very warm place. The distillery, or " swill-fed" cows 
generally have large, handsome livers, but not well-flavored. 



THE PAETS WE USE FEOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 87 

Beeves' heart. Those with a large quantity of nice, 
clear fat around the top part are the best. They are usually 
stuffed and roasted, or stewed, and make a good, wholesome, 
and nutritious meal, and one of the cheapest in the animal. 

Beeves 5 kidney. There are two kidneys in each ani- 
mal ; the best are without dark spots, or water bladders, 
but of a clear, dark, reddish color. Used for stewing, broil- 
ing, etc. 

Beeves 5 suet. This untried fat is taken from around 
the kidney, and is much drier, shorter, more tender, and 
firmer than the common meat or flesh fat. It should also 
be white, clear (not bloody), and easily break or crumble 
into very small pieces ; it is much used in mince pies, pud- 
dings, candles, etc. 

Beeves' gilt fat is much like suet, but has more fibre 
through it. The Jews use this in cooking in the place of 
lard, which, by their laws, they discard ; but it must be from 
animals slaughtered and regularly sealed by their slioket, or 
Jew butcher. 

Some people imagine that beeves' fat or suet is the same 
as tallow, and I once read of a case where a tallow-chandler 
by the name of Webb charged a prisoner with stealing his 
tallow (instead of fat). The prisoner having no counsel, the 
judge became his* advocate, and asked the prosecutor : 

Judge. — " How do you know, Webb, that you lost just 
eighty-nine pounds of tallow?" 

Webb. — " I am sure of it, my lord." 

Judge. — " I want to be sure of it, too. Do you keep an 
account of what you receive or what you use ?" 

Webb.— "No, my lord." 

Judge. — " What, no book in which you minute down your 
goods ?" 

Webb. — " Yes, my lord, I keep a day-book." 

Judge. — " Well, that is what I wanted : and did you, in 
this book, make an entry of the tallow received, or taken 
from it, for the purpose of making candles ?" 

Webb. — " No, my lord, for it was not fit to make candles of." 



88 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Judge. — " Why, then, man, it was not tallow." 

Webb. — " Yes it was, my lord." 

Judge. — " Then why not fit to make candles ? 2 ' 

Webb. — " Because, my lord, it was not run into tallow." 

Judge. — " Not run into tallow ?" 

Webb.— "No, my lord." 

Judge. — " Why, then, it must be fat, and not tallow?' 

Webb. — " Yes, my lord." 

Judge. — "Ah ! that's very well. Gentlemen of the Jury : 
You find, by the prosecutor's own evidence, that you must 
acquit the prisoner. This man charges the prisoner with 
stealing talloio. The prosecutor is a tallow-chandler, and 
yet you hear from his own mouth that he does not know the 
difference between tallow and fat." 

The prisoner was acquitted. 

Beeves' or cows' udder. An udder from a young, 
dry cow, when nicely corned and boiled, is very good eating. 
Some parboil and roast it. 

Beeves' head. From the sides of the head the ox- 
cheek is cut, which makes an excellent soup : or, the head is 
broken or cracked with an axe, the brains taken out and then 
boiled, so that the meat can be taken off easily from the 
bones. For making mince pies, meat puddings, etc. 

The Germans cut off the nose, and prepare a dish called 
ox mow. It is sawed off through the nostril bones, leaving 
on the grisly skin, then boiled until all the bones can be re- 
moved easily, when it is usually fried or soused, etc. Said 
to be good eating. 

Beeves' or ox marrow is taken from the marrow 
bones, principally from the hind-quarter. It should smell 
sweet, look clear, and be of quite a straw-color. Sold by 
the pound, and used for pomatums and cookery. 

Marrow bones. These are cut from three to five 
inches long, and, when for the table, should be quite fresh. 
Either for roasting or boiled, after being covered with a 
floured cloth ; to be used on toast instead of butter, etc. 

Trijjie. This article of food is always found cleaned, 



THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 89 

and generally boiled ready for use. In selecting tripe, 
choose that which is white, thick, and fat. Many prefer the 
part called the night-cap or honeycomb ; others again the 
thick seam ; and some again the thin part. In the spring 
and summer seasons it is apt to have a greenish look on 
the inner side, in consequence of the animal feeding on 
grass. However, when dark and quite thin, it is either from 
eating or drinking distillery swill, or is from an animal dis- 
eased, and becomes dangerous food. 

I>x tails. The word ox is more particularly used with 
this article. These are seldom found ready for sale, but 
when ordered are furnished by the " help." They are gen- 
erally sold attached to the hides. An excellent and savory 
soup is made from them. Three tails will make a common 
tureen of soup. Prior to 1685 the butchers of London, in 
disposing of the bullocks' hides to the felt-mongers, were 
accustomed to leave on the tails. The French refugees, 
however, bought them up, and introduced into use that nu- 
tritive dish called " ox-tail soup." 

Sweet breads and skirts. These were known many 
years ago by many of the poor inhabitants near slaughter- 
houses. They consisted of two strips of thin, skinny meat 
attached to the ribs and plate-pieces. These were cut out, 
and, with the (coarse) sweet-breads (more particularly no- 
ticed under the head of " Sweet-Breads from Calves"), were 
tied in a bunch with a rope-yarn, and generally sold from 
the slaughter-houses. These were a part of the perquisites 
given to apprentice boys above twenty years ago ; but since 
that time the perquisite system has been changed, and in 
lieu more wages are paid. 

Beeves' palates. These palates, which lay at the 
roof of the mouth, I have lately learned through " one of 
the great generals of the age" (Scott), who had enjoyed 
the eating of them prepared at the South, and who pro- 
nounced them excellent eating. 

Ox feet, ©r c©w fieels. These are principally used 
by foreigners in making fricassee, stews, bake, jellies, etc., 



90 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

after having been scalded and dressed as the calves' feet. 
They require five or six hours' boiling. The fat skimmings 
of ox feet or cow heels is called " neat's foot oil." 

Beeves 5 drains. These are used- in many of the 
dishes, as those prepared from calves' or sheep's brains, 
but are not so delicate. 

Beeves' or ox gall. These greenish bladders, or the 
contents, are used for various purposes, such as cleaning 
cloths, carpets, removing oil-stains, for liniments, salves, and 
also the mixing of paints. Buy it in the original bladder ; 
and that which is quite thick, of a darkish green, and feels 
like glue, is the oldest and best. "When scarce and in de- 
mand, some boys, to enlarge their perquisites as well as the 
size of the gall, adopt the plan of a dishonest milkman. 

Ox eye§. These are called for sometimes by the medi- 
cal student for examination and study ; and I have known 
them to have been prepared in sauces for the table. 

Ox or c©ws' teeth. Thirty years ago the teeth from 
an old ox or cow, when about half worn out, were used by 
dentists. In that state they are tough and solid. Many a 
set, cut off with a small piece of the jaw, have I sold for 
twenty-five and fifty cents, within the above time, to one 
whose reputation has always stood at the head of his pro- 
fession (Dr. Eleazer Parmly), then residing at No. 11 Park 
Place, mineral teeth being then unknown. 

Beeves' casiiis. When the animal is slaughtered the 
small gut is stripped for the sausage-maker. They clean 
and prepare them, when they are then known as beeves' 
casins. Those from lambs and hogs are also used. An- 
other part is called bung-gut, the largest portion and an 
end of the larger intestines, which is generally used, when 
cleaned, for head-cheese. 

Cattle's ieet. These are usually sold by the butchers 
for one year (from " new-year" to " new-year" again). The 
present price (1858) is about six dollars per hundred feet. 
Their principal use is in making glue, and the bones and 
hoofs are afterwards used in making buttons and Prussian 



THE PAKTS WE USE FKOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 91 

blue. Mr. Peter Cooper is the heaviest purchaser for the 
last forty years, and has them gathered daily from the 
slaughter-houses in our city. 

Hoaaes. Those which are daily collected by being taken 
from the various parts of the different animals when cut up, 
and from " cracking" or taking off shanks. Blade, socket, 
chine, and other bones, are collected together and sold, 
usually by the boys (as a perquisite), to the bone-gatherers 
at about forty cents per bushel. Some of them are used 
by the turners for handles, buttons — some for bone-black, 
etc., after they have been well boiled, that the marrow and 
fat may all be extracted. 

Fbom Calves. 

Sweet breads. These, no doubt, are the greatest 
delicacy of the meat kind. There are but two in a calf, one 
from the neck or throat, called " throat sweet-bread ;" the 
other from or near the heart, which is known as the " heart 
sweet-bread." The largest are the best, and the latter, or 
heart sweet-bread, the most delicate. Their color should 
be clear, and a shade darker than the fat of the same 
animal. 

Calves' lieads. These are usually found with hair 
scalded and shaved cleanly off, and, when fresh, the eyes 
have a bright, full look, while the skin seems firmly fast- 
ened to the head. There should also be a prominent rise 
or appearance of the young horn, to denote that the ani- 
mal was old enough. If the head should be small and no 
signs of horns, it shows that the animal was too young to 
be wholesome food. Never purchase either calves' head or 
feet if they have a yellowish look, or a slippery or slimy 
feeling. The nose (yours) will detect a bad smell in the 
brains, more particularly when the head is cracked or split 
open. The head makes the mock-turtle soup, or a plain 
boil, etc. The head is sometimes found skinned, when it is 
not so valuable, or only fit for a plain soup or boil, etc. 



92 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

Calves' feet. — Although these and the preceding are 
usually sold together, yet their uses are generally different. 
Very small feet are not generally good, in consequence of 
the risk that they are from too young a calf. Their uses 
are principally for the excellent jelly, or they are cooked in 
with the head. 

Calves' tongues are sometimes taken out and used 
separately for stewing, or salted, boiled, pickled, etc. 

Calves' brains. — With some preparation, very nice, 
delicate sauces and other dishes are made, but it requires 
the skill of a cook. They are taken out when the calf's 
head is cracked open. 

Calves' eyes are also used separately by many for- 
eigners, in sauces, etc. 

Calves' haslet. — This comprises the heart, liver, and 
lights (sometimes also the melt), connected together ; but 
when separated they appear with the names of calves' liver, 
calves' heart, and calves' lights. This liver is the best of 
all the animal livers, and I do not except the famous pate de 
fois or goose liver. Both the heart and liver are used for 
frying, boiling, roasting, etc., but when for a hash, the lights 
can be used. 

Calves' kidneys. — These are usually found in the loins 
of veal, but are sometimes taken out and sold separately. 
They are the best of all kidneys. 

Calves' entrails and fat or chitterlings. — This 
part of the calf, prepared by the Germans and French, is 
made into an excellent dish, which I have eaten with a good 
relish. They are taken from the calf while warm, then the 
entire gut is slit or cut open, well cleaned and soaked, and 
they are ready for use. 

Calves' melt. — This small, dark piece, attached to the 
lights, is seldom used in this country, but it is said to make 
a very good dish when prepared by the English cook. I 
give one receipt for cooking it : After soaking three or four 
hours in a little salt and water, and also a little vinegar, 
wipe dry, pepper it well, and boil it. 



THE PAETS WE USE FEOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 93 



EKOM SHEEP AND LAMBS. 

Lauibs' frys and sweet-breads are generally found 
in our markets in the spring and summer months, on dishes, 
nicely cleaned, and prepared ready for use. Some sprinkle 
a little parsley to decorate them. They are considered, and 
certainly are, delicious eating, known as mountain oysters. 

Lambs' and sheep's tongues. — These can be had, 
fresh or salted, from the boys, being one of their perquisites, 
They generally want some trimming before they are reac' 
for use. These small pickled tongues are an excellent lunc 
when nicely prepared. The best are from the lambs. 

Lambs' and sheep's haslet, or pluck — These con- 
sist of the heart, liver, and lights of the lamb or sheep. 
Sold at low prices. The lamb's haslet is better flavored, 
more tender, and not so dry eating as the sheep's. In some 
parts of England the name pluck designates only the lights, 
or lungs, and thirty years ago it was a common name for 
all haslets in New York. 

Lambs' and sheep's kidneys* — A great many kid- 
neys are taken out of the loin suet, and are sold and used 
separately. The French are particularly fond of them. 
Used for stews, broils, etc. Those from lambs are the best. 

Lambs' and sheep's heads. — Many foreigners use 
them, after having the brains and tongue taken out, the 
wool or hair singed or shaved off, which leaves a considera- 
ble quantity of flesh on the head. They make an excellent 
! broth, for a very small sum and little trouble. The " Tup's 
I Head Dinner," about Michaelmas, was once held in high 
repute. 

Lambs' and sheep's brains and eyes. — The brains 
are the most called for, and are used in sauces and other 
delicate dishes. ' The eyes are sometimes used with them : 
occasionally they are used for study by the student. 

Sheep's suet. — A great deal of this suet is used in 
making salves for chapped hands, etc. 



94 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Lamps' or sheep's trotters. — Prepared like calves' 
feet, then soaked in water until quite white, when they are 
ready for use. They are best stewed. 

Lambs' or sheep's melt. — Prepared in the same 
manner as the calves' melt, but not quite so good eating. 

Lambs' grits or easing are cleaned and prepared by 
the sausage-makers to fill for sausages. Those that you 
find of the small size are the caseins from the lambs. The 
sheep caseins cannot be used here for that purpose ; but I 
im informed by Professor Thurber that they are used in 

mth America : after having been cleaned they are rolled 

p into a ball and roasted in the earth, and he found them 
ood eating. 

Sheep's paunch, or stomach. — An excellent dish is 
made of this article by the Scotch, called " Scotch haggis." 
The following was furnished to me by Mrs. John Duncan : 

" Procure the large stomach-bag (paunch) of a sheep, also 
one of the smaller bags, called the king's hood, together with 
the pluck, which is the lights, the liver, and the heart. 

" The bags must be well washed, first in cold water, then 
plunged in boiling water, and scraped. Great care must be 
taken of the large bag ; let it lie and soak in cold water, 
with a little salt, all night. Wash also the pluck. You will 
now boil the small bag along with the pluck; in boiling 
leave the windpipe attached, and let the end of it hang over 
the edge of the pot, so that impurities may pass freely out. 
Boil for an hour and a half, and take the whole from the 
pot. When cold, cut away the windpipe, and any bits of 
skin or gristle that seem improper. Grate the quarter of 
the liver (not using the remainder of the haggis), and mince 
the heart, lights, and small bag very small, along with half 
a pound of beef suet. Mix all this mince with two small 
teacupfuls of oatmeal — previously dried before the fire — 
black and Jamaica pepper and salt ; also add half a pint of 
the liquor in which the pluck was boiled, or beef gravy. 
Stir all together into a consistency. Then take the large 
bag, which has been thoroughly cleaned, and put the mince 



THE PARTS WE USE FKOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 95 

into it. Fill it only a little more than half full, in order to 
leave room for the meal and meat to expand. If crammed 
too full it will burst in boiling. Sew up the bag with a 
needle and thread. The haggis is now complete. Put it in 
a pot with boiling water, and prick it occasionally with a 
large needle, as it swells, to allow the air to escape. If the 
bag appears thin, tie a cloth outside the skin. There should 
be a plate placed beneath it to prevent its sticking to the 
bottom of the pot. Boil it for three hours. It is served on 
a dish without garnish, and requires no gravy, as it is suffi- 
ciently rich in itself." 

Another way. Procure a good thick sheep's paunch, with- 
out holes or thin parts, and have it well cleaned. Clean a 
sheep's pluck, or haslet, thoroughly, make incisions in the 
heart and liver to allow the blood to flow out, and parboil the 
whole, letting the windpipe lie over the side of the pot to 
permit the phlegm and blood to disgorge from the lungs : 
the water may be changed after a few minutes' boiling for 
fresh water. A half hour's boiling will be sufficient ; but 
throw back the half of the liver, to boil until it will grate 
easily ; take the heart, the half of the liver, and part of the 
lights, trimming away all skins and black-looking parts, and 
mince them together. Mince also a pound of good beef suet, 
and four or more onions. Grate the other half of the liver. 
Half a dozen of small onions, peeled and scalded in two 
waters, to mix with this mince. Have ready some finely- 
ground oatmeal, toasted slowly before the fire for four hours, 
till it is of a light brown color and perfectly dry. Less than 
two teacupfuls of meal will do for this quantity of meat. 
Spread the mince on a board and strew the meal lightly 
over it, with a high seasoning of pepper, salt, and a little 
cayenne, first well mixed. Put in tho meat with a half-pint 
of good beef gravy, or as much strong broth as will make it 
a very thick stew. Be careful not to fill the bag too full, 
but allow the meat room to swell ; add the juice of a lemon, 
or a little good vinegar ; press out the air and sew up the 
bag ; prick it with a large needle when it first swells in the 



96 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

pot, to prevent bursting ; let it boil slowly for three hours, 
if large. 

FROM SHOATS AND HOGS. 

Pig's head and tongue are applied to many uses. 
Some are sold either fresh for roasting, head-cheese, etc., 
or corned, for a plain boil; others have their chops or 
cheeks taken off, salted and smoked, with or without the 
tongue and the balance. 

Pig's pate, or skull, is either made into head-cheese, 
fresh, or plain boiled when corned and salted, after having 
been properly cracked and cleansed. 

Pig's tongue. — This is excellent eating when prepared, 
as the sheep's tongue. There are a few persons who use 
them fresh. 

Pig's hocks. — The top part of the fore-leg, from the 
knee up to the shoulder, is usually called the hock. In very 
small animals the foot is left with it, and sold together as 
pig's feet. The hocks are generally corned or salted for 
boiling, etc. 

Pig's ears are sometimes used for a boil or souse, or 
put in head-cheese. 

Pig's feet. — A great many are sold in the fresh state, 
for stewing, boiling, or sousing, but are usually preferred 
corned for the latter purpose or a plain boil. They should 
be well cleaned of hair, and the hoofs taken off. 

Pig's kidneys. — Yery good dishes are made from 
these kidneys, especially from the shoats, either stewed, 
fricasseed, fried, or broiled. 

Pig's haslets. — These are seldom found in our mar- 
kets. They are generally sold at the slaughter-houses, or 
made into meat-puddings, etc. This is one of the poorest 
domestic animal's haslets or livers. 

ILeaf-fat, or leaf-lard. — The fat taken from the in- 
side, which adheres to the ribs and belly, is called leaf- 
fat. In this untried state it is used for many purposes in 
cookery. 



THE PAETS WE USE FKOM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 97 



MEATS USED AS COENED, SALTED, SMOKED, AND OTHEEWISE 
PEEPAEED, ETC. 

There are so many different ways of corning, salting, or 
curing, and other preparations of meat, that a person might 
question all those they may meet engaged in it — " How do 
you cure or prepare (certain) meats ? Their answers would 
seldom be two alike ; and each would recommend his re- 
ceipt as the best. Many have also a little variation in the 
manner of cutting irp the various animals in their different 
joints, and also in the preparation of their flesh. 

Some of the Western packers use nearly the whole animal 
to " barrel." Some, again, put certain of the choice pieces 
together, and the other qualities divided, making sometimes 
three or four grades, with names to correspond. But our 
public-market butchers, and those who deal in prepared 
meats, select certain pieces from the various animals for 
their different and numerous uses, some of which I have 
noticed elsewhere. 

Time for salting meat. — Meat should be salted in 
cool weather, as soon as it shall stiffen or become rigid. If 
in warm or hot weather, the animal should be killed in the 
afternoon, and the next morning salted, and placed in an 
ice-house. If in freezing weather, it should be salted be- 
fore freezing, as I have known frozen beef to lay in strong 
pickle two weeks, and then salted only on the surface — the 
inside being still frozen and fresh. 

Corned and salted toeef — The pieces generally used 
for this purpose are the plate, navel, brisket, top of sirloin, 
etc., which have the fat mixed through them. Many, how- 
ever, prefer the rumps, sockets (or face-rump), edge-bones, 
and rounds, on account of their leanness and the delicacy 
of the outside fat. The kernels, or pope's-eye, in the 
rounds (centre-fat), flanks, necks, and shoulder-clods, if to 
be corned or salted, or even kept for any length of time, 
should be extracted, as it is the first part or thing to spoil. 



98 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

Jerked heef. — This name was early given to the fol- 
lowing process of curing beef : first, all the bones are taken 
out; then the flesh is cut into sheets, or thin pieces, put 
into a strong pickle, or rubbed with dry salt, and packed 
away for two or three days, when it is thoroughly salted ; / 
then spread out in the sun to dry hard, gathered together, 
and dry packed in boxes of two and three hundred pounds 
each, and generally sent to some of the West India islands. 

About the year 1825, there were large quantities put up 
in this city, made from all the low-priced fleshy animals, 
such as bulls, stags, and any coarse, thin cattle that had the 
least flesh on their bones, with sometimes the coarse parts 
of other beef-cattle. I recollect one instance, about this 
time, of having to assist in slaughtering one hundred bulls, 
that were bought and sent in one drove to my employer for 
this purpose. It was the principal source of disposing of 
*ne poor, often diseased, and the unmarketable fleshy cattle, 
the flesh of which could not be sold in pur public markets, 
in consequence of the stringency of the market laws. The 
making of jerked beef, in large quantities, continued until 
about fifteen years ago (1840), when I believe it failed to 
be profitable. 

Corned mutton. — The legs, chine, and shoulders, are 
sometimes corned, and are excellent eating when boiled. 

Corned and salted pork. — For family use, the car- 
cass is cut up for salting, or parts are reserved fresh for 
sausages, steaks, etc. For market purposes, the loin and 
chine, or shoulder and ribs, of shoats are usually kept fresh, 
and the legs, brisket, and flanks for the above purpose ; if 
the animal is quite small, the loins and chine are also used. 
If the hogs are large and fat, the back-fat is taken off clear 
and salted; when cured it is used for various purposes. 
When the rib-bones are taken out of the thick side-pork, it 
is generally called " clear pork ;" this is also corned or 
salted. The brisket of pork is usually the part which takes 
in the leg-half of the shoulder. The brisket and flank to- 
gether are an excellent piece when corned. 



THE PAETS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 99 

€a^red and smoked meats. — In beef, three pieces 
are taken from .the buttock (for particulars see buttock) — the 
inside, outside, and veiny pieces. These are generally used 
for smoking after having been salted from three to four 
weeks. The plates, navels, briskets, and tongues (see 
tongues), are also excellent, when prepared in the above 
manner, to boil with greens. 

In mutton, the legs are sometimes cured and smoked, but 
seldom thus prepared in our cities, as the demand for these 
parts is greater than for any others. 

In pork : the hams, bacon, shoulders, chops or cheeks ; 
and the prepared meats — bologna and smoked sausages, 
etc. The best hams, whether corned or cured and smoked, 
are from eight to -fourteen pounds weight, having a thin 
skin, fat solid (white, if corned), and a small, short, 
tapering leg or shank. Try with a skewer (if buying 
of a stranger), running from the flesh-side towards the 
shank; the skewer, when drawn, should smell sweet and 
agreeable. 

Bacon. — The .part of the shoat or hog commonly used 
here for bacon is the thin part of the ribs and belly, salted, 
and either dried or slightly smoked; some also use spices, 
sugar, etc. If it be not too thick and fat, it is generally 
preferred. The regular bacon of England, however, is dif- 
ferently prepared ; and there it is usually called " flitch of 
bacon," when cured in the following manner. The hog 
having been slaughtered, instead of scalding the hair off, it 
is burned off with straw, then shaven clean with cold water, 
and dressed. When cooled through, it is divided, the hams 
and head taken off, and the bloody veins carefully removed. 
The spare-ribs and other bones are then taken out, and the 
whole covered with fine salt and a small quantity of salt- 
petre, with also a little brown sugar, which gives a pleasant 
flavor to the bacon. The flitches are laid down upon one 
another and re-salted daily, when the top one is put under, 
for about three weeks. They are then hung up to dry, or 
very slightly and slowly smoked. The Irish singed bacon 



100 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

is cured here, by some of our large packers, in pretty much 
the same manner. 

A curious custom originated at a very early period, of 
presenting a flitch of bacon to all married couples upon 
certain conditions, which are fully explained in the follow- 
ing. The New York Gazette and Post Boy, September 30, 
1751, shows that, " On the 20th of last month (June), John 
Shakeshanks, wool-comber, and Anne his wife, of the parish 
of Weathersfield, in Essex, appeared at the customary 
court of the manor of Dunmow-park, in that county, and 
claimed the bacon, according to the custom of that manor, 
which was delivered to them with the usual formalities — 
this is the only claim that has been made since the year 
1701." 

" The famous old story is as follows, viz. : one Robert 
Fitzwalter, a powerful baron in this country, in the reign of 
Henry III., instituted a custom in the priory there, that, 
' Whatever married man did not repent of being married, 
or differ and dispute with his wife, within a year and a day 
after his marriage, if he and his wife would swear to the 
truth of it, kneeling upon two stones in the priory church- 
yard, set up for that purpose, in presence of the prior and 
convent, should have a gammon of bacon.' This custom is 
still kept up, notwithstanding the dissolution of the monas- 
teries, only instead of the prior and convent, the business 
is now transacted at a court-baron, held before the steward 
of the lord of the manor. It may be some amusement to 
our readers to see the words of the oath on this occasion, 
which are to the following purpose, viz. : 

" You do swear by custom of confession, 
That you ne'er made nuptial transgression ; 
Nor since you were married man and wife, 
By household brawls, or contentious strife, 
Or otherwise, in bed or at board, 
Offended each other in deed or in word ; 
Or in a twelvemonth's time and a day, 
Repented not in thought any way ; 
Or since the church-clerk said Amen, 



THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 101 

Wished yourselves unmarried again, 

But continue true, and in desire, 

As when you joined hands in holy choir." 

The sentence pronounced for their receiving the bacon is 
in words to the effect following, viz. : 

" Since to the conditions, without any fear, 
Of your own accord you do freely swear, 
A whole gammon of bacon you do receive, 
And bear it away with love and good leave, 
Kor this is the custom of Dunmow well-known ; 
Tho' the pleasure be ours, the bacon's your own." 

Then, twenty-six years afterwards, the New York Journal, 
of 1767, notices the flitch of bacon claimed again. Among 
the London news, dated June 9th, was — " A certain Irish 
nobleman and his lady went last Thursday to Dunmow, in 
Essex, in order to claim the flitch of bacon, which, accord- 
ing to the custom of the manor, is given to those who swear 
that they repented not of their marriage within a year and 
a day after the celebration thereof. This is the first time 
that persons of their rank have laid claim to it." The same 
paper, a few years after — " We have an account from Dun- 
mow, in Essex, that there were computed to be five thou- 
sand people there from all parts to see the ceremony of de- 
livering the bacon to the couple who had not repented of 
their marriage. The man was examined by a jury of men, 
and the woman by a jury of women : she declared that she 
never repented but once, and that was, that she had not 
married sooner. We have it from undoubted authority that 
the happy couple made upwards of fifty pounds by selling 
slices of it to several gentlemen and ladies present, who 
were whimsically merry on the occasion." 

Shoulders. — The same process of curing hams will also 
apply to shoulders ; and when purchasing either — in a cured 
state — should they have a white or dried salt appearance over 
them, you may conclude they will be very salt, and of course 
a great deal of the sweetness extracted by having been kept 



102 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

in a strong, harsh pickle a long time ; or they have been 
cured by those who do not understand the business. To be 
good, they should be bright, clean, and firm. 

Cheeks or Chops. — These are cured with the hams 
and shoulders, and are very fine when boiled with greens in 
the spring of the year. Select those which have the most 
flesh on. 

Bologna Sausages. — There are many receipts for 
making these fine sausages, of which there appears to be 
two different kinds — the fresh bologna and dried bologna 



Fresh bologna sausages are prepared usually for immedi- 
ate use. They are sometimes made of fresh lean beef and 
pork, having all the fat and sinews extracted and finely 
chopped ; after which, thin strips of cured back fat are 
interspersed through, and nicely seasoned. This is forced 
into cleansed beef casins of different lengths. Smoked 
(say one night), and boiled, or rather simmered, from one 
to two hours. When pork is high it is sometimes left out, 
but retaining the back fat to relieve the lean look, and also 
to add to their flavor. The other kind, 

Dried bologna sausages, are made for long keeping. They 
are prepared with salt pork or ham, with the lean fresh beef, 
and more highly seasoned ; instead of being smoked, they 
are hung up and dried. But otherwise prepared as the 
fresh bolognas. 

Bolliches (from the Dutch word roUetje). — This pecu- 
liar meat preparation was once a famous dish among the 
ancient Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam, and although 
the making of it has almost been discontinued in our (New 
York) State, yet there are many old families in New Jersey 
and other places, who continue on from year to year, in 
preparing this as one of their principal dishes, to be used 
throughout the winter months, especially where fresh meat- 
is only occasionally to be procured. It is found to be a 
wholesome article of food when properly prepared, and for 
the following receipt I am indebted to Mrs. Ann Hill, who 



THE PAKTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 103 

has prepared and assisted in its preparation for about 
twenty years. She says : " Take the fresh, uncooked, but 
well-cleaned tripe, cut it into eight or ten as near square 
pieces as possible ; then cut up the flanks and tops of sir- 
loin pieces of beef, in strips, about as large as a good-sized 
finger, and lay them so as fat and lean will mix throughout, 
and enough to fill each piece of the tripe ; pepper and salt 
should be well sprinkled between each layer of meat (some 
also add herbs to give peculiar flavors) ; then sew them up 
tightly and put them into a large pot, and boil slowly, until 
a broom-wisk or rye-sfcraw can be pushed into them with- 
out breaking ; they are then taken out, put under a weight, 
and left so all night ; next morning the fat is skimmed off 
from the liquor, when the rolliches are put into a tight tub 
or pot, and a mixture of half vinegar and half pot-liquor is 
poured over, and enough to cover them ; then a weight 
placed on top to keep them under. When wanted, one or 
more is taken out, cut up into thin slices, and warmed up in 
the liquor in a frying-pan, when they are found to be excel- 
lent eating." 

They are occasionally found in our markets, having been 
brought in by the Jersey Dutchmen, who sold them in 
ordinary times for about twenty-five cents per pound. 

Lard. — Among the many preparations made, no doubt 
lard is one of the most important in the culinary art. The 
fat cut from the various parts of the hog — consisting of the 
leaf fat and the meat fat — is cut into very small pieces, then 
boiled until quite rendered, that the pieces begin to look 
quite brown, when it is taken out, and the pieces or scraps 
heavily pressed. The melted fat, after having passed 
through a strainer into pots, etc., becomes lard when cool. 
The best should be white, without a disagreeable smell. 

Saaasages. — The best sausages are prepared altogether 
from pork, chopped small, seasoned, and run or stuffed into 
casins. Those made in the city are usually quite small in 
size, as the meat is run into the lamb casins. 

€otintry sausages, — Those sausages usually made in 



104 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

the neighboring country towns are prepared in the same 
way, but run into beeves' or hogs' casins. Some of the lat- 
ter are cleanly and well made, and some again are almost 
as dangerous as some of our city sausages. One plan of 
deceit is to add a large percentage of water in mixing the 
meat ; some will add one-eighth or more before it is pressed 
into the casins, which gives them a very moist, soft, and 
flabby appearance, while good sausages are firm, and also 
quite dry on the outside. There is clanger, also, in the kind 
and quality of the flesh which some use, it being almost 
impossible to tell, from outward appearance, of what animal 
or in what condition the flesh was, when hid in those skins ; 
and the only protection for the buyer is to purchase of those 
dealers who are certainly known to you, or else to buy the 
meat and prepare it yourself. 

San sage meat .— This meat is prepared as that for 
sausages, but not put into casins, and, of course, more open 
for inspection. Both this and sausages are excellent eating 
when you feel satisfied that they have been cleanly and 
properly made ; if not, you had better have nothing to do 
with them. In fact, the same will apply to all of the pre- 
pared meats. 

Head-cheese.— This article is made usually of pork, 
or rather from the meat off of the pig's head, skins, and 
coarse trimmings. After having been well boiled, the meat 
is cut up in pieces, seasoned well with sage, salt, and pep- 
per, and pressed a little, so as to drive out the extra fat and 
water. Some add the meat from off a cow or ox head, to 
make it lean, or not so luscious. 

Spiced puddings. — These puddings are made some- 
what like head-cheese, and generally prepared by the Ger- 
man dealers, some of whom make large quantities. They 
are also made of the meat from the pig's chops or cheeks, 
etc., well spiced and boiled. Some smoke them. 

Slood puddings are usually made from the hog's 
blood with chopped pork, and seasoned, then put in casins 
and cooked. Some make them with beef's blood, adding a 



THE PAETS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 105 

little milk ; but the former is the best, as it is thought to be 
the richest. 

Common puddings- —These puddings are made of 
the pork skins, beeves' head meat, pigs' liver, etc., seasoned 
and stuffed into beef's casins, and cooked. Sold at low 
prices. These puddings, like the preceding, were more gen- 
erally used many (forty) years ago by the poorer classes, 
and especially the hungry laborer, who would take a pair of 
these puddings (which then weighed one pound) at the cost 
of three or four cents, and the same amount spent in butter- 
crackers (nearly or quite as much weight), which would give 
him a cheap, wholesome, and hearty meal. But of late 
years the character and reputation of many of these pre- 
pared meats have been, except in some instances, any thing 
but " first rate." 

Brawn. — I have no knowledge of brawn being used in 
this country, although prepared from pork, or, properly, 
from the wild-boar. The old- country method of making it 
appears in "Willich's Dom. Ency., and is as follows : 

" The bones being taken out of the flitches (sides) or 
other parts, the flesh is sprinkled with salt and laid on a 
tray, that the blood may drain off, after which it is salted a 
little and rolled up as hard as possible. The length of the 
collar of brawn should be as much as one side of the boar 
will bear ; so that when rolled up it may be nine or ten 
inches in diameter. After being thus rolled up, it is boiled 
in a copper or large kettle, till it is so tender that you may 
run a stiff straw through it ; when it is set by till it is thor- 
oughly cold, and then put into a pickle composed of water, 
salt, and wheat-bran, in the proportion of two handfuls of 
each of the latter to every gallon of water, which, after be- 
ing well boiled together, is strained off as clear as possible 
from the bran, and, when quite cold, the brawn is put into 
it." 

IPenMMican. — One of the most useful applications of 
buffalo meat consists in the preparation of pemmican, an 
article of food of the greatest importance, from its porta- 



106 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

bility and nutritious qualities. This is prepared by cutting 
the lean meat into thin slices, exposing it to the heat of 
the sun or fire, and, when dry, pounding it to a powder. 
It is then mixed with an equal weight of buffalo suet, and 
stuffed into bladders. Sometimes venison is used instead 
of buffalo beef. Sir John Richardson, while preparing for 
his Arctic Expedition, found it necessary to carry with him 
pemmican from England. ' This he prepared by taking a 
round or buttock of beef cut into thin steaks, from which 
the fat and membranous parts were pared away, and dried 
in a kiln until the fibres of the meat became friable. It 
was then ground in a malt-mill, and mixed with nearly an 
equal weight of beef suet or lard. This completed the pre- 
paration of the plain pemmican ; but to a portion raisins 
were added, and another portion was sweetened with sugar. 
These latter changes were subsequently highly approved of 
by the voyagers. The pemmican was then placed in tin 
canisters and well rammed down, and after the cooling and 
contraction of the mass, these were filled up with melted 
lard through a small hole left in the end, which was then 
covered with a piece of tin and soldered up." 

Meat biscuit. — A valuable preparation for long voy- 
ages, etc., prepared by Mr. G. Borden, jr., was introduced 
here a few years ago. He says : " The meat biscuit con- 
tains, in a concentrated and portable form, all the nutriment 
of meat combined with flour .... by drying or bak- 
ing the mixture in an oven, in the form of a biscuit or 
cracker." 

Rennet. — To prepare this article for use, take the 
stomach of an unweaned calf, lamb, kid, or pig (the calf's 
preferred), empty it of its contents (some preserve the con- 
tents, curds, for use, but they are generally somewhat of- 
fensive), wash it slightly with cold water, let it lie ten days 
in salt, spread it out, and dry it quite hard. To prepare it 
for use take one quart of soft water, and add salt enough to 
make a strong pickle ; boil, and let it stand until cold ; 
break your dry rennet in small pieces, put it in a jar with 



THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 107 

this pickle ; in three days it will be fit for use. Strain, bot- 
tle, and cork it, and set it in a cool place. 

A quick niode of curing meats'.— The meat to be 
cured is placed in a strong iron vessel connected by a pipe 
and stop-cock with the brine-tub, also with an exhausting- 
pump. The cover having been screwed down on the iron 
vessel, the air is extracted and a vacuum established ; 
whereupon the stop-cock being turned, the brine rushes in 
and takes the place of the air, filling the pores and pene- 
trating the meat. 

If some of the parts should not be impregnated with the 
pickle, more is pumped in by a small condensing engine 
(connected with the iron vessel), until a pressure of from one 
hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds on the square inch 
be attained. It is then allowed to remain ten or fifteen 
minutes under pressure, when the meat will be found to be 
fully salted or well cured. 

Preserving" meat In a fresh state. — A Doctor 
Londe, of France, a few years ago, presented a plan for 
keeping meats in a fresh state for a long period. The pro- 
cess, is to " bone the meat, as far as practicable, plunge it 
into a kettle of gelatine, at about the temperature of boil- 
ing water, where it is held about six minutes, and then hung 
up to dry. Forty-eight hours later, it is again plunged, 
with its gelatinous envelope, into a solution of water, and 
then hung up to dry." 

Several specimens of this kind of preserved meats (which 
I suppose were the best) were shown by Mr. Marie, as 
samples, at the fair of the American Institute, held at the 
Crystal Palace, 1856. One piece of beef, representing five 
ribs, which appeared to be from a small, thin animal, and 
would not weigh over seven or eight pounds (not so much 
as two of our ordinary ribs), appeared to be dry and hard, 
looking like a piece . of varnished wood, with a smell any 
thing but agreeable. A leg of mutton, also, that appeared 
to have been hung up in the sun and dried (as the Indians 
cure meat, without salt), and then several coats of varnish 
'dried on it. 



108 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Coring' hams and shoulders. — Bub the meat well 
with fine salt, when perfectly cool ; lay it in a sweet cask 
for two days. Then, to every hundred pounds of meat, 
take eight pounds of ground rock-salt, two ounces of salt- 
petre, two pounds of sugar, one and a half ounces of pot- 
ash, and four gallons of water. Mix these well together 
until quite dissolved; skim it and pour it over the meat, 
when it should be kept under this brine about six weeks 
(some boil this pickle, and, when cool, pour it over the 
meat) ; after which, take out the meat, soak it in cool water 
for about four to five hours, string the several pieces and 
hang them up to dry for two days, when they are ready for 
the smoke-house. 

In the Chelmsford Chronicle (1836), " an ancient ham" is 
thus spoken of : " Mrs. Hyam, who died on the 19th ult., 
aged eighty years, received, on the day of her marriage, a 
present of a ham, with a request that it should not be cut 
until the birth of her first child. The lady never attained 
to maternal dignity, and the ham was kept until the funeral 
— sixty-four years — when it was dressed, and, to the sur- 
prise of all present, was perfectly good and tender." 

Tainted meat or gam© may be restored as follows : 
wrap it up in a fine linen cloth, closely, so as to prevent 
dust or cinders getting in; have ready a pail, or larger 
vessel of cold water ; take a shovelful, or larger quantity of 
live wood-coals, and throw in ; then put the meat or game 
in, and let it He under the water for five or ten minutes 
(according to the size). After taking it out, all the offen- 
sive smell will be removed ; but it must be immediately 
cooked. 

fly-Mown meats.— The fly which usually blows the 
meat is known as the green or meat fly. They are always, 
in the warm weather, found wherever there is fish or flesh, 
slaughter-houses, markets, larders, pantries, etc., which they 
frequent for the purpose of " blowing," or leaving their eggs 
in some moist crevice in the meat. These eggs will hatch 
in a few hours, so that live maggots are seen to creep. 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 109 

Many housekeepers imagine that meats in this state are 
spoiled, and unfit to be used ; but such is not the fact, as a 
little vinegar or salt and water will wash all signs away. 
Some also think the fly will not blow the newly -killed meats. 
I have known them to blow in fifteen minutes after the 
animal has been dressed, and in four hours afterwards 
found them creeping. 

Frozen meat and poultry. — Meat and poultry, of 
all kinds, should never be frozen, if it is possible to avoid 
it ; it changes the flavor of the flesh, as well as the juices, 
as it does vegetables and fruit. Nor will meats ripen, or, 
rather, grow tender, in that state. But, if frozen, it should 
not be thawed until ready for use, and then not in a warm 
room gradually, as that will make it flabby and very soon 
become putrid or spoiled, and, when cooked, be deficient in 
its flavor. The proper way is to place it in a vessel, cover 
it with cold water, and there keep until the ice is thawed 
out, which will be found to form around it. 

T© make beef tender. — If the weather is cool 
enough to keep the beef over-night, it should be cut into 
slices (about two inches thick) ; then rub over each piece a 
small quantity of carbonate of soda, and lay it down on 
dishes until just before cooking, when it should be washed 
off, and cut into pieces or steaks of suitable thickness, and 
cooked as wanted. This process will answer for any kind 
of flesh or fowl. In some of the Southern States, where 
little else than poor, tough beef is seen, this " tendering" 
method is adopted, but at the expense of the natural sweet- 
ness of the beef. 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 

The wild animals found in our States and Territories, 
hunted by the white and red man, for food or for pleasure, 
are accepted under the general title of " game." Profes- 
sional sportsmen, and even zoologists, particularize the 



110 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

character of these animals. Some animals there are — the 
squirrel, raccoon, opossum, etc. — which, although not strictly 
game, yet are sought after with a zeal by the hunter, as if 
they boasted of the high character ; while others — the fox, 
the otter, etc. — are mostly hunted for the excitement arising 
from this manly pursuit. 

All animals, whether tame or wild, whose flesh is not 
strong and tough, more especially when killed in season, 
are, no doubt, fit for human food ; and those which feed 
principally upon vegetation are to be preferred. There are, 
however, but few of those which subsist wholly upon flesh 
or fish that are much sought after for the table. Those 
with which I am most familiar, both at table and from infor- 
mation, as to their edible qualities, have been introduced in 
the following pages. 

The various wild animals which formerly inhabited 
this and the adjoining States, in large numbers, have 
gradually diminished and disappeared at the rapid im- 
provement of agriculture. Before steamboats and railroads 
came into existence, some species of game were scarce, or 
only found in our markets during the winter season. They 
were brought great distances ; and when any thing unusual 
appeared, it was generally noticed in the press, as from 
the following will appear, in the Commercial Advertiser, 
February 1, 1823 : 

" Wild Meats. — Our markets are not only well supplied 
with every variety of domestic meat and fowls, but there is 
a great variety of wild meats and wild game. Mr. Sykes 
(who kept the New York Coffee-house) has a fine bear* 
(weighing two hundred pounds), which he is soon to serve 
up to his friends ; and we yesterday saw, at Fulton-market, 
two wagons, from Sullivan County, N, Y., the one filled with 
white hares and partridges, and the other with venison. On 
the top of the bucks, which were stowed closely, stood a 
fierce-looking panther, almost eight feet long, as if to guard 

* The bear was purchased by Sykes from the owners of these wagons 
when they arrived. 



CALLED GAME. Ill 

the buck-tailed tribe. The panther was killed in Sullivan 
County, about two weeks since." 

Six years after, in the same paper (January 30, 1829), we 
also find — " Good venison has been a scarce article in this 
market during the last few weeks ; and that of an ordinary 
quality was sold this morning at eighteen cents per pound. 
A little after nine o'clock, however, a wagon drove up to 
the Bank Poffee-house, with a noble load of deer, topped 
off by. a panther of some eight or nine feet in length. They 
were taken in the town of Liberty, in Sullivan County, upon 
the Delaware." 

Since that period, the employment of steam facilities 
have been greatly increased, both on land and water, by 
which the most distant uncultivated States and Territories 
have been reached, which tended not only to increase the 
variety of game, but also to enable the importation of large 
numbers into our numerous towns and cities. No doubt, 
in the course of future seasons, we shall have our markets 
supplied with many of the most choice and rare species of 
game found inhabiting the distant climates and regions, 
and placed before our citizens as articles of food. At the 
same time, the advance of agriculture will be the extermina- 
tion of these animals from the face of our continent. 

In New York State, a game-law was passed, on the 6th 
of April, 1860, in which it is found that moose and deer are 
protected from being killed during certain months, of which 
the following is an extract : " No person or persons shall 
kill, or pursue with intent to kill, any moose, wild deer, or 
fawn, during the months of January, February, March, 
April, May, June, and July ; or shall expose to sale, or 
have in his or her possession, any green moose, deer, or 
fawn skin, or fresh venison, at any time during the months 
of February, after the 15th day thereof, March, April, May, 
June, and July, under a fine of twenty-five dollars for each 
deer so killed, and for each green moose, deer, or fawn 
skin, or fresh venison, so exposed for sale or had in his 
possession." 



112 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Bison, commonly called buff&Jo. — The flesh of this 
large animal is very seldom found in the markets of the 
eastern cities ; but it does occasionally appear, however, in 
the winter season, and sometimes in excellent condition. I 
have several times heard of its being in New York, Chicago, 
etc., and this year (1865), in the month of January, I was 
enabled to purchase one hind-quarter (with the skin on) and 
part of another, which was brought here by Mr. J. E. Cook, 
of Council Grove, Kansas, who had some two or three thou- 
sand pounds of nothing but hind- quarters of cow and heifer 
bison meat. I cut, sold, and presented a large portion of 
my purchase, so that it might be thoroughly tested as to its 
qualifications for the table ; and I also tried different parts 
of it roasted, broiled, etc. The general answer returned to 
me was — it was excellent eating, being very tender, juicy, 
and fine-flavored, with a slight " gamey" taste : while some 
described it as being like the breast of the quail, others 
something like long-killed, sweet, juicy venison. Perhaps, 
however, this meat was eaten under the most favorable cir- 
cumstances : in the first place, the animal was fat, having 
been killed then about two months, and at the same time it 
was kept in good condition, and thus it was made as perfect 
for choice eating as it could well be. 

In comparing the flesh or meat with that of beef, it ap- 
pears somewhat darker, both flesh and fat, the latter much 
redder — in fact, the whole appearance was like that of an 
overheated animal, when killed in that state, and I found it 
much more juicy than I expected. 

As to the meat when fresh-killed, we must take the evi- 
dence of the travellers and hunters, who generally consider 
it very savory food ; and no doubt it is, especially when the 
animal is a heifer or young cow ; or if, like our domestic cat- 
tle, a young, fat bull is selected, in some months' of the 
year the meat may be enjoyed by many, and more especially 
by the hungry traveller. Mr. John G. Bell, the well-known 
taxidermist, of our city, who travelled with "Audubon," in- 
forms me that he had killed many buffaloes, and that the 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 113 

meat which had been cut off from the cow buffalo, when fat, 
he always found excellent eating. He compared the flesh 
of one with that of beef from a domestic cow, and thought 
the choice was in favor of the bison beef. He also says 
they always selected these (cow and heifer) for their best 
eating. In certain seasons, when very dry, and especially 
in the spring of the year, the buffaloes are all found poor 
and thin, and unfit to be eaten. 

When the Indians hunt them for food, they look among 
the herd for the extraordinary large animals, feeling sure 
that they have been castrated when calves, which are often 
taken in their hunting expeditions, the operation performed, 
and then let go. 

" Audubon," in a letter to Dr. Gideon B. Smith, of Balti- 
more, in the spring of 1843, says : " Our folks have shot buffa- 
loes, but I have not done so, simply because they were 
worthless, through poverty, and when killed only display a 
mass of bones and skin, with a very thin portion of flesh ; 
and if you shoot a bull, the rankness of its better parts is 
quite enough to revolt the stomachs of all but starving 
men." 

A common true saying is, that " Hunger is an excellent 
sauce :" I would add that Starvation is a most terrible 
one! Imagine the dreadful condition of the living, ema- 
ciated, starving frames of Truxton, Maury, and others of the 
Darien Exploring Expedition, when one of the party (Trux- 
ton) saw a toad, which he instantly snatched up, bit off the 
head, spat it away, and then devoured the quivering body ! 
Another (Maury) picked up the rejected head and said to 
the other (Truxton), "You are getting quite particular! 
something of an epicure, eh ! to throw away the head !" He 
then quietly swallowed it, although he said afterwards " it 
was d — sh bitter." The idea that a human being could be 
in such a necessitous condition as to eat and enjoy the body 
of such a revolting, loathsome, and disgusting reptile is a 
most dreadful one. 

The hump of a fine fat buffalo is composed, nearly or all, 

8 



114 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT, 

of a sort of meat, — rather fat, somewhat like the udder of a 
spayed heifer, with the addition of the peculiar wild or 
gamey flavor, and is said to be very fine, but rather luscious 
eating. The tongue will also partake of this flavor, and I 
should think would be very acceptable, especially if it was 
properly cured. Hunters say the liver is well-tasted, and 
the brains are often eaten without undergoing the process 
of cooking. The marrow-bones are also highly esteemed, 
especially when roasted, and are often used as a substitute 
for butter, as the marrow-bones of all animals are filled 
with a short, buttery fat. 

Venison. — The flesh of all the deer species is called 
venison, although there is but one kind plentiful in our pub- 
lic markets in its season. As commonly spoken of, it 
means the flesh of the common deer, or Virginia deer. This 
animal is not now found plenty in our State, although many 
are killed, or, rather, a gradual extermination has been go- 
ing on for several years past, and more especially in the 
event of a severe winter and deep snows, when they are 
slaughtered by hundreds, in an unfit state. Large numbers 
are also brought from the Western States as well as the 
Canadas. Prior to 1830, a great many were yearly killed — 
as well as grouse, or prairie hen — on the Hempstead plains 
and other parts of Long Island, which brought high prices 
in our markets. 

Buck venisoaa is best when killed from the 1st of 
August to the 1st of November, but it is quite difficult to 
have it fresh in our markets at this early date. After the 
1st of November the doe venison is preferred, and it con- 
tinues good until the 1st of January, after which these 
animals should not be killed. Venison first begins to make 
its appearance in small quantities in our markets in the lat- 
ter part of September, and is sometimes found as late as the 
1st of March, the next spring, having been kept for months 
in a frozen state, for the purpose of obtaining the usual high 
prices which prevail at this late period. It cannot be too 
fat, and if it have no fat on the back it is of a very poor 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 115 

quality, and will always eat dry and tasteless, without the 
skill of the cook is considerably taxed. 

" Thanks, my lord, for your venison, for finer or fatter, 
Never ranged in a forest, or smoked on a platter ; 
The haunch was a picture for painters to study, 
The fat was so white and the lean was so ruddy." — Dr. Goldsmith. 

Very large portions of venison is found in (hind) saddles 
only, and principally with all the skin on, which keeps it in 
good condition. It is cut and sold by the saddle, haunch, 
leg, loin, fore- quarter, or in steaks : the latter, however, 
should not be cut until ready for use. It is considered 
highly nutritious and very wholesome food. The skins fur- 
nish the buckskin of commerce. The Boston News Letter, 
December 7, 1732, says : " A buck was lately killed in the 
Narraganset country, which weighed sixty-nine pounds a 
quarter, and is reckoned the largest deer that has been 
killed in these parts for some years past." 

The Bethany, Wayne County, Pennsylvania, Enquirer, 
says : " The largest buck within the recollection of our 
oldest hunters, was shot on the 10th inst. (November, 1831), 
in Lebanon township. He has attracted the attention of 
hunters in that neighborhood for about five years past, on 
account of extraordinary size, and has been repeatedly shot 
at, but has hitherto escaped shot-free. He was started on 
the run-way, and was greeted with a fire from two of the 
hunters ; but (to use the language of Big Hunter), Mr. 
William J. Shields, of Philadelphia, did the job. The deer 
weighed, before he was dressed, three hundred and sixty- 
five pounds ! ! ! When dressed, his meat weighed two hun- 
dred and ten pounds ; tallow (fat), ten pounds ; hide, twenty- 
three pounds six ounces." 

The Cornwall Freeholder, 1855 (Canada), relates the fol- 
lowing hunting incident as an absolute fact. " As two 
hunters were hunting on the banks of the river Nacion, near 
Crysler's Mills, their dogs pressed close on a deer, which 
took to the river, where the hunters pursued it in a canoe. 



116 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

On approaching the animal they were surprised to perceive 
it struggling desperately, being every now and then jerked 
under water. The hunters immediately approached, and 
with the aid of others at hand, dragged the deer into the 
canoe, when, to the astonishment of all present, a large 
turtle (snapper, no doubt), weighing forty pounds, was found 
firmly fastened to the tail of the deer, which would have 
undoubtedly been shortly drowned by its amphibious assail- 
ant. The turtle sustained its grip for upwards of two hours 
after the deer was killed. This extraordinary circumstance 
is attested to by several witnesses." 

In the News from Charleston, December 21, 1815, "A 
gentleman, resident of John's Island, hunting there a few 
days since, discovered the bodies of three dead deer, who 
had been engaged in fighting, and their horns were so en- 
tangled that they cannot be disengaged without breaking 
them." — Commercial Advertiser, Dec. 30, 1815. 

The same paper, November 6, 1821, also notices a hunt 
near Boston, as follows : 

" Deer Hunting. — A party of gentlemen left Charlestown, 
with fox-hounds, to hunt deer in the woods of Sandwich. 
They arrived at Swift's, in Sandwich, and early next morning 
started a fine buck, which, after a smart run of twelve to 
fifteen miles, closely followed by the famous cry, and the 
huntsmen at full speed, took to the water, was pursued by 
boats and shot. Another buck was soon after uncovered, 
and after a short but smart chase, was also killed. The 
parties returned, bringing with them the carcasses of the 
venison, which are in fine order, and are in Faneuil-hall 
Market." 

Elk or Wapiti.— Elk venison, both from the wild and 
tame animal, are occasionally found in our city : two of the 
former, which had been killed in Iowa, I saw near the 
Washington Market, in Fulton-street, in 1856 (see Moose), 
and several since. 

Several tame specimens were exhibited at the Fair of the 
American Institute Cattle Show, on Hamilton Square, in 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 117 

1854 ; and on the 16th of June, 1858, a very fine female 
was brought with a drove of cattle from Iowa, and sold at 
the Bull's Head yards. About one week after it dropped a 
young one, which soon after died. 

We find the Cleveland Leader (1859), " announcing the 
arrival in that city of Mr. George Eaymond, all the way 
from Salt Lake City, via Cherry Creek Mines and Kansas, 
having come the entire distance driving a span of elk before 
a wagon. The elk in question are only three years old, an 
age at which horses are not at all fit for use, yet Mr. Eay- 
mond assures us that he actually travelled as far as one 
hundred miles in a single day. He was on his way to Ver- 
mont with his novel team. The elk have now upon them 
horns three feet in length, which have been only 'six weeks 
in growing." 

The venison from a well-fed animal, in certain seasons, is 
very good eating, but not so good as from the common 
deer. But a buck elk, killed out of season, is very poor 
and strong eating. The horns, in their soft state, are pre- 
pared and eaten, and by some considered a delicacy. 

The New York Gazette, June 6, 1763, says : Last Tuesday 
two uncommon animals were seen in Milford, which being 
pursued betook themselves to the water, and were followed 
by a number of people in a small vessel, and were taken. 
The he one was strangled in the water by a rope being 
made too fast about his neck. The she one is now alive, is 
big with young, and is about fourteen and a half hands 
high. They are much the same color as a deer, and are 
extremely nimble ; they have a neck about the length of a 
common horse's, and short mane, and have little short 
knobs of horns. The he one was about sixteen and a half 
hands high ; and those that ate of his flesh say it tasted a 
good deal like venison. 

" They were thought to have been elks when they were 
first taken, but they don't at all answer the description we 
have had of those animals, which are said to be about the 
size of a mule, and to have a large horn." 



118 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Caribou, or American Reindeer.— This animal 
appears to be yet found in Maine, and along the borders of 
the St. Lawrence. Although the flesh of this animal has 
been brought to our city, I have not yet been able to eat of 
it. However, it is said, when the animal is in good condi- 
tion, its flesh is excellent food, being very tender, and the 
flavor superior to any other venison ; but when poor and 
lean it is quite insipid eating, which " fills the stomach but 
never satisfies the appetite." 

Since writing the above I have eaten of the venison from 
two different animals, and found both equal to the above 
description. The sinews and ligaments, however, were very 
tough and wiry, showing great strength and power of en- 
durance possessed by the animal. It certainly was the best- 
flavored venison I ever ate. 

Black-tailed Deer, or Mule-deer. — Perhaps this 
animal, or rather its flesh, should not be noticed by me, it 
being so scarce and far away ; but considerable difference 
of opinion appears among the naturalists about its quality. 
I have thought proper to introduce what little knowledge 
I have obtained in my inquiries in relation to it. From 
one source it is said to be " insipid and inferior to that of 
the common deer." Another says, " that it is far superior 
to any of the deer species." Audubon, however, who has 
killed many of them, describes it as being tender and 
good flavored ; and Mr. Bell (his companion) says " that 
he had often killed them and eaten their flesh, under ordin- 
ary circumstances, and found it quite as good as that of the 
common deer." 

Jfloose. — The flesh of this scarce animal may be prop- 
erly termed moose venison ; the appearance of all I have 
ever seen was not so inviting as the common venison, it 
being a coarse, dry, dark, and tough-looking meat, although 
the Indians and some hunters say it is excellent food, and 
they can stand more fatigue while eating it than when using 
the flesh of any other. Others again say, that it is apt to 
produce dysentery with persons unaccustomed to use it. 



CALLED GAME. 119 

There is no doubt but the flesh of the tame male, either 
moose or elk, when castrated, could be converted into a 
dish which the epicure could not resist. The tongue is 
considered a delicacy, as is also his moafle (the large gristly 
extremity cf its large nose), when properly prepared and 
cooked. The skins are much used by the hunters for snow- 
shoes and moccasins : for these purposes they are best when 
taken in the month of October. 

Mr. Wm. Paul had, when I saw him on the 7th of Febru- 
ary, 1856, in Fulton-street, ^New York, near the Washington 
Market, nine moose and two elk, which he had brought 
from Iowa. They were in good condition, although killed 
some five weeks before. 

Sibley, in his interesting history of the town of Union, 
Maine, says of this animal : " Probably there is no part of 
the United States in which moose were so numerous as in 
Maine. It is said that as recently as 1849 more than four- 
teen hundred were killed in one year by the Indians, chiefly 
for the value of the skins." 

The N. Y. Mercury, January 11, 1768, says : " We hear 
from Deerfield, in the province of New Hampshire, that on 
the 26th day of November last one Josiah Prescot, of that 
town, being out a hunting about three miles from his house, 
he spied a large moose at about a hundred yards' distance. 
He immediately fired at her, and shot her down dead : upon 
that there arose up two more at a small distance from the 
first. He immediately charged his gun again and shot 
down the second ; and while the other was smelling of his 
mate, he charged again, and shot down the third ; and while 
he was charging his gun again, a fourth came up towards 
the others, and he shot her dead also. Two of them were 
old ones, the other two young ones. One of the old ones 
was ten feet high and ten feet long, the other eight feet 
high and ten feet long ; the other two were about six 
feet high and eight feet long. After this extraordinary ex- 
ploit was over, he was joined by a partner, who, being 
within hearing of the guns, came up to his assistance, and 



120 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

on going home, he got help to dress the moose : a wild-eat 
they also killed on their return. This is a fact." 

One other curious incident I wish to put on record before 
I part with it. About the year 1840 a gentleman informed 
me that while living near Syracuse, New York, a Mr. Na- 
thaniel Dickinson, farmer, who lived between that place 
and Lake Oneida, had a young heifer stray away and was 
gone all winter, and when found the next spring she had a 
half-moose calf by her side, about four weeks old. He did 
not know whether it grew up or not, as he left the place. 
At that period a great many moose were found there. 

American antelope, or prong-born. — This scarce 
animal is said to inhabit the great Western prairies in Up- 
per Missouri, Oregon, etc. Lieut. Wilkes (U. S. Expl. 
Expd.) says that the flavor of the meat was thought to be 
superior to that of the common deer ; and Mr. Horace 
Greeley, in his interesting letters while travelling to Pike's 
Peak, etc., in one dated June 2, 1859, says : " The flesh is 
tender and delicate -— the choicest eating I have found in 
Kansas. Sly and fleet as he is, he is the chief sustenance, 
at this season, of the Indians out of the present buffalo 
ranges." 

In the same year a remarkable shot was made by Dr. 
Irwin of the United States Army, of Fort Buchanan, " who 
killed two antelopes at a single shot with a Colt's carbine, 
the distance being over three hundred yards. The ball 
passed through the heart of one animal and the liver of 
the other." 

Big-horn, or mountain sheep.— The big-horn is 
said, by travellers, to be much larger than the common 
sheep. The male (full grown) often weighs two hundred to 
three hundred pounds, and upwards. When fat, the flesh 
is considered excellent when in season, resembling the finest 
mutton, and even exceeding it in flavor. If so, there seems 
no reason, except scarcity and distance, why this animal 
could not be domesticated, as it is asserted that the scan- 
tiest vegetation is sufficient to support it. The gray or 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 121 

brown wool or hair maybe too coarse to be profitably used, 
which appears the only drawback, except that it may not 
bear confinement and artificial feeding in winter. 

In the month of July, 1817, a skin of this animal, then 
called " white wild sheep," was presented by John Jacob 
Astor, Esq., to Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell, who exhibited it at 
a meeting of the Lyceum of Natural History, and then de- 
posited it in their cabinet. It was brought, among other 
skins, from Missouri, by the way of Lake Superior. 

Rocky Mountain goat.— As this animal's name de- 
notes, the Eocky Mountains claim its principal habitation. 
I read and believe what travellers assert, that its flesh is not 
much valued, it being hard, dry, and unpleasant ; but there 
is no doubt it could be domesticated and treated like our 
common goats, when its flesh would no doubt be well fla- 
vored, as well as having the advantage of very fine glossy 
hair or fleece. 

Northern liare. — This animal is found in greater 
numbers in our markets now than ten years ago. They are 
nearly one third larger than the common rabbit, the fur 
much finer, nearly the same color, except in winter, when 
they are found almost white. The flesh of an old hare is 
tough, dry, and insipid ; but the leveret, or young one, when 
in good condition, is very fair eating, not however so good 
as the rabbit. They are generally in our markets in the 
months of November, December, and January, but are 
good until March. 

This hare was originally introduced into Canada by sev- 
eral English officers during the time of the French war, 
and from there brought into the States, where they have 
spread. Several gentlemen sportsmen, in 1827, collected 
about fifty hares, transported them to Long Island, and 
turned them loose near the Hempstead plains. I believe, 
however, that they have been all exterminated many years 
ago. 

A curious incident relating to one of these animals is 
found in the St. James Chronicle, January 12, 1764, as fol- 



122 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

lows : " A person of veracity from Lincolnshire (England) 
says that a few days ago the water suddenly overflowed a 
field where sheep were grazing, and the poor things being 
up to their bellies in it, the owner went to get them out, 
when lo ! upon the back of one of them he found a hare 
sitting, which he laid hold of and brought home, and has it 
now alive." 

Rabbit, or gray hare.— The flesh of this plentiful 
animal, when over one year old, is quite dark, dry, and 
tough eating, without considerable aid from the cook. The 
young, when nearly full grown and fat, are tender and 
rather delicate eating. When old, their claws are long and 
rough. They do not change their color like the hare, but 
always remain gray. Generally found in our markets from 
September to January, after which they should not be pur- 
chased. In the best condition in November, they are 
brought in large quantities from every quarter, and if they 
were not so reproductive they would be soon exterminated, 
as great numbers are shot by the pot hunters before they 
are half grown : many are destroyed by animals, hawks, 
owls, etc. In 1850, I went out one morning about daybreak 
to shoot gray-squirrels. In getting over a fence I discov- 
ered a large barred or hooting owl on the ground with a 
full-grown rabbit, minus the head, which he had devoured. 
The owl was so busy with his breakfast, and no doubt was 
quite hungry, that he allowed me to get within ten yards of 
him, when he started on the wing, carrying the rabbit in 
his claws. I shot it down, but he clung to his prey until 
nearly dead. 

Domestic or fancy rabbits.— They are often found 
in our markets (both alive and dead), sometimes ready 
dressed, generally very fat and fine, and much superior to 
the wild rabbit, being more juicy, tender, and better flavored. 
Poulterers keep them alive, for sale, of various colors. The 
young, for the table, are best from twelve weeks to twelve 
months old. "In England, the rabbit formerly held the 
rank of ' farm stock,' and thousands of acres were exclusive- 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 123 

ly devoted to its production. Families were supported, and 
rents, rates, and taxes were paid from its increase and sale. 
The 'gray skins' went to tne natter, the ' silver skins' were 
shipped to China,' and were dressed as furs, while the flesh 
was a favorite dish at home." 

Guinea pig" or cavy. — This restless little animal 
looks much like a small pig with a fur skin : is a native of 
South America, but has been domesticated here. They are 
found in numbers in our markets, alive in cages, for sale. 
Many keep them as pet animals, although their flesh is 
eatable, but not much thought of by those who have eaten 
of it. 

Squirrels. — Among the varieties of squirrel found in 
our markets are the fox, cat, gray, black, and red. I have 
also seen the ground, or striped, and the flying squirrels 
alive, but never dead, for sale ; they are all, however, edible, 
and much better eating than the rabbit. The gray and black 
are found sometimes in plenty along in the months of Sep- 
tember, October, November, and December. The fox and 
cat squirrels are somewhat larger than the gray, and occa- 
sionally seen here, having been brought from the Western 
States. I have shot the gray, black, and red (and might 
have shot the striped) in the same wood, in one of my hunt- 
ing excursions in Cayuga County, New York. At another I 
found the gray and black travelling, or, rather, migrating, 
which they sometimes do, when their food is scarce. It is 
said they always travel to the east, often hundreds of miles, 
and when necessary to cross a river or lake they enter the 
water like dogs, if it is quite smooth. In the month of Sep- 
tember, 1851, I 'arrived at Lake George where I found the 
gray and black squirrels had been travelling for several days 
and were still moving. Early one morning I discovered 
three or four at several distances, swimming from the west- 
ern to the eastern shore of the lake, which at that time was 
as smooth as glass. I watched them as long as I could see 
the ripples which they made, and supposed they succeeded 
in crossing the lake, which at this point was more than a 



124 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

mile wide. They will not enter the water when there is a 
ripple, as they swim very deep and of course drown easily ; 
sometimes they are caught out in the rivers or lakes with a 
sudden breeze, just enough to agitate the water, when it 
drowns them, without they are lucky enough to catch a 
floating piece of bark or wood to mount upon, and with their 
tails curled up they are blown or wafted ashore. In this sit- 
uation, I suppose, some writers have found them who assert 
that "when it becomes necessary to pass a lake or river, 
they lay hold of a piece of larch or fir, and mounting it, 
abandon themselves to the waves ; they erect their tails to 
catch the wind." All squirrels, when sitting, curl their tails 
up against their backs. I found many of both black and 
gray squirrels floating or lying along the shores of the lake 
drowned. Persons frequently went after them in boats, and 
on putting down the oar before them they would run up in- 
to the boat almost exhausted, when they were secured alive. 
I saw several that had been so taken at Lake George. 

The gray squirrel is easily tamed, and soon becomes ac- 
quainted with those who feed or treat him kindly. I had 
one which ran around the house, out into the yard, and at 
times would sit on my knee or shoulder to feed. 

In Boston (and Philadelphia also) I have seen them in the 
large parks, or public grounds, running up and down the 
large trees and over the ground. I found they had nests in 
small wooden houses which were fastened up into the trees, 
and when some little school-children came along and called 
them, the squirrels would come down and receive a nut or a 
piece of cake from their hands. I am told they breed every 
season in those parks. 

Black bear. — The flesh of this animal is the only spe- 
cies I ever knew to be brought to our markets for sale. 
Bear, or b'ar-meat, is the common name used to designate 
its flesh (when spoken of), and it is rather luscious but 
savory eating ; that from a young bear, when nearly full- 
grown and fat, is considered best. Generally found in our 
large markets in the late fall or winter months, and some 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 125 

years in great plenty. The dealers in its flesh cut it to suit 
purchasers, for roasting, steaks, etc. 

The taking of one of these animals in swimming across 
the Hudson Bayer, about the period of the Eevolution, and 
exposing its body for sale in an old market, then known as 
Hudson-market, which stood on Greenwich-street, east (one 
block) of the present Washington-market, changed its name 
to that of the once well-known Bear-market. (See history 
of the Bear-market, in " The Market-book," vol. i.) 

The following will give some idea of their plentifulness in 
our State, and especially along the Hudson Biver, at an 
early period. The New York Gazette, October 8, 1759, has 
recorded — " A gentleman, who came down in one of the last 
sloops from Albany, says that he was ashore at several 
places on each side of the North Biver, and that at every 
place he landed there were great complaints made of the 
damage done by bears. Some complain of the loss of their 
sheep, hogs, and calves ; others, of their devouring their 
fields of Indian-corn, and adding that they are more numer- 
ous tLan has been known in the memory of man. And, par- 
ticularly, he was at a tavern on the post-road, near Pough- 
keepsie, when the landlord counted to him thirty-six, that 
had been killed within three weeks of that time, in the com- 
pass of four or five miles. Whilst this gentlemen and the 
captain were ashore at this tavern, two bears came out of 
the bushes where the captain and himself landed, and swam 
across the river, passing very near the head of the sloop ; 
but the battoe being ashore, it was not in the power of the 
people of the sloop to pursue them." 

The same paper, January 3d, 1763, notices a very large 
hair, as follows : " Last week, a bair was shot in Connecti- 
cut Biver, at Saybrook, which weighed seven score and 
seven pounds. About forty men dined on it." 

The Commercial Advertiser, November 10, 1824, thus 
notices the taking of a white bear : " On Monday, the 18th 
ult., a white bear was killed on the west branch of the Biver 
Susquehanna, four miles below Youngwomanstown, by Mr. 



126 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

John Graham. The fur is thicker, and appears to be softer 
than that of the black bear, and its ears much larger. It 
was in company with a black bear at the time it was killed ; 
and Mr. Graham is of opinion that, if he had had assistance, 
he could have taken it alive. This is the first quadruped of 
this species that has been seen or taken in this part of the 
world by any of the oldest inhabitants." 

In the same paper (December 1, 1838) will be found a 
marvellous incident and escape, in a letter dated " Linneus, 
Me., November, 19, 1838 — "About seven o'clock in the 
evening, Mr. Isaac Saunders' son James, who is about eight 
years of age, was sent to the barn to feed the cattle, and, 
while returning therefrom to the house (the distance from 
the barn to the house is about forty rods), had his attention 
arrested by the appearance of a black object directly ahead 
of him. He stood still a moment, not knowing whether to 
advance or retreat. At length he concluded to go ahead, 
when the bear rose up on his hind legs, and put himself in 
an attitude to receive the youngster with his fore paws. 
The boy, perceiving the attitude of the bear, and his ap- 
parent determination to maintain his ground, gave a loud 
screech, and turned and ran towards the barn. At this the 
bear started in pursuit, and came up with the boy, who was 
still screeching. Just as the men in the house, who had 
heard the alarm, were approaching the theatre of action, 
the bear seized the boy with his fore paws, raised himself 
again upon his hind legs, and started with his prey, with all 
possible dispatch, for the woods. The men hotly pursued 
him for some three-quarters of a mile, when the bear, find- 
ing himself but a few feet ahead of his pursuers, turned 
around and stood face to face with them, when the men, 
each of whom was armed with an axe, made a motion to 
give him a gentle tap on the head ; but his left paw was 
ready for a fend-off, while he held the boy tightly with his 
right one. The men finding it was useless to fight with 
axes, one of them started for the house for a gun, which he 
loaded with buckshot, and returned to the woods. On his 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 127 

arrival at the scene of battle, the bear, in attempting to turn 
and try leg-bail again, was shot through the left side of the 
body, which brought him to the ground, and caused him to 
relinquish his hold of the boy, who scampered home, more 
frightened than hurt, having received no other harm than a 
most unconscionable hugging. The bear weighed, when 
dressed, three hundred and sixty-two pounds, and is said to 
be the largest ever caught in this town." 

.Raccoon* — These animals are occasionally seen in our 
markets for sale, both alive and dead — usually more plenti- 
ful in the fall months. The full-grown or old raccoon will 
weigh from seven to twelve pounds, the flesh of which is 
quite rank and strong. The young are better ; but I think 
them inferior eating, and must confess that I was not in a 
situation to give them a fair trial when I ate of them. 

I had the pleasure, or rather, as it turned out afterwards, 
a punishment of several days' confinement to my room with 
excessive hoarseness obtained from the enjoyment of a " rac- 
coon-hunt," some twelve or fifteen years ago (1846), away 
from the United States, in the dominions of New Jersey, 
with a few friends. On a cool, clear, autumnal evening, we 
took our departure, travelling some three or four hours be- 
fore our hound-dogs started the game — a raccoon ; which, 
however, proved to be double game — two raccoons leading 
our party. We followed their trails for several miles, through 
the drear wood and underbrush, until we brought up under 
a large-sized tree, where the dogs gave tongue " right mer- 
rily." The darkness of the woods, rendered more dense, if 
possible, by night, prevented us seeing each other or any 
thing bearing shape, save now and then a twinkling star 
peeping through the vast roof of leaves. One of the party, 
of keener vision, thought he perceived, pendent from a 
bough, a peculiar-looking bunch, which his imagination left 
him at a loss to speculate upon. I being the only one in 
possession of a gun, I proposed taking a shot at it. This 
being agreed to, I pointed as near as the darkness would 
permit, and fired. The discharge caused the black bundle 



128 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 






to change its position, which gave life to our party. Here 
was something. I charged again — this time with buckshot 
— and popped away at the black bunch. To our amaze- 
ment, down tumbled a fine young raccoon. The dogs were 
not satisfied to leave the tree yet. All raccoon-hunters have 
what they term a "climber" — a boy or man that can quickly 
mount to the top of a tree ; so one of our party enacted this 
character for this time, and proceeded to ascend the tree. 
His keen eye soon espied another gentlemanly raccoon, lying 
well out on an extended limb. "With a few shakes, his 
raccoonship either sprang or fell to the ground, when he in- 
stantly fell a prey to the attentions of the dogs. This 
species of hunting continued throughout the night, varied, 
however, with the distant and dismal owl-hooting of cat or 
barred owls, and the scent of several dog-worried skunks, 
whose occasional proximity was any thing but agreeable. 
This sport to the dogs, as well as to ourselves, was painfully 
interrupted now and then by a scratch on the face or lacerated 
eyes from limbs or bushes, or otherwise stumbling into the 
depth of some mudhole, or swamp measured, or by becoming 
a regular " stick in, the mud." Finally, before the morning 
light, one of the hunters discovers a feeling within that a 
little to eat and drink would be more than agreeable, situ- 
ated as the party was, but finds to his horror that the noise 
of the dogs added to the party a most hungry and thirsty 
addition of hunters, which originally were not " counted in" 
nor even thought of from the start, who had managed to 
take particular great care of all the eatables, etc. — we will 
not refer to the drinkables, which our man " Friday" had 
the special care of, but who, on getting tired and sleepy, as 
a person naturally will, who over-eats and over-drinks him- 
self, when their legs get weary and their heads become so 
heavy that they will insist, nay, almost swear, that in their 
hats they carried a "brick." To wind up this hunter's ex- 
perience is a violent cold, with hoarseness, — no doubt, from 
the exposure of the throat in looking through the tree-tops 
for mares or raccoons. The fruits of three days' hunting 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 129 

were the carrying of two well-filled game-pockets, consisting 
of a couple of raccoons, as many rabbits, several quails and 
partridges, and a plump nine-pound double-gun ; hungry, 
thirsty, tired, hoarse, and used-up generally, unable to speak 
aloud for several days, with divers other disagreeables, the 
result of my experience, and of my first and last " coon-hunt." 

Wild-cat, or bay lynx. — This savage little animal, 
as well as the Canada lynx, is occasionally hunted in this 
and the neighboring States. The hunters are usually satis- 
fied with their beautiful skins, except in case of short pro- 
visions, when they partake of their flesh with much satis- 
faction — it appearing much like white veal. Audubon says 
of its flesh — " We have seen it cooked, when it appears 
savory, and the persons who partook of it pronounced it 
delicious." 

Opossum. — This animal is occasionally found in the 
markets for sale, in the fall and winter months. The full- 
grown is about as large as a ten-pound pig (but its flesh is 
not equal for the table), of a grayish-white face, and under 
nearly white, and a long rat-looking tail, with a part of it, 
next to the body, covered with hair. 

They are considered by many country-people, and others, 
who have partaken of their flesh (especially those that have 
been feeding on the persimmons, and then, above all, well 
dressed and well cooked), as being tender, luscious, and 
well-flavored (one man told me it was better than any pig 
ever roasted). These, and, in fact, all animals, should be 
dressed as soon after having been killed as possible, and 
never purchased in any other manner. The skin of this 
animal is sometimes found on sale, but they are usually 
scalded like a pig. 

Wood-chuck, or ground-hog. — This small, stout, 
brown-colored animal is only occasionally seen in our mar- 
kets, although often killed within twenty miles of the city 
of New York. In the fall months they are very fat, when 
the flesh of the young is quite palatable, somewhat like a 
pig, and is considered wholesome. The old ones are toler- 

9 



130 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

ably good, but much better after having been frozen some 
time. They usually weigh from eight to twelve pounds. A 
fine fat young one, weighing six and a quarter pounds, 
dressed like a roasting-pig (hair scalded off), and much 
resembling that animal, was shown in Jefferson Market, 
August 17, 1860; it was shot at Throg's Neck, West- 
chester County, New York. In the Deerfield News, June 4, 
1820 (Hampshire County, Mass.), is noticed — " Our famous 
woodchuck-hunt terminated, on Wednesday, in favor of the 
party under Mr. E. Nims, who destroyed one thousand one 
hundred and fifty-four. Those under Mr. J. C. Hoyt de- 
stroyed eight hundred and seventy-three — making a total 
of two thousand and twenty-seven !" 

Porcupine. — These slow but harmless animals are 
found quite plentifully in the western parts of our State, 
where they are often killed, and their bodies left to decay. 
Their armor, or the great number of little defensive thorns 
which cover and protect them from their foes when alive, 
render them very troublesome to skin after death ; but I am 
told their flesh, after having been nicely cleaned, is very 
tender, luscious, and wholesome eating. The Indians esteem 
its flesh. It weighs from ten to fifteen pounds. 

Skwiik. — The flesh of this most detestable animal 
is, I am told, when properly prepared, as good as rac- 
coon. I have heard those who have eaten it say it was 
very sweet and savory after it had been dressed. I never 
saw it for sale in our markets, although I have heard of its 
being dressed and sold under another name* 

Professor Kalm says of this animal : " I have spoken with 
both Englishmen and Frenchmen, who assured me they had 
eaten of it, and found it very good meat, and not much un- 
like the flesh of a pig. When the Indians kill them they al- 
ways eat its flesh, but are very careful in dressing or skin- 
ning it." 

This animal's soft, black, or mottled skin or fur would 

* The skins of the striped and black skunks are often on sale here, the 
latter being the most valuable. 



WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME. 131 

be quite as valuable as many other small animals' skins, 
if it was not for their unpleasant smell. Usual weight, seven 
to eight pounds. 

Beaver. — This animal was once a native here, but civ- 
ilization and the beaver's valued skin have almost extermin- 
ated the family, although now and then a specimen is taken 
in our State. It is said " the flesh of this animal is greatly 
prized by hunters and voyageurs, especially when roasted 
in the skin after the fur is singed off." This, of course, is 
an expensive luxury, and is frowned upon by the fur- traders. 
" Care must be taken, however, to examine the herbage on 
which the animals feed, or mischief may follow an unwary 
repast. Mr. Ross's party were once poisoned by feasting 
heartily on beaver, and some of them had a very narrow 
escape. The Indians eat this kind of beaver, but they roast 
it ; boiled, they say, it is pernicious." 

Professor Kalm, in his " Travels in America/' in 1748, 
says : " Beaver flesh is eaten, not only by the Indians, but 
likewise by the Europeans, and especially by the French on 
their fasting days ; for his 'Holiness, in his system, has 
ranged the beaver among the fish. The flesh* is reckoned 
best if the beaver has lived upon vegetables. The tail is 
likewise eaten, after it has been well boiled and roasted 
afterwards." 

Doctor Goodman also, in his " Natural History," says ; 
"During the winter season the beaver becomes very fat, 
and its flesh is esteemed by the hunters to be excellent food. 
But those occasionally caught in the summer are very thin, 
and unfit for the table." 

Otter. — This now scarce animal is seldom seen in our 
city, although it is brought here occasionally, but more for 
the taxidermist than for the quality of its flesh for the table. 
I am told, however, that the flesh is quite good eating, ex- 
cept being of a fishy flavor. I saw a fine specimen in 1857, 
taken in one of the streams in New Jersey, and I find in the 
"New York Sun," May 17, 1856 : "An otter, weighing eigh- 
teen pounds, and three feet six inches long, was caught in 




132 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Paramus, Bergen County, N. J., on Thursday last, in a net, 
drowned. The skin weighed two pounds." The skins are 
occasionally found in our markets. 

A remarkable shot is recorded in the " Commercial Ad- 
vertiser," March 20, 1838, as follows : " There have been ex- 
hibited in our town (Williamsport, Pa.) to-day, three large 
otters, killed by Mr. Isaac Dodd, about two miles from this 
place, on the canal, at a single shot, with a musket loaded 
with small squirrel-shot, the largest (otter) of which weighed 
twenty-five pounds and the smallest twenty pounds." 

Badger* — These animals are sometimes taken, but more 
for their skin than their flesh, although by some they are 
considered good eating. They are little larger than a rac- 
coon, with a thick fur coated with long hair of a reddish, 
brindle color, except underneath, which is white. They are 
very intelligent-looking in the face, with sharp teeth and 
long claws. An occasional skin is found in our cities for sale. 

Musk-rat or Musquash. — This animal is among the 
many kinds that are seldom or never seen in our markets, 
yet they are often killed for their fur skin, and their flesh 
would be (more) eaten if it was thought eatable. The name 
it bears would almost condemn its flesh from being used as 
food ; but I know several persons who, having dressed and 
eaten them, say its flesh is tender and very well flavored, 
when young and in good condition. If its flesh can be hung 
and frozen a few days it is considered still better. A large 
number of their skins are brought to our (New York) city 
and sold. 

POULTRY. 

TJndee this head we place all kinds of domesticated fowls, 
tame pigeons, etc. These are received from Long Island, 
and other parts of our State, Connecticut, Rhode Island, 
Massachusetts, Vermont, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. 
Large numbers arrive here from the latter State, of the 
choicest quality, all ready dressed, put up in various pack- 



POULTRY. 133 

ages in the cold seasons. During the hot weather numbers 
are sent here alive in " coops ;" but many of our large 
dealers prepare boxes, in which poultry, carefully dressed, 
are packed in ice, by which means they arrive here in good 
condition. In the dressing, care should be taken in the 
" picking" not to tear the skin, nor should the wings be cut 
off, but picked to the end, and the necks tied up, so that the 
bodies should not get bloody. Large numbers go through 
the process of scalding, that the feathers may be taken off 
more readily ; these are not so much liked as dry-picked 
fowls. This mode of dressing appears to us an unnecessa- 
rily cruel one : the fowl is usually stuck in the mouth up 
through the upper jaw into the brain, and then, while slowly 
bleeding and struggling, they are picked ; if laid until the 
fowl is quiet and dead the feathers become set, and then, of 
course, the skin is torn in plucking them off. 

Poultry would be more delicate eating, better flavored, 
and command higher prices if all the useless offal, such as 
the head, feathers, and intestines, were removed, and the 
blood washed out with cold water. This would remove the 
injury often done to the flesh by the flavor of the excrements, 
when having been killed some time. The caponed fowl may 
be left with the head on, that the purchaser may judge 
whether he be a capon or not, by the withered comb and 
gills. The common fashion now to prepare poultry for our 
markets is to stick them through the jugular vein, then 
either to scald and pick them, or dry-pick them (as above), 
often leaving attached the tail, neck, and wing feathers, with 
the addition of the head, and sometimes a piece of bloody 
rag around the neck ; all this useless waste is then to be 
weighed, they being generally sold by the pound, thus add- 
ing over half a pound to each fowl above its proper weight. 

The food given to poultry produces great influence on the 
character and flavor of the flesh. Fowls cooped up for a 
few weeks before killing, and fed upon cereal grain, have a 
delicate, tender, and sweet flesh; whilst, on the contrary, 
those that are allowed to run, pick up rancid meats, fat, fish, 

3 



134: THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 






scraps, or other unfit substances, have a corresponding 
taint or taste, and, at the same time, the flesh is less tender 
and less fine-flavored. The conclusion is, the cleaner the 
diet the more delicate the flavor. 

To judge fresh poultry.— The eyes should be full 
and bright, feet moist, soft, and limber. When stale, the 
eyes will be dry and sunken, the feet and legs dry and stiff, 
and if too stale, the body, or some parts of it, will be dark- 
colored, and sometimes green. The " New York Tribune" 
of December 16, 1853, speaks of a lot of chickens, of about 
eight thousand pounds, which had arrived here in a dam- 
aged state, and after remaining on the dock two days, was 
bought up by a speculator for fifty dollars, or six-tenths of 
a cent per pound, for the lot. The poultry, on being un- 
packed, was found in a slimy, tainted condition, on the 
verge of putrefaction. Before being exposed for sale it un- 
derwent a process of being " manufactured over," a process 
well known to the knowing ones. This is accomplished by 
soaking the poultry in alum-water, which relieves it of the 
slime and appearance of decay, and restores it to an appa- 
rently fresh state. " In three days the entire lot was dis- 
posed of, from the sale of which the speculator realized a 
profit of over eight hundred dollars. Poultry that has un- 
dergone this process turns black (when the skin has been 
torn off) after having been exposed a short time to the air." 
In several of our large public markets nearly all kinds of the 
various species of poultry, of the choice, rare, and fancy 
kinds, as well as many species of fancy, curious, and table 
birds, both large and small, are often to be had alive. "With 
these few remarks on poultry, I will proceed with the differ- 
ent species. 

Caponed fowls.-— There is no doubt that the caponed 
fowls stand at the head of all the poultry kind, and they al- 
ways command the highest market price. They are consid- 
ered the greatest delicacies, preserving the tenderness of 
the chicken with the fine juicy flavor of maturity. The 
breed of fowls the most profitable for making capons ap- 



POULTRY. 135 

pears to be the Bucks County fowl, although the Dorkings, 
Cochin-Chin a, and other large breeds, are by some preferred. 
The object, however, appears to be to get large, square, 
heavy-bodied fowls (cockerells are generally used, as the 
hen chickens are smaller and seldom used for that purpose) 
that have a rapid growth. 

One of the largest young capons I ever saw was sold by 
Hedden & Sons, Jefferson Market, March 18, 1859, which 
weighed twelve pounds, and when laid out measured above 
three feet. I have seen heavier, but they were older. They 
also had a pair of nine months old capons, on the 4th of 
April, 1863, which weighed twenty-four pounds, and they 
were not coarse-made, but plump, fat, and fine. 

To judge Oie capon.— Generally the head is small (for 
the size of the body, compared with the uncaponed fowl), 
the comb is quite pale, short, and withered, the feathers on 
the neck, if left on, are longer, and, if quite young, they will 
have smooth legs, and short, thick, soft spurs. The body is 
larger, fatter, more plump and round than the common fowl, 
in proportion, and generally they have a fat vein on each 
side of the breast, running into the hard, fat stomach and 
rump, which is the most unprofitable portion of this fine 
fowl. In some instances the performance of caponizing is 
not complete, when the head and large comb will show 
themselves more like the uncaponed fowl, which gives them 
the appearance of having large bones and less flesh. In 
this state they are called 

Slips, or slip-capons — which are of course inferior 
to the capon, but are generally dressed like them, and very 
often sold for them by the dishonest dealer. 

Chickens. — Many of the poulterers term all under a year 
old " chickens ;" but long before that period arrives many 
hen chickens commence laying, and then they are properly 
called, by many persons, " pullets." The cockerell is also 
considered fully matured when from five to eight months 
old, and begins to enjoy all the rights and privileges of the 
poultry-yard. It certainly cannot be expected that the flesh 



136 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

of these matured birds will be as delicate as the young, 
growing chicken, which is daily making a new and tender 
flesh. Therefore, to designate the young, growing chicken, 
it will not be improper to place them under the head of 

Spring-chicken or broilers. — This name is not an 
uncommon one among some of our best dealers, who deal 
largely in broilers varying from the size of a quail to two or 
three pounds per pair. Although we have them of all sizes 
in almost all the months of the year, yet the greatest portion 
is hatched in February, March, and April, and brought to 
our markets in the spring months. 

In choosing, never select the coarse, long-legged, thin- 
breasted chicken because they are the heaviest, but take the 
plump, full-breasted, partridge-shaped, for juiciness, fine 
grain, and well-flavored eating, besides having plenty of the 
breast-meat and less bone. 

To judge a chicken from a fowl. It is nearly the same as 
judging a young turkey. The lower end of the breast-bone 
is always soft, like the gristle in a person's ear. The spurs 
of a young cockerel are soft, loose, and short. When old, 
the comb and legs are rough, spurs hard and firmly fixed, 
and both cock and hen have a hard breast-bone. There are 
few species of the bird kind more tender than a young 
chicken, and very few tougher than an old cock or hen. 

Mr. Samuel Hazard, of Philadelphia, informs me that 
while he was travelling in the Island of Malta, in the Med- 
iterranean, it was the custom for small families to buy at the 
markets parts of a chicken — the half or a quarter is sold, as 
the purchasers wish. Another curious custom he also no- 
ticed : there being no cows kept for milk, goats are used, 
and the milk-women drive the goats to the customers' doors, 
and there milk from them the quantity desired. Pity we 
could not have our cows' milk obtained in some such man- 
ner, or, rather, as pure. 

Fowls. — This name is generally applied to both the cock 
and hen of the common dunghill fowls, by our dealers gen- 
erally, after having passed the age of one year When 



poultry. 137 

seeking for the best fowls select those which are the young- 
est, plump, fleshy, and fat, and that flesh nearly white. 
When the flesh on the breast will mash under the pressure 
of the thumb, it is best. Among the many breeds producing 
the best fowls are the Dorkings, Polands, Black Spanish, 
Dominiques, etc. The coarse, long-legged, big-boned breeds 
(among which the Shanghais are the poorest), have very 
small breasts according to their size and quantity of bone ; 
their flesh is also coarse and not well flavored. 

Live fowls of all the various kinds, breeds, and conditions, 
are always to be found in our public markets, and large 
numbers are sold to shipping vessels, steamers, etc. This 
business has now become so large, that one firm (Messrs. 
Tilton) in Franklin Market (N. Y.), keep many thousand 
ready for that purpose, and some days their sales and re- 
ceipts of live fowls have been enormous. One of the firm 
told me, that in the month of April, 1862, they received one 
lot, from Indiana, which numbered above 8,000 fowls 
and chickens, w T hich came through on railroad and steam- 
boats, in coops, and were daily fed and watered throughout 
the passage. A large business from the Western States 
has grown up since the rebellion commenced, which closed 
the Mississippi River ; and hereafter, no doubt, we will re- 
ceive their surplus stock. 

A (fowl) curiosity is noticed in the New York Journal, 
December,. 1797. " Captain Bradford, of this town (Boston), 
last week purchased a fowl in the market, of about four 
pounds weight, which on opening for the purpose of cook- 
ing, was discovered to be entirely filled with liver, to the 
exclusion of almost every other kind of entrails. The liver 
commenced its growth in the common place ; but had in- 
creased so enoimously as to occupy almost the whole interior 
cavity, — a small intestinum passing by its side to convey 
and void the food after digestion. The liver weighed up- 
wards of a pound. Several gentlemen of the faculty, and 
many respectable private citizens have viewed and been as- 
tonished at this phenomenon." 



138 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

In the month of January, 1858, I purchased a young 
cockerel, in Jefferson Market, which appeared with a double 
vent and a false rump. I opened it and found the vent con- 
nected after its entrance into the body about half of an 
inch. Both were perfect, and appeared to have been used 
alike. Since that period I obtained another curious speci- 
men — a chicken full grown, with three legs — the third leg 
was fast in an immmovable socket, about one inch to the 
rear of the socket of the left leg. The joints of this extra 
leg were immovable, and without toes. A curious freak 
of nature. 

Bantam fowls. — These very small and generally 
feather-legged fowls, are, I believe, seldom raised for the 
table, but rather as a fancy fowl or curiosity. When found 
" dressed" in our markets, their bodies are not much larger 
than a partridge ; their flesh, however, is finely grained and 
of a superior quality, if the young and fat are chosen. 

Guinea-fowls, or pintada. — The flesh of the 
Guinea-fowl is dark, like that of the grouse, and many con- 
sider it more delicate and savory than the common fowl, 
but not so juicy. They are generally found unpicked in 
our markets, and by raising the feathers on the breast you 
will easily perceive if they are fat and plump. A good 
fowl will weigh from three and a half to five pounds. They 
are considered best in the winter months, when they take 
the place of partridges after they are out of season. When 
alive they make a harsh, grating noise, very much like the 
sharpening or filing of an old saw, and in a flock this noise 
is almost continuous. 

Turkeys. — These splendid birds are almost the year 
through found in our markets, but the best season for them 
is in the fall and winter months, when the young ones are 
in perfection. To judge young turkeys from the old : — the 
young has smooth, and most of them black legs (the young 
"Tom" has, also, short, loose spurs), and a soft, gristly 
breast-bone, at the thin end, where it joins the stomach. 
Some have a very crooked breast-bone, caused from their 



POULTKY. 139 

roosting on a narrow perch, which they at night rest upon, 
but it does not injure their flesh, except to lessen the 
quantity, on the one side or the other, when very crooked 
or deformed. When the legs are rough, the spur of the 
"cock" long and hard, and the breast-bone hard, covered 
with a soft, tough-looking fat skin, these signs are generally 
those of age. 

The young hen, for a small family, is preferred, as they 
are smaller, plump, and generally fatter. But for a large 
family, a fine young " Tom," when well roasted, is a dish 
that can hardly be surpassed. 

The old turkey is best for boning, and generally preferred 
for a plain boil. In March and April, the flesh of all 
turkeys begins to get soft, dry, spongy, and not well flavored, 
although I have eaten, and seen for sale, turkeys that were 
killed, dressed, and drawn, in their proper season, kept 
frozen for nearly five months. On the 10th of May, 1858, 
I purchased one, and found the flesh tender, juicy, and firm, 
but not quite so well flavored as a fresh-killed turkey in its 
season. It has become a large and profitable business (in 
Yermont especially) to prepare them in this manner. They 
are sold in the spring months, and realize one hundred per 
cent, more than the usual price in the fall months. 

Occasionally, very large turkeys are exposed for sale in 
our markets, one of which I saw, January 23, 1852, on the 
stand of Messrs. Packer & Knapp, Washington Market, 
which weighed, dressed, thirty-three pounds six ounces. 
In 1859, Chester K. Crook, No. 55 Bowery, is said to have 
had on exhibition a turkey which was reported to have 
weighed forty-one pounds three ounces, for which he paid 
forty dollars. On the last day of December, 1858, I saw a 
young (spring) turkey, which weighed twenty-one and a 
half pounds, on a stand in Jefferson Market. A still larger 
one, hatched in the month of May, 1864, which came from 
Charles Norton, Esq., near Bristol, Connecticut, who sent it 
to his brother, H. G. Norton, Esq., for his Christmas dinner, 
weighed twenty-five and a half pounds. He also informed 

9 



140 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

me, that his brother, in the spring of 1863, sold a gobbler 
turkey, about four years old, which weighed forty-two 
pounds. 

Ralph H. Avery, Esq., of "Wampsville, Madison County, 
New York, writes me, on the 24th of June, 1858, and says : 
" I have on hand now a turkey gobbler two years old, that 
weighs thirty-two pounds, and is thin ; also a hen turkey 
weighing twenty-one pounds. I sold a gobbler in February, 
1856, that was two years and eight months old, that weighed 
thirty-four pounds, for one dollar per pound. He was pur- 
chased by J. M. Matthews, Esq., of the firm of Matthews, 
Hunt & Co., of your city, and presented to President Bu- 
chanan at his inauguration, and I learn he can now be seen 
in the gardens of the Presidential mansion. He acts, I sup- 
pose, as a member of the ' kitchen cabinet.' " 

The largest turkey, perhaps, ever grown, was owned and 
raised by Widow Lounesberry, Stamford, Connecticut, and 
sold by her to the Union Club of that town for twenty-five 
dollars, and by them sent to President Johnson as a present 
for New Year's Day, 1866. This turkey was not quite two 
years old, yet it weighed, alive, forty-seven pounds !" 

Turkey poults, or half-grown turkeys, are seldom brought 
to our markets; they are considered very delicate and 
tender, but not much flavor, and rather insipid eating. 

Capon Turkey. — The Capon turkey is occasionally found 
in our markets. It is said they are more difficult to raise 
than the Capon fowl, and more destructive to the young 
poultry of all kinds in the yards. When found, they are 
the most delicious eating of all the turkey kind, being more 
tender, juicy, and fine-flavored. 

Fea-£©wl§. — These beautiful birds are generally kept 
for ornament, but when young its flesh is almost or quite 
equal to the turkey. I had a fine young pea-hen, weighing 
just six pounds, roasted, which my family thought quite as 
good as turkey, and I must admit, the dark flesh was quite 
->,s good, if not superior, to any turkey I ever eat, being 
-e tender and sweet. I therefore disagree with an o]d 



POULTEY. 141 

adage, in relation to this bird, as not having a single re- 
deeming quality, which says : " It has the plumage of an 
angel, the voice of the devil, and the stomach of a thief." 
" In ancient times," says Martin, " no great feast in the 
baron's hall was served up without this bird to grace it ; 
well cooked, served on a large dish, but rearranged in its 
gorgeous plumage." 

Taine pigeons. — These beautiful birds, when used 
as food, are found to be dry eating, but well flavored ; if, 
however, they are young, then cooped up and strongly fed 
a few days, their flesh will be more delicate and tender. 
They are only fit to fricassee, stew, or for a pie, etc. 

Many varieties are found for sale alive in our large mar- 
kets, of all kinds and colors, some of which are very beauti- 
ful. They are known as " fancy pigeons," among which 
are the carriers, pouters, or croppers, ruff-heads, tumblers, 
topknots, duffers, fantails, baldpates, magpies, etc. Among 
these the ruff-heads wear a frilled or fanciful cap on their 
heads, and ruffles around their necks, which give them some 
of the appearance of the ladies' ruffles of Queen Elizabeth's 
time. These ruffles are raised feathers, which commence 
behind the head, proceed down their neck, and join on the 
breast. The colored ruffs with white heads are the most 
beautiful. 

The pouters have the power to distend the crop or breast 
with wind, so that it is almost half as large as itself ; then 
the tumbler, which turns over and over while on the wing ; 
and the useful and curious carrier, which has a peculiar- 
looking fleshy tubercle growing on the sides of the eyes and 
bill. They are very strong and swift on the wing, quick- 
sighted, and possess great attachment for the place of their 
birth, which causes them, when carried away from their 
home, even hundreds of miles, to find their way back when 
let loose. In olden times, or until the telegraph had com- 
menced its operations, they were much used to convey mes- 
sages, news, etc. 

Tame squabs, the young of tame pigeons, are usually 



112 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

found the year round in our markets. Their flesh is very 
tender, delicate, and light food, and well adapted for the 
sick. 

.Domesticated swan.— There are several persons in 
this country that have these beautiful and graceful birds 
domesticated, and keep them more as an ornament than for 
the table. In the waters of Central Park large numbers are 
to be seen daily. 

In England, swan-feasts are common in the months of 
September and November, and often as late as Christmas. 

The young, or cygnet, is considered a capital dish, very 
highly esteemed, and never better than in the month of No- 
vember. Yarrell says : " The town-clerk of Norwich sends 
a note from the town-hall to the public swanherd, the cor- 
poration, and others who have swans and swan-rights, on 
the second Monday in August. They are collected in a 
small stream or pond, the numbers varying from fifty to 
seventy, and many of them belonging to private individuals. 
They begin to feed immediately, being provided with as 
much barley as they can eat, and are usually ready for kill- 
ing early in November. They 'vary in weight, some reach- 
ing to twenty-eight pounds. They are all cygnets. If kept 
beyond November, they begin to fall off, losing both flesh 
and fat, and the meat becomes darker in color and stronger 
in flavor." 

Ducks. — There are many breeds of ducks which are 
very fine for the table, among which are the Muscovy, top- 
knot, Cayuga black, etc. A cross between the common and 
Muscovy produces a very large bird at an early age, and is 
considered by many the choicest duck. 

The young, or spring-duck, is always the best ; but some- 
times to select is rather difficult for the uninitiated, as it re- 
quires the experienced eye and hand to judge both the 
young duck and goose. There are, however, some general 
signs which are found correct. The joints in the legs will 
break by their own weight ; the windpipe will also break 
easily under the pressure of the fingers. The lower end of 



POULTBY. 

the flat breast-bone should be soft, and, above all, the 
should be plump and fat. 

Creese. — Among the best breeds, of geese for the table 
are the Bremen, Chinese, African, etc. Hybrids are also 
highly prized for their superior size and flesh. 

To choose the young goose, the same signs as the duck 
will also apply. Usually the bill and feet are yellow (but 
red if old). If the goose has been scalded when dressed, 
the pressure of the thumb and fingers behind and under 
the wing will break the ribs ; a pressure also on the wind- 
pipe will snap or mash like a stiff straw, and a pin's head 
will break through the skin easily. 

The flesh of an old goose is very poor eating, and more 
especially when thin and very old, they are one of the worst 
in the family of poultry. I have known them to live above 
thirty years, and read remarkable stories of their being 
above one hundred years old ; but the following goose story, 
or hoax, must convince all of this fact. Among the articles 
exhibited at the New Jersey State Fair, 1859, was an anti- 
quated goose, which attracted much attention. Its history 
was posted on the coop which contained the venerable bird, 
and read as follows : " Madame Goose is now owned by 
Bobert Schomp, of Reading, Hunterdon County, N. J. She 
has been in his possession twenty-five years, and was given 
to him by his grandfather, Major H. G. Schomp. Robert's 
father is now in his eighty-fifth year, and this goose was a 
gift to his mother as a part of her marriage outfit. The 
mate of Madame Goose was killed in the Revolutionary 
War, being rode over by a troop of cavalry. She enjoys 
general good health, is not so active as she once was, but 
moves about among her descendants with dignity and con- 
siderable activity. In the spring of 1857 she laid six eggs, 
three of which were hatched, and the goslings raised. In 
1858 she made seven nests and laid but two eggs, evidence 
perhaps of failing faculties. Her eyes are becoming dim, 
one having almost entirely failed. The year of her birth 
cannot be known, but she remains a representative of the 



THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

olden time,' and is worthy the respect which honorable age 
should ever command." 

When purchasing, if possible, select those geese which 
are fresh and fat, the head and giblets cut off, and nicely 
drawn, as it will make a saving of nearly two pounds in 
their weight. They are always best in the fall and winter 
months. 

A novel mode of bringing live geese to market was per- 
formed by " a Mr. Downing, formerly a sheep-broker, at 
Browning's (Bull's Head, Sixth-street), who brought to 
market four hundred and seventy-five geese and turkeys, 
and four hundred and fifty chickens. They came in cars, 
were driven like sheep twenty-five miles to Columbus, Ohio, 
and there shipped by Erie Railroad, and sold here same as 
cattle, by pound, live weight — the geese at nine cents per 
pound, and turkeys at ten and a half cents. Eight hundred 
and fifty more are expected on Friday." They, however, 
did not give satisfaction for the table, as their flesh was 
generally tough and dry eating. 

The origin of eating goose on Michaelmas-day is thus 
handed down to us : " Queen Elizabeth, on her way to Til- 
bury Fort, on the 29th of September, 1598, dined at the 
ancient seat of Sir Neville Umfreville, near that place ; and, 
as British Bess had much rather dine off a high-seasoned 
and substantial dish than a flimsy fricassee or a rascally 
ragout, the knight thought proper to provide a brace of fine 
geese to suit the palate of his royal guest. After the queen 
had dined very heartily, she asked for a half-pint bumper 
of burgundy, and drank destruction to the Spanish Armada. 
She had but that moment returned the glass to the knight, 
who had done the honors of the table, when the news came 
(as if the queen had been possessed of the spirit of pro- 
phecy) that the Spanish fleet had been destroyed by a 
storm. She immediately took another bumper, in order to 
digest the geese and good news, and was so much pleased 
with the event, that she, every year after, on that day, had 
the above excellent dish served up. The court made it a 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 145 

custom, and the people have followed the fashion ever 
since." — Commercial Advertiser, Dec. 5, 1806. 

Crreen geese. — This name is applied to the gosling 
that is about three parts grown — say from two to three 
months old, when they have been generously fed and 
allowed to run on fine pasture. Many are prepared for our 
summer tables, and they are considered very fine eating. 

In some parts of Europe they cram their geese to such 
an extent, as, with the addition of heat, to cause their livers 
to increase to one and two pounds weight, which are con- 
sidered a great delicacy. They are sent here in packages, 
and often found on the tables of our foreign ejDicures. 

Giblets. — Thirty years ago it was quite common to find 
tied up in bunches the necks and wings of geese, ducks, 
turkeys, and fowls, for sale under the name of " giblets ;" 
but the cook now adds the heads, gizzards, and livers of all 
kinds of poultry or game-birds to the name. They are 
used for stewing, fricassee, pot-pie, etc. 



WILD-FOWL AND BIKDS, CALLED GAME. 

The variety, quantity, and quality of wild-fowl and birds, 
called game, and others not placed under this head, received 
in the public markets, especially of the city of New York, 
is not surpassed in any other city in the world. The 
prairies of the West, the forest-regions of the North, the 
gulfs and coasts of the Northern and Southern States, and 
even European cities, all contribute to keep well sup- 
lied the wants of our citizen epicures, in every month or 
season of the year. No doubt new and rare varieties of 
game will be added to our already numerous species, as 
the facilities for transportation increase. 

We avail ourselves of a passage from " Frank Forrester's 
Field Sports," which says — " Within a few years, there is 
but little doubt that the Western species (of all game) will 
be exposed for sale in our markets ; and, should Whitney's 



146 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Oregon Eailroad go into effect in our day, who knows but 
we may live to shoot ' cocks of the plains' ourselves, and 
bring them home the next day to dinner at Delmonico's," so 
says the late Henry William Herbert. 

In naming the numerous species of game and other birds, 
I am anxious merely to show those which it is proper to 
take, kill, or destroy, as well as those which directly or in- 
directly affect our tables or are found in our public mar- 
kets. In doing so, I do not wish to encourage the destruc- 
tion of a single life that would be more useful to the 
economy of nature than its dead body for the table. In 
fact, I would go so far as to wish the passage of a United 
States general law that would especially protect all birds 
smaller than the quail, except a few shore-birds, or those 
which are considered and known to be injurious. 

Thousands of birds of the small species are wantonly 
killed merely for the sport, or a few pence. These slaugh- 
tered birds, when alive, destroy millions of insects, flies, 
worms, slugs, etc., penetrating every nook and corner of 
hedge, thicket, or field ; bush and tree, they clear limb after 
limb, while every passing, folded, or withered leaf is care- 
fully examined and deprived of its concealed but destruc- 
tive tenant. Without these useful and beautiful little 
" trespassers," the many destructive insects would increase 
so rapidly as to become almost a plague, by destroying all 
fruit and vegetation ; while the loss of a little fruit or seed 
for their subsistence for a short period would amply repay 
the cultivator for the great services they render him. 

It has been particularly noticed that they do not often 
touch the sound fruit when they can find those that have 
worms in them. From this fact, they should not be driven 
from the fruit-trees : they are friends and benefactors, not 
only to the cultivator but to mankind at large, and to all 
who have a sentiment for all that is beautiful, poetic, and 
most musical of nature's productions. 

Since writing the above, I find game-laws were passed on 
the 6th of April, 1860, which at least protect some of the 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 147 

useful birds, and others called game-birds, for certain 
periods or months. It says, no person or persons shall kill 
or expose for sale " any woodcock between the first day of 
January and the fourth day of July, in each year ; or any 
partridge or ruffed grouse, between the fifteenth- day of 
January and the fifteenth day of October ; or any wood, 
black, or teal duck, between the first day of February and 
the first day of August, in each year, under the fine of two 
dollars for each and every of said birds so killed or had in 
possession. 

" No person or persons shall kill any prairie-fowl or pin- 
nated grouse, in the State of New York, within five years 
from the passage of this act, under a fine of ten dollars for 
each bird so killed. 

"No person or persons shall, at any time, within this 
State, catch any quail (sometimes called Virginia partridge) 
or ruffed grouse, with any trap or snare, under a fine of two 
dollars for each bird so caught." Nor " kill, cage, or trap 
any nightingale, night-hawk, blue-bird, yellow-bird, Balti- 
more oriole, finch, thrush, lark, sparrow, wren, martin, 
swallow, or any bird of the species of woodpecker, or other 
harmless bird ; nor shall any person or persons kill, cage, 
or trap any bobolink or robin, between the first day of Feb- 
ruary and the first day of October, in each year, under a 
fine of fifty cents for each bird so killed, caged, or en- 
trapped." 

WILD-FOWL. 

Wild swan or whistling swan. — This is a scarce 
bird in our markets, although occasionally seen. The cyg- 
nets (young) are very fine eating, but should not be above 
a year or two old. They require five or six years to reach 
maturity. The third year the bill becomes black. Very old 
birds have a hard protuberance on the bend of the last joint 
of the wing. Their season here ranges from November to 
January. 

The " Brooklyn Star," in the winter of 1846, notices that 



148 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

" a flock of white swans made their appearance in Hemp- 
stead Bay, and one of them was shot, weighing seventeen 
pounds." Mr. George T. Saramis, of the Seaside House, 
Rockaway, Long Island, on the 25th of February, 1866, 
found a pair of swans in Jamaica Bay and bagged them 
both, — their wings measuring eight feet extended, and 
weighing twenty-five pounds. 

Trumpeter swan. — This species is not so scarce in 
our markets as the whistling swan ; in fact, nearly all 
brought here are of this species, generally shot in the Ches- 
apeake. The young are pretty good eating, but the old are 
very dry and tough. In season from November to January. 

The most remarkable feature of this bird is, when dis- 
sected, you will find a very lengthy windpipe encased in the 
breast-bone, which, no doubt, is the cause of the loud trum- 
peting sound it makes. 

Wild goose, or Canada goose. This bird is plenty 
here, in its season, and to designate them you will find the 
head and greater part of the neck is black, cheek and throat 
white. The young are very fine eating, and are considered 
superior to the common goose. They are best in October, 
November, and December : although there are not many 
killed in the latter month, yet they are found in our markets 
as late as January. 

This goose is not an uncommon inhabitant of the poultry 
yard, having been domesticated and even bred from. I 
recollect, some forty years ago, Mr. McComb, at Kings- 
bridge, had, for many years, a large flock around his house ; 
but most of their time they spent in the Spuyten Duyvil 
Creek. 

When breeding with the common, the Chinese, or the 
Bremen, this goose produces a hybrid, or mongrel, which 
grows rapidly, and acquires a larger size than either of its 
parents. Their flesh is also of a finer flavor, and commands 
a higher price in our markets. 

Snow-goose or white brant. — Occasionally the 
young of this fine white bird is seen exposed for sale in our 



WILD-FOWL AND BIEDS, CALLED GAME. 149 

markets, and it is said they are superior to the former (Can- 
ada goose), both in juiciness and flavor. When found here 
it is generally in the month of May, and again in November. 

Ill ltd or II lit c hi fits' goose. — This species is not an 
uncommon one in our markets. In size smaller than the 
Canada goose, but appears much like that bird. It is said 
that its flesh is strong and fishy. 

Brant or brent goose. — The flesh of this bird is con- 
sidered fine eating, although, at times, it is a little sedgy, 
which, no doubt, is caused by its " feeding-grounds." The 
adult has entirely black wings, while the young has them 
tipped with grayish white. A good bird will weigh about 
four pounds. Large numbers are found in our markets in 
their season, which appears to be in April and May, when 
some consider them best ; then again, it appears in October, 
November, and December. 

Canvas-back duck. — This, no doubt, is the finest 
and choicest wild-duck known for the table, when in season, 
which generally appears to be in the latter part of Novem- 
ber and through December ; and then, provided they have 
been killed in the Susquehanna, Chesapeake, Potomac, 
and Delaware Rivers, feeding on what is commonly called 
wild celery, they are very fat, fine, tender, and with that 
delicious flavor so much admired. If taken at any other 
season and place they are but little better than some of the 
common sea-ducks. To judge a fine wild-duck, is in their 
superior weight ; and by feeling behind their legs they will 
be plump and full, and of course fat and always good. 

Canvas-back duck received its name from the fact that a 
portion of the back of the drake resembles a piece of canvas. 
The bill of this duck is black, and higher at the base than 
the red-heads, and nearly in a straight line with the head, 
about three inches long. 

They are found in our markets earlier and later than the 
above months, but usually in smaller quantities. Large 
numbers are sent by our swift steamers to Europe, where" 
they command high prices. The question may be properly 



150 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

asked — "Where are all the wild ducks taken that are 
brought and sold in our large cities ?" The wild-duck trade 
is a large business, especially on our southern waters. The 
" Norfolk Herald," of January 8, 1857, will give some idea 
as answer to the above question : 

"Edward Burroughs, Esq., a substantial farmer of Prin- 
cess Anne, Long Island, Back Bay, from time imme- 
morial famous as the resort of wild-ducks and geese, 
has had twenty men employed constantly since the com- 
mencement of the season ; and up to the 20th of December, 
1856, they had consumed in their vocation twenty-three 
kegs of gunpowder, with shot in proportion. The ducks 
which they killed were brought to Norfolk once a week, and 
piled up in the warehouse of Kemp & Buskey, on Boanoke 
Square, where, on every Wednesday, they were packed in 
barrels and shipped for New York by the steamship James- 
town. The number of barrels thus sent off weekly have, up 
to this time, averaged from fifteen to twenty-five barrels, 
and one week the number reached as high as thirty-one. 
They consist of all the varieties of the duck species known 
in our latitude, such as canvas-back, red-heads, mallard, 
black ducks, sprig-tails, bull-necks, bald- faces (or widgeons), 
shovellers, etc., to which may be added a good proportion 
of wild geese." 

Prior to 1820 there were but few canvas-back ducks 
brought to our public markets ; in fact, those that were 
brought either to New York or Boston were shot by sports- 
men from those cities, who made annual visits down to the 
Chesapeake and Susquehanna, and brought these and 
other game home ; when a few friends, or those celebrated 
caterers, Niblo and Sykes, were sure to receive all that 
could be spared, as they were generous in the prices paid 
for them, which, no doubt, soon led to their more general 
demand and introduction. The " Commercial Advertiser," 
December 13, 1822, thus notices canvas-back ducks : " We 
have had an unusual supply this season of this delicious 
species of the wild-duck from Havre de Grace. At no for- 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 151 

mer season do we recollect to have seen them so abundant, 
and at the same time so fine. A single pair out of the lot 
sent to Mr. Niblo the other day weighed twelve pounds. 
We are informed that both he and Mr. Sykes have made 
arrangements for receiving regular supplies of them from 
the Susquehanna and Chesapeake, during the winter." 
And for many years they received principally all the can- 
vas-backs sent to this city for sale. 

About fifty years ago this dainty bird was found to fre- 
quent the Hudson River. This fact was noticed at that 
period as follows : " The principal feeding-place is in the 
neighborhood of Pollepel's Island and Fishkill Landing, 
where they sometimes overspread acres of water. There 
the valisiwria grows plentifully a little above the reach of 
the salt water : and these diving ducks resort there to feed 
on it in great numbers. When the ice prevents their ob- 
taining their favorite food, they take their departure, and 
return in the spring as soon as the river opens." 

Until very lately, the gunners used to confound these 
birds with broad-bills, red-heads, and other ducks, and sell 
them all together. There was then no difference in the 
price. Twenty-five cents would purchase a canvas-back as 
readily as an ordinary duck. But now the distinction is 
well understood by the fowlers. They bring them to mar- 
ket, and offer them for sale as true and real canvas-back 
ducks. The lovers of good eating buy them eagerly, and 
the price of a pair of these rare birds has risen to two 
and three dollars. Good preparations of the New York 
male and female were made by Mr. De la Coste, and are 
now in the collection of ornithology in Princeton College ; 
and another pair from the Hudson, in fine preservation, is 
in the possession of P. A. Schenck, Esq., the Surveyor of 
the Port of New York. — Med. Rejpos., vol. x. 

Red-head, or Pochard.— This is also an excellent 
duck, and frequently sold for the canvas-back to those who 
do not know the difference, as it is much like that bird. 
The bill is of a bluish color, and towards the end it is 



152 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

black, and about two and a quarter inches long, a little 
curved from the head. This duck commands a high price, 
but not so high as the preceding. Their season commences 
in November, and they are found sometimes very plenty all 
the winter long, and then again in straggling numbers ; but 
their flesh is best for the table in the two first months. 

Mallard. — This beautiful and very fine duck is second 
to none, except the canvas-back and red-head, for the table. 
The color of the head and upper part of the neck is of a 
deep green, with a white ring about the middle of the neck. 
Its flesh is considered best in the autumn months, but the 
bird is found scattering along through the winter months. 

Black duck, or dusky duck.— This duck is very 
fine eating when fat and taken from the fresh water ; but 
when the lakes and ponds are covered with ice, they betake 
themselves to the salt waters, when their flesh assumes a 
fishy flavor, and becomes rather dry eating. Tliej- appear 
in our markets in the months of September, October, No- 
vember, and December. In the two latter months they are 
frequently found in the best condition, and are highly es- 
teemed. I have seen them scattering along until May. 

Wood duck, or summer duck.— This most beau- 
tiful species of the wild duck confines itself entirely to the 
fresh water, where it is more or less shaded by trees and 
bushes, although sometimes it will alight on trees (the only 
species of duck that do so), generally on the limbs that are 
quite bare or dead. Its principal food are insects, seeds, 
and plants, which render its flesh excellent eating, without 
the fishy flavor so objectionable to many. They are not so 
large as the black duck. Many are taken alive in nets, 
and pften sent to Europe to be kept either for breed or or- 
nament. In season in the months of August, September, 
October, and a few stragglers in November. 

A beautiful male duck of this species was shown at the 
Horticultural and Agricultural Fair held by the American 
Institute in September, 1860. Some two or three were pur- 
chased at Boston by Mr. Simpson, of Westchester County, 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 153 

N. Y., who tamed them so as to eat out of hand, and 
this one was exhibited at this Fair, where it attracted 
much attention. 

BaM-pate, or American widgeon. — This duck, 
when taken feeding with the canvas-back, or rather steal- 
ing from them their food (wild celery), are excellent. 
"When the canvas-back rises from the bottom, they snatch 
the delicious morsel, and then make off. Their flesh then is 
considered of an excellent flavor, and much esteemed. 
Found in season in the months of October, November, and 
December, but best in the two latter. 

Broad-bill, blue-bill, or scaup duck.— This 
bird is common in our markets in their season, which com- 
mences about the 1st of October, and continues until the 
severe cold drives it further South. When fat, the flesh is 
much esteemed. Another called, 

Creek broad-bill, or lesser scaup duck, is 
closely allied to the preceding, but inferior in size ; about 
the same quality and season. And still another broad-bill, 
called 

Bastard broad-bill, ring-necked, or tufted 
duck, is much like the broad-bill, except the slate-colored 
markings on the wings. They are not at all plenty, but 
found scattering in the spring and fall months. They are 
considered good eating when found fat in the fall months. 

Blue- winged teal. — This small duck, it is said, is the 
first of its tribe that returns to us in the autumn from the 
North. Their flesh is excellent, as they feed chiefly on 
vegetable food, when they become very fat. They are here 
in season in September, October, and November. 

Green- winged teal. — This little duck, like the two 
preceding, is a fresh-water duck, and feeds upon the same 
kinds of food. If there is any difference in the eating 
qualities of these two teal, I should give it in favor of this 
little duck. It is quite common in our markets in Septem- 
ber, October, November, and December, and scattering in 
January. 



154 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

" A good shot" is noticed in the Philadelphia Gazette, Oc- 
tober, 1822, which states that "Mr. Hart of the Lazaretto 
Inn, opposite Tinicum Island, on Friday afternoon (4th 
inst.), started sixteen teal, and, with one shot, killed fifteen 
of the number — a circumstance which is, perhaps, unpre- 
cedented in this species of sport. They all proved to be 
very fine and fat." 

Pintail dock, winter duck, sprig-tail duck* 
— This duck is found more plentifully at the West than 
here, although we have them some seasons in large num- 
bers in the fall months, and scattering in the first winter 
months. Its flesh is very savory and quite tender, i 

Gray duck, Welsh drake, German duck, or 
gad wall. — This is a beautiful and rather scarce duck here, 
but, when found, its flesh will give the epicure perfect satis- 
faction. The sportsman finds it a difficult bird to kill, on 
account of its expertness in diving ; it is said, however, that 
it has been successfully domesticated. 

Shoveller, or spoonbill. — This handsome duck is 
by many highly prized for the table, as its flesh is tender, 
juicy, and delicate. The bill of this bird is peculiarly 
shaped and very large, being about three inches in length, 
of a black color, and much the widest towards the ex- 
tremity, which gives it somewhat the appearance of a 
shovel, and is, no doubt, the origin or cause of its name. 
The whole bird is beautifully marked, and is in season in 
April, and again in the fall months, but rather scarce. 

Weaser, buff-breasted merganser, or goosan- 
der. — Three of these beautiful ducks I had the pleasure of 
seeing in the possession of Mr. Abraham Snediker, a dealer 
in game-birds, Washington Market, on the 22d of January, 
1856. He said they went by the name of " weasers." They 
were very fat and heavy. Its flesh is best in the fall and 
winter ; in the spring it becomes oily and rancid. 

Harlequin duck.— This handsomely-marked duck is 
rarely seen in our markets. It is known by some sports- 
men as the " Lord" and " Brass-eyed Whistler." It is highly 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 155 

spoken of for the table by those who have partaken of its 
flesh. The only one I have ever seen was among the col- 
lections of Mr. John G. Bell, the noted taxidermist, of New 
York, to whom I am much indebted for information in rela- 
tion to some birds and game animals. 

Whistler, or golden-eye duck. — This duck is 
called by many " Great-head," from its beautiful, rich, and 
thickly-crested head. In the month of November its flesh 
is considered fine, and of an agreeable flavor, as it then 
generally feeds in fresh water. At other seasons its flesh is 
strong and fishy. 

Salt-water teal, or ruddy duck. — This appears to, 
be a scarce duck here ; but they are sometimes found here 
in the months of September and October, when it is fat and 
its flesh very savory. 

Dipper, butter-ball, or buffiel-headed duck.— 
This duck is found very fat throughout the winter, when 
their flesh is quite savory, but somewhat fishy, as its food 
consists of small fish. In season from October to March. 

Old wife, old squaw, long-tailed duck.— This 
is a plentiful bird in our markets in the winter and spring 
seasons. The general character of its flesh is tough, strong, 
and fishy ; but the young bird, when fat and properly 
cooked, is very fine eating. It is usually sold at low prices. 

Squaw duck, shoal duck, or eider duck — 
This is a scarce species here, as it belongs to a more north- 
ern latitude ; but it is sometimes taken here in severe win- 
ters. Its flesh is quite oily and fishy, but its down is of a' 
superior quality, and valuable. 

One of this species was shot in 1859, in the Miscomet 
Pond, Manchester, N. H., upon whose tongue a large 
muscle had fixed with a firm grasp. " The duck had prob- 
ably seized upon the open muscle for a meal, and his 
muscleship, not liking such treatment, had closed his shell 
upon the tongue of the duck, and was thus torn from his 
bed. The instinct of the duck had probably led him to 
seek the fresh water, for the purpose of making him relax 



lob THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

his £ie boat going over some seaweed, and would soon get 
clear again. It not doing so, however, he examined the 
cause of the stoppage when the boat arrived at New York. 
After taking off the injection valve and a portion of the 
pipe, he found in it, tight up against the guard of the valve, 
a large (loon) duck, weighing seven pounds, which had been 
drawn into it by the force of the vacuum created by the 
engine. Mr. Vanderbilt thinks that the duck must have 
dived when the boat approached it, as, when it was found, 
its head was downward, with its back towards the bow of 
the vessel."* The duck was stuffed as a curiosity, and 
afterwards presented to Barnum for his Museum, but was 
burnt up, with many thousands of curiosities, many of which 
can never be replaced. 



BIRDS CALLED GAME, 

And others, which 
are found in our 
markets. 
Wild turkey. 

This fine bird is oc- 
casionally found in 
our markets, in its 
season — generally in 
the months of No- 
vember, December, 
and January. They 
are chiefly sent from 
Pennsylvania, and 
sometimes further 
west, arriving here in a frozen state. The flesh of a fine 
young wild turkey is darker, and considered more delicate, 

* Commercial Advertiser, April 30, 1847. 
Note.— For the above representation of the wild turkey, and three other 
illustrations used in this work, I am much indebted to the editors of the 
"American Agriculturist," whose volumes teem with useful and interesting 
matter of all kinds. — Editor. 




WILD TURKEY. 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 159 

more succulent, and better, or more gamey tasted than that 
of the tame turkey. They are in the best condition in the 
month of November. "When found in our markets they 
have all their feathers on. The bill is short and thick, head 
small in proportion to the body ; half of the neck (especially 
of the male bird) is covered with a naked, bluish skin, on 
which are a number of red, wart-like lumps. On the lower 
part of the neck, near the breast, is a fleshy substance, full 
of long, black, coarse hair. The feathers are of a glossy 
dark color, almost black, with bronze spots on the wings 
and tail. Their usual weight is from nine to twenty pounds, 
but I have read of their weighing above forty pounds. The 
" Commercial Advertiser," September 9, 1801, notices — " A 
remarkable large wild turkey, weighing twenty-two pounds 
dressed, was shot, on the 1st inst., by G. L. Barret, within 
a short distance of Mr. Scriba's seat, Newark, N. J." We 
also find in Archdale's North Carolina, that in the year 
1707, was purchased " a wild turkey of forty pounds, for 
the value of two-pence, English value." 

Partridge, pheasant, or ruffed grouse. — These 
excellent birds are found in great plenty in our markets, 
from about the 1st of September to the 1st of January ; but 
they are best, especially the chicken partridge, in October 
and November, although they are found earlier and later. 
They are smuggled in by " poachers" and " pot-hunters," to 
avoid the proper " game laws," who then sell them under 
the name of owls, or some other fictitious name, to others, 
who also regard no law where taste is consulted or money 
to be made. These wholesome " game laws" were made 
not only for the protection of birds, etc., but also for the 
protection of our citizens, when such birds were out of sea- 
son, and known to be unfit, unwholesome, and even poison- 
ous. In very cold winters, and particularly heavy snow- 
storms, the partridge should not be eaten, as they are then 
deprived of their ordinary food, become thin, poor, and 
starved, and are forced to feed upon the leaves of the poi- 
sonous evergreens. They have been found with their crops 



160 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

filled with the green laurel, and in that state their flesh is 
considered unfit to be eaten. There are many instances of 
persons having been poisoned by eating them in these im- 
proper seasons. . 

It is said that we have no partridge or pheasant in this 
country, that they are all grouse ; the reason they give is 
that they are all feathered on the legs below the termina- 
tion of the thigh, and some quite to the toe-nails. The par- 
tridge, or ruffed grouse, is feathered below the knee ; and 
the prairie hen, or pinnated grouse, as also the Canada 
grouse, is feathered down to the ankles. The flesh of the 
partridge is tender, fine flavored, and generally much es- 
teemed. 

Prairie-hen, heath-hen, prairie-chicken, or 
pinnated grouse. — This fine game-bird is somewhat 
the color, form, and size of the partridge, but more regularly 
marked, or barred, on the breast. The tail feathers are 
fan-like, but quite short and thick, and the neck has on 
each side a feathery mane hanging down. Prior to 1830, 
this bird was quite plentiful on Long Island, as well as deer, 
but since that period the grouse have entirely disappeared, 
and the few deer left are protected by law. 

The " Suffolk Gazette," March 25, 1805, gives us some 
facts in a few verses of poetry : 

" Here on Smith's Point we take our stand, 
When free from toil's gymnastics, 
Where death and lead go hand in hand, 
Among the fowl at Mastic. 

" The grouse, the pheasant, and the quail, 
In turn we take by changes, 
Or hunt the buck with flippant tail, 
As thro' the wood he ranges." 

The " Gazette," of the 16th November, 1821, also says : 
" A very fine pair of grouse, from Long Island, were offered 
in our markets for five dollars." 

A few years later, 1826, 1 have known these birds to bring 
eight and ten dollars per pair ; and thirty-five years after— 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 161 

1861 — I bought them as low as thirty-eight cents, and sev- 
eral times at fifty cents per pair. About the year 1827, a 
few pairs were occasionally brought from Pennsylvania, 
which Niblo would generally purchase, and then announce 
that he had secured a few pairs, when the epicures either 
purchased from him or eat his " game dinners," which were 
duly announced. 

Within the last fifteen year's they have been brought from 
the West — Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, etc. — in large numbers, 
in fact, so large as to create a glut in the winter and early 
spring months. They begin to arrive in October, and con- 
tinue until the month of April ; usually brought in barrels 
and other packages in a frozen state. Their flesh is quite 
dark, but from a young fat bird it is excellent eating ; and 
when purchasing select the heaviest as the best, at the same 
time try the feathers around the vent ; if they pull easily 
they are apt to be too stale ; the nose must also be brought 
into use to detect the least unpleasant smell. 

Sharp-tailed grouse. — This fine bird is sometimes 
found with the prairie hen, in the quantities sent here. The 
color is nearly the same, but the markings are not so regu- 
lar on the breast, being scolloped-like ; the tail feathers are 
shorter, except two or more in the centre, which are slim 
and about one inch longer ; and all except these are tipped 
with white. The feathers on the legs are also shorter. 
They are also excellent eating. 

Spruce partridge or Canada grouse. — This is a 
rare bird and seldom or never found in our markets ; but 
they are, nevertheless, sent or brought to our city in small 
numbers from Maine, Massachusetts, the Canadas, etc. The 
back feathers are of a very dark gray color, with a fan-tail, 
tipped with light brown, and the breast has several black 
and white feathers mottled together. The flesh is dark, and 
only fit to be eaten when it feeds on berries. In winter it 
feeds on leaves and plants, when the flesh becomes bitter, 
and has sometimes a strong, disagreeable taste, as if cooked 
in turpentine. 

11 



162 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Willow grouse, or white grouse. — At first sight 
this very rare bird appears like a white pigeon, with its 
winter plumage on. In summer it changes to quite a 
brownish red, and mottled in the spring and fall months, 
but always with a few dark or black feathers on the sides 
of the tail. About the size of the partridge, but not so fine 
eating. 

Cock of the plains, or sage cock. — This is an- 
other rare bird, and a great deal larger than the preceding 
birds ; it is said that the average weight of a full-grown 
bird is above ten pounds. Travellers give it the name of 
sage cock in consequence of the taste of its flesh, from the 
fact that it feeds principally upon a species of wormwood 
or artemisia, which grows plentifully on the great Western 
plains. It is a beautiful large-breasted gray bird, especially 
the cock, when in full plumage. 

California quail. — We occasionally meet with this 
pretty and somewhat smaller-bodied bird than our common 
quail, but quite as good eating. It is covered with a dark 
blue, and gray or steel-looking feathers, with white-tipped 
feathers interspersed on the lower part of the breast. The 
male and female have black plumes on their heads; the 
male's plume bends gracefully over towards its bill : it has 
also a line of white feathers, which look like a wreath 
hanging around its neck, commencing from the back of the 
eye and running down on the breast about one and a half 
inches. While on the subject of scarce game, it would be 
well to introduce here several species of English game 
which are sometimes found here. 

English pheasant. — These beautiful long, and sharp- 
tailed birds I have often seen for sale in the markets, and 
they are also occasionally sent to friends here from the 
other side. I saw a very fine pair of fresh-killed birds — 
both cocks — on sale, in Jefferson Market, which were raised 
on an island near Newport, Rhode Island, by Robert L. 
Maitland, Esq., of New York. He succeeded in raising the 
first birds from eggs, which were carefully brought from 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 163 

England, and from these he has produced several broods. 
The price asked for this pair was ten dollars; and they 
weighed four and three-quarter pounds. The body of these 
beautiful birds are larger and longer than our partridge, 
and the flesh from a fine young one is considered its equal, 
although I must say, the conclusion from my experience 
was different. We eat them here under disadvantages : 
generally birds of the finest plumage, and of course " old 
birds," are sent to us, or they have been too long killed, and 
this cause may apply to all the English game. Best in 
September and October. 

English partridge. — This bird somewhat resembles 
our quail, but about half as large again ; and is considered 
for the table next only to the preceding. 

Black cock, or black grouse. — This black game- 
bird of England is almost as large as our partridge, and its 
flesh stands next in quality to the English partridge. 

Red grouse, or moor cock. — This bird is smaller 
and not so highly esteemed as the preceding, and is not 
found here so plenty, but in the " old country" it has many 
friends. 

English woodcock. — This bird is much like our 
woodcock, but much larger, and seldom found here. 

The above are all the " English game" brought here, ex- 
cept hares and rabbits, which are larger and somewhat 
inferior eating than these species of America. 

Quail. — These fine game-birds (known at the South as 
partridge) are generally found in great plenty in our markets, 
in their season, except in cases where the preceding winters 
have been unusually stormy, cold, and the ground lay 
covered with snow a long time, by which many quail perish 
under snow-banks, or from starvation. Many in this frozen 
state are picked up and sent to our markets for sale. This, 
however, generally occurs late in such seasons, or when the 
game laws are against their use. The years following these 
severe seasons will sometimes show great scarcity, and very 
high prices are charged for these fine birds. 



164 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Many thousands are brought from the far West in a frozen 
state. As soon as the frosty weather sets in, the great 
slaughter of Western game takes place, and hundreds of 
boxes of quail and other game are sent from Wisconsin, 
Illinois, Iowa, etc., for the eastern cities, where they arrive 
generally in good condition ; however, those which are 
killed near by are to be preferred. 

The flesh of the quail is white, tender, and delicate. One 
of the best-flavored game birds. Their size is about one- 
third of the partridge or ruffed grouse. 

"Woodcock. — This highly prized bird is in season from 
the first of July to the first of November, and brings the 
highest price of any bird brought to our markets. Its flesh 
is no doubt the most delicate eating of all the birds known, 
and generally found best in the month of October. The 
head of the woodcock is large, and somewhat triangular, 
with the eye fixed high in the head, a great distance from 
its long bill, the body about the size of the quail, and a fine 
bird will weigh half a pound. 

The largest woodcock found on record, was shot by 
Eichard Tetley, in Washington township, New Jersey, in 
1859. It measured in length from tail to beak, twelve and 
a quarter inches ; width around the breast ten and a half 
inches ; over the back three inches ; height seven and three 
quarter inches ; weight, one pound one ounce. 

English snipe, common snipe, or Wilson's 
snipe. — These birds, though small, are excellent eating 
when in condition. The richness and delicacy of their 
flesh is considered second only to that of the woodcock. 
Their bills are about twice as long as their head, neck short, 
legs slender, feet bluish gray, feathers brownish black on 
the back, below grayish yellow, and a much smaller bird 
than the woodcock. They are found in our markets from 
about the 20th of March to the 20th of April ; then again, 
in (small numbers), in October. 

Mr. J. T. Brownwere while hunting for snipe in a swamp, 
about three-quarters of a mile from Bushwick Ferry, L. I., 



WILD-FOWL AND BH1DS, CALLED GAME. 165 

in the month of September, 1815, met with a Southern 
stranger, in the shape of an alligator. The press says : 
" While in the act of levelling his piece at a flock of snipes, 
he discovered the alligator within a few yards of the spot 
where he stood, making towards him, when he instantly 
lodged the contents of the piece in its throat and killed it." 

Robin snipe, or red-breasted sandpiper.— This 
red-breasted snipe is well known, and its flesh highly prized 
by many of our epicures as a great delicacy. Their season 
commences in April and May, and again in August, Sep- 
tember, and October. The latter month they are considered 
best, and are then often known as white-robin snipe, in con- 
sequence of the light change of their feathers. 

Crray plover, grass, field, or upland plover.— 
The proper name of this much-esteemed game-bird appears 
to be Bartram's sandpiper. They are generally found in 
our markets in June, July, August, and September. It is 
considered best and most highly prized in the two latter 
months. 

Frost plover, greenback or golden plover — 
This delicious bird is known among many sportsmen and 
others as plover and frost-bird. They sometimes appear in 
numbers in the months of April and May, and then again 
in September and October, when they are in fine condition, 
their flesh well flavored, and sell quickly at high prices. 

Ring plover, or ring-neck. — This small bird ap- 
pears quite numerous some seasons in our markets. Many 
are killed in the fall months, especially in September and 
October, when they are considered best for the table. 

Beach bird, or piping plover. — This bird is found 
scattering in season from April to October. Tn the months 
of September and October it gets very fat, when its flesh is 
excellent. 

Brant bird, norse-fbot snipe, or turns tone. — 
This fine bird is much sought after by gunners, and is often 
found in large numbers for sale. It makes its appearance 
early in the months of April and May, and again in Sep- 



166 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

tember and October, when it is in fair condition and much 
esteemed. 
Dowitcher, quail snipe, or red-breasted snipe. 

—This bird appears in our markets in large numbers when 
in their season. They begin to show themselves in April 
and May, and then again from the 15th to the 20th of July, 
and so continue until the end of October. It appears in the 
best condition in September and October, but its flesh is not 
considered a delicacy, although well flavored. 

Bull-headed or beetle-headed plover, Mack- 
bellied or whistling- plover.— This bird is generally 
quite plenty in our markets early in May, and then again in 
August and September. In the two latter months it is in 
a very fat condition, and its flesh quite well flavored. 

Kildeer plover. — This bird is generally known as kil- 
deer. It is sometimes found in our markets in the months 
of July, August, and September, and when in good condi- 
tion its flesh is considered good eating. 

Sanderling, or ruddy plover.— This small bird 
may be had in May, and then again in August, September, 
October, and November. It is generally fat and fine in the 
fall months, when it is much esteemed. 

Marlin s or great marbled godwit. — This large 
bird also enjoys the name of red curlew by some gunners. 
The flesh is quite tender and juicy, when in good condition. 
In season in May, and again from August to November. 

Ring-tailed marlin, or EEudsonian godwit.— 
This bird is not so plentiful as the preceding, but about the 
same quality for the table. The season the same. 

Black-breasted snipe, winter snipe, or red- 
backed sandpiper. — This small bird is sometimes 
found in great plenty. It first appears in our markets in 
April and May, and then again in September and October, 
when some give it the name of winter snipe, dunlin, ox-bird, 
and purries. It is then usually very fat, and excellent 
eating. 

BufPhreasted sandpiper. — This bird is rather 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 167 

scarce, although a few are sometimes found tied up with 
the meadow snipe, for sale. Found in August and Septem- 
ber, but more plenty, very fat and excellent, in October and 
November. 

ILong legged sandpiper. — This long-legged bird is 
not at all common in our markets, although some seasons 
several little " bunches" appear in the months of July, Au- 
gust, and September. 

ftleadow snipe, or pectoral sandpiper. — This 
excellent bird is known by several different names in various 
places. Giraud says it is termed by bay-men short-neck ; 
on the coast of New Jersey, fat-bird ; and in Pennsylvania 
jack-snipe. A few are found in our markets in the month 
of May, but more plenty in August and September, and in 
a very fat condition in the months of October and Novem- 
ber, when it is much sought after. 

Yellow-legged snipe, or yellow-shank tattler. 
— This is a common snipe, and well known to our sports- 
men. Some seasons they are quite plenty in April and 
May, and then again in August and September. I have 
shot them near Kingsbridge above thirty years ago, where 
they were occasionally found in large numbers. They are 
best in the fall months, but are not much esteemed for the 
table. 

Greater yellow-legged snipe, or tell-tale tat- 
tler. — These birds are not so numerous as the preceding, 
but found generally earlier in the spring and later in the 
fall months. Their flesh is well flavored, and more es- 
teemed in October and November. 

Willet, or semi-palmated tattler. — This bird ap- 
pears early in the month of May, when it is considered a 
very fair bird for the table, but a more pleasing game-bird 
to the sportsman in the month of October. Many of this 
and other species are brought from the South in the oyster 
and other sailing vessels. 

Bluestocking, or American avocet.— This blue- 
legged bird is also known on the Southern coast as the hiu- 



168 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

yer, from whence it is occasionally brought by the coasting 
vessels. A few also are found here, brought from Long 
Island. They are not much esteemed for the table. In 
season early in May, and then again in October and No- 
vember. 

^Lawyer, or black-necked stilt. — Although this is 
a scarce bird here, yet they are, as the preceding, brought 
here in the oyster and fishing vessels, and, like all other 
rare or scarce species, are quickly bought up, if at all in a 
good condition, for the taxidermist or others. The season 
same as preceding. 

Long-billed curlew, or sickle-billed curlew.— 
This long arch-billed bird is often found in our markets 
in the. spring and autumn months. But, like the short- 
billed, or jack curlew, their flesh is considered indifferent 
eating. In the fall months they are quite fat, but are not 
even then very well flavored. 

In 1838 Daniel Fordham, of Southampton, Long Island, 
killed a curlew, which measured from the tip of the bill to 
the tip of the tail two feet three inches ; from the tip of its 
wings, three feet five inches ; length of the bill eight inches, 
and weighed one pound fourteen ounces. 

Futes, or Esquimaux curlew. — This bird in the 
Eastern States is called the doe-bird. The flesh when 
in a lat condition is well flavored, and the best of all the 
curlews. 

Flood gull, or oyster catcher.— This bird, although 
scarce, finds its way to our markets in the summer months. 
One of our oldest dealers (Snedicor) calls this bird flat-foot 
snipe, and also says that its flesh has not many admirers. 
Many agree with him on this point. Its flesh is dark- 
colored, and quite strong and unpalatable. 

Seaside finch, or gray shore-finch. — "Giraud" 
says : " This species is familiar to all our sportsmen who 
practise bay-shooting." It is sometimes found in our 
markets in the summer months, but its flesh is quite indif- 
ferent eating, being somewhat fishy. 



WILD-FOWL AND BIEDS, CALLED GAME. 169 

Shore lark, or horned lark.— This bird is also 
known by some as the sky-lark. " Wilson" says : " They 
are frequently brought to Philadelphia markets. They are 
generally very fat, and are considered excellent eating." In 
season, though scattering, nearly all the winter months, in 
some of our markets. 

Brown lark. — This species of the lark is not quite so 
plenty here as the preceding. Generally found here in the 
months of March, April, and May, when their flesh is said 
to be equal to the shore lark. 

Semi-pal mated sandpiper. — These small birds 
generally appear in small quantities in our markets in the 
months of April and May, and then again quite plenty in 
September and October, when it is in fine condition and 
delicate eating. 

Ox-eyes, little, or Wilson's sandpiper. — This is 
a still smaller bird than the preceding, but more plentiful, 
and much better in flavor and juiciness. They are also best 
in the months of September and October. 

Schinz's sandpiper. — This bird, like many others, is 
no doubt scarce, but is occasionally found with others of its 
species in our markets along in the summer and autumn 
months. 

Wood tattler, green-rump tattler, or solitary 
tattler. — This pretty, trim bird is sometimes found, but 
generally in small quantities, in our market. It is said to 
be delicate eating. In season in May, and again in August 
and September. 

Teeter-tail, tilt-np, or spotted sandpiper.— 
These little birds are seldom brought to our markets in 
large quantities, although they remain on our shores and 
streams from April to November. They are a delicate 
morsel, when fat, which is in the fall months. 

Sora, English, or Carolina rail. — This trim-look- 
ing bird is seldom seen for sale, although it is much sought 
after, and some seasons it is found quite plenty by sports- 
men in New Jersey. Its flesh is of an exceedingly delicate 



170 THE MAEKET ASSISlkNT. 






/ 

flavor, and much enjoyed by epicure^. In the best condition 
in September- 
Meadow hen, or clapper rati, — This bird is some* 
times found in plenty in our markets, but not much sought 
after, although when in good condition it is very well tasted 
and tender. In the month of May it is generally quite 
poor and not well flavored, but usually fine and fat in the 
months of September and October. Their eggs are more 
highly prized by some than their flesh, and thousands are 
found in the salt grass. 

Virginia rail, fresh- water marsh, or little 
mud-hen. Occasionally this bird appears in our markets 
in the months of April and May, and then again in Sep- 
tember and October ; its flesh is not very delicate, but con- 
sidered best in the fall months. 

Mine water-hen — Virginia water-hen. — This 
water bird (it is said) is brought principally from Virginia 
to our markets. I have seen in Fulton Market (December 
31st, 1855) several of these birds in very good condition, 
which were called Virginia water-hens. Their color was of 
a dirty blue, the tips of the centre feathers of the wings 
were white, as also the under side of the tail feathers ; legs 
dark green, and about half web-footed ; the head had the 
appearance of a young pullet. 

American coot, hen-foill, mnd-hen. — This bird is 
often killed by sportsmen, but seldom sent to market, as it 
is quite inferior eating. It is, however, sometimes seen 
there, in the fall months, for sale. 

Black gull, or Mack tern. — This species, as well as 
many of its varieties, are occasionally found in our markets 
for sale : I should suppose not so much for the table as for 
the collectors. The flesh of the black tern is considered 
better tasted and more palatable than any of its species, in 
consequence of its food being collected near the fresh-water 
streams. " Giraud" says : " The flesh of the gulls and terns 
not being considered suitable for the table, they escape the 
torture to which birds of a more delicately-flavored flesh 



WILD-FOWL AND BIEDS, CALLED GAME. 171 

are subjected. Still, they are not entirely exempt from per- 
secution, as there are those who fancy a gull's egg an ex- 
ceedingly delicate morsel. 

"The Florida Keys, which are the breeding-places for 
great numbers of gulls and terns of various species, are 
resorted to annually by ' eggers' — persons who make a busi- 
ness of collecting the eggs of these marine birds" — and 
those known to be fresh are taken to the West Indies, where 
they are by many highly esteemed. " The fishermen, I am 
told, make free use of the eggs ; those of some species, they 
say, are exceedingly well tasted, affording palatable and 
nourishing fare." 

CJreat Mue heron or crane. — This long-legged, 
long-necked, and long-billed bird, I have often seen when 
brought to our markets, but presumed it was brought more 
for the curious than for the table. Although a large, 
awkward, coarse bird, it is said by some of my friends, that 
when young and in good condition its flesh is well flavored, 
and not coarse, as its appearance would indicate. Best in 
the fall months. 

"Singulae Phenomenon. — A gentleman residing at Ho- 
boken, N. J., informs us that great numbers of woodcock 
have been destroyed by a flock of cranes, which have in- 
fested that neighborhood during the present week. For 
the veracity of the gentleman from whom this intelligence 
is derived, we will vouch." — " Commercial Advertiser," June 
20, 1807. 

Quawk, night heron, or black-crowned heron. 
— Although this bird is seldom seen in our markets, yet it 
is often shot and eaten, and I believe much better for the 
table than the preceding, as it feeds more upon frogs, mice, 
etc., or I may say, that it lives more upon "fresh meat 
than on salt." Many years ago, they appeared to be more 
plenty than they are at present. 

White poke, snowy heron, or white-crested 
heron. — This also is a scarce bird in our markets, like 
many other beautiful, rare, or scarce birds, which are 



172 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

previously engaged and kept for those who are daily look- 
ing after them for their collections. The young are best 
when in condition, in the fall months. 
©reen heron, schyte-poke, or fly-sip-the-creek. 

— This is a common bird in most of our creeks, and some- 
times finds its way to our markets ; its flesh, when in con- 
dition, is very well flavored, and considered best in the fall 
months. 

A friend of mine on a hunting excursion in New Jersey, 
had shot several of these birds along the edge of one of the 
fresh-water streams, which he found were very fine and fat, 
and he lagged them ; he, however, came suddenly upon one 
which did not take wing, but sat quite motionless : he ad- 
vanced towards it with the expectation of finding it a dead 
bird, set-up; he saw it move and he shot it: when he picked 
it up, he found that it must have been in the act of swallow- 
ing a cat-fish, when its two sharp horns had got crossways 
in its throat, where the points had run through each side ; 
which, no doubt, had closed its throat from all other food, 
and when thus found, it was so poor and exhausted that it 
could not fly. He informs me that the taste of their flesh 
is much like that of the meadow lark, Indian hen, American 
bittern, or look-up. This bird, though common, is not 
numerous. On the sea-coast of New Jersey, it is known by 
the name of dunkadoo, a word probably imitative of its com- 
mon note. It is said to be excellent eating when fat, and 
is generally so in the fall months. 

Wild pigeon, or passenger pigeon, and wifld 
squabs, — These numerous birds are found in our markets, 
both alive and dead, very plenty, and generally cheap in 
the latter part of September and October; they are also 
found in less numbers through the winter months. 

Great numbers are taken alive with nets, cooped up for 
several weeks, and fed with grain until fat, then brought to 
our markets as the prices advance ; while those that are 
brought dead have been shot from off the " spar," and sent 
here at the time of their " flying," which takes place gener- 



WILD-FOWL AND BIKDS, CALLED GAME. 173 

ally in the month of March, when they are going north, and 
then again in the fall, about the 15th to the 25th September, 
when they leave for the Southern climate. Large numbers 
of the old birds and squabs are sent here from the " West," 
where they are killed or taken alive at their " roosts." The 
wild squabs, when fat and fresh, are very delicate eating ; 
the cooped bird is also good, the flesh being rather dry ; 
but a poor wild-pigeon is very indifferent eating, even if 
well and properly cooked. They are found best in the 
months of September and October. 

I have often enjoyed the sport of taking the wild pigeon, 
both with the "net" and shooting them from the "spar." 
A few day Si previous to their usual flight, a " bough-house" 
is made by placing cedar bushes in the ground, in a circle, 
large enough for one or two persons to go behind or out of 
sight. A " floor" is then prepared by levelling the ground 
about twenty feet square — say from fifteen to twenty yards 
from the "bough-house;" then, on the left side of this 
"floor," four crotched sticks are driven in the ground; the 
two nearest the " bough-house" are placed quite close to- 
gether, or about one foot apart, and the other two some 
fifteen feet further off, and some three or four feet apart, 
ranging a little higher than the two first, on a line from the 
" bough-house," when two poles, of about twenty feet long, 
are placed on these crotched sticks. The further end of the 
poles should set high enough, that when the pigeons alight 
they can be all seen from the " bough-house." A pigeon- 
stool is then driven in the ground near the "floor," but so 
as not to be covered when the " net" is sprung. The " stool- 
pigeon," is blinded by drawing the under eyelids over the 
eyeballs, so that the bird cannot see, and his feet and legs 
tied with a woollen slip-noose fast to the stool, when he is 
ready for action. A " flyer-pigeon" (and sometimes two or 
three), are also blinded, and their legs tied to a fishing-line, 
sixty or one hundred feet long. The net being large enough 
to cover the " floor," is fastened to a strong rope, one end 
being fastened in the "bough-house," and the other end 



174 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

carried beyond the " floor," also firmly fastened to a stake. 
The net is drawn back from off the " floor," and fastened 
with a trap, when, by a strong pull on the rope in the 
" bough-house," the net flies quickly over, and covers the 
whole "floor." This ground-floor is covered with buck- 
wheat or rye-grain. 

As soon as a flock of pigeons is discovered at a distance 
of five or six hundred yards, the " flyer" is thrown up, and 
flies to the length of his line, then hovers down to the 
ground, as if in the act of alighting. By this time, the flock 
being within one hundred yards, the "stool-pigeon" is 
gently raised by means of a line leading into the " bough- 
house," then suddenly let down, which causes him to flutter 
as if also alighting. This is repeated until the flock is 
attracted, and begins to sail around the "bough-house," 
when the "stool-pigeon" is left quiet, and the flock dis- 
covers the grain. 

If the flock pitches on the " floor," a strong pull and they 
are covered ; then haste to the net, and, if a large flock, 
stones must be placed on the edges to keep them down, or 
they would raise it up and escape. They are then taken 
out as quickly as possible, ready for another flock, placed 
in large flat baskets prepared for this business. If, how- 
ever, they are a small flock — say from thirty to fifty — and 
they alight on the spars, then the gun is brought to bear, 
which sometimes sweeps them all off. I have known fifty- 
killed at one shot. I chanced -to kill seventeen with one 
barrel, and thought I was doing considerable in that line. 

The largest number taken in a net, I ever heard or read 
of, was noticed in one of the Detroit papers— the Oivosso 
American— in the year 1858, which says: "Mr. Merritt 
Eichardson, living a couple of miles south of this village, 
on Wednesday last, caught, at one haul of his net, six hun- 
dred and forty-eight wild-pigeons." 

In the seasons of " great flights," thousands are brought 
to our markets ; and, in " olden time," above one hundred 
years ago, they were sold very cheap. I find, from the 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 175 

New York Mercury — "One day. last week, upwards of 
seventy-five thousand pigeons were brought to the market, 
insomuch that fifty were sold for one shilling." 

The Boston Weekly Post-boy, May 2, 1771, says : " The 
great numbers of pigeons that have been brought to our 
market within the fortnight past has greatly reduced the 
prices of all kinds of provisions. It is said that nearly fifty 
thousand were sold in one day." 

Turtle-dove, or Carolina pigeon. — This bird is 
smaller, but much like the wild-pigeon in general appear- 
ance. Its flesh is much superior to that bird, and found 
best in the months of August and September. They are 
seldom found for sale in our markets, except in a living 
state. 

Robin, or red-breasted thrush. — Large numbers 
of these well-known birds are found in our markets, and 
thousands are also shot by all sorts of sportsmen, in the 
months of September and October, when they are fat and 
delicate eating. Again, in the spring months, they return 
to the North, when some are guilty of shooting them, who 
ought not to be encouraged by any one purchasing them, as 
they are then "pairing off." I, however, think that these 
birds are more useful to man living than dead. 

ftJeadow-iarks, or meadow- s tar Bings. — These 
yellow-breasted birds I have often shot in the neighborhood 
of the present Twenty-fourth street, New York (and, I be- 
lieve, lower down), both on the North and East Eiver sides 
of New York, many years ago. The white flesh of a young 
fat bird is almost as good as the quail, but not so plump or 
large. The feathers on the back and head are a sort of 
grayish-brown, while those on the breast and under are 
yellow, spotted with black. In the fall months they are in 
the best condition. 

High-hole, clape, or golden-winged wood- 
pecker. — This handsome bird is common in our markets 
in the fall months, when it is fat, and its flesh quite savory, 
but not so tender as the robin. Along in the month of 



176 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

June, I have seen the squab high-hole in our markets, look- 
ing like a very small morsel of food, which perhaps a sick 
person might relish ; but as for the nourishment, I should 
think there was a very small quantity. In fact, it is a 
cruelty to take such birds from their nests, without it was 
to save human life. These birds are fond of wild cherries, 
pepperage, or gumberries ; from the trees which the latter 
grow on I have shot hundreds — sometimes as many as 
twenty to thirty from off one tree, in an afternoon. 

Med headed woodpecker. — This is not a common 
bird, but is often killed in our State, and is quite as good 
eating as the golden-winged woodpecker, but smaller. 

Oriole, or Baltimore oriole. — Although this beau- 
tiful bird is often seen on sale, yet they should never be 
purchased except for a collection. They are of so much 
value to the fruit-grower or farmer that they should never 
allow them to be shot on their premises, as I am told they 
are the only bird that eats the destructive curculio, besides 
many other fruit-destroyers. Their nests are very artisti- 
cally formed, being somewhat like a pocket hanging down 
from the limbs of trees. They are beautiful as well as 
valuable. 

'White snow-bird, ortolans, or snow bunting. 
— Its season with us begins with December, but is much 
fatter and better in January and February, when its flesh 
is much admired by the epicure. 

liark and lark bunting".— Giraud, in his " Birds of 
Long Island," says : " In the winter of 1838, several speci- 
mens of this bird were observed in the New York markets, 
having been shot on Long Island." No doubt, its flesh is 
equal to the preceding, being of the same species and 
habits. 

Blackbirds • — There appears to be four species of 
these birds which are occasionally found in our markets — 
the cow-bunting, crow, red-wing, and the rusty graole — all 
somewhat different in their colors and nature, but all are 
called blackbirds. One curious fact in relation to the cow- 



WILD-FOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME. 177 

bunting is, that it never builds a nest or hatches its eggs. 
It lays its eggs in the nests of other birds, who hatch out 
the young and feed them. They are small, but sweet- 
fleshed. Many are found along about the first of April, 
then again in September, October, and November, when 
they come from the North in very large flocks, from which 
great numbers are killed at a single shot. 

Reed-Mrds, rice-b routing's, rice-bards, or bob- 
alink^ — These little fat birds, when brought dead and 
picked to market, are usually called reed-birds, of which 
large quantities are sold, tied up in bunches, like so many 
pieces of fat strung together. Large numbers are found in 
the Philadelphia markets, as it is quite near their feeding- 
places. They are commonly known in Philadelphia as reed- 
birds, in Charleston as rice-birds, and North, in the summer 
months, when alive, as the bobalink (see bobolink). For the 
table they are best in September and October, when they 
have many admirers among epicures. 

King-fisher, or belted king-fisher. — This blue- 
crested bird I have seen in our markets occasionally, but it 
is not much thought of as human food. Its flesh is quite 
dry and tough, and generally strong, as it feeds principally 
on fish. The young birds are best. I think one of the 
fattest birds I ever saw was one of this species. They are 
more valued for collections. 

Snow-birds. — These birds are generally found in our 
markets in October and November, and sometimes scatter- 
ing later. When fat it is considered excellent eating. 

Mime -jay. — This handsome blue-bird is often seen in 
the fall months, tied up with robins, etc., in strings, for sale. 
The head is tufted and quite large in proportion to its body. 
Flesh not so well flavored as the robin. It is found in our 
markets sometimes as late as December. 

Boba links (see also reed or rice birds), — This bird, 
under the name of bobalink, is frequently exposed for sale, 
alive in cages, in our markets, but seldom killed for the 
table until they are found feeding on the " wild rice" at the 

12 ' 



178 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

South, under a new coat and name, when they are fat and 
fine. 

English robins, cedar-birds, yellow-tails, 
cherry-birds, chatterers, quaker-birds, top- 
knots, crown-birds, spider-birds, cedar wax- 
wings, etc. — These small birds are known by more names 
than any other birds in the country. They are occasionally 
found in large numbers in our markets. Their flesh is but 
a morsel of delicate eating, and only fit to eat in the fall 
months. But I think they should never be killed, as they 
destroy more destructive worms than perhaps any bird in 
existence. In fact, all such worm-destroyers should not 
only be protected by a stringent law, but every person 
should be so instructed that no law would be required for 
their protection. The few cherries they eat are generally 
wormy. 

Night-hawk. — This common bird is often heard, with 
its harsh, jarring noise, over our city in the spring and sum- 
mer months, flying and dashing through the air in chase 
after the winged insects, upon which it feeds. Its flesh is 
very delicate eating. 

Cat-bird, or black-capped thrush, — This little 
bird is sometimes found, tied up with a string of small birds, 
in the summer and autumn months. Its body is very small, 
but the flesh is sweet and good. 

Brown thrasher. — This small, brown-backed bird is 
not quite so large as the robin, and is often found tied up 
in strings with other birds and sold in the markets. Its 
flesh is delicate, what there is of it ; but its live body is 
larger to the farmer, who ought to protect it. 

Wood-robin or hermit- thrush. — This secluded 
little brown bird I have, when a boy, often shot, mistaking 
it for the female robin, in the wood, among the thickets. 
Its flesh is sweet, but not worth a charge of powder, even to 
a starving man. 

Chewink, ground-robin or towhie hunting.— 
These birds are scarcely ever found in our markets, yet, 



179 

when fat, its flesh is very delicate, and highly esteemed, so 
they say, in Louisiana, where it is called grasset. 

Fine grosbeak or bHll-dincti. — These are rather 
scarce birds, but have been known very plenty some years. 
They are, when found here, in season in the months of De- 
cember and January. Their flesh is very sweet, much like 
that of the robin, and about the same size. 

Cuckoo or cow-bird. — There are two species of this 
bird — the yellow-billed and the black-billed — both of a brown- 
ish cast, with a long tail. They are sometimes found tied 
up with other small birds, for sale. Their flesh is quite 
sweet, but rather a small body to so large-looking a bird. 

Purple fincli, or crested purple linen. — These 
little birds are sometimes found in our markets. Although 
small, their flesh is very delicate when in good condition. 
Best in the fall and early winter months. 

Yellow-birds — Anieric&Ei goldlinch. — These 
beautiful little yellow-birds, with black head, wings, and 
tail, are often found alive, caged, and for sale, in our mar- 
kets. The male bird is always the songster, and changes 
its color in winter to that similar to the female. 

Eagles. — This noble bird is never seen in our markets 
for sale as eatable food, but I have seen them there for 
sale, caged alive. "Charlevoix" says that "his people 
threw down, near Oswego, an eagle's nest, which was com- 
posed of a cartload of wood, and that it contained two 
eaglets, which were not as yet feathered" — that " they were 
eaten, and made very good food." They are often killed on 
Long Island, both the gray and bald-head species, and 
brought to our markets for the taxidermist. 

BIKDS WHICH AEE SELDOM OR NEVER USED HERE AS HUMAN 

FOOD. 

The following are some of the birds which are seldom 
found here, being exceedingly rare or scarce, but are used 
for the table in other climates and regions ; others, again, 
which are seldom or never eaten, except in extreme cases, 



180 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

either the flesh being too strong, tough, fishy, small, or 
otherwise considered unfit for human food : 

Eagles, hawks, goshawks, falcons, harriers, vultures or 
buzzards, ravens, crows, gulls, terns, auks, pufiins or shear- 
waters, jagers, guillenots, grebes, herons or egrets, cross- 
bills, cormorants, gannets, petrels, sea-doves, ibis, skimmers, 
grosbeaks, shrikes, gallinules, tonagus, orioles, mocking-birds, 
whip-poor-wills, blue-birds, martens, swallows, with several 
species of wild ducks, snipe, plover, sandpipers, buntings, 
larks, woodpeckers, thrushes, etc., etc. 

An anecdote is found of Prince Achille Murat, when he 
resided in Florida (1847), where he often engaged in hunt- 
ing, and it was said that nothing " that swims the water, 
flies the air, crawls or walks the earth, but that he served 
up on his table. Alligator steaks, frog shins, boiled owls, 
and roasted crows are found palatable ; but there is one 
animal that the Prince don't like. The buzzard is one too 
many for him. He says : ' I try him fried, I try him roast- 
ed, I try him stewed, and I make soup of him, but the buz- 
zard is not goot. I have no prejudice against him, but I 
cook him every way, and then I no like him.' ' 



FISH. 

The fish-markets of the city of New York and other 
cities, have become generally known as the depots for re- 
ceiving all the known varieties of the rarest and choicest 
fish available for the table. We refer both to the salt and 
fresh water fish of our coast and inland waters — of fish 
living altogether in salt water, and those living in fresh, as 
well as those living in both ; and others still, which at differ- 
ent seasons of the year, exist both in salt and fresh water, 
such as the salmon, shad, smelt, etc. 

The flesh of these fish is eatable, but some species are 
of a coarse, dry, ill-flavored and indigestible character, 
although they are not considered poisonous unless they 



FISH. 181 

have become so from feeding on poisonous or deleterious 
substances. 

The fresh-water fish appear to be more generally edible ; 
the salt-water fish, however, is more nourishing and pala- 
table. Neither should be eaten when out of season, as they 
are considered best a short time before spawning, and unfit 
to be eaten immediately after. 

Under the Levitical laws, we find it ordained, that fish 
with scales present the evidence that they are clean, and 
are fit to be eaten, while those fish deficient of scales, 
are placed by the same laws as being unclean, and therefore 
unfit for food. (No lobsters, crabs, oysters, clams, or other 
shell-fish are used by them.) This law, with the strict Jews, 
is observed to this day. 

There are some few people who, like the Jews, discard 
numbers of fish, as well as animals, from the catalogue of 
edibles, who in time, no doubt, will consider these objec- 
tionable fish, etc., to be absolutely necessary to an increased 
and better informed population. 

In the several histories of fish, the authors do not agree 
in many instances, especially in the varieties, as some 
appear to have a desire to create new genera, or of multi- 
plying species, which causes much confusion in arranging 
them under their proper names. No doubt this cause for 
increasing many of the varieties of the same species, arises 
from sex, age, the different sea-shores, rivers, lakes, streams, 
and changes produced especially by what they feed upon. 

Large numbers of salt-water fish are brought to our 
markets from a great distance, principally by steamboats 
and fishing-vessels ; many of the latter are called smacks, 
which are provided with " fish-wells," placed in the centre 
of the vessel, by which the sea-water can flow in and out 
through a latticed bottom, and thus preserve the fish alive 
and fresh. 

These fishing-smacks originated in New York more than 
a century ago, as will appear from an article taken from an 
old newspaper, which says : " The plan of bringing live fish 



182 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

to the New York markets, originated with a society of 
gentlemen, who clubbed together to fit the smack "Amherst" 
for that purpose." 

Then we find in the Gazette, July 25, 1763 : " Saturday 
last (23d) was launched the Amherst, fishing-smack, fully 
rigged and fit for sea. There was a great concourse of 
people to see her off. She sails for the ' Banks' this day." 

The same paper, in the following year (January 30), in- 
troduces the following lines in relation to this first fishing- 
smack here : 

" Since on our banks the porgey's found, 
A smack they've built to try the ground ; 
But when they have them on the dish, 
Deduction finds sauce for the fish ; 
Plumb-pudding and roast-beef also, 
Come from our purses tho' they're low ; 
And Princess Bay oft brought us up, 
By which in plenty now they sup : 
But now the case is altered quite. 
We bid you, gentlemen, good-night." 

The example of these gentlemen induced many others to 
engage and fit out other vessels for this purpose, which 
caused the supplies to become so plentiful as to cause the 
Amherst company to discontinue, and sell their vessel. 

The Legislature, also, to encourage the " fishery" on our 
coast, passed an act in 1773, and introduced it to the public 
through the following source : 

"Chamber op Commerce, ) 
New York, 6th of April, 1773. \ 
" Whereas, The Legislature of the Province of New York 
have, by an act passed the 8th of March last, directed that 
the overplus of the duty of excise, collected in the said city 
and county, be annually paid for the first year next after 
the passing of the said act, to the treasurer of the Corpora- 
tion of the Chamber of Commerce, to be, by the said cor- 
poration, disposed of in such manner as they shall think 
most proper, for encouraging a fishery .on the sea-coast, 



FISH. 183 

for the better supplying the markets in the city of New 
York. 

" In order, therefore, that the intention of the Legislature 
may be fully answered, and the inhabitants of this city re- 
ceive the benefit of so laudable a donation, it is resolved 
and agreed that the following premiums, hereafter men- 
tioned, be paid by the treasurer of the Chamber of Com- 
merce, to such persons who, upon application and due proof, 
made to the satisfaction of the Chamber, shall be entitled 
to the same, viz. : 

To the owners and crew of any one boat or vessel who shall supply 
this market with the greatest quantity of fish taken on the 
• coast with trawl nets (ray and skate excepted), from the 1st 
of May, 1773, to the 1st of May, 1774, the sum of £40 Qs. Od. 

To the same— with the same exceptions — the next greater quan- 
tity 30 

To the same — greatest quantity of live codfish, from the 1st of 

November. 1773, to the 1st of May, 1774 30 

To the same — and the same time — next greatest quantity of live 

codfish 20 

The greatest quantity of live sheeps-head, from the 1st of May, 

1773, to the 1st of May, 1774 20 

The next greatest quantity of live sheeps-head 15 

The greatest quantity of fresh mackerel, etc 10 " 

In 1783, a curious article on fish originated on the many 
varieties found in the New York markets at that period, 
which appears in Gaines' Mercury, May 26th, and reads as 
follows : " One day last week our market afforded us no less 
than twenty- three different sorts of fresh" fish." This 
brought out in the Royal Gazette, two days after, the follow- 
ing : " Mr. Rivington having seen in yesterday's paper that 
there were twenty -three kinds of fresh fish in the market, I 
want to know if it will be below the dignity of your royal 
typographic pen to announce to us their christened names. 
And while you, a very droll fish, are swimmingly enjoying 
your post, meridian tide, Goody Burton, or Barley Ealer- 
nian, you may also tell us which of them will make the best 
prelude to the noted Apres le poisson toujours, for much good 



184 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

it has often done to many of the old friends of Be Grege 

Epicuri, Porcus" 

In the next edition of the Gazette (31st inst.) appears the 
following answer : " The Royal Gazette of the 27th inst., 
having ushered into the public to request to you the first — 
As Mr. Gaine has not favored us with the names of the 
several sorts of fish which appeared in the market at the 
same time, we can only judge from conjecture what they 
were. From often walking through the market, I will ven- 
ture to offer them conjecture with respect to some of them 
at least. 

" But your correspondent must not expect that I am to 
announce the Christian names of all of them, as for in- 
stance the jew-fish; this, we are to suppose, has never had 
any such : and indeed, although the whole tribe of prisces 
have water dashed in their faces every instant of their lives, 
yet it will be hard to determine which of them have Christian 
names. With respect to some of them suspicions may arise, 
as the tom-cod, which being but a diminutive fish, is usually 
called the tommy cod; and there is another called the jack, 
and a third named the ship-jack, but the latter I suspect to 
be the same fish as the sturgeon, for as in the improvement 
of the English language (which probably will not prevail 
much longer on this continent, and has been much adulter- 
ated) it is not impossible that the name of this fish may 
have been stir John ; or, indeed, another idea arises, that it 
originally might have been sir jolm, for why should a loin 
of beef be knighted in preference to a sprightly fish? 

" There are other sorts brought occasionally to the markets, 
such as pikes, pipers, sword and drum fish, but these are 
found in greater quantities on the area before the bridewell 
at six or seven o'clock in the evening ; and with respect to 
the gudgeon and sheeps-head, they are to be met with at 
every corner of a street, and black-fish are not uncommon. 

"But among the noted number twenty three, that appeared 
in market at the same time, we must not omit the probabil- 
ity, at least, of the printer of the Royal Gazette, who is 



FISH. 



185 



allowed by the writer of the queries to be a droll fish, and 
this writer himself, who appears to be a queer -fish, being of 
the number, for as Porous, according to the Linnean system, 
is a generical term for all sorts of hogs, that part of his sig- 
nature may be supposed a sea-hog. 

" With respect to the latter query, which will make the 
best prelude to the noted apres le poisson toujours, I shall 
only answer, Chacun a son gout. In copia cantus." 

Twenty years after the above articles appeared, a pre- 
pared list of some fifty-six different varieties of fish, then 
commonly known in the New York markets, are found 
noticed, some of which appear to possess names not com- 
mon at the present day. They are found below, alphabet- 
ically arranged, with their original orthography preserved. 



*Ale wives. 


*Killey-fish. 


*Sea-bass. 


Bass or rock-fish. 


King-fish. 


Shad. 


Black-fish. 


Lamper-eels. 


Sheeps-head. 


*Bregals. 


Lobsters. 


Shrimps. 


Cat-fish. 


Logger-heads (turtle) 


Skate. 


Chub. 


plenty. 


Smelts. 


Clams. 


Mackerel. 


Snails or conk. 


Cod. 


Mullet. 


Snapping-turtle. 


Crabs. 


Muscles. 


*Soles. 


*Dog-fish. 


Oysters. 


Spanish mackerel. 


Drum-fish. 


Pike. 


Sturgeon. 


Eels. 


*Pissers (clams). 


^Suckers. 


*Fiddlers, plenty. 


^Pollock. 


Sun-fish. 


Flounders. 


Porgeys. 


Tarrapins. 


Gar-fish. 


^Prawns. 


*Tom cod. 


Green turtle. 


*Ray. 


Trout. 


Haddock. 


Salmon. 


Weak-fish. 


Hollebut. 


* Scollops. 


White perch. 


Herring. 


^Sculping. 


Yellow perch. 



— Daily Advertiser, Jan'y 9, 1804. 

An anxious Philadelphian, who wished to exhibit a 
greater variety than is noticed above, writes to the editors 
of the Philadelphia True American, and says : " Seeing a list 
of fish that is brought to the New York markets, I wish to 
lay before the public a list brought to the Philadelphia 
market ;" and then names over all the above except those 



186 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

marked with a star, but in their places adds the following 
(which numbers seventy varieties — fourteen more than those 
found in New York). 

Bass (not rock-bass). Horse mackerel. Sea trout. 

Black backs. Manhaden. Sea eels. 

Black perch. Minees. Sharks. 

Brown-back turtle. Mud shad. Stink-pots (turtle). 

Carpp. Mud wallepers. Suckers. 

Dolphin. Ohio cat (fish). Susquehanna turtle. 

Gudgeons. Oldwives (perch). Swallow-tailed cat-fish. 

Hawks-bill (turtle). Roach. "Water-turtle, red belly. 

Hickory shad. Salmon trout. White-bellied cat : fish. — 

Horn-fish. Sea cat. Ohronicle Express, Jan'y 17, 1804. 

In the above lists, but very few of the fine fresh-water fish 
are found, and those only of the small or poor kinds ; and 
it is only a few years since a regular business has been 
established by which the many excellent varieties from the 
large Western lakes, rivers, etc., have — in their proper 
season — been found on the tables of the citizens of either 
New York, Boston, Philadelphia, or Brooklyn. It was 
thought that when the Great Canal was finished, we should 
be well supplied, or so it is noticed in a letter dated in 1820 : 
" The fish-markets of the cities on the Hudson will be 
greatly improved by the canal. New species will be brought 
down in ice, in a perfect state of preservation, and the 
epicure of the South will be treated with new and untried 
dishes of the highest flavor." 

The canal, however, did not do as much business in the 
fresh-fish line as it did in bringing thousands of barrels of 
salted fish, which were then known as lake trout or salmon, 
pickerel, white fish, and sisquette, which produced very 
high prices. There were, however, an occasional lot of fresh 
fish, and perhaps the first brought for our markets was thus 
noticed by the press, September 14, 1826 : " About five 
hundred weight of fresh salmon {lake salmon) from Lake 
Ontario, was exhibited for sale in Fulton Market this morn 
ing. They were conveyed to this city via the Erie Canal, 
packed in ice and in fine order. Should they command a 



' FISH. 187 

price that would warrant the expense of transportation, and 
yield a profit, they can be brought to our market every 
week during the season. They were sold for thirty-one 
cents a pound to the first purchaser." 

In this manner small lots were received — only, however, 
occasionally ; but when the railroads were established, a 
more regular supply of the fine fresh fish took place, espe- 
cially in the cold season, when fish were sold at high prices, 
and they could be carried in a frozen state ; since which, 
additional facilities for reaching the upper lakes by steam- 
boats has increased the varieties and numbers as well as 
lessened the prices of the choice kinds in our (N. Y.) city. 

The number of fish will be much increased by persons 
engaging in growing fish in the numerous estuaries, ponds, 
creeks, etc., for market purposes, as is now done for the 
European markets. 

The culture of fish originated with an humble but intel* 
ligent fisherman named John Eemy, of Yosges, France, who, 
although uneducated, by dint of penetration, observation, 
and perseverance, succeeded in raising fish from the seed 
or eggs, under various circumstances. Mr. Milne Edwards 
declares in a Eeport to the Academy of Sciences, that Eemy, 
with his colaborer Gehin, has the merit of having " created 
a new industry in France ;" and Mr. Geoffrey St. Hilaire, 
the great naturalist, pronounced Eemy one of the " bene- 
factors of his country." 

To protect several of the choice species of the fresh-water 
fish, which sportsmen call game-fish, a law was passed in 
New York on the 6th of April, 1860, which prohibited any 
person "to have in possession on exposure for sale — any 
speckled brook-trout, or spotted trout, or lake trout, between 
the first day of September and the first day of March, or 
any salmon trout, or any muscalonge, between the first day 
of December and the first day of April, in each and every 
year, under a fine of five dollars for each fish so taken or 
had in possession. 

" No person or persons shall take any salmon trout, save 



188 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

in the waters of Lake Erie and Lake Ontario; or any 
speckled brook-trout, or speckled river-trout or lake-trout, 
or muscalonge, in any of the waters of this State at any 
time, save with hook and line, under a fine of two dollars for 
each fish so taken." 

The demand for fish in the season of Lent is much greater 
than at any other time of the year. Then we usually find 
the numerous stands in our fish-markets loaded down with 
many varieties, which are sold at prices within the reach 
of all. 

In choosing perfectly fresh fish the following general fea- 
tures will show themselves. The fish should be quite firm 
and stiff, eyes stand out full and clear, gills quite red, and 
the fins firm, not hanging, or moving about as the fish is 
moved. 

Fish are seldom subjected to diseases, but sometimes they 
are found in an unfit or unwholesome state, whether occa- 
sioned by some peculiar food or water, or from other causes. 
A singular phenomenon occurred in the month of Novem- 
ber, 1844, when the whole coast was strewed along with 
dead fish of many kinds. An old fisherman, in the New 
London JSfeivs, says, the smack in which he was had been 
unsuccessful, but very few fish having been taken, and on 
many of the old fishing-grounds not one could be found. In 
returning along the south shore of Long Island, their at- 
tention was attracted to the beach, which was literally 
strewed with the bodies of dead fish just washed up by 
the sea. 

Blackfish, Cunner's (bergalls), lobsters, and crabs, and 
many other species which inhabit our shores at this season, 
lay promiscuously on the sand. On examining the well of 
the smack, it was discovered that the fish which they had 
taken were also dead. As far as the shore was examined 
eastward, towards Montauk Point, it was found to be cov- 
ered alike with dead fish. 

" "We are also informed that the smack Caroline, on Fri- 
day last, while about fifteen miles from land, passed through 



FISH. 189 

a rip (formed by adverse tides) which was filled with dead 
fish. Soon after this the well of the smack was examined, 
and every fish in it found to be dead. These remarkable 
facts require scientific investigation. Similar phenomena 
have been observed in the Mediterranean after a volcanic 
eruption on some of the neighboring mountains ; and it is 
quite probable, we think, that the destruction of the finny 
tribe noticed above was caused by a like eruption at sea, 
near our coast." A friend of the editor of the U. S: Gazette, 
Philadelphia, " who has just returned from the seashore of 
New Jersey, informs us that the whole shore, for thirty or 
forty miles, is covered with dead fish, cast up by the sea. 
They are of all kinds, from the smallest perch to the largest 
sturgeon, some rock-fish weighing forty or fifty pounds, and 
rich sea-bass. Many of the fish are washed up before they 
are dead. So great is the number, that a gentleman com- 
puted that on Learning's Beach alone there must be ten 
thousand bushels. What has happened among the fish we 
cannot tell, as we do not know to what unwholesome influ- 
ences they are liable in the depths below, but something 
extraordinary must have been in operation to produce an 
evil so extensive. Was it a volcanic eruption ?" 

Several of the different species of fish noticed in the fol- 
lowing pages are found with several names to each one — 
given to them in different places by different persons : 
such names have been placed with those they represent, 
that the variety or species may be designated. They 
are under their several distinct heads, that each may be 
more easily referred to, beginning under each caption with 
those which are considered the best, and so in order, as they 
have appeared to decrease in value for the table. 

These captions will appear, 1. Large and abundant; 2. 
Small and abundant; 3. Large and scarce; 4t. Small and 
scarce, concluding with Shell-fish. Under the first and sec- 
ond captions are those noticed which are usually found 
abundant in their seasons. Under the third and fourth 
headings are those which are occasionally and rarely found 



190 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

in our fish-markets ; while there are many other kinds again 
noticed, which are not commonly used for the table, but 
which are edible, or have been eaten under certain circum- 
stances. 

I may here add that those under the head of " Large," etc., 
are usually preferred to boil, bake, or roast, and those under 
the head of " Small," etc., are better calculated for the fry- 
ing-pan or gridiron. With these observations, we will pro- 
ceed with those under the first caption. 

LARGE AND ABUNDANT. 

Salmon. — This noble fish is generally considered the 
choicest, most savory, and nutritive of all fish, and usually 
commands the highest price of any kind sold in our mar- 
kets, on account of its scarcity, distance brought, and the 
difficulty of preserving them fresh and in good order. 

The best salmon have small heads, and are quite thick 
through the shoulders. Their usual weight runs from six 
to twelve pounds each (although I have read of their weigh- 
ing above sixty pounds). These fish, when on sale, are usu- 
ally found too large for private families. The retail fisher- 
men, however, cut pieces to suit purchasers. The middle-cut 
is the choice, though some prefer the head and shoulders, 
and others again the tail-piece. "When cut, the flesh should 
appear quite red, solid, and flaky. 

The Eastern salmon, from the Kennebec Kiver, are con- 
sidered the best : those from the Penobscot arid St. John's 
Rivers come next. They begin to arrive here sometimes as 
early as the 1st of March, and continue to the 1st of Sep- 
tember. Salmon sold lower in 1860 and 1862 than ever 
before, or at least within the knowledge of the living : they 
could be bought for eight and ten dollars per hundred 
pounds, and it was said some sold at a lower price. 

Scotch salmon, brought from Scotland in our steam- 
ers, are sometimes found in our markets near all the year 
round ; but they are not usually in very good condition, and 



pish. 191 

therefore do not rank with our Eastern salmon when in 
season. 

Large quantities of these fish are found in the cured 
state, either pickled, soused, salted and smoked, etc., sold 
singly or in packages at much lower prices than in the fresh 
state, having been cured where taken. 

It is very seldom in fact, for many years past, that salmon 
are taken in the North, or Hudson Eiver, although at an 
early period they were very plenty. The .earliest record of 
this fact appears in Juet's (Hudson's mate) journal on his 
passage up the Hudson Kiver in 1609 in the vessel called 
the " Half-Moon," which says : " Sept. 15. The morning 
was misty until the sun arose ; then it cleared, so we weighed 
with the wind at south, and ran up into the river twenty 
leagues, passing by high mountains. We had very good 
depth, as six, seven, eight, nine, ten, twelve and thirteen 
fathoms, and great store of salmon in the river." 

In 1771 a number of persons in the country of Albany de- 
frayed the expense of procuring salmon from the rivers and 
lakes where they abound, and placed them in the Hudson 
Kiver, that they would, by spawning there, soon become 
numerous. In the same year a law was passed (on the 16th 
of February) to prevent persons taking and destroying 
salmon in the Hudson River, under the penalty of ten 
pounds. 

We find, after this period, that they were occasionally 
taken in this river, and sometimes quite near the city. The 
Philadelphia Press, in 1793, announced the taking of a shad 
in the month of January, when a New York subscriber says : 
" A number of your readers are surprised that you would 
not notice a salmon that was also taken in January." Then 
follows on — " In January, by a shad, .the mighty city was 
made glad ; — A salmon, eke in January, made Manhattans 
quite as merry. — New York, January 24, 1793." 

In answer, the Philadelphia editor says : " On the 21st of 
January a winter salmon was dined on in Boston by a num- 
ber of citizens of that capital. The New Yorkers will, there- 



192 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

fore, not consider themselves alone in that unusual January 
regale." 

From the New York Minerva, June 22, 1796, we find re- 
corded : "A salmon, weighing twelve pounds two ounces, 
was caught (on Monday 20th) by Captain James Deas, at 
Little Sligo, four miles up the North Kiver." 

This same gentleman is found again successful, and is 
thus noticed in the Commercial Advertiser, June 23, 1808 : 
" A very fine salmon, weighing eight pounds and three-quar- 
ters, was caught by Captain James Deas,* at Camperdown, 
near Weehawk Ferry, on Tuesday morning last. This is the 
second salmon caught at that place by the same gentleman, 
within eight years." In the month of June, 1826, " a fine 
salmon was caught at Bed Hook, in a net spread for weak- 
fish. It was brought up to Fulton Market and sold at auc- 
tion, and bid up to almost ten dollars. It was supposed to 
weigh about ten pounds." Then in the month of May, 1831, 
says Niles' Register : " A salmon, weighing eighteen pounds, 
was lately caught in the Hudson River, opposite Catskiil — 
a rarely-known visitor of the waters of that river." Brown, 
also, in his "Angler's Text-book," says: "A number were 
taken in nets, in the Bay of New York, in the month of June, 
1844:." In the London Times we find an enormous large 
salmon " was caught at Chanonry Point, Moray Firth, For- 
trose, which weighed sixty-two pounds." Penant, an old 
writer, also mentions one that weighed seventy-four pounds. 

New York City began to be regularly supplied with fresh 
salmon, from the Kennebeck River, Maine, about the years 
1832-3, by some of the coasting schooners, which occasionally 
brought small lots in ice during one or two of the summer 
months, or, rather, from about the first of June to the last 
of July. These were consigned to Mr. John Niles, a pro- 
duce merchant, No. 212 Washington-street, who immedi- 
ately announced the arrival thus : " Feesh salmon. — The 

* Captain James Deas died on the 22d of April, 1812, at his residence, 
New Jersey. He belonged to the St. Andrew's and Marine Societies, of New 
York. 



MSH. 193 

schooner Pioneer arrived this morning with a fresh cargo 
of fresh salmon to Mr. J. Niles. The lovers of this delicious 
fish will have an 'opportunity, to-morrow morning, to obtain 
any quantity by calling on Mr. Mies or his representatives, 
either at the Washington (Messrs. Eldridge and Ashley) or 
Fulton (N. Rogers) markets." — Commercial Advertiser, June 
13, 1834. 

Spanish mackerel. — This choicest of fish is found 
very plentiful during some seasons, usually in the months 
of June, July, August, and September. Their general ap- 
pearance is similar to the spring mackerel, but a much 
larger fish, and without the dark lines on the sides ; there 
are, however, three or four rows of pale yellow spots instead. 

There is another variety, called the spotted cybum, which 
is known among the fishermen also as the Spanish mackerel. 
It, however, appears a slimmer fish, more compressed, and 
with sometimes four and five rows of bright yellow spots, 
nearer together and running alternately on the sides nearly 
the whole length. The Spanish mackerel are sold usually 
at high prices, and their general weight ranges from two to 
eight pounds. 

The Herald, August 17, 1862, says : " The largest Spanish 
mackexel ever captured in the vicinity of New York was 
caught on Friday, at Long Branch, weighing twenty pounds, 
and over four feet in length. It was presented to Mr. C. V. 
Clickner, of the Dey-street House." 

^Iseep head is a name given to this choice fish from 
the appearance of the mouth and teeth, which are much 
like those of the sheep. It is a large, short, deep fish, sil- 
very in appearance, seven or eight dark bands running 
across it, and with a smutty face. There are many who 
think it the very best fish for a boil that swims. Weight 
from four to ten pounds, and in season from May to the 
first of October. Be careful that you buy them fresh, as 
they spoil much sooner than many fish, on account of their 
food, which consists principally of muscles, etc. The editor 
cf the Commercial Advertiser — July 3, 1822 — gives his ex- 



194 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

perience in the purchase of a stale fish of this species, 
which he thus describes : " There was a fine-looking stock of 
sheep head in the market yesterday, killed and dressed, one 
of which, soon after we had the misfortune to bring it home, 
forcibly reminded us of the following anecdote : A colored 
man being once on a time in the market, was detected by 
the owner smelling a fish. ' What are you about, you black 
rascal ?' said the fishmonger ; ' do you smell of my fish ?' 
* I no smell him, Massa,' said Cuff, ' I talk to him. I ask 
him what news from sea.' ' Well, sirrah, what does he say ?' 
' He say he no been dar dis tree week, massa.' " 

Several fine live specimens were shown at the Fair of the 
American Institute, held September, 1860, which were fur- 
nished by Messrs. Miller & Co., of Fulton Market, who took 
several prizes for showing a large and choice collection of 
" sea-fish." One of these live specimens was taken to Bar- 
num's Museum, where I have seen him several times since, 
and is yet alive (1864), but grown considerably larger. 
While at the fair I became much attached to him, for his 
tameness (in fact, so much so, that he would come up to my 
hand at the top of the water), that I would not have parted 
with him but for the great trouble of procuring fresh salt 
water daily for his preservation. 

Striped-bass, streaked-bass (known South as) 
Rock, Mock-fish, and Rock-bassi — These fish are 
highly prized by all who have eaten them. Those from a half 
to one pound weight are best to fry ; above that weight to 
three pounds should be split for broiling, and from four to 
eight are the choice to boil. The very large fish are some- 
times known as " green-heads," and are usually found coarse 
and rather dry eating, especially when above twenty-five 
pounds ; then the best manner to prepare them is to boil 
and souse, or pickle the flesh. In color, the back is of a 
bluish brown, silvery sides, and lighter underneath ; the 
number of stripes running from the head is usually eight, 
four of which most commonly reach the tail — the rest are 
shorter. They are never found alive on the stands, and 



FISH. 195 

cannot even be kept alive in the "fish- wells," or cars, on ac- 
count of their wildness, as they soon wear themselves out, 
or, rather, their fins off, and die. Although they are seldom 
out of the markets, yet some months they are scarce, viz. : 
July and August, and again in December, January, and 
February. They are, however, best in September, October, 
and November. In the spring months they run quite small 
and make excellent pan-fish. 

Of the immense numbers that have been caught at one 
time, the following will give the reader some idea. The 
New York Packet, September 1st, 1785, says : " Tuesday 
evening se'nnight, upwards of one thousand weight of rock- 
fish were caught at one haul, in the Delaware, near Trenton. 
Some of these fish weighed near thirty pounds apiece, and 
generally from eight to twenty." 

The Commercial Advertiser, August 4, 1812, notices a 
" Miraculous Draft of Fishes. — On Monday afternoon last, 
two hundred and twenty-five fine (striped) bass were caught 
at a single draft, in the Hudson River, below the dam, at 
the village of "Washington. They weighed from Hye to 
thirty pounds each, and the whole amount was nearly three 
thousand weight. "What renders this circumstance the more 
remarkable is, that none of the fisheries on the Hudson 
have ever been noted for large quantities of bass. The 
taking of a single one of thirty pounds, in the course of the 
season, has at all times been considered as very rare and 
uncommon. Small bass, however, are occasionally caught 
in considerable quantities, but they are by no means plenty, 
nor is our market at any time ever tolerably well supplied 
(except in the spring season) with fish caught in the Hud- 
son." 

Then we find in the Baltimore Gazette, in May, 1834, — 
" Yesterday some fishermen, at Carpenter's Point, took, at a 
single haul, upwards of eight hundred rock-fish, of the 
largest size we ever saw. Some of them weighed upwards 
of one hundred pounds, and the most of them averaging 
between fifty and one hundred pounds. They were selling 



196 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

this morning in the market at from fifty cents to one dollar 
for the largest — say one cent a pound for such fish as this." 

An enormous striped bass was caught with a hand-line 
at Cuttyhonk, near New Bedford, in the year 1860, which 
weighed one hundred and four pounds. 

Within my recollection, there were particular docks and 
other places around our city where this fine fish was caught 
in abundance in certain seasons and tides ; and the Battery, 
on the bridge leading to the Castle Garden, was one of them, 
which some fishermen held as a favorite place. Here, occa- 
sionally, instances occurred of very successful angling. 
"On Saturday afternoon (says the Press, October 12, 1816), 
a young gentleman of this city caught off the Battery, with 
a hook and line, nearly two hundred striped bass, weighing 
from a quarter to one pound and a half. Several others 
caught nearly a similar number." Another paper, October 
17, 1832, notices some " Fine Spokt. — Twelve hundred bass 
were caught from the Castle Garden bridge yesterday." 

Then we have some remarkable and curious incidents, the 
first of which is found in the Commercial Advertiser, Sep- 
tember 28, 1816, as follows : " On Wednesday, one of our 
scientific anglers, Mr. Ellis, brought in three fish upon one 
hook — the largest, a fine bass, weighing about three pounds. 
The hook had been baited with a small live chub, which was 
swallowed by a bass of about one-half or three-quarters of 
a pound weight, and the whole swallowed by the large fish, 
leaving the tail of the small bass projecting from its mouth. 
This spectacle establishes a fact in natural history, we be- 
lieve, not generally known, that the voracity of this fish 
induces it to devour its own species." — Albany Argus. 

The Connecticut Mirror notices — " A large bass, weighing 
between fifty and sixty pounds, was caught a few days since 
at Haddam, about twenty miles below this city. Upon 
opening it, it was found to contain a junk bottle of rum, which 
it is supposed must have dropped overboard from some 
vessel or boat, and caught while sinking by this tippler of the 
deep." — Commercial Advertiser, June 19, 1820. 



FISH. 197 

The following incident was — in the year 1818 — related by 
Mr. John Scudder, proprietor of the American Museum, in 
this city(N. Y.) "In 1801 or '2, an Albany sloop, becalmed, 
was gently drifting on her passage through the Highlands : an 
eagle was observed in the river, fluttering its wings in vain 
efforts to rise. Some hands in the boat rowed off, and, with 
a line cast round the body of the eagle, drew it alongside 
and took it safely on board, together with a large bass that 
weighed thirty-three pounds, into which it had struck its 
talons, which became so inserted between the joints of the 
vertebrae as to prevent extrication. The eagle (of the bald 
species) was brought alive to this city, and was purchased 
by Mr. Savage, who at that time kept a museum which Mr. 
Scudder attended."— Ibid., May 9, 1818. 

The same paper, March 21, 1832, also says : " While 
some men were rowing up Newtown Creek, day before 
yesterday, they discovered a sea-dog stealing bass from a 
fuik of a bass-net. They succeeded in taking him, and he 
was brought to this city, and, of course, was instantly bought 
by Dr. Scudder for the American Museum, where he is now 
exhibiting." 

Six years after, the same paper (June 16, 1838,) gives the 
following : " Amusing incident which occurred on board the 
steamboat Swan, during her passage up Princes Bay. It 
appeared that quite a group of ladies were assembled before 
the looking-glass preparing for dinner, while one, more in- 
dolent than the rest, was taking her siesta on a sofa, re- 
clining at her ease, in the full enjoyment of all the pleasant 
visions that a blooming beauty of eighteen summers is sup- 
posed to possess, when an enormous rock-fish, or striped 
bass, suddenly jumped through the port-hole and fell in her 
lap. Whether the lady or the poor fish was the most 
frightened, we do not pretend to say ; the lady, however, 
possessing that inestimable gift of nature, the power of 
making her troubles known, shrieked in such a manner as 
to drive the others in the greatest consternation among the 
gentlemen, sans hats, sans curls, sans ceremony ! Mean- 



198 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

while, Commodore Scliultz made his appearance in the 
cabin, and found, to his dismay, a lady apparently lifeless, 
and a large fish bouncing about the cabin, among his furni- 
ture. The Commodore, however, in a few minutes, suc- 
ceeded, with the aid of a few whose better feelings overcame 
their fears, in restoring life to the inanimate fair one, and 
destroying that of the rude intruder." 

One hundred years ago, a law (noticed in the Gazette, No- 
vember 14, 1758) was passed, to prohibit the selling or 
bringing certain fish, called bass or twalft (see Big Drum), 
to the city, in the months of December, January, and Feb- 
ruary, in consequence of the " great decrease of that kind 
of fish," and also of their being unsound and unwholesome 
in those months. The penalty for such offence " was forty 
shillings lawful money of New York," and the forfeit of 
such fish. " And if it be a negro, mulatto, or Indian slave, 
shall receive such corporal punishment at the public whip- 
ping-post, as the mayor, recorder, or aldermen shall think 
fit, unless the master or mistress shall pay the above fine." 

Sea-foa§§. — This well-known fish is a general favorite 
for the table. The color is of a bluish black, and the fins 
of a lighter blue. They are usually found, or caught, from 
one-half pound up to eight pounds weight, and in season 
from 1st of May to the 1st of October. The small fish are 
an excellent pan-fish, and those of a large size, which have 
a beautiful indigo-blue head, and weighing from three to six 
pounds, are best for boiling. 

A nautical correspondent (in the New York Journal, 
August 4, 1785,) informs masters of vessels bound to the 
northward of Cape Hatteras, and especially those that fall 
in about the cape, and are anywise short of provisions, that 
in latitude 35° 46' and about the longitude of the cape, there 
is a large muscle-bank, intermixed with cockles and small 
pebbles, lying in fifty fathoms water, and abounds with 
sundry fish, such as sea-bass, sea-trout, flounders, skate, 
tusk (cusk), and dog-fish. The sea-bass here are very re- 
markable with respect to their largeness, generally weighing 



FISH. 199 

from four to six pounds each, and upon an average twenty 
to the hundred weight. A vessel has filled two barrels upon 
this bank in the space of two hours, with only three lines 
and three hooks, and there is no doubt if two hooks had 
been applied to each line, they might have got double the 
quantity. The water upon this bank differs very little in 
color from the ocean, and in the very height of winter is 
very little colder. There are likewise to be caught in the 
winter season, fish, by towing over this bank, if a person 
has suitable bait, such as the ballaho, which they have gen- 
erally in the West Indies ; but particular care must be taken 
with regard to the quality of the tackling, as the fish are 
remarkably strong and smart, and generally weigh from 
twenty to thirty pounds each. Four or five lines have been 
lost in an hour, and at last been obliged to bend the dipping- 
line to the inner end of the tow-line, and by the means of 
liaving length of line, and keeping the vessel in the wind, 
the fish have been taken. No common towing will hold them 
except using the foregoing method : they are supposed to 
be overgrown blue-fish. 

The Commercial Advertiser, July 17, 1815, has the follow- 
ing account of some great fishing. " G. Davis, Esq., and a 
party of gentlemen from Division-street (New York city), 
went to the fishing banks properly equipped, and in one 
hour and a quarter caught one thousand seven hundred 
sea-bass, all of which, except about two hundred, they 
brought to town in their car. A party from Staten Island, 
a few days since, had similar luck. It is a fact, that sea- 
bass were never before known to be so abundant as at 
present." 

The following incident is noticed in the New York Patriot, 
July 17, 1824 : " Captain Josiah Ingersoll, standing in 
"Washington Market on Tuesday morning last (1st July, 
1824), a person employed by one of the hucksters made a 
severe blow at a boy with a sea-bass. The boy dodged the 
blow, and it fell on Captain Ingersoll's thigh, and many of 
the back fin-bones were left in the flesh, some of which were 



200 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

immediately taken out. Shortly after it became very pain- 
ful. As soon as lie arrived home medical aid was called 
(Doctors Mott and Coulter), and it was found necessary to 
lay open the thigh, which was done, and many more bones 
were found, it is hoped all, but it is feared not. We are 
sorry to state great fears are entertained for his recovery." 

&had. — This well-known fish is a general favorite among 
all classes of persons, as its flesh is considered among the 
best, sweetest, the most delicate, as well as being the most 
plentiful when in season. Nothing but its numerous bones 
can be said against it. The color and general appearance 
are so well known, that description is needless. It is sel- 
dom or never found alive on the fish- stands, as they die in 
a few minutes after being taken from the nets. When fresh, 
their gills are of quite a crimson red, body firm, and scales 
very bright ; but when their gills begin to turn a whitish 
blue, eyes sunken, and the fish handles soft, it is then unfit 
to eat. Weight from three and a half to five pounds. An 
eight-pound fish is very scarce, although I find in Niles' 
Weekly Register, June 17, 1815, " A shad was lately caught 
in the Schuylkill which weighed eleven pounds and a quar- 
ter ; extreme length thirty and a half inches, and round the 
belly eighteen and a half inches." The editors of the New- 
ark Advertiser also say they were presented with a shad 
which weighed fourteen pounds, a few years ago ; but I 
could not get sufficient testimony to prove the latter weight 
correct, although I wrote to the editors. 

In the spring of 1841 two large shad were taken in the 
North River, and presented to the Hon. Robert H. Morris, 
Mayor of the City of New York, by Mr. Alfred G. Thomp- 
son, fisherman, of Washington Market. " The female shad 
measured two feet and three inches in length, and eighteen 
inches round the waist, weighing six and a half pounds. 
The other, a male shad, measured two feet and two inches 
in length, and fifteen inches round the waist, weighing seven 
pounds." Mr. Peter Yincellette, of Jefferson Market, in 
1857, had a very fat shad, which weighed eight and a half 



FISH. 201 

pounds, and, what is most singular, it was found without 
either the roes or melt. 

Shad begin to appear in our markets, in small numbers, 
from the South (Charleston), sometimes as early as the 1st 
of February, and by the 20th are quite plenty ; then from 
Ochrank (North Carolina) about the 1st of March ; Dela- 
ware Eiver, the 20th of the same month ; North Eiver, on 
or about the 1st of April ; although I read in the Commer- 
cial Advertiser, January 17, 1807, " A shad weighing five 
pounds was caught this morning at the Narrows, and sold 
in our market for one dollar and twelve cents !" Then we 
have them from Connecticut River about the 15th of April ; 
and so they continue North along the coast to the Bay of 
Fundy, where they are found to be very fat, fine, and 
large. 

The Southern fish received here are never very large, nor 
so fat as those taken in the North Eiver. The best, how- 
ever, are those from the Connecticut Eiver, which are 
known by their superior size, length, square-shaped back, 
and a fatter fish. It would almost seem, if we should judge 
by their uniformity and size, that each river received back 
again its own productions or births, year after year ; which 
cause, no doubfc, produces so many different forms or va- 
rieties. This fact appears confirmed by the following testi- 
mony. William Ward, of Pennsylvania, who dates " Lower 
Merion, 10th March, 1814," says : " About thirty years ago 
(1784), John Eoberts, Cooper, and myself, in the fall season, 
marked a considerable number of young shad, then from 
four to five inches long, by cutting off a part of the upper 
fin or fork of their tails, in order, if possible, to ascertain 
whether they returned to the Schuylkill in the following 
year. I was informed by Philip Shubert and Jacob and 
John Colp, that they had caught, the ensuing spring, many 
full-grown fish marked as aforesaid." 

Those which are called bach shad are sometimes im- 
properly caught, after having spawned and are returning to 
the sea, when they are always poor, exhausted, and unfit to 

9* 



202 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

be eaten ; in fact, no orthodox sportsman will permit a sh ad 
upon his table after the 1st of June, as they are usually 
nothing but head, fins, and bones. 

The roes of the female shad are considered a delicacy, 
and by some superior to the fish itself. The male shad has 
also roes, or rather a melt ; but they are much smaller and 
not so seedy-looking or red, but which many prefer, as they 
think it more delicate eating. 

Shad are found salted and also smoked, the year through, 
and those cured and brought from Connecticut are consid- 
ered the best. 

At a very early period shad were taken so plentiful, that 
large quantities were used to manure the ground. Of this 
fact we have the evidence of Edward Winslow (the former 
proprietor of a part of Daniel Webster's farm at Marshfield), 
who writes to one George Morton, as early as December 11, 
1621, the year after the Pilgrims landed, and says : " We 
set (planted) the last spring some twenty acres of Indian 
corn, and sowed some six acres of barley and peas ; and, 
according to the manner of the Indians, we manured our 
ground with herrings, or rather shads, which we have in 
great abundance, and take with great ease at our doors." 
Morton, also, says, in his New England Canaan, " There is 
a fish by some called shads, by some allizes, that, at the 
spring of the year, pass up the rivers to spawn in the 
ponds ; and are taken in such multitudes in every river that 
hath a pond at the end, that the inhabitants dung their 
grounds with them," since which period large numbers of 
shad have been caught all along the coast from Florida to 
the Bay of Fundy ; but perhaps no place was more promi- 
nent as a fishery than at our Narrows, prior to the year 
1800. We find in the New York Journal, April 26, 1770, 
the following : " Last week a remarkable quantity of shad 
fish was taken at the Narrows, on Long Island. One of 
the seines, as it was drawn towards the shore, was so filled 
with fish, that the weight pressed it to the ground, whereby 
great numbers escaped. A second seine was then thrown 



FISH. 203 

out around the fish, a third around the second, and a fourth 
around the third, and all filled in like manner. 

" The number of shad that were taken by the first net 
was three thousand ; by the second, three thousand ; by 
the third, four thousand ; and by the fourth, fifteen hundred ; 
in all, eleven thousand five hundred !" Another account is 
given in the same paper, April 16, 1791 : " We hear that a 
draught of shad was taken near the Narrows on Thursday 
last, which consisted of fourteen thousand fish ! — to secure 
which the fishermen were obliged to add several seines, one 
upon the other. It is said that this single draught of shad 
is worth upwards of <£200." 

The following is an account of the number of shad taken 
in the fuik net at New Utrecht, King's County, during the 
following years, by the Cortelyou family, at their fishery in 
the Narrows, as kept by Peter Cortelyou, Esq., formerly 
Sheriff of King's County, Long Island : In the years — 

1789 — 15,833 — the greatest number ti>ken on any one day of that year — 4,700 

1790—24,086 " " " 5,266 

1791—23,077 " " " 4,558 

1792—11,460 " " " 1,900 

1793- 8,145 " " " 1,468 

1794—16,945 " " " 3,575 

1795—15,917 " " " 1,960 

(From 1795 to 1816 the memorandum was lost.) 
1816 — 10,283 — the greatest number taken on any one day of that year — 908 

1817— 9,683 " " " 1,876 

1818— 9,453 " " " 459 

1819— 8,653 " « " 397 

1820— 8,233 " " " 436 

1821— 6,259 " " « 1,214 

1822— 4,115 « " " 391 

1823— 3,434 " " " 420 

1824— 3,115 " " " 482 

This shad-fishery has been gradually decreasing since the 
year 1824, so that now it is scarcely worth attending to. 
The fish now taken (1838) for the whole season, does not 
exceed the number taken in a single day, as stated, in 1817. 
All the fisheries in New York harbor are nearly destroyed, 



204 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

and the fish which now supply the markets of that city are 
brought from the distance of sixty, eighty, and even a hun- 
dred miles.* 

Mascalonge or JUuskelloiige. — This large fresh- 
water fish belongs to the pickerel family, and is by many 
considered the " king fish of the lakes." The color, when 
fresh, is a very dark green on the back, quite gray on the 
sides, and sometimes covered with dark or light marks, or 
white, irregular spots. Their weight varies from fiye to fif- 
teen pounds, although they have been taken above seventy 
pounds. They begin to appear in our markets in the latter 
part of October, last until April, and generally sell at high 
prices. 

A very fine, thick fish of this species — a most beautiful 
specimen — was sent to me in the month of July, 1858, which 
weighed above ten pounds. It was what an epicure would 
call "delicious eating," and I am much indebted to my 
friends, the Messrs. Miller & Co., of Fulton Market, for this 
and many other rare species of fish. 

An extraordinary large mascalonge, weighing forty-six 
pounds, was sold by another fisherman (Win. M. Rogers & 
Co.) of Fulton Market to the proprietor of the Astor House, 
in April, 1857, to be served up at the opening of their " res- 
taurant." When this fish was opened, two large silver, or 
lake suckers were found inside, one weighing above three 
pounds and the other two pounds. 

An interesting sketch of the taking of a large mascalonge 
near Clayton, on the St. Lawrence, is related by " Rambler," 
in the New York Times, August 10, 1860, who says : " It is 
not uncommon to see little boys and girls in skiffs, rowing 
about the river, trolling. One day last week a small boy 
was thus engaged in the bay, near the vessels lying at the 
wharf, when he ' fastened' (a local term) to a muskallonge. 
Being alone in the boat, with no implements to secure him 
or kill him, and the fish being about as heavy as the boy, it 

* Furman's Notes. 



FISH. 205 

was a fair, and for a long time seemed to be a very doubt- 
ful resulting fight. The lad, however, had the advantage ; 
for while the fish was being weakened by the struggle, the 
boy held his own. The boat swayed round and round as the 
maskallonge struck out right and left, till at last the lad 
succeeded in getting Mr. Maskallonge's head over the gun- 
wale, and, by one sudden convulsion of the fish, in he came 
into the boat. And now the reader may suppose the fight 
was ended. Not so, for it had but just begun ; for the boats 
sit low upon the water, and these fish, averaging about five 
feet in length, will go overboard, if not prevented, quicker 
than they came in. The little fellow let go the line and 
seized Mr. Muskallonge around the body, and a rough-and- 
tumble ensued upon the bottom of the boat, the fish being 
first uppermost and then the boy ; but he held on and hal- 
loed stoutly for help, when one of the guides, seeing his 
condition, shot out with his boat from the shore and towed 
in the contending parties. But the little fellow never re- 
linquished his hold till the club was applied to the muskal- 
longe's head, when it was ascertained the fish weighed for- 
ty-eight and one-half pounds. Mr. Johnson, the proprietor 
of the Walton House, sent the fish to the proprietor of 
the Everett House, in New York." Forty years ago is 
found in the Commercial Advertiser (December 10, 1824) the 
following : " Maskeenonjai. — Among the wonders of our 
waters will be found the huge and delicious maskeenonjai. 
This fish is often taken in the nets with the white-fish, on 
which it feeds with great voracity. It is taken of dimen- 
sions from ten to fifty pounds, and we have heard of some 
that weighed seventy ; but the largest that has been caught 
this season was taken a few evenings since, by Mr. Joseph 
Loranger, at a fishing-ground a short distance below this 
city (Detroit) ; it measured four feet four inches in length, 
was twenty-seven inches in circumference, and weighed for- 
ty-seven pounds. On opening it three white-fish were found 
in its belly, the largest of which was twenty-two inches in 
length. A few days ago a fine maskeenonjai was presented 



206 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

to Colonel Smyth, of this city, by Colonel Bunce, of St. 
Clair : it weighed forty-three pounds. Its skin and head, 
together with a fine white-fish that was taken from its belly, 
has been prepared by a young gentleman of this place, and 
will probably be sent to the New York Museum, as that in- 
stitution is destitute of this ichthyological specimen." 

Black-fish, known as tan tog* in the Eastern States. — 
This is, by some, considered one of the best fish for boiling : 
with others, again, it is not a favorite. They are generally 
found alive on the " stands," as they live a great while out 
of water, being a bottom fish, and of a very slimy nature.* 
The name " Black-fish," no doubt, is derived from the color 
of its back and sides, being of a bluish black, and spotted 
underneath with very thick, fleshy lips. I have seen them, 
however, of many colors, where they have lain together in 
large numbers, with patches or spots of reddish brown, and 
sometimes white, etc. In season from June to December, 
weight from three-quarters to five pounds, although I am 
told the firm of Rogers & Co., Fulton Market, had one 
which weighed twenty-three pounds, taken in 1845. The 
Herald, of September 29, 1855, notices: "A fine large black- 
fish, weighing nearly twenty-eight pounds, was caught at 
McComb's Dam, on Thursday last," etc. 

Blue-fish or snapping mackerel. — Several years 
ago this species of mackerel enjoyed the name of horse- 
mackerel and blue-mackerel, and is now known in Virginia 
as green-fish, in Carolina as skip-jack, and in the Philadel- 
phia markets as tailors. The first name denotes its color, 
although lighter on the sides and underneath. The com- 
mon size runs from two to six pounds, although sometimes 
found above ten pounds weight. When fresh from the 
water this fish is excellent, but grows strong and rancid 

* A most remarkable feature in the black-fish is the heart, which shows 
muscular life sometimes hours after having been taken out of a living fish. 
I saw one, or, rather, part of one, which showed signs of life four and one- 
half hours after it was brought to me. The movement was curious, as the 
point of the heart would raise when the muscular contraction of the sides 
took place, which it would do at short intervals. 



FISH. 207 

after being out of the water any length of time. In season 
from 1st of June to end of October. A few fine large fish 
are found in November. 

A blue-fish of twelve pounds' weight was caught by a 
gentleman of New York, on the 10th of September, 1864, 
while he, with some six others, was fishing off West Island, 
near Newport. This fish, when opened, had nine large fish- 
hooks clustered together in its maw, all of which were iden- 
tified by the fishermen on the island as having belonged to 
different parties who had been fishing there during the pre- 
ceding three days. They were all in a good state of pres- 
ervation, one of which appeared like a hook that a little 
while before had been taken off the line of one of the party 
by some large fish. 

Another incident, somewhat of an amusing character, 
happened during this excursion, which in substance ap- 
peared as follows : After this party of seven left "West 
Island, they proceeded to another called "Cuttyhunk," 
where they arrived in the evening, and directed their steps 
to one of the two residences or small houses which this 
island contains, and inquired of the matron if they could 
be accommodated with meals and lodging for the night. 
"Wall," she drawled out, after counting over the party; 
" we can eat you all, but we can't sleep but two — t'other 
house could sleep the rest on you." 

After the evening meal was finished, five of the party 
made their way to t'other house, while the other two 
repaired to their sleeping-room above, which they found 
pretty well filled with all sorts of hunting and fishing traps, 
besides a pretty good bed. So they sat down for a talk ; but 
to make themselves more comfortable, one drew forth his 
segar-case, while the other prepared the delicate-looking 
snells and large hooks for the big ones which they expected 
to take next day. So they chatted, smoked, and worked on 
until the tackle was perfectly satisfactory. In the mean 
time, our smoker had quietly taken possession of a part of 
one end of the bed, where a reclining position seemed more 



208 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

acceptable to an unusually tired body ; and soon after the 
other thought that he might as well, at least, enjoy the 
same amount of repose, so he as quietly slipped into the 
bed, where Morpheus soon after claimed him as his own. 

Several times through the course of the evening, the 
matron's son had mounted the stairway and looked anxiously 
towards the smoker, who kept the white curling smoke 
ascending, so that at least every corner and crevice of the 
room would become somewhat disagreeable quarters for 
any hungry mosquito that was waiting for a feast. The 
boy at last excitedly jerked out something about " peowder 
being dangerous about there," then quickly returned. But 
our smoking friend supposed that he either wanted him to 
go to bed and save light, or else fearing that he would set 
the bed on fire, concluded that as he had not yet completed 
his usual number of Havanas, he would not heed the boy. 
However, the unusual noise made by the boy's return again 
awakened our sleeper, who found the smoker yet enjoying 
his segar ; and then followed the boy's voice, which rang 
out in his nasal twang — "I say, mister, you'd better be 
car'ful of that segar, as there is an open keg of peowder right 
under the bed, which you mought set fire to /" It was now 
clearly understood by both, and enough to immediately ex- 
tinguish not only the segar, but also a good deal of sound 
sleep which they expected to enjoy that night. They talked 
and thought over the matter, but came to the conclusion 
that the family, by having this keg of " villainous saltpetre" 
so dangerously exposed, were preparing to give a warm re- 
ception to the Southern pirates, who had been so lately 
sneaking around the neighborhood under false colors, and 
destroying the water-craft belonging to the poor fishermen, 
but which powder had been so near giving a. warming to 
their Northern visitors and tired friends. 

Yellow pike perch, glass-eyed pike, Mg-eyed 
pike, pike of the lakes, or Ohio salmon. — This 
fine and truly American fish is sometimes known as " wall- 
eyed pike," in consequence of their large eyes becoming 



FISH. 209 

white or clouded after death. It is a much larger, rounder, 
and longer fish than the common yellow perch. The fins 
are of a golden or yellow color, back and head a purplish 
brown, the sides yellow, and the belly white. Generally 
found here in the winter and early spring months, weighing 
from two to six pounds, and are very succulent and delicate 
eating, particularly when boiled, as the flesh is firm, flakey, 
and white. They are caught in immense numbers in prin- 
cipally all the great lakes, some upwards of forty pounds 
weight, large numbers of which are salted and barrelled for 
the winter's use, and sent to the large cities. 

€fray pike perch appears to be another variety of 
the above. Those that I saw, on several occasions, were 
quite different in color, a little slimmer, and a more delicately- 
formed fish ; but perhaps they were poor, and the color 
changed from different waters or food. I, however, have 
never seen them so large and fine as the former. 

Oblong flounder, fluke, or spotted flounder. 
— These, one of the varieties of flat-fish, are usually found 
large and plentiful in their season, and are commonly known 
among fishermen by the name of " fluke." They are quite 
oblong in shape, the color of a dark olive-green, mottled 
with dark and light spots, and white underneath. The 
mouth is large and oblique, and opens on the left side, 
while the eyes are on the right side — that is, if you stand at 
the tail and look towards the head, when the back is up. 
In season in the months from August to November, and 
average about two and a half pounds. 

On the 13th of October, 1864, I found four varieties of 
the flat-fish in Jefferson Market, viz. : oblong flounder, long- 
toothed flounder, spotted turbot, and New York flat-fish, all 
nearly of one size. They were all nicely fried, and my pref- 
erence was with the oblong flounder, as being the best table- 
fish, the flesh being close, firm, and well flavored ; it, how- 
ever, was a young specimen. 

A remarkable incident occurred in the taking of one of 
these fish, at the foot of Twelfth-street, North Eiver, Sep- 

14 



210 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

tember 28, 1864. The fluke was caught by a young butcher, 
who perceived something like an eel partially hanging 
from his mouth, when he came to take the hook out. A 
friend of mine happened near by, who took the fish and 
cut out a small garter- snake, about eighteen inches in 
length, part of which was decayed. It is supposed that the 
snake had been crossing the water, near the Jersey shore, 
and was snapped up by this fish, or had been first killed 
and thrown into the water. 

Toothed flat-fish, or summer flounder.— This 
fish is generally known by the common name of flounder, 
although some call all the varieties of flat-fish " flounders." 
De Kay, however, to designate them, the varieties with the 
eyes on the right side he terms flounders, and those with 
them on the left he calls flat-fish. 

The color of this fish is of a reddish brown, with numer- 
ous small rusty-colored spots on the body, and white under- 
neath. The flesh is well-flavored, and they are always found 
plentiful in the summer months, weighing from one pound 
to ten. The large fish, however, are not so plentiful as the 
preceding ; the small ones are good pan-fish. The fisher- 
men occasionally skin and bone {hese (and other) fish, when 
they are known as " fillets of flounders," and are much more 
delicate in this manner. 

Pickerel (known in Philadelphia as " pike," and in Vir- 
ginia as "jack"). — This fresh-water fish, when in good con- 
dition, is very firm-fleshed, sweet, and well flavored, best in 
the winter and spring months, from September until March, 
and generally found quite plenty in our markets. They are 
quite a lengthy and a square-backed fish, with one fin on 
the back near the tail. Their upper jaw has somewhat the 
appearance of a duck's bill, and the eyes are quite small 
and crafty-looking. The color on the back is of a bluish- 
gray, and sometimes of a greenish cast. The sides are also 
of a muddy yellow, and quite full of dark irregular marks. 

Another variety of this fish, known by the New York 
fishermen as "pike," is described as a short, thick-bodied 



FISH. 211 

fish, rather more spotted than the preceding one, and of a 
lighter bluish-gray, usually found on their stands, above 
ten pounds weight. I have heard of pickerel being taken 
above sixty pounds. It is also asserted that they will eat 
any thing they can master ; and three have been taken on 
one hook, in their greediness to devour each other. The 
finest of the variety, called pike, are taken from the Sauger- 
ties Creek, which leads into the waters of the Hudson. 
They, however, are quite scarce, and, when found here, they 
sell at an extra price. 

The third variety of this fish is called the " brook pick- 
erel," which are smaller ; they also have a shorter head, and 
the marks on the side run across the body in a regular 
manner, but quite clouded. The lower (or ventral) fins are 
usually quite red ; the flesh is also not so delicate as the 
other varieties, being quite soft, and sometimes it has a 
groundy taste. Many fine pickerel are brought from Long 
Island ; but they are found in all the fresh-water streams, 
lakes, creeks, ponds, etc., through the States. 

A curious incident of the pickerel is found in the Post 
Boy, March 14, 1765, in the London news, which reads — 
"A large pike was caught in the v Biver Ouse, which weighed 
upwards of twenty-eight pounds, and was sold to a gentle- 
man in the neighborhood for a guinea. As the cookmaid 
was gutting the fish, she found, to her great astonishment, 
a watch, with a black ribbon and two steel seals annext, in 
the body of the pike. The gentleman's butler, upon open- 
ing the watch, found, the maker's name, Thomas Green- 
field, Burnham, Norfolk. Upon strict inquiry, it appears 
that the said watch was sold to a gentleman's servant, who 
was unfortunately drowned about six weeks ago, in his way 
to Cambridge, between this place and South Ferry. The 
watch is still in possession of Mr. John Eoberts, at the 
" Cross-keys," in Littleport, for inspection of the public." 

The Trenton Federalist has the following curious incident 
under the head of " Singular. — A person in the neighbor- 
hood of Crosswicks, Burlington County, having set a gill- 



212 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

net for fish in Crosswicks Creek, on going to examine it, 
found a large hawk seated on the water over the net. 
Coming near the place, he also fonnd a pike (pickerel) 
caught in the net, which had seized one foot of the hawk in 
his mouth, holding him to the spot. Thus secured, both 
hawk and pike were taken by the fisherman. On examin- 
ing the pike, which was entangled near the cork-line, it was 
perceived that the hawk had struck it with one of his talons 
in the back, upon which it appeared that the pike had 
seized him by the other and held him fast. The pike was 
of a small size, the hawk quite large, measuring three feet 
nine inches from tip to tip of each wing." 

Kirby's "Bridgewater Treatise," speaking of the lon- 
gevity of fishes, says : " A pike was taken in 1754, at Kaiser's 
lantern, which had a ring fastened to the gill-covers, from 
which it appeared to have been put in the pond of that 
castle by order of Frederick II., in 1437, a period of two 
hundred and sixty-seven years. It is described as being 
nineteen feet long, and weighed three hundred and fifty 
pounds. 

White-fish, or lake-shad. — This excellent fish is 
taken in great abundance from the large lakes and rivers. 
Their general appearance is somewhat like the shad, with 
a very small head and thick body, color of a bluish-gray 
on the back, lighter on the sides, and white underneath. 
When taken fresh out of the water, they have a beautiful, 
bright, pearly lustre, and show several of the colors of the 
rainbow. Those caught in the clear, cold waters, and per- 
fectly fresh, are considered the best flavored ; and it is said 
that persons can live longer on white-fish than on any other 
fresh-water fish. They are found in large quantities in the 
salted or cured state here, but fresh only in the winter and 
spring months, weighing usually from two to four pounds, 
although some have been taken above sixteen pounds. 

Seines of an enormous size are used at Wellington Beach, 
on Lake Ontario. I read of one being two hundred and 
twenty-two rods long, and about twenty-nine feet deep, 



FISH. 213 

covering an area of four acres. In the month of July, 1857, 
at one haul, forty-five thousand seven hundred white-fish 
were brought to the beach ; and, for nine consecutive days, 
the smallest haul was eighteen thousand. They are usually 
packed at the average of one hundred and thirty to the 
barrel. "About the year 1816 or '17," says Furman, in his 
notes, " the white-fish from the lakes was held in very low 
estimation in Ohio and New York. A merchant in Detroit, 
in 1818, sent about one hundred barrels of them to Cincin- 
nati, as an experiment ; but no purchasers could be found, 
and he lost the whole of them. At that time white-fish 
were worth about three dollars per barrel ; and boat-loads 
of them were frequently sold at three or four dollars per 
hundred, and six or seven dollars per barrel ; and there were 
orders in Detroit from Ohio and the western towns of New 
York for thousands of barrels of white-fish. In 1842, they 
sold for eight dollars per barrel at Albany and New York." 

The Commercial Advertiser, December 10, 1824, has the 
following account : " White-fish, as we have been told by 
an old inhabitant, were first taken with nets in the Detroit 
river about fifty years ago. It is said that a British lieu- 
tenant, who was stationed at that time at this post, first 
discovered the movements of the white-fish, and suggested 
the idea of taking them with nets. He was one night on a 
visit to the sentinels, and was told by one who was stationed 
near the shore that he had heard at times a rushing noise 
in the water. The lieutenant waited a few minutes, and 
had the pleasure of hearing the rushing, which, as he was 
somewhat acquainted with fishing, he knew to be caused by 
an immense number of fish rising to the surface of the 
water. A small net was immediately got in readiness, and 
such was the number caught, that, from four dollars, the 
price soon fell to four shillings a hundred." 

Weak-fish, or salt-water trout.— This fish is also 
called " squeteague," and " chequet," in the Eastern States. 
When fresh caught it is excellent, delicate, and well-tasted ; 
but it is not a firm-fleshed fish, and, when kept some time, 



214 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

its flesh becomes very soft and loses its flavor. It is best 
broiled. It is said it derives its name from a tender or 
weak mouth, as it frequently escapes by the tearing out of 
the hook. Color of a bluish-gray, with speckled back and 
sides, belly white, fins yellow, and the under jaw or chin 
quite red. Weight from a half-pound to eight pounds. I 
saw one of just fourteen and a half pounds weight in Jeffer- 
son Market, and have heard of their weighing twenty-two 
pounds. Their average weight, however, is about one 
pound. In season from May to October, but best in Sep- 
tember and October. 

Codfish. — This fish is quite extensively known, and 
always to be found in our markets. When fresh, its flesh is 
white, firm, flakey, and very good. When salted and dried, 
it affords a substantial, wholesome, and cheap article of 
diet, for which a substitute could not readily be procured. 
Codfish which have been caught in February, or in early 
spring months, in the deep water, are split and slightly 
salted, after which they are laid in piles in a cool, dark 
place, and covered with salt hay, eel-grass, or sedge, then 
put under a heavy weight, for two or three months ; then 
again, to finish the process of dunning, they should be re- 
piled and repacked, and stand as long again, which, in the 
end, will change them all to a clear dun color, and also their 
name to " dun-fish." 

On the fish-stand there often appears codfish of various 
colors or markings ; some will be full of streaks, light and 
dark, many of the usual gray color, others of a greenish- 
gray, and others again of a reddish-brown ; the fishermen 
say this is caused by their being taken in different waters, 
and apply the names of rock-cod, shoal-cod, etc. 

They are generally found alive from October to May, 
after this time they come in boxes, packed in ice, generally 
from the " Banks," Nantucket, etc., with the heads off and 
drawn. General weight from two to ten pounds, and often 
exceeds sixty. Instances are noticed where they have been 
caught weighing above one hundred pounds. Storer speaks 



FISH. 215 

of a " Mr. Anthony Holbrook, a fishmonger in the Quincy 
Market, informs me he saw taken in the spring of the year 
1807, at Newledge, sixty miles southeast of Portland, Maine, 
a codfish that weighed one hundred and seven pounds, and, 
to use his own words, upon its head were barnacles the size 
of the thumb." There are several others of great weight 
which appear worthy of notice here. In the New York 
Journal, etc., April 3d, 1793 : "A codfish was lately sold in 
the Newburyport Market which weighed ninety-eight pounds. 
The length of this fish was five feet and a half ; its girth, at 
the thickest part, three feet four inches." In the month of 
February, 1823, the Marblehead fishermen sent a codfish, 
weighing eighty-four pounds, as a present to John Q. Adams, 
the Secretary of State. The fish was frozen with great care, 
in order to preserve it, incased in a box of ice, and transmitted 
with a letter from the donors. Then from the Daily Adver- 
tiser, June 14, 1827, we read : " An extraordinary large cod- 
fish was caught off Portsmouth, N. H., in the month of June 
last (1827), weighing ninety-seven pounds." The Lynn 
News, of January, 1857, also says : " The largest cod we 
ever heard of was taken last week by Captain Nathan Blan- 
chard, of Swampscott ; it weighed ninety-four pounds un- 
dressed, seventy-eight dressed, and was sold in Faneuil 
Hall Market, Boston." 

Several parts of the codfish are also used when properly 
prepared : the tongue is separated from the head when the 
fish is first caught ; this, with the air-bladder, or sack, are 
.called sounds and tongues, which are cured and found on 
sale. They are highly nutritious, being almost entirely pure 
gelatine. The liver is principally reserved by the fisher- 
men, for the sake of the large quantity of cod-liver oil which 
is extracted from them by heat and pressure. 

Codfish, no doubt, is one of the best fish known to make 
the excellent fisherman's dish called " chowder," and for the 
following preparation — which I think is the best one I ever 
ate — I am indebted to the late Michael Burnham, Esq., bj 
whom it was sent to me : 



216 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

Fish-chowder. — Take a codfish about six or seven pounds, 
cut in slices about one inch thick ; take six or seven medium- 
sized potatoes and cut in slices ; take one pound salt pork, 
cut in slices, and fried brown ; when sufficiently done, take 
out the pork from the pot with one half the fat. Now put 
in a layer of fish, then some of the potatoes and pork, with 
some pilot-bread ; and so on, alternately, until all is in the 
pot. Pour over the whole a quart of water and one pint of 
milk ; add salt and pepper to your taste, and boil twenty 
minutes. A few onions improve it for those who are fond 
of them. 

P. S. — To the above I add one hundred clams or oysters, 
in layers with the rest, and a half tumbler of port or a tum- 
bler of claret wine two or three minutes before taking off 
the fire, stirring it up well. 

In 1792, the following was published as a " Curious fact. 
— At the first discovery of the northern continent of Amer- 
ica, few or no codfish were found to the southward of the 
Banks of Newfoundland and Sable Island. About twenty- 
five or thirty years ago (1760) they were first discovered 
off Sandy Hook, in the vicinity of New York. It has been 
observed that ever since that time they have gradually be- 
come more and more plenty on the fishing grounds off 
the Neversink, in six, seven, and eight fathoms of water, 
and perhaps equally so many miles further eastward. The 
present season has afforded an abundance hitherto unknown 
in that port. Within these few years they begin to be found 
off and about the capes of Delaware Bay, though in com- 
paratively small quantities, and, it is said, two or three have 
been caught last year about Chinagoteague Shoals, in lati- 
tude thirty-eight, on the coast of Maryland. From these 
facts it would seem that the codfish is gradually progressing 
southward, and may, perhaps, in time, be caught along the 
whole extent of coast belonging to the United States. It is 
observed by coasting vessels that mackerel are, in the same 
manner, advancing more to the southward than formerly. 
We may conclude, from hence, that the Banks of Newfound- 



FISH. 217 

land are the original habitation of the codfish, from whence, 
on account of their prodigious increase, they are annually 
pushing out colonies in every direction where sustenance 
can possibly be found." 

Haddock. — This fish has something of the appearance 
of codfish, as to size and color, with a black line running 
along each side from the gills to the tail. The bones in the 
head are more prominent and the under jaw shorter. It 
appears in season with the cod, and is found very good in 
the months of November and December ; then again in June 
and July, when the flesh is more compact and the flavor ex- 
cellent, but I think not equal to the codfish. 

" Something curious." Captain Stetson informs us that on 
Wednesday last, while on a fishing party, off Cohasset 
Kocks, he caught a haddock, and upon opening it for the 
purpose of cooking, he found in the stomach three hundred 
and forty dollars in old continental money, new emission ! 
The paper was formed into a roll and was but little injured. 
— Boston papers, also Commercial Advertiser, July 28, 1804. 

Halibut. — This is one of the best large cut fish that we 
have for the table, and is seldom found out of our markets. 
When placed on the fish-stands for sale, it is always cut as 
it is wanted. Its flesh is pearly white and very nutritious; 
and that taken from a fish weighing from fifty to seventy-five 
pounds is considered the best. The flesh from the large 
coarse-grained fish is dry and tasteless ; and that of a 
yellowish cast, without the pearly brightness, is apt to 
be strong and unwholesome. The nape or thin flank part 
is an excellent piece, being usually fat and juicy, for boiling. 
Halibut is brought principally from Boston, and is received 
here alive in the months of March, April (when it is consid- 
ered best), and May ; after this time and through the warm 
weather it comes packed in ice, until the cold weather com- 
mences, after which, if not found through the winter, it is in 
consequence of severe cold weather or storms, which ren- 
ders it hazardous to fish for them at sea. In a cured state, 
pickled, salted, and smoked, they are also found in our mar- 



218 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

kets. A very large halibut was taken by a Gloucester fish- 
erman in 1860, which weighed two hundred and forty-five 
pounds. Another, still larger, is found noticed in the Amer- 
ican Weekly Mercury, June 22d, 1732, in the following lan- 
guage : "Our fishermen say they have lately chatch'd an 
holybote weighing three hundred weight." In the attempt 
to take a very large halibut, the Portland Argus (August, 
1847) thus notices a "Narrow Escape. — The two 'fishing 
women,' somewhat celebrated on this coast, reside on this 
island (Mt. Deseret, Maine). One of them came near being 
carried to the bottom by a halibut a short time since. As 
is their custom, one sat in the bow and the other in the 
stern, with the little skiff nearly filled with fish. The 
woman in the bow of the boat hooked a very large halibut, 
and called her associate to help ; but she dared not leave 
her seat for fear of sinking their loaded boat. The fish 
was allowed to run to the bottom two or three times to 
get worried, and then drawn alongside to be killed and 
drawn in. It seems he did not like to be mastered by 
a lone woman, and resisted. In the affray, a large cod- 
hook attached to the line was drawn into her hand, and 
then came the danger. The unsubdued monster, being in 
his native element, now set out for the bottom again ; but 
the heroine, not wishing to accompany him, clung to the 
boat. She was drawn nearly overboard, but before losing 
her hold of the boat the line providentially parted, and he 
thus became disengaged. To this fact alone she owes the 
preservation of her life. The fish was probably from six to 
nine feet in length. The ' fishing women' follow their busi- 
ness closely, and are very successful ; nothing will induce 
them to change their employment. They are mother and 
daughter, the mother being over sixty years of age." 

Black (fresh- water) bass, black perch. — This is a 
fine fresh-water fish, when taken from the cold, clear waters 
of the lakes, and is well known to our fresh-water fishing 
sportsmen. They are taken from all of the Western lakes, 
and rivers that lead to them. In size and shape they some- 



FISH. 219 

what resemble the salt-water black-fish, but shorter, a 
rounder back, and the under jaw longer. The color is of a 
dusky bluish-black, and the under parts of a bluish- white. 
I have taken many in Cayuga Lake, from one to two and a 
half pounds weight ; average about two pounds, and are 
found in our markets scattering from October to April. 

The Commercial Advertiser, September 8, 1820, states, 
that " a fish was caught with a hook, in the outlet of Seneca 
Lake, on Tuesday last, by Horace Teall, called a black-bass, 
in which was found a copper, or half -penny token, bearing 
date, 1815, and the size of a cent." 

Sea lamprey, commonly called lamprey-eels. — 
These fish are usually taken in large numbers, in the months 
of March, April, May, and June, but are seldom found 
plentiful in the public markets, in consequence of their not 
being much sought after, as their flesh is not generally ad- 
mired, except by a few country people and foreigners. 
Large quantities, however, are salted and packed in barrels, 
then sent abroad. It is said that stewed lampreys were a 
dish once held in high estimation in England, and that 
"King Henry the First" died of a surfeit, eating too heartily 
of this then favorite dainty. My experience, however, in 
the eating of this fish was rather unfavorable, as I found its 
flesh insipid and dry eating, dark-colored, and without a 
hard bone. 

The color of this fish is of a brown olive, marbled mix- 
ture, fins red and yellow, a bluish tail, and with seven 
breathing holes along both sides of the neck, and possesses 
very little tenacity of life — much less than the common eel. 

In the months of May and June the lampreys are con- 
sidered the best, when large quantities are taken up the 
Hudson Eiver, and especially in the Croton and other 
rivers. Doctor M. Beardsley says he has taken them in large 
numbers in the Housatonic, at New Milford, near the falls, 
with a long pole, having a sharp, crooked hook. When 
they are seen in the water, sucking fast of the rocks and 
stones, then, by running the pole down so as to bring the 



220 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

hook just under their bodies, when a jerk up hooks them 
fast, and they are hauled out. In this manner thousands are 
taken, and salted down ior a part of the family provisions. 

The Canadian Gourant (1831) thus notices a " Curious 
Occurrence. — On Wednesday last a large sturgeon was ob- 
served to leap from the water into a canoe lying at the island 
in the port, opposite the foot of St. Joseph-street. Im- 
mediately means were taken to secure the fish, which, when 
taken, was found to have two lampreys, about seven inches 
in length, sticking to its body — one on the top of the head 
and the other on the insertion of the large fin next the gills. 
There cannot be a doubt but the fish, in its agonies and 
efforts to get rid of the lampreys, sprang out of the water 
with such violence as to precipitate it into the canoe in its 
descent. The peculiar construction of the mouths of the 
lampreys show how powerfully they can attach themselves 
to any substance, and seem expressly constructed to give 
them a powerful suction ; nor is the rapacity of these fishes 
less than their power of laying hold of their prey, for when 
kept some time out of the water, and again placed near the 
sturgeon, they seized it a second time with much eagerness. 
The sturgeon measured three feet eight inches ; his little 
tormentors not a sixth part of his length, nor a sixteenth of 
his weight." 

The sword-fish is a very large, round-boclied fish, and, 
like the halibut, is seen for sale, cut in pieces, on the fish- 
stands. Its flesh is fine-grained, tender, and well-tasted, 
and looks much the color of veal. Considered very whole- 
some, either in the fresh or salted state. It is usually sold 
at a less price per pound than the halibut. In season in 
the months of June, July, and August. Its color is of the 
deepest bluish-black upon the back, gradually growing 
lighter underneath, the belly being of ashy white, or tar- 
nished silvery shade. They vary in size and weight — from 
eight to twelve feet in length, of which the sword consti- 
tutes about one-third, and from one hundred and fifty to 
four hundred and fifty pounds weight. 



HSH. 221 

The New York Sun, July 7, 1855, says : " A sword-fish, 
fourteen feet nine inches in length, and weighing five hun- 
dred and thirty-seven and a half pounds, was caught off 
Block Island,^ by the crew of' a pilot-boat, and carried into 
New Bedford." 

The Commercial Advertiser, of June 25, 1817, also says : 
"A sword-fish was caught off the Hook, on the 17th inst., 
brought to our market, and sold in pieces, at two shillings 
the pound. The sword, tail, and fins were purchased by 
Enoch Johnson, Esq., and by him presented to the Lyceum.'" 

" This fish" (Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell says) " appeared to 
have been twelve feet long, and five feet round. I agree 
with you, that the flesh is excellent eating. The broiled 
relish prepared for me at Mr. Eairchild s, was in reality very 
fine. 

" My friend, John Banny, Esq., informs me that another of 
the same species was taken by one of the pilots near Sandy 
Hook (as this one of yours was), in the year 1791, and ex- 
hibited to the people of this city. That sword-fish is re- 
ported to have been sixteen feet in length." 

The Royal Gazette, July 27, 1782, contains a notice, " To 
the Cukious. — A most surprising fish of an enormous size, 
called a sea-warrior, armed with a weapon or broadsword, 
upwards of four feet long, projecting from his head, and so 
sharp, that in a few minutes it will kill the largest whale ; 
it is by far the greatest curiosity ever seen in this part of 
the world. To be shown this day and to-morrow at Mr. 
Jeroleman's Punch House, at the tea-water pump (New 
Tork). Grown persons, one shilling ; and children sixpence." 

The Pennsylvania Gazette, October 3, 1751, contains the 
following attack of a sword-fish (in an extract from a letter 
dated Boston, September 19). " In our passage from the 
Main to St. Eustatia, on the 26th of June, in the latitude of 
15 and longitude 61, about eleven o'clock at night, was 
struck by a sword-fish on our starboard bow, which run 
his sword through our outside plank, and a timber of ten 
inches thick, and ceiling, and into the hold ten inches, and 



/ 



222 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

broke his horn off, and left it into the hold ten inches, which 
caused our vessel to have four feet and two inches of water 
in the hold ; but by our two pumps cleared her. We reckon 
that the horn (sword) went through fourteen inches and a 
half of solid oak." 

" The schooner Sarah Millner, of Kingston, in Jamaica, 
was, on her voyage from thence to this port, struck by a 
sword-fish, about twelve o'clock in the night, being out three 
days. The sword penetrated through solid timber thirteen 
inches thick, and protruding within the vessel upwards of 
seven inches, passed into a tierce of coffee. He stuck until 
seven o'clock the next morning, when he broke away, being 
severely wounded by strokes of the harpoon. The schooner 
being hove down yesterday, the sword was found and ex- 
tracted." — Commercial Advertiser, November 10, 1809. 

An interesting description of the catching of sword-fish, 
is given by a correspondent at Edgartown, Martha's "Vine- 
yard, to the New York Tribune, in July, 1855. He says, 
" one of his companions, whom he was fishing with, dis- 
covered a fish to the leeward of the boat ; headed for him at 
once, while his companions commenced to ' clear away' for 
a fight. Dan's object seemed to be to sail ' head-on' to 
him, assigning to me as a reason that the fish could not see 
ahead. After various manoeuvres he had succeeded in 
bringing the boat in range, when he resigned the tiller to 
his companion and went forward to the bow, taking with 
him a harpoon. The sword-fish was coming along at a 
rapid rate upon the top of the water, and I was beginning 
to fear the consequences of a collision. However, I kept 
still, and when the fish was within a rod of the boat, Dan 
made a demonstration which caused the fish to 'wear 
around,' at which moment Dan hurled the harpoon at him 
with surprising precision and force, taking him through the 
neck. Of course there was a line fast to the harpoon, which 
ran over the side with great rapidity, for the fish, as soon 
as wounded, dived down perpendicularly.. The line was 
made fast to an empty keg, headed up, which was now 



ush. 223 

thrown overboard, and we started off, to avoid a too close 
acquaintance with the wounded and excited creature for the 
present. I should think it was full ten minutes before he 
again appeared upon the surface, and when he did he went 
through the water with astonishing velocity (Dan said at 
the rate of twenty five knots), dragging with him the keg, 
which was most of the time under water. This rate of speed 
soon exhausted him, however, and he finally lay still upon 
the surface. On this we steered for the keg and took it on 
board, and then cautiously approached the fish. When 
near enough, Dan dealt him two well-directed blows with a 
lance (or spade as he termed it) upon his back-bone, which 
caused him to struggle convulsively for a few moments, 
when he was taken alongside and rolled on board. In this 
way we succeeded in capturing four of these monsters, the 
smallest of which weighed about one hundred pounds, and 
the largest about three hundred and fifty pounds." 

Sturgeon. — The flesh of this large peculiar-looking 
fish, when found in our markets for sale, is always with the 
skin off, and cut up as the halibut. The young fat fish are 
considered the best, when its flesh has a light red or "beefy" 
appearance and the fat of a pale yellow color. Its flesh is 
considered wholesome, and, when properly prepared, it is 
really good eating. Some soak the flesh in scalding water 
long enough to take away the fatty substance, which is 
strong if the fish is large ; then cut it in steaks and fry it, 
when it tastes much like veal cutlets. It is much better to 
roast or bake, than to boil ; in fact, sturgeon-eaters seldom 
boil it. Many also prefer it salted and smoked, when to be 
had in that state. In season all through the summer 
months, when it is taken in the North Kiver. They com- 
mence to take them about the middle of April and continue 
until the 1st of September, and are principally of that 
variety called the sharp-nosed sturgeon, ranging in length 
from four to nine feet, and in weight from one hundred to 
above three hundred and fifty pounds. 

There appears an account of a sturgeon caught in 1855, 



224: THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

a short distance below Stockton, California, which weighed 
three hundred and fifty-four pounds, and measured nine feet 
eight inches in length. 

A brisk trade is done in sturgeon meat up the Hudson 
River, and more particularly at Albany, where no doubt, 
from its great plentifulness, cheapness, and peculiar color 
of the flesh, it became known with the name of " Albany 
Beef." At Philadelphia, also, I saw a great number of 
colored men engaged in the trade of catching, skinning, and 
disposing — always in bulk — by the fish or piece (never by 
weight), great numbers of this fish. 

The Commercial Advertiser, of 1822, notices an " Extra- 
ordinary Haul. — Some men who were engaged in fishing for 
shad in the river Delaware, opposite Tinicum Island, drew 
up one hundred and eleven sturgeon at one haul." 

In the north of Europe the flesh of the sturgeon furnishes 
acceptable ' food to a great many persons, while its air- 
bladder is converted into isinglass, and its roe into caviare. 
Dr. Smith in his work on Fish says : " During the long Lent 
of the Greek Church, and the weeks and fast-days, exceed- 
ing in the aggregate four months, sturgeon is the principal 
food of all European Russia. It was calculated in 1794, 
that 1,760,405 sturgeon yielded 4,366,800 pounds of caviare." 
This caviare is the roe of the sturgeon or other large fish, 
prepared by salting and pressing, and was considered a 
great delicacy when used with roast meats. There is also 
a very good oil extracted from the offal parts, which is 
used for the purposes of light." 

Pickled Sturgeon, appears to have been introduced 
in this country at an early day, perhaps before 1750, 
although I find no account of it until some four years after, 
when the New York Weekly Post-Boy (September 23, 1754) 
says : " Edward Broadfield is arrived in this city from 
Trenton, and brought a quantity of pickled sturgeon, and 
warranted to keep the year round. There is at the house 
of Scotch Johnny [for many years " Scotch Johnny" or John 
Thompson, kept the " Crown and Thistle," near the White 



fish. 225 

Hall stairs, N. T.], a keg opened, where all gentlemen may 
have an opportunity of seeing and tasting said fish." Some 
ten years after, the Gazette, April 22, 1765, says : " The North 
American sturgeon is growing in repute every day, so that 
it is likely to be in great demand in a short time." I should, 
however, be inclined to believe that it never became much 
in demand in New York, either pickled or otherwise, as but 
few advertisements notice it until after the revolution, when 
one is found which presents many claims for its general 
adoption. This is found in the Packet, October 25, 1784 : 
" Sturgeon put up in spices, equal if not superior in quality 
to what is done in Europe, no pains or expense being 
neglected in curing them. This fish, in the way it is put 
up, is reckoned a genteel dish through many parts of 
Europe ; and as it is ready fit for eating without any 
addition, renders it very convenient to masters of vessels, 
who by long voyages, storms, etc., are deprived of an op- 
portunity of cooking victuals. Orders are received at Mr. 
Bradford's coffee-house, where samples, as they are put up, 
are left." 

This jumping fish is also often seen, by almost every 
passenger in the summer season, when going up the North 
Biver, leaping clear out of the water some eight or ten feet ; 
and occasionally they not only make their last leap, but 
create some excitement. 

The New York Evening Post, in August, 1836, notices 
" An Incident. — A party of ten persons, of both sexes, was 
crossing the Hudson from Saugerties to Tivoli in a little 
boat rowed by two of the party. As they reached the 
middle of the river, a large sturgeon sprang from the water 
in front of them and threw his huge length into the bottom 
of the boat, passing directly between the feet of the two 
gentlemen who sat foremost, and laying himself exactly in 
the middle under the seats. Great was the surprise and 
confusion; but one of the gentlemen immediately caught 
the floundering fish by the tail, and tied it fast with the 
boat's painter. The creature in the mean time uttered the 

15 



226 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

most plaintive sound, moaning with a noise much like that 
of a cow. It was taken to Tivoli, where it was found to 
measure eight feet and a half in lengthy and to weigh one 
hundred and fifty pounds. It was cut up and given to the 
workmen of a foundry on the eastern bank of the river, who 
made an excellent supper on this " Albany Beef." 

A similar circumstance is shown in the Daily Times, 25th 
of July, 1854, which happened in Gardener's Bay, L. I. 
" Three persons sat fishing in a boat, one of whom, seated 
in the bow, was knocked overboard by being struck with 
a sturgeon jumping out of the water near where he sat. 
He was injured in the shoulder, and cut in the face, and 
came near being drowned." 

Another more singular circumstance is noticed in the 
New York Sun, September 3, 1856 : " Captain Simon, of the 
sloop Science, found a sturgeon floundering about his cabin, 
which he supposed must have jumped through the stern 
window, when near Caldwell's Landing, nearly opposite 
Peekskill, North Kiver." 

Then, in the Commercial Advertiser, of July 26, 1838, we 
find noticed a singular death, which occurred in that month 
in the following manner : " A sloop was sailing up the North 
Kiver, when a large sturgeon leaped out of the water and 
alighted upon the deck. All hands immediately busied 
themselves about securing the stranger ; and one of the 
men being near the side of the vessel, and to the leeward, 
was knocked or fell overboard with the fish, and was 
drowned." 

Fall herring, or shad herring" (also called "wee- 
sick" in Connecticut). — This fish has some of the appear- 
ance of a shad, but of a darker color ; on the back it is of a 
bluish-green, with dark-colored spots on the sides, and 
also with an appearance of spotted stripes running along 
the back and sides. They are usually taken, with the 
striped bass, in the months from July to December. Their 
average weight is about a pound and a half. A fine speci- 
men was sent to me on November 22, 1864, which weighed, 



fish. 227 

plump, three and a quarter pounds, measuring in length 
twenty and a quarter inches, and six inches in depth. It 
was very fat, the flesh not so white as the shad, nor was it 
so sweet, having a little of the herring flavor, and also very 
troublesome to eat in consequence of the many wiry bones. 
As it lay on my stall, many pronounced it a shad. 

The different varieties of the herring, like the shad, 
mackerel, etc., when taken from the water, die immediately. 
Most all kinds of herring, when taken in large quantities, 
are cured and smoked, and in that way they are often found 
for sale. When variously prepared they have been esteemed 
as an article of food from the most remote antiquity. One 
Guillaume Beuchel, a native of Brabant, in the fourteenth 
century, discovered a mode of pickling them, which was 
considered so remarkable, and of so much importance, that 
the Emperor Charles the Fifth, one hundred and fifty years 
afterwards, honored his grave with his royal person, and 
ate pickled herring on the green grass that waved above his 
bones. "By the corporation charter of the city of Nor- 
wich, England, the mayor has to present to the king, an- 
nually, a herring-pie. This custom is necessarily practised 
up to the present day. The pie has a standing crust, 
modelled in exact representation of Norwich Castle, and 
filled with herring." 

The Burlington herring have also had quite a 
reputation for the table. Large quantities were caught at 
Dunk's Ferry, says the Burlington Gazette (of 1845), many of 
which were cured by a Mr. Mitchell, at his establishment in 
Burlington. His method for curing was as follows : " The 
fish are brought to Mr. Mitchell directly from the nets — all 
Delaware Biver fish, and therefore perfectly fresh. They 
are then cleaned of scales and thrown into pickle, where 
they remain some hours, whence they are taken and strung 
on sticks containing a dozen, allowed to dry, and then sus- 
pended in the smoke-house, where a choking fog is raised 
by means of burning sawdust ; and, after a week of such 
fumigation, they are taken down, packed in boxes, and are 



228 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

ready for market. There is a peculiar flavor imparted to 
the Burlington herring by the pickle in which they are 
soaked previous to smoking." 

Clear-nosed ray. — This variety of the ray is usually 
found quite abundant, but always cut up, on some of the 
fish-stands, when it is often sold under the name of skate. 
The parts sold are only the fleshy side-fins, some of which 
appear of different forms and colors, showing that they were 
taken off from the different varieties of the ray and skate. 
This variety is of a brownish-gray on the back, covered 
with numerous irregular-shaped dark spots; head almost 
round, with a small, thin, semi-transparent nose, which feels 
like a tough jelly ; with small eyes, and a double, and some- 
times a treble, row of prickles along the middle of the back, 
down the sides of the tail. The tail is long, tapering, flat 
beneath, and round above. The flesh is not generally ad- 
mired, although some foreigners prefer it to either the 
sword-fish or sturgeon. It, however, improves by keeping, 
as it becomes more tender and less insipid. A small one, 
of some ten pounds, was sent to me, of which I prepared 
the parts to eat; and, although I had it cooked from a 
French receipt, yet I found it insipid and glutinous. Per- 
haps the condiments were not so plentifully used as they 
should have been ; but I think I should prefer some other 
kind of fish. 

One of our fishermen, in Washington Market, deals very 
extensively in this, as well as many other varieties of fish, 
some of which are not much thought of by other fishermen. 
The fleshy fins of this ray usually weigh from two to five 
pounds, and are generally found in season from October to 
April. There is another variety, called 

Spotted ray, of which I saw a small specimen at the 
Catherine Market, in July, 1864, weighing, perhaps, about 
four pounds. The head or nose was quite pointed, and the 
body covered with dark spots. The price of fish was very 
high that morning. Eels sold at twenty-five cents per pound ; 
fresh blue-fish, fifteen cents ; codfish and porgees, ten cents. 



fish. 229 

This fish, however, was offered, as he lay, for the whole of 
fifteen cents, and no buyers at that while I was there. An- 
other variety, called 

Whip-sting ray, are often taken around the harbor 
of New York. One was taken in the North Kiver, at the 
Woodlawn Dock, in 1852, which I supposed would weigh 
fifty pounds, with a common bass-pole and line ; however, 
it was in the hands of a skilful fisherman, who safely landed 
it on the shore, with the assistance of another person, in 
spite of its lashing tail and sharp spines. The color of the 
body was quite a dark olive-brown, with a short nose, and a 
long slim tail like a whip. And still another, called 

Cow-nosed ray, I saw at the Jefferson Market, some 
few years after, taken near the same place, by Messrs. 
Thomas Lawrence, George Starr, William S. Smith, and 
others. This specimen, however, was a much smaller one 
than the preceding, weighing twenty-one and a half pounds. 
It had a double nose, on the side of which were the eyes, 
instead of on the back like the preceding ; the color also 
about the same. The wings or fleshy fins were more 
pointed and wider in proportion, and the tail longer and 
thinner. The flesh of this variety is generally considered 
the best, as well as it is the most uncommon in our markets. 
Another, bearing the name of 

Smooth skate, is not quite so common as the last- 
named, having a smooth back, a thick, stout tail, with three 
rows of short stiff spines, one on each side, and the other on 
the top of the caudal appendage. Dr. Mitchell notices one 
that was taken beside a wharf in the East River, November 
5, 1815, the length of which was four feet and one inch, and 
the breadth two feet and four inches, being a large fish. 

Ilroad-sting ray. — This species is rarely found in 
our markets, but are sometimes caught East. One of my 
acquaintances took one that weighed one hundred and sixty 
pounds, which had a great deal more width than length. 
A part of the fleshy fins was prepared by one of the party 
and eaten, but was not generally liked. 



230 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Porpoises • — These large fish are sometimes caught, 
especially by sailors who have been long without fresh pro- 
visions. They harpoon them, and cut out the choice fleshy 
parts, enough for a day or two's use, and throw the balance 
overboard. The flesh is nearly the color of venison, and 
from a small fish is quite tender, with the flavor resembling 
beef, but fishy, and, when fried or made into fish-balls, is 
considered good eating, and much enjoyed by them. 

John Josselyn, gent., while on his passage to this country, 
in the month of May, 1638, writes — " In the afternoon, the 
mariners struck a porpoisce, called also a marsovius, or sea- 
hogg, with an harping-iron, and hoisted her aboard. They 
cut some of it into thin pieces, and fryed. It tastes like rusty 
bacon, or hung beef — if not worse ; but the liver boiled, and 
soused sometime in vinegar, is more grateful to the pallat." 
(The liver is much like a hog's, both in appearance and 
flavor.) Soon after " we took a sharke, a great one, and 
hoisted him on board. The seamen divided the sharke into 
quarters, and made more quarters about it than the purser, 
when he makes five quarters of an oxe ; and, after they had 
cooked him, he proved very rough-grained, not worthy of 
wholesome preferment ; but, in the afternoon, we took store 
of bonitoes, or Spanish dolphins — a fish about the size of a 
large mackerel, beautiful with admirable varieties of glitter- 
ing colours in the water, and was excellent food." (No 
doubt, the Spanish mackerel.) 

In another part of his account he says; "We took a 
young sharke, about three foot long, which being drest and 
dished by a young merchant, a passenger, happened to be 
very good fish, having very white flesh, in flakes like codd, 
but delicately cur'd." 

Some curious accounts of the taking of porpoises are 
worthy of notice, the first of which is found in the Post-Boy, 
November 12, 1744, and dated Dublin, June 5 : " Yesterday 
being a great spring tide, a vast army of porpusses came up 
Lough Foyle in pursuit of salmon. As they rolled by Lon- 
donderry, the sailors pursued them in their boats, and killed . 



FISH. 231 

fcliem all the way, drove them six miles farther up the lough, 
to the flats about Mount Gavelling. There a new chase 
began by our fishermen and country people, who stretched 
a net across the lough, and drove them up to the narrow 
passages of the Great Island, which lies a mile below this 
town ; there they fell on them with guns, swords, hatchets, 
and all kinds of weapons, and made a terrible slaughter. 
There were killed here above one hundred and sixty, besides 
as many mortally wounded and carried off by the flood. 
Including those the men of Londonderry killed, there have 
at least fallen in this battle five hundred porpoises, generally 
weighing from 1,000 to 1,500 weight, and very good oil. 
Some of them were full of young ones as big as calves ; and 
some had from six to ten salmon in their stomachs. But 
we hope that since these grand devourers are destroyed, 
our fishing will hereafter flourish, and we are pretty well 
repaid by this oil for the damage they have done." 

Another more interesting and laughable scene is found in 
the same paper dated January 13, 1752. In the news from 
Annapolis, Md., December 4, 1751 : " One Solomon Sharp, 
seeing a porpoise in a shallow creek, got some of his neigh- 
bors to go with him to assist in catching it, who shot at it, 
but without killing it. At length the porpoise, being pretty 
much fatigued, did not regard the canoe they were in, but 
frequently came very near it. Sharp watching his oppor- 
tunity, leaped upon the back of the fish, and was carried by 
it for a considerable time, sometimes up to his neck in 
water, till at length the porpoise running himself on shore, 
was there killed by the spectators." 

Dog-4i$h.— These fish are occasionally, and sometimes 
plentifully taken in our harbor, but seldom found for sale in 
our markets, although they are eatable. Large numbers 
are taken on the eastern coast, principally for the oil they 
furnish ; and in Truro and Provincetown, Mass., the fish are 
dried for food for cattle. In Scotland, the flesh of this fish 
is eaten by the lower classes ; there are also many people 
who eat them here when properly prepared, — that is, they 



232 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

skin them first before cooking, or scald them so that the 
outside skin is removed easily. I had a piece of a small 
one (some fifteen inches in length) nicely fried, sent to me, 
and found it very much the taste of halibut ; rather dry, but 
good. These fish have much of the appearance of young 
shark (and I am inclined to think they are the young of the 
same fish), having a small mouth underneath their long 
upper jaw. The color of the back is of a dark lead-color, 
lighter on the sides and quite white underneath, and with- 
out scales, although the skin is quite rough when stroked 
backwards, and is considerably used for polishing certain 
articles. 

In the History of Maine, it is stated that "one of 
Goswold's men (in 1602) had been cured by sassafras, in 
twelve hours, of a surfeit occasioned by excessive eating of 
dog-fish, then considered a delicious fish." 

In the year 1758, during the French war with England, 
we find the skins of dog-fish and shark were in some demand 
in New York. The Weekly Post-Boy, July 17, of that year, 
says : " As there is great plenty of dog-fish and sharks to 
be caught on this coast, any person that will catch them 
may hear of a purchaser for the skins, by inquiring of the 
printer hereof. The said skins must be stretched and dried 
in the shade, for which an encouraging price will be given." 

Shark. — A small young shark, not over two feet in 
length, is a very good fish to eat, being sweet, with much 
the flavor of the halibut. The hammer-head variety I also 
had cooked (with skin on), and several thought its flesh was 
much like a young halibut, not quite so dry as the common 
shark or dog-fish ; it however was from a fish weighing less 
than two pounds, which appeared very fat. Shark or dog- 
fish are seldom offered for sale in our markets, or not within 
my recollection, although I have known persons who have 
eaten the young of all the varieties, when they could get 
them. Sailors enjoy their flesh at sea, as it is " fresh meat." 
Many years ago, when shark were taken at our wharves, and 
especially near the Catherine or Old Fly Markets, it was a 



fish. 233 

treat for some of the old negroes, who were not long in cut- 
ting out the choice pieces, if the " shirk" was small, for their 
own particular use. There are many species of this fish, 
some of which have been taken of an enormous size ; and 
among the earliest account of these captures is one to be 
found in the New York Mercury, July 30, 1764, of one taken 
at Newport " by a number of whalemen, up the river, who 
went off from Mr. Bowers' shipyard. It is said to be forty- 
five feet in length, and that the liver of it will make ten 
barrels of oil." 

Then, Niks' Register, 1822, notices " a basking shark, that 
was caught near Middletown, N. J., on the 4th of June of 
that year. Its circumference was eighteen feet, length thirty- 
two feet ten inches." The Gazette (15th inst.) says of this sea- 
serpent : " The wonderful sea-serpent lately caught at Brown's 
Point, near Middletown, N. J., is now exhibiting at 253 
Broadway, opposite the City Hall. It has two perfect legs, 
with two joints in each, and a nail projecting out of the 
palm of each foot. This serpent has no bones, no heart, 
no tongue, no brains ; but a very large liver, which produced 
four barrels of oil." 

Under the head of news from Brighton, November 10, 
1812, we find the following in relation to this variety : " The 
enormous fish, on having been brought on shore at this 
place, was yesterday sold by the proprietors in the usual 
way of their disposing of other fish (commonly known by 
the name of Dutch auction). It was put up at £150, and 
kept reducing £5 at a time, till it came to £70, when it was 
purchased by Mr. Weller, who exhibited it during the day, 
and which produced to him many pounds. The emoluments 
which this animal has produced to the fishermen have been 
very large ; we are assured by the party that they have re- 
ceived between £200 and £300. The fish, we are now perfectly 
satisfied, is the squalis maximus, or basking shark. Upon 
opening this fish, the company present were much surprised 
at the enormous size of the liver, which consists of two 
lobes, measuring in length upwards of eleven feet, each 



234 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

being sixteen inches thick, and is supposed to weigh con- 
siderably above two tons." — Commercial Advertiser , J anuary 
7, 1813. 

Mies again, in 1826 (October 7), says : " A shark of enor- 
mous length of thirty feet, whose liver filled ten barrels, 
has been caught near Eastport. When first seen, it was 
thought to be a sea serpent, and pursued and killed." 

Then again in the same paper, June 6, 1835, we find : 
"Recently at Princetown, a large 'bone shark' was dis- 
covered nearly exhausted among a number of herring- 
seines, several of which he had torn away. A boat put off 
with a harpoon and lance, when he was immediately dis- 
patched and brought to shore. He measures twenty seven 
feet in length, girth about fifteen feet, and his liver is ex- 
pected to yield eight barrels of oil. This is said to be the 
largest shark ever taken in that quarter." 

Then, at an early date, is found a singular and dreadful 
attack of a shark, noticed in the New York Gazette and 
Weekly Post-Boy, August 12, 1751, in the Boston news, 
August 5, as follows : " Three men were in a canoe near 
Well ; a large shark came alongside of them, and, by putting 
his head over the side of the canoe, endeavored to overset 
it. That he attempted once or twice in vain, but at last 
effected it, and got one of the unhappy men, who was doubt- 
less devoured by the ravenous monster, as he was never 
seen after. The other two men, having righted the canoe, 
got into it and escaped." 

A miraculous escape, although a dreadful " fight with a 
shark," is found noticed in the Greenport, L. I., Watchman 
(September, 1865), which says : "At about nine A. m., of 
Sunday last, the schooner Catherine Willcox, of Lubec, 
Me., was proceeding down the Sound, and while becalmed 
abreast of that port, about eight miles off shore, the captain 
and a young man, seventeen years of age, named Peter 
Johnson, belonging at Robinston, Me., formerly a soldier, 
and who was now working his passage home, stripped off 
their clothing and jumped overboard for a swim. Johnson 



fish. 235 

swam a few rods from the vessel to pick up a small piece of 
wood, and, while returning, a huge shark, judged to have 
been fourteen or fifteen feet long, darted towards him, and 
seized him about the middle, and instantly disappeared 
with him, dragging him down, as he says, about thirty feet 
deep. He struggled and fought with the ravenous monster, 
fearfully lacerating his right arm in the effort. He finally 
succeeded in grasping the shark by the head, and by goug- 
ing one of his eyes, at the same time dealing him powerful 
blows about the head, he succeeded in wresting himself 
free. He then swam to the schooner, pursued by the mon- 
ster ; but, being a man of remarkable physical strength and 
pluck, he finally succeeded in driving him off, and got on 
board of the schooner, pulling himself up by the fore-topsail 
clue-line, which hung overboard, but not until the terrible 
teeth had left their mark in many a ghastly wound on his 
abdomen, groins, thigh, and leg, so that he was one mass of 
gore. The mate and one of the crew took him in the yawl- 
boat and rowed to the shore, landing at Bokum, whence he 
was conveyed in a wagon to the residence of Dr. Skinner, 
who, with Doctors Bryant and Kendall, sewed up and 
dressed his wounds, the operation lasting nearly an hour, 
during which time he was kept under the influence of 
chloroform. There were some thirty-four distinct wounds 
on his person. The abdomen and groin of the right side 
were fearfully mangled, the flesh being torn off and left 
hanging by the skin only, nothing but the thin lining mem- 
brane of the abdomen preventing the entrails from gushing 
out ; the femoral vessels were laid bare and the nerves com- 
pletely exposed. On the left side of the abdomen was an- 
other wound, similar in character but less extensive. The 
right thigh was very badly torn and gashed. Nothing but 
his indomitable courage and physical vigor enabled him to 
escape alive. The case attracts attention because of the 
fact that the shark must have been of the species known as 
'man-eater,' which are common in low latitudes, but are 
rarely seen in shoal water. The common shovel-nose shark 



236 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 






of our waters seldom, if ever, attack mankind. Johnson is 
still living, and, although in a very precarious situation, 
there is yet some hope of his ultimate recovery." 



FISH — SMALL AND ABUNDANT. 

Brook trout, or speckled trout.— This beautiful 
and excellent fish (as it is generally 
considered) is usually found quite 
small in our markets. The best are 
taken from the clear, running 
streams, — the head and back being 
mottled with a brownish-green and 
yellow ; the sides of a bluish-gray, 
covered with large yellow and crim- 
son spots; and the belly of a sil- 
very white. The mouth has a black 
appearance inside. They are some- 
times found differently marked, 
being much darker, with more red 
and gold colors, etc. ; but, as I have 
before mentioned, the cause is in 
the different sexes, ages, waters, 
and food. Their flesh is somewhat 
the color of salmon, but lighter, and 
nearly of an orange-color; and as 
for its table qualifications, although 
I have placed this fish at the head 
of this list, yet I cannot agree with 
a great many epicures as to the 
superiority of its flesh : for the pot, 
pan, or gridiron, and plainly cooked, 
there are many small fish which 
I prefer before this usually dry- 
fleshed fish; but when rashers of 
fat pork, etc., are cooked with it, 




Brook Trout. 



mm. 237 

then the flesh will bear the weight of their testimony in 
favor of it. The correct way, however, of testing the quali- 
ties of a fish, is simply to plain boil it, without sauces or 
any thing else to make it better or worse. 

Brook- trout are found in our markets from half a pound 
to four pounds weight, in their season, which appears to be 
from March (rather better in April) until August. A law 
was passed early in the year 1817, against the sale of this 
fish from the first day of October to the fifteenth day of 
March, in any year ; nor at any time, weighing less than 
half a pound. 

Among the largest specimens of this fine fish, the Easton 
Sentinel, of 18 — , notices : 

"Mammoth Tkout. — General Cadwallader and lady, of 
Philadelphia, being on a visit to Bethel, Pa., Mr. G. H. 
Goundie presented to Mr. Zeigler, of the Eagle Hotel, one 
of the largest brook-trout perhaps ever known in this coun- 
try, which was served up in his best style at a dinner last 
Monday to the general and lady, and a party of ladies and 
gentlemen of Bethlehem, Pa. The trout measured twenty- 
two inches in length, nineteen inches in circumference, and 
weighed seven and one-eighth pounds. It was raised by 
Mr. Jacob Schnieder, of the Leigh-water Gap, who had kept 
it for the last six years in a trough in the second story of 
his house." 

Then the Daily Times, May 17, 1855, says : " Among the 
attractions of Messrs. Tiffany, Ellis & Co., at their store in 
Broadway, yesterday, were three enormous brook-trout, of 
surpassing beauty. The largest weighed five pounds ; they 
were taken by Mr. J. B. Young, in Killingly, Conn." 

The same paper, October 17, 1863, shows " a big thing 
on ice." " The most superb specimens of brook-trout that 
we have ever seen have been brought to this city by Mr. G. 
S. Page, of the firm of George S. Page & Brother, Maiden 
Lane. They were caught by Mr. Page, in the early part of 
this week, somewhere north of New York City, about one 
Jaundred and fifty miles off. The heaviest of the fish, a huge, 



238 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

fat, plump, glorious fellow, of firm flesh and unequalled 
complexion, weighed eight and three-quarters pounds ; the 
next largest weighed eight and one-quarter pounds ; the 
next, seven and a quarter pounds ; and several of them were 
five and six pounds a piece. Altogether, fifty-one large 
trout, weighing two hundred and seventy-three pounds, 
were taken from a small brook, in eight days' fishing, by 
two gentlemen — Mr. Page and Mr. Henry O. Stanley." A 
still larger fish is noticed in the Tribune, February 29, 1856, 
which stated that " Genin, the hatter, had in his possession 
a speckled (lake) trout, twenty-six inches in length, and 
weighing twelve pounds, that was caught in Lake O'Claire, 
a hundred miles northeast of Montreal, by Mr. W. Parker." 
The same paper again, July 14, 1864, says: "Mr. West, 
president of the Fishermen's Club and proprietor of the 
Franklin House, Tarrytown, was in the city yesterday. He 
brought with him the six-pound brook-trout, caught by Mr. 
E. E. Wunder, of No. 167 Bleecker-street. The fish has been 
kept in a spring, at Mr. "West's house, for some time, and 
is in as healthy condition as any admirer of Isaac Walton 
could wish. The trout was formally presented to Mr. Wun- 
der by James Drumgold, secretary of the club." 

A curious incident is found in the Commercial Advertiser, 
July 12, 1816, taken from the Boston News, July 5th, and 
headed "Fishing extraordinary.— As a gentleman was an- 
gling last Thursday, in the mill-dam, Westchester, he acci- 
dentally threw his line across a strong white duck, which 
suddenly turned round, twisted the gut about her own neck, 
and fixed the hook of the dropper fly in her own breast. 
Thus entangled and hooked, she soon broke off the gut 
above the dropper, and sailed down the stream with the end 
fly trailing behind her. She had not proceeded far before 
a trout, apparently about one and one-half pound weight, 
took the fly effectually. Then commenced a struggle the 
most extraordinary that ever was witnessed— a duck at the 
dropper and a large trout at the end of the fly ! Whenever 
the trout exerted itself the terrors of the duck were very 



fish. 239 

conspicuous — it fluttered its wings and dragged the fish. 
In case of no violent struggle on the part of the trout, the 
duck evidently gave way, and suffered herself at last to be 
drawn under some bushes, where the shortness of the gut 
did not allow the trout to shelter himself in his retreat, and 
the duck to remain on the surface at the same time. The 
duck's head was repeatedly drawn under water. By chance, 
however, the gut got across a branch, which hung down- 
wards in the water, and the duck, taking advantage of the 
purchase which this gave her, dragged her opponent from 
his hole and compelled him to show his head above water. 
Then it became a contest of life or death — the trout was in 
the last agonies, and the duck evidently in a very weak 
state — when the gut gave way and suffered them to part, 
each his own way." 

King-ilsh (called barb along the Jersey shore, and 
whiting 1 on the coast of Florida, Carolina, etc.) This very 
fine, small, solid-fleshed, and highly-esteemed fish is es- 
pecially adapted for the frying-pan. In former years they 
were quite abundant, but of late they sometimes pass many 
seasons before showing themselves, not being considered a 
regular or yearly visitor. The color on the back and sides 
is of a dark bluish-gray, with silvery reflexions and clouds 
of a darker hue running obliquely across or forward from 
the back, and a white, silvery belly. Their usual weight 
is about three-quarters of a pound, and seldom above two 
pounds. The largest fish of this species I ever saw weighed 
two and three-quarter pounds, in the month of May, 1865. 
In season from May to September. 

§melt • — This pretty, little, and almost transparent fish, is 
considered one of the very best " pan-fish," if the small size 
was not against it, which causes it to be somewhat trouble- 
some to prepare. The back is of a pale olive-green, with 
silvery sides, and a satin-like band extending its whole 
length. Weight from two to four ounces, and in season 
from October to April. When fresh (or green, as the fisher- 
men term all fish which are not frozen or stale) they have a 



240 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

smell much like that of cucumbers ; and when stale they 
lose this pleasant odor, and also their usual flavor. 

Sea-perch or ruddy-bass. — This fish is the common 
sea or river perch, which is found so plentiful when in sea- 
son. The color, however, is sometimes found quite differ- 
ent when taken from different waters, but all are excellent 
eating. Its usual color is of an olive-brown tinge, and a 
golden hue when fresh out of water ; the sides are of a yel- 
lowish white and with reddish fins. The largest and best 
are brought from " Old Town Bay," where they are taken 
above four pounds weight. In season from November to 
May, and scattering along until July. Usual weight about 
half a pound. 

Frost-fish or tom-cod. — This is a scaleless but a del- 
icate and savory pan-fish of the cod species, and of a small 
size. Its color varies much in the different seasons, from a 
rich orange to a light green yellow, shaded by a dark brown 
on the back. Common weight from a quarter to half a 
pound. In season from September to April. 

Silver eel. — This is considered the finest of the eel 
species, and the color, even " skinned," has something the 
appearance of silver. Old fishermen say they do not stay 
in the harbor and bury themselves in the mud as the com- 
mon eels do, but in the month of November they appear in 
thousands leaving for the " deep sea," and what is most sin- 
gular, those of a size leave together, when they are often 
taken in nets, all of a size. They also say that in spearing 
for eels through the ice, seldom or never are silver eels 
taken. In season from April to November. In the fall of 
1861, the Messrs. Miller, of Fulton Market, had two skinned 
of nearly seven pounds' weight. The skins were tanned and 
made into two pocket-books (by Geo. Evans & Son, No. 1 
Jacob-street) of a very flexible and durable character. 

Common eel. — They are a very sweet and savory fish, 
and always in our markets in plenty. Those taken from the 
seashore are preferred, as they are generally in the best 
condition. An old fisherman told me that he one day 






FISH. 241 

caught several eels at the foot of Fifteenth-street, North 
Biver, which he took home and had cooked, but in conse- 
quence of a disagreeable taste he could not eat them. He 
supposed the gas-works or refuse from that place cast into 
the river had affected them, as he found the taste much as 
the gas-tar smelled. A curious-looking eel was sent to me, 
and on laying it alongside of a common eel of the same 
weight (two pounds three ounces), I found it three and one- 
half inches longer, a slimmer and a more pointed head, the 
color on the back of a dark bluish-black, underneath of a 
grayish brown, and the whole body was covered with short, 
black, distinct bars, about one-eighth of an inch long, but 
shorter near the head. These bars were irregularly laid, 
with three or four in line, or side by side, then across the 
ends, and so continued throughout. 

The serpentine appearance of the eel is not in its favor, 
and no doubt somewhat injures their sale ; but they are as 
good eating as they are ill-looking, and what is most in their 
favor is that they are always found " skinned" when for sale 
on the stands. Usual weight from a half to two pounds, al- 
though at times they run much larger. A few years ago 
Rogers & Co., of Fulton Market, had a box of large eels 
which weighed from eight to twelve pounds each, and 
skinned at that. The following notices are of larger ones. 
The American Register, Philadelphia, 1807, says : " On Sat- 
urday last an eel of the following surprising dimensions was 
caught by Captain Howland, between the bridges on the 
Schuylkill, viz. : length five feet two inches, girth thirteen 
inches, width twelve inches, and weighing twelve and one- 
half pounds." Dr. Smith, in his work on " Fish," says : 
" The largest eel on record was caught in a bay of Long 
Island, and weighed sixteen and a half pounds." If the 
doctor had looked in the New York Gazette, January 15th, 
1727-8, he would have found the following heavy eel story : 
" They write from Shire-Drain, in Lincolnshire, that on the 
16th of last month an eel was caught there by one Wm. 
Townshend, which was seven feet four inches in length, two 

11 



242 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

feet six inches thick ; the fat taken out of it weighed sixteen 
pounds and a half ; the ears were eight inches long ; the 
water taken out of its bladder was three quarts and a pint ; 
the weight of the creature was sixty-five pounds." 

Eel -skins are found dried for sale in some of our mar- 
kets, but usually at the Fulton. They are used for various 
purposes. 

Carp. — This beautiful and excellent fish has for several 
years past been found in our markets. It is not a native of 
these waters, but having been introduced here, it has made 
its way into the North Eiver, where many have been taken 
for several years past and brought to our markets. Their 
general color on the back is a golden olive-brown, head 
darker, belly yellowish white, fins dark brown, and a small 
mouth. They look somewhat like the sucker, with a scale 
like the mullet. Their growth is slow. They usually weigh 
from one-half to three pounds, and occasionally above 
twelve pounds, but average about one pound. In season 
from October to April. 

Lafayette fish, sea-chub, spot, goody, or 
river porgee. — These are a sweet and good little pan- 
fish, rather a rare visitor, but some years they appear quite 
abundant. The year that Lafayette visited America (1824) 
this fish was very numerous ; and, at that time, by general 
consent, it received this new name, as it was thought by 
many to be a new fish. Color of a grayish-white, with many 
dark-colored bars running obliquely forward, and pale yel- 
low fins ; in season from July to October, when it visits our 
harbors. Its usual weight is from a quarter to half a pound. 

Big porgee, or porgy, scnp, scapang.— This is 
a well-flavored fish, although a little dry, and would be 
more valued if it was less plentiful. They are pretty well 
known without description, as they are taken in great num- 
bers on the " banks," in the many excursions throughout 
the summer months, by many of our citizens. Thousands 
are also taken on the Eastern coast, which are generally 
poorer, smaller, and darker colored. In the month of April 



eish. 243 

a few of a very large size are occasionally taken, which are 
found very fine. Their general season begins in May and 
lasts until December — usually found best in the fall months. 
Weight from a half-pound to two pounds — the average less 
than one pound. 

In relation to the large numbers of this and other fish 
taken sometimes, I extract the following from a letter of T. 
Y. Tuthill, dated 1849. He says: "My farm lies on the 
east end of Long Island, in the town of South old, Suffolk 
County. It is bounded on the south by a small bay, where 
there is an abundance of seaweed, fish, eels, clams, etc. 
There were taken in this bay, in a few days, last season, nearly 
one hundred thousand porgies, which were sent to New York, 
and brought over one thousand dollars. There have been 
taken in our harbor, in the months of May and June, over 
eight millions of white-fish (which we use mostly for manure), 
in shoals of one hundred to forty thousand at a draught. 
Our lines are from one hundred and fifty to two hundred 
and fifty rods long. They are drawn by horses around a 
capstan." 

Spring mackerel, or common mackerel. — This 
is one of the most beautiful of all fish, being of a round, 
tapering form, back marked with blue and green, and white 
under. Its appearance, however, is pretty well known, as 
well as its quality, to all housekeepers, fresh, salted, or 
smoked. It is never found alive on the stands, and seldom 
found a fat fish fresh ; or rather, there are seldom any found 
among those brought fresh to our markets that would rank 
No. 1 salted. They appear smaller, and seldom weigh 
above one pound. Many fishermen say that it is the same 
fish that is taken to the " Eastward," and salted in such vast 
numbers; and, no doubt, when they arrive here on our 
coast, after having a long and wearisome passage, as they 
are sometimes met at sea in immense shoals, extending along 
the sea as far as the J eye can reach, followed, worried, and 
destroyed by hundreds of dolphins, and other large fish, is 
the cause of their being in such poor condition when found 



244 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

on the fish- stands ; but they soon regain their fatness in our 
waters, and before the large numbers are taken on the coast 
of Massachusetts, etc., for barrelling, they are in a better 
condition. They are not, however, t;he No. 1 fish of forty 
years ago, when we often found them large and fat enough 
to weigh from one and a quarter to two pounds, and salted 
at that. The present No. 1 fish would then rank about No. 
3, which were then seldom wanted. The fine large fish have 
been either driven away, and sought new feeding-grounds, 
or they have ceased to be plentiful as in former years — per- 
haps in consequence of the great numbers annually taken, 
which has gradually diminished the old large fish, and left 
the small young fish behind. Those mackerel which are 
brought to our markets fresh, are principally taken off the 
" Hook," and brought alive in fish-wells, but soon die after 
having been taken out. In season about the first of May, 
and found scattering along nearly the whole summer. 

A very large catch of mackerel, and other fish, is noticed 
in the New York Mercury, July 15, 1754 : " Last Wednesday 
fortnight, there was taken, off Cape Henry, the largest 
draught of fish ever known in this part of the world. After 
several pilot-boats, etc., were loaded with them, there re- 
mained on the beach not less than tiventy ivagon-loads, among 
which were vast quantities of very fine large mackerel." 

Thimble-eyed mackerel, ctmb-mackerel, or 
fall mackerel. — These fish are found smaller than the 
preceding, and with very large eyes. There is not much 
doubt but they are the young of the " spring mackerel." 
My parents told me that, in the fall of 1813, provisions were 
scarce and high, but, providentially, large schools of these 
small mackerel came into our harbors, and filled all the 
small rivers, creeks, inlets, when cart-loads were taken and 
sold very cheap, which tended to relieve the wants of many 
of the poor inhabitants, in that season of scarcity and want. 
When found in our markets they are usually strung to- 
gether, but are not much thought of for the table. In season 
from September to November. 



fish. 245 

Berg- all, blue perch, Conner, choqset. — There 
are two varieties of this little fish (blue, or common, and 
spotted), both much the appearance of the black-fish, but 
lighter colored, one of quite a bluish cast, the other quite 
spotted. A very fair pan-fish, but, by taking the skin off 
(Boston fashion), the flesh appears very white, and is deli- 
cate eating. Average weight not over six ounces ; in season 
from June to November. 

Winf er flounder, or ]\ew York flat-fish. — This 
small species of the flat-fish is usually known as the " win- 
ter-flounder. The color is of a pale, dirty green, with dark- 
ish clouded spots, and white beneath. The mouth is quite 
small, with the eyes on the left side, and the gill opening 
on the right. In season from October to July ; weight from 
six, to ten ounces, and an excellent pan-fish. 

Sand flounder, or pigmy flat-fish, is another 
species, smaller, and not so good for the pan. The color is 
of an olive-brown on back, and underneath of a bluish- 
white ; weight from a quarter to half a pound. 

Yellow perch, yellow barred perch, — This 
little fresh-water perch is occasionally found quite plentiful 
on the fish-stands ; in fact, it is taken from almost all the 
lakes and fresh-water rivers in the United States. It differs 
from the common perch in having a rounder body, head 
smaller, and tapering towards the snout ; eyes, large ; color 
of the back, olive, with yellow sides, and lighter underneath. 
Four or more bands also run across from the back to the 
belly. I had a very large perch, weighing above two pounds, 
boiled (which was taken in one of the lakes on Long Island, 
with several others quite as large), and found the flesh firm, 
but quite dry and almost tasteless ; no doubt, it would have 
been much better fried or broiled. Found in the greatest 
plenty along in the winter months, but in season from Sep- 
tember to April. 

§and-porgee. — A smaller fish than the common porgee, 
but something of the same appearance, except that it has 
five or six dusky bars across the back. A very fair pan-fish 



246 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

of about six ounces weight. In season in the months of 
August and September. 

Mullet. — There are several varieties of these fish, among 
which the striped mullet is the most plentiful. They are 
usually a very fat fish, but for the table they are not much 
admired, having an unpleasant flavor ; the white mullet, 
however, are considered the best. The striped variety have 
large scales, color and stripes somewhat like the striped 
bass, being also a rounder and thicker fish, with a small 
blue spot on the base of the pectoral fin. They also have 
a short flat head, and a mouth which raises higher in the 
centre than on the sides when open. Usual weight is about 
a half a pound, and in season from September to May. I saw 
one in November, 1858, which weighed three and a quarter 
pounds. Mr. R. D. Brower, fishmonger, of Jefferson Market, 
informed me that in the year 1841, while living on the coast 
of New Jersey, between Squan and Barnegat, a very heavy 
storm and high wind drove the sea over the banks, and with 
it large numbers of mullet, so as to fill all the low-lands 
and small ponds with water several feet deep. For two or 
three days thousands were taken with a common scap-net, 
before the water ran off, and with it carried off the fish. 
He says they were in excellent condition, and no doubt 
driven or forced in by the heavy sea. 

Sea-robin, banded gurnard, grunter, or pig- 
fish. — This fish is known by the above names, but usually 
as the sea-robin, among our fishermen. It is at times 
caught plentifully in nets, in the months of May, June, and 
July, with the porgee, but it is seldom used as food, as it is 
an ugly fish to handle as well as to clean, on account of the 
long bony spines about the head and gills, and also being 
without scales and quite slippery. The flesh, however, is 
good; if the head be taken off and dished up as the king- 
fish, in eating it I could hardly tell the difference. Its usual 
weight is from six to twelve ounces, but I have heard of 
their weighing twenty ounces. 

Another fish, somewhat like this fish, called 



fish. 247 

Common bull-head, or common sculpin, but 

usually not so large nor quite so plentiful, is occasionally 
found among other fish. The body and fins are usually 
found marked like a toad ; head rough and spiny, with large 
side or pectoral fins, and small ventral, but quite long. The 
flesh is good eating, but its form and color render it rather 
objectionable for the table. 

Harvest-fish— broad shiner. — This fish is also 
commonly known by many of our fishermen as butter-fish. 
The name harvest-fish is given it, no doubt, from the fact 
that they are usually caught in large numbers about that 
season. They are short, deep, and quite thin above and 
below, of a silvery color, with blue and green tints, and the 
sides marked with short creases. They also have large eyes 
and the nose quite short and blunt; weight about six 
ounces, and in season from July to October. A very fair 
pan-fish, but rather unpleasant to clean : in consequence of 
their food, and from this cause, some give them the name of 
stinkards ; the fishermen of New York, however, have called 
this fish butter-fish so many years, that it will be trouble- 
some to get rid of it. There is a little fish known as the 

American hnf ter-Jish, or spotted gunnel, about 
six inches in length, round in form, with a small head and 
eyes. The top or dorsal fin runs the whole length of the 
body and is quite short, marked with fourteen black marks ; 
the under or anal fin runs about half way to the tail, which 
is also short and rounding ; the sides are also covered with 
several dark oval marks, and the whole fish seldom weighs 
above three ounces. They are seldom found in our markets 
although often taken in our harbor, or among oyster-beds. 
A fine specimen of five and a half inches long, taken out of 
a large oyster by G. Braisted, of Jefferson Market, and pre- 
sented to me, appeared to have been caught or fastened up 
in the oyster, perhaps the day before the oyster was taken. 

Shiner, or hay shiner.—This is a beautiful little 
silvery-looking fish, being of a little darker hue above than 
below, and the fins of a yellowish tint. They are very 



248 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

delicate eating, but small and troublesome to prepare for 
that operation. I have often caught them around the 
harbor of New York, with other kinds at the same time. I 
have also taken another kind, called 

New York shiner, or fresh-water shiner, from 
some of the fresh-water streams, much like the preceding, 
but not so delicate eating. They are, however, seldom found 
in our markets, in consequence of not being salable. 

Common sucker. — This is a square, thick-backed, 
and round-bodied fish of a dusky greenish cast, whitish 
belly, and a small puckered mouth under, as if it lived 
altogether by suction. It is found in running (fresh water) 
streams, lying on or near the bottom quite still, where I 
have often taken them with a noose-snare made of long 
horse-hair on the end of a long pole. It is quite a fair pan- 
fish, but of a groundy taste. In season from October 
through the winter months. Average weight less than a 
pound. I saw one at the Fulton Market, October, 1855, 
which weighed three and a half pounds, and have read of 
them weighing five. 

Cat-fish, or common cat fish, horned pout, 
minister! — This is a common fresh-water fish, found in 
our markets in the months from February to May, then 
again in October and November ; usually of a dusky brown 
color above, mottled sides, and a dirty white beneath ; with- 
out scales and quite slimy, and with several barbels or 
fleshy whiskers about the mouth, which gives it somewhat 
the appearance of a cat's nose. Their color, however, 
varies much when taken from different waters ; as well as, 
some have larger heads in proportion, being broader, 
longer, and quite thorny, which some persons give the 
names of bull-heads, bull-pouts, brown cat-fish, and when 
found of a very dark or black color, they call them black 
cat-fish. They are all unfit for the table without being 
skinned, which adds much to their qualities as a good pan- 
fish. Perhaps the fish-women of Baltimore understand 
taking off their jackets (skins) better than any others in the 



msh. 249 

trade in the various large cities, with a woollen glove on the 
left hand, and a knife followed with a pair of nippers in 
the right ; the fish are seized in the left hand, and quickly 
the skins fly one way while the flesh goes another, and the 
fish is ready for the pan or pot before the deed could be 
recorded. Large numbers are also sold in Philadelphia, 
where they tie them up by the tail in bunches of four or six, 
and sell them for a tip or a levee according to the size ; the 
smallest fish are, however, the best. 

An old black fellow, fishing in the Delaware, near Point- 
no-Point, several years ago, was seen to haul up several 
fine rock (streaked bass) fish, which he had no sooner dis- 
engaged from his hook than he threw into the water again. 
When asked the reason of this strange proceeding, he drew 
himself up, and with a countenance in which it was impos- 
sible to say whether haughtiness or indignation predomi- 
nated, replied : " Ven I fishes for catty (meaning cat-fish) 
I'll ketch catty, and have nothing to do wid dese ere feller 
till I want him." 

Common herring. — This is the smallest of the her- 
ring species, and known by many as the herring of com- 
merce, as the greatest numbers caught are cured as salted 
herring, or smoked herring, and thus sent abroad ; but I 
think they are not now so plentiful as they were some thirty 
years ago. They are usually brought here in the frozen or 
fresh state during the months of February, March, and 
April. Their color on the back and head is quite a dark 
blue, tinged with yellow, and lighter underneath. Usual 
weight about half a pound. Another variety is called the 

Spring-herring or American alewive. — These 
fish are usually found much larger than the preceding, and 
have much of the form of a small shad ; in fact, some fish- 
ermen call them hickory shad. Color of the back of a bluish 
green, with silvery sides that show a striped appearance, 
and large scales. They are often caught with the shad in 
the spring of the year, and sometimes found plentiful, cheap, 
and not much thought of. 



250 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

In the news from Havre-de-Grace, Maryland, April 30, 
1818, is noticed : " Great Haul of Fishes.— On the 29th 
inst., it is computed that the almost incredible number of 
nearly two millions of herrings, besides a great number of 
shad, were taken in the vicinity of this town. We saw two 
different hauls, each of which, we are informed by those ac- 
quainted with fishing, contained three hundred thousand 
fine herrings and a considerable number of mammoth shad." 
— Commercial Advertiser, May 4, 1818. 

Sun-fish, pond-fish, or pumpkin-seed. — These 
little, plentiful, fresh-water fish are generally caught more 
for amusement than the table ; they are, however, found 
in large numbers, usually from October to April, especially 
when other fish are scarce. Their colors are beautiful, be- 
ing of a greenish olive, with red and yellow irregular spots, 
and also two large dark spots, one on each side or edge of 
the gill-covers, back of the eye. They are a short, deep fish, 
of about three or four ounces in weight ; I have, however, 
had them to weigh over half a pound. Their flesh is sweet, 
but dry and crumbling. Another variety of this fish is called 

Black-eared pond- fish, but is not so plentiful. A 
specimen presented to me November 4, 1864, weighed thir- 
teen ounces, length nine inches, depth four inches, and was a 
thicker and a little longer fish, according to the width, than 
the preceding. The scales were less variegated, but with 
fight blue irregular stripes starting from the lower jaw and 
running back on the gill-cover, and on which was a black 
ear on a line with the eye. The yellow color was not so 
brilliant as the above. As a table-fish I found its flesh much 
like the former. (Since, I have seen several much larger 
than the above.) 

Mosshonker, menhaden, panhagen, white- 
fish, foony-fish, and hard-head. — This fish enjoys 
more names than any other known. It is a species of the 
herring that is caught more plentiful than, perhaps, any 
other kind of fish. The flesh is sweet, but so full of bones 
as to be almost rejected as food, and of course seldom found 



FISH. 251 

in our markets, except the " Catherine," in New York, on a 
Sunday morning. The color of the head and back is a 
greenish bronze, with a dark spot on the shoulder just be- 
hind the top of the gill-openings, and usually about twelve 
inches in length. The head is short and blunt, with a sharp 
chin and belly, and with also a smaller scale than the herring, 
which firmly adheres to the fish. Now and then we find 
them brought in by some of the "market-women," ready 
salted and smoked, selling them under the name of herring. 
Great numbers of large fish are caught with nets off shore 
by the fishermen, and salted for their own use, in the fall of 
the year, when they are fat and fine ; in fact, some think 
they are equal to the shad when salted, and they keep quite 
as well. Benjamin Tallman writes from Portsmouth to the 
Newport News, which we find copied in the Evening Express, 
November 30, 1859, and says : " Last Friday I caught and 
saved twelve hundred and fifty barrels of menhaden fish at 
one set. It was the largest school of fish ever caught and 
saved at one time with a purse seine." Immense quantities 
are caught at the fisheries on Long Island, where they are 
a great deal used ; about fifteen thousand on an acre of 
land being sufficient for any crop, and the price ranging 
from fifty to seventy-five cents a thousand. 

Toad-fish, Madder-fisEa, or puffer. Although 
this is an unsightly fish, yet its flesh (what there is of it) 
is good and well-flavored ; but it should be skinned, like an 
eel, when its flesh appears white and much like that fish in 
taste. Thousands are caught and thrown away on account 
of their uninviting appearance, and of course it is never 
found on sale. 

LAKGE AND SCAEOE. 

Salmon -trout or sea-trout • — This excellent fish 
much resembles the salmon in appearance and edible quali- 
ties ; but when placed side by side with the salmon, its back 
is of a darker green color, with silvery sides, lighter in the 



252 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

color of its fins, and inferior in weight and size. The head 
and mouth are also smaller. The salmon-trout is never black 
inside the mouth, like the common brook-trout, although 
many say (and no doubt it is so) the same fish changed 
somewhat in color, both externally and internally, and in 
being of a superior size and flavor, by remaining nearly the 
whole time in the salt water. The female is considered best 
for the table, and may be known by a small head and deep 
body. This is a very scarce fish in our markets, and when 
found they command a high price. Their usual weight 
ranges from three to ten pounds, although instances are no- 
ticed of their being taken larger. The Gazette of the 29th 
of June, 1821, says : " A very large salmon-trout, weighing 
thirteen pounds eight ounces, and three feet in length, and 
seventeen inches round, was caught by Mr. Samuel Carman, 
Jr., in his pond at Fire-Place, Long Island, on the 24th 
inst. The Evening Post confirms the above "by three of 
our most respectable citizens." 

Another large specimen is noticed in the Daily Times, 
April 12, 1860, " taken on the north side of Long Island, 
last week, by Mr. J. Crumby, of this city. The trout was 
twenty and one-half inches long, thirteen and one-quarter 
inches girth, and weighed four and a half pounds. The 
nearest approach to the size and weight of this fish was a 
trout of the same species, taken at Islip, L. I., in March, 
1848 (by Mr. F. Dodd, of this city), when he was regularly 
christened as the ' Henry Clay Trout.' His dimensions 
were a trifle less than the above, and his weight (after hav- 
ing bled freely) three pounds and fourteen ounces." " Both 
of the trout as above were of the kind known to some sports- 
men as ' creek-fish,' and it is unnecessary to say more than 
this to the initiated. They have constant access to fresh 
and salt water, without which the trout can never reach the 
highest state of perfection. They are the true ' game' trout 
in shape, muscle, and flavor, and cannot be equalled by any 
other kind. This is conceded by all experienced judges." 

Pompimo. — These excellent Southern fish are occasion- 



fish. 253 

ally caught on our coast, especially on the south, side of 
Long Island and in the Shrewsbury Inlet. There were some 
eight or ten in our (New York) markets in 1864, and this 
year (L865) the brothers Miller, and several other fishermen 
of Fulton Market, had several specimens in the month of 
July, which were principally eaten by the fishermen, who 
pronounced them among the choicest fish, and Mr. Samuel 
Miller thinks they are equal if not superior to the Spanish 
mackerel. The Southerners also place them above all other 
fish for the table. In form and general appearance they are 
somewhat like the harvest-fish, but longer-bodied and a 
rounder nose. The under side is also of a yellowish shade 
or color, as well also as the edge of the ventral and caudal 
fins. In size they appear various ; some have been taken 
as light as half a pound, and others, again, above ten 
pounds. I purchased one on the 18th of July, 1865, which 
weighed one pound ten ounces, from which I made a draw- 
ing, then afterwards had it fried, and I found it equal to its 
reputation given above. 

Common shad salmon, herring saBinon, or 
white-fish of the lakes, is a scarce fish in the markets 
here (New York), but, no doubt, in a few years the facilities 
will be so easy for conveying these and other rare species 
of fish from the great lakes, that they will become as well 
known to us as the lake salmon, muskellonge, etc. It is 
said the usual size and form of this fish are about those of 
the shad, but with a sharper head, having a bluish back, 
and white beneath. There is also another variety spoken 
of called the Otsego shad salmon — Otsego feass — 
which De Witt Clinton says " is nearly equal to any fish 
that swims, for exquisite and delicious food. It is among 
fishes what the grouse or canvas-back duck is among birds. 
The flesh is fine, white, and delicate. It is rarely taken with 
the hook, but has been taken by the seine to the number of 
five thousand at a draught, in the Otsego Lake, and is daily 
increasing." The color on the back is of a dusky gray, 



254 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 






striped like the striped-bass, and weighing usually about 
five or six pounds. 

Ited-l>ass 5 branded corvina, or spud. — This is 
said to be an excellent Southern saltwater fish, and is occa- 
sionally found in our markets, having been brought by the 
coasting vessels. Its form is like the king-fish, but much 
deeper, and the color on the back resembles the weak-fish ; 
the sides have a peculiar streaked look, that is, the bluish 
streaks are straight until about half-way, when they turn 
up a little, and then continue on straight to the tail. There 
is also a reddish tinge (although the two specimens pre- 
sented to me (February 9, 1865) were more of a silverish, 
metallic hue, but they had been under others, and were, 
perhaps, two weeks old) and silvery white underneath. One 
of mine had a dark, branded spot each side of the tail, and 
the other had two, besides four others, small and large, on 
each side between the centre and tail. They were not in 
the best condition for the table, although good ; but I per- 
ceived a groundy taste which was not very pleasant. What 
I saw (some fourteen) would average one and one-quarter 
pounds each. 

Lake trout, or lake salmon. — These fresh-water 
fish are among the best when taken from the fine clear- 
water lakes. I have seen them that were taken in the 
Cayuga Lake, weighing above ten pounds. The color and 
appearance of this fish (as near as I can now recollect) was 
that of a very large, fat " weak-fish," with the back covered 
with small spots, and a mouth full of sharp teeth. The flesh 
was of a yellowish-red color, very much like the salmon ; 
and, no doubt, from that fact, the name of salmon trout is 
sometimes given it. It is a good table-fish. 

In some waters the outside color of this fish is darker on 
the back and head, being of a bluish-black, with lightish 
spots, belly white and silvery. They are occasionally found 
in our markets in the months from October to March. 
Weight from four to seven pounds. 



fish. 255 

Mackinaw trout, inackinaw salmon, or na- 
maycnsh. — This species of the trout is the largest known, 
and often equals, or rather exceeds, in size the true salmon. 
It is principally taken in the Great Northern Lakes, and is 
seldom found in our markets except in the salted state. Its 
flesh is said to be superior to the common lake-trout ; but I 
do not think so, or, at least, with the specimens found in 
our New York markets, which appeared coarse and not so 
delicate. The average weight of those taken is said to be 
from twelve to sixteen pounds ; but those which I saw were 
above twenty pounds, and one over thirty pounds, and I 
have read of their being taken above one hundred pounds. 
These very large fish have the appearance of great age, if 
we should judge from their head, mouth, and teeth. They 
are also of a lighter color on the back (being quite of a 
silverish-gray) than the common lake-trout. They are 
usually found in our markets during the winter months. 

Spotted turfoot, New York plaice, watery 
flounder. — This variety of the flat-fish is usually found 
quite scarce, small in size, quite thin in flesh, or with very 
little on its bones, and quite round in appearance. It is 
known among the Jersey fishermen as the " sea-flounder" 
and " sand-flounder," and seldom sought after by them, as 
they seem to think that there is but little good eating on 
them without they are large. Their eyes are full and large, 
as also the mouth, which opens on the left side, and is 
found filled with small sharp teeth. Color on the back is 
dark olive-brown, with darker spots dotted over, which 
grow larger towards the tail, and rather a bluish-white 
underneath. Its flesh is white, delicate, and well-tasted. 
Weight from one to ten pounds, and in season from May 
to September. 

I am told by an old fisherman that he has often taken them 
with a barbed spear while going along silently with his boat 
near the shore or inlets on the Jersey coast. He could see 
them settle themselves down on the bottom, and, by a few 
motions of their fins, almost cover themselves, with sand, 



256 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

from sight ; but the practiced eye discovers their position 
by a dark spot, when he phinges the spear through them. 
" Then," says he, " if I strike a big one, his enormous 
strength would either break my pole or pull me overboard ; 
so I let them run with the pole,' which shows itself on the 
surface after a little time, when the fish is exhausted or 
dead, and I can take it in without risk ; and I have taken 
them of twelve pounds weight in this manner." 

Many persons assert that we have no turbot, or En- 
glish turbot, on our coast. Captain Mackinnon of the 
British Navy (whom, the editors of the Courier and Enquirer 
say, everybody liked, and was known to more Americans 
than most foreigners are who visit us), says, in a lecture be- 
fore the Literary Institute, at Lymington, England, " when 
he first landed here he went to the fish-markets, and found 
that there were no turbot, sole, or flat-fish. He took a trawl- 
net to Newport, Rhode Island, and, in three days, caught 
seventeen varieties of fish, and amongst them several turbot. 
They had as fine turbot there as we had, but did not catch 
them, because they only used the hook." 

The color on the back differs a little from the preceding, 
being more of a reddish-brown, and sprinkled with small 
white specks. It has also six small tubercles near the left 
eye, with a light ring around them. It, no doubt, is a finer 
fish for the table, the average being also much larger. I 
read in Pdvingtons Gazetteer, August, 1773, of "a turbot, 
weighing only eight pounds, was sold at Billingsgate (Lon- 
don), on Saturday last, for eight guineas." (Had the fish, 
says the editor, been produced for sale at the Fly Market, 
in New York, a single piastre would have secured it.) 

The Salem Register (1817) notices : "A very fine turbot, 
of about forty pounds weight, was caught in our harbor, 
and brought to town, on Wednesday night, and sold off at 
the low rate of four cents a pound. This, we are told, is 
the second that is remembered to have been brought in 
here. Another, nearly as large, was also caught near the 
same place, a few years previous." 



fish. 257 

French turbot, or Bay of Fundy flounder.— 

There is another variety of the flat-fish brought to our mar- 
kets in the late winter months, to which the fishermen have 
given the name of turbot, or French turbot, and an excellent 
fish it is. In form and color it is somewhat like the pigmy 
flat-fish, but much larger, longer, and thicker, according to 
the size. It also has a pointed head, filled full of sharp 
teeth, with the eyes on the left side. Their usual weight 
ranged from four to ten pounds. I ate of them several 
times, and found them choice fish. 

Black triple tail, triple-tail perch, or black 
grunts. — A fine specimen of this scarce fish I purchased 
in the month of August, 1864, at Catherine Market, which 
weighed just three pounds, and measured in length sixteen 
and a half inches; width of body (alone), seven and a quar- 
ter inches. It was taken in a net on the Long Island coast, 
near Flatlands. (Another fine specimen of the same weight 
was sent to me since.) The color was of a dark greenish- 
black and bronze, somewhat clouded on the sides and under- 
neath. The dorsal and anal fins extended so far behind 
as to give it an appearance, with the caudal fin, of three 
tails. There were twelve stiff dorsal spines, commencing 
from above the gill-openings, running back, three in front 
of the anal fins, and one in the ventral fins. I had the 
fish boiled, and found it excellent eating, being very much 
like the sheephead. I believe they are only found here 
in the summer months, often heavier than the above. 

Banded ephippu§, three-tailed sheephead.— 
This short, deep, sharp back and bellied fish is occasionally 
found in our markets, having been taken in the coast-nets, 
although its home is in the more southern waters. I pur- 
chased a fine specimen on the 27th July, 1864, which 
weighed just three pounds, for sixty-three cents, of a fisher- 
man. Its length, from tip of nose to end of tail, was just 
fifteen inches ; and its greatest width across, from beginning 
of the dorsal to the same part of the anal fins, was eight 
inches ; the color of a leaden-gray, with six partially indis- 

17 



258 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

tinct bands running irregulary around the body, commen- 
cing across the eye, and ending at the root of the caudal or 
tail fin. I had it boiled, and found its flesh quite equal to 
the sheephead ; but the bones were more prominent than 
that fish, or rather less flesh according to the bone. 

Siskawitz, or Northern lake trout. — This large 
variety of the trout is usually a very fat fish. It is not intro- 
duced here as a fine table-fish, when fresh, because it is too 
fat and oily ; but, as a salted fish, it is found here to be one 
of the best, and usually sold at a high price. The color on 
the back appears like a mixture of blue, brown, and green, 
lighter under, with clouds or spots over the whole body. 
They usually weigh from four to eight pounds. 

disk* — This salt-water fish is occasionally found in our 
New York markets, but more plentiful in those of Boston. 
Its color and general appearance resemble the codfish, with 
thicker shoulders and a broader head. The dorsal fin runs 
the length of the back, and the ventral fins from the vent to 
the tail, nearly of the same size, with a lancet-shaped tail ; 
and these three fins — the dorsal, ventral, and caudal — are 
all fringed with a white edge. I have eaten twice of this 
fish, from six to eight pounds, both fried and boiled, which 
I found not quite the equal of the codfish, the flesh being 
a little dry, but firm, and not quite so flaky nor sweet ; it 
had also a shade of a yellowish color through it. This fish, 
in the warm months, is of a grayish color, mottled with 
brown spots, and darker in winter ; usual weight from three 
to eight pounds — average about five pounds ; in season in 
July and August, and scattering along through the winter. 
It is a much better salted than a fresh fish. 

Bonita, or striped bonita. — This is a rather stout, 
round, and smooth fish, somewhat of the appearance of a 
mackerel, but larger and thicker, and the head pointed, with 
a wide mouth. Several stripes run along the sides from the 
gill-openings, quartering towards the tail over the back. It 
has been sometimes taken or sold for the Spanish mackerel, 
but is altogether differently shaped and marked (see Span- 



msh. . * 259 

nish mackerel). The flesh is firm and white, but not well- 
tasted. In fact, I think they are the poorest eating of the 
mackerel species. The larger fish may be better, boiled, 
than the small are, fried, as it was from the latter that I 
formed this opinion. Their season runs from June to 
October, and some years are quite plentifully brought into 
our markets. Usual weight from four to eight pounds, 
although I have heard of their weighing above fifty pounds. 
Several specimens sent to me weighed less than one pound. 
I have heard sailors call this fish " skip-jack." 

American codling:, or codling. — This fish is also, 
by some, called " hake." It appears to be a species of the 
codfish, but I think not quite its equal for the table. They 
are, however, quite scarce in the fish-markets of New York. 
The color of the back and sides is of a reddish brown, and 
under, or rather along, the edge of the sides, it is full of 
small black specks from mouth to tail ; and the belly, for- 
ward of the vent, is of a bluish-white color, while, back of 
the vent, of a dingy yellowish- white. Inside of the mouth 
is of a pearly white, but in the throat and roots of the 
tongue it is quite black. It has large, full, blue eyes, and 
under the gill-openings hang two long hairy fins, split at 
the ends, and another long dark one on the first dorsal fins ; 
the second part of the same fins runs about one length down 
to the tail, and the ventral fin from the vent to the tail. 
These fish weigh from one to twenty pounds, although those 
which were sent to me weighed from fourteen to twenty- 
eight ounces. I found the flesh much like the frost-fish, 
but with a peculiar smell when alive. In season from Sep- 
tember to December. 

Hake, American hake (it is also called " Stock- 
fish" and " Poor John's" in Massachusetts). — These fish are 
occasionally taken, as also the preceding, with the cod and 
haddock, and appear of their species, but are longer, and 
with a tapering, cylindrical body. They have large bony 
heads, with a thin skin drawn over, which gives them a 
hard-featured look ; to these are added a large mouth filled 



260 4 THE MARKET ASSISTANT?. 

with, sharp teeth, and the lower jaw a little longer than the 
upper one. The color on the back is of a reddish brown, 
and below the lateral line a dirty white. In season from 
June to September, but thej are rarely found on the New 
York fish-stands. 

A young specimen of about four ounces weight and ten 
inches in length, was sent to me November 13th, 1860. 
Afterwards I saw some twenty about the same size, some 
of which I had cooked, and found their flesh sweet and ten- 
der, but a little dry. This fish, with many other rare spe- 
cies, I made drawings of. 

White lake bass, or white hass.— This fresh- 
water fish is also known in New York city as " lake striped 
bass," no doubt from the fact that their color, and being 
also striped, has given them this name. They are quite a 
common fish at Buffalo and many other places near the 
fresh-water lakes. They have some of the appearance of 
white perch as to shape, having a small, pointed head, with 
the under jaw the longest ; and some four or five distinct 
stripes running the length of the body, and others quite in- 
distinct. I saw some at the Fulton Market in the month of 
October, when they were fat, and I found their flesh quite 
sweet, except having a little groundy taste. Usual weight 
from one-half to two pounds. Those which I ate of weighed 
one-half and one and a half pounds. The larger ones are 
found here sometimes in a salted state. 

Thick-lipped eel-pout, Menmy. — The common 
name applied to this fish by the New York fishermen is 
" Conger eel." The color of the several specimens which 
were, in my possession was a light brown, with dusky spots 
on their sides. The fins were also spotted. The head and 
mouth were large, and the lips thick and fleshy ; while the 
body had the appearance of an eel's tail. Under the jaw, 
near the base of the round pectoral fins, were two stiff spi- 
nous feelers, one and a quarter inches long, which, no doubt, 
are used to creep along the bottom when in search of shell- 
fish. I found them good eating, but a little dry ; weight 



FISH. 261 

from four to six pounds. They are generally caught in com- 
pany with the codfish, and found in our markets in February, 
March, and April. 

Conger eel, or American conger, is altogether a 
different fish from the preceding, and also a scarce one in 
our New York markets. Their color is of a dark olive- 
green on the head and back, underneath of a dirty white, 
and from three to four feet in length, with the tail ending in 
a sharp point. The lips are thick and fleshy, with seven 
small holes on a line back of the eye. Their flesh is not 
pleasant-flavored. Weight from two to six pounds, and in 
season from November to April. 

" A conger eel was taken in the river Medway, near Eom- 
ney Marsh, which measured in length seven feet six inches 
and a half, in circumference two feet nine inches and three- 
quarters, and its weight was thirty-six pounds and a half." 
— Gaz. and Post-Boy, Feb. 5, 1761. 

Groper, or red groper. — This is an inhabitant of the 
Southern waters, and a scarce fish in our markets, but 
sometimes brought to us in the months of April and May 
by the fishing-vessels. The shape and size is much that of 
the sea-bass — not quite equal for the table — of a light pink- 
ish-red, with large eyes. I saw several specimens in the 
Washington Market on the 7th February, 1857, which, it 
was said, were taken on our coast. Their appearance 
showed that they had been taken in very deep water, the 
eyes having a swelled appearance, almost to bursting, caused 
by having been suddenly drawn from the pressure of " the 
deep, deep sea." Since writing the above, I was presented 
with a specimen of a very light pinkish color, weighing just 
one and three-quarter pounds (January 2, 1865). A French 
gentleman saw it on my stand, and said it was a common 
fish in France, known by the name of " rouget." For the 
table, I found it no better than described above. Another 
fish from the Northern waters, much like this fish, called 

Northern sehastes, red sea-perch, rose-fish, 
and snapper, is found here. Many years ago I saw some 



262 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

six of these fish in the Washington Market, which one of the 
fishermen called " rose-fish," about the size of a two-pound 
perch. Their color was of a carmine red over the whole 
fish — perhaps a little lighter beneath — and a dark spot on 
each side of the head. They were said to be equal to the 
sea-bass. 

Ling*. — This fish is taken in company with the cod, and 
is considered inferior to that fish for the table. I find from 
experience that the flesh is darker, not solid, and of an in- 
sipid, sweet taste. No doubt if it could be bled (as it ap- 
pears full of blood) in the tail, and hung up until, if possi- 
ble, frozen stiff, it would be better flavored. Color of an 
olive-brown, with dark spots on the back and fins. The 
back fins extend from the head almost to the tail ; on the 
under side the fin extends from the tail three parts of the 
way towards the head. Weight about six pounds, and in 
season from November to March, but not plenty, or only 
occasionally so. 

The London News, April 4, 1754, notices—" A lusty Fin- 
gallon in Pill Lane eat, for a wager of four guineas, twelve 
pounds of lyng, six pounds of bread, three pottles of pota- 
toes, and afterwards drank very comfortable two pottles 
of ale." 

Pollack, or New York pollack, — This fish is an- 
other of the cod family, but considered inferior as a table- 
fish. There appear occasionally in our markets two vari- 
eties. Thus, one is of a dark olive-green color on the back, 
and lighter beneath, while the other is generally known as 
the " black pollack" or " coal-fish," having a blackish-green 
back with a silvery lateral line through its length. The 
fins of both varieties are much in form and place as those of 
the haddock; the head, however, is smooth and more 
pointed. The average weight is about five to seven pounds. 
I saw one of about five and a half pounds' weight in the 
month of July, 1864, at Catherine Market. On dressing it, 
the flesh was softer and much darker than the cod ; but the 
fisherman said that many preferred them to that fish, and 



fish. 263 

that lie sold them at higher prices when he could obtain 
them. I, however, should decide in favor of the cod. They 
are seldom very plentiful, but when found, it is generally in 
the fall and winter months. In the month of November 
they were very plentiful in New York, and sold at low 
prices. 

A very small fish, similar to the New York pollack both 
as to color and location of fins, was sent to me, which was 
found in a lot of smelts. Its length eight and three-quarter 
inches, depth two and a quarter inches, and weighed six 
ounces. The spines in the fins were very indistinct, being 
both delicate and fleshy. I counted in the first dorsal 
twelve ; second, twenty ; third, seventeen ; the first anal 
twenty-five, second nineteen spines, some of which were so 
small, that perhaps they were not all counted in. I think 
it was the young of the New York pollack. I made a 
sketch for future reference. It proved delicate eating. 

Drum. — There appears to be not less than two varieties 
of this fish occasionally found in our markets, one of which 
is known as the " red drum," and the other the " black" or 
" brown drum." They are a short, deep fish, with a high 
round back, covered with large, stiff scales. Their usual 
weight is from five to twenty pounds, and in season from 
July to October. They are not prized as food, the flesh 
being coarse and not well flavored, although a young drum, 
especially the red drum, is pretty good. Two slices of a 
large (lightish) red drum, which weighed twenty-three 
pounds, I had fried, and found it rather dry and insipid ; 
much like poor (large) halibut. These were cut off an ex- 
cellent specimen, May 9, 1864, brought from the South. 

There was a tradition that there were but ten species of 
fish known to the Dutch when they discovered America, and 
that when they caught the shad they named it elft (eleventh), 
the bass twalft (twelfth), and the drum dertienen (thirteenth). 

Yery large fish, and great numbers too, are sometimes 
taken of this fish at one haul. The American Telegraphe, 
August 8, 1795, notices one at Providence, Bhode Island, 



264 THE MARKET ASSISTANT.' 

thus : " On Monday last, John Earle and sons caught with 
a seine, at one draught, in Bristol Ferry, seven hundred and 
nineteen drum-fish, weighing upwards of fifty pounds each." 
Mies' Weekly Register, July 1833, also says : " Some days 
ago, a haul was made in Great Egg Harbor Bay, near Bears- 
ley's Point, Cape May, at which two hundred and eighteen 
drum-fish were caught, their entire weight being from eight 
thousand to nine thousand pounds. This is said to be the 
largest haul of that description of fish ever made in that 
bay." Another still larger, noticed as " A Great Haul of 
Drum-Fish. — On Wednesday, June 5, 1804," says the post- 
master of Oyster Ponds, Long Island, " one seine drew on 
shore at this place, at a single haul, twelve thousand two 
hundred and fifty fish, the average weight of which was 
found to be thirty-three pounds, making in the aggregate 
two hundred and two tons two hundred and fifty pounds. 
This is undoubtedly the greatest haul of the kind ever 
known in this country. A hundred witnesses are ready to 
attest the truth of the above statement. They are used 
for manure." 

A curious circumstance is noticed in the Easlon (Md.) 
Star, in the month of October, 1815 : " Three men from 
Kent Island were lately fishing for drum, off Love Point, in 
about twenty-five feet water, and having been there a con- 
siderable time without success, a tlength (Haycock) one of 
the party felt something move his line, and upon drawing it 
in, found he had brought up a large earthen jug, and his 
hook with the bait within it, which, being unable to extri- 
cate, he broke the jug in pieces, when, to his utter surprise 
and astonishment, he discovered a large catfish, fourteen 
inches in length, which had been enveloped in the jug, and 
swallowed his hook with the bait. It is supposed the jug was 
lost from some vessel, and having settled at the bottom in a 
perpendicular situation, the fish entered it, and not being 
able to find its way out, continued there till grown too large 
to get out at the mouth, and the bait having accidentally 
fallen into it, was seized with avidity by the fish. The jug 



FISH. 265 

must have been a long time at the bottom, as there was very 
long grass and several large oysters adhering to it. Easton, 
Md., June 20. Attested to by Thomas Goodhand, High 
Legg, and Solomon Haycock." 

Banded drum or grunts. — This fish (when found 
here) has much of the appearance of the preceding, but 
usually smaller in size. The color of the back is of a dusky 
brown, sides and underneath lighter, with four dark or black 
bands around the body. It is sometimes taken with the 
weak-fish in nets, and makes more noise than that fish when 
taken from the water, which no doubt is the cause of its 
being known by the name of grunts. It is said the small 
fish are equal to the porgee for the table, but the flesh is 
somewhat coarser. In season from June to October, and 
weight irom two to ten pounds, although one was sent to 
me less than a half pound. 

Fresh-water eusk. — One of these fish was presented 
to me on Christmas morning, 1860, which weighed just one 
and one-half pounds, measured seventeen and one-half 
inches in length, and seven and one-half inches around the 
shoulders. The color of a brownish green on the sides and 
back, and underneath of a yellowish white, covered over 
with black blotches, irregularly. It also had a black spot 
on each side of the tail where it joins the fin, with a yellow- 
ish circle around it. 

The fish was covered over with a thick mucus, more so 
than the black-fish. The mouth full of small, sharp teeth, 
on the upper jaw they extended back on the roof of the 
mouth ; the lips were fleshy, and the upper jaw, from about 
half way running to the corners of the mouth, appeared a 
loose or jointed part, which could drop over the corners of 
the mouth. The tongue was large and round. 

This fish being fresh I prepared its flesh to eat, but found 
it difiicult to clean, from the great quantity of mucus. I 
then skinned it, with some difficulty, fried it, when I found 
the flesh very short and tender, but sweet and well-tasted, 
somewhat like the roes or melt of a he-shad. 



266 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

3falasheganay or Mack sheep-head. — This is one 
of the lake, or fresh-water fish, shaped somewhat like the 
porgee. The color of a dark greenish gray on back, crossed 
with darkish bands, silvery sides, and yellowish underneath. 
It is said to be quite a savory fish for the table. Weight 
usually about three pounds. Another more common fish of 
the lakes, called 

JLake sheep-head, is found much larger and quite 
plentiful at Buffalo, where it is considered a poor, dry, 
tasteless fish, and seldom used for the table. 

Salt-water cat-fish. — These fish I have taken many 
years ago, but were quite small specimens. They have but 
two whiskers on the upper jaw, near the corner of their 
mouth, and also two very small ones under their chin. 
Color of a bluish black, with shades of green, lighter sides, 
and white underneath. Dr. Mitchell notices " a splendid 
fish of this species, twenty inches long, four inches deep, 
and three and one-half inches wide. Taken June 30, 1814." 
When skinned they are a very good pan-fish. 

Lake cat-fish. — These are of a much larger variety, 
and very much poorer for the table than any of the other 
kinds, without some trouble is taken in their preparation. 
They are of a muddy-brown color, with an ugly, large, round 
head, and are caught in all the Western lakes and rivers. 
I have read of some weighing above one hundred pounds, 
but they are too coarse to be eatable food ; those under ten 
pounds are, however, thought by some excellent eating, and 
many of the Western people say they are the " Pride of the 
Western waters," when properly prepared. They are gen- 
erally very fat, and of course of an oily nature, which oil is 
usually strong. The fish should be parboiled to extract the 
oil, then stuffed and roasted. Then, I am told, they are ex- 
cellent. 

The Western Spy, in 1817, notices : "A catfish was taken 
by a trout line opposite Cincinnati, Ohio, on Monday last, 
the dimensions of which, by actual measurement, were five 
feet and a half in length, four feet girth, twelve inches be- 



msh. 267 

tween the eyes, and nineteen across the breast. Weight 
one hundred and seventeen pounds ! Such was the power 
of this fish, that the man who took him was obliged to shoot 
him in order to get him ashore." Then again : "A catfish 
was caught in Peoria Lake, on Friday (May, 1840) morning 
last, by Mr. George Oakley, which weighed one hundred 
and forty-one pounds. It was five feet long, three and a 
half feet round, and twelve inches between the eyes. This 
is believed to be the largest fish ever caught here, that 
caught by Mr. Kellar, a year or two since, weighing one 
hundred and thirty-two pounds only, though it is several 
pounds less than one caught near Pekin, ten miles below 
here, about a year ago. Mr. Oakley having presented us 
with a sample of this, we are able to pronounce the quality 
excellent, and in no respect inferior to those of smaller size." 
— Hazard's U. S. Register, vol. ii., page 304. 

The Chronicle Express (January 17, 1804) notices an Ohio 
catfish " was brought from the Ohio for the purpose of being 
presented to the largest and heaviest landlord in the city 
(Philadelphia). Mr. George Brown, sign of the "Falstaff," 
being the fortunate landlord — lie weighed one hundred and 
eighty and one-half pounds more than any that could be 
found — he received the fish and regaled forty guests with 
the same. "Weight of the fish thirty-nine and one-half 
pounds gutted ; length three feet six inches ; across the head 
ten inches ; between the eyes eight and one-half inches ; 
mouth seven and three-quarter inches. Pro Bono — Phila- 
delphia." 

A Cincinnati paper (June, 1844) notices : a monster " Cat- 
fish was caught a few days since in the mouth of the Lick- 
ing, opposite Cincinnati (Ohio), which measured nine feet 
five inches in length, nine inches between the eyes, and 
weighing four hundred and forty-seven pounds !" 

Golden mullet, mullet sucker, red horse, or 
bram. — This beautiful variety of the sucking species is 
also known by Richardson as the Gilt Sucking Carp. A 
very fine specimen of this beautiful fresh-water fish, 



268 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

weighing just two pounds, was sent to me in 1861. The 
color was beautifully variegated with yellow, green, red, 
etc., and the fins quite red. Its shape differs from the com- 
mon sucker, the body being much deeper, with a smaller 
head in proportion, and the scales much larger. The flesh 
was sweet, but a little dry and quite full of small bones. It 
is not much admired as a table-fish. The season is in the 
winter and spring months. They are sometimes quite plen- 
tiful. 

8ea eel. — This large eel, I am told by the fishermen, is 
occasionally found in the market, but as they are not much 
esteemed for the table, are seldom found on their stands. 
Their color is quite brown on the back, and underneath a 
smutty white. 

In the London News, January 27, 1764, is found the fol- 
lowing : " A salt-water eel, seven feet long, twenty-three 
inches round, and weighing thirty-six pounds, which had 
been taken in the shallows near Sheerness, was brought to 
Billingsgate, and thought to be the largest of the kind 
which has appeared at that market for some years. It 
was bought by a fishmonger in Westminster." — N. Y. 
Gazette, April 16. 

' Tunny, horse-mackerel. — This extraordinary large 
fish is one of the mackerel species, and has much the form 
of the common mackerel. The color of the back is of a 
grayish-black, sides bright and silvery, and underneath 
nearly white. Inside of the mouth is quite black. Like all 
the very large fish, such as the halibut, sword-fish, sturgeon, 
etc., when found in the markets it is cut in pieces. The 
flesh is considered good, and some say superior to the sword- 
fish. Dr. Timothy D wight, in his " Travels," says of this 
fish : " The horse-mackerel formerly frequented this coast 
in immense numbers, and, in the season, were constantly to 
be found in the markets (Newport). But about the close of 
the Eevolutionary War they forsook our waters, and have 
not made their appearance since. They were estimated a 
great delicacy, and are the largest of the mackerel species." 



fish. 269 

Storer also notices one taken near Cape Ann, fifteen feet in 
length, and weighing about one thousand pounds. " After 
preparing two barrels of the fish for Boston and New York, 
the remainder was sold in our markets (Boston), and many 
of our citizens were enabled to feast themselves on its most 
delicate meat, resembling much in appearance lean pork, 
and the best of mackerel in taste." 

The Gazette of the U. S., May 24, 1798, says : " A horse- 
mackerel was lately caught at Provincetown, Cape Cod, 
which weighed from eight to nine hundred weight. He got 
entangled in the eel-grass, where the tide left him, and was 
drawn out with a boat-hook. A large number of the inhab- 
itants were fed from it for several days, sending their chil- 
dren to cut pieces as it lay on the beach. From the caul 
and remnants of the carcass twenty-eight gallons of oil were 
obtained." In 1805 a tunny, or a fish of this kind, was 
stranded at Cat Cove. Its measurement was nine feet and 
five inches long, weighing nine hundred and twenty-five 
pounds." 

This fish, or many of them, were, no doubt, the cause of 
a great excitement about the years 1815 to 1818, on the 
eastern coast, and some quite near the Boston harbor. 
Every month or two during that period, reports and affi- 
davits were presented to the public of having seen, been 
chased, or hairbreadth escapes from a — or several — sea- 
serpents, which were represented as being one hundred or 
more feet in length, with a body as large as a barrel and a 
head larger than a horse's. In fact, all sorts of descriptions 
were given of it, or them. The excitement about it induced a 
Captain Rich to fit out a vessel with all sorts of instruments 
for its capture ; and this he accomplished, as appears from 
a letter found in the Boston News, dated September 4, 1818. 
(See Commercial Advertiser, September 7, 1818.) 

" Last night a messenger arrived in town with news that 
the sea-serpent had been captured. The town, as you may 
well suppose, was all in a bustle. This morning a schooner 
arrived with a fish on board, said to be the monster. Ex- 



270 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

pectation was still on tip-toe — people flocking to the wharves 
— and every mouth filled with the cry of the sea-serpent is 
taken. About twelve o'clock he was publicly exhibited at 
twenty-five cents per sight — and lo ! he was nothing more 
nor less than an albicore, or what is more commonly called 
a horse-mackerel, measuring nine feet in length, and four 
or five feet in circumference. It is the opinion of Captain 
Eich, who sailed in quest of the sea-monster, and who took 
this fish, that he is the identical one that has long terrified 
the credulous Bostonians." 

"The fish caught," says another account, "is of the 
mackerel species, and is the thurry, or horse-mackerel." 
Another account says : " The fish now exhibiting has been 
well known from the earliest ages. It is the tunny 
fish, of the mackerel genus. It is sometimes entitled 
the great mackerel, and by seamen generally called the 
albicore." 

In 1846 one of these fish was found stranded on the flats 
near the Beverly Bridge, so says the Salem Gazette, where 
it is known as the horse-mackerel, or albicore. " Its entire 
length was nine feet six inches ; girth near the pectorals, 
seven feet ; form elongated ; color, back nearly black, sides 
silvery, beneath whitish ; scales on the back very large ; 
dorsal fins, two, the first of which is somewhat peculiar, con- 
sisting of twelve very strong rays, connected by a dark- 
colored membrane, and shutting entirely into a groove, so 
that, when unexpanded, the fin is perfectly invisible. The 
second fin resembles that of a shark, and between this and 
the tail are ten Unlets; presenting the appearance of the 
teeth of a large saw ; a similar succession of finlets exists 
between the tail and the anal fin ; tail is lunated, measur- 
ing across its extremity three feet and two inches. 

" The flesh, which somewhat resembles that of fresh meat, 
is used as an article of food in those places where the fish 
abounds." 

In the New York Daily Times, July 17, 1856, there ap- 
pears a notice of " an immense horse-mackerel captured 



FISH. 271 

on Saturday afternoon at Nahant, which measured nine feet 
in length, and weighed nearly one thousand pounds." 

Dolphin. — This beautiful-colored fish is sometimes 
brought to our markets, and when found it is not much 
thought of for the table. They are only handsome in their 
various and beautiful rainbow colorings while living ; in 
death, however, they lose these changeable colors. Their 
proportions and appearance are quite ordinary, having a 
sharp, deep head and a flat-sided body, which tapers down 
to the tail. A large dorsal fin also extends from the head, 
and runs tapering down to the strongly-forked tail. The 
flesh of a young dolphin, of some six pounds weight, I 
found flakey and white, with a taste much like the common 
crab, but rather dry eating. The large fish are strong, and 
not pleasant tasted, but perhaps passable to a hungry man. 
Professor Kalm, in his " Travels," in the year 1748, says of 
the dolphin : " They are eaten with thick butter when boiled, 
and sometimes fried, and afford a palatable food, but rather 
sometimes dry." Another species, called bottle-headed 
dolphin, I had the pleasure of seeing in Washington Mar- 
ket (August 24, 1855), of about eight pounds weight. Color 
on the back and sides was a metallic blue, and a dirty sil- 
very appearance under, covered over with small speckled 
dark spots. It had a large round head, the body tapering 
gradually to the tail, which was largely forked. The top or 
dorsal fin running from opposite the gill-openings to the 
tail, where it ends very small ; the under or anal fin running 
from the tail, and increasing in size, almost half way up the 
fish ; eyes large, and near the mouth. It was called by one 
of the fishermen of Washington Market a " truter." In the 
journal of Franklin, who writes 1726, October 6 : " We 
hooked a dolphin this morning that made us a good break- 
fast." Again he says : " Since eleven o'clock we have 
struck three fine dolphins, which are a great refreshment 
to us." The death of Major Job Sumner of the Massachu- 
setts line of the American army in 1789 (September 16), 
was occasioned from the effects of eating dolphin taken off 



272 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

Cape Hatteras, which was supposed to have been poisoned. 
He died in New York city, and was buried from the " City 
Tavern" (afterwards known as the " City Hotel") in St. 
Paul's Churchyard. (See Daily Advertiser, September 17, 
1789.) 

Saw-fish. — This large fish is considered a novelty in 
these waters, as it is seldom taken so far north. However, 
I have heard of their having been brought to our city, and 
that they are eatable. The New York Gazette, etc., July 29, 
1800, notices : — " On the 6th instant, a large saw-fish was 
caught at Cape May, in shoal water, which is thirteen feet 
long, girt five feet five, and beak (or saw) three feet in 
length. It is preserved in Peale's Museum, in Philadelphia." 
The Commercial Advertiser, July 14, 1814, contains news 
from Charleston, July 6, as follows : " Two saw-fish were 
caught on Saturday and Monday last, in Mr. W. S. Barnet's 
mill-pond, on James Island. The one measured fourteen 
feet long, and four and a half feet across the fins ; the other, 
fifteen feet long, and, fixe feet across the fins. We under- 
stand these fish have been presented to the Philosophical 
Society of this city." We also find in the Neiv World, July 
24, 1843, notice of an enormous specimen having been taken 
near Cape May Light-house, in January, 1843, measuring 
about eighteen feet long, the saw of which was between four 
and five feet in length." The New York Sun, August, 1856, 
also notices the taking of a monster saw-fish, in a seine, near 
Mobile. The correspondent states : " They tied a rope to 
the saw and brought it into shallow water. Two mules, with 
ten to fourteen persons, with all their strength, could move 
it only a few feet at a time. After much exertion, they got 
it in water a foot deep, when began the measuring. From 
the end of the saw to the end of the tail measured nineteen 
feet nine inches ; from fin to fin, across the back, eight feet ; 
depth, from back to stomach, three feet. Dr. Moore thinks 
its weight three thousand pounds. The liver alone weighed 
four hundred pounds, from which a barrel of oil was ob- 
tained. A thousand eggs, from the size of a marble to 



fish. 273 

twelve inches in circumference, were taken from it. It 
presented the appearance of a boat turned bottom up- 
wards." 
Bayonet-fish, giant, or broad-scaled herring*. 

— This very large, scarce fish, especially in the New York 
markets, has appeared there, to my knowledge, but four 
times, and these, I believe, were taken off the Jersey coast. 
The two specimens I saw in Washington Market, July 12, 
1865, were called by some fishermen, "Torpon;" another 
gave them the name of " carp ;" but, as the fish appears not 
generally known, and had one prominent feature, in the form 
of a stiff, bony spine (which is much like a bayonet), con- 
nected with the lower end of the dorsal fin, I have given it 
the name of bayonet-fish. The largest of the two fish 
measured just five feet seven inches in length, and not 
above fifteen inches wide, which width continued almost 
down to the tail. I supposed it would weigh about one 
hundred pounds. It had somewhat the form and color of a 
slim herring, and with a mouth which opened on the tqp of 
the head ; or, rather the under jaw was so long that, when its 
mouth was shut, it presented its chin on a line with the top 
of its head. The mouth opened down very large, the jaws 
being without teeth, but having very hard, rough surfaces, 
and of a dark greenish color inside. 1 purchased the head 
and shoulders of one (which assisted me to make a drawing 
of the fish), and boiled the best part of it. The flesh I found 
full of strong bones, with little flavor and dry eating. One 
of the fishermen (Moschett) said he had often met with 
it in the Mediterranean, where it was called serac ; but, as 
he had, several years before (1857), given the same name to 
a very large fish which, from description, resembled the 
broad-finned sword-fish, I concluded he did not know much 
more than I did about the fish. This latter fish was sold by 
Messrs. Samuel B. Miller & Brother, Fulton Market, in the 
month of August, 1857, who called it a broad-finned 
needle-fish. The body was much the shape of a Spanish 
mackerel, about six feet in length, including its long bill — 

18 



274 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

the upper one longest — and weighed abont one hundred 
pounds. The color of the back was dark blue, lighter 
underneath, and with scales about an inch long, pointed, 
horny, and quite stiff. The back fin was fan-like, and, when 
closed down, lay hid (to a side view) in a crevice of the 
back. I heard it was pronounced good eating. 

Ribbon-fish, or silvery hair-tail. — One of these 
scarce fish was presented to me by Messrs. Miller & Co., 
Fulton Market, October 21, 1859. It was a lengthy, flat- 
bodied fish, with the top or dorsal fin extending the whole 
length of the body, and ending in a small, thin, hairy tail, 
and a small fin near the gill-openings on the side. Color 
silverish, and somewhat the appearance of the Spanish 
mackerel. This specimen — no doubt, a full-grown one — was 
just forty-two inches long, and the width, at the widest part 
(near the head), three and a half inches ; about the middle, 
three and a half inches, and gradually running smaller to a 
hairy point or tail. It weighed just two and a half pounds. 
The under jaw was longest, and the mouth contained, in 
front, four long barbed teeth, and smaller ones along the 
jaw. Its flesh was white and sweet, but dry and sinewy. 
Since the above was written, a larger specimen was sent to 
me by the same parties, on the 30th of June, 1860, which 
weighed exactly one pound more ; and, no doubt, it was an 
old one, as the under jaw had the long teeth, which ap- 
peared to have been, some time before, broken off. This 
one measured over four feet in length. 

Rabbit-fish, or lineated puffer.— A fine specimen 
of this rare fish was also presented to me by the same firm 
as above, July 8? 1858. The mouth somewhat resembled 
that of the rabbit, which, no doubt, gave it the name. The 
four teeth in front close together like the parrot's bill. 
Color of a dark olive-brown, without scales, and somewhat 
the appearance of a Spanish mackerel. It had small gill- 
openings at the fin on the sides, and a soft, white, pouched 
belly (full of small sharp spines), which it has the power to 
extend or puff out like a bladder. It weighed just five and 



fish. 275 

a half pounds. This fish, and the following, were too long 
out of the water to be eaten. 

Spotted lampugus. — One of this species of fish was 
also presented, by the same firm, August 6, 1859. It was 
quite a flat fish, but beautifully speckled with light blue on 
the silvery sides, and darker on the back, where were also 
some fifteen perceptible black spots running along the. 
length of the body on each side. The lower (or ventral) 
fins, lay in an indenture under the belly. It measured six- 
teen and a half inches in length, three and a half inches 
across the widest part of the body, and weighed just one 
pound. 

Sea-wolf^ sea-cat, or tiger-fish. — To the same firm 
as above I am again much indebted for a fine specimen of 
this ill-looking fish, presented April 29, 1858, which was 
taken off the coast. The length was three feet, color of a 
bluish-gray, with twelve dark stripes running across the 
body, and with a flabby dorsal fin running nearly the entire 
length of the back ; pectoral or side fins large and broad, 
with a mouth full of teeth — those in front being long and 
sharp, and also irregular, while those in the upper jaw, or 
roof of the mouth, were flat and very hard, as, no doubt, its 
principal food is the oyster, clam, and other shell-fish. They 
are regarded by the fishermen as unfit to be eaten ; but De 
Kay says " his flesh is by no means unsavory ; when smoked, 
it is said to have somewhat the flavor of salmon." I have 
also since been informed they were delicate eating either 
fried or boiled. 

American angler, fishing-frog, sea-devil, 
monk-fish* goose-fish. — This big-headed, ugly-looking 
fish is not an uncommon one in our waters, as they have 
been taken in our harbor occasionally. A specimen was 
caught by George Bowman, in Gowanus Bay, on the shore, 
stranded, in the month of November, 1855. Mr. Bowman 
was going to dig soft clams, when he discovered it on the 
shore alive. He put his spade out towards its mouth, 
when the fish seized it, and held fast until taken to a house, 



276 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

where it lived some six hours after. It measured three feet 
two inches long, and would weigh above sixty pounds; 
much the form of a toad-fish, with a very large mouth and 
throat. The color of the upper surface of the body was 
brown, the lower part white. It had a pair of strong fins 
under the jaw, some the appearance of a hand, with which 
it is said to stir up the mud and sand when it wishes to con- 
ceal itself from its prey. The flesh had much the appear- 
ance of that from a large codfish. I have no knowledge of 
its flesh having been eaten, yet I believe it to be good from 
its looks. In the month of November, 1858, one of these 
ill-looking monsters was captured at the foot of Christopher- 
street, North River. "It was," says the Tribune, "about 
four feet in length, and weighed twenty-five pounds. The 
head was similar in shape to the rim of a man's hat, the 
body resembling the body of a codfish. On the top of the 
head, about six inches from the snout, were two eyes as 
large as a cent, while just beyond were two small horns, 
surrounded at the base by long hair. The mouth was set 
around with sharp teeth, and of sufficient capacity to take 
in the head of a child six or eight years old, and its great 
tongue seemed to be covered with little prickles. It had no 
gills, and the only breathing apertures were two holes in 
the snout. On each side were two great fins, while, pro- 
truding from the belly, were two hands with five fingers, 
and almost as perfect as a human hand." A curious ac- 
count of this fish, and a wild sea-duck called " old wife," 
is found in the Philadelphia Eepository and Register, as 
follows : 

" Near Salem, in the month of October, 1803, some lads 
were fishing near Baking Island, when they discovered a fish 
struggling on the surface of the water ; on a nearer ap- 
proach one of the lads took the gaff and pulled it into the 
boat. It proved to be a monk-fish in a swollen state. The 
lads, in want of bait, cut the fish open, when, to their utter 
astonishment, out hopped a live bird, commonly called an 
old wife. It was too feeble to escape, and the lads secured 



fish. 277 

it and brought it on shore. It is still living, and may be 
seen at Mr. Whittemore's tavern at Beverly." 

The following anecdote is thus told : " Decatur, when at 
Tunis, in 1805, frequently amused himself in pulling about 
the harbor in his barge with his gun. On one of these oc- 
casions he saw on the water a very remarkable fish, more 
like a devil-fish than any thing else he had seen. His fond- 
ness for natural history, which subsequently led to his mak- 
ing a very valuable and rare collection of marine animals, 
made him very desirous of possessing this novel specimen. 
He pulled near, fired, and struck the animal, which sunk in 
shoal water, where it could be seen on the bottom. Decatur, 
eager to secure his prize, asked Reuben James, who was his 
coxswain, to dive down and bring it up. Reuben hesitated, 
and replying, ' I don't like to trouble that chap ; he looks 
as if he would make an ugly customer,' declined the un- 
profitable exploit. Decatur immediately went over himself, 
and soon brought the strange monster to the surface. It 
should be remembered that though Decatur was a captain 
of a frigate, he was yet a young man, with a young man's 
love of enterprise and adventure." 

Lump-fish or jelly-fish. — One of these singular- 
looking fish was presented to me on the 17th of June, 1858. 
The color of the head and upper part of the body was of 
a grayish-blue ; on the under side, a very light pale-blue, 
and the whole fish has a semi-transparent look of a soft, 
tremulous mass of flesh. The back also raises up, some- 
what like the comb of an old fowl, with a short, square 
head and a small, round mouth, when open. Just behind 
the lower jaw, on the under side, is a round fringed suction, 
which it no doubt uses to attach itself to the hard bottom 
or rocks under the water, as its whole appearance denotes 
it a sluggish swimmer. Three rows of horny tubercles 
run its entire length — one commences above the eye and 
runs to the tail, the next, at the gill-openings, runs below 
the tail, and the third at the bottom, on each side of the 
belly, which runs its length. It had no scales, but a rough, 



278 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

thick skin, and weighed about fi-ve pounds. One fine speci- 
men of ten pounds weight was sent to me, which I had 
boiled, and so soft was the thick, blue skin, that I could cut 
it and peel it off the flesh very much like common jelly. 
The flesh, however, yet adhered to its soft bones, but a 
little more boiling and it came off easily. The skin was 
soft and well-tasted, while the flesh was harder but sweet : 
the bones were soft and porous and easily cut with a table- 
knife. " Richardson informs us that the Greenlanders eat 
its flesh either cooked or dried, and its skin raw, throwing 
away the tubercles." They belong to the Northern Seas, 
but are occasionally taken in our waters, from three to four 
pounds, although they are sometimes found to weigh above 
ten pounds. 

Western mud-fish, or lake lawyer. — On the 18th 
of November, 1858, I received a fine specimen of this scarce 
fish (here), from the Messrs. Miller's, of Fulton Market, 
brought, among other species of fresh-water fish, from 
Lake Ontario. Its weight was just three pounds, and in 
excellent condition, full of seed (or eggs), which appeared 
much like flax-seed, and, like the black (and other bottom) 
fish, covered with slime. Its color was mottled, of a green- 
ish-brown on the back, and lighter underneath, covered with 
large, thin, oblong scales. The dorsal, or back-fin, which 
was about one and a half inches long, commenced half way 
on the back, and ran along almost down to the tail. The 
tail, of a lancet form. It had two fleshy points, half an 
inch long, on each side of the nose ; small sunken eyes, and 
a small oblong horny plate, back of the under-jaw or throat. 
I had a small photograph taken of it, and afterwards pre- 
pared it for the table. I found the flesh short and tender, 
but with a disagreeable, rank smell and taste. It no doubt 
would have been much sweeter if skinned, but I consider it 
unfit for human food. 

Fresh-water gar, buffalo bony pike, or lake 
bill-llsh. — This appears a species of the gar, but rather a 
formidable one, if we should judge from its appearance. 



jtsil 279 

It is usually taken in the large lakes, where it is found very 
large. Its flesh has but few admirers. The body is almost 
round, armed with a hard coat of mail, and a bill or mouth 
about one-fifth of its whole length. Common weight from 
two to ten pounds, although the following will show that 
they are taken occasionally above one hundred pounds. 
Niles, in his Register of November, 1823, notices one which 
is called a pike, as having been " killed with a rifle in the 
Forked Deer Eiver, near the town of Jackson, in the Chick- 
asaw country. Its length was six feet, girth three feet, and 
weight one hundred and fifty pounds. Mr. Webb saw him 
in the water the day before he was killed, and shot him in 
the side with his rifle ; but the bullet seemed to make no 
impression. The next day he got into a tree, sloping over 
the water, and at his approach shot him at the juncture 
near the gills, between the head and body, and killed him. 
Three or four other bony-scaled pike have been seen near 
the same place, and fired at repeatedly by Mr. Haroldson 
and Dr. Collier, but without effect. All of them have a 
practice of rising every few minutes to the surface and of 
spouting up water, frequently to the height of ten feet, and 
the blowing could be heard from one to two hundred yards." 

Another of our city press of 1859, has a notice of a " Mr. 
L. TV. Scales, now in this (Keokuk Gate) city, has a fish 
called alligator gar, which beats any thing we ever saw 
before that came out of the Mississippi. It is over eight feet 
long, three feet in circumference, and weighed rising three 
hundred pounds when taken out of the river. It was killed 
in the Arkansas Eiver, a few miles above its junction with 
the Mississippi. It is his intention to exhibit it." 

The following, however, is either a pretty tough or a 
curious fish-story, which is found in the New York Sun, 
June, 1856. Mr. E. W. Fuller, writes to the Franklin (St. 
Mary's) Journal, and says : " Yesterday my workmen hauled 
up into my saw-mill a hollow log, in which we found a large 
fish of the genus filibuster, judging from his equipments. 
It resembled both the alligator gar and shark, apparently 



280 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

being a cross between them, with the tushes of the gar and 
a triple row of worked teeth. It was about seven feet 
long, in girth measuring thirty-one inches, with a coat of 
mail similar to the gar. In his stomach were found three 
dollars and seventeen cents in small silver and copper coins 
— there being twenty-nine pieces — together with a good- 
sized bowie-knife and scabbard, and a revolving pistol with 
five barrels, all loaded and capped ready for instant service. 
He appeared as ferocious as a tiger, and would snap and 
bite at every thing in his reach. The power of his jaws 
was immense. He bit the end off from a piece of plank two 
inches thick by four wide. Altogether he was an ugly cus- 
tomer, which I would not fancy to meet in his own element." 

Great sura-fish or head-fish* — This singular-look- 
ing fish is occasionally taken in our bays near the coast. 
The name — head-fish — given it, is caused no doubt from its 
appearance of a fish's head, and of sun-fish from its round- 
ish form, with the latter half of its body fringed with fins or 
flippers, which gives it an appearance of the sun's rays. 
The color on the back is of a dark gray, and shades down 
to quite white underneath. Only the very young are con- 
sidered fit to eat. (Storer calls this peculiar-looking fish 
the short sun-fish. 

The Essex Register, September, 1835, notices a "Bare 
Fish. — On Tuesday last a pleasure party, in a boat from 
Beverly, discovered a large sun-fish between Baker's Island 
and Halfway Bock ; they succeeded in taking him, and car- 
ried him into Beverly. He weighed six hundred and forty 
pounds, and it is said to have been the first ever brought 
into Beverly or Salem. His skin has been taken off and 
stuffed, and will probably be exhibited as a curiosity. We 
understand that one was carried into Marblehead about 
twenty years ago." Hazard's U, S. Register, vol. iii., 1840, 
notices : " A monster fish, called sun-fish, was taken near Mr. 
Veazie's bathing-house, end of Warren Bridge (says the 
Bunker Hill Aurora). It was alive and swimming in the 
creek. It was attacked with boat-hooks, and exhibited a 



FISH. 281 

good deal of fight and ferocity, for which it was knocked on 
the head, and having also swam with great violence against 
the stone wharf, it was easily captured. It measured about 
four feet in length, two and a half in width, and a foot thick, 
and weighed two hundred and twenty-seven and a half 
pounds. We are told that above a gallon of oil was ob- 
tained from the liver alone." 

Then we find in the New York Tribune, August 4, 1857, 
another notice of " An enormous sun-fish was captured at 
Hempstead Bay, Long Island, on Saturday last (August 1st), 
by a party of gentlemen on a pleasure-excursion. The sup- 
position was that it had come in the bay at high-water, and 
the receding tide prevented its return. Its dimensions were 
some nine feet six inches in length, by about four in breadth, 
and its weight was nearly or quite one thousand pounds. 
This one is supposed to be the largest of the kind of which 
we have any record." 

The same paper, one year afterwards (on the 6th of 
August, 1858), says : " Two of these clumsy inhabitants of 
the briny deep were captured at Sianconset, Nantucket, last 
week, one weighing over jive hundred pounds /" 

Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell notices another specimen, cap- 
tured in the lower bay within Sandy Hook, weighing about 
two hundred pounds. 

"White porpoise. — An enormous fish, called by some 
white (whale or) porpoise, was caught in the Saginaw River, 
by three Canadians, and was exhibited here (in New York) 
in the month of January, 1860, under the name of white 
tvhale. Its weight was said to have been two thousand 
three hundred and sixty pounds, and about twenty feet in 
length. It was considered a rare specimen of the porpoise. 

O'Callhan notices "A certain fish of considerable size, 
snow-white in color, round in its body, and blowing water 
out of its head," made its appearance in the North Eiver, 
in the month of March, 164:7, at the time of a great flood. 
He says " all the inhabitants were lost in wonder, for, at the 
same instant that this fish appeared to us, we had the first 



282 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

thunder and lightning this year." Barnum has shown sev- 
eral live specimens in his American Museum, among his 
collections of rare fish, and at the time (July 13, 1865) of the 
burning of his Museum, he lost two fine specimens which 
cost him some seven thousand dollars. 

Torpedo-fish, cramp-fish, or numb-fish. — This 
fish is one of the ray species, with a body and head almost 
circular, and the tail tapering down to a point. Its color is 
of a dull yellow, marked with spots, eyes very small. The 
flesh is considered equal to the common ray, and the usual 
weight is from five to fifteen pounds. We, however, notice 
one in Niks' Register, November, 1823, that is represented 
as weighing above one hundred pounds. This extraordi- 
nary fish was " taken off Martha's Yineyard, by one of the per- 
sons who were angling for cod. The animal was computed 
to weigh from one hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds. 
It was anteriorly of a roundish or circular figure, ending 
backward in a tail, making the whole resembling, in some 
sort, an old-fashioned periwig, with a tie behind. Yfhen 
displayed on the deck, it, on being touched by the fisher- 
men, struck them with a cramp through the hands, arms, 
and shoulders. It had been hooked through one of its fins, 
just fairly enough to hold it securely and have it on board. 
The flesh was very tenacious of life, and during its twitch- 
ing and velications made the murderers (who were flaying 
it) feel its narcotic and sedative effects. The skin was 
finally taken off, and with its ichthyological character is now 
in New York." Length five feet, breadth three feet two 
inches, and the color of the back a pale chestnut brown, with 
a white belly. The Commercial Advertiser, August 12, 1822, 
also contains an account of a " torpedo which was found in 
shoal water, near one of the islands in the harbor of Port- 
land (Maine). It was kept in a tub of water for ten or 
twelve hours, after which it languished and died." 

Vampyre of the ocean, or devil-fish. — One of 
these monsters of the ray species was taken and brought 
into New York in the month of September, 1823. It is par- 



fish. 283 

ticularly described in the press by Dr. Mitchell, who says 
the fishing-smack " Una" had returned from a cruise off 
Delaware Bay. " She sailed about three weeks before (9th 
September) from New York, for the express purpose of 
catching an enormous fish, which had been reported to fre- 
quent the ocean a few leagues beyond Cape May and Cape 
Henlopen. The adventurers in this bold enterprise have 
been successful" in taking this vampyre of the ocean. " Its 
strength was such that, after the body had been penetrated 
by two strong and well-formed gigs of the best tempered 
iron, the shank of one of them was broken off and the other 
singularly bent. The boat contained three intrepid men, 
John- Patchen, Theophilus Beebe, and William Potter, was 
connected with the wounded inhabitant of the deep by a 
warp of the line. The celerity with which the fish swam 
could only be compared with that of a harpooned whale. 
The weight of this fish after death was such, three pairs of 
oxen, one horse, and twenty-two men, all pulling together, 
with the surge of the Atlantic wave to help, would not con- 
vey it on the dry beach. It was estimated from this to 
equal four tons and a half, or perhaps five tons. 

"The size was enormous. From one wing or pectoral 
fin to another, expanded like the wing of an eagle, meas- 
ured eighteen feet, the distance from the snout to the end 
of the tail fourteen feet, and length of the tail four feet. 
"Width of the mouth two feet nine inches." 

This monster, or the stuffed skin, was exhibited as a 
show, in the month of December following, in a wooden 
building. " A little boy, attempting to gratify his curiosity 
by looking through an aperture of the building, was struck 
in the eye by the blade of a penknife from the interior, and 
it was thought he would lose it. The people thereupon 
took the law into their own hands, destroyed the building, 
and tore the vampyre to pieces, and secured the person of 
the offender." 

In the month of August, Niles, in his Register, notices " a 
very large individual of the species, the devil-fish, was taken 



284 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

in Delaware Bay, near the lighthouse on Cape May, Satur- 
day afternoon last. It was harpooned near the shore, but 
broke loose, however; having returned to shallow water, 
it was a second time harpooned and secured. It was 
about nineteen feet in breadth, and about twelve feet 
in length from head to tail ; weight appeared to exceed 
a ton." 

Whale. — There are several species of this enormous 
fish, among which those commonly known are the great 
Greenland whale, the spermaceti, the humpback, razor-back, 
finback, right whale, and the grampus ; some of which are 
occasionally taken in or near our New York harbor, when 
they are usually cut up to extract the oil. The flesh is edi- 
ble, and, although very coarse, is eaten by many nations and 
by some whalemen. I was informed by Judge Meigs that 
while he was in Bermuda in 1794, he ate of the whale's 
flesh, and thought it much like coarse, tough beef. He also 
says the negroes there are very fond of it, and the old 
wenches beg of the whalemen for pieces after the blubber 
has been cut off. 

Charles Francis Hall, in his " Arctic Researches, and Life 
among the Esquimaux," informs us that " the skin of Green- 
land whale is a great treat to the Esquimaux, who eat it 
raw. The black skin is three-fourths of an inch thick, and 
looks like India-rubber. It is good eating in its raw state, 
even for a white man, as I know from experience ; but when 
boiled and soused in vinegar, it is most excellent. 

" I afterwards saw the natives cutting up the krang (meat) 
of the whale into such huge slices as their wives could 
carry ; and as they worked, so did they keep eating. When 
I saw the natives actually feasting on the raw flesh of the 
whale, I thought to myself, ' Why cannot I do the same ?' 
and the response to my question came rushing through my 
brain, independent of prejudice, * Because of my education 
—because of the customs of my people from time im- 
memorial. 

" As I stood upon the rocky shore observing the busy 



fish. 285 

natives at work carving the monster before me, my eyes 
caught a group around one of the vertebrae, from which they 
were slicing and eating thin pieces of ligament that looked 
white and delicious as the breast of a Thanksgiving tur- 
key ! At once I made up my mind to join in partaking of 
the inviting (?) viands actually smoking in my sight. Tak- 
ing from the hands of Ugaring his seal-knife, I peeled off a 
delicate slice of this spinal ligament, closed my eyes, and 
cried out, ' Turkey !' But it would not go down so easy. 
Not because the stomach had posted up its sentinel to say, 
* No whale can come down here !' but because it was tougher 
than any bull-beef of Christendom ! For half an hour I 
tried to masticate it, and then found it was even tougher 
than when I began. At length I discovered I had been 
making a mistake in the way to eat it. The Esquimaux 
custom is to get as vast a piece into their distended mouths 
as they can cram, and then boa-constrictor-like, first lubri- 
cate it over, and so swallow it quite whole. 

" One old woman kindly came to me and offered a gen- 
erous slice of the ' whale gum' she was feasting on. Beach- 
ing out my hand, with one stroke of her ' ood-loo' (a wo- 
man's knife — an instrument like a mincing-knife), she severed 
the white, fibrous strip quick as thought. It cut as old 
cheese. Its taste was like unripe chestnuts, and its appeal- 
ance like cocoa-nut meat. But I cannot say this experiment 
left me a very great admirer of whale's gum, though, if the 
struggle was for life, and its preservation depended on the 
act, I would undoubtedly eat whale's gum until I got some- 
thing better to my liking." 

The great Greenland whale is the kind mostly sought 
after by the fishermen. It is said to be a large, heavy ani- 
mal, and the head alone makes a third of its bulk. It is 
usually found from sixty to seventy feet long. There is, 
however, one noticed in the Liverpool Mercury much larger. 
" On the 3d of November, 1827, an immense species of the 
Greenland whale was found on the coast of Belgium, dead, 
about twelve miles distant from Ostend, by a crew of fisher- 



286 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

men. Their boat being of too small tonnage to move so 
enormous a mass, they hailed two other boats to their as- 
sistance, and the three together towed the whale towards 
Ostend harbor, on entering which the warps by which it was 
towed snapped, and it was cast on the sands east of the 
harbor, where it was dissected, and afterwards exhibited in 
Paris and London, I believe. Cuvier and the professors of 
the Jardin des Plantes, estimated its age from nine hundred 
to one thousand years ; and one proof of its great age is 
in the cartilages of the fingers of the hands or side fins, 
which are completely ossified, or converted into bone. Its 
total length, ninety-five feet ; breadth, eighteen feet ; width 
of tail, twenty-two and a half feet ; weight when found, 
two hundred and forty-nine tons, or four hundred and eighty 
thousand pounds. Quantity of oil extracted, four thousand 
gallons." 

Another species, called the razor-back whale, was found 
near Willett's Point, on the north shore of Long Island, 
fast between two rocks which the receding tide had left dry, 
on the morning of the 10th of August, 1859. It proved to 
be a young one, and probably strayed in the Sound in 
search of food, where it got bewildered or frightened, and 
ran ashore. It was nearly twenty-five feet long, and the 
tail measured six feet across. 

Niles, in his Register of 1846, says : " On the 3d (April) 
instant, about thirty-six young whales were discovered in 
York River, Yirginia, driven ashore by the late heavy gale, 
about a mile or two from Yorktown, of Revolutionary mem- 
ory. Boats were fitted out rapidly, and proceeded to cap- 
ture the prizes." Another account of " something like a 
whale :" — " A whale of an enormous size, measuring up- 
wards of seventy feet in length and fifty in breadth, was on 
Wednesday towed alongside of a South Sea whaler lying 
at the mother bank, where it was decimated in the usual 
manner for obtaining the largest quantity of oil. This fish 
was observed on Friday, following a shoal of small fish 
through the Needles' passage, which, though sufficient for a 



fish. 287 

seventy-four to pass, was inadequate to that of this un- 
wieldy monster, as it soon found itself on a shingle bank, 
with the tide ebbing : consequently, notwithstanding the 
most violent exertions to get off, which were seen for many 
miles by the prodigious quantity of water thrown fifty or 
sixty feet high, he remained an easy prize to several fisher- 
men, who went off and cut his throat, from which, and 
other wounds inflicted on itself, the sea was dyed for sev- 
eral miles. The supposed value is <£500. A similar occur- 
rence never happened before within the Isle of Wight." — 
Found in the Commercial Advertiser, November 13, 1813. 
The same paper, of the 11th of July, 1815, gives another 
account of whales. " A gentleman from Long Branch in- 
forms us that, on "Wednesday last, three large Greenland 
whales were discovered off that place. One of them, sup- 
posed to be eighty feet long, ran ashore on the bar at 
nearly low- water, where he remained about three hours, 
roaring loud enough to be heard at the distance of two or 
three miles, and dashing the sand in every direction with 
his tail. While he was lying in this situation, his associates 
were plunging about as near to him as they could approach 
with safety, constantly spouting and throwing around the 
water, and manifesting the liveliest sympathy for their af- 
flicted companion. When the tide rose, he worked himself 
from the bar, wheeled about several times in. the water, 
joined his companions, and, spouting in triumph, steered 
his course to the northeast. 

" By his weight and his struggles to extricate himself, he 
had formed a deep gutter in the sand. 

" On the 4th of July a large whale was caught near 
Cheesequake, on the Jersey shore. It was discovered asleep 
near the beach by a man who was mowing in a salt meadow. 
The laborer, supposing the whale was dead, took an oar 
and waded out to it ; while attempting with the oar to open 
its mouth, it awoke, and rolled itself, like a log, seventy 
or eighty yards upon the beach. The laborer, who had 
escaped with difficulty, collected the people in the neigh- 



288 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

borliood, and with scythes and other instruments soon 
killed it." 



FISH — SMALL AND SCABCE. 

Black perch, Mack bass. — These excellent perch are 
taken in large numbers in the months of May, June, and 
July, on the coast of Massachusetts, and sent to our mar- 
kets, where they are found in limited numbers. The color 
is usually of a dark-brown or black, above (the head is more 
of a bronze green), and lighter beneath, covered with large 
scales. Uusual weight from one and a half to three pounds. 

Another variety, called small Hack-bass or black-perch, are 
occasionally found here, but are generally very small ; when 
found, however, of a large size, are then quite as good as 
any of their species. They are taken in the fresh-water 
lakes, and many are brought from Long Island ; usually of 
quite a dark-brown color, sometimes almost black (especially 
after spawning), with an indistinct appearance of stripes on 
the sides. In season in the fall and winter months, but are 
caught through the spring and summer months. 

©ory, monkey-fish, pig-fish, or John Pory. — 
These names are all given to this, no doubt, rare fish here, 
of which a* peculiar specimen was presented to me Septem- 
ber 30, 1862. It was a short, deep fish, with a face or head 
that looked more like a pig's than a monkey's, having but 
two long, slim, hairy fins, one of which, the dorsal, com- 
menced just behind the centre of the fish, and ran out, in- 
clining towards the tail, about five inches long, to a point, 
then from the base it continued down to the tail, of about 
half an inch long ; underneath, the ventral began about the 
centre, and continued the same as the dorsal, both ending 
at the root of the tail, which was strongly forked. The 
lateral line raised with the line of the back, and ran dis- 
tinctly to the tail. The color was bright and silvery, and 
quite white underneath. It weighed just twelve ounces, 



fish. 289 - 

and I found it excellent eating. I preserved a small draw- 
ing of this one, as it appeared different from any that I 
have yet seen or noticed in the drawings before. Another 
variety, called 

Mair-finned dory, or hair-finned arg-yreoise, 
has some of the appearance of the preceding, but the 
head is more compressed, body shorter and smaller. It is 
also furnished with two dorsal hairy fins. The colors are 
also darker. I have no doubt but it is also excellent eating. 
There is also another, called 

Rostrated dory, or rostrated argyreoise, so 
much like the preceding as to be almost taken for their 
young. They are occasionally caught in nets on the coast 
of New Jersey, where they are known as the dollar-fish, 
being about the size of a silver dollar, and much the color 
of a new specimen. They are seldom used as food, being 
too small. Another dory, under the name of 

Blunt-nosed shiner, or bristly dory, is a much 
larger fish than the preceding, and with a head, form, and 
color more like the first (monkey-fish), except that it has no 
long hairy fins, but instead it has several short, sharp 
spines, hidden in a groove in the back. A specimen of this 
thin, sharp back and belly fish, was sent to me September 
29th, 1864, with the name of moon-fish, by some New York 
fishermen. It measured nine and a half inches in length, 
in width (the widest part) four and a quarter inches, and 
through the thickest part three-quarters of an inch, and the 
weight just seven ounces. The flesh was delicate and sweet, 
but the quantity was small compared with the large amount 
of bones. 

Hair-finned blepharis, or hair-finned dory.— 
A fine specimen of this scarce fish was sent to me August 
4, 1865, which had been caught on the coast of Long Island. 
The length from nose to end of tail was just six inches, and 
four inches deep. Color, palish-blue on the back, and 
silvery-white beneath, having fine lightish brown bands 
across the body, those near the head quite indistinct. The 

19 



290 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

hair-fins, of which there were seven dorsal and six in the 
anal, measured (four of the longest) twelve inches in length, 
the others suddenly shorter. The ventral-fins were long- 
shaped, somewhat like a sword, and quite black. Its small 
quantity of flesh was delicate eating, and much the flavor 
of the dory varieties. A drawing was made of this, as it 
differed from the others I had seen. 

IJong-finned harvest-fish. — This fish is also known 
South as the rudder-fish, where it is found more plentiful, 
but occasionally it is found here. It is a short, deep, long- 
finned fish, with large eyes, small mouth and teeth, and a 
short nose. The color is of a blue and green tint on the 
sides, darker on the head. The body has some of the ap- 
pearance of the short-head fish in shape, but very much 
smaller, seldom over one and a half pounds. They are a 
very fair pan-fish, the flesh being white and delicate. 

Speckled red-mouth, speckled grunts. — This 
scarce fish, one of which was sent to me October 31, 1862, 
has some of the shape and position of its fins like the 
porgee ; the color is somewhat different, being of a bluish- 
gray or slate-colored, covered with brownish-yellow spots 
on the back, running diagonally across to the top, from the 
lateral line ; underneath of the same color, but lighter. 
This was a fine fat fish, the flesh tender and sweet, but in 
cooking it had quite a strong fish smell. Its weight was 
just one and a quarter pounds. Another species, somewhat 
like the preceding in shape, called the 

Yellow-finned red-mouth, is rather a rare visitor 
in our markets. The mouth is large and red, and the lips 
fleshy. Color of body is much like the porgee, with indis- 
tinct stripes across it, and it is said to be quite as good for 
the table as that fish. Occasionally found here in the 
months of July, August, and September. 

Carp, or common carp. — Although these fine fish 
are not natives of this country, yet for their introduction 
here, some thirty years ago (1832), we are indebted to 
Henry Eobinson, Esq., of Newburgh, Orange County, who 



FISH. 291 

introduced them into the North River, by which they haYe 
become plentiful, and are taken every season by the fisher- 
men in their nets. They properly belong to the fresh-water, 
and no doubt do not visit the sea, or even venture into 
water that is too highly tinctured with salt, which accounts 
of their always being taken near where they were first in- 
troduced. Their color is of a golden olive brown, on back 
and sides, and yellowish white underneath. Those usually 
found in the markets are from a half a pound up to three 
pounds. They have much the appearance of large gold- 
fish, but are a much better table-fish. 

White perch, gray perch, little white-bass, or 
silver perch, is one of the varieties of the sea-perch, 
and much the form and appearance of the common perch, 
except in color ; the back of which is of a light-blue shade, 
sides silvery, and white beneath. The scales on the sides 
appear like spots ; fins pale-yellow, and tail slightly forked. 
They are usually quite small, seldom weigh above a quarter 
of a pound, although they have been taken in the North 
River above a pound weight. Their size is somewhat 
against them as a table-fish, as they are delicate eating 
when properly fried. In season in the winter and spring 
months. In the fisheries on the Potomac River, at a place 
called Warburton's Landing, says the Commercial Advertiser, 
April, 1802, " there was the greatest haul of large white 
perch perhaps ever known in America ; above ten thousand 
were taken from the seine, after letting numbers get away 
by lifting the seine." I found these fish plentiful in Phil- 
adelphia. 

Bosky batistes, or iron skin. — A fine specimen of 
this rare species, weighing one and a half pounds, was sent 
to me on the 2d of August, 1866, which I made a drawing 
of, as the one I had did not represent some of its prominent 
features. In dressing it for the " pot," I found its skin so 
tough that it fairly turned the edge of my knife ; I. however, 
succeeded in getting the head off, and drawn, but before I 
got through I concluded that it ought to enjoy another 



292 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

name, and the most suitable one appeared to be " iron-shin" 
Under the throat ran a round stiff spine, which showed 
some half inch near the ventral, directly under the pectoral 
fins, which ran under the skin down to the jaw. The front 
dorsal spine (of which there were three) was very stout and 
long, and when laid down, were hid in a crevice in the back. 
The fishermen called it a rabbit fish, but I think they mis- 
took it for the lineated puffer. De Kay, however, notices it 
as the dusky balistes. The flesh was firm, flaky, and well- 
tasted, but perhaps a little dry. 

Northern foarracuta. — One of these rare or scarce 
fish was presented to me on the 2d September, 1862, which 
measured fourteen inches in length, and weighed one and a 
quarter pounds. The color on the back of a dark green, 
with a yellowish lateral line, and underneath a silvery white. 
Two dorsal and two ventral fins were placed almost directly 
opposite each other, with small pectorals, and a strongly 
forked tail. The body was almost round, with large eyes 
and mouth, and the under jaw considerably longer than the 
upper one, in which one long tooth appeared in front, 
which closed between two in the upper jaw ; behind these 
were several large and small teeth, all raking backward, and 
a very rough tongue. This specimen was taken at the east 
end of Long Island, and for the table it was very good. 

Spotted codling 1 . — A fine specimen of this small, 
scarce fish was presented to me, September 27, 1864. The 
general appearance was somewhat like a large frost-fish, 
with a small head and large eyes, scales thin and easily re- 
moved, and the lateral line black, but disconnected, or only 
in stripes a quarter of an inch long. 

The first dorsal has a black spot near the top edge, the 
tip of which is white, and underneath it has two long bar- 
bels, or hair-fins, which seem split near the end just under 
the gill-opening, and forms four ends, the main being the 
longest. It is an excellent pan- fish, much like the frost-fish. 
Its weight was just half a pound, and length eleven inches. 
I have had several specimens since, some of them much 
larger. 



fish. 293 

Long-toothed flounder, or spotted flounder.— 

This variety of the flat-fish appears rather scarce, or at least 
they are not often noticed by the fishermen ; and if so, they 
are only a spotted variety of the fluke, or oblong flounder, 
although their bodies are longer in proportion. The speci- 
men sent to me (October, 1864) measured in length sixteen 
inches ; width, including fins, six inches, and weighed one 
and three-quarter pounds. It had four large, round, distinct 
spots, somewhat like eyes, that were bordered with white, 
two near and on each side of the base of the tail, and two 
about the centre of the fish, near the base of the caudal and 
ventral fins. The flesh was well-flavored, but not so fine as 
the oblong flounder, nor so plump or fleshy ; but perhaps 
this fish was not in the best condition. 

Southern caranx. — A beautiful small fish of this 
species, weight seven ounces, was sent to me September 27, 
1862 (since that period I have had several specimens). The 
color of the back blue, on the sides yellowish, and a small 
dark spot on each side of the opercle, or gill-opening, in 
range of the eye. I found the flesh a little dry, but sweet 
and good. Another variety much like it, called 

Yellow earanx, or yellow mackerel, was also 
sent to me August 29, 1864, which weighed four ounces. It 
had a more yellow or golden appearance than the preceding, 
and a longer bodied fish. The flesh was not quite so deli- 
cate, being a little dry and insipid eating. 

Rock hass, rock perch, stone perch, or gold- 
en-eyed perch. — This greenish fresh-water bass is almost 
equal for the table to the black-bass, its near companion, as 
I have taken them both at the same time and place. They 
are, however, a smaller, deeper fish, weighing usually from 
one-half to one pound weight. The color is of a very dark 
green above, sides of a golden-copper, with several rows of 
dark spots, and the fins of a bluish-green. The nose is also 
inclined to turn up. In season with the black-bass, but are 
not usually so plentiful, I suppose on account of its size. 

Calico foass, speckled bass, or partridge-tailed 



294 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

bass. — This fish is also known among our fishermen as the 
" strawberry bass." Their form is somewhat like the sun- 
fish, but not so deep, with a hollow, compressed head, and 
a mouth which inclines to open upwards, the lower jaw being 
much the longest. Color of quite a dark green on the back, 
lighter on the sides, and covered with dark, irregular spots, 
more distinct near the tail. The fins are also placed like 
those of the sun-fish, excepting that there are eight stiff 
sharp spines in the dorsal, four in the anal, and one in the 
ventral fins. 

I have eaten of them several times (the largest specimen 
seen weighed one pound ten ounces, measuring in length 
fifteen inches, depth six inches), and found their flesh quite 
sweet, but a little dry. Found here in the winter months. 

Sole (or soal), or ]\ew York sole, — This is another 
species of the flat-fish, but usually quite small, and unlike, 
especially about the mouth, any of the other species. Sev- 
eral were sent alive to the Fair of the American Institute in 
1860, measuring from five to six inches in length (which de- 
partment was under my charge as a manager). On the 
dark side of these fish appeared several brown spots and 
bars, which ran across the fish, and the inner side reddish- 
white, with a rough skin. I found their flesh delicate eat- 
ing, much better than I expected from their looks, but a 
very small quantity of it, and somewhat troublesome to 
pick from its many bones. 

The N. Y 4 Gazette and Post-Boy, September 18, 1760, in 
the London news notices a " Mr. William Davis, of Caer- 
marthen, South Wales, who was fishing in a boat a little 
distance from the above place, caught a small soal, and just 
biting the head, as the custom there is, in order to kill it, 
the fish slipped so far down his throat as to choke him im- 
mediately." Another instance of the same kind is found 
in the Columbia Sentinel, November 19, 1806 : " In Swansea 
(Eng.), Mr. David George was in the act of disengaging a 
sole fish from a net, when the fish made a spring down his 
throat, and choked him to death." 



fish. 295 

Crar, sea-pike, bill-fish, banded gar-fish. — This 
is a long-billed and a lengthy fish, the under jaw being 
longer than the upper one, and the mouth crowded full of 
sharp teeth. The color on the back is of a dark-green, 
lighter on the side, and silver-white under, or below the two 
raised bands on each side ; there is also a band running 
along the back. I have eaten them several times, and 
found the flesh sweet, something the taste of an eel, but not 
so juicy. The backbone is of quite a light-green color. In 
season from July to October, and usually weighs from one 
to six pounds. P. Vincellette had three in Jefferson Mar- 
ket, in 1862, which weighed sixteen and a quarter pounds — 
largest over six pounds. 

Northern bill-fish, or Northern gar, is another 
of the same species, with the jaws not quite so long as the 
preceding. The color is also much like that fish, being of a 
darker green. It has also a silvery band along the body, 
and silvery- white under. They are taken in large numbers 
off Cape Cod, and found to be very nutritious and sweet 
fish. In season in the fall months. 

Needle-fish. — This name is given by some New York 
fishermen to a very rare fish which was sent to me June 
14, 1865, in a fresh condition. The name, no doubt, was 
given to it in consequence of its long, peculiar bill, alto- 
gether unlike any fish I ever saw or read of. The whole 
length of the fish was just fifteen inches, while the bill, from 
the opening of the mouth to the point, was two and a half 
inches long, and, unlike the sword-fish, the mouth opened 
on the top, or upper side of this bill, which, when pressed 
downwards, opened the mouth, and upwards, the mouth 
closed. The bill appears a continuation of the lower jaw, 
and is of a horny substance, covered with a soft, dark skin. 
The mouth was quite small, the upper jaw being only about 
an inch in length, having many small, minute teeth on both 
lower and upper jaws, as far as the mouth closed on the 
bill. The body of the fish was squarely formed, having quite 
a flat back and belly, the deepest part measuring one and 



296 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

a half inches, round the body four and a quarter inches, and 
weighed just six ounces. Color on the back of a dark-blue, 
which abruptly met a broad silver streak and merged into 
a white silvery color underneath ; and I may say it was a 
beautiful-colored fish. The fins lay in nearly the same po- 
sition as the pickerel's. The tail, however, was strongly 
forked, the upper fork being shorter and smaller than the 
lower one. It was covered with large scales, which easily 
came off. Its flesh tasted much like the gar. I preserved 
a drawing of this rare fish (at least, in New York). 

Brilliant chuhsucker, or chub of New York. 
— This is a perch-shaped fresh-water fish, having a dark 
slate- colored head and sucker mouth; the back of a dark 
dusky green ; sides silvery and yellow, interspersed with 
darkish-clouded marks, being covered with large scales and 
a considerable quantity of mucus. They usually weigh 
from a half to a pound and a half. A specimen sent to me 
weighed the latter weight ; measured, in length, thirteen 
inches ; depth, four inches ; and I found it a good, sweet, 
juicy fish. In season in the fall and winter months — the 
latter the best. Another kind I received at the same time, 
called 

Large-scaled sucker, or blue sucker, which 
weighed eleven ounces, measuring in length ten inches, and 
in depth three inches. Color of a dark pale blue on the 
back, and lighter beneath. It was not so good a table-fish 
as the above ; season the same. 

Horned sucker, horned dace, or barbel — This 
species is also from the fresh water ; in form and color some- 
what like the brilliant chubsucker. The distinctness, how- 
ever, is in the little points or horns between the eyes and 
nose. For the table it is about the same quality, and is in 
season at the same time. There is another species, called 

Ked dace, red-fin, or rough-head, usually found 
a smaller fish, also from the fresh water, which has much of 
the head and jaws covered with small pointed tubercles. 
The fins also are marked with a crimson red color, and 



fish. 297 

altogether it is a beautiful little fish, but usually too small 
for the table. Another variety, called the 

Shining dace, white dace, or shiner, principally 
found in the great lakes, is a much larger and better fish for 
the table. The color on the back is of light olive-brown, 
head darker, and the sides silvery. Another, still larger, 
called the 

Black-headed dace, lake dace, or lake chub, 
with a brownish-black head, dark olive-green back, lighter 
beneath, and of a glossy white underneath, and of about the 
same quality for the table. 

Variegated bream, dace, or yellow-bellied 
perch. — This perch-shaped fish is about the size of the 
white perch, but, as its name denotes, the variegated colors 
on the body show the green, blue, and yellow, with a silvery 
mixture throughout. It is occasionally found in the winter 
months ; but, in consequence of its small size, it is not much 
esteemed, although a sweet fish. 

Spotted thread herring, thread fish. — This is 
rather a scarce fish, although occasionally seen here. The 
peculiarity of this herring is found in the latter end of the 
dorsal or back fin, and is a long, thread-like ray, nearly three 
inches in length. It has also a round black spot back of 
the head, in range of the eye, and is shaped much like a 
shad. It seldom weighs above one pound, and is in season 
in September and October. Another scarce variety, called 

Slender herring, is long, round, and a smaller fish. 
Color of a silvery-blue on the back, lighter beneath, and the 
dorsal and caudal fins tinged with yellow. It is a summer 
fish when found here. Another more plentiful variety, called 

American alewive, or spring herring, is taken 
with the shad, and is much the form but smaller than that 
fish. The color, however, is darker on the back, with several 
indistinct spotted stripes running lengthwise on the sides, 
and silvery underneath. They are a better table-fish than 
the common herring. 

Spotted shadlne, New York shadlne ? is an- 



298 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

other shad-looking fish, but smaller, and a scarce variety. 
It has a distinct dark spot behind the gill-opening, on a range 
with the eye — in fact, nearly all the shad and herring species 
have this spot, sometimes, however, quite indistinct. These 
fish, when found, are seen here in the fall months. This is 
the poorest fish of the species for the table. 

Saury, round herring. — A fine specimen of this 
sea-fish was presented to me, October 10, 1862, which 
weighed one and a quarter pounds. It had a long, round 
body, greenish shade on the back, and silvery sides, with 
the tail strongly forked. It is correctly described, by De 
Kay, but is a much longer fish, according to its size, than 
appears in that work. As an edible fish, I found the flesh 
sweet, but quite full of small wiry bones. 

Sisco, sisouette, or lake herring. — These fresh- 
water fish are usually found in our markets in the autumn 
and winter months, and generally very fat. They have some 
of the appearance of the common herring, but with a sharp- 
pointed head, and a round form. Several specimens were 
sent to me, the heaviest of which weighed one and a quarter 
pounds. I found their flesh very sweet, but a little dry, and 
not so full of bones as I expected. I am inclined to believe 
they are the young of the common shad-salmon or herring- 
salmon I was informed by $ie historian of Jefferson 
County (R B. Hough, Esq.) that the name " sisco," given 
to this fish, originated from the name of Dr. James D. 
Seisco, who had an excellent fishery on Chaumont Bay, 
about the year 1805, where he took these and other fish by 
thousands every year. 

River moon-eye, or river herring. — One of this 
species of fresh-water fish was presented to me in the month 
of November, 1859. It had some of the appearance of the 
common herring, but shorter, and with very large eyes quite 
near the mouth ; it also had large scales and silvery sides. 
The tongue was covered with small teeth. "Weight, three 
quarters of a pound, and about the same as the above for 
the table. Another of the same species, called 



fish. 299 

Lake moon-eye, which has much of the same appear- 
ance as the preceding, but not so deep or so flat-sided a 
fish. They, however, are seldom seen here. 

Pilot-fish. — Several fish of this name were sent to me 
in the summer of 1862, which so much resembled the banded 
seriole that I was inclined to think them the same fish. The 
only difference I discovered was, that they were without the 
first dorsal fin ; the pectorals and ventral were also smaller, 
and the tips of the tail and all the other fins were fringed 
with white. I found them indifferent pan-fish. The 
banded seriole are also known by some of the fishermen as 
" rudder-fish." Another variety of this species I named 

Brown pilot-fish, as I could not find any thing like 
it. Its general appearance and form was much like the 
preceding, but a larger fish. In length it measured twelve 
inches ; depth, three and a half inches ; weight, fourteen 
ounces. It was sent to me in the month of August, from 
which I preserved a sketch. The first dorsal fin is composed 
of seven short and stiff spines ; the second, of thirty-three 
soft spinous rays, running to near the tail. The ventral has 
one short stiff spine, and some twenty soft rays, commen- 
cing one half inch from the vent, and running back' the same 
as the dorsal, and tinged with white. Color of a reddish 
brown on the back ; quite dark, and a lightish brown streak 
on each side. The pectoral fins were short, roundish, and 
quite delicate. The ventral fins counted nine stiff rays : 
eyes blue, and the flesh about the same quality as the pre- 
ceding. 

Remora, or shark-sucker. — One of these curious 
fish was presented to me, October 3, 1862, by Mr. K. D. 
Brower, fisherman, of Jefferson Market, which measured 
just twenty inches in length, and weighed* one and three 
quarter pounds. This specimen is called by De Kay " white- 
tailed remora," and correctly described on p. 307 of the 
" New York Fauna," excepting that the*" broad black band," 
running lengthwise, was not found on this fish, but merely 
a light narrow line. For the table I found it quite indiffer- 



300 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

ent eating, although without the skin it was more palat- 
able. Fishermen generally call it the " shark- sucker," as it 
is often found fastened to the shark ; and so closely is the 
back of the head (or suction part) imbedded or fastened to 
the under part of the shark's body, near the head, that it 
has no trouble to feed upon whatever escapes the shark's 
terrible jaws. 

Flying-fish, or New York flying-fish. — These 
winged fish are occasionally found in our markets, having 
been brought here by the fishing-smacks, or other fisher- 
men, more as curiosities ; but I am told by sailors that they 
are much enjoyed by them, when found on the decks of 
their vessels when trying to escape from their water enemies. 
Their side or pectoral fins are their wings, which cause their 
flight ; but it is only for a short distance, when they fall 
either in the sea or a passing vessel. Their color is of a 
darkish green, and white beneath, and from ten to twelve 
inches in length. 

There are also many varieties of small fish found in the 
markets which are usually too small to be profitable as 
human food, such as gold-fish, killi-fish, small dace, min- 
nows, sticklebacks, etc., which are kept purposely for fish- 
bait ; but, when of any size, most all are found to be delicate 
eating. I have eaten of killi-fish, among which were several 
called striped killi-fish, weighing above six ounces each, and 
I found the flesh very sweet, but a little dry. 

A friend, on Long Island, has a stock of gold-fish which 
multiply so fast that he occasionally takes them, from a half 
to one pound weight, for the use of his table. Several 
curious specimens were also taken, some of which had three 
tails ; others, again, were quite round or flat, mottled with 
black, silver, and gold, and had different heads and forms 
of fins, which would lead many to think that they were of 
different varieties ; but he informs me that all were bred 
from the common gold-fish. They are generally found to be 
more ornamental than useful, and are sought after for their 
beautiful colors and domestic habits or tameness. 



5HELL-FISH. 301 



SHELL-FISH, &e. 

Under the above head I have placed the crustaceous and 
the molluscous species of shell-fish, commencing with those 
generally placed under the first named. 

Lobsters. — These shell-fish are too well known to need 
description, as they are usually found in great plenty in our 
markets in all months of the year, except December, Janu- 
ary, and February. They are, however, better in some of 
the months than others ; that is, the female or hen lobster 
is generally preferred through the summer months — es- 
pecially June and July — and the male, or " ram" lobster in 
the winter months, when found. The latter is distinguished 
from the hen not only for its want of eggs under the flap, or 
tail, but by the longer and narrower back, running quite to 
the tail and including the fan or fins. When the eggs, or 
berries, of the female are large and quite brown, the lobster 
will be found exhausted, watery, and quite poor. The larg- 
est are not always the best, but those ranging from four to 
six pounds in weight, when fat, are the choice and most 
delicate. 

A very fine variety called blue-backs, with quite thin shells, 
brought from the coast about Cape Cod, in the months of 
May and June, are sought after by the lobster epicure. 
The average weight is usually from two to four pounds, al- 
though I have heard of their weighing above twenty. I am 
told that one was sold in Fulton Market, several years ago, 
of twenty-eight pounds ! ! The female seldom weighs above 
eight pounds. When fresh they are always lively, and the 
tail will spring strongly back under them when lifted from 
the stands. Many are found cooked in some of the mar- 
kets, more particularly the Fulton, of New York, and Fan- 
euil Hall, of Boston, who send them all over the country. 
The whole lobster is good to eat, except the shell and craw, 
or stomach, which lies between the eyes. 



302 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Professor Kalm, in his travels here in 1748, speaks of 
lobsters as being " plentifully caught hereabouts," and fur- 
ther says : " I was told of a very remarkable circumstance 
about these lobsters, and I have afterwards frequently heard 
it mentioned. The coast of New York had already Euro- 
pean inhabitants, for a considerable time, yet no lobsters 
being in this part of the sea, they were therefore continually 
brought in great well-boats from New England, where they 
are plentiful ; but it happened that one of these well-boats 
broke in pieces near Hell-gate, about ten English miles from 
New York, and all the lobsters in it got off. ,: Since that 
time they have so multiplied in this part of the sea that they 
are now caught in the greatest abundance." The Gazette, 
etc., September 11th, 1766, says : "A live lobster, which 
weighed thirteen pounds and a quarter, was sold (in the 
previous month of July) at Billingsgate Market Garden 
(London) for twenty-four shillings (at New York, in 1765, 
one of eighteen pounds sold for two shillings and sixpence)." 
Some considerable difference in the weight and price. 

Some time before the Bevolution, "A Wm. Bichards, of 
Philadelphia, famous there for pickling sturgeon, came to 
New York and planted lobsters near Hell-gate, East Biver ; 
they grew and became plenty, and he had a vote of thanks 
from the 'Assembly.' ' At the commencement of the Eev- 
olution, the harbor of New York, it is said, abounded in fish 
and lobsters of the largest size ;. but immediately after the 
cannonading by the vessels of war in the Battle of Long 
Island, and the taking possession of New York by the 
British army, they all at once disappeared, and but few 
were taken until within the last fifty or sixty years ; since 
when they appear to have been gradually " creeping down," 
so that they have been often taken opposite the city. 

An amusing, but no doubt a painful incident, called " The 
lobster's revenge," found among the trials before the Paris 
Tribunal of Correctional Police, in 1852, was that against a 
dealer in fish, who was summoned by a Madame Grebuchet, 
who claimed thirty francs damages for the injury caused to 



SHELL-FISH. 303 

her nose by one of the defendant's lobsters. The plaintiff, 
wishing to regale her husband with a delicacy for his din- 
ner, went to the market and was bargaining for a lobster, 
which she took up in her . hand, but threw it down again, 
saying it was not fresh. The fishwife protested that it was 
alive, but Madame Grebuchet asserted the contrary, and 
that it even stunk. To satisfy herself that such was the 
case, she a second time applied her nose to it, when the lob- 
ster, as if in defence of its owner's veracity, seized hold of 
Madame Grebuchet's nose with its claw, and held it fast. 
She screamed for assistance, but, instead of immediately 
rendering it, the dealer and her companions around burst 
out into a laugh, and it was some little time before the nose 
of the lady could be released. The fishwoman, in her de- 
fence, maintained that she was not to blame, and that the 
mischief was solely caused by the imprudence of Madame 
Grebuchet in applying her prominent feature so closely to 
the lobster's claw, when she had been told that it was alive ; 
and the Tribunal, taking the same view of the case, dis- 
missed the complaint, and the plaintiff ordered to pay costs." 

Crabs. — The crab is not so generally used as the lob- 
ster, but it certainly is of a better flavor, if more trouble- 
some to prepare. The middling size, when heavy, lively, 
and with large claws, are considered the best and sweetest. 
If light, they are poor and watery : when stale, the eyes 
look dead and the claws hang down. The female is usually 
thought inferior to the male, and she may be known by the 
claws being smaller, and the flap, or apron, larger, which 
appears on the white or under side. 

In taking them up with the hand, catch them by the fla 
fin or leg, behind, next to the body ; they then cannot reach 
you with their large claws. They are in season from June 
to January, and considered the most wholesome in the win- 
ter or cold months. In the year 1817 an ordinance was 
drafted prohibiting the sale of crabs in the public markets, 
"from the 15th of December to the 1st of March in each 
year," but afterwards rescinded. 



304: THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

The process of casting off its old shell occurs annually 
(between June and October), and when taken just before 
that time they are called shedders, or 

8hedder crabs, when they are readily known by those 
who deal in them. The flap or apron has a red and blue 
appearance, and by breaking a point of the old shell the new 
or soft one is discovered under it. In this condition they 
are principally used for bait in " fishing." When they are 
taken with the old shell off, and the new, yet soft, shell on, 
they are in a helpless state, and are generally found near 
the shore ; they are then called 

Soft crabs or soft-shelled crabs. — These are con- 
sidered a great luxury, when fried, and also by the fisher- 
men for bait, when high prices are paid for them. They are 
found in this state in the months of June, July, August, 
September, and part of October. The female crab, when 
full of eggs or spawn — that is, under the apron will be seen 
large numbers of these little brownish-green eggs, which, as 
they grow in size, presses this apron out until it stands at a 
right angle ; in this state they are known as the cow-crab, 
and are then usually found in the channels or deep water, 
where they go to deposit their eggs or young, and are then un- 
fit to be eaten ; but as the cold weather advances they soon 
after become fat again. The severe cold weather, however, 
drives them into the mud, where they are raked up and 
brought to our markets through the winter in a fat condition. 

From the Sun, July 7th, 1855 : " Crab Extraordinary. — 
We were yesterday shown a crab of the most extraordinary 
dimensions, taken by Mr. John Carlyle, of Brooklyn, in Go- 
wanus Bay. It is of unusual size and weight, and the fish- 
ermen in the neighborhood had never seen any thing equal 
to it. It measures three feet in length from tip to tip of the 
claws, and weighed when taken full eight and a half pounds." 

Morse-foot or king crab. — Great numbers of this 
species of crab are taken in the spring of the year ; but they 
are seldom sold in our markets, although, it is said, when 
the flesh is carefully separated from the other parts and 



SHELL-FISH. 305 

boiled it becomes a delicious, savory food. Their form is 
that of a horse-foot, with a long, stiff, horny, triangular, 
sharp-pointed tail, which appears their weapon of defence. 
They come to the shore to deposit their eggs in the sand on 
the coast. So numerous are they on, this occasion that the 
beach is covered with them for miles. Many thousands are 
shovelled Up with their eggs in wagon-loads, of which the 
eggs are used to feed poultry, and the crabs to feed hogs, 
or in making a rich manure. Several other species are 
sometimes found in our markets, but more for curiosity than 
food, among which are the spotted crab or sand crab, 
the lady crab, the oyster crab. This latter crab is 
considered a delicacy when found in the oyster, while the 
two former are inferior or seldom or never eaten. There is 
also another little shell-fish, about the size of the first joint 
of the finger, called tiddler or soldier crab, that has 
only one large claw, which it carries before when it runs, 
and at the same time it is ready for defence or attack, the 
claw being about the same proportion as the big fiddle is to 
the violoncello player in an orchestra. They are found in 
the soft banks along the salt-water ditches, where their nu- 
merous holes denote their presence. Their flesh is eatable 
and quite sweet — when you can find it. 

Shrimp. — This lively little animal, somewhat the form 
of a lobster, is not much used for the table, but large quan- 
tities are taken and sold for " fish-bait." When of good 
size, however, they are found to be sweet and well-flavored. 
Many are used in making sauces, stewing, etc. 

Prawns, American prawns, or big shrimp. — 
These are usually found larger and quite differently formed 
from the preceding, having a larger head and eyes, with a 
saw-like beak or crest, which bends upwards : also a sharp 
back (especially near the tail), flat-sided, and the claws, es- 
pecially the large biting ones, quite small ; in fact, it is un- 
like either the lobster or shrimp. The two hair-fins are also 
three times the length of the shrimp. Many years ago they 
were taken on the shores of Long Island, but now they are 

20 



306 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

brought from the South, especially from Charleston, already 
cooked, usually sold by measure. They are excellent eating. 
In season from April to November. 

Oyster. — Of this famous shell-fish, but two principal va- 
rieties appear here : these are the Northern and Southern, 
although the oystermen have many names to distinguish the 
particular place where from, such as East Bivers, York 
bays, Saddle-rocks, Mill-ponds, Shrewsburys, City Islanders, 
Cow Bays, Blue-points, Chingaroras, Virginias, Dela- 
wares, &c. 

The Northern oyster has a broad, thin, tough shell, with 
a pleasant smell, savoring of the odor of marine plants, while 
the Southern oyster has a thick, spongy, soft shell, and of 
less flavor. There is no doubt the oysters taken on our 
coast, in our bays, inlets, and especially the East Biver, at- 
tain their most luscious flavor. They are in season almost 
the year through, except when spawning ; then they are 
milky, watery, poor, and considered unfit and unwholesome 
food. The months of their spawning appears in May, June, 
and July. It is said that planted oysters — that is, those 
that have been transplanted from their native beds and 
placed and fattened on others prepared for them — are never 
milky, and, no doubt, by their being thus removed or dis- 
turbed before they have commenced to spawn, has caused 
them to stop this process, while in their natural beds they 
were always subject to this objection. 

An unusual excitement, or, rather, an " oyster panic," oc- 
curred in New York City, in October, 1855, which prevailed 
against the use of oysters as an article of food for several 
weeks. Several highly-esteemed citizens died very sudden- 
ly by cholera, which it was thought was occasioned by eat- 
ing diseased oysters. Various causes were assigned for 
their poisonous quality : some attributed it to drouth ; 
others, that the oysters had been taken up during their 
spawning time, and thus become diseased. The same com- 
plaint and fatal instances existed at Baltimore, Alexandria, 
Georgetown, and other places. 



SHELL-FISH. 307 

Dr. James E. Chilton, a noted chemist, after making a 
chemical examination of them, says : " It is not an unusual 
circumstance that oysters and other shell-fish, when eaten 
after having been kept long during the warm season, will 
produce serious illness resembling cholera ; but no such ill 
effects would be likely to arise when they are received fresh 
from our waters." 

Several years ago oysters were seldom seen for sale in 
their general spawning season ; it was not only against the 
laws (as it is now), but the people would not buy or have 
them in their possession. An ordinance was passed in 1839 
which reads as follows : " No person shall bring into the 
City of New York, or have in his or her possession, in the 
said city, any oysters, between the first day of May and the 
first day of September, in any year, under the penalty of 
five dollars for any quantity not exceeding one hundred, 
and the further penalty of two dollars for every additional 
hundred." 

No shell-fish should ever be used as food when their shells 
remain open, as they are then dead, unfit, and one such will 
spoil the whole dish. 

Wholesale dealers usually have four qualities or sizes on 
sale. The best are known as extras, then follow the box, 
cullings, and bushels. Other dealers sell at retail, and also 
open them, which they sell by the hundred, gallon, or quart 
to private families ; and others again make a large business 
in pickling them, for home and foreign consumption, which 
are sent throughout the " States," and for shipping. 

I have always found the best and finest flavored oysters 
were those of a middling or even a smaller size to eat out 
of the shell, either raw or roasted. The clusters are seldom 
found as good as single oysters, and especially those of un- 
natural length, are usually found poor and watery. I have 
known twelve large long slim oysters standing endwise and 
upright, like the quills upon a porcupine's back, all growing 
upon one stem. 

In the month of September, 1859, a discovery of a great 



308 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

oyster-bed was made at Eaton's Neck, on the Long Island 
shore, by five fishermen from Darien, Conn. It is stated 
that " they found themselves drifting too far out ; and drop- 
ping overboard an oyster-dredge to bring their boat to an- 
chor," when ready to draw it in again on board, they 
found it very heavy, and after raising it to the surface, they 
had it filled with fine large oysters, when they soon loaded 
their boat, and entered into a mutual compact of secrecy : 
but it was broken ; the information was sold, and the valu- 
able discovery was soon made public. Thousands of bush- 
els were taken and replanted, and those which were planted 
in deep water, produced some extra fine large oysters, which 
found a ready sale in our markets. 

Perhaps the largest oyster ever taken on the coast of the 
United States, or which we have any record of, is noticed 
in the Mobile Advertiser in the month of April, 1840. This 
says : " The large oyster taken by Xavier Francois, while 
oystering on Monday last, was brought up from the wharf 
on a dray last evening. An oyster measuring three feet one 
inch in length, and twenty-three and a half inches across the 
widest part of it, is a curiosity. Mr. Ayres, the purchaser, 
will exhibit it at the Alhambra this day at eleven o'clock, 
when it will be opened and served up in his usual good style." 

An oyster of pretty good size, out of a lot of East Rivers, 
was opened by Braisted, of Jefferson Market, January 27, 
1865, which contained a small fish known as the spotted 
gunnel, or butter-fish, measuring six inches in length, and a 
half an inch in depth, flat or compressed sides, and a dorsal 
fin extending from back of the head to the tail, filled with 
sharp spinous rays ; the anal fin from about the centre or 
vent, also to the tail, with two small pectoral fins, and a 
roundish tail. It was quite dead. 

Hard clams, hard - shelled clams, round 
clams, and (the Indian name) quahaiig. — This bivalve 
is the most in use in and about New York, and is much 
prized by many of our citizens as an article of food, espe- 
cially from some localities, when it is so savory as to be al- 



SHELL-FISH. 

most equally valued with the oyster. They are a 
ered very nutritious and healthy, and used by pt 
every condition in life. The best qualities are those 
from Fire Island, Cow Bay, Little Neck Bay, Flushing K 
Oyster Bay, City Island, Egg Harbor, Rockaway, Shrews- 
bury, Shinecock, New Inlet, etc. A very large amount of 
these clams are sent or distributed all over the States, and 
also in our steamers, in a fresh and pickled state. I have 
known two or three incidents of this shell-fish catching rats, 
which occurred in the following manner. When lying on 
the stands quiet some time, they open their shells, no doubt 
in search of water or food, and while in this state, one 
night, a large rat took a fancy to extract all that was most 
valuable to his clamship's existence, by inserting one of his 
fore-paws into the partially open door of the bivalve's 
household. This sudden and unwelcome introduction was 
so unexpected and sensitive to the shell-mailed inhabitant, 
as to cause the quick closing of his doors, by which the in- 
truder was tightly fastened and secured. A considerable 
squealing and dragging around was the result, but there 
was no let up, until the rat as well as the clam paid the 
death penalty. Another curiosity is found noticed of the 

Giant dam, which is the largest of all the testaceous 
animals. " Only one shell in Mr. Turell's cabinet weighs four 
hundred pounds. Upon a moderate calculation, the animal 
which it contained would afford a meal for a hundred men. 
It is a native of the shores of the Indian Ocean, where, it is 
said, at low-water the tiger comes down to seek for food : 
he puts his paw into the shell to get at the animal, when 
the shell closes and holds him so fast that he either loses 
his paw or is drowned by the rising tide." — Boston Weekly 
Mag., 1803. 

Soft clams, soft-shelled clams, long clams, and 
piss-clams. — This fine clam enjoys several names, as ap- 
pears above, but the most common one is soft clam, from the 
fact that it has a thin, brittle, or soft shell. It differs in 
shape from the hard-shell, being some longer, and the taste 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

a and luscious ; they are also considered very nu- 

They are found in great abundance along the 

.„nd the numerous creeks, at low-water, in groups or 

lilies, about nine to twelve inches under the sand. 
Yhereveryou find the shore full of round holes, about the 
size of a small finger, there you may be sure to find soft 
clams. It is through these small holes they feed at high- 
water. They are usually found opened in our markets ; and 
the best are here in the winter months, or from September 
to May, after which they are not so good. When the tides 
are very low, or the water has been driven off the shore by 
high winds, then large, fine clams are dug up, and found on 
sale as soon as they can be brought to the markets. 

Beach clam, dipper clam. — This is one of the 
largest clams known ; of an olive-brown color, shaped much 
like the hard clam, but the flesh is tough and not so sweet 
as the latter clams, although some persons enjoy them ; 
they are, however, principally used for fishing-bait. Many 
are taken on the shores of Long Island, but are only occa- 
sionally found on sale in our markets. 

Razor-shell clam. — This is a singular-looking shell- 
fish — long, curved somewhat the shape of a razor-blade, and 
by some the flesh is esteemed as a good article of food. It 
is not usually much larger than a jack-knife. Seldom found 
in our markets. 

Clams ashore. The Hempstead, L. I., Enquirer (February, 
1839) says : " During the recent gale large quantities of 
clams of all descriptions were thrown upon the beach for 
an extent of nearly eight miles, and so great is the quantity 
now lying high and dry, that it is supposed it would require 
all the horses and wagons in the town of Hempstead, for 
months, to carry them away." 

Scollops, or scallops. — These are found in plenty in 
our markets, when in season ; are best from September to 
March. Only the muscular part, or, as some call it, the 
heart, is used as food. They are good boiled and pickled, 
but much better fried ; many, however, do not like their 



SHELL-FISH. 311 

peculiar sweetness, which is somewhat like the flavor of a 
rich soft clam's, but much more cloying and satisfying. 

MUiscles. — These shell-fish are generally found best — 
in fact, only fit to eat — in the fall and winter months, and 
seldom in great quantities, as they are not generally es- 
teemed very high as food. They are best boiled and pickled, 
but, on account of their solid texture, etc., they do not 
readily digest, and therefore do not agree with many stom- 
achs. Summer Sunday mornings they are plentifully found 
at the Catherine Market. 

Fresh -water muscle. — This muscle, or clam, is taken 
from fresh-water streams, but seldom used as food, being 
very tough, and considered unwholesome. Pearls of value, 
however, are sometimes found in them. I saw some in 1856 
that were sold to jewellers at from one to five dollars apiece. 
Since that time many have been found worth as many hun- 
dreds apiece. 

Winkles, or periwinkles. — There are several species 
of this shell-fish sometimes found in our markets, usually at 
the Catherine Market, on a Sunday morning. They are 
caught and brought from the Long Island shore, and sold 
here as an article of food ; but they are not generally rel- 
ished, being somewhat strong-flavored. They are mostly 
used by the poor who live near the coast. Found in the 
summer and fall months. In England they are called " wilks." 

Cockles. — These shell-fish are often picked up with the 
round clam, in the mouths of rivers and bays near the ocean. 
Their form is shaped like the clam, but wrinkled and rough. 
They are not much thought of as food, are quite scarce, and 
seldom seen in our markets. 

Snails. — From the French journals, we learn that snails 
have become a fashionable article of diet in France. " That 
there are fifty restaurants, and more than twelve hundred 
private tables, in Paris, where snails are accepted as a deli- 
cacy by from eight to ten thousand consumers. The market 
price of the great vineyard snails is from 2f. 50c. to 3f. 50c. 
(forty-seven to sixty-six cents) per hundred, while those of 



312 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

the hedges, woods and forest bring only from 2f. to 2f. 25c 
(thirty-eight to forty-three cents.)" Snails are, and have 
been for several years, imported from Europe, but are prin- 
cipally used by foreigners. They are generally stewed after 
having been scalded out of their shell. 

Crreen turtle • — This fine turtle is well known to the 
epicure for its delicious steaks and the savory soup which it 
affords. The flesh appears to be of three colors, and it is 
said to combine the taste of fish, flesh, and fowl, although 
one of the members of the " Turtle Club" (Denman), who 
appears well informed on the subject, says : " The dark red 
flesh is called beef, a lighter part veal, and the other part 
lamb." The fat is of a green color. The veal part is gen- 
erally used for steaks, which are taken from the fore-quarter. 
Those under fifty pounds weight are called " chicken turtle," 
and from fifty to eighty pounds weight are considered the best. 

In preparing them, after having hung them up by the hind- 
fins, and taken off the head, some five or six hours after, 
they should be taken down, and the shells, both under and 
top, nicely cut off, then drawn or emptied, and cut up as 
desired. They are found in our large markets, sometimes 
as early as May, and continue to cold weather ; occasionally 
to be had in the winter months. They are kept alive in 
large cars, and fed with cabbage-leaves, beet-tops, etc., of 
which they appear to be fond. The dealers have them to 
weigh from ten to upwards of four hundred pounds. 

Green turtle are occasionally seen and taken in our waters, 
although they belong in the warmer latitudes, West Indies, 
Florida, etc. The Columbian, August 23, 1819, says : " On 
Thursday last, a smack, coming from Whitestone through 
Hell-gate, chased a large green turtle some distance, but the 
game escaped by sinking under the small-boat at the mo- 
ment of seizure." Better luck had Mr. Van Eanst, of the 
Williamsburgh ferry, who, next day, off Bushwick Creek, 
with a hook and line, caught one which weighed forty-eight 
pounds, and refused five dollars for it at the dock. 

Some few years ago one of our dailies told an amusing 



SHELL-FISH. 313 

story of a distinguished politician from the rural districts, 
who came to New York, and resolved to give a splendid 
dinner to some of his party friends. In order to make sure 
that every thing should be of the best quality, he went to 
market himself, and bought first a turtle. After taking great 
pains to select one of the finest specimens in the lot, and 
ordering it to be sent home, he said to the fisherman, by 
way of making it quite right — " This is a right-down genu- 
ine turtle, ain't it?" "Certainly," was the reply; "one of 
the very best." "Because," he added, "although I ain't 
been in the city long, I ain't to be humbugged ; it won't do 
for you to try to put off any of your confounded mock turtles 
on to me." The turtle-dealer stood astounded at his cus- 
tomer's sharpness. 

The New York Daily Times, September 29, 1864, has 
"A Curiosity. — Mr. Brittan, of the Mansion House, corner 
of Bleecker and Crosby streets, several weeks since, imported 
a lot of green turtle. They were killed shortly after their 
arrival, and nothing more thought of the affair, until yester- 
day, when about thirty young ones were found crawling 
about the premises. On examination it was found that sev- 
eral eggs had been laid near a wall heated by a range, and 
in that manner incubation had taken place. The little ones 
are quite a curiosity, being probably the first native-born 
green turtle ever seen in this city." 

Salt-water terrapin. — This is the well-known ter- 
rapin of the epicure, and the best of the turtle tribe. They 
are usually cooked with the shell on for the various dishes, 
and considered best and fattest in the months of November, 
December, and January. Almost any old New Yorker 
recollects Alexander, or rather " Sandy Welsh," who kept 
the " Terrapin Lunch," under the Museum. He could pre- 
pare a dish of stewed terrapin that would make an old- 
fashioned alderman shake his full round front and sides with 
laughter, and, in the end, burst the buttons off his waistcoat, 
while enjoying this luxurious feast. Sandy was the great 
purchaser for all the terrapin at the Washington Market in 



314 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

his day. The largest portion come from the South, and 
occasionally we have a few from Long Island. 

A remarkable specimen is noticed by the editor of the 
New York Commercial Advertiser, in the month of October, 
1826. He says : " We have this morning examined a young 
terrapin, caught yesterday at Staten Island, by Louis S. 
Korkie, and by him presented to Mr. (Eeuben) Peale, for 
the Pantheon Museum (at this period stood No. 252 Broad- 
way), which is a very great curiosity. It has two heads, and 
but four legs as usual. The heads and eyes are perfectly 
formed. But what appears more singular, is the fact that 
they are endowed with different instincts or intelligences — 
that is, there is no concert of action between them. One 
head often pulls one way, and the other another ; and it is 
often a matter of some struggle in which direction the animal 
shall move. Sometimes one is the master, and sometimes 
the other, during which time the progress is slow. Now and 
then, however, when they put their heads together, and have 
apparently the same object in view, they walk off with the 
ordinary speed of common terrapins. It is really a curiosity 
which will afford much gratification to naturalists." 

^oft-shelled turtle. — The color of this turtle's shell is 
of a dark slate, with numerous spots over it. The head has 
a white stripe on each side ; the neck, feet, and tail, are 
covered with white and black. The flesh is much esteemed 
as wholesome and nutritious food. 

IiOg*g*er-head turtle.— This turtle is sometimes 
brought to our markets for sale, but are not much sought 
after, and, of course, do not sell well, especially the large 
ones. A small fat one makes tolerable soup for a hungry 
man. They have quite a smooth shell on their back, a large 
thick head, and appear quite helpless on land. 

Hawks-bill turtle. — This is a scarce turtle in our 
markets, but is sometimes found here. It has a small mouth 
resembling the bill of a hawk. The shell is the " tortoise- 
shell" used in combs, etc., but the flesh is considered poorer 
eating than the logger-head. 



SHELL-FISH. 315 

^Leather-turtle. — These turtle are sometimes taken 
on the coast or Sound, usually of very large dimensions. 
Their mouth is different from either of the above ; the upper 
jaw is somewhat like a parrot's, pointed down, which, when 
shut together with the lower jaw, fits like a tooth of a steel- 
trap. The shell on the back has five long raised ridges 
running lengthwise. 

An enormous specimen is now (1860) exhibited in Barnum's 
Museum, which was taken on the 27th of September, .1811, 
by Samuel Coon, and other pilots, off the coast, when it was 
said to have weighed eight hundred pounds. The Colum- 
bian, September 28, 1811, says of this " mammoth turtle :" 
" Yesterday the pilots on board of the boat Young Pilot, at 
sea, fell in with a sea-turtle, harpooned it, got it on board, 
and brought it up to the city, when it was weighed in the 
hay-scales at Whitehall, and found to weigh eight hundred 
pounds, being by far the largest we have any account of in 
this country. We understand Messrs. Coon, White, and 
Torrey, the pilots who took it, have disposed of it to Mr. 
Scudder, of the American Museum (then kept at 21 
Chatham-street), where it may be seen." This turtle may 
yet be seen in Barnum's famous museum, and thousands of 
curiosities besides, for the small sum of twenty-five cents. 

Another, no doubt of the same species, I find noticed in 
an old paper, September 7, 1773, as having been taken on 
the coast or Sound near New Kochelle, N. Y. " A turtle of 
an enormous size, and singular form and marks, was taken 
with a harpoon by Mr. Bleeker, and some others, near New 
Bochelle ; his length is eight feet from fin to fin, and seven 
feet three inches from stem to stern. He is spotted under 
the fore-fins like a leopard, and discovered amazing swift- 
ness after having been struck with a harpoon. He had 
been seen among the rocks for three or four years, in the 
neighborhood of New Bochelle, but was not known, before 
the capture, to be a turtle. He is found to be upwards of 
eight hundred pounds weight." 

Snappers, or snapping turtle.— This is an ugly, 



316 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

savage-looking specimen of the turtle species, with a large 
head, feet and claws. Sometimes known to weigh above 
forty pounds. The flesh of the young — from two to five 
pounds — are the best, being very nutritious and savory food, 
but the large and old are sometimes quite strong, and of a 
musky flavor. The eggs are esteemed by the epicure. 
When found in our markets, the head is curbed or fastened, 
as their jaws are like a vice when it takes a hold. It will 
allow its head to be severed from its body before it will yield, 
and I have heard of there being life in it seven days after. 

In the month of July, 1820, the Commercial Advertiser 
notices how a snapper was caught on Long Island : " A 
lad of this Island, by the name of Eobert Sheila, recently 
adopted the singular mode of catching snapping-turtles 
with a rat-trap, and actually succeeded in catching one by 
the nose, weighing twelve pounds nine ounces, by baiting 
the trap with pork, sinking it to the bottom of a mill-pond, 
where those turtles are plenty, and making it fast to a stake. 
The one above-mentioned was taken by the trap, and from 
the trap by Bob, in less than one hour after setting it." 

In the year 1848, while on a hunting excursion, in cross- 
ing a meadow in Westchester county, N. T., we came across 
a large snapper, about the size of a peck measure, which 
afterwards proved to weigh above twenty-five pounds. A 
few days previous, I was told by my hunting companion, 
that his daughter, then some twelve years of age, went to a 
spring (some distance from the house) for water, and in 
stepping on the stones near it, a large snapper, being under 
one, suddenly snapped and caught the toe of her shoe, 
which so frightened her that she had no power to call for 
help for several moments ; she was, however, heard, and 
before the ill-looking animal could be taken off, a sharp 
axe was brought into action, which soon separated the body 
from its vice-like jaws. 

The Shenandoah Herald, 1824, relates the following cu- 
rious incident, which happened within two miles of Wood- 
stock : " On observing a large hen-hawk fluttering near the 



SHELL-FISH. 317 

ground, it was discovered that he was held by a snapping- 
turtle, who retained so firm a hold of one of its feet, that 
it was with difficulty extricated after the hawk was killed." 
It was supposed that the hawk intended to capture the 
turtle, but got captured instead. 

Another more remarkable incident occurred with one of 
these animals, which was caught by an acquaintance, who 
informed me that he put the snapper in hot water after 
taking off his head, and a minute had not elapsed before 
quite a large snake came out of the body and ran over the 
floor, when it was killed. It was a hard story to believe, 
but if a snake could be swallowed by the animal without 
injury, then I must believe it, and therefore give it as I 
heard it. 

Red-bellied terrapin, or red-legs. — This variety 
of the terrapin is much the largest, but not equal to the 
salt-water kind for the table. Many are found in the Phila- 
delphia markets, and occasionally seen in the markets of 
New York, usually brought from New Jersey, where I have 
taken them in the streams and mill-ponds, and also on the 
land. Some persons consider them, in the winter season 
(when fat), almost or quite the equal of any of the terrapin 
species. 

Fresh-water terrapin, or wood terrapin. — This 
variety, I believe, is not the common fresh-water terrapin, 
but much like them. They wear a brown-colored shell with 
a reddish tinge, with also a reddish neck and feet, speckled 
with black. Their flesh is considered equal to the preceding, 
especially by those who take them, as they generally use 
them in their families, seldom sending them to market. 

Smooth terrapin* — This species is sometimes found 
in the markets, with a smoother shell than the salt-water 
terrapin, and considered almost its equal for the table. The 
legs are shorter, and the head without the black spots. 

Painted tortoise. — This is the handsomest of our 
fresh-water species, and but seldom seen for sale. Not 
much esteemed as an article of food. 



318 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 






Spotted turtle, or speckled turtle.— This is the 
common " skillepot" which inhabits almost every muddy 
pond or sluggish stream. It is not generally eaten, its flesh 
being of a muddy, insipid, and strong taste. 

Frogs. — The edible frogs are known as the " Gibbou's 
green frog," although I believe most all of the varieties are 
eaten, or rather the hind-quarters. They are sold in oui 
markets by some of the fishermen, ready skinned, at so 
much per piece or dozen, according to the size. They are 
very delicate, and quite sweet eating ; those who try them 
once, seldom refuse to eat again of them. Foreigners, 
however, use them most, and think they are more delicate 
than the thigh of the woodcock, and praise the exquisite 
dishes of which it forms the component part. They are 
usually stewed, fried, fricasseed, etc. 

Preparing fish for cooking. — The great thing to 
be attended to in the preparation of fish, is to cleanse away 
every particle that is offensive, and yet to do this in such 
a manner that the fish may retain its stiffness, which is fre- 
quently destroyed by the knocking about and handling it 
while the process is going on. By this means the firmness 
and fine flavor, if not wholly destroyed, is in a great degree 
impaired. Another thing to be kept in mind is, that many 
different kinds of fish require to be opened in a different 
manner. Some require great pains to be taken in the 
scalding of them, or cleansing them from their slime ; others 
may be dressed without undergoing this process at all, or 
even gutted ; and some there are, as fresh-water eels, cat- 
fish, etc., for example, that require to be stripped of their 
external skins altogether. Fish which are taken from 
ponds, or stagnant waters, often have a muddy taste, which 
exists only in the skin, and in the process of cooking this 
flavor is communicated to the body. To remedy this, they 
ought to be skinned, as they do with cat-fish, bull-heads, 
eels, etc., or by soaking them in salt and water before 
cleaning them for half an hour, then rinsing them with cold 
water. But never leave a good fish one moment in the 



SHELL-FISH. 319 

water after it is thoroughly washed — by this means the 
flavor is often materially injured. 

Preserving fish fresh. — Draw the fish and remove 
the gills, then insert pieces of charcoal in their mouths and 
bellies. If they are to be conveyed any distance, wrap 
each fish up separately in linen cloth, and place them in a 
box with cabbage-leaves above and below them. 

THE FISHEKMAtf's FISHY F. FOET. 

The Comic Times gives the following finished f-fort on the 
fisherman's daughter, Fenella, which fun, fancy, and fame 
will finish and fill up the catalogue of fish. 

" A famous fish-factor found himself father of five flirting 
females — Fanny, Florence, Fernanda, Francesca and Fe- 
nella. The first four were flat-featured, ill-favored, forbid- 
ding-faced, freckled frumps, fretful, flippant, foolish, and 
flounting. Fenella was fine-featured, fresh, fleet-footed 
fairy, frank, free, and full of fun. The fisher failed, and was 
forced by fickle fortune to forego his footman, forfeit his 
forefathers' fine field, and find a forlorn farm-house in a for- 
saken forest. The four fretful females, fond of figuring at 
feasts in feathers and fashionable finery, fumed at their fu- 
gitive father. Forsaken by fulsome, flattering fortune- 
hunters, who followed them when fish flourished, Fenella 
fondled her father, flavored their food, forgot her flattering 
followers, and frolicked in frieze without flounces. The 
father, finding himself forced to forage in foreign parts for 
a fortune, found he could afford a faring to his ^nq fond- 
lings. The first four were fain to foster their frivolity with 
fine frills and fans fit to finish their father's finances. Fe- 
nella, fearful of flooring him, formed a fancy for a full flush 
flower. Fate favored the fish factor for a few days, when 
he fell in with a fog. His faithful filleys faltered and food 
failed. He found himself in front of a fortified fortress. 
Finding it forsaken, and feeling himself feeble and .forlorn 
with fasting, he fed on the fish, flesh, and fowl he found, 



320 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

fricasseed and fried, and, when full, fell flat on the floor. 
Fresh in the forenoon, he forthwith flew to the fruitful fields, 
and, not forgetting Fenella, he filched a fair flower, when a 
foul, frightful, fiendish figure flashed forth. ' Felonious fel- 
low, fingering my flowers ? I'll finish you ! Go, say fare- 
well to your fine, felicitous family, and face me in a. fort- 
night !' The faint-hearted fisher fumed and faltered, and 
was far in his flight. His five daughters flew to fall at his 
feet, and fervently felicitate him. Frantically and fluently 
he unfolded his fate. Fenella forthwith, fortified by filial 
fondness, followed her father's footsteps, and flung her fault- 
less form at the foot of the frightful figure, who forgave her 
father, and fell flat on his face, for he had fervently fallen in 
a fiery fit of love for the fair Fenella. He feasted her till, 
fascinated by his faithfulness, she forgot the ferocity of his 
face, form, and features, and frankly and fondly fixed Friday, 
fifth of February, for the affair to come off. There was 
festivity, fragrance, finery, fireworks, fricasseed frogs, frit- 
ters, fish, flesh, fowl, and fermentry, frontignac flip, and 
fare fit for the fastidious, fruit, fuss, flambeaux, four fat fid- 
dlers and fifers ; and the frightful form of the fortunate and 
frumpish fiend fell from him, and he fell at Fenella' s feet, a 
fair-favored, fine, frank freeman of the forest. Behold the 
fruits of filial affection." 



VEGETABLE PLANTS. 

We have shown the abundance of meats — fish, flesh, and 
fowl — with which our markets teem. If thus bounteously 
supplied from the animal kingdom, we have ample reason 
to rejoice at the plenty afforded to us by the yieldings from 
the vegetable kingdom. By the progress of the science 
brought to bear upon that branch we now term " kitchen- 
gardening," markets are supplied with the asparagenous 
plants, spinaceous plants, edible marine plants, allicaceous 
plants, acetaceous plants, edible fungi, leguminous vegetables, 



VEGETABLES. 321 

esculent roots, the cabbage tribe, sweet herbs, plants used for 
tarts, salads, and pickles, and the native and several of the 
foreign species. 

" Vegetables, as food for mankind, are used in larger pro- 
portions than any other nutritive substances," some of 
which are eaten while young and tender, but when more ad- 
vanced in growth become unfit for use. The leaves and 
stalks of some, and the roots and seeds of others, are used 
for food. 

It is not many years ago when the suburbs — or say twenty 
miles around the City of New York — from Long Island, West- 
chester, and New York counties, and New Jersey, furnished 
the city with a plentiful and cheap supply of vegetables. 
Long Island always bore away the palm for producing the 
earliest and finest vegetables : with the increase of the pop- 
ulation of our city a larger and wider area of land for the 
supply of these articles became requisite, which increased 
the distances from the general marts, whilst greater facili- 
ties to bring these products of the earth to market became 
paramount : from these causes the prices of vegetable-mar- 
keting necessarily became greater. 

Upon Connecticut, Massachusetts, Western New York, 
New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, requisitions were made, and 
now the Southern States, Bermuda Islands, etc., send their 
early supplies to our markets — not only vegetables, but 
fruits, fish, nuts, etc. — for months anticipating our native 
supply. From Charleston, Norfolk, Savannah, and the 
Bermudas, tomatoes, potatoes, peas, cabbage, onions, straw- 
berries, cherries, are brought at least twice a week during 
their seasons. Some of these articles are brought by hun- 
dreds of barrels at a time. 

Early in the spring from the South, and still later from 
the North, many rare vegetables and other edibles are 
brought to market by the facilities afforded by the railcars 
and steamboats, thus inducing, as it were, in these latitudes, 
artificial seasons. But when in their proper seasons, which 
differs but a few days or weeks between the different cities, 

14* 



322 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

from various directions they are daily gathered in vast quan- 
tities ; then dispatched by the numerous railroads, steam- 
boats, sloops, and vehicles of all sorts to their destinations, 
and we find them in the various public markets the next 
morning fresh and good. So great is the competition of mar- 
ket-gardeners, and so immense the demand for vegetables of 
all kinds, that all are sure to meet with a ready sale at remu- 
nerating prices. 

In noticing the following vegetable plants they will be 
found placed in alphabetical order, and under two separate 
heads, as follows : vegetables, and together include pot-herbs 9 
and medicinal plants. 

VEGETABLES. 

Artichoke. — There appears to be two distinct plants of 
this name used as food — the top or head of one kind, and 
the root or tuber of the other. The best variety of the first 
kind, or that preferred here, is called the globe artichoke, al- 
though the conical, oval, large flat, etc., have many friends, 
both here and in Europe. The part eaten is the fleshy por- 
tion of the leaf of the flower or head, before it blooms, which 
forms on the top of the stem. The plant itself much resem- 
bles the thistle. (The whole heads are, however, sometimes 
pickled.) The fleshy leaves are prepared as a salad, or are 
best when stewed or boiled, and are found in season from 
July to November. The French and Italians bend down 
the leaves and stalks, bind them together, then cover them 
with earth to blanch like celery, when it is known as arti- 
choke-char ds. These ara eaten raw in winter, with salt, or 
vinegar, oil, etc., as a salad or substitute for radishes. 

The other species, of which the tuber only is used, is 
called Jerusalem artichoke. The roots, or. tubers, of this 
plant are^much like small, ill-shaped potatoes, which grow 
in clusters of various sizes, forms, and colors, some of which 
are white, yellow, red, and purple skinned ; but I believe 
that all the varieties usually boil watery ; some, however, 



VEGETAL 



stew them afterwards with butter and wine, -w^ 
be found as pleasant-tasted as the real artichoke. 

They are also very good cut up raw into thin slices, with 
•vinegar, etc. They should be taken out of the ground in 
September or October, and preserved in sand for winter 
consumption. 

Asparagus — This is one of the best and choicest lux- 
uries of the vegetable kind, being a wholesome, digestible, 
and a light food. Among the best varieties the green giant 
asparagus is generally preferred, as its young shoots grow 
thick and very tender. I have known it to grow so large 
and fine that the cuttings from sixteen stalks weighed four 
pounds, and many of them, singly, eight inches of tender 
eating. Some prefer the white, others the purple top, but 
neither kind is so sweet or tender as the green giant, grown 
in the light sandy soil near the sea-shore. In boiling the 
shoots, all should be tied up in one bunch, put into the pot 
standing up, so that the water is up about half way ; then 
boiled some ten to fifteen minutes ; then laid on its side, so 
the water covers all, and thus finished, when principally all 
the parts may be eaten. 

The season of asparagus commences, with quite small 
shoots and short bunches from the South, in the month of 
April ; from New Jersey and Long Island in May and June, 
and seldom fit for the table after the close of the latter 
month. On the 17th of May I saw a bunch of green aspar- 
agus, of twenty-four stalks, weigh exactly four pounds, 
raised by Mr. Underhill, of Oyster Bay, and presented to 
Hedden & Sons, Jefferson Market. A month "later, Mr. J. 
B. Mingay, of the same market, showed a white bunch of 
nineteen stalks weighing the same weight. 

Beans. — The varieties of the bean are very numerous, 

although they appear to be divided into but two sorts— the 

garden, runner, or pole bean, and the field, bush, or dwarf 

bean. These are used for the table in two ways: those 

i eaten with the shell or pod are called string or snap beans, 

i while the seeds of the others, called shell-beans, are alone 



_ KET assistant. 

±a, cranberry, kidney, dutch-caseknife, etc., 
jf those I Lave known to be used in and out 
^£ pod, when young and tender. Then, again, 
some ox mese varieties are subdivided into various kinds : 
for instance, the lima is of two varieties, the white and 
green, but are known as the potato lima, Carolina lima, 
common lima, small lima, and so the names go through the 
whole varieties. Among all the shell-beans the lima is con- 
sidered the queen, as the Neapolitan is thought of -the string 
or snap beans ; but all the varieties of the latter should 
break or snap crisply, else they are not in their proper state. 
The potato lima yields, when shelled, almost one-half more 
than the common lima ; it has a short, thick shell, and the 
seed also is much" thicker, usually producing three seeds or 
.beans in a pod. The season commences with the string- 
beans from the South — about the 1st of April — and con- 
tinues, with a succession of new crops, until the middle of 
November. These are followed by the shelled-beans, or 
those to shell, generally about the 1st of May, and continue 
throughout the year, although in the last few months they 
are in a dry, or sometimes found in a soaked state in the 
markets. 

Beets, — There are also many varieties of this plant ; and 
among the best for the table are the turnip- rooted, long- 
blood, long-smooth, early bassano-turnip, etc. There are 
also larger varieties, but these are generally used for feed- 
ing cattle, such as the yellow turnip-rooted, mangel-wurtzel, 
sugar beets, etc. The table beets are numerously used as a 
pickle, in stews, soups, pies, etc., and, when new, their sea- 
son commences about the 1st of June (being brought from 
the South) and continues throughout the year. 

Beet greens, or young t>eets. — The whole of the 
very young plant (top and bottoms) of the early turnip- 
rooted are usually boiled as greens, and are best in the 
months of May and June, when they are very tender and 
excellent. The young tops are also good alone. 

Borecole, or green curled kale.— This fine table- 



VEGETABLES. 325 

vegetable, of which there are several varieties, should be 
well frost-bitten before it is fit for use ; after which the frost 
should be drawn out by placing it in a cool cellar, or in cold 
water. The parts used are the tender tops or crown of the 
plant, with the side sprouts, which should be well boiled, so 
as to be tender before being dressed and eaten. In season 
as soon as the frost takes hold of them, and continues good 
nearly all winter. 

Broccoli.— This excellent plant is a variety of the cauli- 
flower, but considered not quite so delicate in flavor, the 
head or flower of which being somewhat of a purple cast, 
while that of the cauliflower is of a creamy white. How- 
ever, the qualities and varieties of both broccoli and cauli- 
flower have become, by cultivation, so nearly alike— espe- 
cially of the white varieties— that it requires the botanist to 
distinguish between them. Broccoli are in season from 
September to November, and may be kept longer if hung up 
by the roots in a cool place. 

Brussel-sprowts.— This plant is one of the species of 
the cabbage kind, producing in the axils small heads re- 
sembling those of the cabbage on a large stalk. They are 
very tender, and much esteemed by those who use them, 
which is generally in the winter-time, cooked as greens! 
They stand the frost well, are in season from September to 
January, but are not much cultivated here. 

Cabbage.— There are several varieties of this excellent 
plant. The "early York" is a great favorite, and widely 
cultivated, on account of the excellence of its flavor, and its 
early maturity. There is also the "early dutch," "flat dutch," 
which the Dutch commonly slice and call it kohl-slaw, 
or salat, meaning simply cabbage salad ; but the progress 
here has corrupted it to cole or cold slaw. There are also 
other kinds, more particularly used for saur-Jcraut, or sour- 
Tcrout, called the drumhead, Bergen, etc. Another, called 
the " savoy," a curled-leaf cabbage, is by some considered 
the finest of all varieties, it being very tender, of a fine 
flavor, rather a small head, but solid, and generally sold for 



326 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

higher prices than those that are much larger. The red 
cabbage is another variety, and is generally used for pick- 
ling. Young cabbage is found in our markets in May and 
June, when it arrives from the South ; but the season about 
here commences in July, and continues until cold weather ; 
then, if they are put in a good cellar, or properly buried, 
they can be kept almost the whole year. The London 
Chronickj of 1765, gives the following account of a large 
cabbage : " A gentleman of honor and veracity has furnished 
us with the following surprising instance of the fertility of the 
soil and mildness of the climate of the South American prov- 
inces, viz. : He saw, a few days ago, in a gentleman's garden, 
near Savannah, in Georgia, a cabbage-plant, which, having 
stood the winter three years, and seeded annually, rises from 
one root and spreads over a circular form of thirty feet, 
measuring ten feet every way." In the year 1813, in the 
month of October, a cabbage was sold in the New York 
Market, which weighed forty-three pounds. 

Capsicum, or peppers.— See Peppers. 

Cardoons. — This plant is a species of the artichoke, but 
much larger and taller ; the stalk part of the leaf and mid- 
rib, when properly blanched, will be crisp and tender. They 
are used for soups, stews, salads, etc. The Gardener s 
Chronicle says : " When a cardoon is to be cooked, the solid 
stalks of the leaves are to be cut in pieces, about six inches 
long, and boiled like any other vegetable, in pure water (not 
salt and water), till they are tender. They are then to be 
carefully deprived of the slime and strings that will be found 
to cover them ; and, having been thus thoroughly cleansed, 
are to be plunged in cold water, where they must remain 
until they are wanted for the table. They are then taken 
out, and heated with white sauce or marrow. The process 
just described is for the purpose of rendering them white, 
and of depriving them of the bitterness which is peculiar to 
them. If this is neglected the cardoons will be black, not 
white, as well as disagreeable." In season from September 
until Maich. 



VEGETABLES. 327 

Carrots. — There are several varieties of this vegetable, 
of different forms and colors — white, yellow, scarlet, etc. — 
used for the table. They are a very useful root, either in 
soup, stews, haricot, puddings, pies, etc., and are to be 
found nearly or quite throughout the year in our markets. 
The young carrots, which commence the season, are from 
the South, which arrive about the 1st of May ; then from 
Long Island, about the 1st of June, and continue on, with 
new crops, until November, when those intended for the 
table are put in earth or sand for winter and spring use, in 
fact, until the young carrots are again found on sale. 

Cauliflower. — This fine vegetable, of which there are 
several varieties, is one of the luxurious plants which gen- 
erally command a high price. The large, solid, creamy, 
white heads are considered the best. When the leaves are 
much wilted, and the head has dark soft spots through it, 
they are stale and not good. The early kinds appear about 
the 1st of May, and so continue on, in succession of crops, 
until the frost destroys them. Besides plain boiling, they 
are much used for pickling, soups, etc. 

Cavish 5 scavish, or scabious. — This is a common 
field-plant, which, in the early spring months, makes excel- 
lent greens. The young leaves grow in tufts of a longish 
shape, pointed at both ends, of a light green color, but of a 
pleasant taste. The young stalk is also good, both of which 
are soft and mucilaginous. The stalk produces a small yel- 
low flower when in bloom. They will bear considerable 
boiling to be good. 

Celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery. — This tuber- 
ous-looking root has a sweeter taste and stronger odor than 
the common celery, and, when properly cooked, is very ten- 
der and marrow-like. The tops look much like celery, but 
are quite short and green, and are much used in soups, etc. 
The root, however, is large, stout, and quite rough, and 
when sliced and stewed German-fashion, it is excellent. It 
is also boiled, then prepared as a salad. It is found for sal© 
in the fall and winter months. 



328 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Celery. — There are several varieties of this excellent 
plant, of which the white solid, red solid, and the white 
dwarf are now generally preferred. The latter, I think, is 
the sweetest and tenderest in February and March. In 
buying, select the solid, close, clean and white stalks, with 
a large, close heart, as they are apt to be the most crisp 
and sweet ; however, early in the season all celery is a little 
bitter. The season commences about the middle of August, 
and as soon as the frost is found, celery becomes sweeter 
and better. It is found constantly in our markets after- 
wards, until about the 1st of April. 

Chard, or Swiss chard. — This plant is one of the 
best of the beet tribe, but, unlike that vegetable, the root is 
not usually eaten, but the large succulent leaves, which have 
a very solid rib running along the middle. The leafy part, 
being stripped off and boiled, is used as greens ; while 
the midrif, or stalk, are dressed like asparagus ; and when 
they have been properly blanched, by art, they have a pleas- 
ant, sweet taste, and are considered very wholesome. They 
are not much cultivated here, however. 

Chicory, or wild endive. — The part of this plant 
used is the long root, which looks somewhat like salsify, and 
the leaves, when young, can be used as a salad. The root 
has a smell like liquorice, and is principally used in the 
making or mixing with coffee, when the root is properly 
prepared ; that is, by cutting it up in half-inch pieces, then 
dried in the air, after which it is browned in an oven or 
kiln, then ground with either coffee, rye, beans, corn, pota- 
toes, carrots, parsnips, acorns, or other cheap substances, 
when these mixtures are attractively placed before the pub- 
lic, and sold at high prices — often for pure coffee. Chickory 
mixed with either roasted rye or coffee, is considered whole- 
some ; but as it is a cheap article, and when mixed with 
half coffee, should reduce the price to at least one-half — 
with rye, about one-quarter. Either article, however, 
should be purchased separately, then prepared to suit the 
taste, when the purchaser would know what he was using. 



VEGETABLES. 329 

In an examination by commissioners in London, who 
found out of forty-two specimens of coffee, thirty-one to be 
adulterated with chickory only, while twelve had roasted 
corn in addition to chickory ; one had beans, and one had 
potato-flour. The total result was, that one-third of the 
whole weight consisted of adulterants, and in some cases 
chickory was present to the extent of more than one-half. 
" It was found that some of the grocers use a ' coffee col- 
orer,' of a rich brown color : it consists chiefly of burnt 
sugar, and appears to be used to deepen the color of poor 
coffee, or of coffee which has been chicoried. The sellers 
of cups of coffee at a cheap price are said to be very fa- 
miliar with this ' improver.' The commissioners adduce 
some curious examples of the discrepancy between the 
quality and the high-sounding names of particular samples ; 
thus, a packet of ' celebrated Jamaica' was found to be 
nearly all chicory ; ' finest Java coffee' consisted of half 
coffee, much roasted corn, and a little chicory ; ' superb cof- 
fee' was principally chickory and roasted corn, with very 
little coffee ; ' fine plantation Ceylon' was nearly all chick- 
ory ; ' fine Java' contained much chickory and potato ; * de- 
licious drinking coffee' contained a large quantity of chick- 
ory and roasted corn." 

The commissioners also examined thirty-four samples of 
chickory itself, purchased indiscriminately at different 
places, " and amongst them found carrot, parsnip, mangel- 
wurzel, beans, acorns, roasted corn, biscuit-powder, and 
burnt sugar. It had been stated in other quarters that 
such strange substances as burnt rags, red earth, and rope- 
yarn have been found in chickory ; but this belongs to the 
transcendental regions of rascality." 

Cives, chires, or shives. — This plant is a species of 
the leek, with small, awl-shaped leaves, growing in tufts ; 
and these are only fit for use so long as they remain green 
and fresh. They possess a flavor peculiar to the onion 
family, and are principally used for flavoring soups, salads, 
omelets, etc. The Germans also make use of it in their 



330 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

smear-kase, etc. It is in season from April to June, and 
usually found tied in small bunches. Foreigners are its 
principal consumers. 

Colewort, or collards. — This is a kind of small cab- 
bage, cut young and eaten as greens, but it is not much 
used in this country. It is, however, used in England 
throughout the winter, and is in season from August until 
March. 

Corn. — See Indian Corn. 

Corn salad, lamb's lettuce, or fetticus. — This 
plant is principally cultivated as a winter and spring salad, 
and is of a mild, agreeable taste and flavor. The leaves 
should be eaten while young. They are sometimes boiled 
as spinach, etc. 

Cress. — There are several species of this warm and 
pleasant-tasted plant, the shoots of which are much used 
as an early salad. The most common is the water-cress, 
which appears in abundance from March until May, and 
then again from September until November. Another kind 
is called the 

Cfarden-cress, or pepper-grass, which is also eaten 
when young as a salad. It has a pleasant, refreshing, pun- 
gent taste, and may be had during the spring. Another 
species, called 

Winter-cress, or early hedge-cress, which is a 
much larger plant, and is considered a species of the mus- 
tard, is very pungent and biting. The young leaves are 
most of the year used as a salad. There is also another 
species of this plant, called by some 

Indian-cress, or nasturtium. — See Nasturtium. I 
might add another small variety, called 

§inall water-cress, with much the taste of the 
family of cresses. 

Cucumbers. — This vegetable is called a fruit in botany, 
and a cold one it is, although pleasant to the taste of most 
people, yet they are not easily digested, nor is there much 
nourishment in them ; but when pickled, or made into 



VEGETABLES. 331 

pickles, they are then considered less unwholesome. There 
are several varieties found in our markets, among which are 
the early, short and long, prickly, green, white Turkey, etc. 
The quite young or small ones, of various sizes, are used to 
make pickles — in fact, many persons call them pickles when 
asking for them. The very small ones are used for gher- 
kins ; the large, or those nearly full-grown, are hard, and 
commonly used as a salad ; and when they begin to soften 
and turn yellow, or rather ripe, the Germans and others 
prepare them in such a manner as to make some very 
good dishes, among which frying is one of them. Cucum- 
bers begin to show themselves from the South in April, 
from Long Island, etc., about the 20th of June, and so con- 
tinue in our markets until November, after which they are 
found in a cured state, or pickled. Several other species 
of the cucumber have been tried, but with little success, for 
the table. 

Dock, yellow dock, or patience dock. — The 
curly and narrow-leafed dock is much used in the spring 
months as greens. The broad, smooth leaf-dock, known as 
" horse-dock," is considered not fit for use, and some say it 
is poisonous. The former is often found in our markets 
when young, is tender and sweet, and makes a very fail 
dish of greens. The root is much used as a purifier of the 
blood. 

Dandelion. — This well known wild plant, by some 
called " piss-a-bed," is now much cultivated, and is found a 
very wholesome vegetable. Early in the spring — March 
and April — the young leaves are used for salads and greens, 
when it is found slightly bitter, but rather agreeable ; and 
as it increases in size, it becomes full of bitter milk. How- 
ever, by proper cultivation and blanching, it is found to be 
both pleasant and wholesome. The roots are also used, and 
much valued for their medicinal properties. In 1856, Messrs. 
Hills & Stringer, of New York City, introduced " dandelion 
coffee," made of the roots of this plant, which I found a 
very pleasant drink. It was then prepared for the visitors 



332 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

to the Fair of the American Institute, then held in the 
" Crystal Palace." 

Egg"- plant. — This plant is called "guinea-squash" at 
the South. There are several varieties of this excellent 
vegetable, of which the large, purple, oval-shaped kind is 
the best for the table. When cut into thin slices and fried, 
they have the taste of an oyster ; but they should be firm 
and hard, or rather, not ripe. They are much used in other 
dishes, in soups, plain boiled, stews, etc. The white variety 
is much smaller, being about the size and shape of a goose- 
egg, and but seldom used — grown rather for ornament than 
use. The egg-plant is in season from June until October. 

Endive, Or succory. — There are several varieties of 
this plant, of which the curled are found the most numerous. 
The green curled is very crisp and tender ; but the white 
curled is more so, but less hardy, and usually found quite 
scarce. The broad-leaved Batavian — called, by the French, 
scaroll — is much cultivated, but principally used by the 
French and Germans. The leaves (only) are generally used 
in soups, stews, ragouts, roasts, etc., but, when blanched, 
they make a good salad. In season from September until 
March. The roots of endive are also much used in Europe ; 
the Germans prepare them like salsify, and they are also 
dried and ground into powder as a substitute for coffee. 

€rarlic. — This plant is a species of the onion, with an 
acrimonious taste, and a most disagreeable smell. The root 
grows in the shape of bulbs which are enclosed. It is much 
used by the French in a great many dishes for seasoning, 
soups, stews, and other dishes, and has also many medicinal 
qualities. It is in season throughout the year, and usually 
found strung as onions, in ropes or bunches. 

Gherkins, or Jamaica cucumlber. — This small, 
oval, light-green, prickly fruit appears to be a species of the 
cucumber, but more thickly covered with prominent fleshy 
spines or prickles, and usually about the size of a common 
egg-plumb. It is also very full of small seeds, and a round 
stem, three or four inches long, which is firmly attached to 



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VEGETABLES. 833 

the fruit. When cut its smell is like that of a cucumber, 
and its uses are generally for pickling ; but it should be 
pickled before the skin grows tough. It is not much culti- 
vated here, but, when found, it is usually in the months of 
August and September. 

CrOurd, or calabash. — This creeping plant, perhaps, 
ought not to be placed among the table-vegetables ; but, as 
its fruit, when young and tender, can be — and is, sometimes 
— used for pickling like cucumbers ; and also, as this fruit 
grows old, its shell becomes hard, light, and strong, which 
can also be made useful either for water- dippers, substitutes 
for buckets, etc., I concluded it was worthy of space some- 
where in this volume. 

Morse-radish. — This is a common kitchen-plant, the 
roots of which are used ground, or cut into very small pieces 
for salads, sauces, etc. It is, however, boiled by some. 
The tops are also used when young as greens. It is always 
in season. When freshly ground, it has an agreeable pun- 
gent taste, but soon loses it when left open or exposed. 

Indian corn, or maize, — The useful qualities of this 
important plant are very numerous, and easily prepared 
into a variety of forms fit for human food. Before it be- 
comes hard and ripe the ears are fit for roasting or boiling ; 
cut from the cob, and cooked with beans, makes the dish 
called " succotash ;" or it can be dried and kept a long time 
for future uses. When ripe and hard, it is prepared by 
coarse or fine grinding for hominy, samp, mush, johnny cake, 
bread, etc. There are many varieties, of which the siveet- 
corn is considered the best for boiling ; and of this quality 
there are several kinds, caused from peculiar culture, soil, 
and climate. It begins to arrive from the South (Charles- 
ton), about the 1st of June ; then from Philadelphia, say 
from the 10th to the 15th of July; from New York, about 
the 1st of August ; and continues, by a succession of crops, 
to be soft and good until the 15th of October — although I 
have eaten it in a good condition on the 1st of December 
(1855). It was raised on Long Island, near Fort Hamilton, 



334 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



by Mr. Richard Bennett, and sold in the Jefferson and other 
markets. But a few years ago, it was the custom for colored 
women to sit around at the various corners of the market, 
with their pails and tubs of hot-corn, which had been pre- 
viously boiled ; and others, again, perambulating the streets 
half of the night, with the cry of " Hot corn ! hot corn ! hot ! 
just come out of the boiling-pot." 

" The full-eared corn, at every well-known spot, 
Prompts now the vender's cry, ' All hot ! all hot !' " 

It is recorded in the Onondaga Standard (September, 1846), 
that the Onondagas and other Indians have a grand feast 
annually, which they call suckatasJi, or succotash. It states 
that " the great suckatasJi was served up in the big kettle, 
composed of all sorts of vegetables, mixed with corn and 
beans, and seasoned with pork and a great variety of meats. 
It is a luxury highly prized by the Indians as the consum- 
mation of their harvest." 
Kale, green-curled, — See Borecole. 
Kohl rabi, turnip cabbage, or Dutch turnip. 
— This vegetable was formerly known as " Egyptian kale ;" 

is considered sweeter, 
more nutritious and 
solid than either the 
cabbage or white tur- 
nip. On a stem, just 
above the ground, it 
grows or swells out in 
a round, fleshy bulb, 
about the size and form 
of a large turnip, on the 
top of which it sends 
forth its leaves. Among 
the varieties, are the white, green, and purple stemmed — 
the latter usually preferred for winter use, as it can be kept 
sound and good until late in the spring. They are usually 
found in the market about the middle of June, and are best 




Kohl-Babi. 



■VEGETABLES. 335 

for the table when quite young, being then more tender and 
delicate. They may be cooked like the cabbage or turnip, 
and eaten with the same condiments ; or they may be cut in 
half-inch slices to boil ; then change the water once or 
twice, and then serve it up with butter or cream poured 
over it. They should be preserved like a cabbage for 
winter use. 

Lamb's quarter. — This common plant or weed, when 
young, makes early greens, which are much used by country 
people. The leaf is somewhat the form of a lamb's quarter, 
which, no doubt, has given it the name. The root, stalk, 
and leaves have a pinkish color, and, when boiled, are quite 
pleasant tasted. Best in the month of May. 

Leek, or flag onion. — This common plant of the onion 
tribe shows large flag-leaves running up from small, fine 
roots. They are generally found tied in bunches, or one or 
two with a small bunch of parsley, tied up, being a quantity 
sufficient for a soup or stew, etc., for a small family. The 
leeks, when properly blanched, are boiled, and served with 
toasted bread and white sauce, and eaten as asparagus. 
The young leeks are found in August, and continue through- 
out the winter. 

Lentils* — These seeds or beans are not much used or 
grown in this country, but are a favorite food with the 
French and Germans, who consider them nutritious and 
better tasted than the common bean, which they much 
resemble. They are found in a preserved state in some of 
our best grocery stores. 

Lettuce. — This fine tender plant is by many called salad, 
for which it is almost wholly used, and for which it is un- 
rivalled. It is sought after early in the spring, even at high 
prices, which cause many to grow it under glass. There are 
many kinds, each of which is excellent — the early cabbage, 
butter, drumhead, silesia, cos, etc. The hard lettuce raised 
in the open air is generally found in the month of May, but 
most abundant in June and July, and continues throughout 
the year, except at short intervals through the winter. 



336 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Mangel wnrtzel is a variety of the beet, but much 
coarser and larger, although a wholesome vegetable either 
for men or cattle. The leaves, when young, are quite as 
good as the common white or red beet, as well also as the 
thick, fleshy stalks, stripped of the leafy part, peeled or 
scraped, then boiled. 

The Commercial Advertiser, July 25, 1814, through the 
Norfolk Chronicle, quotes the following : " The culture of 
the Mangel Wurzel, or Root of Scarcity, which reaches the 
size of from twelve to twenty pounds, is increasing rapidly 
in this country. This esculent has proved its value and use 
to many, particularly in the late severe weather, in affording 
food for sheep, while the turnips were so long buried in the 
snow. Fifty tons per acre have been obtained of this valu- 
able root, upon good sandy loam, and applied to the pur- 
pose of fattening oxen, sheep, and pigs, and feeding milch 
cows, for which purpose it equals any food whatever." 

Martynia. — This coarse, annual plant shows large 
flowers, which grow into a curved pod, somewhat like a 
cow's horn ; these, when green, and so tender as to allow the 
skin to be easily cut with the thumb-nail, are then fit for 
pickling. When ripe they are so hard and woody as to - be 
useless. They are not much grown here yet, but, no doubt, 
they will become quite plentiful, as they make an excellent 
pickle. 

Milk-weed or milk-vetch. — The young shoots, or 
stalks, when sprouting out of the ground, say some four to 
six inches high, make excellent, tender greens, even after 
the young leaves become detached from the stalk they are 
good. These and the young poke-weed, when sold in the 
markets, are usually tied up like asparagus, in bunches, but 
are shorter and of a lighter color. They are usually found 
best in the month of May, and when grown in the shade are 
more tender and sweet. 

Morel, morill, or mascnl plant, — This vegetable 
is closely related, or is a species of the mushroom, from 
which it is distinguished by the cap, which is hollow within, 



VEGETABLES. 



337 



and adheres to the stem by its base, and latticed on the sur- 
face with irregular sinuations. It grows in moist places to 
the height of about four inches, and should be gathered 
when the plant is perfectly dry. They are found to be rich 
and succulent, when used the same as mushrooms or truffles. 
They are better to dry than the mushrooms, as they do not 
lose their flavor. They are found growing from May to 
September. 

jTlushrooms. — The edible mushroom is considered by 
some as one of the most delicious, as well as one of the 

most dangerous, delicacies of 
our table ; it, therefore, re- 
quires some knowledge to se- 
lect the right or edible kind. 
The young button, as it is some- 
times called, has the top or cap 
quite white, the gills or under 
part are loose, of a light red or 
flesh color, and as it increases 
in size and age, the top changes 
to a chocolate brown color, and 
looks scurvy, when the gills also 
change to a darker red. The 
stem is also white and round, and changes dark with age. 
The button is sometimes found almost of a globular form, 
and when smooth and white it is the best and most savory. 
Every eatable mushroom has a decidedly pleasant odor, 
and is never slimy, while those which are dangerous are of 
a bad odor, or are devoid of or have very little smell. 

The following test, in some occasions, may be found use- 
ful : " Sprinkle salt on the spongy part or gill of the mush- 
room to be tried. If they turn yellow they are poisonous ; 
but if they turn black they are good. Allow the salt to act 
a little time before you decide the color." They are exten- 
sively used for making catsup, stewing, pickles, etc. They 
are in season during September and October, but by artifi- 
cial culture may be had throughout the whole year. 

22 




MUSHROOMS. 



338 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

I found in one of the London papers, of 1817, of the 
rapid and large growth of a mushroom. It was found grow- 
ing in the middle of a blacksmith's fire-place, and measured 
" ten inches long in the stalk, and fire and one-half inches 
in diameter ; it was proved by the root of the plant that it 
had grown there since eight o'clock the preceding evening, 
at which time" the blacksmith left off work. 

Mustard. — The leaves of the young, white, broad-leaved 
kind is best for a mixed salad, or to boil with meat as greens. 
It may be had at any time in a few days, by being sown in 
a box and kept in a warm place. The excellent sauce is 
generally made from the foreign ground seed, which invari- 
ably appears on the table for a well-prepared dinner. The 
seed is used for pickles and medicinal purposes. Black 
mustard is also extensively used here, and is of the same 
flavor as the former ; but I think it stronger. The country 
people prepare this kind for their table use, when but a small 
quantity is required to make the tears come, unwillingly and 
unbidden sometimes. 

Nasturtium or Indian cress. — This plant by many 
is called stirtion, the young leaves of which are excellent in 
salads. The flowers serve as a garnish for dishes of cooked 
meats, while the buds scarcely formed, and the green seed 
(pods or fruit), are preserved in vinegar, which make an ex- 
cellent small pickle (used as the caper) for summer use, and 
should be gathered in the month of August. 

Okra or gumbo. — The green seed pods of this West 
India plant, while young, are very highly esteemed, espe- 
cially at the South, where it is much used, and also consid- 
ered a very wholesome vegetable, as it produces a great 
deal of mucilaginous and nutritious matter. The pods 
should be young and tender. Of the three varieties — the 
long-green, white-ribbed, and the short-green (which has 
smooth, round pods) — the first is considered the best, either 
green or dried. By slicing the pods into narrow rings, and 
drying them on strings, they can be preserved for winter 
use. It is much used in stews, soups, pickles, etc. The 



VEGETABLES. 339 

ripe seed, when of sufficient age and carefully parched, can 
be hardly distinguished, it is said, from genuine coffee. The 
new okra is in season from August until the end of No- 
vember. 

Onions. — This well-known vegetable is used, in many 
various ways, especially in seasoning soups, boiling, and, in 
fact, it is an indispensable vegetable in cookery. Among 
the principal and best varieties are the white, or silver- 
skinned, yellow, and red, and they have also various names 
according to their size, shape, season, and flavor. The very 
small of the white kind are much used for pickling ; the 
larger and other kinds are applied to other and various uses. 

The first new onions are received from the South about 
the 1st of May, usually from the Bermudas, packed in palm 
leaf hampers, holding from a-half to one bushel, which 
onions are large, flat, and red colored, but sweet and excel- 
lent : then they follow from New Orleans, 1st of June, and 
from New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, etc., from the 
15th to the 20th of July. About thirty-five years ago the 
common red onions were principally sold, fastened on a wisp 
of straw about the size of a man's thumb, which were called 
a " string" or " rope of onions," and I have heard them 
called " bunch of onions." These were principally brought 
from the Eastern States. They were tied three or four 
dozen on this rope of straw with twine, by placing the foot 
on one end, which end they commenced to tie on the onions 
closely, round and round, until they reached the height of 
the knee. However, when loosely tied, or the string broken, 
many onions were lost to the purchaser, and sometimes also 
the strings would be quite short, both in number and length ; 
this, however, was soon accounted for by the seller, as hav- 
ing been tied up by a " short girl." In the olden time a 
certain weight was demanded by law, which appears in 1761 
that a bunch, or " rope of onions," " shall weigh at least four 
pounds net weight, under penalty of forty shillings." A 
large onion was sent to the editor of the American Agricul- 



340 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

turist, raised from Mexican seed, grown in Denver, Colo- 
rado, which weighed two pounds. 

Orach, or or ache* — This plant is not much cultivated 
here for the table, but in some parts of Europe the leaves, 
with the tender stalks, are cooked and eaten, in the same 
manner as spinach or young beets, to which it is generally 
preferred ; they have a pleasant, acid taste. The stalk, 
however, must be used while young, or they will be stringy 
and worthless. 

Oyster-plant. — See Salsify, 

Parsley. — I know of but two kinds of this valuable con- 
diment — the double-leaved, or curled, and the plain, or sin- 
gle-leaved. The leaves are used largely in cooking or gar- 
nishing. It is always in season, except at intervals through 
the winter months. The roots are edible boiled as carrots, 
etc., but not much used here. 

Parsnips. — This -wholesome and nourishing root is very 
desirable during the winter and spring months, when other 
vegetation is scarce. Among the best varieties are the 
" large cup" and " long-smooth ;" but those free from side 
roots, being large, heavy, smooth, tender, and sugary, are 
the choice. They are one of the vegetables which the frost 
improves ; good to boil, for soup, making bread, and it is 
said they make a good wine, resembling Madeira. 

Parsnip chervil, or turnip-rooted chervil* — 
This tuberous-rooted plant is yet but little known here. 
In the south of Europe, however, it is spoken of as a valu- 
able esculent root. In form and size it is much like the 
early horn carrot ; skin of a grayish black, and the flesh 
white, with a taste or flavor between the chestnut and po- 
tato, or so I am informed, not having yet tasted or even 
seen the plant. In season in August and September. 

Peas. — This fine vegetable is familiar in the domestic 
cookery of every country, and is here most extensively cul- 
tivated and used when in season. In their proper season, 
over three hundred wagons-load have been counted at one 
of our public markets (Washington), laden with this pleas- 



VEGETABLES. 341 

ant and nourishing food. Among the best varieties are the 
early emperor, Warwick, may, dwarf, Prince Albert, cedo- 
nulli, marrowfat, Japan, sugar, etc., the latter being usually 
cooked in the pods, like string beans, and are truly excel- 
lent ; but the marrowfats are undoubtedly the best for sum- 
mer use. Peas should be always purchased in the pods, 
and those should feel cool and dry. If closely packed they 
have a mashed or wet appearance and a warm feeling, which 
much injures their natural flavor ; and when the shells or 
pods begin to turn to a lighter shade, or look rusty, the pea 
has usually a black spot upon them, and is then found too 
old to be good. But to have them in the greatest perfec- 
tion — if it is possible — they should be cooked immediately 
after being picked. The first new peas received here are 
generally in small quantities and at high prices. They 
come from the Bermudas about the 1st of April, from 
Charleston about the middle of May, from southern New 
Jersey about the 1st of June, from Long Island, etc., gen- 
erally from the 10th to the 15th of June, and so continue 
until September. Large quantities of dry, soaked, and 
split peas are sold throughout the winter season. The Ja- 
pan pea is one of the best varieties ; they, however, should 
be boiled with salt meat to give them a delicious flavor. 

Peppers, or capsicum. — The several varieties mostly 
cultivated here of this hot plant, are the common red and 
green, of the long and round kinds. The pepper pods, 
when ripe, are red. The long red is dried and ground for 
cayenne pepper. The green round pod makes a hot pickle 
mixed with cucumber, as also does the stuffed pickle, or 
mangoes, etc. The small kind, called the bird or cherry 
pepper, is the most acrid of all the varieties. The b,ell pep- 
per is the least pungent. This plant comes plentiful in 
market about the 1st of September. 

Pie plant. — See Rhubarb. 

Pig- weed. — This common plant is much used by some 
country people for early greens, and when gathered in a 
young state — generally in the months of May and June — 



342 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

it is quite good, but somewhat troublesome to prepare. I 
have not seen it on sale in our markets. 

Poke, or poke-weed. — This common plant, when 
young and the shoots are just appearing above the ground 
in the spring (from four to eight inches high), makes a dish 
when boiled, almost equal to asparagus, which it somewhat 
resembles. It is usually found tied in bunches when for 
sale. I have found it more plentiful in the Philadelphia 
market than in any other, a great deal of which is brought 
by the colored people and herb-gatherers. 

Potatoes. — This most excellent edible root is, without 
doubt, the most useful, wholesome, and nutritive of all the 
roots now in use. Scarcely a dinner is prepared without 
having this vegetable on the table. " They furnish flour 
without a mill, and bread without an oven." 

There are many ways of cooking this vegetable, but when 
boiled orroasted, they are the best. They are also used in 
bread-making, starch, and many other ways. They should 
never be used when frozen and thawed, by the action of the 
weather, as they are considered unwholesome and unfit for 
use ; but when in a frozen state, they should be placed in 
cold water, which slowly draws out the frost and renders 
them edible. 

The sooner potatoes are placed in a dark cool place after 
being taken out of the ground, the better they will be both 
for keeping and eating ; but if exposed to light and drying 
wind it will detract from the flavor and otherwise injure 
them. 

Among the best varieties are the Carters, kidneys (black 
and white), mercers, buckeyes, peach-blows, Prince Alberts, 
Western reds, Dikemans, yellow pink-eyes, Jackson-whites, 
rockwhites, northern-whites, Junes, Dovers, etc., etc., etc. 

The Carters (at this period) are considered best for the 
table, and are usually sold at the highest prices. The kid- 
neys or white pink-eyes are not far behind them (once 
thought the best) ; both, of late years, appear not success- 
ful growers, and the Carters especially are subject to the 



VEGETABLES. 343 

rot, as are also the mercers, which have been very success- 
ful above twenty years ; but, for the last four or five years, 
the peach-blow is taking the lead. 

The first new potatoes received in the New York markets 
in the spring are the highly prized Bermudas, in the month 
of April. They are said to be the common Western reds 
grown in the Bermuda soil. Then from the Southern States, 
about the 1st of June, we receive the Charlestons ; about 
the 20th, the Norfolks ; and from New Jersey and Long 
Island, early in July, the early varieties appear, viz., the 
yellow pink-eyes, rock-whites, northern whites, Dovers, etc., 
which are only cultivated for their early growth, as they are 
usually watery and not well-flavored. The old potatoes are, 
at this time, found to be scarce, poor, and not much sought 
after. A great quantity of Nova Scotias are received here 
throughout the winter months, especially when the prices 
are high. 

I find an enormous Bermuda potato noticed, above one 
hundred years ago, in the Weekly Gazette, dated October 3, 
1748, as follows: "This day a potato, of the sort called 
Bermuda potatoes, was brought to this city, being the pro- 
duce of Plumb Island, in this province, which weighed seven 
pounds and a half, is entirely sound and good, and was made 
a present to the printer hereof by one of his customers." 

"Doctor Fuller, of the 'Connecticut Betreat,'" says the 
Hartford Courant, of 1839, " has gathered from one true 
Bohan potato, presented him last spring, and which weighed 
only four ounces, ninety-six pounds Jive ounces. One of the 
potatoes weighed two pounds ten ounces, and the yield being 
four hundred to one." 

Sir Bobert Banks says : " The potato was first introduced 
into England from America, by the colonists sent out by 
Sir "Walter Baleigh, in 1586. In the year 1619, the common 
market price was one shilling (English) per pound." Bowen, 
in his picture of Boston, under date January 1, 1636, says : 
" The ship Bebecca arrived from Bermuda with thirty thou- 
sand pounds of potatoes, which are sold at two pence a 



344 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

pound." For a long time the potato was treated as a fruit, 
baked in pies with spices and wine, or eaten with sugar ; 
and it was many years after, before it was cultivated as a 
field-crop. The date of the introduction of potatoes into 
New England is generally stated as about 1720. In the 
Charleston, S. C, news, New York Journal, etc., July 21, 
1768, it is stated that " Irish potatoes are now produced 
here in so great plenty that we have begun to export them 
to other parts." More interesting history of this vegetable 
is found in the same paper, June 22, 1791, which reads : 
" Potatoes were first known and discovered in America in 
the reign of Queen Elizabeth. John Hawkins first imported 
them into Europe from St. Fee, in Spanish America. For 
the first time, they were planted in Ireland by the brave Sir 
Walter Raleigh, he having, at that time, an estate in that 
kingdom ; but their history was so imperfectly understood, 
that Sir Walter Ealeigh was resolved to renounce the ex- 
pectation of bringing that exotic to any degree of perfection : 
for, in some time after he had planted them, the stalk shot 
forth, and, perceiving balls upon them, he concluded that 
they were the delicious fruit ; but, upon boiling; he found 
them not to be productive of either a pleasing or salubrious 
beverage, whereupon concluded he had lost his labor ; but, 
upon digging up the ground for other purposes, he dis- 
covered, to his great surprise, that the fruit he was in quest 
of lay concealed beneath the earth, which he found to be 
most pleasingly grateful to the taste. Upon experiment, 
it was found that treble the quantity of potatoes could be 
raised from the same parcel of ground than of any other 
exotic. They immediately became the principal food of the 
Irish peasantry, and so remain to this day, being in as high 
esteem among their first European propagators as punlcins 
are in New England. From Ireland they were spread into 
England, where they likewise met a most favorable recep- 
tion, and from whence it has been erroneously asserted that 
potatoes were natives of Ireland, although it is not above 



VEGETABLES. 345 

two hundred and twenty-six years since they were first im- 
ported into that kingdom." 

Sweet potatoes. — There are many varieties, differing 
in size, shape, color, and taste, of this vegetable ; but it is 
seldom that there are more than two kinds found in our 
markets — the red or purple rooted, and the white or yellow 
rooted. The former is mostly cultivated in the Southern 
States, and are much esteemed for their large size, sweet 
flavor, and nutritious qualities. Our climate produces the 
white or yellow rooted in more perfection ; and of this kind 
great quantities are grown in New Jersey, from whence they 
are brought to our markets in their season. They are a 
much lighter food than the common potato. Thirty-five 
years ago sweet potatoes were considered a luxury, and sel- 
dom found on the general table ; then they were also known 
as Carolina potatoes. When eaten raw these potatoes taste 
much like chestnuts, when freshly taken out of the ball or 
bur. The young leaves, and also the tender shoots, are 
sometimes boiled as pot-herbs, and esteemed as a whole- 
some food. They are in season from August until Decem- 
ber, after which they begin to lose their flavor, and, towards 
spring, get quite spongy and poor, without they are care- 
fully preserved in dry, cool cellars. 

In California the sweet potato grows to an immense size. 
The editor of the Sacramento Union says he was presented 
with one that measured two feet three inches in length, and 
weighed five pounds. Another, of the Nashville Gazette, re- 
ceived one which weighed nine pounds. 

Pumpkins. — There are several varieties of this vege- 
table much esteemed, and among the best is the cheese, 
"West India, sugar, striped, etc., which are excellent for the 
famous " pumpkin pies," pumpkin bread, etc. Their season 
commences in September and lasts until January, when 
they generally disappear, although, if kept dry and from the 
frost, they will keep until spring. By cutting them in rings 
or pieces, and plain drying them, they will also keep well. 
Another process of drying them is noticed in the Ohio 



346 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Farmer, who tells us to " cut them up and stew until they 
are soft and dry ; pound and strain through a cullender ; 
then grease pie-pans, and spread it on about a quarter of 
an inch thick, and dry it ; roll it up, and put it away, in a 
tight box or bag, from the insects. Each one of these rolls 
will make a pie." I have tried what was called "pumpkin 
meal" or flour, but it did not give satisfaction. 

In the year 1839, the New Jersey Journal notices "a 
pumpkin raised in a garden in Elizabethtown, which 
weighed, when taken from the vine, one hundred and eighty- 
seven and a half pounds, and measured seven feet in circum- 
ference. There were also raised, in the same patch, six 
other pumpkins, the average weight of all of which exceeded 
one hundred and five pounds." Another, much larger, is 
also noticed as having been raised by S. G. Allen, Esq., 
of Jersey shore, Lycoming County, Pennsylvania, which 
weighed two hundred and thirteen pounds. 

In the Commercial Advertiser, October 19, 1813, Grant 0. 
Thorburn advertises " a pumpkin weighing two hundred and 
twenty-six pounds, and measuring seven feet five inches in 
circumference. It is one of eight pumpkins produced from 
two seeds, whose weights, added together, amount to one 
thousand and seventeen pounds. It was raised on the place 
of D. Gelston, Esq., in the neighborhood of this (New York) 
city. Eight days after, is found, from the Boston Gazette — 
"Extravagances of Nature. — Under this head, the Centinel, of 
the 23d instant, asserted, rather hastily, that ( the Yankee 
land is beat all hollow,' because a pumpkin had been raised 
in New York State, weighing two hundred and twenty-six 
pounds, and a squash weighing one hundred and eighty 
pounds. These productions of nature are no doubt remark- 
able ; but the fact is, the Yankee land is not beat, and, in- 
stead of knocking under, claims the victory ! In proof, I 
beg leave to inform you that there has been raised, in Scar- 
borough, a pumpkin weighing three hundred and five pounds, 
and nine feet in girth. This beats the New York one by 
eighty- one pounds, at least. Further : in Windham, turnips 



VEGETABLES. 347 

have been raised weighing twenty-five pounds^ thirty inches 
in girth, and six inches deep. Further : in Stroudwater, a 
carrot has been raised, twelve inches in girth at the head, 
and three feet four and a half inches in length. Further 
still : in Gorham, an ear of corn, eighteen inches in length, 
containing sixteen rows, and one thousand one hundred and 
twenty kernels of large, sound corn." 

Extraordinary product from two pumpkin-seeds is thus 
noticed in the Commercial Advertiser, October 20, 1818, 
which were planted in May of that year, and " gathered last 
week on the ground of the late Eev. Dr. Blair, Germantown 
(Penn.), when it appeared that the exact weight of the whole 
was fifteen hundred and tiuenty -eight pounds, one of which 
measured six feet four inches in circumference, and weighed 
one hundred and thirty-one pounds. There were several 
others nearly as large. We have heard of no increase in 
any part of the United States which has exceeded this, at 
any time or in any season." In this opinion we also con- 
cur, and think it has never yet been equalled. 

A curious custom prevails in Paris of annually proclaim- 
ing the King of the Pumpkins, " and of making a solemn 
procession in honor of the largest vegetables of the species 
which can be discovered. The ' king' of the present year 
(1855) was grown at St. Maude, and weighed three hundred 
and forty-eight pounds, being a little less than seven feet in 
circumference.' ' 

Purslain or pars I ail e. — This very common plant 
has fleshy, succulent, tender, round leaves, which, when cul- 
tivated, become much better and larger. The whole plant 
is used, or rather it is best to cut the young growth off when 
some five or six inches long. It is good boiled and eaten 
as Spinach (when it is quite slimy), and considered whole- 
some ; it is also used in salad, pickled, etc. 

Radishes. — The cry of " Red-chis" is generally a wel- 
come sound, as a harbinger of summer, being one of the 
first vegetables that grow in the open air and make their 
appearance here in the spring. It is not very nourishing, 



348 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

but rather pleasant, chiefly on account of its spicy, aro- 
matic flavor. Among the best kinds are the long-scarlet, long- 
white, white, red, and yellow turnip, black Spanish, etc., etc. 
The young leaves are sometimes used in salads. Their sea- 
son commences in the month of April, and continues with a 
succession of crops until the appearance of cold weather, 
when the black Spanish and the winter varieties can be 
buried in dry sand for the winter's use, and in fact can be 
kept until the new Badishes are again in the markets. 

Rainpion. — This European plant has not yet become 
much known here, although its character ought to recom- 
mend its common cultivation. The root is long and white, 
resembling the Radish in form ; has a pleasant, nut-like fla- 
vor, and can be eaten raw like the Radish. In the fall and 
winter months it is considered best, when the leaves as well 
as the roots can be cut together for a salad. The whole 
plant is found filled with a milky juice. There is another 
species called 

German rainpion or evening* primrose, which 
is a common plant in this country, growing on the roadsides 
and pastures ; but with cultivation the roots (only part 
used) grow to the length of ten or twelve inches, in form 
like a long carrot, but with a whitish skin on the outside, 
which should be taken off, when its white flesh is fit to be 
eaten in its raw state ; or, if for a salad, it is best quite 
young. If, however, it is full grown it can be cooked as the 
parsnip or shirret, etc. 

Rape. — This plant of the cabbage species, with its fleshy 
stem and leaves, is sometimes used in the same manner as 
spinach, in salads, etc., and much better when touched with 
the frost. It is rather scarce in our markets, at present, 
but it may not continue so. 

Rhubarb or pie-planf . — The stalk of this early and 
highly-esteemed plant is the part used when the leaf has 
grown a sufficient size. This fruit stalk makes wholesome, 
cooling, and delicious tarts, pies, puddings, jellies, preserves, 



VEGETABLES. 349 

wines, etc., resembling those made from apples and goose- 
berries. 

Among the many varieties, the Giant and Victoria are 
generally preferred, as they produce the largest, finest, and 
most succulent stalks, or petioles, which are most sought 
after. In season from April until September. The leaves 
of this plant, boiled as greens, are considered poisonous, 
as they are said to contain a considerable quantity of oxalic 
acid. In the month of May, 1844, the entire family of Mr. 
Havens, of Bedford, New York, was poisoned by means of 
rhubarb leaves boiled as greens. Four of the children came 
near dying. 

Rhubarb dries very well, and will keep good quite as long 
as wanted ; it will shrink a great deal and resemble soft 
wood, but before it is used it should be soaked one night. 

Mr. Bergen, at the "Farmers' Club," N. T., June 6,"l859, 
stated " that he had seen four stalks of this plant weigh 
twenty-eight pounds ! !" 

The editor of the Commercial Advertiser, May 15, 1830, 
thus notices the introduction of this fine plant : " We can 
not forbear mentioning that Mr. William Neale (who kept a 
garden in Fifth-street, a few doors east of the Bowery) has 
a large supply of that choice vegetable, the rhubarb, now 
just coming into use in this country, as an esculent of excel- 
lent properties." 

Salsify, oyster-plant, or vegetable oyster. — 
This fine vegetable has a grassy top and a long, tapering, 
white root, somewhat the form of a carrot, w T hich, when 
cooked, has a flavor much like the oyster. They are also 
sometimes thinly sliced, and, with proper condiments, served 
as a salad. 

The tops, when young, are sometimes used as greens ; 
the root, however, furnishes an excellent dish throughout 
the winter. They are usually found for sale tied up in 
bunches of about a half a dozen roots together. There are 
one or two more species, one of which, called 

Seolymus or Spanish oyster-plant, the roots of 



350 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

which are nearly white, fleshy, long, and tapering, some of 
them from twelve to fifteen inches in length, full of juice of 
a milk-white color. They are cooked in the same manner 
as the preceding root, when their taste is found to be of a 
pleasant and delicate flavor, and considered wholesome. 
Another species of this plant is found, called 

Scorzonera or Mack oyster-plant.— The root of 
this plant is long, tapering, with a grayish-black skin and 
white fleshed, which is tender, sugary, and well-flavored. 
They are cooked as the parsnip, salsify, etc. ; but before 
cooking the rind should be scraped off, and then left in cold 
water for a* few hours, for the purpose of extracting their 
bitter flavor. In season with the salsify, etc. 

Sea-kale. This plant is one of the hardiest of the cab- 
bage tribe, and grows about four feet high. In the fall the 
plant is covered with earth ; in the spring the blanched 
white shoots and stalks, which begin to force themselves 
through this earth, are cut off, from three to six inches. 
These, when properly prepared, cooked, and served, are 
very delicate, sweet, and tender vegetables. The ribs of the 
leaves, when skinned or peeled, are also prepared and eaten 
as asparagus. In season in the spring months. 

Shallot or eschallot. This plant is another of the 
onion tribe, which is sometimes preferred, on account of its 
peculiar flavor. The largest bulbs are best for seasoning 
of soups, stews, salads, in vinegar, etc. In the green state 
it is not used, but in the dry state it may be kept through- 
out the year, About midsummer the new bulbs are found 
in the markets. 

Shepherd sprouts. This ragged-leaved plant is 
among the first that sprouts in the spring, when it makes 
good early greens. It grows somewhat like the dandelion, 
in a tuft or cluster of long leaves, and remains fit for use un- 
til the flower stalk begins to grow, when the leaves become 
tough and bitter. It is one of the plants which lose but 
little of their bulk when boiled. 

Skirret.— This hardy vegetable is cultivated for its ex- 



VEGETABLES. 351 

cellent root, of which is sweet and white-fleshed, haying 
somewhat the taste of parsnip, and is generally cooked in 
the same manner. It is not, however, much esteemed here. 
It is in season in September, and lasts until the approach 
of frost, when it should be preserved in earth or sand. 

Sorrel. — There are several varieties of this plant, known 
under the names of English, French, broad-leaved, blis- 
tered-leaf, round-leaved, heart-shaped or wood-sorrel, etc., 
and also a species called Tuberous-rooted Wood Sorrel. The 
leaves of the former varieties are much esteemed, especially 
by the French and Germans, who think it not only excel- 
lent but very wholesome, especially with those who use 
much salt provisions. It is boiled as spinach, used in sauces, 
salads, soups, and many cooked dishes. The other kind, 
called 

Tuberous-rooted wood sorrel or tuberous- 
rooted oxalis. — The tubers as well as the leaves and 
flowers of this plant are used in various ways. Professor 
Morren says : " The uses of the Oxalis are many. The young 
leaves are dressed like Sorrel in soup, or as a vegetable. 
They haye a fresh and agreeable acid, especially in the 
spring. The flowers are excellent in salad alone, or mixed 
with Corn Salad, Endive, of both kinds, red Cabbage, Beet- 
root, and even with the petals of the Dahlia, which are de- 
licious when thus employed. The roots (or tubers) are 
gently boiled with salt and water, after having been washed 
and slightly peeled. They are then eaten like Asparagus, in 
the Flemish fashion, with melted Butter and the yolk of 
Eggs. They are also served up, like Scorzonera and Endive, 
with white sauce, and form, in whatever way dressed, a ten- 
der, succulent dish, easy to digest, agreeing with the most 
delicate stomach." It is not much cultivated here. 

Spinach or spillage. — This fine, hardy plant is con- 
sidered to be always in season, by a succession of crops, 
the leaves of which are very succulent and wholesome, and 
usually boiled for greens. The best varieties are the broad- 
leaved, savoy, or curled-leaved, and the prickly-leaved. On 



352 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

the 24th of October, 1856, Mr. Joseph Cudlip brought to 
Jefferson Market a head of spinach which weighed two 
pounds and appeared to be quite tender. 

Squash. — The varieties of this vegetable are very nu- 
merous and most extensively cultivated. Among the most 
esteemed are the Boston marrow, Yalparaiso, summer and 
winter crook-necked, yellow butter, acorn, or Turkish cap, 
apple, custard, early bush, etc. The latter is one of the 
earliest, or first ready for use, about the middle of June, the 
yellow butter about the 1st of July, the Boston marrow 
about the 1st of August, and some of the varieties continue 
by proper care to be good until the 1st of January. Ano- 
ther new variety has been lately introduced and spoken 
well of. It is called 

Japan §cg_sia§lt. — This new species here was introduced 
by Commodore M. C. Perry, who brought the seed from 
Japan. It has some the appearance of a large watermelon, 
but much heavier and quite solid. A specimen raised by 
Judge Livingston, was by him presented to the Farmers' 
Club, American Institute, in November, 1858, which weighed 
seventeen pounds ; the seed ordered to be distributed. The 
judge and others spoke highly of it for the table, cooked 
as the egg-plant. One other larger specimen was burnt up 
in the Crystal Palace fire, which took place October 5, 1858. 
There were several very large squashes exhibited at the 
Horticultural Fair of the American Institute held at their 
rooms October, 1866, among which were two of the custard 
/ariety, raised at Clifton, New Jersey, on the farm of James 
Brown, Esq. These splendid squashes were, perhaps, the 
finest and largest of this variety ever raised, and well de- 
served the special premium awarded. Mr. Brown also re- 
ceived, at the same time, another special premium for some 
extraordinary large ears of very excellent white corn, which 
attracted much attention. The Commercial Advertiser, Oc- 
tober 8, 1813, speaks thus of a Mammoth Squash. " There 
was yesterday brought to market a squash which measured 
six feet eleven inches in circumference, and weighed one 



VEGETABLES. 353 

hundred and fifty-two 'pounds. Fifty dollars was offered 
for it." 

Sweet corn. — See Indian Corn. 

Sweet potatoes. — See Potatoes. 

Talta-ruben, or German turnip. — These very 
small species of the turnip appear to have been lately in- 
troduced in onr markets. Those which I saw were about 
the size of the common white radish, but not quite so long, 
having two rows of fine roots growing on their sides from 
top to bottom. The Germans and French purchase them 
principally. They were on sale in the months of October 
and November. 

Tomatoes. — This excellent plant, many years ago 
(1830), went by the name of love-apple altogether, and was 
grown more for ornament than use ; but now it is consid- 
ered a most valuable article of food, containing important 
medicinal properties. Dr. Bennett says " that the tomato 
is one of the most powerful aperients of the liver and other 
organs ; where calomel is indicated, it is probably one of 
the most effective, and the least harmful remedial agent 
known to the profession — that a chemical extract may be 
obtained from it that will supersede the use of calomel in 
the cure of disease — that he has successfully treated diar- 
rhoea with this article alone — that when used as an article of 
diet, it is almost sovereign for dyspepsia and indigestion — 
that it should be constantly used for daily food ; either 
cooked, raw, or in the form of catsup, it is the most healthy 
article now in use." Among the best varieties are the large 
red, or common tomato, smooth red, apple and pear-shaped, 
large and small yellow, fig, cherry, etc. They begin to ar- 
rive from the South in the month of April, and weekly 
grow more plenty ; then from lower New Jersey, Pennsyl- 
vania, in the month of June, and New York along from the 
1st to the 15th of July. Their season ends in November, 
although they are to be had, in sealed packages, fresh and 
good until the next year. 

Truffles. — This species of mushroom, or fungi, is not 

23 



354 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

grown in this country, I believe, although it is often found 
on the tables of our epicures and some of the first-class 
hotels ; brought here by the aid of the steamers from 
Europe. 

The external appearance of the truffle is not at all inviting, 
being almost black, and having rather a rough coat, with a 
warty and ridgy surface, and usually about the size of a 
small egg. The flesh is white and firm, of a close contex- 
ture, and the taste, which is quite savory, resembles that 
of the walnut or almond, and improves all it touches in 
cookery. 

They appear in great abundance in their native place 
during the fall and winter months. Those which are sold 
dried are devoid of flavor, and considered of no use. The 
Morel is the only one of the tribe that will bear drying 
without losing the properties for which it is held in esti- 
mation for food. Truffles are found for sale either in fruit 
stores, large hotels, or some of the eating saloons. 

" Very little has hitherto been written about the truffle" 
says the Horticulturist, " and we look in vain for any ac- 
count of its habitat or methods of propagation in botanical 
works. In scientific treatises it is classed in the ranks of 
the esculent fungi, like the mushroom, and is named the 
' Tuber Cibarium.' * There are few of nature's produc- 
tions,' says an English authority, ' so extraordinary as this 
family of the fungi ; and in no other country than our own 
are there so many varieties of the class to be seen, with 
their curious shapes, their beautiful colors, and their fairy 
rings springing up like magic after a night's rain or a damp 
day.' Unlike the mushroom, this strange fungus is propa- 
gated under the surface of the soil. They are found where 
the soil is black, loamy, mixed with flint, or is composed of 
chalk and clay. They grow close to the roots of large 
trees, and seem to be propagated by the partial decay of 
their long, fibrous roots, and nourished by the drippings from 
their branches. They are found in shrubberies, plantations, 
and woods, and sometimes in banks and ditches, but always 



VEGETABLES. 355 

where trees abound, beneath them or at a little distance 
from their stems. They grow in rings of clusters of six or 
seven round each tree. ' Nor will they flourish beneath 
every kind of tree, but frequent the oak, the lime and cedar, 
and appear especially to love the beech, since wherever that 
tree grows with the richest luxuriance, the truffles are found 
in great abundance and of the best quality.' The usual 
season when truffles are found in England is the month of 
September ; but their appearance depends very much upon 
the state of the weather. In a dry season, the truffle-hunter 
will not look for them before October or November, and un- 
til sufficient rain has fallen for their production. In favor- 
able situations and in damp weather they will grow in a few 
days. They will increase from a quarter to half a pound 
in weight, and, in rainy seasons, they will sometimes reach 
a pound, while they measure from four to six inches in cir- 
cumference. The truffle resembles, externally, a rugged 
knot of an old oak, or a piece of decayed wood. This is 
the large truffle. There is another kind well known to the 
truffler, though ignored in scientific accounts, called the red 
truffle on account of its color, and is of the size of a pea, 
and equal in flavor to the larger kind. This larger truffle, 
when examined through the microscope, is found grained 
with fibrous lines, and is of a firm, tough texture, white in 
color when young, and growing darker until its ripeness is 
shown by becoming entirely black. As the truffle grows 
under ground, there would be some difficulty in finding it 
were it not for the fact that, before it is cooked, it possesses 
a peculiar odor — so powerful and so peculiar that no im- 
position can be practised in its commerce. The raw truf- 
fles, when ripe and fit to eat, possess this pungent and op- 
pressive odor, which will pervade the whole house ; and 
they must be boiled or stewed, when this odor will disap- 
pear. This peculiar perfume is nearly imperceptible to the 
human senses when the fungus is growing beneath the soil ; 
and, for this reason, the truffle-gatherer is assisted in the 
search for them by a peculiar breed of dogs that are trained 



356 THE MAKEET ASSISTANT. 

for this purpose. ' Clever little clogs they are, and trained 
from puppyhood to hunt the truffle out by the nose, and 
then to scratch it up with their long, sharp claws. It is 
curious and interesting to watch the powers of nose pos- 
sessed by these small dogs ; how directly they perceive the 
odor of the hidden truffle ; they rush to the place, straight 
as a dart, even at twenty yards' distance.' ' 

'Euckahoe, or Indian oread, somewhat resembles 
the truffle, but is found in New Jersey, Virginia, etc. Its 
qualifications are not yet much known. The Hon. James 
M. Garnett says : " It has neither root in the ground nor 
stem above, but grows a few inches below the surface, ap- 
parently as unconnected with the soil as a buried cannon- 
ball would be. It is oval in shape, and varies in size from 
that of a goose-egg to that of a man's head. The coat is 
rough, and of a dark-brown color — the inner substance 
very white, similar in texture to that of the yam, and 
of an insipid taste ; when fresh, however, it is somewhat 
acrid. 

In the Commercial Advertiser, August 21, 1816, an article 
taken from the South Carolina Telescope says : " The (name) 
tuckahoe is supposed to be of Indian origin, and has also 
been applied to the truffle, a vegetable that grows entirely 
under ground, and is a favorite dish at many tables." 

Turnips, or turneps. — There are several varieties of 
this common vegetable. Among the best are the early 
white or greentop, yellowstone, cowshorn, red or purple 
top, goldenball, Aberdeen, Euta-baga, or Eussian turnip, 
the last of which (there are several varieties) is excellent for 
winter use. The middle-sized common turnips are the best 
for the table, as the large ones are apt to be spongy. They 
are useful in broths, soups, etc., and more especially with a 
boiled leg of mutton. 

The season of new turnips commences about the 1st of 
June from southern New Jersey, and continues with all the 
varieties throughout the year. 

The editor of the Commercial Advertiser (November 20, 



VEGETABLES. 357 

1832) says : " We have this morning been shown by Mr. 
Grant Thorburn one of the most striking natural curiosities 
that we ever saw. It is a turnip raised in Minden, Conn., 
which resembles a man's hand so closely as to startle the 
beholder as it is unrolled from the paper in which it is 
wrapped. The fingers are nearly perfect ; as also is the 
thumb, save that it is withered a little since it was taken 
from the ground. The fingers are also properly fitted to 
each other, even to the natural crook of the little finger. 
Mr. Thorburn gave five dollars for it." 

VegetaMe marrow. — This vegetable is said to be a 
species of the gourd, but found useful for culinary purposes 
in every stage of its growth. When young, it is cut into 
slices and fried with butter ; when more mature it is cut 
into quarters, stewed in rich gravy, and seasoned to taste. 
It is said to be both wholesome and nutritious. 

Water-cress. — See Cress. 

Yam. — The common yam is an excellent vegetable, 
grown in the Southern States; but some seasons find it 
plentiful in the Northern cities, and sold quite cheap. By 
some it is more highly esteemed than the potato, which it 
nearly resembles. It is much larger, more irregularly 
formed, being of a long flat, and quite darkly colored. They 
usually weigh from one to three pounds each ; but I have 
seen them weigh over twenty pounds. They are in season, 
and generally found here, in the month of September, and 
last until January. Another species of the yam, called 

Japanese yam, or Chinese potato, has been in- 
troduced into our country through the Patent Office, in the 
early part of the year 1855. In the fall of the same year, 
Mr. Boll, a florist, exhibited at the Fair of the American 
Institute several fine roots, which had some the appearance 
of long white sweet 'potatoes. When fully matured and 
plainly cooked — either boiled or roasted — with a little salt, 
its flavor is much like that of the common potato, being quite 
dry and farinaceous. One drawback, however, to its large 
cultivation will be from the great depth it grows into the 
ground. 



358 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 



POT-HERBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER 
PLANTS. 

The pot-herbs, or certain aromatic plants noticed in the 
following pages, are those selected which appear to be the 
most used in seasoning or flavoring other food, whether in 
salad, sauces, stuffings, dressings, or other articles of cook- 
ery ; while those deemed medicinal plants are commonly 
used more or less in every family. 

Alexander s ? or ailisanders. — This plant somewhat 
resembles celery, with a smell of myrrh, and a pleasant 
aromatic taste ; generally used as a pot-herb, or in salads, 
etc., after being properly blanched. It is now seldom cul- 
tivated, as the celery is almost universally preferred. 

Angelica, garden — This plant, many years ago, was 
much used. The stalks were blanched and eaten as celery ; 
but now the stalks and leaves are made into a candied 
sweetmeat by the confectioners, when cut in May. The 
seeds are also used in cordials, and sometimes medicinally. 

Anise-seed. — The seed of this plant is much used in 
confectioners' candies, liquors, etc., medicinally, having an 
aromatic smell and a pleasant warm taste. The green leaves 
are also used for garnishing salads, and seasoning. 

Balm, — This perennial plant has a light aromatic taste, 
and the smell of lemon. The leaves are employed green 
and dried, both as a medicinal and culinary herb. 

Basil. — There appears to be two or three kinds of this 
wild. The first is more generally used for making salads, 
soups, especially mock-turtle. The flavor resembles cloves. 
The common wild is seldom used in cooking. 

Bene plant. — This plant is much used in the South 
for culinary purposes. " The blacks in Georgia boil some 
of the seeds with their allowance of Indian Corn. A few 
leaves, when green, plunged a few times in a tumbler of 



POT-HEEBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 359 

water, make it a thin jelly, without taste or color, which 
children afflicted with the summer-complaint will drink 
freely, and it is said to be the best remedy ever dis- 
covered." An excellent oil is made from the seeds, after it 
has age. 

Birch. — There are several varieties of this plant or tree, 
all of which are found useful, either for cabinet purposes, 
building canoes, paper, etc. The sweet birch juice and buds 
are used in candies, wine, etc., while the twigs are made into 
brooms, etc. (See Birch-brooms, under head of " Dairy and 
Household Products.'") 

Bloodroot. — This plant, in the spring, brings forth a 
beautiful small flower, which rises upon a single stem, and 
enclosed in a single leaf. When the plant is broken, a red 
juice oozes out, which has some the appearance of blood, 
the root of which is used in medicine for coughs, croup, 
fever, etc., and is considered a valuable wild plant. 

Boneset, or thorough wort. — This is a common 
herb, brought by the herb-gatherers to our markets and 
sold principally" for medical purposes. 

Borage. — This annual plant smells somewhat like a 
cucumber. The young leaves, which have a wrinkled, rough, 
hairy appearance, are, with the young shoots, boiled as 
spinach, or prepared as a salad. The seeds are also used. 
The flowers are also used for garnishing. 

Brook- lime. — This plant grows in wet localities, some 
ten to fifteen inches in height. The stem is quite smooth 
and tender, with small fibrous roots growing out at the 
joints. The whole plant can be used as a salad, or the 
same as the water-cress. It is also excellent as a medi- 
cinal plant. 

Burdock. — The long yellow roots of this weed (as the 
farmers call them) are found on the herb-stands, where they 
are principally sold for medical purposes. 

Burnet; or garden fournet. — The parts used of this 
plant are the young oval-formed leaves, which have a warm, 
piquant taste, and, when bruised, they have a smell like 



360 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

cucumbers. They are sometimes used as salad, or in soups, 
etc. The roots are used medicinally. 

Calamus, or sweet flag. — This plant is found in wet 
meadows, the roots of which have a pleasant aromatic 
flavor, and found plentifully for sale, more especially by the 
colored people, on a Sunday morning, at Catherine Market. 
It is used for flavoring and medicinally. 

Capers. — These little buds are much used here, but they 
come to us preserved. I find, from the Patent Office Re- 
port, of 1854, that Mr. H. M. Bry, of Louisiana, has suc- 
ceeded in raising two crops of this kind, equal to any he 
had ever seen in Italy. They are used principally with 
boiled meats. 

Caraway. — This plant is chiefly cultivated for its seed, 
which is generally used in confectionery, distillation, and 
medicine. When young and tender, the under leaves are 
sometimes used in soups. The seed is ripe in the autumn ; 
and the root, when cultivated, is of a sweet, pleasant taste, 
and was formerly boiled and eaten like the parsnip. 

Cat Blip , or catmint. — This plant is gathered green 
while the flowers are out, and often brought in that state 
by the country wagons as a perquisite for the boys. The 
flowers, leaves, and small stalks are much used as a medi- 
cine for young mankind. The cats are also exceedingly fond 
of it, which no doubt gave it its name. 

Chamomile, or camomile. — The flowers of this 
plant are used as a medicine, being very bitter. Extracts 
are also made for medicinal purposes and bitter beers. 

Chervil, or Cicely the sweet. — There are several 
species and varieties of plants under the name of chervil. 
The leaves of all the kinds, however, are generally used 
either in salads, soups, etc. They have all an aromatic 
taste, some quite strong of anise-seed, others, again, of other 
flavors. It is much used among the French and Germans. 
The young leaves can be used as they come up in succes- 
sion through the season. . 

Chickory.— The root of this plant has somewhat the 



POT-HEKBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 361 

appearance of the parsnip and salsify, etc. It is considered 
edible when cooked in the green state, like salsify, endive, 
etc., and, when dried, it is used to adulterate coffee, and also 
in brewing porter. It is rarely found in the green state in 
our markets, but large quantities are sold in the dried. 

Clary. — The leaves of this biennial plant are used in 
flavoring soups, stews, and also in medicated wines, etc. It 
is very good for digestion ; it has somewhat the appearance 
of sage. It is found in the dried state, occasionally, in the 
markets, on the herb-stands. 

Coltsfoot. — The leaves of this plant are principally 
used in colds and pulmonary disorders. They should be 
cut in July and September, then dried in a shaded place. 

CoHilrey. — The root of this rough-leaved perennial 
plant is considered nutritious for man or beast, and the 
leaves are good for cattle. It is only occasionally found 
here for sale. It is also good as a medicine. 

Coriander. — The seeds of this annual plant have a 
pleasant flavor, and much used in confections and medicines. 
Its leaves are also used in soups and salads. 

Cost iiiary, or alecost. — This perennial plant has also 
a pleasant taste as well as smell. The tender parts of the 
plant are used as a pot-herb. The leaves alone are some- 
times used as a salad, or to flavor ale or beer. Fit for use 
in the summer or fall months. 

©ill. — The parts of this plant particularly useful are the 
small, slim, green leaves — which appear somewhat like the 
feathery leaves of the asparagus when fully grown — as also 
the anibels and seeds are much used in pickles, etc. The 
leaves alone are also used in some kinds of soups and by 
some foreigners. The best time to gather this plant is the 
month of July, when it is covered over with the small yel- 
low flowers, and hang it up to dry. 

Elecampane* — The root of this perennial is of a bit- 
ter aromatic taste, which is principally used in medicine ; 
but not much thought of. Found best when not less than 
two years' growth. 



362 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Fennel. — This plant is not yet much cultivated here, 
but it is much used in Europe. Among the several varieties 
most used is the common and siveet fennel; the first is used 
in soups, broths, sauces, pickles, etc., and the young leaves 
make a good salad. The stalks of the siveet fennel are the 
edible part when parboiled or stewed. The odor is usually 
found disagreeable. Generally found in season through 
the months from June to January by successive plantings. 

Hoarhound. — This perennial plant, or the parts used, 
are found on the herb-stands ready prepared for sale. It 
has a bitter aromatic taste, but is made quite pleasant in 
candies, etc. ; is much used for colds. Large quantities are 
gathered and prepared by the Shakers. 

Mops. — The domestic use of the hop, or flower of this 
plant, is pretty well known to almost every country house- 
wife, and the brewer for malt liquors, small beer, ale, porter, 
yeast, poultices, etc. There are several varieties, among 
which are the English cluster, grape, and Pompey hop. The 
young shoots are good for the table, when cut in the spring, 
some five or six inches high. They are eaten as salad, or 
boiled and served as asparagus, which they resemble. The 
flower, or hop, should be gathered in August. 

Hyssop. — This dwarfish perennial has a strong aromatic 
scent, and the leaves and flowers are of a warm, pungent 
taste. The young leafy shoots and flower-spikes are usually 
cut as they are wanted. It somewhat resembles thyme, and 
is used in salads, etc., and also medicinally. They are also 
cut and dried, and used as other pot-herbs. 

Juniper berries. — These small, dark, purple-colored 
berries, about the size of a pea, but ovate in form, are found 
growing on a low, flat-spreading sort of a cedar-bush, and 
are sometimes brought to our market by the herb-gatherers. 
Used principally to give an aromatic flavor to gin, and also 
medicinally. They are also said to be one of the best an- 
tidotes for the rot in sheep — about a half a gill per day, until 
all apprehension is removed. There is another variety 
growing on the common cedar, called 



POT-HEKBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 363 

Cedar berries , but much smaller, which are much 
sought after by robins^ cedar, and other birds, when mi- 
grating in the fall months. When simmered in neat's foot 
oil, makes a good ointment for lame backs, etc. 

Iiavender. — This short, hardy plant, is generally more 
used medicinally than in cookery, and more in the toilette 
than either, as lavender-water, or oil of lavender, and also 
to perfume clothing. 

liicorice, or liquorice. — This useful perennial plant 
is not generally cultivated here ; but its fleshy roots are 
much used in colds, and by some porter-brewers. The 
roots are best when grown several years. 

Lovag'e. — This plant in appearance is somewhat like 
celery, but quite warm and pungent ; sometimes used as a 
pot-herb or a salad. It is, however, medicinally valuable, 
both seeds and roots ; the seeds more especially by the dis- 
tillers for preparing a liquor called lovage, as also by confec- 
tioners. 

]?Iarsh-mallow. — This is an excellent mucilaginous 
herb in making syrup or tea for a cough or colds ; but it 
should be procured by one or from one who is well acquainted 
with the plant. 

Iflarsh marigold (called cowslip in the Eastern States). 
— This is a common swamp or water-plant, which grows 
from eight to ten inches high, with quite a thick stem ; and 
when young the leaves can be used as greens as well as a 
pot-herb. In Europe the flowers are used for flavoring 
soups, stews, etc. 

Marjoram, sweet. — This hardy plant, or rather the 
tops and leaves, are much used both in a green and dry 
state, and is a relishing herb in soups, broths, stuffings, etc. 
The branches are cut in July or August, for drying, before 
the flowers open, for the winter use. 

Mint. — There are several species of this plant, which 
are used in culinary, medical, and other purposes. Those 
most in common use are the spear, or greenmint, peppermint, 
'pennyroyal mint, etc. (See the following.) 



364 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Pennyroyal.- -This common aromatic herb is some- 
times cultivated for making an essential oil, and is also 
used medicinally. Its odor is very annoying to some in- 
sects, especially ticks ; therefore it is useful. It is found 
for sale in cur markets, sometimes in great quantities. 

Peppermint. — This is the plant which is mostly used 
for distillation, in manfacturing the oil of peppermint, of 
which great quantities are used by confectioners, druggists, 
liquor dealers, etc. I have also read of its being used as a 
pot-herb. Another variety, called 

Spear mint, green mint, or common mint, is 
more useful in cookery, in soups, green peas, or mixed with 
salads, or sauce for roasted lamb, and also in preparing a 
drink called mint-julep. The young leaves and tops, of from 
one to six inches in length, are the parts used. As a do- 
mestic medicine it is also popular, and deservedly so. 

Pokeoerries, or pigeon-berries. — Strings of these 
dark-purple juicy berries are occasionally found in our mar- 
kets in their season, which are principally used for dyeing a 
purple color. I have also heard of pies being made of them. 

Rocket, or roquette. — This is an annual plant, indi- 
genous to France, the young leaves of which are used in 
summer in succession as a salad. The flowers have an 
agreeable odor, like those of an orange. But it is not much 
used here. 

Rosemary. — This pleasant aromatic plant is both use- 
ful and some kinds quite ornamental, especially the gold and 
silver-striped varieties. The common, or green-leaved, how- 
ever, is sometimes used for flavoring soups and stewed 
meats, etc. ; also in drinks, as well as in the manufacture of 
Cologne water. Its flowers and stems are also one of the 
ingredients used in making " Hungary "Water," and the 
stems alone as a garnish. 

Rue. — This plant is now but seldom used other than as 
a medicine. It has a strong, bitter taste, also very pungent 
and penetrating, so much so, as to inflame the skin when 
much handled. The ancients used it much in their cookery, 



POT-HERBS, MEDICINAL AND OTHER PLANTS. 365 

both in soups and in vinegar. There are a few yet left who 
use it for cooking purposes. It is seldom found for sale. 

Sage. — There are several varieties of this perennial, of 
which the common green is among the best. It has a strong, 
fragrant smell, and a bitter, warm taste. Its leaves are 
much used in stuffings, sauces, and in various other articles 
of cookery. It is also' remarkable for its medicinal proper - 
ties. Usually found tied in small bunches, green and dried. 

Samphire, or sea fennel. — This plant is but little 
grown here, on account of its difficult cultivation ; but its 
leaves have a pleasant, warm, aromatic flavor. The fleshy 
leaves and young branches are pickled in vinegar, and also 
used in salads as a seasoning. 

Sassafras* — From this small tree is gathered the young 
shoots, which are sometimes used in the place of cikra, when 
that is found scarce. The bark gives an excellent flavor to 
spruce and other home-made beer ; that taken from the 
root is, however, the best and most aromatic. This latter 
is much used as a medicine, or in flavoring candies, or giv- 
ing a pleasant odor to soap, etc. Large quantities are pre- 
pared and sold. 

Savory. — There are two kinds of this plant which are 
used for culinary and medicinal purposes — the summer and 
winter varieties. The aromatic leaves of the latter, as also 
the tops, both green and dried, are much esteemed, and 
used in seasoning peas, beans, dressings, salads, broths, etc. 
It is also found for sale in a dried and pulverized state, 
sealed in packages. 

Southernwood. — This hardy plant produces leaves of 
a bitter, aromatic taste, with rather a pleasant odor. These, 
with the young branches, are employed in medicinal pur- 
poses altogether. 

Spruce, ftlaek or double spruce. — From the 
young twigs of this tree are made the so much used spruce- 
beer in summer ; it is also used medicinally. A great deal 
is brought here by the herb-gatherers. It is also brought 
here in tops and branches as an evergreen ornament. (See 
Christmas Green, under Dairy and Household Products.) 



366 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Nnmach, or smooth sumach. — This is a common 
bush that grows on rocky, barren places ; the small fruit 
grows in clusters, and when ripe (in September) is found of 
a crimson color. They add much to make a pleasant drink, 
especially for the sick. The leaves are much used in tan- 
ning morocco, etc. 

Tansey. — Large bunches of this peculiar-flavored plant, 
or rather its leaves, are found on the herb-stands ; which I 
now find is principally used as a medical tonic. Formerly 
it was used in many culinary preparations. It is found best 
in the spring months, when it is young and green. 

Tarragon, or dragon's wort. — This plant, or rather 
the leaves and young tops, are frequently used in salads, 
soups, pickles, etc. They are of a hot and biting charac- 
ter, and when put in vinegar (tarragon vinegar), it is highly 
esteemed as a fish-sauce. They are usually ready for use 
in the fall months. 

Thyme (common and lemon). — This sweet little 
shrub has an agreeable smell, with a warm, pungent taste, 
the leaves and tops of which are much used in stuffings, 
soups, sauces, etc. Of the two kinds, the broad-leaved and 
narrotv-leaved, the former is generally preferred. It is gath- 
ered green in the fall, then dried, and is so found for sale in 
our markets tied up in small bunches. 

Wormwood, or common wormwood. — This 
plant is one of the bitter perennials, with a strong aromatic 
odor. Its leaves and tops are sometimes used to flavor cor- 
dials, and medicinally. 

FRUITS. 

" They are gold in the morning, silver at noon, and lead at night." 

Fruits, although riot absolutely necessary as articles of 
food, or even nutriment, with but few exceptions, yet, from 
their very peculiarity and seasons and rarity, comparing 
them with other productions, they have become a necessity 
to man, in all climes, whether in the civilized or savage 



FEUITS. 367 

state ; they are his luxury, nay, his dessert, whether partaken 
of from the prolific hand of nature, or forced by man's hot- 
house ingenuity ; whether eaten at the rich man's table, or 
munched by the laborer on the roadside ; whether dealt out 
to the million, or picked from the gutter by the ragged 
urchin. Fruit is man's luxury under all circumstances — his 
dessert. Apart from the general taste for fruits, " in their 
seasons" and " out of their seasons," an inward voice — which 
we call craying — demands these gifts of a beneficent Provi- 
dence for certain ends to the physical welfare of man. They 
are not only nutritious, but they are also medicinal in their 
properties. They produce certain beneficial changes in the 
blood (which medical men term " alterative"), which alters 
the blood from an unhealthy to its healthy condition ; con- 
sequently, by the use of ripe fruits, many diseases lurking 
in the system are either neutralized or removed. Many 
fruits have the peculiar medicinal property of "cooling" the 
blood as it is termed, or in other words, rendering it less 
liable to feverish or inflammable excitement. In European 
countries, where the vast multitudes of populations actually 
encumber the limited space upon which they exist, fruits, 
although largely cultivated, rarely fall to the lot of many 
millions of beings cabined, cribbed and penned in the 
numerous large cities and towns. Even to the wealthy, 
fruits are a luxury — a dessert. To the poor they are a 
Tantalus : few live under their own " fig-trees ;" and. where 
fig-trees grow, they are dealt out to those who neither work 
nor delve. May we not attribute very many diseases affect- 
ing the pent-up, impoverished artisans and laborers of all 
large towns? In the United States, happily, the people 
have an opportunity to seek and to obtain a portion of 
God's favors to man ; and although fruits are not sufficiently 
plentiful to supply the wants of all, yet fruit, to a certain 
extent, may be obtained by the poorest of city populations. 
It is worthy of remark that, notwithstanding the lavish 
liberality of many of our housekeepers, with their willingness 
to pay the largest prices for the best productions of our 



368 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

markets, we find few fruits offered for sale of first-class pro- 
duction. Surely the fifty to one hundred per cent, higher 
prices paid for the very few superior cultivated and perfected 
fruits found and sold in the markets, would be an all-sufficient 
premium to induce the fruit-grower to devote his attention to 
procure the choicest varieties of different kinds of fruit. 

Fruit in perfection should be full sized, sound, ripe, fresh, 
and of the best varieties ; and, when most plentiful, they pos- 
sess the best and highest flavor. When not intended for 
culinary purposes, the earlier in the day they are eaten the 
better, as they will be found the most invigorating stimulus 
for other food. 

With wondrous adaptation to man's convenience and en- 
joyment, one delicious fruit succeeds another : thus, when 
strawberries and currants begin to fail, raspberries and 
cherries are ready, succeeded by blackberries and whortle- 
berries ; then comes the sweet, juicy, beautiful peach, the 
nectarine, and plum, followed by the luscious grape, the 
mellow pear, and the crisp-snapping apple, in all their 
various sorts and sizes, which continue on, and we never 
tire of them. 

" The luscious peach, the blooming nectarine, 
Among the precious fruits of earth are seen. 
Fruitful Pomona supplies the busy mart, 
And suits man's palate, whether sweet or tart." 

On the use of unripe fruits, the Journal of Health thus sets 
forth : " It is very pretty to talk of fruits as the gift of 
nature, which, as meant for man's refreshment, cannot, we 
are told, be injurious. But people ought to define what 
they mean by fruit. If it be the matured production of a 
tree or shrub, in which the saccharine matter is properly 
evolved and distributed through the pulpy matter, which 
has itself lost its early tenacity ; in other words, if it be ripe 
fruit they mean, we can see no objections to moderate eat- 
ing of it. But if they libel the worship of Pomona to such 
a degree as to call early green apples and pears, little 
shrivelled peaches, water-melons without a particle of sac- 



FEUITS. 369 

charine juice in them, plums as hard as bullets, fit offerings 
at her shrine, and suitable food for either a rustic or a civic 
population, why then we would condemn the immature 
dietists to eat what they recommend. As well might we in- 
sist on the consumption of darnel because it grows with 
nutritious grain, or of ergot because it is part of the rye, as 
talk of such vile trash as half of the fruit which is hawked 
about being fit food for any animals except swine, and they 
will give many an extra turn after a meal of it." And then, 
again — "Be it remembered that the eating of ripe fruit does 
not imply the necessity of swallowing the skin and stone 
or seed, as many are in the fashion of doing. Certain it is — to 
say nothing of the labor to which the poor stomach is put 
on the occasion — nature never intended those parts of the 
fruit to be eaten : the one is an external covering for the 
purpose of protecting the nutritious part proper, the other 
for perpetuating the plant." 

The numerous varieties of fruits cultivated and wild, 
foreign and domestic, received here and sold in our markets, 
show the necessity, as well as the importance, of their being 
perfectly cultivated. The several fruits will be found in 
their order, alphabetically arranged. 

Apples. — This excellent, healthy, and useful fruit is 
found usually in great abundance in our markets through- 
out the year. We have the early or summer apples from 
the South sometimes as early as the months of May and 
June ; one month later, we obtain them from our own dis- 
trict ; and, still later, they are brought to us from further 
north ; and the same supplies of apples apply to the fall and 
winter varieties. 

Apples for summer. — We have the white-juneating 
early harvest, early strawberry, golden sweeting, yellow 
bough, summer pippins, pearmains, rose, belle-flower, red 
astracan, beswick, codlin, etc. 

Fall or autumn. — From the month of September 
until December, fall pippins, autumn pearmain, strawberry, 
St. Lawrence, sweet swaar, porter, seek-no-further, Jersey- 

24 



370 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

sweet, spice-sweet, pound-sweet, maiden-blush, Gravenstein, 
Hawlej, or Dowse, etc. 

Winter and spring 1 . — From the month of October 
until March, Ehode Island greenings, Newtown or winter 
pippins, Spitzenbergs, pearmains, baldwins, Yandeveres, 
swaars, talman-sweets, winter-sweets, golden russets, etc. 
Sometimes the Newtown pippins, Wagner's northern spy, 
Roxbury russets, etc., are found on sale through the month 
of June. The Newtown pippin, no doubt, ranks highest for 
all general purposes. Biker says it was first cultivated in 
an orchard near Newtown by one of the Moore family. 

The Rhode Island greening is a very tender, rich, early 
apple, but late in the season it loses flavor, and becomes 
soft and insipid. It is said that it takes its name from the 
cognomen of the gentleman on whose land it was found. 
The fruit was first found — says Furman — in Ehode Island, 
a short distance from Newport, near an inn kept by Mr. 
Green ; hence it was called the Green inn apple. A slight 
change, however, has come over the old appellation, which 
is now simply " Greening." 

The Spitzenberg and Baldwin are fine table-apples ; but 
I might name fifty varieties, and each would have as many 
admirers as being the best. 

The kind of apples principally used for preserving or or- 
nament, are the red Siberian crab, large Siberian crab, 
yellow Siberian crab, large yellow , or Hagloe crab, lady 
apples, etc. These beautiful crabs and lady apples are 
usually found in the month of September, the latter generally 
in November, and some of the varieties will keep until May. 

"When wanted for preserves, they should be used before 
growing mealy, as in that state they cook like sauce. 

The numerous and various uses for apples of various 
kinds are almost as many as the fruit itself. They are pre- 
pared for drying, apple -sauce, apple-butter, cider, pies, 
tarts, jelhes, fritters, dumplings, stewing, baking, the des- 
sert, etc. Large quantities of dried apples, apple-sauce, 
apple-butter, and cider are prepared and made by the 



FKUITS. 371 

Shakers and others ; which are usually found on sale in 
the fall and winter months. 

Among the largest apples I ever saw, one was shown at 
the American Institute Fair, held in September, 1860, which 
measured eighteen inches in circumference, and weighed 
three and a half pounds. It was of the kind called Gloria 
Mundi. 

Apricots. — This fine smooth-skin fruit is among our 
earliest kinds, but never appears very plentiful, in conse- 
quence of which it is sold usually at high prices. In flavor 
it resembles the peach more than any other fruit — not quite 
so juicy, but tender, well-flavored, and highly esteemed. 
When not fully ripe, they make excellent tarts, preserves, 
pastries, marmalades, jellies, jam, etc. Among the best va- 
rieties are the breda, moorpark, peach, early golden, purple 
or black apricot, etc. They ripen generally before the 
peach, either in July or August, according to the season. 

Bananas. — This delicious, wholesome, and nourishing 
Southern fruit grows and appears here in bunches. They 
grow separately on a stout twig or branch, in a spiral form, 
to the number of from twenty to sixty in a bunch. They 
appear in our markets in the month of March, both the red 
and yellow varieties. The former is considered the best, 
but it is found to be of the shortest season, as it is scarcely 
ever found for sale after the 20th of July, while the yellow 
variety continues on until the 1st of October. 

Bojianas differ some from the plantain, being much shorter, 
rounder, more mellow, and can be eaten raw, sometimes 
roasted in fritters, preserves or marmalades, and pies ; and 
the fermented juice makes an excellent wine. It resembles 
fruit in its nature, very much like a luscious pear more than 
any thing else, and hence my reason for calling it fruit. 

Large quantities are brought from the West Indies, prin- 
cipally from Baracoa, on the island of Cuba, and other 
Southern countries. 

Barberries, berberries, or pepperidge-bush 
berries. — This little crimson fruit grows in clusters, and 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

so found on sale ; is seldom eaten fresh on account of tart- 
ness, but principally used in pickles, jellies, sweetmeats, 
soups, garnishing, and cooling drinks, etc. They grow on a 
prickly or thorny shrub, and ripen in September and Octo- 
ber. Sometimes they are quite plentiful in our markets. 
The leaves of this fruit are eaten for a salad, and taste some- 
what like sorrel. 

Beach plum, or sand plum. — These small purple, 
and sometimes crimson, fruit are found on or near the sea- 
beach on Long Island, or in sandy fields near the salt water. 
When ripe, the fruit is somewhat astringent, but rather 
agreeably so, and is thus found in September. 

Bilberries. — These small purplish -red fruit are some- 
what the appearance of the tvhortleberries, but generally 
smaller. They, however, grow upon a good-sized tree, like 
in form of the apple or horse-chestnut, and the leaves pointed 
like those of the birch. Whortleberries of the smaller kind are 
sometimes called bilberries, but they differ in taste, the latter 
being of a much richer tart in flavor. They are found quite 
plentiful north and east of New York ; usually ripen in the 
latter part of x4.ugust or first of September. 

Blackberries. — There are several varieties of this 
fine, wholesome fruit, among which the Lawton, Kittatinny, 
"Wilsou's early, Dorchester, etc., are considered the choicest 
kinds. The Lawton, however, is the largest and finest 
which cultivation has yet produced. The Wilson's early 
ripens from five to ten days earlier than either of the other 
varieties, but the Dorchester soon follows it, being a much 
sweeter and finer-flavored fruit, somewhat like the orange. 
Perhaps, however, the first to ripen are the running black- 
berries, or dewberries, which in certain localities grow very 
large and fine, on a creeping ground-vine ; and, especially 
when exposed to the sun, they become sweet and excellent. 
The common hio-bush blackberry is the poorest kind, being 
small, round, irregular in shape, of a reddish-black, and 
rather a tartish taste. Another variety, called the thornless 
blackberry, is a fine-looking berry and pleasant-tasted, but 



FRUITS. 373 

very scarce. The name given to this variety is in conse- 
quence of the bush being nearly or quite thornless. 

Blackberries commence to ripen about the 10th of July, 
and continue until the 1st of September, although I have 
seen the Lawtons in the market until the 1st of October ; 
but the fruit was rather flat-tasted, or had lost its rich fla- 
vor. To have these berries in perfection, they should be 
ripe enough, that when the bush is shaken those which drop 
will be found just about as good as you can have them. 
They also make excellent wine, syrup, puddings, etc. Many 
are also found dried on sale. The root of the bush makes an 
excellent decoction for summer complaint. The wliite-fruited 
variety seems to be grown more for novelty than for use. 

Black gum berries, sour gum berries, tupelo, 
or pepperidge-berries. — These small, blue, oval ber- 
ries, with large pits, are found growing on large trees. Of 
a sour taste, until the frost has taken hold of them, when 
they become ripe, and with an agreeable, tartish flavor. 
Their taste is so pleasant that I should think they could be 
used in jellies, tarts, etc. They are generally found grow- 
ing two together on a thin twig, and might be properly 
called twin-berries. When a boy I knew them to be called 
Drams in Westchester County, N. Y. 

U u ffh lo - berry. — See JShepardia. 

Cherries. — These are some of the first delicious sum- 
mer fruits, which are always grateful and acceptable, es- 
pecially at the dessert, and are much improved in their fla- 
vor by placing them in ice an hour or two before serving 
them up. The first of this fruit which we receive are gen- 
erally from Norfolk, etc., from about the 10th to the 15th 
May, and so continue till near the month of August. 
Among the many varieties which appear in our markets are 
the White-hearts, May-Dukes, Black-hearts, Dikemans, 
Black-mazzards, Black-tartarian, Black-Eagle, Honey, Ox- 
hearts, Kentish, or common sour cherry, etc., with the small 
wild cherries. A great many of the sweet varieties are 
used for the dessert, and in a canned state ; for improving the 



374 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 






flavor of brandies, used in the dried state, etc. The Kent- 
ish, or common sour, is much used in pies, tarts, preserves, 
puddings, etc. 

Citron.— This fruit is of the lemon species, but larger 
warted and ribbed, or furrowed. Its thick, fragrant rind is 
generally found here in a preserved state ; this and the pulp, 
which is subacid, are used in confectionery, sweetmeats, 
plum-puddings, preserves, etc. The best of this fruit comes 
from Leghorn, Nice, etc. 

Cranberries. — This berry is pretty well known for 
the fine tarts, pies, and jellies it makes. Of this there are 
several varieties, but only two that are at present extensive- 
ly cultivated or found in our markets, which are the cherry 
and the bell cranberries, the former being the prettiest and 
that most sought after, and looks much like that fruit, after 
which it is named. The Bell Cranberry is oval, somewhat 
like an Egg. The cultivated fruit are the largest, most per- 
fect, and of the best flavor. The season for the fresh fruit 
commences about the 1st of September and continues until 
April. In Southern New Jersey many are left on the vines 
all winter, or until the snow and ice admit of their being 
gathered. These are usually quite ripe, sweet, and of a 
dark color. In February, 1865, they sold at wholesale for 
forty dollars per barrel. 

The American Cranberry is found growing in a wild state 
in the Eastern, Middle, and Western States, and produces 
large crops without cultivation. It is said that this fine 
fruit was first noticed by the botanists who accompanied 
Captain Cook, in 1778, who found it growing spontaneously 
on the northwest coast of America and about Hudson Bay. 
It was taken to England, and for many years cultivated in 
the garden of Sir Joseph Banks as a curiosity. In 1813 he 
produced, from a bed eighteen feet square, three and a half 
Winchester bushels of cranberries, being at the rate of four 
hundred and sixty bushels to the acre. 

Captain Henry Hall, of Barnstable, Massachusetts, is no- 
ticed as having cultivated this fruit almost fifty years ago, 



FEUITS. 375 

(1866), with perfect success. The Eastern States have the 
credit of preparing them for the market in the most cleanly 
and best manner, so that they arrive in our markets looking 
fresh, plump, and sound. 

Currants. — This useful, wholesome, and cooling fruit 
is much used in its green and ripe state for many purposes 
and preparations. The green currants are much sought af- 
ter, just before they begin to color, or grow red, for pies, 
tarts, stews, to can, etc. They are generally in market 
about the first of June, and grow ripe in July, when they 
will hang on the bushes, especially if covered, until Septem- 
ber, and are used for jellies, etc. A very pleasant drink is 
also made from them. Among the best varieties are the 
Cherry, Red, and White-dutch, White grape, Black Naples, etc. 
The Black currant is a different species, not having the same 
flavor as the common currants, but a flat and strong taste, 
and are the best for jam, jelly, etc., when made for the sick. 

Dried currants. — These are usually sold in our fine 
groceries, and when plenty, at the markets. They are pre- 
pared in foreign countries, and are best from the Levant 
and Grecian Islands. The new dried fruit arrives here in 
the months of December and January. There are a few of 
the common currants dried in this country, but are not much 
sought after, 

Custard apple. — See Pawpaw. 

Dates. — This is a fruit of a palm-tree, of an oval drupe 
form, somewhat like the acom, and of a yellow color ; the 
pulp is soft, sweet, of a vinous flavor, and encloses a large 
oblong stone or kernel. They are found here in a preserved 
state, pressed into a sort of matting called trails, and when 
sold by retail they are cut or broken in lumps. They are 
usually sold by the pound. The fresh fruit arrives here in 
the months of January, February, and March. The first 
cultivation of the Bate in North America, says Furman, was 
made in the summer of 1826, by Dr. Grant, of St. Simon's 
Island, in Georgia, successfully. 

Dewberries. — See Blackberries, 



376 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

Elderberries. — These small, black berries are pleasant- 
tasted, when ripe, and are brought to our markets to be 
used for various purposes. They make the Elder-paste, for 
the sick, which is considered excellent, Elderberry wine, a 
wholesome and agreeable beverage, sometimes used for 
making pies, etc., and when gathered while in flower make 
the Elder Flower Tea, etc. The bark also makes an excel- 
lent ointment ; in fact, the whole plant is much used in 
medicine. The berries are in season in the months of 
August and September. 

Fig's. — The fresh, ripe Fig has an insipid, sweet taste, are 
considered nutritive and wholesome, and when a person be- 
comes accustomed to eating them they are usually fond of 
them. In this climate it requires some artificial assistance 
to bring them into a ripe and perfect state, although I have 
read of two crops being produced annually. It is usually 
ripe in August. (I, however, have eaten them ripe in July.) 
Preserved figs are found here quite plentiful, brought from 
foreign climes, They are considered best when fresh 
brought here, in the months of December and January, after 
which they will bear close examination, especially those 
which are " hawked around" are apt to be wormy and are 
often spoiled. 

Fox grapes or wild grapes. — This fruit is found 
very plentiful in their season, or when in a green and in the 
ripe state. The green grapes appear about the 15th to the 
20th of August, when they are used for pies, preserves, etc., 
then about the 20th of September they are found ripe and 
changed to a dark blue color. They are very round and 
soft, with rather a pleasant tart taste, but a little foxy, and 
last until November. (See under head of Grapes.) 

Goose berries. — There appears to be many varieties of 
this fruit, but I do not deem it necessary to name only the 
different colors as they are found in our markets. The red, 
yellow, green, white, and those of a medium size, free from 
rust, are generally found the best. They first appear from 
the South in May, and continue until the 1st of August. 



FRUITS. 377 

They make excellent tarts, pies, sauces, preserves, goose- 
berry wine, etc. 

&raiiaclilla or May-apple. — This fine fruit is known 
at the South as the Granadilla, where it grows in the great- 
est perfection, generally about the size of an Apple, and 
larger, with a sweet, yellow pulp. I have never seen it in 
our markets, but am told it is found sometimes in the Phil- 
adelphia markets, more especially in the Southern cities, 
where it is used as a dessert. 

Crrapes. — There are several species of the native, hardy 
grape, of which the Isabella is the most popular. The Ca- 
tawba ranks very high, as also the Concord, Diana, Clinton, 
etc., all of which are favorites. There are also several new 
varieties, among which are the Eebecca, Delaware, etc., 
which promise well. Grapes commence the season about 
the 1st of September, and last until November, and when 
properly kept, a month or two later. They are principally 
used for the dessert, preserves, jellies, or to can. 

It is interesting to know that at least three of the best va- 
rieties were cultivated by ladies. The Isabella Grape, which 
thrives best and is most productive in the neighborhood of 
New York and other places, was introduced by George 
Gibbs, Esq., of Brooklyn, Long Island, from North Carolina, 
about the year 1814. His wife, Mrs. Isabella Gibbs, who 
took a prominent part in its further cultivation, was compli- 
mented by having her first name given to this fine, large 
blue grape. The Diana Grape also took its name from Mrs. 
Diana Crehore, Massachusetts, and the Rebecca from Mrs. 
Eebecca Peake, of Hudson, N. T. The origin of the Clinton 
Grape is also worthy of notice, as found from Professor 
North's statement (see Journal of the N. Y. S. A. Society, 
vol. 7, 1864), who says : "The Clinton Grape was so named 
from our village, and originated in the horticultural amuse- 
ment of a student at Hamilton College. The original Clin- 
ton Grape-vine is growing over a tall elm on the east side of 
Dr. Curtis's house, on College Hill. It was planted there 
in 1821 forty-three years ago, by Hugh White, of Cohoes, 



378 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

then a junior in college. Having a fondness for gardening 
and tree culture, he planted a quantity of grape-seed two 
years before in his father's garden, in Whitesboro'. Out of 
the many hundreds that came up, Mr. "White selected one 
that looked more promising than the others, and planted it 
east of the house of Dr. Noyes, with whom he then boarded. 
This seedling vine proved to be a rampant grower and won- 
derfully productive ; with bunches long, compact, quite uni- 
form, with berries small, a very dark purple when full}* ripe, 
quite palatable early in September, yet improved in flavor 
by the frost. As a grape for making wines and jellies, the 
Clinton is quite a favorite in latitudes where the Catawba 
will not ripen." 

We have also the luscious foreign grapes in perfection, by 
the assistance of the hot and cold graperies, from April un- 
til December, among which are the Black Prince, Black 
Hamburgh, White Muscat, White Sweet-water, Tokay, etc. 
The Syrian (a white species) produces the largest clusters. 
Those raised by artificial culture are sold sometimes at very 
high prices, varying from fifty cents to three dollars per 
pound, and are usually found at the large confectioneries 
and saloons. The White Malaga, of foreign growth, is found 
at our large fruit and grocery stores. 

Grape-fruit or forbidden fruit. — This is a species 
of the orange, but of a bitter and tart flavor. The inside 
skin, which surrounds the fleshy cells, is of a disagreeable 
bitter. They have much the appearance of the shaddock, 
but smaller. In season usually with the Orange, and not 
much adinired. 

Crroimd cherry — See Vegetable Cherry. 

Honey bean or sweet locust-fruit —The fruit or 
pod is flat, crooked, and long, of a reddish brown color, and 
full of hard seeds, enveloped in a sweet, pulpy substance, 
much like honey, when it is ripe, but becomes sour after a 
frost. In my boyhood I have travelled miles to get " honey 
beans." 

June berries, wild service berries, or iTIay 



FKUITS. 379 

cherries. — These are a small, pear-shaped, purplish, red- 
colored fruit, about the size of large Bilberries, of a sweet, 
pleasant taste, when ripe. They grow on a bush or small 
tree, usually from six to ten feet high, and ripen in the 
month of June, when they continue about one month. 
Birds are very fond of them. 

Lemons. — This is one of the most common of the foreign 
fruits, principally used in cooling summer drinks, and for 
various culinary as well as medicinal purposes. The rind 
or peel is also used in flavoring a variety of dishes, and also 
in preserves. They are almost always to be obtained. 
Fresh fruit, both of this and the following, arrive in the 
winter from the West Indies, and in the spring from the 
Mediterranean islands. 

Limes. — This fruit is a small species of the lemon, of a 
paler color, thinner skin, and the taste of a bitter acid, 
although quite cooling. The green fruit is much esteemed 
for its preserving qualities, but is seldom to be found here. 
It is usually more scarce than the lemon. 

Ulandrake, May-apple, raccoon-berry, or wild 
lemon. — This fruit is a stranger in our markets, and only 
occasionally found among our citizens ; and, no doubt, if it 
was esteemed at all, it would be cultivated and become more 
plentiful. It is found growing in many parts of our North- 
ern States, more particularly on new-cleared lands. It grows 
singly, and seldom two are found on a stalk ; with much of 
the appearance of an egg-plumb, and with a sickish sweet 
taste. It ripens in September and lasts until frost. There 
is another peculiar-looking fruit, which, some forty years 
ago, became known to me, and, in fact, to many boys of my 
acquaintance, as the May-o.pple. However, afterwards, I 
found it generally known as pinhster-apple, and hog-app>le. 
It was not at all like an apple either in form or flavor, being 
in shape irregular, without pits or seed, of a light green 
color, sometimes nearly white, and juicy without a pleasant 
flavor. It grows on a small bush, and ripens in May and 
June. I have often gathered them on the grounds now 



380 THE MARKET ASSISTANT 

occupied by that beautiful place known as the Central 
Park. 

Medlar. — This fruit is quite round, and about as large 
as a plum, though some varieties are as large as an apple. 
The pulp is thick, and contains five wrinkled stones ; but 
they are not much esteemed until they have been touched 
severely with the frost. The large Dutch medlar is of the best 
quality. They are, however, but very seldom seen here. 

Melons. — It is said that there are but two species of this 
fruit — at least, that we cultivate successfully : the rough or 
embroidered coated is called the mush-melon, and those with 
a smooth thick skin are called ivater-melons. These are 
divided into many varieties. From the mush-melon are the 
nutmegs, citron, cantaloup, pineapple, etc. Of these, the citron 
is most valued for its sweetness, richness, and high flavor. 
They appear from the South— usually from Charleston and 
Savannah — about the 1st of August. The nutmeg is pre- 
ferred by most people for its high musky flavor and large 
size, and the skin appears as if covered with a net, ribbed 
or crossed like the nutmeg spice. They are in season a 
short time previous to the former, and are found more 
numerous. The cantaloup is the first ripe mush-melon, but 
it is not so much cultivated as the two former. It, however, 
enjoys a sweet and pleasant flavor. The mush-melon appears 
not to have been generally cultivated around New York, prior 
to 1818, as we find, in the Commercial Advertiser, August 
28th, of that year, the following in relation to this fact : 

" $fush-melons.— The cultivation of this fragrant fruit has 
long been a disgrace to the New York market. Although 
every care has been repeatedly taken to distribute seeds of 
the best species, such repeated carelessness has always 
attended every effort to improve the breeds, that we had 
almost abandoned every hope that our market would rival 
Philadelphia in the production of this exquisite fruit. We 
are indebted, however, to Mr. Aaron E. Jones, from that 
quarter, for having supplied us, most abundantly, this sea- 
son with mush-melons of the first quality, and of the most 



FRUITS. 381 

delicious flavor, and at very reasonable prices. He has, by 
experiment, convinced our horticulturists that good melons 
are as easily cultivated as bad. This is the second year which 
has amply, we trust, rewarded this enterprising person. 
Last year he commenced his experiment at Hoboken ; but 
the present season he removed to Guanos, Long Island, a 
kindlier, earlier soil. The following calculations, founded 
on inquiry and pretty accurate estimates, will show the re- 
ward he is likely to reap from his enterprise. 

" Mr. Jones has cultivated eight acres of land with mush- 
melons solely. He planted sixteen thousand hills, which will 
certainly yield for market three melons per hill, is forty- 
eight thousand melons. These forty-eight thousand melons 
will probably average ten cents per melon, is four thou- 
sand eight hundred dollars, which gives a product of six 
hundred dollars per acre. Allowing one half for the ex- 
penses of manure, culture, and bringing to market, will 
leave a net profit of two thousand four hundred dollars — 
equal to three hundred dollars per acre. 

" This instance of successful enterprise is held up as an 
incentive to gardeners and farmers in the vicinity of this 
city to follow this profitable example. Instead of the toil 
and trouble attending the cultivation and bringing to mar- 
ket boat-loads of unpalatable fruit, how much more pro- 
ductive will it be to cultivate from the choicest seeds, un- 
mingled with any other inferior qualities, and thus secure 
a certain profit !" 

Among the best varieties of the ivater-melon are the 
Spanish mountain sweet, orange, Carolina, apple-pie, citron 
water-melon, etc. The Spanish variety is certainly one of 
the best, being very sweet, rich, and excellent. The skin is 
of a dark green, and slightly marbled rind, moderately 
thick, with a red, solid flesh. This variety is extensively culti- 
vated on Long Island, New Jersey, etc. 

The orange water-melon is of a round shape, and of a 
smaller size, and, when ripe, must be cut through the skin 
like an orange, and the rind taken off without breaking the 



382 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

pulp, then divided by cutting between the lobes, when it 
will be found delicious eating. The Carolina icater-melons 
are very good here when fresh, and are found here in the 
latter part of July. The citron icater-melon ripens late, and 
is quite small and round, with a very thick skin or rind, and 
generally used for preserves.. 

Apple-pie water-melon. — This Japan species of melon is 
but lately introduced here, and appears, with the aid of a 
little lemon-juice, to make excellent apple-pie, or one that 
you cannot hardly tell the difference. It will keep quite 
well all winter. 

To judge water-melons, when ripe and fit to eat, they 
should, when pressing them between the hands and knees, 
make a sort of cracking noise, and, when knocked on by the 
knuckles, will emit a sort of hollow sound, but never by their 
great weight. It, however, requires practice to judge them 
properly. 

The common use of melons, some one hundred and fifty 
years ago, is referred to in the following extract from Sir 
John Chardin's Travels in Persia, in 1720 : " Melons, in the 
common season, which lasts full four months, are the daily 
food and sustenance of the poorer sort of people. They live 
upon nothing but melons and cucumbers, the last of which 
they eat without paring them. There are some that will 
eat five and thirty pounds of melon at a meal, without mak- 
ing themselves sick. During these four months they come 
in such vast quantities to Ispahan, that I can't help believ- 
ing that they eat more there in a day than they do in France 
in a month. The streets are full of horses and asses that 
are loaded with them, from midnight till morning, and all 
the day till sunset." 

Hullierries. — There are several varieties of this excel- 
lent and wholesome fruit. The red, black, and white are 
the only varieties with which I am acquainted. The best of 
these is the red, being full of seeds and having an agree- 
able acid, sugary taste. The black is larger, more sugary, 



FRUITS. 383 

or rather more of a sickening sweet after several of them 
have been eaten, but are best when not too ripe. 

The white is smaller than either, with also a taste similar 
to that of the black. These I have gathered and eaten from 
the trees along the walks to the Elysian Fields at Hoboken, 
N. J., about the year 1830. Usually ripe on the 1st of 
August. 

Nectarines. — This fine-flavored fruit very much resem- 
bles the peach, except in the smoothness of skin and firm- 
ness of flesh. But few of them, however, find their way into 
our markets, and it requires much trouble and care to pro- 
duce good crops. Among the choice varieties are the early 
violet, French white, late yellow, etc. They begin to ripen 
about the 1st of August, and continue good until October. 

Olives. — This foreign fruit is found here in a preserved 
or pickled state, although they are cultivated at the South, 
in Louisiana, South Carolina, etc., and said to fully ripen. 
It is, however, not a very profitable crop. They are used 
hare principally by foreigners. The oil made from this fruit 
is the common sweet or olive oil, so much valued in salads, 
cookery, etc. 

Oranges. — There are several varieties of this most ex- 
cellent and refreshing fruit. The largest and best are from 
St. Augustine, and sell at the highest prices. The Havanas 
are equal in flavor, but have a thick and rough rind, and 
the pulp of either is very juicy and delicious. The Maltese 
have also a very thick and spongy skin, and the pulp is quite 
red, and sometimes without juice. The Sicilian fruit are 
smaller, with a thin skin and a sour taste, but usually most 
abundant and cheap. Ripe oranges are a wholesome hand 
or table fruit, while the green are used for preserves and 
confectionery. The rind and pulp are also used in cookery, 
as well as the flowers for perfumery. The West India 
oranges are found here from October until April, and those 
from the Mediterranean, in boxes, from January until May, 
after which periods they lose flavor and become dry and 
spongy. Another variety, called the Utter orange or Seville, 



384 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

is not much used here, the pulp being quite bitter, sour, and 
sharp, and the rind of a very pungent nature. It is only 
valued for marmalade, candy, etc. 

Partridge-berries, or nanny -berries. — These 

little black berries grow in clusters, on a tree-like bush, on 
uncultivated grounds or along hedges. When fully ripe, they 
have an insipid, dry, sweet taste, and a large pit. They are 
edible, what there is of them, and birds are very fond of 
them. Found ripe in September, and continue on the 
bushes until winter sets in. I have never seen them on 
sale in our markets, but have eaten quarts while hunting. 

Paw-paW} or custard apple. — This fruit is found 
plentiful in the Southern and "Western States, and appears 
somewhat, in form and color, like a small cucumber when 
ripe. Its pulp is rather too luscious to be agreeable, al- 
though palatable to some, having a flavor like custard, of 
a saffron color, and quite full of hard seeds, which look like 
those from the ivater-melon, but larger. It is said to be best 
when touched by the frost, and many persons like them best 
when boiled in the green state. They usually ripen about 
the middle of September. Judge Law, of Evansville, In- 
diana, says " that having met at the house of a friend where 
there was some paw-paw brandy, the distiller remarked that 
the patv-paiv, which is indigenous to our bottom-lands, 
yields more spirit to the bushel than any other fruit, and 
that he has contracted for one thousand bushels to distil 
the coming season (1859). A bushel of the fruit will yield 
two gallons of the spirits." They ripen in the month of 
August. 

Peaches. — This is one of the most tempting and lus- 
cious fruits in the catalogue, having a great many varieties, 
although generally known under two principal names — the 
freestones and clingstones. Among the best variety of the 
first is the early York, Crawford early, rare-ripes, Morris 
whites, melocoton, honest John, etc. Of the varieties of 
clingstones are the lemon cling, orange cling, white heath, 
Oldmixon late heath, blood cling, etc. Peaches first make 



FEUITS. 385 

their appearance from Bermuda about the 25th of April, in 
small numbers and at high prices ; from the Southern 
States the latter end of June and first of July, and from 
lower New Jersey (a few unripe ones) about the 20th of 
July ; but they do not appear in large quantities, or in a 
ripe state, save from the 10th to the 20th of August, when 
they commence to be plenty, and continue so until the 20th 
of September, when they gradually decrease with the large 
hard winter peaches until November, after which they are 
found in the dried state. Their principal use is for dessert, 
many for preserves in various ways, in brandies, etc. 

We have previously noticed Mr. Aaron R. Jones, who 
started a new life in the cultivation of fine mush-melons in the 
year 1818. He afterwards, says the Commercial Advertiser, 
August 26, 1826, " directed his attention to a new field of 
industry, having purchased a handsome tract of land in 
Shrewsbury, N. J. About three years since (1822) he set 
out a peach orchard of twenty acres, it is understood, which 
this year (1824) has begun to requite his care and attention. 
Jones' peaches are the order of the day — and most excellent 
they are in size and flavor — and are now selling from two 
to three cents each, and from fifty to seventy-five cents a 
half a peck." 

Pears. — There are many varieties of this excellent fruit, 
and but few of the very choice kinds are seldom found plen- 
tiful in our markets, and those few command high and pay- 
ing prices to the producers. Among the choice summer 
pears are the Bartlett, summer Doyenne, Madelaine, sugar 
pears, Bloodgood, Brandywine, small harvest pear, etc. 
The autumn pears are the Duchess d'Angouleme, Bartlett, 
Virgalieu, or white Doyenne, Sheldon, gray Doyenne, Seckel, 
Buffam, Flemish beauty, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Wash- 
ington, Bell, etc. Winter pears are the winter Nellis, pound, 
Columbia, Yicar of Wakefield, Lawrence, Easter Beurre, etc. 

The first pears begin to show themselves in June, and 
sometimes earlier, but seldom ever good. The best are re- 
ceived in August, September, and October for the dessert, 

. 25 



386 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

of which the Duchess d'Angouleme, Bartlett, and Virgalieu 
stand first ; the former has been known to have sold at one 
dollar each, and often from three to six dollars a dozen. 
Many kinds are used for baking, stewing, preserving, etc., 
and a drink called Perry is also made of them. Several of 
the winter varieties will keep well through the winter, and 
last until April. 

The origin of the Seckel pear is thus noticed by " the 
venerable Bishop White (in the Philadelphia Gazette, 1835), 
whose memory is remarkable for its strength and correct- 
ness." He says " that when he was a boy, about seventy 
years ago, there was a Ueeder in this city known by the 
name of Dutch Jacob, who was a great sportsman. At a 
certain season of the year he was known by his neighbors 
and others to bring home from his excursions very delicious 
pears, but he would never tell anybody where he procured 
them. 

" About that period the London Land Company, which 
owned some land below the city, made a sale, and Dutch 
Jacob purchased the lot upon which his pear-tree stood. It 
afterwards became the property of Mr. Seckel, and now be- 
longs to the estate of the late Mr. Girarcl. The Seckel 
pear is now known all over the United States." 

Persimmon or American medlar. — This fruit 
seems to be a species of the Plum, when ripe, somewhat the 
color of an Orange ; others, again, are red, and some quite 
black. The fruit is not fit to eat until it has felt the frost, 
which somewhat shrivels the skin and makes it tender, lus- 
cious, and quite sweet, but a little puckerish. In the settle- 
ment of Virginia, Captain John Smith called this fruit the 
PutcJiamins, when he says : " We daily feasted with good 
bread, Virginia pease, pumpions, and Putchamins," and " if it 
be not ripe, it will draw a man's mouth awry with much tor- 
ment. If ripe, it is as delicious as an Apricot." The ripe 
fruit are about as large and much shaped like a Date, and 
grow on trees, in bunches. Cultivation has much enlarged 
and otherwise improved the fruit as well as the tree, which 



FRUITS. 387 

is ornamental and worthy to be placed in every lawn, the 
foliage being rich and beautiful, and the bearing trees, when 
loaded with ripe fruit, present an admirable appearance. 

Persimmons are found in our markets in October, arid if 
very ripe they appear broken and mashed. They make an 
excellent syrup and good table-beer ; whiskey is also manu- 
factured from them. 

Pine .apples. — This excellent-flavored fruit is found in 
our markets quite plentiful in their season, which com- 
mences about the 1st of April and lasts until September. 
They are known here under two general names, or kinds : 
the birds-eye and the sugar-loaf ; the first is considered best 
for eating out of hand, the latter for preserving in different 
ways. They certainly have a delicious flavor, but they usu- 
ally disappoint the palate, by having so much wood and 
fibrous substance to swallow along with it. They are 
brought from Havana, Nassau, Matanzas, etc. Their usual 
weight is from two to five pounds. 

Pine ivy. — See Wintergreen berries. 

Plantains. — This is an invaluable tropical fruit, and is 
used by many of the West Indians for bread. It grows in 
smaller bunches or spikes than the bananas, each one be- 
ing from eight to twelve inches long and about three in di- 
ameter, somewhat the form of a cucumber, but pointed at 
both ends. The flesh is firm, solid, and nutritious, and may 
be prepared for the table, either in a green or ripe state, 
for tarts, sweetmeats, and confectionery, and it is also good 
for roasting, frying, broiling, or even when boiled, with salt 
meat or fish. It is found in season from February to Sep- 
tember. 

Plums* — Among the varieties of this fine fruit stands 
the green gage, which ripens about the middle of August 
and lasts until October. Then there is the Washington, the 
Jefferson, white and purple Damsons, the white, red, blue, 
and frost gage, the purple and yellow egg, magnum bonum, 
apricot, common blue, or horse plum, etc. They are used 
for the dessert, preserves, etc., and are generally found in 



i 
388 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

our markets from the latter end of July until the middle of 
October. 

Wild plums. — There are several varieties, and differ- 
ent sizes, colors, and tastes of this fruit, some of which are 
red, yellow, and purple color, with tastes of sweet, tartish, 
and sour, and again some quite hard and almost uneatable. 
Several varieties of the best kinds have been, introduced into 
the States of New York, Connecticut, and New Jersey, and 
successfully grown, producing crops as regular as any other 
fruit-crop. I have often seen a fine, cherry-looking fruit in 
our markets, which was called Illinois Cherry, about the 
size of large red or sour cherries, without the stem. The 
skin was quite tough, while the flesh appeared tender, with 
rather a tart taste and a slight touch of bitterness ; the pit, 
however, was a regular plum pit. I understand they grow 
wild in some of our neighboring States, but when cultivated 
they are much improved in size and flavor. They are used 
and make very good tarts, sweetmeats, etc. In season 
about the middle of September, and last until November. 

Pomegranates. — This fine-looking fruit is brought here 
from the Southern States, but not in large quantities, as it 
is not much thought of. It is about as large as a good- 
sized apple, having some of the appearance of a smooth 
apple-gmVice, but with a red cheek, full of seeds and divided 
into sections. When it becomes ripe there is a soft, juicy, 
agreeable acid pulp around the seeds : the rind and inside 
partition is hard, tough, and highly astringent. Ripens gen- 
erally in September and October. It makes an excellent 
medicinal syrup, either for fever or inflammations. 

Prickly pear or Indian fig - — This little fruit I 
have never seen in our markets, but have often gathered and 
eaten them. The fruit is in the form of a fig, or long little 
pear, very troublesome to handle, being full of little, yellow, 
prickly spines, which should be brushed off before handling 
or gathering, and when ripe they come off readily. Its pulp 
is subacid and palatable (with the taste of a fig), and of a 
red and purple color. It is found on .thin, dry soil, on the 



FRUITS. 389 

top of rocky surfaces, growing in tufts on a few thick, fleshy 
leaves. 

Prunes. — This is one of the foreign varieties of the 
plum, dried or preserved ; a fine, wholesome fruit when fresh. 
Those from Turkey are generally the best, but there is a 
great deal of difference in the quality ; if they are heated or 
sweat on their passage, they become candied, with a whitish 
appearance, which impairs their quality. The best are put 
up in glass jars, boxes, and other small packages. Those 
in baskets or casks are considered not so fine. A free use 
of them will be found beneficial as a medicine. The fresh 
arrivals are generally from December to May. 

Quince. — This beautiful fruit is never eaten without 
being cooked in some fashion or another, when it is much 
esteemed for its fine flavor. For marmalade, preserves, jel- 
lies, sauces, stews, syrups, tarts, wine, etc., and also medi- 
cinally, it is everywhere valued. Among the several varie- 
ties are the apple-g^mce, pear-gmwce, Portugal, etc. The 
apple, or orange quince is the most popular, as it is the most 
tender and excellent-flavored ; the Portugal is quite scarce, 
but is considered as good as the first, and the pear-gzmiee is 
usually the most perfect, but quite hard and tough, although 
the flavor is equal if not superior. Select the smooth large 
ones, as they are the most tender and perfect, and not so 
full of waste. The small knotty ones are tough, worm-eaten, 
and wasteful. This fruit is in season in October, and lasts 
until December. 

Mrs. B. "Willis, in Orange (N. J.), produced a Quince in 
1844, which weighed one pound five ounces, and measured 
fourteen inches, being in a plump and perfect state. 

Raisins. — This foreign-prepared fruit are grapes dried 
either in the sun or the oven. The Malaga, or muscatel, is 
the largest and best for the table. The sultana, without 
seed, the Smyrna, etc., etc., principally used in pies, pud- 
dings, etc. They are found the best in boxes, also in kegs, 
etc., sold in the best groceries, fruit-stores, and when plenty 
are in our markets. They are in season throughout the 



390 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

year, but best from December to June, when they are 
fresh. 

Raspberries* — This is an excellent and- pleasant-fla- 
vored fruit for the dessert, especially the choice qualities, 
among which are the red and the yellow, or white, Antwerp, 
Franconia, FastolfF, etc., which ripen from the 5th to the 
10th of July— the common red a little earlier. The black 
cap, or common black Raspberry, is the wild fruit found 
along the hedges and fences, which have a very rich acid 
flavor. They ripen later and last about six weeks. Favor- 
able seasons Raspberries are found in our markets early in 
June, and often as late as the 10th of August. Many uses 
are made of this berry — in preserves, jams, ices, tarts, syr- 
ups, vinegar, wine, etc. 

Shaddock. — This tropical fruit is like a large, coarse 
orange, with a very little of that fruit's flavor, and a good 
deal of stringent bitter, especially when any portion of the 
skin, or parts of the division which separate the fleshy pulp, 
are eaten. Therefore, for a hand fruit, it is not of much 
value ; but for preserves, it, no doubt, is good. I am, how- 
ever, told that when it has fully ripened on the tree, its 
juices are saccharine and subacid, and those which are heavy 
and soft are usually found the best. 

Sloes. — This is a species of the ivild plum, but smaller, 
more solid, and much better when ripe. It is occasionally 
seen here, and found in abundance in the Western States, 
where it is used for pies, preserves, etc. In season from 
September to November. 

Shepardia, or Buffalo berry. — This fruit is of the 
size and appearance of a large currant, of a red or scarlet 
color, and grows in clusters, with a rich taste ; used princi- 
pally for, and makes excellent preserves. 

Strawberries. — There is no kind of fruit more delect- 
able to the sense of taste than the strawberry ; and there 
are few more agreeable to the sight when fully ripe, large, 
and fresh taken from the stem. There are several varieties 
of this fruit brought usually in great abundance into our 



FRUITS. 391 

markets ; those, however, which first appear are found 
placed in the smallest baskets that the article of wood can 
very well be formed into, and these generally bring the 
highest prices. Among the earliest and best varieties are 
the Early scarlet, Hovey seedlings, McAvoy's superior, 
Burr's pines, Scotch runners, Black Prince, Boston pines, 
etc. From the South they appear in small quantities about 
the 1st of April, and so continue for about one month, daily 
increasing, so that by the 1st of June New Jersey lays them 
on our tables in abundance ; and daily after that period the 
neighboring counties pour them into our (New York) city 
by thousands and tens of thousands of baskets, boxes, 
bowls, etc. They, however, begin to fail about the 25th of 
June, and generally disappear by the 10th of July. The 
use of this fruit is various, but principally used for the des- 
sert, ices, syrups, preserved in cans, etc. 

" About tL. r 1800," says Furman in his Notes, " gar- 
den strawbei v ere first introduced into the New York 
markets. Belon that there was none except a few wild 
strawberries which were brought in by women from Tappan 
and New Jersey. The person who has the honor of having 
first gratified the New Yorkers with the taste of this most 
delicious fruit in its cultivated state, was Robert Debevoise, 
of Brooklyn, who cultivated a strip of land between Samuel 
Jackson and H. B. Pierpont, Esq. (lying between Fulton- 
street, the East Biver, and immediately north of Pierpont- 
street). His price was then two shillings for a pint bowl of 
them. He refused to sell any of his plants, and thus kept the 
run of the market alone for about three years, and thereby 
made a great deal of money. After that he gave old John 
V. Swartcope, also of Brooklyn, some of the plants, and 
in a short time he also came in for his share of the profits." 

There were occasionally a few large strawberries produced 
at an early period, one of which is thus noticed : " A straw- 
berry raised this season in the garden of Mr. J. Wooston, of 
Wilmington, Delaware, measured three inches and three-quar- 
ters in circumference, and weighed one hundred and sixty- 



392 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

one grains." {Commercial Advertiser, June 14, 1816.) Of 
late years we have much improved in the size, but I think 
not much in flavor. 

Tallow-berries, or ground-berries. — These small 
red berries are found growing on a small, tender vine resting 
on the ground, in the cleared woods ; and when eaten, they 
have a sort of sweetish, tallowy taste, but rather pleasant. 
Found ripe in November, but seldom in our markets. 

Tamarinds. — This fruit, or rather pod, is found here 
in a preserved state in our grocery and fruit stores. It is 
generally used without preparation as an article, of food, 
and occasionally as a medicine. William M. Singleton, 
Esq., of Winchester (Va.), has succeeded in raising tamarind- 
trees which bore fruit, in 1854, of a quality equal to that im- 
ported. The best are cured with sugar, and are known as 
the sugar tamarinds. Another kind is also cured with mo- 
lasses, and known as the common molasses tamarinds, or 
West India tamarinds. This fruit is in season all the year 
round, but is best in the months of May and June. 

Thorn-apples, or haws, — These small red fruit are 
usually found about the size of a cherry, but in form and 
appearance of miniature apples, quite filled with seeds, which 
render them almost worthless. Some varieties, however, 
have some flesh on them, and they can be used in preserves, 
etc. Found ripe in August and September. 

Vegetable cherry, ground cherry, raspberry 
tomato, or strawberry tomato. — These small fruit 
grow on a straggling-looking weed or plant, and are found cov- 
ered with a bladdery husk. When ripe they are usually of 
a purplish red, and others again quite yellow, but all have 
an agreeable acid flavor. Dr. James Knight, chairman of 
the Horticultural Society, writes to me : " There has been 
some new varieties introduced and cultivated for the fruit, 
as some people consider them quite palatable, and call 
them the raspberry tomato, as they possess somewhat the 
flavor. Some again call them the straivberry tomato. Among 
the new varieties a much larger sort has been introduced* 



FKUITS. 393 

called vegetable gooseberry, having the taste of a ripe goose- 
berry." This kind, however, I have not yet seen. I have 
eaten several kinds, and found some quite sweet and others 
again of a subacid flavor. Ripen in September about the 
locality of New York. I kept some of them with the husk 
on over five months, when they were perfectly dried. 

Whortleberries, huckleberries, or blueber- 
ries. — There are several varieties of this prolific fruit 
known, among which those growing on the high bushes are 
usually preferred. The best variety is called the swamp 
huckleberry, or blueberry, which yields the largest berry, of a 
purplish black ; when ripe is subacid, rich, and juicy. An- 
other variety, called the common, or high-bush berry, is also 
a rich, fine berry, of a dark-blue color. The common low- 
bush blueberry or huckleberry, is commonly known among 
the Jersey pickers or gatherers as the " cracker-berry," as 
they crack or snap in the mouth on account of their tough 
skin. They are smooth, quite black, full of seeds, and of a 
tartish taste. Another better variety of the low-bush, known 
as the " sugar-berry," being quite sweet, of a bluish coat, 
or like a coat of flour dusted over them, »and with very small 
seeds. When found in our markets they are usually mixed 
up together, and are in season from about the 15th of July 
to the 20th of September. 

Wild cherries. — These little purplish-black cherries 
(or drupes) are found on strings like currants, and, when 
ripe, have rather a pleasant bitterish-sweet taste, which 
some people are fond of, and are considered wholesome. 
They are much used for making cordials called cherry 
bounce, cherry brandy. Cultivation has improved them 
much, both in taste and size. The bark of the tree is 
much used for medical purposes, and the wood for making 
furniture, etc. They are found ripe about the 1st of 
September. 

Winter grapes, or frost grapes. — These are a 
small clustering species of the grape, of a pleasant acid 
flavor when ripe, and also when touched with the frost. 



394 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

They grow in clusters, and are thus found on sale in the 
month of November. 

Winter^reen berries, checker-berries, tea- 
berraes, pine ivy, etc. — These little red edible berries 
look much like a miniature crab-apple, and are found grow- 
ing on a shrub, from four to six inches high, on low sandy 
soils, usually among the pines. This berry's taste is much 
like the bark from off the twigs of siveet-birch, with the flavor 
of tvintergreen. They are used in syrups, confectionery, and 
pleasant out of hand, and sometimes put in whiskey or 
spirits, when it is called " tea-berry rum." The leaves make 
the essence of wintergreen. These berries are sometimes 
found in our markets in the winter and spring months, as 
they remain on the bush throughout the winter and early 
spring months. 



NUTS. 

Almonds. — These excellent nuts are not usually found 
on sale in our public markets, yet in plentiful seasons they 
can be purchased in some of them. The choice nuts are 
usually sold in our fine groceries, fruit-stores, and confec- 
tioners. The parts eaten are the meat of the dry pit or 
shell of the sweet almond, some of which are so soft that 
they are broken by the fingers; these are known as the 
sultana, but usually called soft or upper-shell, and ladies' thin- 
shell ; the thick-shell are known as the Jordan or hard-shell. 
They are now cultivated in the central and Southern States, 
but our large supplies are brought from the south of Europe. 
The fresh or new nuts usually arrive in our cities in the first 
winter months, when they are found very tender, sweet, 
with much of the " nutty flavor ;" while the old nuts are 
hard, dry, and with but little of this excellent flavor. 

Beech -nuts, or beech-mast. — These little nuts are 
occasionally found for sale, but are not sought after, or only 
when wanted for particular purposes. They are, however, 



nuts. 395 

eatable, and even nutritious ; of a triangular form, or shaped 
somewhat like a buckwheat kernel, but much larger. They 
are sometimes known as mast, or beech-mast, and serve to 
fatten hogs, especially in new countries where corn is scarce. 
Squirrels are particularly fond of them. In some parts of 
Europe they make oil from them. 

Black walnuts. — These excellent nuts, when ripe, 
and with the husk off, are very rough, black, and round; 
found in the markets during October and . November, and 
will keep for many months. The ripe kernel is large, sweet, 
and wholesome. The immature fruit, while in the green, 
tender, outside shell, and before the internal shell becomes 
hard (which is usually in the months of July and August, 
according to locations), makes the walnut catsup, or for 
pickling. The hard wood, which is of a dark purplish 
color, is much used by the cabinetmakers, and for gun- 
stocks, etc. 

Brazil nuts. — These nuts, as their name denotes, are a 
native of South America, and are of a dark brown, being 
rough-shelled and three-cornered, with a large white kernel, 
having the flavor of the hazel-nut, and very oily. The sea- 
son of the new nuts arriving here continues from March 
until May. 

Butter-nuts* white walnuts, or oil-nuts. — 
These are a species of the walnut, resembling, when young, 
the Hack tvalnut, but elongated and smaller. When ripe 
they are of an oval, oblong form, not quite so large or rough 
as the black walnut, and are of a different flavor, with an 
agreeable taste, and rich in oil. "When green and soft 
they are excellent for pickling. They ripen in the month 
of September. In the Eastern States these nuts are 
known as oil-nuts, and in Southern Ohio, etc., as the white 
walnut. 

Cashew nuts. — This is a native of the Indies, but 
sometimes found here. The nut or fruit is in size like an 
apple, some of a white, red, or yellow color, and, like the 
cherry, tastes sweet and pleasant, but sometimes sharp and 



396 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

astringent. The kidney-shaped seed grows on its summit, 
and, when roasted, is superior to almonds. 

Chestnuts. — I know of but two kinds that are repre- 
sented here — the common American chestnut, and the large 
Spanish chestnut Great quantities of the latter are sold 
roasted in a hot state along some of our public places and 
streets. The common chestnut is, however, the best flavored, 
especially when fresh, and is excellent either raw, roasted, 
or boiled. Their season commences in September and con- 
tinues good throughout the winter. 

Chinquapin nut, or dwarf chestnut. — This is a 
small variety of the chestnut, growing on smaller trees, and 
considered about the same quality. It is seldom seen here, 
but quite plenty in the markets of Baltimore and Phila- 
delphia, and is known by some as the dwarf chestnut. 

Cocoa-nut. — This nut is the best flavored of all the 
foreign kinds. They come principally from Baracoa, Brazil, 
and other places. The white kernel, although hard, woody, 
and tough, in its fresh state, is said to be very nutritious, 
and, when grated, makes excellent puddings, pies, cakes, in 
candy, etc. It contains a white liquid called milk, which is 
sweet and nourishing, and they should never be purchased 
but when this milk is heard to shake within them. The 
cocoa-nut tree furnishes food, raiment, milk, oil, toddy, cups, 
bowls, cordage, brushes, mats — in fact, it is difficult to say 
what it does not furnish the Indian. 

" The Indian nut alone 
Is clothing, meat and trencher, drink and pan, 
Boat, cable, sail, and needle — all in one." 

Filberts. — These nuts are said to be an improved variety 
of the common hazel-nut, but a great deal larger. The best 
kind is called the red filbert, known by its crimson skin ; an- 
other kind, called white filbert, with a yellow white skin ; and 
also another, called the large Spanish filbert. They are 
found throughout the year ; but the new nuts are received 
only from November to February. 



nuts. 397 

Ground-nuts, chufa, or earth almonds. — This 
little oval tuber having the name of nut, led me to place it 
under that head. They are very seldom seen in our mar- 
kets, no doubt in consequence of its smallness, although 
they are considered esculent, nutritious, and worthy of cul- 
ture, when they improve in size, and are ready for use in 
the fall months. When roasted, their taste is much like a 
boiled chestnut, being white, mealy, and good-flavored, and, 
when dried, their taste is somewhat like the almond. In 
some parts of Europe they are used for making an orgeat, 
which, with water, makes a milky drink, much used in Spain, 
and other hot climates where it is known. 

Mr. G. F. Waters, of Waterville, Maine, in a letter noticed 
in the Tribune, of January, 1860, says : " The plant has been 
growing in a wet corner of my garden for years. I have 
obtained tubers two inches in diameter. There are two 
kinds of this plant indigenous hereabouts. The tuber in one 
kind is quite round, and has a sweet taste, yellowish meat, 
etc. The other, which is the most common, tapers towards 
the ends, one being whiter than the other; meat, white, 
sweetish, and quite gummy. I have been told by one of our 
oldest inhabitants, that many people lived upon this ground- 
nut during the winter of 1817 and 1818, the nuts having 
been collected in the fall for food. The flower of this plant 
is quite showy and fragrant — the odor strongly resembles 
that of orris-root." 

Hazel-nuts, or wild filberts. — These are much the 
shape, form and color of the filbert, but are smaller, thicker 
shell, and better flavored. They grow on bushes, alongside 
the borders of the woods and fences, into a cluster of frizzled 
husks ; and when they begin to open, or show the end of 
the nut, they are fit to eat. They usually appear in August 
and September. 

Hickory-nuts. — There are several varieties of hickory- 
nuts, which are often found mixed together in our markets ; 
and it requires some knowledge of them to select the best. 
The choice nuts are generally known under the name of 



398 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Shell-barks, or shag-barks. — These grow on the 
shaggy-bodied trees, having a thin shell, a large well-tasted 
full kernel, of a good size, and ripen in October. They are 
also flatter made, with eight edges or corners, and easily to 
be cracked. The next best is called 

JVlocker-nuts, or thick-shelled hickories. — 
These are usually a larger and rounder nut, but with a very 
thick shell, while the kernel is small but sweet. There is 
also a smaller thick-shelled nut, which some call the white- 
heart hickories, but I think it the same grown in a poorer soil. 
The wood of this tree is the best kind for firewood. Another 
variety is called the 

Pig- nut hickories, which are smaller, fig-shaped 
nuts, having a kernel with a bitterish taste, although I have 
eaten them when quite sweet. This tree produces the 
toughest wood of all the other kinds. Then another variety, 
called 

Bitter-nut, hog-nut, or swamp -hickories, 
which are the poorest of all the varieties ; in fact, the kernel 
is so harsh and bitter that even the squirrels will not eat 
them. All the varieties ripen in October. 

Horse-chestnuts, or buckeyes. — The fruit grows 
in fleshy, prickly capsules, and ripens in the fall months. 
These nuts are not edible without some preparation. The 
Cultivator says : " The bitter green oil is removed by first 
grating them to a pulp, then adding one fiftieth (1-50) by 
weight of carbonate of soda. The mixture then is thor- 
oughly washed and racked by means of a clear fountain, 
and a white and agreeable paste subsides, which is manu- 
factured into bread and cakes. In Paris they are manu- 
factured into starch." 

Madeira, or English walnut. — Great quantities of 
this foreign fruit are annually imported here, and found in 
the fine groceries, fruit-stores, and markets. The Grenoble 
nuts are considered the best, and are in season throughout 
the year. The nuts begin to arrive here in December, and 
continue until April, when they are considered best. 



nuts. 399 

Peanuts, earth-nuts, pindar-nuts, or ground 
peas. — This common nut is found for sale in all our prin- 
cipal cities, and in all seasons of the year. They are brought 
principally from the Southern States, Africa, etc., in large 
quantities, and may be found chiefly in fruit stores, and af- 
ter having been roasted, everywhere, in the markets, on the 
street corners, apple-stands, basket pedlers, etc. 

The fresh or new nuts arrive here in November (until 
June), as the first frost kills the vines and ripens the nuts. 

In relation to the culture of this nut, the North Carolina 
Advertiser informs us that " the annual exportation to the 
Northern States and Canada considerably exceeds one 
hundred thousand bushels. A single planter in one of our 
Eastern States obtained from it a yearly income of six thou- 
sand dollars. He raised from fifty to seventy-five bushels 
to the acre, and cultivated five acres to the hand, which at 
one dollar a bushel, the ordinary price — though one dollar 
and twenty-five cents was frequently realized — yielded an 
income of from two hundred and fifty to three hundred 
dollars to the hand. No such result, under the old system 
of labor, could be obtained with the staples, on similar soils. 
Our cotton planters contented themselves with a crop yield- 
ing from twelve to fifteen dollars per acre, and it was the 
summing up on a large surface that gave a living result. 
The cultivation of no crop is so easy, and only the simplest 
implements are required — first the plow, to break the land, 
and then simply the sweep and weeding hoes. 

" The average crop, as we have stated, is from fifty to 
seventy-five bushels to the acre, besides which there will be 
left in the ground enough to fatten one hundred pounds of 
pork. The vine, when the pea is removed, makes an excel- 
lent forage for cattle — said to be equal to the best Northern 
hay. From the nut is expressed a most valuable oil. Dur- 
ing the war just closed this oil was universally used in our 
machine-shops, and its lubricatory properties are pro- 
nounced, by competent authorities, to be superior to those 
of whale-oil, for the reason that it does not gum at all. One 

22 



400 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 






of the qualities of oil is extensively employed in the compo- 
sition of medicine ; another is used for burning purposes, 
and possesses the virtue of not smoking ; while still a third 
makes a really excellent salad condiment. Such, and so 
varied and important are the uses to which this simple pro- 
duct can be devoted ; uses which the uninformed, who have 
perhaps regarded it only in the light of an indigestible bulb, 
would never suspect to proceed from its cultivation." 

Pecan nuts.— These nuts are brought from the South 
and West, and are taken for a species of the Hickory Nut, 
known by some as the Illinois Hickory. It is almost an inch 
long, as large as the end of a common- sized finger, with a 
smooth shell, and oblong shape. They are of an agreeable 
taste and wholesome. Brought here principally from the 
Southern States and Texas, and in season from December 
until April. 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 

Butter. — This most useful article of the dairy is known 
so well, that it would be almost impossible to give the least 
information in relation to it. We, however, find that it was 
unknown to the ancient Greeks, and the Romans employed 
it only for anointing or as medicine ; but as an article of 
food it originated with people of the middle ages, whose 
generations have continued on with its use to the present 
day. 

It is always to be found in great abundance in our mar- 
kets, as well as in the grocery and other stores. It is 
brought from almost every county in ours, as well as the 
neighboring States, but the counties of Orange, Chemung, 
and Cortland (in New York) have the reputation of produc- 
ing the best qualities and largest quantities ; there are, how- 
ever, many towns in this and other States, especially in 
Pennsylvania, which are producing the article in all its ex- 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 401 

cellence, especially that which is packed by them for win- 
ter's use. I think in this, as well as many of the dairy pro- 
ducts, that the farmers who supply the Philadelphia mar- 
kets, excel in having their Butter well made, neatly done up 
in nice clean packages, and — I won't add that it is better- 
flavored than some of the New York or Boston Butter — but 
it certainly is more generally good. 

Some of the Western butter is not always to be depended 
on, as it will be occasionally of all colors, kinds, and flavors, 
and also in all. kinds of packages. It is used largely in all 
the delicate operations of cookery, and an almost indispen- 
sable accompaniment with bread. The best is made in the 
spring months, it then being of the finest flavor and color ; 
the next best is made in the fall months ; the next in the 
summer, and the poorest quality is the white " chimney-cor- 
ner butter" made in the winter, which is usually found with 
a bitterish taste, quite mealy-looking, and made up into va- 
rious sized rolls, of from one to three pounds weight. 

An enormous pyramid of Butter was exhibited in the City 
of New York, in the year 1838, by Colonel Thomas S. Mea- 
cham, of Richmond, Oswego County, New York. This large 
mass of Butter, the press says, "weighed upwards of one 
thousand two hundred pounds." Another he had forwarded 
to Washington, weighing over one thousand four hundred 
pounds, to receive the critical judgment of the representa- 
tives of the nation. " We hope that he may get as good a 
price for it as he did on a previous occasion for a like speci- 
men sent to the capital — fifty cents a pound." One of 
these large truncated cones of butter, weighing one thousand 
three hundred and fifty pounds, was on sale at Griffith's, in 
South-street, one door below Coenties-slip, in New York. 
The press says that it was afterwards removed to the City 
Hotel, in Broadway, for exhibition, and afterwards cut up 
and sold to purchasers. It was tastefully ornamented, and 
bore the following inscription : " The great Western Pyra- 
mid of Fine Table Butter — manufactured, erected, and in- 
scribed in honor of the Civil and Judicial Officers, Editors, 

26 



402 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

Merchants, Mechanics, and enterprising Citizens of the 
great and flourishing City of New York." 

Cheese*. — This well-known substance is found in abun- 
dance in our markets, provision, and grocery stores, and 
seen of several varieties, sizes, forms, colors, and flavors. 
The best is made from what is termed the creamed or ivhole 
milk, then from the half-creamed, and then from the skim- 
milk, which produces at least three qualities of Cheese. 
Some of the choicest comes from Herkimer and Jefferson 
counties, in this State, and the much admired "English 
dairy cheese." Connecticut claims to produce the largest 
quantity as well as the best quality. In choosing Cheese, we 
must first find that which will please our taste, at the same 
time it should be compact and of a buttery texture, free 
from holes within, with a smooth, firm rind, sufficient salt 
for a pleasant relish and to preserve it untainted. Their 
usual weight varies from ten up to seventy pounds, although 
some dairies produce them above one hundred pounds, and 
some, again, above one thousand pounds. The " Great 
Cheese," presented to President Jefferson (January 1, 1802), 
by several farmers of Cheshire, Massachusetts, weighed one 
thousand two hundred and thirty-five pounds. In the year 
1835 several very large Cheeses were made by Colonel Mea- 
cham (previously noticed), who then kept one hundred and 
fifty-four cows, and made that season three hundred cheeses, 
weighing one hundred and twenty-five pounds each. He 
also made one for President Jackson, weighing one thou- 
sand four hundred pounds ; and nine others whose aggregate 
was eight thousand one hundred and fifty pounds. In re- 
lation to the disposition of some of these " mammoth cheeses," 
the Commercial Advertiser (December 8, 1835) says : " One 
of these large Cheeses was purchased by the St. Nicholas So- 
ciety, and served up at their anniversary dinner, at the City 
Hotel, yesterday. It attracted great attention, and the 
quality of the article was pronounced excellent. 

" Col. Meacham removed the cheeses yesterday from Ma- 
. sonic Hall (where they had been on exhibition) to the store 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS 403 

of Messrs. S. & W. Hotaling, No. 29, west side of Coenties 
Slip, where they will remain a few days. It has already 
been mentioned in the public papers that one of these noble 
cheeses was intended as a present to Daniel "Webster. Col. 
M. this morning called upon Mr. Webster, and requested 
him to walk over to Coenties Slip and examine these speci- 
mens of the product of his dairy — a request, we need not 
add, which was readily complied with. 

" The Eastern senator was highly gratified with the view 
of these extraordinary articles, the taste with which they 
have been prepared and preserved, and the apparent excel- 
lence of their quality. He seemed to be perfectly at home 
upon the subject, and entered into the spirit of agricultural 
pursuits with a familiarity of conversation which proved 
that he had not forgotten the knowledge he had obtained 
when himself a youthful farmer, guiding the plough with 
an arm as vigorous as the intellect which he is now conse- 
crating to the service of his country in the high councils of 
state. 

" In the course of the interview Col. Meacham said to 
Mr. Webster that his occupation was that of a farmer, in 
the county of Oswego, and that he had a dairy of one hun- 
dred and fifty-four cows ; that with a view of giving an im- 
pulse to this particular branch of husbandry, he had made 
these cheeses during the last season. His intention was, to 
present one of them to the President of the United States, 
another to the Yice-President, and a third to the Governor 
of the State of New York, and a fourth to some other dis- 
tinguished citizen. His fellow-citizens of the County of 
Oswego had manifested a lively interest upon the subject ; 
and it was no less in accordance with their feelings (and, 
indeed, with their particular desire) than with his own, that 
this distinguished citizen should be the gentleman whom he 
had now the honor to address, but whom he had not 
anticipated the pleasure of meeting in this city. With this 
view one of the cheeses had been inscribed to him (Mr, 



404 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 






Webster) before it came from his own farm, and of this he 
now begged his acceptance. 

" Mr. Webster replied, in substance, that he appreciated 
the compliment very highly, and accepted it with much 
gratification. These cheeses, he remarked, were the finest 
specimens of an American dairy that he had ever seen. 
Not only were they highly creditable to the enterprise and 
public spirit which had prompted their manufacture, but 
they bore direct testimony to the character and prosperity 
of the district of country in which they had been produced. 
He begged Col. Meacham to accept of his thanks for the 
very handsome present, and to convey his kind regards 
to those of his fellow-citizens of Oswego who had united 
with him, in feeling at least, in the bestowment of this 
mark of their favor toward so humble an individual as 
himself." 

In the year 1849, at the Fair of the American Institute, 
a mammoth cheese was exhibited which was said to weigh 
one thousand seven hundred and fifty pounds ! without 
doubt the largest ever made. It came from Austin, Ash- 
tabula County, Ohio. 

Pineapple cheese. — These pineapple-shaped cheese 
are formed by being pressed in a net the form found, and 
the rind is toughened with the assistance of hot water, 
which assists in keeping them a long time. Their usual 
weight is from six to twelve pounds. 

Cream cheese. — Another article made from milk, and 
is sometimes found in our markets, but more particularly in 
those of Philadelphia. It is made from rich sour cream tied 
up in linen cloth to drain, then laid on a deep dish, still 
covered around, and turned every day, and sprinkled with 
salt for ten days or a fortnight, until it is ripe. If wanted 
to ripen quick, cover it with mint or nettle leaves. This, 
however, is only one way. There is another article much 
used called 

Smearkase 9 a German name for churds. It is made 
into pies, cakes, spread on bread, and also eaten with pep- 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PEODUCTS. 405 

per and salt. I ate some in Philadelphia made into a cake, 
which I found was very good. 

Egg's. — -'With all the nations of the earth eggs more par- 
ticularly have been a favorite and wholesome food. Here 
they may be considered as being in season the year round, 
although in the spring months they are more plentiful and 
cheap ; the winter months, however, they are found usually 
quite scarce and high, and, of course, but few families can 
afford to use them, or only in mixed preparations. In cer- 
tain seasons they come by thousands, in fact I may truly 
say thousands of barrels, containing almost a thousand 
in each, from Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, etc. They 
come nicely packed with clean oats, etc., in good flour-bar- 
rels, when they arrive here in good condition, with no loss 
on the oats, as they are a ready sale. 

Among the various kinds of eggs there appears to be two 
qualities, viz., the fresh-laid eggs and the preserved eggs. 
The latter are preserved by the use of lime-water, salt, 
scalding, etc., which appears to destroy the vital principle, 
when "they are not considered so valuable in their general 
uses as the first, or fresh-laid eggs. The fresh, or newly -laid 
eggs appear semi-transparent when placed between the eye 
and a strong light. The large end placed against the 
tongue will also feel warm. If it shakes it is apt to be 
stale or quite bad ; in fact, a good fresh egg when placed 
in water sinks quickly, but if stale, they either float or sink 
slowly. 

Some imagine that because eggs are different shades of 
color, size, and looks, they cannot be all fresh alike. "To 
every hen belongs an individual peculiarity in the form, 
color, and size of the egg she lays, and it never changes 
so long as she remains healthy. Some hens lay smooth, 
cream-colored eggs, others rough, chalky, granulated ones ; 
then there is the buff, the snow-white, the spherical, the 
oval, the pear-shaped, and the emphatically egg-shaped 

tgg" 

I>uck eggs are of a bluish cast, a little larger than the 



406 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

common fowl's, and the flavor not so delicate ; only found in 
the spring of the year, and then occasionally. 

Goose eggs are much larger, whiter, and usually less 
esteemed. They are scarcely ever seen more than a few 
lots in the spring. 

Guinea lien's eggs. — These are very small, speckled, 
and considered one of the best flavored ; generally found 
among the common fowls' eggs. 

Turkeys' and pea-fowls' eggs are seldom or ever 
found in our markets. All of the above are usually mixed 
with the common fowls' when brought to us direct by the 
neighboring farmers or market-men. 

Egg-powder. — The eggs are solidified, or condensed 
into a dried powder. The white and yolk are reduced by 
evaporation, then packed in tins, which can be kept any 
length of time. This egg-poioder can be used as the fresh 
eggs for many purposes in cookery. 

How to preserve eggs. — Pour a gallon of water 
upon a pound of quick-lime in a jar. Let it remain about 
twenty-four hours to cool after its effervescence ; procure 
eggs as fresh as you can, and drop them into the jar gently ; 
place the jar where you can take out the eggs ivithout 
disturbing it, so the eggs will keep good for a twelvemonth. 
(Trans. Am. Inst., 1855.) 

Honey (in the comb). — This delicious and nutritive mat- 
ter is found in our markets, sometimes in great plenty, in 
the summer and fall months. It is estimated according to 
the nature of the flower from which it is extracted. The 
best is found in small boxes (showing one or two sides 
with glass), the comb well filled with white and handsome 
honey, which is supposed to be made principally from the 
white clover ; the buckwheat (flower) honey is darker, but 
very sweet. Large hives of honey are also found, but it is 
generally inferior to the above. 

Honey (strained), or Southern honey. — I believe 
this kind of honey is now seldom found in our markets, or 
in fact much sought after. Years ago it was very plenti- 



DAIEY AND HOUSEHOLD PKODUCTS. 407 

ful and cheap, but seldom found as pure as nature made 
it, which, no doubt, is one cause of its being so little used. 

Beeswax. — In the fall months beeswax is found quite 
plenty, in cakes, brought in by the dealers in Southern 
and Western honey. There is much sold that is impure, not 
worth half the price of pure. 

Maple-sugar. — This product of the forest is found in 
its season in large quantities for sale in our markets. It 
begins to make its appearance about the 1st of March, and 
found quite plenty in April, May, and June. It is often 
found in small cakes from a quarter to half a pound each, 
and also in square bars. Some of it is very white, nice- 
looking, and not very sweet, having been through a bleach- 
ing process, which not only takes out the sweetness, but a 
share of the maple flavor ; and, again, it is found mixed 
with common sugar. 

Maple synrp and molasses is also made in large 
quantities, but usually sold in large groceries, etc. 

A very large production of Maple Sugar from one tree is 
found noticed in the Commercial Advertiser, June 13th, 1808, 
as follows : "Mr. Luke Baker, of Princeton, in the County 
of Worcester (Massachusetts), during the past season, in- 
serted twenty taps into one maple-tree on his farm, by means 
of which he drew twenty-three gallons and three quarts of 
sap in one day, which being boiled into Sugar made seven 
pounds and a quarter ; and the whole quantity of Sugar 
made from the same tree this season is thirty-three pounds, 
which must have required, according to the above propor- 
tions, upwards of one hundred and eight gallons of sap. 
The above facts are given under Mr. Baker's own hand." 

Another article 'in the same paper (January 24, 1814), 
shows the profit and its advantages in its making at that 
period. " The high price of foreign sugars will render the 
manufacture of Maple Sugar the ensuing season an object 
of very great profit to the manufacturer, and of great im- 
portance to the country, particularly the interior. With the 
view of exciting early attention to the subject, we annex 



408 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT 

some data, derived from a person of experience in the busi- 
ness. He states that his sugar-works, consisting of three 
hundred and sixty trees, yielded him last season one ton of 
sugar, and sixty gallons of molasses ; and that the whole la- 
bor was performed by one man and a boy, with a yoke of 
oxen and a sled. Calculating troughs and buckets to last 
eight years, and to cost twenty-five cents each, the expendi- 
tures and receipts would stand nearly thus : 

"Expenses. "Wages of one man six Weeks, $30. Do. of one 
boy the same, $20. Twelve and one-half per cent, of the 
cost of buckets, $10. Miscellaneous expenses, $25.86. 
Total expense, $85.86. 

"Receipts. 2,000 pounds sugar at $20 per cwt., $400. 60 
gallons molasses at $1.50 per gallon, $90 — makes $490. De- 
duct expenses — $85.86 — leaves clear profit, $404.14." 

Sorgum syrup is another sweet article lately intro- 
duced in our markets, made from a species of cane, some- 
what like that of Broom Corn. It is very pleasant-tasted, 
and will readily take the place of the common syrup, or mo- 
lasses, in the principal uses where the latter is employed. 
Its sweetening strength is said to be much greater, as a less 
quantity is required, and with buckwheat and other griddle 
cakes it is excellent. 

Homimy. — There appears but two kinds of this excel- 
lent and healthy food prepared for sale, which are usually 
known as the small and great hominy ; either of which are 
seldom or ever prepared or cooked ready for sale in the 
Boston or New York markets ; but in the public markets of 
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington it is sold in large 
quantities, not only to the poorer classes, but to all. There 
the people come as much prepared to purchase it and bring 
it in their kettles, or dishes, as they do their Butter. Many 
families, no doubt, in either New York, Boston, or elsewhere, 
who have not the convenience, knowledge, or the time to 
cook it (and it requires a considerable time to do it proper- 
ly), would purchase it as quickly as they would Sausages, 
Head-cheese, or even Butter itself. However, in point of 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS* 409 

economy for human food, it is said that one Bushel of Hom- 
iny is equal to Eight Bushels of Potatoes. The " Plough" 
says, to prepare it : " Wash slightly in cold water and soak 
twelve hours in tepid soft water ; then boil slowly from three 
to six hours in the same water, with plenty more added 
from time to time, with great care to prevent burning. 
Don't salt while cooking, as that or hard water will harden 
the corn. When done, add butter and salt ; or the better 
way is to let every one season to suit his taste. It is good 
hot or cold, and better when warmed over." 

Since writing the above, I have found another kind, called 
lyed liominy, which is differently although easily pre- 
pared. That is, boil the white field corn in ashes and water 
until the husk or skin of the grain is loosened, which takes 
place in a few minutes ; care, however, must be taken that 
it does not remain too long in the ashes, or it will taste of 
the lye. So soon as the husk is loosened, it must be washed 
and rubbed through the hands in cold water, until the grain 
is cleansed from the ashes and husk or bran. When wanted 
to be cooked for the table, it must be scalded and then put 
to boil in plenty of water, having plenty of hot water to add 
to it as the first boils down. The grain will burst into a 
white ball, and become soft when sufficiently done, when 
it is ready to be eaten, either warm or cold, with milk, 
cream, etc. 

Captain N. Uring informs us how hominy was made in 
Virginia one hundred and forty years ago (1726). He says : 
" They put such a quantity of corn in steep (soak) as they 
design to boil the next day ; and then take a small quantity 
at a time, and beat it in a wooden mortar, which is made by 
hollowing a piece of tree, and. with a pestle, beat the corn 
till it is broken into small pieces, and the husk separated 
from the grain, which is facilitated by its being soaked in 
water all night ; when they have beaten the quantity they 
design, they winnow the husk from the grain, and put it 
into a pot with some few kidney-beans, and a sufficient 
quantity of water, with a piece of beef or pork, and boil it, 



410 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

and it is excellent, hearty food, very wholesome and well- 
tasted, and is what most of the poorer sort of people in that 
country live upon." 

Apple -butter is another domestic article which may 
be properly called a sauce, being made of sweet cider, and 
apples, and is occasionally found in our markets. Large 
quantities are manufactured in some of the States, more 
especially in Pennsylvania, where its use is almost univer- 
sal, being considered one of the necessaries of the table. In 
its preparation, " the cider is boiled in large kettles, holding 
from thirty to forty gallons, into which apples, properly 
pared and quartered, are thrown — say two bushels of pre- 
pared apples to twenty-five gallons of cider. After six to 
eight hours' boiling, during which the liquor is constantly 
stirred, it begins to thicken, and, when reduced to a toler- 
able paste, and about the color of chocolate, it is taken from 
the fire, deposited in earthen jars, and, after standing a few 
weeks, is of good flavor for use." 

Apple-sauce is another similar-made article, except 
the mashing of the apple. Both of the above are made in 
large quantities by the Shakers, who put it up in neat and 
proper packages, when it is readily sold. 

Saur-kraut, or sour-krout. — This article is found 
quite plentiful in our markets, usually prepared by the 
Germans. To make it, take as many hard, firm cabbages 
as you wish to preserve, tear off the loose leaves, then quar- 
ter them, cut out the hearts or stalks, and chop, with a 
machine or hand, the quarters into small pieces. Then, to 
every one hundred pounds of cabbage, take three pounds of 
salt, a quarter of a pound of caraway-seed, and two ounces 
of juniper-berries ; mix them all together. Procure sweet, 
clean, iron-hooped casks, lay the chopped cabbage three 
inches deep, then sprinkle each layer, as it is pressed in, 
with the mixture of salt, caraway- seed, and juniper-berries. 
After each is full, it must be covered with a linen cloth, and 
wooden head, then pressed down with heavy weights, and 
allowed to ferment for a month. The cabbage produces a 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 411 

great deal of w^ter, which must be poured off, and its place 
supplied with a mixture of warm water, whole black-pepper, 
and common salt ; keeping the cabbage always well covered 
with brine, and have the casks placed in a cool situation as 
soon as a sour smell is perceived. 

Feathers- — There are two kinds of feathers found on 
birds. The strong and hard kinds found in the wings and 
tails, especially from geese and swans are called quills, which 
are used principally for pens ; those from other large species 
are sometimes used in making toys, etc. The soft feathers 
which cover the bodies of poultry, and most all kinds of 
birds, as a protection and ornament, are principally used 
for beds. The best feathers are white and downy, and espe- 
cially those picked from live geese, etc. This operation takes 
place about three times in a season, or when their feathers 
begin to fall, which appears about the 1st of April, then 
again the middle of June, and again the 1st of September. 
The feathers from birds which were dead when picked are 
not so much valued, in consequence of the blood being left 
in the ends, which causes them to smell bad and pack more 
closely. 

Cat-tails, or meadow-flag. — The fur or hair of the 
fruit of this meadow-plant is picked off, when ripe, for sev- 
eral uses, but principally for beds. The broad leaves or 
flags are much used for chairs and by the coopers, to put 
between the staves to tighten casks. They are sometimes 
found here for sale ready prepared for use. 

Bulrush, or rushes. — I have occasionally seen 
bunches of these harsh, grating stalks, or rather a sort of 
green, rough spikes, sheathed into one another, for sale ; 
but for what use here I do not know. In the country they 
are sometimes used to scrub with. There is, however, a 
softer kind, which is much used for chair-bottoms, mats, 
coarse basket-work, etc. 

Broom-corn. — This species of the Indian Corn is grown 
principally for making the common whisk-brooms. There 
appears but two kinds, and both have friends ; these are 



412 THE MAKEET ASSISTANT. 

the tall and dwarf. The seeds are used more for replanting, 
but are frequently sold for feed, and, by some, considered 
nearly as good as oats. Many years ago whisk-brooms were 
made by some farmers, who brought and sold them in the 
markets. They were rather clumsy-looking, but excellent 
wearing brooms ; the handles, more especially, if not hand- 
somely turned, claimed smoothness and great strength. A 
" broomstick," then, laid across the shoulders or head by 
the angry housewife, was generally a settler. 

It is recorded in the Washington Sun (1837), that broom- 
corn, now cultivated to so profitable an extent in this coun- 
try, owes its cultivation to Dr. Franklin's acute mind. A 
lady of Philadelphia held an imported clothes whisk in her 
hand, and, while examining it as a novelty, he found a 
single grain still attached to the stalk ; this he planted, and 
a large, increasing article of usefulness has been thus per- 
petuated in the United States. 

Christmas greens. — A few days before Christmas, a 
great many wagons, etc., are brought to the markets loaded 
with the tops, limbs, and young evergreen trees of spruce, 
pines, firs, cedars for " Christmas-trees ;" also the running 
ground-vines, or running pines, etc., tied up in bunches, 
ropes, stars, hoops, figures, etc., ornamented with little red 
winter-berries, painted paper-flowers, etc., to ornament 
various public and private houses on Ghristmas day. The 
streets about some of our public markets are sometimes 
piled up along the gutters, or on wagons, from square to 
square ; besides, hundreds of loads are brought in and de- 
livered directly to the purchasers. 

Birch brooms * — Large numbers of these coarse brooms, 
made principally of birch twigs, or shoots, by many of the 
farm laborers, when there is nothing else to do in the winter 
months, are sold at, or peddled about, the markets. Many 
are used by the butchers, street-sweepers, etc. 

Baskets. — Many years ago baskets of all sorts, sizes, 
and kinds, among which were the bushel (full measure), the 
round handle, the flat and the square baskets, were sold in 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 413 

our markets, usually in the spring of the year, by our thrifty 
farmers, being the productions of their winter's labor ; and 
if they were not so handsomely turned, they were strongly 
made, " not for a day," but until you were satisfied that your 
money was not laid out in trash. These remarks will lead 
me to notice the 

Bushel baskets.— Large quantities of apples, pears, 
peaches, potatoes, etc., are sold by the basket, and often 
represented as a bushel basket. This bushel basket is a mere 
figure of speech, which signifies that if filled with peaches, 
pears, or plums, they will actually measure about half a 
bushel — if apples or potatoes, about three pecks, or five bas- 
kets out of three. If the fair-dealing producer should ask 
a reasonable price for an honest bushel basket of apples, say 
one dollar, and another dealer close by, with a bushel basket 
of three pecks, asks eighty-seven and a half cents, the latter 
will sell his produce much sooner than the other, because 
the price for his bushel basket of three pecks is lower, when, in 
reality, the honest bushel basket is the cheapest. 

The only reason that I can give for this is, that many who 
go to market imagine that every basket represented as a 
bushel basket should contain a bushel measure, and that no 
one would dare to sell short measure in such a basket, and 
in such a public place ; therefore, for the protection of both 
the purchaser and the honest dealer, a law should be so 
framed and put in force, as to either compel the restoration 
of ihefuU bushel basket, or else have every basket marked ac- 
cording to its true capacity. 

There are also a great many barrels of articles which 
come to our markets, like the bushel baskets, are frauds on 
the purchasers, and in defiance of the law which regulates 
the size of apple, pear, and potato barrels ; the uniform size 
of which is fixed at that of a flour barrel, and none smaller 
than that can be used, on penalty of the loss of whatever 
the barrel may contain, besides a fine as an additional pun- 
ishment for swindling. 

This also calls my attention to a truthful statement 



414 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

found in that excellent paper, the American Agriculturist, 
headed — 

" Farmers' Tricks of Trade.— The following from a cor- 
respondent needs no comment : ' Of two Long Island farm- 
ers, one warmly contended that custom sanctioned putting 
the largest and finest potatoes, apples, pears, peaches, etc., 
on top of the basket or barrel, for if this is not done, they 
bring lower prices. The other, who was more conscien- 
tious, said he could not do it, notwithstanding custom sanc- 
tioned it, and he was aware that he got less for his fruit 
and vegetables than his neighbor did. As a buyer for 
family use, I listened attentively, and regretted to find that 
the majority of buyers, or market-men, at least, are thus 
paid a premium for what I should term deception, if not 
dishonesty. For a long time I have observed this tendency 
to make the finest show upon the outside ; and when I wish 
to buy a basket of apples or peaches, I have to ask the 
dealer to pour them out, to see how the bottom compares 
with the top. What says the Agriculturist to so glaring an 
evil? Shall we not rather encourage uprightness in all 
our dealings, than countenance deception in any way ? I 
know of parties who have bought what they supposed to be 
fine baskets of fruit, judging from the outside appearance, 
and finding them so very inferior generally, they have re- 
solved never to deal with such sellers again. As it now is, 
a person is certainly liable to be deceived, unless he over- 
hauls every package of fruit or vegetables coming to mar- 
ket. As far as one purchaser is concerned, I am resolved 
to purchase of such persons as the conscientious dealer re- 
ferred to, when I can thus encourage honesty rather than 
duplicity.' " 

"What usually makes a bushel :— " Sixty pounds of wheat, 
Irish potatoes, beans, or clover-seed ; fifty-six pounds of shelled 
com, rye, or barley ; forty-five pounds of timothy, flax, or 
Jwmp seed; seventy pounds of corn on the cob; thirty-six 
pounds of oats ; fifty-two pounds of buckwheat ; fifty-seven 
pounds of sweet patatoes ; forty-seven pounds of onions; 



I 

DAIBY AND HOUSEHOLD PEODUCTS. - 415 

thirty-three pounds of dried peaches ; twenty pounds of 
bran, etc. 

I will also add here a few remarks on the articles usually 
sold by weight, that come in kegs, boxes, or other packages, 
which, to those who don't know, will be information, under 
the head of 

Crross, tare, and net weights. — In buying large 
quantities of butter, lard, honey, etc., in the packages in 
which they are brought in, either barrels, boxes, firkins, 
tubs, etc., if the whole package is weighed it is called the 
gross weight. The tare is the weight of the empty barrel, 
box, etc., which should be weighed before the article is put 
in, and marked distinctly on the package, directly under the 
gross weight. The tare is deducted from the gross, which 
leaves the net weight of the article to be paid for, and the 
package as agreed upon. 

Pot-plants, roots, and bouquets, in the spring 
and early summer months, are found on some of the stands, 
which are usually located on the outside of the public mar- 
kets, where light and air are advantageous to the life and 
growth of the numerous varieties of plants and roots, com- 
monly wanted at this period of the year. Here are found the 
delicate hot-house and open-air plants, usually ornamented 
with many beautiful and varied-colored flowers, while young 
fruit-trees, bushes, and shrubs are looking their greenest 
and prettiest close by ; then behind these are seen the 
rusty-looking grape-vines and other roots which partially 
lie covered and cared for, so that at least there is life 
enough left to successfully transplant each one to a more 
generous home. Most of the flowering plants are usually 
found in bloom, having been forced into that state by the 
florists, as they are found to be most salable, or rather 
that they more readily take the fancy of the general pur- 
chaser. So numerous are the varieties found, that to give 
a proper description of each of them would require so 
many pages — already fully described in other works — that 
to attempt a description here would perhaps deter those in 



416 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

want from at least a visit to the various stands, where these 
natural and cultivated beauties of the floral life are sold. 

Among these are many rare and choice plants, besides 
elegant bouquets, some of which are quite elaborately pre- 
pared for those w r hose purse corresponds with their tastes, 
while thousands are found merely formed of a few of the 
common or wild flowers of the season. Their sale is not 
confined to the outside stands altogether, but also to many 
hucksters and others, who have them in various months of 
the year ; all, however, are usually sold at reasonable rates, 
by which a large business has grown up in this department 
of the public markets products. 



ECONOMY IN THE USE OF MEATS: 

AND 
HUNG MEATS. 

Economy in cooking should be studied and practised by 
all, as many a wholesome dish or dinner can be prepared 
for a very small sum, especially butcher's meat, the principal 
part of which is sold and used in a. fresh state. 

There are many parts of an animal which are sold many 
cents per pound cheaper than some which are called choice 
cuts or pieces ; at least three parts of the animal is of this 
former class of meat, which will not generally bring the first 
cost per pound that the whole animal cost, and this is one 
reason why the other quarter part brings the higher charged 
prices. This large portion of the animal comprises the 
chuck-ribs, rounds, cross-ribs, tops-of-sirloins, plates, navels, 
briskets, flanks, neck-pieces, leg-pieces, legs and shins of 
beef, shoulders of mutton or veal, liver, haslets, hearts, 
sheep-heads, etc., all good for various dishes, either a roast- 
in-the-pot (a country cooked dish), stewing, boiling, bouilli, 
soups, and some are even good for a plain roast or a good 
steak, etc. 



ECONOMY IN THE USE OF MEATS: AND HUNG- MEATS. 41? 

The English make excellent dishes of cow-heels, sheeps- 
trotters, melts, lights, etc., while the Germans of the entrails 
of calves make into a dish which I found to be excellent 
eating ; and we find that each nation,. as well as family, has 
its peculiar manner of cooking nearly every joint of meat as 
of other articles of food. 

There are many people of limited means who "do mar- 
keting," seem to have no desire or wish to practise economy, 
but rather to appear extravagant, if it lies in their power, 
by purchasing every thing at the highest prices, more es- 
pecially where credit is given ; others do this rather to live 
on the labor of other people than rely on their own. Some 
there are who have a large family, for instance, want a roast 
of about twelve pounds weight, of either beef, veal, or mut- 
ton, who think nothing else will do but a choice rib or sir- 
loin, or a fillet or loin of veal, or leg or saddle of mutton, 
will answer, which, at a cost of eighteen and three-quarter 
cents per pound, amounts to two dollars and thirty-five cents, 
when a cross-rib, or chuck-rib, or shoulder of veal, or fore 
quarter of mutton, of the same weight, would cost about 
one dollar or one dollar and twenty-five cents ; then the lat- 
ter, if prepared by a plain country cook, would make either 
joint quite as tender, juicy, as well relished, and in reality 
more eatable than that which costs nearly or quite half as 
much more, when prepared by many of our modern cooks. 

Again, there are some who, if they had but twenty-five 
cents in the whole world to lay out in meat, they would se- 
lect a " pound of the best porter-house steak," or a " pound 
of veal cutlets" — not a taste hardly for two persons, but it 
must do for six — when, if laid out for a three or four pound 
piece for bouilli, or soup, or a common stew, would be a 
bountiful supply of food for all. Yes, twenty cents worth of 
meat and ten cents worth of beans or peas, or some other 
good, low-priced vegetables, would make a much more 
wholesome, nutritious, and economical meal than would a 
four-pound sirloin steak make alone, at a cost of seventy- 
five cents or a dollar. I have often observed that those who 



418 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

plead against the dearness and extravagant prices of meat, 
and who I have offered a six or seven pounds beefs heart, 
which would make them two good nutritious meals, refuse to 
take it at a cost of fifteen cents only ; they would rather pay 
their last dollar for half as much meat in an expensive steak 
or chop. This is one of the chief causes why the few prime 
parts are so high-priced. 

Sometimes, however, we find persons who were brought 
up in the country among our thrifty farmers, fail not to re- 
member the precepts the good housekeeper, their mother, 
who had taught them the great domestic accomplishment of 
producing an economical dinner from an ordinary part of 
any joint of meat. I am also sorry, as I am free to say, 
that this one accomplishment, so necessary to every woman 
housekeeper, and so useful to the economy of every-day life, 
is not taught now-a-days ; it is not even hinted at in any of 
our schools or seminaries. 

filing meats. — Meats should be hung long enough to 
grow tender ; if too long it becomes dry, loses its juices, fla- 
vor and weight, and if not hung long enough it is found 
tough and hard. It should also be hung where the air is 
clear and cool, but not in a strong current, as then it will 
dry out its juices. It is said that if you steam a tough piece 
of meat for a half an hour, then roast it in the ordinary man- 
ner, it will be tender. I have no doubt but this process will 
assist it, but I think at the expense of a loss of much of its 
sweetness. The loss in cooking meats — when roasted is 
about one third, and in boiling about one quarter. 



BLEEDING ANIMALS. 

The practice of bleeding cattle, calves, sheep, and lambs 
before slaughtering them, is almost done away with in the 
city of New York ; there are, however, a few who still con- 
tinue it. 

The public generally begin to understand which is the 



BLEEDING ANIMALS. 419 

best meat — that from the animal which has been bled two or 
three times, until all the sweet juices have been extracted, or 
that from animals which have not been bled, having all the 
natural excellent juices remaining. 

I think it must convince every thinking person that by 
taking (two or three days before the animal is killed) from 
thirty to fifty quarts of blood from a steer or an ox, such 
practice, by drawing the life of the flesh, which is blood, will 
reduce and weaken the animal to such an extent as to ren- 
der it incapable of eating its usual quantity of food, thereby 
causing a sick, feverish, and thirsty condition. Water being 
placed before the animal in its feverish state, it drinks 
largely to supply the liquid deprived from the flesh by this 
bleeding, as well as to relieve a feverish thirst. As a con- 
sequence the rich, thick, red blood is drawn from the ani- 
mal and newly replaced by a large quantity of water. This 
watery mixture is drawn back through the veins and flesh, 
which has the effect of thinning and whitening, or of pro- 
ducing the desired handsome, light, and clear-colored beef, 
so stupidly sought after, and which is generally so much ad- 
mired by those who have more regard for and knowledge, of 
appearances they possess for these negative attributes, which 
alike demonstrate the unsterling value, not only in man but 
in the meats of beasts as well. 

In Calves, this bleeding process is still worse, as it — for 
the sake of whiteness — exhausts what little juice or sweet- 
ness thsre is in Veal, leaving it a dry, insipid, and tasteless 
flesh. 

If, however, the calf should be immediately killed, fresh or 
direct from the cow, without bleeding, the veal will be nat- 
rally white, tender, juicy, and wholesome food. On the 
other hand, the startling facts present themselves that much 
of the flesh called Veal, sold about our cities, really is not 
fit for human food, in consequence either of its tender age, 
starvation, bleeding, and the inhuman manner of conveying 
these (and some other) animals through our streets to their 
destination, or all combined. I have known instances where 



420 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 

young calves have been taken from the cow in the morning, 
rode some fifteen or twenty miles through a hot sun to the 
market-boats or railroad station, then through the night 
brought on to the city, the next morning purchased up by 
the butchers (or rather by some of those who conduct the 
business), who are sometimes cruel enough to pack some fif- 
teen or twenty in a cart, with legs tied and heads hanging 
over the sides ; then carried over the rough pavement to the 
place of their destination, when they are often found injured 
and in a half-smothered condition ; this, with their continued 
bleating and starvation, for sometimes from twenty to fifty 
hours (and I have known them to be in pens afterwards for 
a week or more without proper food). When killed, the 
veal of such treated animals will be very red, veiny — the re- 
sult of this feverish state. Such veal would not sell so well 
as if it had been whitened, as is usually done, by the bleed- 
ing process. This is one of the just causes for com- 
plaint against this poor, insipid, tasteless, and unwhole- 
some veal. 

Thousands of calves, or their flesh, are brought and sold 
in our cities, of an age altogether too young for human 
food. Sometimes they are found not above three days old, 
while the majority of all brought are not ten days old ; and 
this kind of flesh is principally sold throughout our cities, 
especially in those places called " cheap meat shops" or 
" private markets," often by men who purchased it ready 
dressed, and who really do not know whether it is the flesh 
of a dog or calf. 

This fact is shown in a police court, by the testimony pro- 
duced before Justice Perry, of Williamsburg, Long Island, 
which is set forth in the Daily Tribune, April 6, 1855. One 
of the witnesses — George Pessinger — who had been a regu- 
lar butcher for forty years, states that " he saw nine quar- 
ters of plated veal hanging up in a meat-shop in Grand- 
street, which, if the whole nine quarters were tried out, 
after taking away the pork-fat. which the kidneys were 
plated with, enough fat could not be got out to grease a 



BLEEDING ANIMALS. 421 

jackknife. Butchers call this bob-veal. I consider this meat 
verj unwholesome ; it was very young, and had been starved 
either here, or while it was being brought here." 

The defendant wished to procure the Washington Market 
butcher of whom he purchased the flesh, to prove that it 
was good veal. 

" Pessinger asked accused if he knew whether the meat 
in question was veal or dog-meat. The accused answered 
that he ' did not Tcnoiv, but he supposed it must be veal, as he 
bought it for that.' " 

Another instance is worthy of record, in which justice was 
done to a Justice, found in the Herald, March, 1857, and 
headed " Unsound meat venders — justice to New Jersey. — - 

The case of Justice of the Peace D n, from Ramapo, 

N. J., came up for trial. It will be recollected that Justice 
D n was arrested for selling -premature veal in Washing- 
ton Market a few days since, and in the absence of bail to 
the amount of five hundred dollars, was locked up in the 
Tombs. He plead guilty to the charge. Judge Russell 
was disposed to send him up for the term of thirty days, 
but upon the representation that Esquire D n had al- 
ready suffered great loss in this transaction — 1st, the veal, 
valued by him at sixty dollars ; 2d, time, five days in the 
Tombs ; 3d, twenty-five dollars which he paid to certain 
! Tombs' skinners or ' shysters,' who pledged to procure him 
bail, and of course failed to redeem their pledges. His 
Honor, Judge Russell, after giving him unmistakable as- 
surance that a repetition of the offence would demand the 
severest penalty of the law, let him off with a fine of 
twenty-five dollars, which he promptly paid. Justice 

D n , after congratulating himself and friends upon his 

safe deliverance from the Tombs, took the cars for his rural 
home in Ramapo." 

No calf should be permitted to be sold (for veal) until it is 
four weeks old ; again, more care should be bestowed on 
the feeding and conveying them from place to place. 

Many country people, however, carry them in a proper 



422 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

manner ; that is, untied in a pen placed on wagon-wheels, 
which plan should be employed in our cities, either by the 
large dealers or the cartmen, who would be patronized by 
those, at least, who had a spark of humanity towards dumb 
animals. 

I have known sheep to have been similarly bled, and 
even have heard of lambs having also been bled. This, I 
believe, is now seldom done in this country, In England, 
however, it appears much practised, and lately I read of a 
butcher having been arrested at Oxford for " cruelty to 
animals," and fined five pounds, with one pound costs. The 
cruelty stated was, the butcher " having possessed himself 
of the knife, he seized the head of one of the lambs and 
made a deep incision under each of its eyes. The knife 
was blunt, and the blood not flowing freely at first, defend- 
ant again applied the knife, drawing it across the creature's 
face several times, until the blood spirted out in a stream. 
The same operation was repeated on the other lambs, one 
of which fainted from the loss of blood," etc. The butcher 
said in his defence " there was no cruelty at all in the act 
complained of, in proof of which he had practised it him- 
self for nearly forty years." He added, " that if these ani- 
mals were not bled in the manner complained of, the flesh 
would not look so white as some carcasses to which he di- 
rected the officer's attention." 

Ram mutton is generally of a dark color, and I have often 
seen them bled in this manner to whiten the meat, so that 
it would appear like wether mutton ; this, however, is a 
cruel way of torturing before killing the animal. As I have 
before observed, this bleeding practice is almost discon- 
tinued. I am happy to say few respectable butchers are 
now guilty of this cruelty. It is a wrong and barbarous 
act, which secures nothing but whiteness or presumed hand- 
some-colored meats, at the expense of weight and the fine 
sweet juices which make the sappy, sweet-flavored, and 
wholesome meats. 



COOKS AND COOKEEY. 423 



COOKS AND COOKERY. 

It was the saying of some ancient Epicurean philosopher 
" that eating is the chief end of man." If this view be 
correct, and we will admit that it is correct, so that the 
subject of cooks and cookery can be here illustrated by 
another popular axiom, that the Almighty sends us meats 
and his Satanic majesty sends us cooks. As a rule, our 
readers will admit this to be a truism. The object, then, of 
good cookery is paramount to the happiness of man. To 
this end good cooks become a necessity, and no doubt 
would be, and are, highly estimated when possessed. We, 
unlike people of other nations, call cooks cooks, and nothing 
else. We do not recognize them by the name of artists. 
To a certain extent, however, they are artists — artists ca- 
tering to the internal, contra-distinguishing those artists 
who appeal to the externals. 

The extent of attributes, invention, practical experience, 
genius, taste, are all to be found in cooks of the first 
class. Cookery has become so important an art, that the 
highest order of cooks are acknowledged as well as admitted 
as one holding an honorable and important position in 
society. 

An eminent author says : " No person can be a good cook 
who is not at the same time a chemist, a botanist, a physi- 
ologist, a draughtsman, and even something of a geome- 
trician. Independent of these required requisites, he had 
need be endowed with many natural gifts ; for he must have 
a keen scent, a delicate sense of taste and touch, with a 
quick ear, else he will ever be liable to be deceived as to the 
state and maturing of meats, the due seasoning of ragouts, 
the doneness of the boiled and roast, the stewing of the 
viands, the condition of the various pastes. It is of the last 
importance, therefore, that a cook should be perfect in his 
corporeal senses, and ready in his mental ones." 



424 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

" A master cook ! why he's the man of men 
For a professor. He designs, he draws, 
He paints, he carves, he builds, he fortifies, 
Makes citadels of curious fowl and fish. 



" Some he dry-dishes, some motes round with broth, 
Mounts marrow-bones, cuts fifty-angled custards, 
Rears bulwark pies, and for his outer works 
He raiseth ramparts of immortal crusts !" — Ben Jonson. 

Some families are fortunate in securing good cooks, while 
hundreds complain daily of having bad ones; and their 
usual complaints are : " We cannot get them ; they are not 
to be had, even at very high wages. We look through the 
advertisements in the daily papers, and numbers we find 
which, from description, are just the thing we want ; so we 
note down in our memoranda some ten or twenty of those 
who are ' to be seen between the hours of twelve and two — 
for two days.' When we look over our list they appear 
so scattered, that we feel almost discouraged ; but their 
advertisements read so well — just such as we want exactly — 
that we expect the first visited will suit us. 

" Our start is made, and we run ourselves up and down a 
half-dozen ' third-story back rooms,' from one side of the 
town to the other, in the most filthy places of our city ; in 
fact, so filthy that we would prefer almost anybody to cook 
for us rather than take up with persons that advertise in 
such quarters, their boarding and lodging retreats ; finally 
we are worn down, sick, and tired almost to death, without 
the possibility of being suited. As a last resort, we then 
apply at the Intelligence office, and find it crowded with 
some fifty or a hundred servants. Ten or fifteen good cooks 
are presented to us that ' can come well recommended.' 
We question them as to their knowledge, etc., and find they 
know something ; but they, in turn, like the ' advertisers,' 
want to know how large the family is, how many afternoons 
and evenings they can have in the week, what nights they 
can have a ' little compamy,' what perquisites are allowed, 






COOKS AND COOKERY. 425 

etc. The first six girls will also tell you that there is work 
enough in your family for one or two assistants (besides 
your other help) ; others will say they have always been 
allowed two or more afternoons in a week, etc., etc. ; and 
finally they will dwindle down to one, which you in despair 
conclude to try for one week. The first day she has a steak 
to cook. She puts it down- to broil over a miserable, poor, 
hard-coal fire, where it is left to dry up (instead of cooking), 
when, by the time dinner is ready, the steak having pre- 
viously passed through the process of what they call broil- 
ing, has been placed in the oven to keep hot until ready to 
be served. At the table it is brought before the carver, 
who enters upon his duties ; he commences by complaining 
of his dull knife, and by the time he has served all, the 
' dull knife' complaint has become general all around the 
table, until some one discovers that it is the steak— & tough 
steak — dry, insipid, tasteless ; and all now believe that the 
fault is alone in the steak. Then the butcher ' takes it,' not 
on, but behind, his back, and it may be with truth that he 
is the guilty individual. But the good cook will certainly 
know whether the steak is tough or not before it is laid on 
a bed of hot coals." If she finds it a really tough steak, 
she will have the rough-faced mallet to work until she is 
satisfied that there will not be much complaint when it is 
served up direct from the quick fire and the gridiron. It 
is not alone the steak, but to all joints of meat, more es- 
pecially corned beef, that this language applies. Corned 
beef seldom if ever is properly cooked. I here illustrate 
an instance where such complaints as here mentioned came 
from two of our most respectable families. The complaint 
came from the family of the married daughter, in relation 
to corned beef. I was repeatedly told that I gave to her 
father's family better corned beef than to the daughter. I 
wished to impress her mind such was not the case ; that 
the apparent inferiority of the corned beef supplied to her 
was caused by inferior cookery ! " That," she said, " could 
not be, as their cook was old, experienced, and a very good 



426 THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 

one." I replied, " The next piece of corned beef you re- 
ceive send it to your father's cook, and let her prepare it 
for you." Previous to this I had (from these causes of 
complaint) taken two of the same kind of pieces, and from 
the same animal, and arranged it so that they both had 
their corned beef near at the same time. The usual report 
came back, that the father's meat was excellent, and that of 
the daughter very indifferent. Not long after this, the 
daughter, making her marketing, frankly confessed to me, 
" I begin to think that it is not so much the fault with your 
corned beef, as it is in the cooking of it. I ate of your 
corned beef, which I sent to my father's yesterday, and 
there had it cooked ; it was perfectly delicious. In fact, I 
always get good corned beef there." " Yes," I rejoined, 
" they have a good cook there, especially for preparing 
corned beef." 

I was once informed by an old patron how he and his 
wife learned tc cook corned beef. He said : " Soon after we 
were married, some 30 years ago, I had a job of carpenter 
work to do on Staten Island, which required some three or 
four hands to complete, and as we could not work the regu- 
lar hours, in consequence of having to conform to the ferry- 
boats' time of leaving at both ends of the route — that is, to 
go down with the first boat in the morning and leave with 
the last in the evening — which made the hours of work be- 
tween eight, A. M., and four, p. M., so that we had only time 
enough to make a hasty meal at noon, and then continue 
until the time for the last boat. Well, as I had to furnish 
this hasty meal, I thought it best to have a piece of corned 
beef boiled that night, so that we could carry a part with 
us. A good-sized piece was procured, and it was quite late 
before it began to boil ; my wife, however, not being very 
well, retired to bed, and as I had been hard to work all day, 
two hours watching the pot and beef began to tell upon me, 
and I concluded to lay down and leave a slow fire under the 
pot, not thinking, however, but I would wake up about the 
time it was done ; or, I concluded if it did cook pretty well 



COOKS AND COOKERY. 427 

it would do no harm ; and sure enough, it must have sim- 
mered slowly until the fire went out, perhaps some seven or 
eight hours. We awoke early, and the first thought was of 
the meat in the pot, with the conclusion that it would be all 
in pieces, or else soggy and tasteless ; it was, however, lifted 
out whole, and being almost cold, it was cut and tasted ; we 
found it to be tender, sweet, and juicy, and my men thought, 
as well as all who tasted it that day, that never was eaten 
such a delicious piece of corned beef. Since that time my 
corned beef, hams, tongues, or any kind of salted meat in- 
tended to boil, is put over early and left to slowly boil or 
simmer a long time, and after it is done the pot is lifted off 
the fire, when the meat is allowed to cool in the pot from 
twenty minutes to half an hour. Following this process we 
always have good boiled meat, and so say all our friends who 
sit at my table and partake of them." 

Very many of our good cooks, if asked " if they know how 
to cook a potato ?" " Why, yes ; anybody can cook a po- 
tato !" they most indignantly reply ; but when their capa- 
bility is tested (it may not be the first or the second day) 
the potatoes will be found either underdone, or overdone, 
spoiled by being too hard, or heavy, or soggy and watery — 
when this good cook will tell you the potatoes have been 
boiled the usual time. 

My experience informs me that a cook knowing how and 
always cooking potatoes well, that she will generally be 
found a tolerable good plain cook, she having then at least 
the character of watchfulness and ordinary judgment, two 
qualifications very essential to the cook. 

Cruikshank, in his " Omnibus," gives some humorous re- 
marks, while relating the trouble in obtaining a good cook, 
He says : " We have just had another new cook ; but too 
sure I am that, like the whole "tribe of cooks that enter our 
f amily, she will never pass the boundaries of the cognomen 
of new cook. All our cooks have been new. The oldest 
one we have ever had, in my remembrance, was a prodigy 
of a month's service in our kitchen ; and although it must 



428 THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 






be confessed that, even during that period, she was twice 
threatened or warned by my mother, her long stay was as- 
tonishing to us all. Compared with her predecessors she 
was quite a fixture in the house. 

" It would take up too much room to detail one-half of 
the discrepancies of our cooks. One, as my maiden aunt 
delicately observes, becomes quite inebriated — off she goes. 
Another has followers — off she goes. Another increases her 
kitchen stuff, at the expense of the fat of the meat, which 
she cuts off to a nicety (and my father is particularly fond of 
fat) — off she goes. Another cannot cook a potato — off she 
goes. Another forms a clandestine match with the butler 
after a week's intimacy — off she goes— he, too, falling a vic- 
tim and losing his place. 

" When I say that my mother seldom overlooks the first 
offence, I explain . pretty clearly how it is that every week 
finds us with a new cook. On the day of their engagement, 
my sanguine parent invariably tells us she has found a trea- 
sure ; a cook with such a character — never drinks — no fol- 
lowers — so honest — can cook any thing — such a woman for 
making made-up (sometimes called French) dishes, etc. In 
a few days this treasure of a cook turns out to be, without 
a single exception, the very worst we ever had to endure 
(for it rather singularly happens that each in succession is 
the very worst). ' Oh, that dreadful woman !' is the cry. She 
boils what she should roast, and roasts what she should boil ; 
she is a snuff-taker, and almost every thing she cooks is sup- 
posed to savor of Lundy-foot or Prince's mixture — off she goes, 
before we find out a fair half of her intolerable propensities. 

" The last treasure we had only cooked our dinner on one 
day ! She must have been a practitioner in some wholesale 
cooking establishment — cook to an ordinary on a grand 
scale, where dinner for a hundred and forty was daily pre- 
pared. We had to dine on cold meat for a week after she 
left us. You must know, that, on the first day of her instal- 
ment in office, the butcher had been directed (we live a few 
miles from town, and at a distance from any market-place) 



COOKS AND COOKERY. 429 

to send us a supply of animal food sufficient to last for 
about eight days. There were a leg of mutton, a saddle of 
mutton, a sirloin of beef, a round of beef, and various other 
small knick-knacks for side-dishes. Well, my dear, credu- 
lous mother received the new cook as usual. She found her 
to be a most enormous treasure ; and she can, at this day, 
make affidavit, if necessary, that she gave her the proper 
directions about the dinner. On the day the circumstances 
I am about to relate took place, we had merely the family 
at dinner. On entering the dining-room, I observed my 
mother gently start, as her eye encountered a great number 
of large dishes round the table. She, however, suppressed 
her astonishment, took her place at the head of the table 
(my father never carved), said grace, and was sinking slowly 
into her chair as the servant raised the first cover. My 
mother instantly started up, exclaimed in a tone of alarm, 
and with turned-up eyes, ' Mercy on us ! the leg of mutton !' 
All eyes turned in a moment upon the uncovered mutton, 
and then on my agitated mother. The servant, after a 
pause, laid his hand upon the second cover, upon which my 
mother had bent her looks. Up . went the cover, amidst 
curling wreaths of steam. 'Good gracious! look at the 
sirloin!' cried my mother. "We all looked accordingly at 
the sirloin, but without discovering in it any thing peculiarly 
different from other sirloins. The removal of the next cover 
exhibited the round of beef : another exclamation from my 
mother. We now all commenced staring, first at the joints, 
then at mj mother, and then at each other. We certainly 
began to think, when a fourth joint had appeared in view, 
that there ivas 'something wrong.' A pause ensued; my 
father broke it. - In the name of wonder,' said he, ' what's 
the matter ?' ' O that new cook !' answered my mother, with 
a groan. ' What has she done ?' inquired my father. ' The 
whole toeek's marketing!' said my mother, sinking into a chair, 
for she had been standing all this time." 

Many families, hotels, steamboats, etc., leave all their 
household and other accounts, as well as the choosing 




430 THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 

tradesmen, in the hands of their stewards, housekeepers, 
waiters, cooks, or other help. Many of these make it a rule 
to select such tradesmen only who, by them, are either com- 
pelled or voluntarily pay them bribes (or vails, as they are 
called in England), sometimes to very large amounts, to re- 
tain them as their customers. For such perquisites to the 
servants, of course, the employers are overcharged to make 
up the amounts paid. 

Then, again, the help is generally complimented in kind or 
pay, in proportion to the amount of the bills — that is, the 
greater the amount of the bills, the greater the bribe is 
given. The consequence of all this is, that such kind of 
help will manage to consume or waste, as much as possible, 
the various articles, in order to receive a bribe in due pro- 
portion to their consumption. This bribing custom has 
been introduced by the foreign airs and foreign practices of 
our foreign help, who have introduced and taught their art 
and usage from the large cities of Europe, and who, absurd 
as it may appear, will not employ any of ' onr respectable fami- 
lies, unless they are permitted to act the financial medium 
between them and their trades-people. These foreign 
gargons must select the grocer, the butcher, the baker, the 
poulterer, the fishermen, etc., and of course those tradesmen 
are selected who have the most elastic consciences and 
purses, and who will faithfully screen the servant's rascali- 
ties and merited disgrace. 

While showing up the dishonesty of our foreign help, per- 
haps it may not be deemed impertinent to the point to show 
the modus operandi of those who encourage in this respect 
the servant's dishonesty. A respectable and conscientious 
cook, in whom her employers had the utmost confidence, 
informed me that a butcher close by my stand had offered 
her a ten-dollar bill to induce her employer to trade with 
him : finding that he could not bribe her to trade with him, 
he attempted to pass off the proposition as a joke ; but as 
similar attempts had been made by him upon other ser- 
vants with success, he was treated accordingly. 



COOKS AND COOKERY. 431 

The worst feature befalling these persons in such cases 
is, that although these dealers may occasionally be success- 
ful in inducing servants to change trades-people by such 
discreditable means'resorted to, yet sooner or later, they are 
apt to be discovered, and then the trader or family is not 
only lost to both the new as well as the old dealers, and very 
often the market also ; as many conscience-stricken do not 
like to be seen changing from one dealer to another, they of 
course do not wish to acknowledge their mistakes by re- 
turning to their old places of dealing. The fact is there are 
heads of many families who are not aware of the iniquity 
and injury done by many of these named dealers, with their 
foreign aids and domestic help. My evidence, however, is 
now in relation to the two latter, proceeding with several 
instances from my experience of the peculiar help, which 
many families have found, to their cost, more plentiful than 
those of the more faithful. 

The family of a prominent merchant, residing in the Fifth 
Avenue, for several years had dealt satisfactorily, I believe, 
with the author. This family was fortunate ! enough in se- 
curing the services of foreign help (respectively cook and 
waiter), in the persons of man and his wife. The wife (cook) 
was supplied with a pass-book to market with, and thereby 
not having the opportunity of cheapening, or purchasing 
articles of inferior qualities, and pocketing the difference in 
her favor, as if she had been supplied with the ready money 
daily to make the market purchases ; but at the end of the 
month, when the monthly bill was paid by her, she demand- 
ed "percentage" as she called it, for herself. " What do you 
mean by percentage ?" I demanded. " Why," she says, " I 
mean five per cent., of course, on all butchers' bills, and 
other tradesmens' bills, as are allowed in England." " Well, 
to be sure," I replied, " as yet we have not, in this country, 
arrived at that state of tradesmen's perfection in trading 
with servants, when we shall have to rob the employer to 
bribe the servants with Jive per cent, on their bills when they 
are paid. If your employer does not pay you wages enough 

25 



432 THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 

ask him for more ; but you cannot introduce those terms 
here."* She was highly indignant, and flounced away with 
a threat that she would not patronize me again ; and she did 
not. Soon after she was successful in finding a place .to 
trade, where, I suppose, she received her Jive per cent 

In a note to her employer (with whom I was not person- 
ally acquainted ; he, as many other heads of families, never 
go to market), I informed him of the circumstances. The 
note was not answered, and I felt as if their absence, under 
the circumstances, was more profitable and satisfactory to 
me than their custom, so long as they countenanced the dis- 
honesty of their help. 

The following presents another phase. The cook of one 
of my patrons, who had been dealing with me twelve or 
fourteen years, who once in a while came to me for her 
marketing, about Christmas time gave me several hints 
that something from me was expected for her " Christ- 
mas-box." Christmas came, and with it her importunities. 
" Well, what can I give you ?" I asked. She replied " that 
their trade was large, and it was by her repeated interces- 
sion or I would have lost it long ago," and finished up the 
unblushing demand, that she could not expect less from me 
than a ten-dollar gold piece ! " Now," I observed, " do you 
think that I would be doing right to present you with this 
amount of money? If so, then I ought not to give less 
than one hundred others, who have the same right to ask 
from me the same amount as you have demanded." 

This reasoning did not strike her with sufficient force to 
satisfy her. Before she left she had reduced her demand to 
a five-dollar gold piece as a ' Christmas-box' gift. I am 
pleased to put it on record, she did not get it. As she 
was leaving, she gave me to understand that it was the last 
month the family would patronize me. I paid no attention 
to her threat. About two weeks after this incident I had a 

* On one occasion an employer, being informed of his servant's act, val- 
uing lier services, authorized me to pay the percentage and add the same to 
his bill. 



COOKS AND COOKERY. 433 

visit from (the lady) the head of the family, who told me 
the meats I sent her were not so good as those formerly 
sent, that her cook complained very much about the quality, 
etc. I told the lady that I expected to have heard . this 
complaint before, and I also told her about the demand for 
a " Christmas-box" — and further, that I must decline serv- 
ing her so long as she kept that cook, as she would spoil 
every joint of meat I should send her, unless she was 
watched. In a few days the lady sent me word that she had 
changed her cook. 

Another instance of a character different from this oc- 
curred a few years ago. A young (and no doubt a happy) 
couple commenced their career in marketing by dealing 
with me. As their family (of course) was not large, they 
often had a small steak or a few chops. The young hus- 
band (as he had, jokingly, once or twice before) observed to 
me, " "Why don't you send me some tenderloin in our steaks ? 
— we always have it when we dine out.'* " I generally do," 
I replied, " when you order such." " Well, but we don't 
get it," he rejoined. " Then there must be some wrong 
with my help or your cook," I continued. " I will send you 
a steak to-day, with a good tenderloin in it ;" which tender- 
loin I marked in his presence, which I requested him to see 
whether his cook or anybody else cut any of it off, before 
it was placed on the table. He went home and informed 
his wife of the intended watch on the tenderloin, "When the 
steak was served, lo ! the tenderloin was missing, and he in- 
formed me that the cook shortly after was also missing. 

The following squib offers another feature of similar 
doings. A gentleman addressed his servant, "James, I 
have always placed the greatest confidence in you ; now 
tell me, James, how is it that my butcher's bills are so large, 
and that I always have such bad dinners ?" " Eeally, sir, 
I don't know, for I am sure we never have any thing nice in 
the kitchen, that we don't send some of it up in the parlor" 



INDE X 

TO THE VARIOUS JOINTS AND OTHER PARTS USED IN THE 
DOMESTIC OR TAME ANIMALS. 



Animal for Beef, figure of an, 35. 
for Mutton, " 67. 
for Pork, 79, " 82. 
for Veal, 60. 
Bacon, the parts of the Hog used for, 99, 100. 

Flitch of, and the origin of, 99, 100. 
Baron of Beef, 37. 

the Boasting of the, 39. 
Barrow Pigs for Pork, 77. 
Beef, Aitch or Edge Bone of, 36, 51. 

Best Chuck-rib of, 36, 55. 

Boler piece, 36. 

Bones, 91. 

Brisket of, 57. 

Buffalo Heifer or Half Bison, 58, 59. 

Bull, character of, 30, 36. 

Bullock for, 29. 

Butt-end of Brisket of, 36. 

Buttock of, 51. 

Carcass of, 32. 

Choice Animal for, 35. 

Chuck of; 53, 55. 

Chuck-piece of, 36. 

Chuck-rib cut of, 36. 

Chuck Steaks, 57. 

Clod of, 36, 57, 58. 

Cooking Corned, 426, 427. 

Corned and Salted, 97. 

Cow, character of, 30, 31 

Cross-rib of, 36, 53, 57. 

Edge, or H. Bone of, 36, 51. 

Fat, what produces, 28, 29. 

Face Rump of, 36, 50. 

Figure of an Animal for, 35. 

Filet-de-Bceuf or Fillet of, 40, 41, 48. 

First Chuck-rib of, 36. 

First Cut Neck of, 36. 

First Cut Chuck-rib of, 36, 55 

First Cut-rib of, 36, 53. 

First Rib-cut of, 36. 

First Cut, round of, 36, 5x. 

Prime Rib of, 36. 

Flank, 36. 

Flank-piece of, 36. 

Fore-quarter, to cut the, 52. 

Fore-rib of, 36. 

Free Marten. 29. 

Half-Bison, 58, 59. 

Heifer for, 29, 30. 



Beef, Hind and fore-quarters of, 32. 
Hind-quarter, cutting up the, 39. 
Hip Sirloin of, 36, 41. 
Hook-bone of, 36. 
How to make tender, 109. 
Jerked, 29, 98. 
Leg of, 36, 52. 

Leg-of-mutton piece of, 36, 57. 
Leg-ran of, 36. 
Middle Ribs of, 36, 54. 
Middle Cut, Sirloin of, 40. 
Navel end of Brisket of, 36. 
Navel-pieces of, 36, 53, 57. 
Neat Cattle for, 29, 30. 
Neck-cut of, 36. 
Neck-pieces of, 36, 57. 
Ox, character of, 80, 31. 
Ox, tails of, 89, 
Pinbone-Sirloin of, 86. 
Plate-piece of, 36, 53, 57. 
Quarters of, 32. 

Rattle-ran, or Runner-piece of, 86, 53, 57. 
Round of, 36, 51. 
Rump-piece or Rump of, 36. 
Scotch Roll of, 57. 
Second Chuck-rib of, 36. 
Second-cut Chuck-rib of, 36, 56 
Second-cut Neck-piece of, 36. 
Second- cut Rib of, 36, 52, 54. 
Second-cut Round of, 36, 51. 
Second prime Ribs of, 36. 
Shank or Shin of, 36, 58. 
Shoulder-Clod of, 36, 57, 58. 
Shoulder-of-mutton piece of, 36. 
Side of, 32. 

Sirloin of (origin of the name), 82, 36, 39. 
Small-end Sirloin of, 36, 
Smoking pieces of, 51. 
Socket piece of, 36, 50. 
Spayed Heifer for, 29, 30. 
Stag Beef, character of, 29, 31. 
Stall-fed, 28, 29. 
Steak, the origin of, 41, 
Steer for, 29. 

Sticking piece of, 5S. ^ 

Tail-end Rump of, 36. 
Tenderloin of, 40, 41, 48. 
Thick end of Brisket of, 36. 
Thick-end of Neck of, 36. 



436 



THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 



Beef, Thick-end of Sirloin of, 41. 
Thick-end of Flank of, 36. 
Thin-end of Brisket of, 36, 53, 5T. 
Third-cut Rib of, 36, 54 
Third prime Rib of, 36. 
Third-Rib cut of, 36. 
Top of Sirloin of, 36, 52. 
Various names to joints, 36. 
Beeves' Bones, 91. 
Brains, 90. 
Bung-gut, 90. 
Casins, 90. 
Fat (difference between tallow fad), S7, 

88. 
Gall. 90. 
Gut-fat, 8T. 
Heads, 88. 
Heart. 87. 
Kidney, 87. 
Liver, 86. 
Marrow, 88. 
Marrow-bones, 88. 
or Cattle's Feet, 90. 
or Cows' Udder, 88. 
Palates. 89. 
Suet, 87. 

Sweet-breads and Skirts, 89. 
Tongue, 85. 
Udder, 88. 
Blood Puddings, 104, 105. 
Bologna Sausages, 102. 
Bones of all kinds, 91. 
Brawn (collar of), 105. 
Buffalo Heifer or Half Bison, 58, 59. 
Bung-gut (its use), 90. 
Calf, figure of the, 60. 
Calves' Brains, 92. 

Chitterlings, 92. 
Entrails and Fat, 92. 
Eyes, 92. 
Feet, 64, 92. 
Haslet or Liver, 64, 92. 
Head (and Feet), 60, 64, 91, 92 
Heart, 92, 
Kidneys, 92. 
Liver (see Haslet), 92. 
Melt, 92. 

Not fit for food, 420, 421. 
Sweet-breads, 64, 91. 
Tongues, 92. 
Cattle, the best for Beef, 29. 

Feet, 90, 91. 
Cheeks, or Chops, 102. 
Chitterlings, or Calves, entrails and fat, 92. 
Collar of Brawn, 105. 
Corn-fed Pork, the character of, 28. 
Cow Beef, 31. 
Cow Heels, 90. 

Domestic, or Tame Animals, 26. 
Face Rump, or Socket-piece, 50. 
Fat Beef, what produces, 28, 29. 
Filet-de-Bosuf, or Tenderloin, 40, 41, 48. 
Goat's Flesh, 84. 

Grass-fed Beef, the character of, 28. 
Gut-fat, used by the Jews, 19. 
Haggis, Scotch, to make, 94, 95. 
Hams and Shoulders, curing of Pork, 99, 101, 

108. 
Head-cheese, 104 

Hogs, best for various purposes, 77, 78. 
Casins, how used, 90. 
Figures showing how to cut up, 79, 80, 81, 

52. 
for Bacon, 83. 



Hogs, for barrelling, 83. 

Varieties of, 76, 77. 
Lamb, best kind, and how to choose it, T3, 74. 

Bleeding, the cruelty of, 422. 

Brains, 93. 

Buck, 73. 

Carcass of, 75. 

Ewe, 73. 

Fashion, or a Sheep dressed, 76. 

Fore-quarter of, 76. 

House, or Spring, 73, 74. 

Leg of, 75. 

Loin of, 76. 

Staten Island, 76. 

Wether, 73. 

Yearling, 73. 
Lambs' Brains, 93. 



Eyes, 93. 

Fry's, and Sweet-breads, 93. 
Guts, or Casins, 94. 
Haslet, or Pluck, 93. 
Head, or Tups' Head, 93. 
Hind-quarter of, 75. 
Kidney, and Kidney-fat, 74, 93. 
Melt, 94 
Tongues, 93. 
Trotters, 94 
Lard, 103. 

Leaf, 96. 
Liver, Calves', or Pluck, 92. 
Beeves', 86. 
Lambs', or Pluck, 93 
Sheep's, or Pluck, 93. 
Marrow-bones, 88. 

Meats, a quick mode of curing, 107. 
Biscuit, 106, 
Corned and salted, 97. 
Cured in different ways, 97, 98, 99. 
Fly-blown, 108, 109. 
Frozen, or Poultry, 109. 
Hung, or how to preserve, 27, 107, 416, 

418. 
Parts we use from Domestic Animals, 
85. 
. Seasons for the best, 27, 28. 
Stall-fed, 28. 
Tainted, or Game, 108. 
Time for Salting, 97. 
Used for various purposes, 97. 
Wild, 110, 111. 
Winded, or Blown, 74 75. 
Melts, Calves', Sheep's, and Lambs', 92, 94 
Mutton, Breast of, 67, 69, 73. 

Carcass of, 68, 69, 70. 

Chines of, 69, 70. 

Choosing the best, 67. 

Chops, 70, 71. 

Christmas-killing, 68. 

Corned, 98. 

English, and Chops, 66, 71. 

Flank of, 67. 

Fore-quarter, 69, 71. 

Fore-saddle. 69. 

French Chops, 72, 73. 

French Cotelette, 72, 73. 

Gormandizer, 72. 

Hind saddle, 69. 

Leg of, 67, 69, 71. 

Loin of, 67, 70. 

Neck of, 67, 73. 

Two fore-quarters, 69. 

Ram, its character, 67. 

Rib-chops, 72, 73. 



INDEX. 



437 



Mutton, Saddle-chops, 69. 
Saddle of, 68, 69. 
Scrag of, 6T, 69, 73. 
Sbeep producing the best, 65. 
Shoulder of, 67, 72. 
Wether, 65. 
Ox, A jewelled, 34. 

Beef, the character of, 31. 
Eyes, 90. 

Feet, or Cow-heels, 89, 90. 
Mow, 88. 

or Cow's Teeth, 90. 
Boasting, non-success of, 32. 33. 
Boasting, " Olden Time," 33. 
Tails, 89. 

The richest gift to man, 26. 
Pemmican, 105, 106. 
Pigs, 76, 77. 

Barrow, 77. 
Ears, 96. 

Feet, 79, 81, 82, 83. 
Haslet, 96. 
Head, 79, 80, 96. 
Hocks, 96. 
Kidneys, 96. 

Leaf-fat, or Leaf-lard, 96. 
Pate, or Skull, 96. 
Boasting, 76. 
Shoat, 77. 
Sow, 77. 
Tongue, 96. 
Pluck, or Haslet, 96. 
Pork, 76, 77, 78. 

Back Fat, 82, 98. 
Boar-Hog for,. 77. 
Brisket of, 79, 81, 82, 83, 98. 
Carcass of, 78, 79, 80, 81. 
Carcass, cutting up, 78, 79, SO, 81. 
Cheeks, 82, 83, 96. 
Chine of, 79. 

Chops, or Cheeks of, 82, 83, 96. 
Clear, 98. 

Corned, or Salted, 98, 
Flank of, 79, 82, 83. 
Fore-quarters of, 79, 81. 
Hind-quarters of, 79, 81. 
Hocks of, 79. 
Hog, how fed, 78. 
How to choose, 77. 
Leaf-fat of, 83. 

Leg of, or fresh Ham, 79, 82, 83. 
Loin and Loin-pieces, T9, 82, 83. 
Measley, 84. 
Neck-pieces of, 82. 
- Pate, or Skull of, 82, 83. 
Shoulder of, 82, 83. 
Bib, and Chine-pieces of, 82, 83. 
Sow-Hogs for, 77. 
Stag-Hogs for, 77. 
Tail-piece of, 82. 
Tenderloins, 81, 83. 
Porterhouse Steaks, 45. 

origin of, 45. 
Puddings, 104, 105. 

Blood, 104, 105. 
Common, 104, 105. 
opio,-.., .? 1,105. 
Rennet, t— * ...> prepare, 106. 
Rolliches, how to prepare, 102. 
"Royal Baron of Beef," 37. 
Rump of Beef, 50. 



Rump, Steak of Boston and Philadelphia, 40. 
Sausages, 103, 104 

Bologna, 102. 
Country, 103, 104. 
Scotch Haggis, 94, 95, 96. 

Ham, 51. 
Sheep, bleeding, 422. 

Buck, or Ram, 65. 
Cosset, 65. 
Ewe, 65. 
Stag, 65. 

Various breeds of, 66. 
Sheeps' Brains, 93. 
Eyes, 9a 

Haslet, or Pluck, 93. 
Heads, 93. 
Kidneys, 93. 
Melt, 94. 

Paunch, or Stomach, 94. 
Suet, 93. 
Tongues, 93. 
Trotters, 94 
Shoats, or Porkers, 77. 
Shoulders, Pork, 101. 
Sirloin, 36. 

Hip, 36, 41. 
Middle-cut, 36, 40. 
Origin of the word, 39. 
Pinbone, 36. 
Small-end, 36, 45. 
Thick-end, 36, 41. 
Thin-end, 40. 
Top of, 36. 

Steaks, Flat-bone, 41, 43. 
Steaks, Hip, 41, 42. 
Steaks, Round-bone, 41, 44. 
Small Loin, or Porterhouse Steaks, 45, 46. 
Stag-Bullock for Beef, 31, 32. 
Spayed Heifer for Beef, 29, 30. 31. 
Stall-fed Beef, 28. 
Steaks, Chuck, 57. 
Broiling, 44 
Rump, 40. 
Small Loin, 45, 46. 

Various kinds of, 34 35, 40, 41, 44, 45, 46, 
57, 59. 
Suet, how to judge good, 31. 
Sweet-breads, Calves, Throat and Heart, 64. 
Tallow, the difference between fat and. 87, 83. 
Tenderloin, or Filet-de-Bceuf, 48. 

the missing, 433. 
Top of Sirloin, 52. 

Tripe, different parts and names of, 88, S9. 
Udder, Beeves' or Cows', 88. 
Veal, best Calf for, 59,60. 
Breast of, 60, 64 
Chops, 62. 

Chump-end, Loin, 62. 
Cutlets, 62. 
Fillet of, 62. 
Fore-quarter of, 63. 
Hind- quarter of, 61. 
How to judge good, 61. 
Kidney end"ofLoin, 62. 
Knuckle of, 62, 63. 
Leg of, 60, 62. 
Loin of, 60, 62. 
Neck of, 60, 64. 
Shoulder of. 60, 63. 
Thick-end Loin of, 62. 
Unwholesome, 419, 420, 421. 



438 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



WILD ANIMALS. 



Antelope, American, or Prong-Horn, 120. 

Badger, 132. 

Bay Lynx, see Wild-Cat, 129. 

Bear, Black, 124, 125. 

Meat, or B'ar, 124, 125. 

Eemarkable escape from a, 126, 127. 

White, killed in Pennsylvania, 125, 126. 
Bears killed at various places, 110, 124, 125, 126, 

127. 
Beaver, 131. 

Big-Horn, or Mountain Sheep, 120, 121. 
Bison, or Buffalo meat, 112, 113. 
Black- Tailed, or Mule Deer, 118. 
Buck, see Deer, 160. 
Buffalo, or Bison meat, 112, 113. 
Brains. 114. 
Hump, 113,114. 
Liver, 114. 
Marrowbones, 114. 
Tongue, 114. 
Canada Lynx, see Wild-Cat, 129. 
Caribou, or American Reindeer, 118. 
Cavy, or Guinea- Pig, 123. 
Deer, Black-Tailed, or Mule, 118. 

Common, or Virginia, or Buck, 114, 160. 

Hunting the, 116. 

Large Buck, 115. 

Transfixed, 116. 

Snapping-Turtlo fastened to a, 115, 116. 

Virginia, see Common Deer, 114, 116, 160. 
Elk, or Wapiti, 116, 117. 

Team, 117. 
Fox, 110. 

Game, Wild Animals called, 109 
Goat, Rocky Mountain, 121. 

Tame, see page 84. 
Gray Hare, see Rabbit, 122. 
Ground-Hog, or Woodchuck, 129, 130. 
Guinea-Pig, or Cavy, 123. 
Hare, curious incident of protection, 121, 122. 






Hare, Gray, or Common Rabbit, 122. 

Northern, or White, 110, 121. 
Lynx, Bay and Canada, 129. 
Moose, and Moose-hunting, 118, 119, 120. 
Calf, half, 119. 
Moufle, 119, 
Tongue, 119. 
Mountain Sheep, or Big-Horn, 120, 121. 
Mule, or Black-Tailed Deer, 118. 
Musk- Rat, or Musquash, 132. 
Northern Hare, 121. 
Opossum, 110, 129. 
Otter, 110, 131, 132. 
Panther, 110, 111. 
Porcupine, 130. 

Prong-Horn, or American Antelope, 120. 
Rabbit, or Gray Hare, 122. 
Rabbits, Domestic, or Fancy, 122, 123. 
Raccoon, 110, 127. 

Hunt, An experimental, 127, 128, 129. 
Reindeer, American, or Caribou, IIS. 
Rocky Mountain Goat, 121. 
Skunk, 130, 131. 

Skins, 130. 
Squirrels, Black, 123. 

Cat, 123. 

Flying, 123. 

Emigrating, 123. 

Fox, 123. 

Gray, 110, 123, 124. 

Striped, 110, 123, 124 
Venison, 111, 114, 115, 

Buck, 110, 114, 115, 116. 

Doe, 114. 

Moose, 118, 119, 
Wapiti, or Elk, 116, 117. 
Wild Animals called Game, 109. 
Cat, or Bay Lynx, 129. 
Meats, 110. 
Woodchuck, or- Ground-Hog, 129, 150. 



POULTRY. 



Bantam Fowls, 138. 
Caponed Fowls, 134, 135. 

How to judge, 135. 
Large, 135. 
Turkey, 140. 
Capons, Slips, "or Slip, 135. 
Chickens, 135, 136. 

Spring, or Broilers, 136. 
To judge, from a fowl, 136. 
Cygnet, 142. 

Domesticated Swan, 142. 
Ducks, Various kinds of Tame, 142, 143. 
Fowls, Bantam, 138. 
Caponed, 134. 

Guinea, see Guinea-Fowls, 138. 
Pea, 140. 

The best, 136, 137. 
Fowl, curiosity and a freak of nature, 137, 138. 

To judge a chicken from a, 136. 
Geese, The best, 143. 

Driving to market, 144. 
Green, 145. 
Giblets, 145. 
Goose, An ancient, 143, 144 



Guinea Fowls, or Pintada, 138. 

Pig, see page 123. 
Pea Fowls, 140, 141. 
Pigeons, Fancy, 141, 142 

Squabs, 141, 142.' 

Tame, 141, 142. 

Various kinds, 141. 
Pintada, or Guinea Fowls, 138. 
Poultry, 132, 133. 

How to judge fresh, 134, 185. 

Stale, " manufactured over,"' 13*4. 
Pullets, 135. 

Slips, or Slip-Capons, 135. 
Spring Chickens, or Broilers, 136. 
Squabs. Tame, 141, 142. 
Swan, Domesticated, 142. 

Young, see Cygnets, 142, 
Tame Pigeons, Varieties of, 141. 

Squabs, 142. 
Turkey, Capon, 140. 

Hen and Tom, 188, 139. 

Poults, 140. 
Turkeys, Large, 139, 149. 



INDEX. 



439 



WILD FOWL. 



Brant, or Brent Goose, 149. 

"White, see Snow Goose, 148. 
Duck, American Scoter, or Butter-Bill, 156, 
157. 

American "Widgeon, 150, 153 

Bald Pate, or Face, 150, 153. 

Bastard, Broad-Bill, 153. 

Black, or Dusky, 150, 152. 

Blue-Bill, see Broad-Bill, 153. 

Blue-Winged Teal, 153. 

Brass-Eyed Whistler, see Harlequin, 154. 

Broad-Bill, 153. 

Buff-Breasted, see "Weaser, 154. 

Buffel-Headed, see Dipper, 155. 

Bull-Neck, see Dipper, 150. 

Butter-Ball, see Dipper, 155. 

Canvass-Back, 149, 150, 151. 

Canvass-Back, found in the North River, 
151. 

Coot, see American Scoter, 156, 15T. 

Creek, Broad-Bill, 153. 

Dipper, 155. v 

Dusky, see Black, 151. 

Eider, see Squaw, 155. 

G-adwell, see Gray, 154 

German, see Gray, 154. 

Goosander, see Weaser, 154. 

Golden-Eyed, see Whistler, 155. 

Gray, 154. 

Great-Head, 155. 

Great Northern Diver, see Loon, 157. 

Green- Winged Teal, 153, 154 

Hairy-Head, see Saw-Bill, 156. 

Harlequin, 154, 155. 

Hooded Merganser, see Saw-Bill, 156. 

Hell Diver, 156. 

Horned Grebe, 156. 

Lesser Scaup, see Creek Broad-Bill, 153. 

Long-Tailed, see Old "Wife, 155. 

Loon, Curious incident with a, 157, 158. 

Loon, or Great Northern Diver, 157, 158. 

Lord, see Harlequin, 154. 

Mallard, 150, 152. 

Merganser, see Weaser, 154 

Old Sqna-w, 276, 277. 

Old Wife's difficulty with an American 
angler, 155. 

Pied, see Skunk, 156. 



Duck, Pied Shell-Drake, 156. 

Pin-Tail, Winter, or Sprig-Tail, 154. 
Pochards, 150, 151, 152. 
Red-Heads, 150, 151, 152. 
Eed-Breasted Merganser, see Pied-Shell 

Drake, 156. 
Bing-Necked, see Bastard Broad-Bill, 

153. 
Buddy, see Salt-water Teal, 155. 
Sand Shoal, see Skunk, 156. 
Saw-Bill, 156. 
Scaup, see Broad-Bill, 153. 
Shell-Drake, see Saw-Bill, 156. 
Shoal, see Squaw, 155. 
Shoveller, 150, 154 
Skunk, 156. 

Spectacle, see Surf, 156. 
Spoon Bill, see Shoveller, i50, 154 
Sprig-Tail, see Pin-Tail, 150. 
Squaw, 155, 156. 
Summer, see Wood, 152. 
Surf, 156. 

Tufted, see Bastard Broad-Bill, 156 4 
Velvet, see White-Winged Coot, 156. 
Weaser, 154. 

Welsh Drake, see Gray, 154 
Whistler, 155. 
White-Winged Coot, 156. 
Wild Fowl, called Game, 145. 
Winter, see Pin-Tail, 154 
Wood, or Summer Duck, 152, 153. 
Goose, Brent, or Brant, 149. 

Canada, see Wild Goose, 148. 
Hutchins, 149. 
Mud, 149. 

Snow, or White Brant, 148. 
Wild, 148, 150. 
Swan. Cygnet, 147. 

' Trumpeter, 148. 
Whistling, 147. 
Wild, 147. 
Teal, Blue-Winged, 153. 
Green-Winged, 153. 
Salt-water, 155. 
Widgeon, American, see Bald-Pate Duck, 150, 

153. 
Whistling Swan, see Swan, 147. 
Wild Swan, see Swan, 147. 



BIRDS CALLED GAME. 



American Coot, Hen- Bill, or Mud-Hen, 170. 
Avocet, see Blue-Stocking, 167, 168. 
Bartram's Sand-Piper, 165. 
Beach Bird, see Piping Plover, 165. 
Birds called Game, 145, 158. 

not used as human food, 179, 180. 

which ought to be protected, 146, 147. 
Bittern, American, 172. 
Blackbirds, Various kinds, 176, 177. 
Black-Bellied, or Whistling Plover, 166. 
Black-Breasted Snipe, Winter Snipe, etc., 166. 
Black-Capped Thrush, see Cat-Bird, 178. 

Cock, or Black Grouse, 163. 

Gull, or Black Tern, 170, 171. 



Black-Necked Stilt, or Lawyer, 168. 
Blue-Jay, 177. 

Stocking, or American Avocet 167, 168. 
Water Hen, 170. 
Bobolink, 177, 178. 

Brant Birds, Horse-Foot Snipes, or Turn- 
stone, 165. 
Brown Lark, 169. 

Thrasher, 178. 
Buff-Breasted Sandpiper, 166, 167. 
Bull-Headed, or Beetle-Headed Piover, etc., 

166. 
Bullfinch, see Pine Grosbeak, 179. 
Bunting, Lark, 176. 



440 



THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 



Bunting, Eice, see Keed-Birds, 177. 
Snow, or Ortolans, 176. 
Towhie, see Chewink, 178, 179. 
California Quail, 162. 
Canada Goose, see "Wild Goose, 148. 

Grouse, or Spruce Partridge, 160, 161. 
Cat-Bird, or Black-Capped Thrush, 178. 
Cedar-Birds, see English Robins, 178. 
Cherry-Birds, see English Robins, 178. 
Chewink, Ground Robin, or Towhie Bunting, 

178, 179. 
Clapper-Rail, or Meadow-Hen, 170. 
Coot, American, Hen-Bill, or Mud-Hen, 170. 
Cock of the Plain, or Sage Cock, 162. 
Common Snipe, 164, 165. 
Cow-Bird, see Cuckoo, 179. 
Crane, or Great Blue Heron, 171. 
Curlew, Esquimaux, or Futes, 168. 
Long, or Sickle-Billed, 168. 
Red, see Marlin, 166. 
Cuckoo, or Cow-Bird, 179. 
Doe-Bird, 168. 

Dove, Turtle, or Carolina Pigeon, 175. 
Dowitcher, Quail, Snipe, etai 166. 
Dunkadoo, see Green Heron, 172. 
Eagles, 179. 

English Partridges, 163. 
Pheasants, 162. 

Robins, Cedar-Birds, Yellow-Tails, 
Cherry-Birds, Chatterers, Quaker- 
Birds, Top-Knots, Crown-Birds 
Spider-Birds, Cedar Wax-Wing, etc. 
178. 
Snipe, or Wilson Snipe, 164, 165. 
Woodcock, 163. 
Field Plover, 165. 

Finch, American, or Yellow-Birds, 179- 
Bull, 179. 
Grav Shore, 168. 
Purple, 179. 
Sea-Side, 168. 
Flood Gull, or Oyster-Catcher, 168. 
Fresh-water Marsh, or Little Mud-Hen. 170. 
Frost Bird, see Frost Plover, 165. 

Plover, 165. 
Futes, or Esquimaux Curlew, 168. 
Game, Birds called, 145, 158. 
Increase, cause of, 111. 
Laws, 111, 146. 
Gray Plover, Grass, Field, or Upland Plover, 

165. 
Great Blue Heron, or Crane, 171. 
Great Marbled Godwit, or Marlin, 166. 
Greater Yellow-Legged Snipe, 167. 
Green Heron, 172. 

Grouse, or Prairie-Hen, 114, 160, 161. 
Black, 163. 
Canada, 161. 

Red, or Moor Cock, 163. 
Sharp-Tailed, 161. 
Willow, 162. 
Gull, Black, or Black Tern, 170, 171. 
Flood, or Oyster-Catcher, 168. 
Eggs, 171. 
Hawk, Night, 17S. 
Hoath-Hen, or Prairie-Hen, 160. 
Heron, Great Blue, or Crane, 171. 

Black-Crowned, or Quack, 171. 
Green, or Schyte-Poke, 172. 
White-Crested, or Snowy White Poke, 
171, 172. 
High-Hole, Clape, or Golden-Winged Wood- 
pecker, 175, 176. 
Horse-Foot Snipe, 165, 166. 



Hudsonian Godwit, 166. 

Kildeer Plover, 166. 

Kingfisher, or Belted Kingfisher, 177. 

Lark, Brown, 169. 

Bunting, or Lark, 176. 
Meadow, or Meadow Starling, 175. 
Shore, or Horned, 169. 
Lawyer, or Black-Necked Stilt, 168. 
or Blue-Stocking, 167, 16S. 
Long-Billed Curlew, or Sickle-Billed Curlew, 

168. 
Long-Legged Sandpiper, 167. 
Marlin, or Great-Marbled Godwit, 166. 

-Ring-Tailed, 166. 
Meadow-Hen, or Clapper-Rail, 170. 

Larks, or Meadow Starlings, 175. 
Snipe, or Pectoral Sandpiper, 167. 
Moor-Cock, or Red Grouse, 163. 
Mud-Hen, see American Coot, 170. 
Night-Hawk, 178. 
Oriole, or Baltimore Oriole, 176. 
Ortolan, see White Snow-Bird, 176. 
Owl and Rabbit, The hooting, 122. 
Ox-Eyes, or Little Sandpiper, 169. 
Ovster-Catcher, or Fiat-Foot Snipe, 168. 
Partridges, Pheasants, Ruffed Grouse, 110, 138, 

159, 16C. 
Partridge, English, 163. 

Poisonous, 159, 160. 
Spruce, 161. 
Pectoral Sandpiper, 167. 
Pheasant, or Partridge, 159, 160. 

English, 162, 163. 
Pigeons, Carolina, or Turtle-Dove, 175. 

Wild, and their plentifulness, 172, 173, 

174, 175. 
Wild Squabs, 172, 173. 
Wild, Taking the, with sparnet, etc., 
173, 174. 
Pine Grosbeak, or Bullfinch, 179. 
Pinnated Grouse, see Prairie-Hen, 160, 161. 
Piping Plover, 165. 
Plover, Beach-Bird, or Piping, 165. 

Bull-Headed, or Beetle-Headed, 166. 
Frost, Greenback, or Golden Plover, 

165. 
Gray, Grass, Field, or Upland, 165. 
Kildeer, 166. 
Ring, or Ring-Neck, 165. 
Ruddy, or Sanderling, 166. 
Whistling, or Black-Bellied, 166. 
Prairie-Hen, Heath-Hen, or Prairie-Chicken, 

160, 161. 
Purple Finch, or Crested Purple Finch, 179. 
Quack, or Black-Crowned Heron, 171. 

or Night Heron, 171. 
Quail, Common, 163, 164. 

California, 162. 
Quaker-Birds, see English Robins, 178. 
Rail, Clapper, or Meadow-Hen, 170. 
Sora, or Carolina, 169, 170. 
Virginia, or Little Mud-Hen, 170. 
Red-Breasted Sandpiper, 165. 

Snipe, see Dowitcher, 166. 
Red-Headed Woodpecker, 176. 
Red Grouse, or Moor Cock, 163. 
Reed-Birds, Rice-Buntings, Rice-Birds, or Bob- 
olinks, 177. 
Rice-Birds, or Buntings, see Reed-Bird, 177. 
Ring-Tailed Marlin, or Hudsonian Godwit, 166. 
Ring-Plover, or Ring-Neck, 165. 
Robins, Ground, see Chewink, 178, 179. 
Red-Breasted Thrush, 175. 
Snipe, or Red-Breasted Sandpiper, 165. 



INDEX. 



441 



Robins, Wood, or Hermit Thrush, 178. 
Robins, English, Cedar-Birds, etc., 178. 
Buddy Plover, or Sanderling, 166. 
Ruffed-Grouse, or Partridge! 159, 160. 
Sage Cock, or Cock of the" Plains, 162. 
Sanderling, 166. 

Sandpiper, Buff-Breasted, 166, 167. 
Bartram Sandpiper, 165. 
Long-Legged, 167. 
« Pectoral, or Meadow-Snipe, 167. 
Red-Backed, 166. 
Schinz's, 169. 
Semi-palmated, 169. 
Spotted, see Teeter-Tail Snipe, 169. 
"Wilson's, or Ox-Eyes, 169. 
Schyte-Poke, or Fly-up -the-Creek, 172. 
Sea-Side, or Gray Shore Finch, 168. 
Semi-palmated Tattler, 167. 
Sharp-Tailed Grouse, 161. 
Shore-Lark, or Horned-Lark, 169. 
Sickle-billed Curlew, 168. 
Bora, or Carolina Rail, 169, 170. 
Snipe, Black-Breasted, or "Winter-Snipe, 166. 
Dowitcher, 166. 
English, or Wilson's, 164, 165. 
Fiat-Foot, see Flood Gull, 168. 
Greater, Yellow-Legged, 167. 
Horse-Foot, or Brant" Bird, 165. 
Jack, 167. 
Marlin, 166. 
"Meadow, 1 67. 
Quail, 166. 
Red-Breasted. 166. 
King-Tailed, 166. 
Robin, 165. 
• Semi-palmated, 167. 
Short-Neck, 167. 
Teeter-Tail, or Tilt-up, 169. 
White Robin, 165. 
Willet, 167. 
Wilson's, 164. 



Snipe, Winter, 166. 

Yellow-Legged, 167. 
Snow-Birds, 177. 

Sora, English, or Carolina Rail, 169, 170. 
Spruce Partridge, or Canada Grouse, 161. 
Tattler, Tell-Tale, see Greater Yellow-Legged 

Snipe, 167. 
Tattler, Green Rump, or Solitary, 169. 

Yellow-Shank, 167. 
Thrush, Black-Capped, see Cat-Bird, 17S 
Hermit, or Wood Robin, 178. 
Red-Breasted, see Robin, 175. 
Tilt-TJp, see Teeter-Tail Snipe, 169. 
Turkey, Wild, 158, 159. 
Turnstone, 165. 

Turtle-Dove, or Carolina Pigeon, 175. 
Upland Plover, 165. 
Virginia Rail, 170. 

Water-Hen, Blue, or Virginia Water-Hen, 170. 
White Poke, Snowy Heron, etc., 171, 172. 

Snow Birds, < >rtolans, etc., 176. 
Wild Goose, or Canada Goose, 14S, 150. 

Pigeons, or Passenger Pigeons, 172, 173. 
Swans, 147, 148. 
Turkey, 158, 159. 
Willet, or Semi-palmated, Tattler, 167 
Willow, or White Grouse, 162. 
Wilson's Snipe, see English Snipe, 164. 

Sandpiper, 169. 
Wood Tattler, 169. 
Woodcook, 164. 

Destroyed by Cranes, 171. 
English, 163. 
Woodpecker, Golden-Winged, 175, 176. 

Red-Headed. 176. 
Wood Robin or Hermit-Thrush, 17S 
Tattler, Green-Rump, etc.. 169. 
Yellow Birds, or American Goldfinch, 179. 
Legged Snipe, 167. 
Legged Greater, 167. 
Tails, see English Robins, etc., 178. 



FISH 



Albany Beef, see Sturgeon, 223, 224, 226. 

Albicore, see Tunny, 26S, 269, 270. 

Alewive, American, see Spring Herring, 185, 

249,250,297. 
American Angler, Fishing-Frog, Sea-Devil, 

Monk-Fish, Goose-Fish, 275, 276, 277. 
American Angler swallowed an Old Wife, 276, 

277. 
American Butter-Fish, or Spotted Gunnel, 247. 
Codling, 259. 
Conger, 261. 
Hake, 259. 
Prawns, 305, 306. 
Argyreoise, Hair-Finned, see Hair-Finned 

Dory, 289. 
Argyreoise, Rostrated, see Rostrated Dory, 289. 
Back Shad, 201, 202. 

Balistes, Dusky, see Iron Skin, 291, 292. 
Banded Drum, or Grunts, 265. 

Ephippus, or Three-Tailed Sheep- 
head, 257, 25S. 
Gar, 295. 
Gurnard, 246. 

Seriole, see Pi lot-Fish, 299. 
Barb, see King-Fish. 239. 
Barbel, see Horned Sucker, 296. 



Barracuta, Northern, 292. 
Bass. Black (fresh-water), 218, 219. 
(salt-water), 288. 
Calico, 293. 
Lake, striped, 260. 
Little White, see White Perch, 291. 
Net, and Sea-Dog, 197. 
not Rock Bass, 186. 
Otsego, see Otsego Shad-Salmon, 253. 
Partridge-Tailed, 293, 294. 
Red, or Corvina, 254. 
Rock (fresh-water), 293. 

(salt-water), see Striped Bass, 194. 
Ruddy, see Sea Perch. 240. 
Sea, 198, 199, 200. 
Speckled, 293, 294 
Strawberry. 293, 294. 
Striped, Streaked Bass, Rock-Fish, or 

Rock Bass, 1S5. 194. 195, 196, 197, 198. 
Striped, an intemperate. 196. 
and Eagle, a fight, 197. 
or Twalft (Dutch Laws), 198. 
White Lake, or White Bass, 260. 
Bay of Fundy Flounder, 257. 
Bayonet Fish, Giant, or Broad-Scaled Herring, 
273. 



442 



THE MAEKET ASSISTANT. 



Bay Shiner, 248. 

Beach, or Dipper Clam, 310. 

Bergall, Blue Percb, Conner, Chogset, 245. 

Big-eyed Pike, 203. 

Porgee, Porgy, Scup, or Scapang, 242. 
Shrimp, 305. 
Bill-Fish, Northern, 295. 

see Gar, 295. 
Black Backs, 186. 

Eared Pond-Fish, 250. 

(fresh-water) Bass, or Black Perch, 218, 

219. 
Headed Dace, Lake Dace, or Lake Chub, 

297. 
Grunts, see Black Triple-tail, 257. 
Fish, or Tautog, 185, 206. 
Fish's Heart, remarkable muscular mo- 
tion, 206. 
Perch, or Black Bass (salt-water), 186, 

283. 
Sheepheads, see Malashea:anay, 266. 
Triple-tail, Tviple-tail Perch, or Black 
Grurfts, 257. 
Bladder-Fish, see Toad-Fish, 251. 
Blepharis, Hair-finned, 2S9, 290. 
Blenny, see Thick-lipped Eel-pout, 260, 261. 
Blue-Fish, or Snapping Mackerel, 206, 207, 208. 
Incident of the voraciousness of the, 
207. 
Blue Perch, 245. 

Sucker, 296. 
Blunt-nosed Shiner, or Bristly Dory, 289. 
Bonita, or Striped Bonita, 258, 259. 
Bony-Fish, see Mossbonker, 250. 
Bottle-headed Dolphin, 271. 
Bram, see Golden Mullet, 267. 
Branded Corvina, 254. 

Ephippus, 257. 
Bream, Variegated, 297. 
Bregals, 185. 
Brilliant Chubsucker, or Chub of New York, 

296. 
Broad-Finned Sword, or Needle-Fish, 273, 274. 
Scaled Herring, 273. 
Shiner, 247. 
Sting Kay, 229. 
Brook Trout, or Speckled Trout, 187, 236, 237, 

238, 239. 
Brook Trout, large specimens of, 237, 238. 
Brown Pilot- Fish, 299. 

Back Turtle, 186. 
Buffalo Bony Pike, see Fresh-water Gar, 278. 
Bull-Head. Common, or Sculpin, 247. 
Butter-Fish, see Harvest-Fish, 247. 

American, or Spotted Gunnel, 

247. 
taken in an Oyster, 247. 
Calico Bass, Speckled, or Partridge-Tailed Bass, 

293, 294. 
Caranx, Southern, 293. 

Yellow, 293. 
Carp, or Common Carp, 242, 290, 291. 

Gilt-Sucking, see Golden Mullet, 267. 
Carp, 186. 
Cat-Fish, & jugged. 264, 265. 

Horned Pout, Minister, 185, 248, 249. 

Lake, large, 266, 267. 

Nesro fisherman who catches nothing 

but, 249. 
Salt-water. 266. 
Chequet, see Weak-Fish, 213. 
Chogset, see Bergall, 245. 
Chub, Lake, see Black-Headed Dace, 297. 
Mackerel, 244. 



Chub of New York, see Brilliant Chubsucker, 

185, 296. 
Clams ashore, caused from a gale, 310. 
Beach, 310. 
Dipper, 310. 
Giant, 309. 
various kinds, 1S5. 
Hard, 308. 
Long, 309. 
Piss, 309. 
Rat-catching, 309. 
Razor, 310. 
Soft, 309. 
Clear-nosed Ray, 228. 
Coal-Fish, see Pollack, 262. 
Cockles, 311. 

Cod-Fish, 183, 185, 214, 215, 216, 217. 
Large, 215. 

Sounds and Tongues, 215. 
When first discovered at Sandy 
Hook, 216. 
Codling, see American Codling, 259. 

Spotted, 292. 
Common Bull-Head, or Sculpin, 247. 
Eel, 240. 
Herring, 249. 
Mackerel, 243. 
Shad-Salmon, Herring-Salmon, or 

White Fish of the Lakes, 253. 
Sucker, 248. 
Conger Eel, or American Conger, 261. 

Large, taken, 261. 
Conk, see Snails, 185. 
Conner (or Cunner), see Bergall, 245. 
Corvina, see Red Bass, 254. 
Cow-nosed Ray, 229. 
Crab, Common, 185, 303. 
Cow, 304. 

Extraordinary, 304 
Fiddler, or, 305. 
Horse-foot, 304. 
How to handle the, 308. 
King, 304. 
Lady, 305. 
Large, taken, 304. 
Oyster, 305. 
Sand, 305. 
Shedder, 304. 
Soft, or Soft-shelled, 304 
Soldier, 305. 
Spotted, 305. 
Cramp-Fish, see Torpedo, 282. 
Cusk (fresh -water), 265. 

(salt-water), 258. 
Dace, Black-Headed, 297. 

Horned, see Horned Sucker, 296. 
Lake, 297. 
Red, 296, 297. 
Shining, 297. 

Variegated Bream, see 297. 
White, 297. 
Devil-Fish, see Vampyre of the Ocean, 282. 
Dipper-Clam, see Beach-Clam, 310. 
Dog-Fish, 185, 231, 232. 

Skins, 232. 
Dollar-Fish, see Hair-Finned Dory, 289. 
Dolphins, 186, 271, 272. 

Bottled-Headed, 271. 
The Mackerel's great enemy, 243. 
Dory, Bristly, see Blunt-Nosed Shiner, 289. 
Hair-Finned, 289. 
or John Dory, 28S, 2S9. 
Drum-Fish Banded, or Grunter, 185, 265 
Black, 263, 264 



INDEX. 



443 



Drum-Fish, Large hauls of, 263, 264. 

Red, 263, 264. 
Dunfish, see Codfish, 214. 
Dusky Balistes, or Iron-Skin, 291, 292. 
Eel, Common, 185, 240, 241. 242. 

Conger, or American Conger, 261. 
Pout, Thick -Lipped, or Blenny, 260, 261. 
Large, 241, 242. 
Sea, 268. 
Silver, 240. 
Skins, 242. 
English Turcot, 256. 
Ephippus, Banded, or Three-Tailed Sheephead, 

257, 258. 
Fall Herring, or Shad Herring, 226, 227. 

Mackerol, 244. 
Fiddler, or Soldier Crab, 185, 305. 
Fish as food, etc., 180, 181. 
Bait, see Shrimp, 305. 
Chowder, how made, 216. 
Culture, 187. 

Dead, found on the shore, 188, 189. 
Found in New York and Philadelphia, 

183, 184, 185, 1S6. 
Fresh, preserving, 319. 
Game, Laws to protect, 187, 188. 
How to judge, 1SS. 
Large and abundant, 190. 
Large and scarce, 251. 
Miraculous draught of, 195. 
Phenomenon among the, 188, 189, 
Premiums offered for certain kinds of, 

183. 
Preparing, for cooking, 318. 
Preserving Fresh, 319. 
Small and abundant, 236. 
Small and scarce, 288. 
Fishing-Frog, see American Angler, 275. 
Fiat-Fish, Pigmy, see Sand-Flounder, 245. 

New York, see Winter Flounder, 

209, 245. 
Toothed, 210. 
Flounder, Bay of Fundy, see French Turbot, 
257. 
Fillets of, 210. 
Long -Toothed, 293. 
Oblong, or Spotted, 185, 209. 
Sand, or Pigmy Fiat-Fish, 245. 
Sea, see Spotted Turbot, 255. 
Spotted, 209, 293. 

Summer, see Toothed Fiat-Fish, 210. 
Watery, see Spotted Turbot, 255. 
Winter, or New York Fiat-Fish, 245. 
Fluke, see Oblong Flounder, 209, 210. 
Flying-Fish, or New York Flying-Fish, 300. 
French Turbor, or Bay of Fundy Flounder, 257. 
Fresh-Water Cusk, 265. 

Gar, Buffalo, Bony Pike, or Lake 

Bill-Fish, 278, 279. 
Muscles, 311. 
Shiner, 248. 

Terrapin, or Wood Terrapin, 317. 
Frogs, Edible, 318. 

Gibbous Green, 318. 
Frost-Fish, or Tom-Cod, 240. 
Game Fish, Laws to protect, 187, 188. 
Gar, Fresh-water, Buffalo Bony Pike Lake 

Bill-Fish, 278, 279. 
Gar, Northern, see Northern Bill-Fish, 295. 

Sea Pike, Bill-Fish, Banded Gar-Fish, 
185, 295. 
Giant Clam, 309. 

or Broad-Scaled Herring, see Bayonet- 
Fish, 273. 



Gibbous Green Frogs, 318. 

Golden Mullet, Mullet-Sucker, Eed Horse, or 

Brani, 267, 26S. 
Gold Fish, Curious varieties, 300. 
Goody, see Lafayette Fish, 242. 
Goose-Fish, see American Angler, 275. 
Glass-Eyed Pike, 208. 
Gray Perch, 291. 
Grav Pike Perch, 209. 
Great Sun-Fish, or Head-Fish, 280, 281. 

very large, taken, 280, 281. 
Green-Fish, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
Turtle, 185, 312, 313. 

the young hatched in New 
York, 313. 
Groper, see Red-Groper, 261. 
Grunter, see Sea-Robin, 246. 
Grunts, see Banded Drum, 265. 

Speckled, see Speckled Red-Mouth, 
290. 
Gudgeons, 186. 
Gunnel, Spotted, see American Butter-Fish, 

247, 308. 
Gurnard, Banded, see Sea-Robin, 246. 
Haddock, 185, 217. 
Hair-Finned Blepharis, 289, 290. 

Dory, or Hair-Finned Argyneoise, 
289. 
Hake, American, Stock-Fish, or Poor-John's, 
259, 260. 

see American Codling, 259. 
Halibut, 217, 218. 

Large, 218. 
Hard Clams, Hard-Shelled Clams, Round 

Clams, or Quahaug, 308, 309. 
Hard-Heads, see Mossbonker, 250. 
Harvest-Fish, or Broad Shiner, 247. 

Long-Finned, 290. 
Hawk's-Bill Turtle, 186, 314. 
Head-Fish, see Great Sun-Fish, 280. 
Herring, Burlington, The manner of prepar- 
ing, 227, 228. 
Common, 185, 249. 
Fall, or Shad, 226, 227. 
Lake, see Sisco, 298. 
Large catch of, 250. 
Pie, annually presented, 227. 
River, see River Moon-Eye, 298. 
Round, see Saury, 298. 
Salmon, 353. 
Slender, 297. 
Spotted Thread, 297. 
Spring, or American Alewives*. 249 
250, 297. 
Hickory Shad, see Spring Herring,186, 249. 
Holebut, 185. 
Horn-Fish, 1S6. 

Horned-Pout, see Cat-Fish, 248. 
Horned-Sucker, Horned-Dace, or Barbel, 296. 
Horse-Foot Crab, or King-Crab, 304, 305. 
Horse-Mackerel, large, taken, 186, 269, 270. 
Iron-Skin, see Dusky Balistes, 291. 
Jack, see Pickerel, 210, 211. 
Jelly-Fish, see Lump-Fish, 277, 278. 
John Dory, see Dory, 288. 
Killi-Fish, Striped, 300. 
Killey-Fish, 185. 
King-Crab, see Horse-Foot Crab, 304, 305. 

Fish, Barb, or Whiting, 185, 329. 
Lady-Crab, 305. 
Lafayette-Fish, Sea-Chub, Spot, Goody, River 

Porgees, 242. 
Lake Bill-Fish, see Fresh-water Gar, 278. 
Cat-Fish, 266, 267. 



444 



THE MAKKET ASSISTANT. 



Lake Chub, or Dace, 297. 
Herring, 298. 

Lawyer, see "Western Mud-Fish, 278. 
Moon-Eye, 299. 
Salmon, see Lake Trout, 254. 
Salmon, first brought to the New York 

market, 186. 
Shad, see "White-Fish, 212. 
Sheephead, 266. 

Trout, or Lake Salmon, 187, 254. 
Lamper-Eels, 185. 

Lamprey-Eels, see Sea-Lamprey, 219. 
Lampugus, Spotted, 275. 
Large-Scaled Sucker, or Blue-Sucker, 296. 
Leather-Turtle, 315. 
Lineated Puffer, 274, 292. 
Ling, 262. 

Lobsters, Bluebacks, 302, 303. 
Kevenge, 301. 

Yarieties, and large, 185, 301, 302, 303. 
Logger-Head Turtle, 185, 314. 
Long-Clams, see Soft-Clams, 309, 310. 
Finned Harvest-Fish, 290. 
Toothed Flounder, or Spotted Flounder, 
293 
Lump-Fish, or Jelly-Fish, 277, 278. 
Mackerel, Blue, see Blue-Fish, 206. 

Common, see Spring, 183, 185, 243. 
Fall, 244. 

Horse, see Tunny, 268, 269. 
Large catch of, 244. 
Spanish, 193. 

Spring, or Common, 243, 244. 
Thimble-Eyed Chub, or Fall, 244. 
Yellow, see Yellow Caranx, 293. 
Mackinaw Trout, or Salmon, or Namaycush. 255. 
Malashegany, or Black Sheephead, 266. 
Manhaden, 186. 
Marsovius, see Porpoise, 230. 
Masealonge or Muskellonge, 187, 204, 205, 206. 

Taking of the, 204, 205. 
Menhagen, see Mossbonker, 250. 
Minees, 186. 

Minister, see Cat-Fish, 248. 
Moon-Eye, Lake, 299. 
Eiver, 298. 
Moon-Fish, see Blunt-Nosed Shiner, 289. 
Monk-Fish, see American Angler, 275. 
MonkeyFish, see Dory, 288. 
Mossbonker, Menhagen, Panhagen, "White-Fish, 

Bony-Fish, Hard-Heads, etc., 250, 251. 
Mud-Shad, 1S6. 

Wallepers, 186. 
Mullet, 185, 246. 

Golden, Eed-Horse Bram, 267, 268. 
Sucker, etc., 267, 268. 
Muscles, 185, 311. 

Fresh- Water, 311. 
Muskellonge, see Masealonge. 204. 
Namaycush, see Mackinaw Trout, 255. 
Needle-Fish, 295, 296. 

Broad-Finned, 273, 274. 
New York Flying-Fish, 300. 
Fiat-Fish, 245. 
Shadine, 297. 

Shiner, or Fresh-water Shiner, 248. 
Plaice, 256. 
Sole, 294. 
Northern Barracuta, 292. 

Bill-Fish, or Northern Gar, 295. 
Lake Trout, 258. 

Sebastes, Red Sea-Perch, Rosa-Fish. 
or Sharper, 261, 262. 
Numb-Fish, see Torpedo, 2S2. 



Oblong-Flounder, Fluke, or Spotted-Flounder, 

209. 
Ohio Cat-Fish, 186. 
Oldwives, (Perch), 186. 
Ohio Salmon, 208. 

Otsego Shad-Salmon, or Otsego Bass, 253, 254. 
Oyster-bed, discovery of a great, 307,308. 
Crab, 305. 
Large, 308. 

Ordinance on the sale of the, 307. 
Panic, 306, 307. 
Oysters, various kinds of, 185, 306, 307, 308. 
Painted Tortoise, 317. 
Panhagen, see Mossbonker, 250. 
Partridge-Tail Bass, 293. 

Perch, Black, see Black (Salt-water) Bass, 288. 
Black, see Black (Fresh-water), 218. 
Blue, see Bergall, 245. 
Gray, 291. 
Gray-Eyed, 209. 
Golden-Eyed, 293. 

Red Sea, see Northern Sebastes, 261, 262. 
Rock, 293. 

Sea or Ruddy Bass, 240. 
Silver, 291. 

Small Black (Fresh- water), 288. 
Stone, 293. 

Triple-Tail, see Black Triple-tail, 288. 
White, 291. 
Yellow, 245. 
Yellow-Barred, 245. 
Yellow-Bellied, 297. 
Yellow Pike, 208. 
Perriwinkles, see Winkles, 311. 
Pickerel, Pike, or Jack, 210, 211, 212. 

Brook, 211, 
Pig-Fish, see Dory, 288. 

see Sea-Robin, 246. 
Pigmy Fiat-Fish, 245. 
Pike, 185, 210, 211. 

Big-Eyed, see Yellow Pike Perch, 208,209. 
Curious incidents relating to the, 211, 212. 
Glass-Eyed, see Yellow Pike Perch, 2<)S. 
Of the Lakes, see Yellow Pike Perch, 208, 

209. 
Sea, see Gar, 295. 
see Pickerel, 210, 211. 
Wall-Eyed, see Yellow Pike Perch, ,208, 
209. 
Pilot Fish, 299. 

Brown, 299. 
Piss-Clams, see Soft-Clams, 309. 
Pissers (Clams), 185. 

Plaice, New York, see Spotted Turbot, 255. 
Pollack, Black, 262. 

or New York Pollack, 262, 263. 
Pollock, 185. 
Pompino, 252, 253. 
Pond-Fish, Black-Eared, 250. 
see Sun-Fish, 250. 
Poor John's, see Hake, 259. 
Porgee (or Porgy), Big ; Scup, Scapang, 242. 
River, see Lafayette-Fish, 242. 
Sand, 245, 246. 
Porgees, large catch of, 243. 
Porgeys, 185. 
Porpoises, 230, 231. 

the taking of, 230, 231. 
White, 281, 282. 
Prawns. American Prawns, or Big Shrimp, 185, 

305, 306. 
Puffer, Lineated. see Rabbit-Fish, 274, 275. 

see Toad-Fish, 251. 
Pumpkin-Seed, see Sun-Fish, 250. 



INDEX. 



445 



Quahaug, see Hard-Clam, 308. 
Rabbit-Fish or Lineated Puffer, 274, 275, 292. 
Rare-Fish, see Great Sun-Fish, 280. 
Eay, Broad-Sting, 1S3, 185, 229. 
Clear-Nosed, 228. 
Cow-Nosed, 229. 
Spotted, 228, 229. 
Whip-Sting, 229. 
Eazor-Sheil Clam, 310. 
Red-Bass, Branded Corvina or Spud, 254. 
Red-Bellied Terrapin, or Red-Less, 317. 

Dace, Red-Fin, or Rough-Head, 296, 297. 
Groper, see Groper, 261. 
Horse, see Golden Mullet, 267. 
Legs, see Red-Bellied Terrapin, 317. 
Mouth Speckled, 290. 
Mouth Yellow-Finned, 290. 
Sea-Perch, 261. 
Rempora, or Shark-Sucker, 299, 300. 

White-Tailed, 299. 
Ribbon-Fish, or Silvery Hair-Tail, 274. 
River Moon-Eye, or River Herring, 298. 

Porgee, 242. 
Roach, 186. 
Rock-Bass, Rock-Perch, Stone-Perch, or 

Golden-Eyed Perch, 293. 
Rock, Rock-Fish, see Striped Bass, 194, 195. 
Round Clams, see Hard Clams, 308. 

Herring, see Saury, 298. 
Rose-Fish, see"Northern Sebastes, 261. 
Rostrated Dory, or Rostrated Argyreoise, 289. 
Rough-Head, see Red Dace, 296. 
Rudder-Fish, 290. 
Ruddy Bass, 240. 
Salmon, 185, 1S6, 190. 

Common Shad, or Herring, 253. 
First brought to the N. Y. Markets, 186. 
Found in the Hudson River, 191, 192. 
Herring, see Common Shad, 253. 
Lake, see Lake Trout, 254. 
Mackinaw, see Mackinaw Trout, 255. 
Ohio, see Yellow Pike Perch, 208, 209. 
Otsego Shad, or Otsego Bass, 253, 254. 
Scotch, 190, 191. 

Trout, or Sea Trout, 186, 251, 252. 
Salt-water Terrapin, 313, 314. 

Trout, 213. 
Sand-Flounder, or Pigmy Flat-Fish, 245. 

Porgee, 245, 246. 
Saury, or Round Herring, 298. 
Saw-Fish, large take, 272, 273. 
Scapang, see Big Porgee, 242. 
Scollops, or Scallaps, 185, 310, 311. 
Sculpin, see Bull-Heads, 247. 
Sculping, 1S5. 
Scup, see Big Porgee, 242. 
Sea-Bass, 185, 198, 199, 200. 
Cat, see Sea-Wolf, 186, 275. 
Chub, see Lafayette-Fish, 242. 
Devil, see American Angler, 275. 
Eel, 186, 268. 
Hog, see Porpoises, 230. 
Lamprey, called Lamprey Eels, 219. 
Lamprey and Sturgeon, 220. 
Perch, or Ruddy-Bass, 240. 
Robin, Banded Gurnard, etc., 246. 
Serpent captured, 269, 270. 
Trout, 186, 251. 

Wolf, Sea-Cat, or Tiger-Fish, 275. 
Sebastes, Northern, Red Sea-Perch, 261 
Seriole, Banded, 299. 
Shad 185, tOO. 201, 202, 203, 204. 
Back, 201, 202. 
Fishery at the Narrows, New York, 203. 



Shad, Herring, 226. 

Hickory, see Spring Herring, 249. 
known as Allizes at an early period, 202. 
Lake, see White-Fish, 212, 213. 
large quantities taken, 202, 203. 
Roes.and Melt, 202. 
very large, 200, 250. ' 
Shadine, New York, 297, 298. 

Spotted, 297, 298. 
Shark, attack of a, dreadful fight, 234, 235. 
Baskinsr, large, 233, 234. 
Bone, 234 
Hammer-Head, or Shovel-Nose, 232, 

235, 236. 
Sucker, see Remora, 299. 
varieties of the, 186, 232, 233, 234, 235, 
236. 
Shark's Flesh, John Josselyn on the, 230. 

Skins used for various purposes, 232. 
Shedder Crabs, 304. 
Sheephead, 183, 185, 193, 194. 
Lake. 266. 

Three-Tailed, see Banded Ephip- 
pus, 257. 
Shell-Fish, etc., 301. 
Shiner, or Bay Shiner, 247, 248. 
Blunt-nosed, 289. 
Broad, see Harvest-Fish, 247. 
New York, or Fresh-water Shiner, 248. 
Shining Dace, 297. 

Short Sun-Fish, see Great Head-Fish, 280. 
Shrimp, Big Shrimp, or Prawns, 185, 305. 
Silver Eel, 240 

Perch, 291. 
Silvery Hair-tail, see Ribbon-Fish, 274. 
Sisco, or Sisquette, or Lake Herring, 298. 
Siskawitz, or Northern Lake Trout, 25S. 
Skate, Smooth, 183, 185, 229. 
Skip-Jack, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
Bonita, 258, 259. 
Slender Herring, 297. 
Small Black Bass, or Black Perch (fresh-water), 

288 
Smelt, 185, 239, 240. 
Smooth Skate, 229. 

Terrapin, 317. 
Snapper, or Snapping Turtle, 185, 215, 316. 
See Northern Sebastes, 261, 262. 
and Snake, a hard story, 317. 
Mackerel, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
Snapping-Turtle and Deer, 115, 116. 

Hen-Hawk, 316, 317. 
Snails, 185, 311, 312. 

Soft Clams, Long Clams, Piss Clams. 309, 310. 
Crabs, or Soft-shelled Crabs, 304 
Shelled Turtle, 314 
Soldier-Crab, see Fiddler, 305. 
Sole, or Soal, or New York Sole, 185, 294. 
Sounds and Tongues, see Cod-Fish, 215. 
Southern Caranx, 293. 
Spanish Mackerel, 185, 193. 
Speckled Bass, 293. 

Grunts, 290. 
Red-mouth, 290. 
Trout, 236. 
Spot, see Lafayette-Fish, 242. 
Spotted Codling, 292. 

Cybum, see Spanish Mackerel, 193. 

Flounder, 293. 

Gunnel, 247. 

Lampugus, 275. 

Ray, 22S, 229. 

or Sand-Crab, 305. 

Shadine, or New York Snaaine, 297, 298. 



m 



THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 




Spotted, or Speckled Turtle, 318. 

Thread Herring, or Thread-Fish, 297. 
Turbot, etc., 255. 
Spring Herring, or American Alewive, 249, 250. 
Mackerel, or Common Mackerel, 243, 
244 
Spud, see Ked Bass, 254. 
Squeteaque, see Weak-Fish, 213. 
Stinkards, see Harvest-Fish, 247. 
Stinkpots, Turtle, 186. 
Stock-Fish, see Hake, 259. 
Stone Perch, 293. 

Strawberry Bass, see Calico Bass, 294. 
Striped, or Streaked Bass, Kock, Kock-Fish, 

Rock-Bass, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198. 
Striped Bass, a tippling, 196. 

and a frightened beauty, 197. 
Bonita, 258. 
Sturgeon (" Albany Beef"), 185, 223, 224. 
Pickled, 224, 225, 226. 
Sea-Lampreys and the, 220. 
The boat-parties and, 225, 226. 
Flesh of, 223, 224. 
Very large, 224. 
Sucker, Blue, see Large-scaled Sucker, 296. 
Common, 185, 186, 248. 
Horned, 296. 
Large-scaled, 296. 
Summer Flounder, 210. 
Sun-Fish, Great, or Head-Fish, 280, 281. 

Pond-Fish, or Pumpkin-seed, 185, 250. 
Susquehannah Turtle, 186. 
Swallow-tailed Cat-Fish, 186. 
Sword-Fish, 220, 221, 222, 223. 

Broad-Finned, 273, 274. 
Called Sea-Warrior, 221. 
Catching the, 222, 223. 
Great power on ship timber, 221, 

222. 
Large, 221. 
Tailors, see Blue-Fish, 206. 
Tarrapins, 185. 
Tautog. see Black-Fish, 206. 
Terrapin, fresh-water, 317. 
Red-Bellied, 317. 
Salt-water, 313, 314, 317. 
Smooth Wood, 317. 
Two-Headed, 314. 
Thick-Lipped Eel- Pout, or Blenny, 260. 
Thimble-Eyed Mackerel, Chub, or Fall Mack- 
erel, 244. 
Thread-Fish, see Spotted Thread-Herring, 297. 
Three-Tailed Sheephead, 257, 258. 
Thurry, see Tunny, 268, 270. 
Tiger-Fish, see Sea- Wolf, 275. 
Toad-Fish, Bladder-Fish, or Puffer, 251. 
Tom-Cod, see Frost-Fish, 185, 240. 
Toothed Fiat-Fish, or Summer Flounder, 210. 
Torpedo, Cramp-Fish, or Numb-Fish, 282. 
Torpon, see Bayonet-Fish, 2T3. 
Tortoise, Painted, 317. 
Triple-Tail Perch, 207. 
Trout, Brook, or Speckled, 185, 236, 237, 238, 



Trout, curious incident between a Duck and, 

238, 239. 
Trout, Lake, or Lake Salmon, 254. 

Mackinaw, or Mackinaw Salmon, 255. 
Northern Lake, see Siskawitz. 258. 
Salmon, or Sea-Trout, 251, 252. 
Salt-water, see Weak-Fish, 213, 214. 
Truter, see Bottle-Headed Dolphin, 271. 
Tunny, or Horse-Mackerel, 268, 269. 
Turbot, or English Turbot, 256. 

French, or Bay of Fundy Flounder, 

257. 
Spotted New York Plaice, etc., 209, 
255. 
Turtle, Chicken, 312. 

Club, the Turtler of the, 312. 
Green, 312. 
Hawk's Bill, 314. 
Leather. 315. 
Turtles, Loggerhead, 314. 

Mock, and the knowing politician, 

313. 
Snapping, 315, 316. 
Soft-Shelled, 314. • 
Spotted, or Speckled, 318. 
Vampyre of the Ocean, or Devil-Fish, 282, 283. 

torn to pieces, 283. 
Variegated Bream, Dace, or Yellow-bellied 

Perch, 297. 
Watery Flounder, 255. 
Water Turtle (red belly). 186. 
Weak-Fish, or Salt-Water Trout, 185, 213, 214. 
Weesick, see Fall Herring, 226. 
Western Mud-Fish, or Lake Lawyer, 278. 
Whale, varieties of, 284, 285, 286, 2S7, 288. 
Greenland, 2S5, 2S6. 
Large Stranded, 286, 287, 288. 
Razor-Back, 286. 

White, see White Porpoise, 281, 282. 
young, driven ashore, 286. 
Whip-Sting Ray, 229. 
White-bellied Cat-Fish. 186. 
Dace, or Shiner, 297. 
Fish, see Menhaden, etc., 243, 250. 
of the Lakes, 253. 
or Lake Shad, 212, 213. 
large catch of, 213. 
Lake Bass, or White Bass, 260. 
Perch, Gray Perch, etc., 185, 291. 
Porch, large haul of, 291. 
Porpoise, or Whale, 281. 
Tailed Remora. 299, 300. 
Whiting, see King-Fish, 239. 
Wilks, see Winkles, 311. 
Winkles, or Periwinkles, 311. 
Winter Flounders, etc., 245. 
Yellow-Bellied Perch, 297. 

Caranx, or Yellow Mackerel, 293. 

Finned Red-Mouth, 290. 

Perch, or Yellow-Barred Perch, 185, 

245. 
Pike Perch, Glass-Eyed Pike, Big- 
Eyed Pike, Pike of the Lakes, or Ohio 
Salmon, 208, 209. 



VEGETABLES, POT AND MEDICINAL HERBS, POT- 
PLANTS, ROOTS, Etc. 



Alecost, see Costmary, 361. 
Alexanders, or Alisanders, 



Angelica Garden, 858. 
i Anise-seed, 358. 



INDEX. 



U7 



Artichokes, Jerusalem, 322, 323. 

various kinds of, 322, 323. 
Asparagus, varieties of, 323. 
Balm, 358. 

Basil, varieties of, 358. 
Beans, Lima, 323, 324. 

Shell, 324. 

Strins, or Snap, 323, 324. 

various kinds of, 323, 824. 
Bene Plant, 358, 359. 
Beet-Greens, 324 
Beets, varieties of, 324. 

Young, 324. 
Birch, the various uses of, 359. 
Bloodroot, 359. 

Boneset, or Thoroughwort, 359. 
Borage, 359. 

Borecole, or Green-Curled Kale, 324, 325. 
Brocoli, varieties of, 325. 
Brook-Lime, 359. 
Brussel-Sprouts, 325. 
Burdock, 359. 

Burnet, or Garden Burnet, 359, 360. 
Cabbage, large, 326. 

various kinds, 325, 326. 
Turnip, see Kohl Rabi, 334. 
Calabash, see Gourd, 333. 
Calamus, or Sweet Flag, 360. 
Camomile, see Chamomile, 360. 
Capers, 360. 

Capsicum, see Peppers, 826, 341. 
Caraway, 360. 
Cardoons, 326. 

Carolina Potatoes, see Sweet Potatoes, 345. 
Carrots, varieties of. 327. 
Catnip, or Catmint, 860. 
Cauliflower, varieties of, 327. 
Cavish, Scavish, or Scabious, 327. 
Cedar Berries, see Juniper Berries, 362, 363. 
Celeriac, or Turnip -rooted Celery, 327. 
Celery, Turnip-rooted, 327. 

varieties of, 32S. 
Chamomile, see Camomile, 360. 
Chard, or Swiss Chard, 328. 
Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, 360. 
Parsnip, 340. 
Turnip-rooted, 340. 
Chickory, or Wild Endive, 328, 329, 360, 361. 
Chinese Potato, or Japanese Yam, 357. 
Cicely the Sweet, see Chervil, 360. 
Cives, Chives, or Shives, 329. 
Clary, 361. 

Coleworts, or Collards, 330. 
Coltsfoot, 361. 
Comfrey, 361 

Common Mint, see Spear Mint, 364. 
Coriander, 361. 

Corn (sweet), see Indian Corn, 330, 331. 
Corn Salad, Lamb's Lettuce, or Fetticus, 830. 
Costmary, or Alecost, 361. 
Cowslip, see Marigold, 363. 
Cress, Early Hedge, 330. 



Indian, 330. 

varieties of, 330. 

Small Water, 330. 

Winter, 330. 
Cucumber, Jamaica, see Gherkins, 332. 

varieties of, 330, 331. 
Dandelion, 331, 332. 
Dill, 361. 
Dock, Horse, 331. 

Patience, 331. 

Yellow, 331. 



Dragon's Wort, see Tarragon, 366. 
Egg Plant, 332. 
Elecampane, 361. 
Endive, or Succory, 332. 

Wild, see Chicory, 328. 
Eschallot, see Shallot, 350. 
Fetticus, see Corn Salad, 330. 
Fennel, varieties of the, 862. 
Flag Onion, see Leek, 335. 
Garden Angelica, 358. 

Burnet, see Burnet, 359. 
Garlic, 332. 

German Eampion, or Evening Primrose, 348. 
Gherkins, or Jamaica Cucumber, 332, 333. 
Globe Artichoke, 322. 
Gourd, or Calabash, 333. 
Green Mint, see Spear Mint, 364. 
Guinea-Squash, see Egg-Plant, 332. 
Gumbo, see Okra, 338. 
Hoarhound, 362. 
Hops, 362. 
Horse Radish, 333. 



Indian Bread, see Tuckahoe, 356. 
Corn, or Maize. 333, 334 
Cress, or Nasturtium, 330. 
Japan Squash, 352. 
Japanese Yam, 357. 
Jerusalem Artichoke, 322, 323. 
Juniper Berries, 362. 
Kale, Egyptian, see Kohl Rabi, 334 
Green Curled, see Borecole, 334 
Sea, 350. 
Kohl Rabi, Turnip-rooted Cabbage, or Dutch 

Turnip, 334, 335. 
Lamb's Quarter, 335. 
Lavender, 363. 
Leek, or Flag Onion, 335. 
Lentils, 335. 
Lettuce, Lamb's, 6ee Corn Salad, 330. 

varieties of, 335. 
Licorice, or Liquorice, 363. 
Lovage, 363. 

Love-Apple, see Tomato, 353. 
Maize, see Indian Corn, 333. 
Mangel- Wurtzel, 336. 
Marjoram, Sweet, 363. 
Marsh-Mallow, 363. 

Marigold, 363. 
Martynia, 336. 

Mascul-Plant, see Morel, 836. 
Medicinal, and other Plants, 358. 
Mint, Common, 363, 864 
Green, 363, 364. 
Pennyroyal, 363, 364 
Pepper, 363, 364 
Spear, 363, 364 
varieties of, 363, 364. 
Milk-Weed, or Milk- Vetch, 336. 
Morel, Morill, or Mascul-Plant, 336, 337, 

354 
Mushrooms, and how to judge them, 337, 338. 

quick and large growth, 388. 
Mustard, varieties of, 838. 
Nasturtium, or Indian Cress, 338. 
Okra, or Gumbo, 338, 339. 
Onions, a law on the weight of a rope of, 339. 
Flag, see Leek, 334 
large, 339, 340. 
rope, or string of, 339. 
varieties of, 339. 
Orach, or Orach e, 340. 
Oyster-Plant, Black, see Scorzonera, 350. 
' see Salsify, 341, 349. 



448 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



Oyster- iant, Spanish, see Scolymus, 349. 
Parslane, see Purslain, 347. 
Parsley, varieties of, 340. 
Parsnips, varieties of, 340. 

Chervil, or Turnip-rooted Chervil. 340. 
Patience Dock, 331. 
Peas, varieties of, 340, 341. 
Pennyroyal Mint, 363, 364. 
Pepper- Grass, see Garden-Cress, 330. 

Mint, 363, 364. 
Peppers, or Capsicum, varieties of, 341. 
Pie-Plant, see Ehubarb, 341, 348. 
Pigeon-Berries, see Poke-Berries, 364 
Pig- Weed. 341, 342. 
Poke, or Poke-Weed, 342. 

Berries, or Pigeon-Berries, 364 
Potatoes, varieties of, 342, 343, 344. 
Bermuda, large, 343. 
Chinese, see Japanese Yams, 35T. 
Sweet, or Carolina, 345, 
Pot-Herbs, 358. 

Plants and Boots, 415, 416. 
Pumpkins, varieties of, 345, 346. 

King of the, custom of Paris, 347. 
Meal, 346. 
Purslane, or Parslain, 347. 
Eadish, Horse, 333. 
Radishes, varieties of, 347, 348. 
Rainpion, 348. 

German, 348. 
Eape, 348. 

Easpberry Tomato, see Vegetable Cherry, 892. 
Ehubarb, or Pie-Plant, varieties of, 348, 349. 

leaves poisonous, 349. 
Eocket, or Eoquette, 364. 
Eoot of Scarcity, see Mangel-Wurtzel, 336. 
Eoots and Pot-Plants, 415, 416. 
Eosemary, varieties of, 364. 
Eue, 364 365. 

Eutabaga, or Eussian Turnip, 356. 
Sage, varieties of, 365. 
Salsify, Oyster-Plant, or Vegetable Oyster, 

Samphire, or Sea-Fennel, 365. 

Sassafras, 365. 

Savory, varieties of, 365. 

Savoy Cabbage, 325, 326. 

Scaroll, see Endive, 332. 

Scavish, see Cavish, 327. 

Scolymus, or Spanish Oyster-Plant, 349, 350. 

Scorzonera, or black Oyster-Plant, 350 

Sea-Fennel, see Samphire, 365. 

Kale, 350. 
Shallot, or Eschallot, 350. 
Shepherd Sprouts, 350. 
Shives, see Cives, 329. 
Skirret, 350, 351. 



Sorrel, varieties of, 351. 

Southern- wood, 365. 

Spear-Mint, Green Mint, or Common Mint, 

363, 364. 
Spinach, or Spinage, 351, 352. 
Sprouts, Shepherd, 350. 
Spruce, Black, or Double Spruce, 365. 
Squash, Boston Marrow, 352. 
Custard, 352. 

Guinea, see Egg-Plant, 332. 
Japan, 352. 
Mammoth, 352. 
Turkey Cap, 352. 
Valparaiso, 352. 
Stirtion, see Nasturtium, 338. 
Succory, see Endive, 332. 
Sumach, or Smooth Sumach, 366. 
Sweet Corn, see Indian Corn, 353. 

Flag, see Calamus, 360. 
Sweet Marjoram, 363. 

Potatoes, varieties of, 345, 35a 
Large growth of, 345. 
Swiss Chards, see Chards, 328. 
Talta-ruben, or German Turnip, 353. 
Tansey, 366. 

Tarragon, or Dragon's- wort, 366. 
Thoroughwort, see Boneset, 359. 
Thyme, Common and Lemon, 366. 
Tomatoes, Varieties of, 353. 
Truffles, and the hunting for them, 353, 354. 355. 

356. 
Tuberous-rooted Oxalis, 351. 
Sorrel, 351. 
Tuckahoe, or Indian Bread, 356. 
Turnip or Turnep, 356. 

Cabbage, or Dutch, see Kohl Eabi, 834 
German, see Talta-ruben, 353. 
Eutabaga, 356. 
Eooted Celery, 327. 

Chervil, see Parsnip Chervil, 340. 
Turnips, or Turneps, varieties of, 356, 357. 
Vegetable Cherry, Ground Cherry, etc., 392, 393. 
Gooseberry, 393. 
Marrow, 357. 
Oyster, see Salsify, 349. 
Plants, 820. 
Supplies, 321, 322. 
Vetch-Milk, or Milk-weed, 336. 
Watercress, small, 330. 
Wild-Endive, see Chicory, 328. 
Winter Cress, 330. 

Wormwood, or Common Wormwood, 366. 
Yam, 357. 

Japanese, see Chinese Potato, 357. 
Yellow Dock, see Dock, 331. 
Young Beets, 324. 



FRUITS AND NUTS. 



Almonds, Earth, see Ground-Nuts, 397. 

varieties of, 394 
Apples, for Fall or Autumn use, 369, 370. 

for Summer use, 369. 

for Winter and Spring use, 370. 

varieties of, 369, 370, 371. 

very large, 371. 
Apricot, varieties of the, 371. 
American Medlar, see Persimmon, 386. 
Bananas, varieties of, 371. 
Barberries, Berberries, or Pepperidge Bush 
Berries, 371,372. 



Beach Plum of Sand Plum, 372. 
Beech -Nuts, or Beech-Mast, 394 
Bilberries, 372. 
Bitter-Nut, Hickories, 398. 
Blackberries, varieties of, 372. 373. 
Black Currants, 375. 

Black Gumberries, Sour Gumberries, Tupelo 
or Pepperidge-Berries, 373. ' 

Black Walnuts, 395. 
Blueberries, see Whortleberries, 393. 
Brazil Nuts, 395. 
Buckeyes, see Horse-Chestnuts, 398. 



INDEX. 



449 



Buffalo- Berry, see Shepardia, 373, 390. 
Batter-Nats, White Walnuts, or Oil-Nuts, 395. 
Cashew-Nuts, 395, 396. 

Checker- Berries, see Wintergreen Berries, 394. 
Cherries, varieties of, 373, 374. 

Wild. 393. 
Chestnuts, varieties of, 396. 

Dwarf, see Chinquapin Nuts, 396. 
Chinquapin Nuts, or Dwarf Chestnuts, 396. 
Chufa, see Ground-Nuts, 397. 
Citron, 374. % 

Cocoa-Nut, 396. 
Crab-Apples, varieties of, 370. 
Cranberries, varieties of, 374, 375. 
Currants, Black, 375. 
Dried, 375. 
varieties of, 875. 
Custard-Apple, see Paw-Paw, 375, 384 
Dates, their cultivation in North America, 375. 
Dewberries, see Blackberries, 372, 375. 
Drams, see Black Gumberries. 373. 
Dried Currants, 375. 
Earth Almonds, see Ground-Nuts, 397. 
Earth-Nuts, see Pea-Nuts, 399. 
Elderberries, 376. 

English Walnuts, see Madeira-Nuts, 398. 
Figs, 376. 
Filberts, Wild, see Hazel-Nuts, 379. 

varieties of, 396. 
Forbidden Fruit, see Grape Fruit, 378. 
Fox Grapes, or Wild Grapes, 376. 
Frost Grapes, see Winter Grapes, 393. 
Fruits, Ripe and Unripe, 36S, 3611. 
Gooseberries, varieties of, 376, 377. 
Granadilla, or May-Apple, 377. 
Grape Fruit, or Forbidden Fruit, 378. 
Grapes, Fox, or Wild Grapes, 376. 

Frost, see Winter Grapes, 393, 394. 
Grapes, varieties of, 377, 378. 
Ground-Berries, see Tallow-Berries, 392. 

Cherry, see Vegetable Cherry, 378. 
Easpberry-Tomato, 392, 3'.»3. 
Nuts, Chufa, or Earth- Almonds, 397. 
Peas, see Pea-Nuts, 399. 
Gumberries, Black, 873. 

Sour, 373. 
Hazel-Nuts, or Wild Filberts, 897. 
Haws, see Thorn-Apple, 392. 
Hickory-Nuts, Bitter, 398. 
Hog, 398. 
Illinois, 400. 
Mocker-Nuts, 398. 
Pig, 398. 

Shell-Bark, or Shag-Bark, 398. 
Swamp, 398. 
Thick-shelled, 898. 
varieties of, 397, 39S. 
Hog-Apple, see Mandrake, 379. 
Honey-Bean, or Sweet Locust Fruit, 378. 
Horse-Chestnuts, or Buckeyes. 398. 
Huckleberries, see Whortleberries, 393. 
Illinois Cherry, see Wild Plums, 3S8. 

Hickory Nut, see Pecan-Nut, 400. 
Indian Fig, see Prickly Pear, 3S8. 
June-Berries, Wild Service-Berries, or May 

Cherries, 37S, 379. 
Juniper-Berries, 362. 
Lemons, 379. 
Limes, 379. 

Madeira, or English Wamuts, 898. 
May Apple, see Granadilla, 377. 
see Mandrake, 379. 
Cherries, see Jane-Berries, 378. 



Mandrake, May Apple, Racoon-Berry, or Wild 

Lemon, 379, 38a 
Medlar, 380. 

Melons, varieties of, 380, 381, 382. 
Macker-Nuts, Hickory, 398. 
Mulberries, varieties of, 382, 383. 
Musk-Melons, varieties of, and cultivation, 380. 
Nanny-Berries, see Partridge-Berries, 3S4 
Nectarines, varieties of, 383. 
Newtown Pippins, origin of the name, 370. 
Oil-Nuts, see Butternuts, 395. 
Olives, 383. 

Oranges, varieties of, 383, SS4 
Partridge-Berries, or Nanny-Berries, 384. 
Paw-Paw, or Custard Apple, 884. 
Peaches, varieties of, 384, 385. 
Pears, varieties of, 385, 386. 
Pea-Nuts, Earth-Nuts, Pindar-Nuts, or Ground 

Peas, 399, 400. 
Pecan-Nuts, 400. 
Pepper idge- Berries, see Black Gumberries, 373. 

Bush-Berries, see Barberries, 371. 
Persimmon, or American Medlar, 386, 387. 
Pig-Nuts, Hickories, 398. 
Pindar-Nuts, see Pea-Nuts, 399. 
Pine-Apples, varieties of, 387. 
Pine-Ivy, see Wintergreen-Berries, 387, 394. 
Pinkster-Apples, see Mandrake, 379. 
Plantains, 371, 381, 3S7. 
Plums, Wild, 387, 388. 

varieties of, 387, 88a 
Pomegranates, 388. 
Prickly Pear, or Indian Fig, 388, 389. 
Prunes, 389. 

Putchamins, see Persimmons, 386. 
Quince, varieties of the, 389. 
Racoon-Berry, see Mandrake, 379. 
Raisins, varieties of, 389. 
Raspberry Tomato, 392. 
Raspberries, varieties of, 390. 
Running Blackberries, see Blackberries, 372,875. 
Sand-Plums, see Beach-Plum, 372. 
Seckel Pear, origin of the, 386. 
Shaddock, 390. 

Shell, or Shag-Barks, Hickory-Nuts, 398. 
Shepardia. or Buffalo-Berry, 390. 
Sloes, or Wild Plums, 390. 
Strawberry Tomato, see Vegetable Cherry, 392. 
Strawberries, varieties of, 390, 391, 392. 
Swamp Hickory Nuts, 398. 
Sweet Locust-Fruit, see Honey Bean, 878. 
Tallow-Berries, or Ground-Berries, 892. 
Tamarinds, different kinds of, 392. 
Tea-Berries, see Wintergreen-Berries, 894 
Thick-Shelled Hickory-Nuts, 398. 
Thorn- Apples, or Haws, 392. 
Tupelo, see Black Gumberries, 873. 
Twiuberries, see Black Gamberries, 873. 
Vegetable Cherry, 392, 393. 
Water-Melons, to judge, 382. 

varieties of, 381, 382. 
White Walnuts, see Butternuts, 895. 
Whortleberries, Huckleberries, or Blueberries, 

393, 394 
Wild Cherries, 393. 

Filberts, see Hazel-Nuts, 397. 

Grapes, see Fox Grapes, 376. 

Lemon, see Mandrakes, 379. 

Plums, several varieties of, 388. 

Service-Berries, see June-Berries, 878. 
Winter-Grapes, or Frost-Grapes, 393, 894 

Green-Berries, Checker-Berries, Tea* 
Berries, or Pine-Ivy, 394 



450 



THE MABKET ASSISTANT. 



DAIRY AND HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS. 



Apple-Butter, 410. 
Sauce, 410. 
Baskets of various kinds, 412, 413. 
Beeswax, 407. 
Birch-Broom, 412. 
Broom Corn, 411, 412. 
Bushel, what makes a, 414, 415. 

Baskets, false representations of, 413. 
Bulrush, or Bushes, 411. 
Butter, an enormous pyramid of, 401, 402. 

Apple, 410. 

various kinds of, 400, 401, 402. 
Cat-Tails, or Meadow Flag, 411. 
Cheese Cream, 402. 

English Dairy, 402. 

mammoth, exhibited at Fair American 
Institute, 404. 

Pine-Apple, 404. 

various kinds of, 402, 403, 404. 
Christmas Greens, 412. 
Churds, 404 
Duck Eggs, 405, 406 
Eggs, Powder, 406. 
Duck, 405. 
Geese, 406. 



Eggs, Guinea-Hen, 406. 

how to preserve, 406. 

Pea-Fowls. 406. 

Turkeys, 406. 
Feathers, various kinds of, 411. 
Goose Eggs, 406. 

Gross, Tare, and Net Weight, 415. 
Guinea Hen's Eggs, 406. 
Hominy, various kinds of, 408, 409. 
Honey, Comb, 406 

Strained, 406, 40T. 
Hops, varieties of, 362. 
Lyed Hominy, see Hominy, 408. 
Maple Molasses, 407. 

Sugar, and the profits of making it, 40T. 

Syrup, 407. 
Meadow-Flag, see Cat-Tails, 411. 
Fea-Fowl's Eggs, 406. 
Pine-Apple Cheese, 404. 
Bushes, see Bulrush, 411. 
Saur-Kraut, or Sour-Krout, 410, 411. 
Smearkase, or Churds, 404, 405. 
Sorghum Syrup, 40S. 
Turkey's Eggs, 406. 
Whisk Brooms, see Broom Corn, 411. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Adams, John Q., presented with a large Cod- 
fish, 215. 

Agricultural Society serves up a Baron of Beef, 
88. 

Albert, Prince, prepares a Highland Ox for the 
" Christmas Dinner," 37. 

Allen, S. G-., raises a large Pumpkin in Penn- 
sylvania, 346. 

Alligator on Long Island shot, 165. 

American Agriculturist on various subjects, 
80, 158, 339, 340, 414. 

American Institute, Sea-Fish exhibited at the, 
194. 

American Museum, Dr. Scudder, purchases a 
Sea-Dog, 19T. 

Amherst, the name of the first fishing smack, 
out of New York, 182. 

Ancients, the food of the, 14. 

Animal food, the effect of, 11-12. 

Animals, names of, changed by being dressed, 
or slaughtered for food ,26. 

Animals, when they should be killed, 32. 

Archdale's North Carolina, notices a large wild 
Turkey, 159. 

Astor, John Jacob, presents the skin of a 
"white wild Sheep," 121. 

Audubon on Buffalo meat, 113. 

Author's indebtedness for assistance, 7. 

Avery, Ealph H., has a very large Turkey, 140. 

Ayres, Mr., serves up a large Oyster, 308. 

Baker, Luke, large yield of Maple Sap from 
one tree, 407. 

Ball, John, shoots a large Loon with a Fish, 157. 

Banks, Sir Joseph, introduces Cranberries in 
England, 374. 

Banks, Robert, on the introduction of the Po- 
tato in England, 343. 

Barnet's, W. S., Saw-fish caught in, mill-pond, 
272. 

Barret, G. L., shoots a wild Turkey in New 
Jersey, 159. 

Barnum's Museum burnt, &c, 153, 194, 282, 315. 

Battery at Castle Garden once a great fishing 
place, 196. 

Bear Market, or Hudson Market, 125. 

Beardsley, Dr. Myron, on taking the Sea Lam- 
prey, 219. 

Beebe, Theophilus, assists to take a monster 
Vampyre of the ocean, 283. 

* Beef-steak Club" on broiling a beef-steak, 45. 



Bell, John G., the well-known Taxidermist, on 
Buffalo meat, Mule Deer, &c, 112, 118, 155. 

Bennett, Dr., on the Tomato, 353. 

Bennett, Richard, raises late Sweet Corn, 333, 
334. 

Bergen, Mr., notices large stalks of Rhubarb, 
349. 

Bernheimer & Sons, kill a Fine Goat, 84. 

Beuchel, Guillaume, introduces Pickled Her- 
ring, 227. 

Blair, Rev. Dr., quantity of Pumpkins from 
two seed, 347. 

Blanchard, Captain Nathan, of Swampscott, 
215. 

Bleeding animals detrimental to their flesh, 
418, 419. 

Bleeker, Mr., harpoons a big Turtle, 315. 

Boll, Mr., exhibits Japanese Yam, 357. 

Borroughs, Edward, in the Wild Duck trade, 
150. 

Boston Sea-Serpent captured, 269, 270. 

Bowen notices potatoes sold by weight, 843, 

Bowman, George, takes an American Angler. 

275,276. 
Bradford, Captain, purchases a Fowl curiosity, 

Bradford's Coffee-house, N. Y, 225. 

Braisted, G. (Fishmonger) takes a Spotted Gun- 
nel out of an Oyster, 247, 308. 

Bribing customs introduced in this country, 
430,431. 

Brittain, Mr., curiosity at the house of, 313. 

Broadfield, Edward, and pickled Sturgeon, 224, 
225. 

Broiling Steaks, a successful expert at, 44, 45. 

Brower, R. D., fishmonger, on catching Fish, 
246, 255, 256, 299. 

Brown, George, the heavy man, wins a Cat- 
fish, 267. 

Brown, James, exhibits large Custard Squash 
and Corn, 352. 

Brown's " Angler's Text-Book," 192. 

Browning's " Bull's Head," a drove of poultry 
at, 144. 

Br own were, J. T., shoots an Alligator on Long 
Island, 164, 165. 

Bry, H. M., produces two crops of Capers, 360. 

Buchanan, President, presented with a big 
Turkey, 140. 

Business lying, the general use of, 22, 23, 24. 



452 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Bunce, Colonel (of St. Clair), takes a large 
Muscalonge, 206. 

"Butcher's Company" (of London) advertise 
casualty flesh, 16. 

Butler, of New Haven, on broiling a Beef- 
steak, 45. 

Burnham, Michael (late), on Fish Chowder, 215. 

Caviare, see Sturgeon, 223, 224. 

Cadwallader, General, of Philadelphia, dines 

on a large Brook Trout, 237. 
Carlyle, John, takes a large Crab, 304. 
Carlyon. Dr.. describes the mixtures of a grand 

dinner, 17, 18. 
Carman, Samuel, catches a large Salmon Trout, 

252. 
Chamber of Commerce on Fishery, 182, 183. 
Charnin, John, on the use of Melons in Per- 
sia, 382. 
Charles the Fifth honors the grave of Beuchel, 

227. 
Chilton, Dr. James E., on the Oyster, 307. 
Chowder, Fish, an excellent, 215. 216. 
Christmas Boxes, the servants', 432, 433. 
Chrystal Palace in N. T. burnt up, 352. 
City sealer's returns on short measures, 25. 
Clickner, C. V., presented with a large Spanish 

Mackerel, 193. 
Clinton, De Witt, on the Otsego Shad Salmon, 

253 
Cod Liver Oil, 215. 

Collier, Dr., shoots at a bony scaled Pike, 279. 
Collins, Colonel Edward, on an Ancient Ox 

Boast, 33, 34. 
Collins, Lieut. Edward, on an Ancient Ox 

Boast, 33,34. 
Colp, Jacob and John, catch Marked Shad, 201. 
Cook, Captain, finds Cranberries at Hudson's 

Bay, 374. 
Cook, qualifications of a good, 423, 424. 
Cooks and Cookery, 423. 
"Coon Hunt," the first and last, 127, 12S, 129. 
Coon, Samuel, takes a large Leather Turtle, 

815. 
Cooper, Mr., marks young Shad, 201. 
Cooper, Petv, purchases cattle feet for making 

glue, &c, 91. 
Corned Beef, the cooking of. 426. 
Cortelyou. Peter, on Shad Fishery, 203. 
Crehore, Mrs. Diana, gives the name to " Diana 

Grapes," 377. 
Crook, Chester K., in possession of a large 

Turkey, 139. 
Cruikshank on Cooks, 427, 428, 429. 
Crumby, J., takes a large Salmon Trout, 252. 
Cudlip, Joseph, produces a large head of 

Spinach, 352. 
Curtis, Dr., Clinton Grape grown on the prem- 
ises of, 377, 378. 
Cuttyhonk, the fishermen at, 207, 208. 
Cuvier on the age of the "Whale, 286. 

Darien Exploring Expedition, starving men in 

the, 113. 
Davis, G., great fishing for Sea Bass by, 199. 
Davis, William, choked by a Soal, 294. 
Dealers, the character of some of the, 22, 23, 

24,25. 
Deas, Captain James, takes Salmon in the 

North River, 192. 
Debevoise Robert, cultivates the Strawberry, 

891. 
Decatur (Com.), and the Devil Fish, 277. 
De Kays Fauna, &c, from, 210, 275, 298, 299. 



De La Coste, Mr., on Canvas Backs, 151. 

Denman, Wm. P., Member N. Y. Turtle Club 
312. 

De Toe, Colonel Half, Bison Beef sold by, 59. 

Dickinson, Nathaniel, has a Half-moose Calf, 
120. 

Diet, an amusing article on, 100 years ago, 14, 
15, 16. 

Dinner, subject, a common, 6. 

Dodd, F., takes the " Henry Clay Trout," 252. 
Isaac, kills three Otters at a shot, 132. 

Downing, Mr., and his drove of Poultry, 144. 

Drumgold, James, Secretary of the Fisherman's 
Club, 238. 

Duchalet, M., on Horseflesh in Paris, 18. 

Duncan, Mrs. John, " Scotch Haggis" by, 94. 

Dunshee. Henry W., on the origin of Beef- 
steak, 41, 42, 43. 

Dwight, Dr. Timothy, on the Horse Mackerel, 



Earle, John, catches large quantities of Drum- 
fish, 264. 

Eaton's Review of the Market Places, 7, 8, 9. 

Economy in the use of Meats, 416, 417. 

Edwards, Milne, on Fish culture, 187. 

Eldridge and Ashley, Fishmongers, 193. 

Ellis, Mr., with three Fish on one hook. 196. 

Elizabeth, Queen (eating Goose on " Michael- 
mas Day"), 141, 144. 

Esquimaux, eating the Whale, 284, 285. 

Evans (George), and Son (Tanners), 240. 

Extravagancies of Nature in Vegetables, 346. 

Faneuil Hall Market, 116, 215. 

Farmers' Tricks of Trade (in topping, short 
measure, etc.), 414. 

Fingallon, a Lusty, on " Lyng," 262. 

Fisherman's Fishy F— Fort. 319, 320. 

"Fishing Women," and large Halibut, 318. 
„ Smacks, the origin, 181, 186. 

Fishery, the Legislature encourage, 182, 183. 

Fitzwalter, Robert, Flitch of Bacon. 100. 

Food, the first natural demand of man, 11. 

Fordham, Daniel, kills a large Curlew, 163. 

Francois, Xavier, takes a large Oyster, 30S. 

Franklin, Dr., on the Dolphin and Broom Corn, 
271, 412. 

Frederick II. and the Winged Pike, 212. 

Fuller, Doctor, on the Rohan Potato, 348. 

Fuller, E. W.. catches an armed Genus Fili- 
buster, 279, 280. 

Furman's Notes on various subjects, 204, 213, 
370, 375, 891. 

Garnett, Hon. James M., on the Tuckahoe, 356. 
Genin, the Hatter, in possession of a Big Trout, 

233. 
Gelston. D , raises large Pumpkins from two 

seed, 346. 
George, David, choked by a Sole, 294. 
Gibbons, Thomas, an old Fly Market butcher, 
. 38, 47. 
Gibbs, George, introduces the Isabella Grape, 

377. 
Gibbs, Mrs. Isabella, gives the name of do., 377. 
Girard, Stephen, Seckel Pear on the land of, 386. 
Giraud's Birds, on the Flesh of Gulls and 

Terns, 170. 
Go-between, speculators in marketing, 21, 22. 
Going to Market, " olden and modern custom," 

21. 
Goodhand. Thomas, on a jugged Cat-fish, 264, 

265. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



453 



Goswold's men eating too much Dog-fish, 232. 

Goulding, Captain Thomas, on Ox Boasting, 
33, 34. 

Goundie, G. H., on a large Brook Trout, 237. 

Graham, John, kills a White Bear in Pennsyl- 
vania, 125, 126. 

Grant, Dr., cultivates the Date in Georgia, 375. 

Grebuchet, Madame, and the " Stale" Lobster, 
302, 303. 

Greeley, Horace, on the flesh of the Prong 
Horn, 120. 

Green, Mr., gives name to Greening Apple, 370. 

Greenfield, Thomas, maker of a Watch, 211. 

Griffith's Store, a large cone of Butter at, 401. 

Gross, Tare, and Net Weight described, 415. 

Hains and Breneman's Fishery, 157. 
Hall, Captain Henry, early cultivation of Cran- 
berries, 374, 375. 
Hall, Charles Francis, on Whale Meat, 284, 285. 
Haroldson, Mr., shoots Bony-scaled Pike, 279. 
Hart, Mr., a good shot, 154. 
Havens, Mr. and Family, poisoned by Ehubarb 

Leaves, 349. 
Hawkins, John, imports Potatoes into Europe, 

344. 
Haycock, Solomon, and the Bottled Fish, 264, 

265. 
Hazzard, Samuel, on the customs in the Island 

of Malta, 136. 
Hazzard's U. S. Eegister notices a monster Sun 

Fish, 280. 
Hedden and Sons, poulterers, &c, 135, 323. 
Herbert, Henry William, on Field Sports, 145, 

146. 
Hind-quarters of some animals not used by the 

Jews, 19. 
Hills & Stringer introduce Dandelion Coffee, 

331 332 
Hill, Mrs. Ann, on preparing Kolliches, 102, 103. 
Holbrook, Anthony, Fishmonger of Quincy 

Market, 215. 
Horseflesh as food, 12, 13. 
Hotaling, Messrs. S. & W., exhibit large 

Cheeses, 403. 
Hot-corn ! Hot-corn 1 the cry of, 834. 
Hough, F. B., on the name Sisco, 298. 
Howland, Captain, catches a large Eel, 241. 
Hoyt, J. C, destroying Woodchucks, 130. 
Hudson Market or Bear Market, the origin of, 

125. 
Hyam, Mrs., The Ancient Ham, 108. 

Ingersoll, Captain Josiah, struck with a Sea 

Bass, 199. 
Irwin, Dr. W. A., kills two Antelopes with one 

shot, 120. 

Jackson, President, a large Cheese presented 
to, 402. 

Jackson, Samuel, Strawberries cultivated near 
the land of, 391. 

James, Reuben, Decatur's Coxswain, and Devil- 
fish, 277. 

Jefferson, President, a large Cheese presented 
to, 402. 

Jeroleman's " Punch House" at " Tea Water 
Pump," 221. 

Jew Butcher, or Shoket, 18, 87 

Jewish customs on eating, 18. 

Jewish mode of slaughtering an animal, 18. 

Jews, Fish used by the, 181. 

Jews, cause of refusal to eat the flesh from the 
Hind-quarter, 19. 



Johnson, Mr., of " Walton House," River at 
Saranac, 205. 

Johnson, B. P., Sec. N. Y. S. Ag. Sec , 28. 

Johnson, Peter, in a dreadful fight with a 
Shark, 234, 235. 

Johnson, President, and the Big Turkey, 140. 

Jones, Aaron R., on the cultivation of Musk- 
Melons and Peaches, 380, 381, 385. 

Josselyn, John, on the flesh of Porpoises and 
Sharks, 230. 

Juett's Journal on Salmon in the North River, 
191. 

Kahn, Professor, on the Skunk, Dolphin, Lob- 
ster, etc., 130, 131, 271, 302. 

Kellar, Mr., catches a large Lake Cat-fish, 267. 

Kemp and Buskey, in the Wild Duck Trade, 150. 

Knight, Dr. James, on the Vegetable Cherry, 
392, 393. 

Kohl-Slaw or Salat, 325. 

Korkie, Louis S., catches a Two-headed Terra- 
pin, 314. 

King George the Second and the Jewelled 
Roasted Ox, 33, 34. 

King Henry the First and Stewed Lamprey, 219. 

Law, Judge, on the Paw-Paw, 384. 

Lawrence, Thomas, taking the Cow-nosed 
Ray, 229. 

Legg, High, attests to a Bottled Fish, 264, 265, 

Lockwood, Mr., connected with a Loon-inci- 
dent, 157. 

Locusts used as food, 12. 

Loranger, Joseph, (Detroit), 205. 

Lounsberry, Widow, makes sale of a large Tur- 
key, 140. 

Mackinnon, Captain, catches Turbot, 256. 
Maitland, Robert L., raises English Pheasants, 

162, 163. 
Market assistants not always trustworthy, 21, 

22. 
Market, going to, now and fifty years ago, 21, 

22, 23, 24, 25, 26. 
Market laws relating to the West Indies, 84. 
Marie's samples of Cured Meat, 107. 
Martin— ancient mode of dishing the Pea Fowl, 

141. 
Mathews, J. M. 140. j Purchase a large 

Mathews, Hunt & Co., 140. { Turkey, etc 
McComb, Mr., keeps domesticated Wild Geese, 

14S. 
Meacham, Col. Thos. S., produces large Cheeses 

and Cones of Butter, 401, 402, 403, 404. 
Measures, custom of heaping, 25. 
Measures, seized for deficiency, 25. 
Measuring, law or custom of, 25. 
Meigs, Hon. Judge Henry, on Whale Flesh, 284. 
Military Hero and the Poulterer, 22. 
Miller, Samuel B. & Brother, fishmongers, 194, 

204, 240, 253, 273, 274, 278. 
Mingay, J. B., shows large White Asparagus, 

323. 
Mitchell, Dr. Samuel L., on various kinds of 

Fish, 121, 229, 266, 281, 283. 
Mitchell's plan of curing Herring, 227. 
Modern fashion of Marketing, 21, 22. 
Moore, Dr., thinks on the weight of a Saw-fish, 

272. 
Morren, Professor, on the use of Oxalis, 351. 
Morris, Hon. Robert H., presented with a large 

Shad, 200. 
Morrison, Martin, on the origin of Porterhouse 

Steaks, 45, 46. 



454 



THE MARKET ASSISTANT. 



Morton, George, on Shad as a Manure, 202. 
Moschett, fishmonger, on Fish, 273. 
Mule-meat as food, 13. 
Museum, American, or New York, receives a 

large Muscalonge, 206. 
Murat, Prince Achille, on the Buzzard's fiesh, 

Neale, William, introduces Khubarb, 349. 
Niblo, Mr. and Mrs. William, on a "Baron of 

Beef," 38, 39. 
Niblo, William, receives Choice Game, 150, 

151,161. 
Niles, .John, agent for tho sale of Salmon in 

New York, 192, 193. 
Niles Begister on Fish, 279, 282, 283, 284. 
Nims, E., on a Woodchuck hunt, 130. 
North, Professor, on the Clinton Grape, 377. 
Norton, Charles, raises a large Turkey, 139. 

iqq° n ' Henr y G -> introduces a large Turkey, 

Noyes, Dr., Clinton Grape-vine planted near 
house of, 378. 



Oakley, George, catches a large Cat-fish, 267. 

282 ban ' Dr '' ° n the Whit0 Por P°ise, 281 
Old New Yorkers, custom of the, 21. 
Ordinance on the sale of Oysters, 307. 



Packer & Knapp, poulterers, 139. 

Page, G. S., takes a large Brook Trout, 237, 238. 

±*atchen, John, assists to take a monster Vam- 

pyre of the Ocean, 283. 
Pa, JL custom with tho King of the Pumpkins, 

P o r o k o er ' W '> takes a bi S Trout in Lake O'Claire, 
238. 

Parmly, Dr. Eleazer, used Cattle's Teoth origi- 
nally, 90. 
Paul, Wm., shows several dead Moose and Elk, 

Peake, Mrs. Eebecca, gives the nam* to Re- 
becca Grapes, 377. 

Peale's Museum in Philadelphia, Saw-Fish pre- 
served in, 272. 

Peale's, Eeuben, Pantheon Museum in New 
York, 314. 

Percentages between tradesmen and servants. 
430, 431, 432. 

Perry, Justice, the seller of unknown flesh be- 
fore, 420, 421. 

Pessinger, George, witness on an unwholesome 
meat case, 420, 421. 

Phipson, Dr., on African Locusts as food, 12. ' 

Pierpont, H. B, Strawberries cultivated near 
the land of, 391. 

Pilot, the old, and Porter-house Steaks, 46, 47. 

Plaucus, Lucius, on the origin of Beefsteak, 42 

Potter, Wm., assists to take a monster Fish 283 

Porch er, animal anatomist for the Jews, 19 

Porter-houses fifty years ago, 45, 46, 47 

Preface to " The Market Assistant," 5. 

Preparing Fish for cooking, 318. 

Preserving Fish fresh, 31S. 

Prescot, Josiah, shoots four Moose in one place, 

Prize cattle, what produces, 28, 29. 
Provisions, fresh, how to carry in warm 

weather, 27. . 

Public markets, what they should be, 9, 10. 

Queen Elizabeth, Potatoes discovered in the 
reign of, 344. 



Raleigh, Sir Walter, introduction of the Potato 

343, 344. 
Rats as human food, 14. 
Raymond, George, drives an Elk-team, 117. 
Remy, John, origin of fish culture, 187. 

m Sh £ a P tain > takes tne " Boston Sea-Serpent," 
269, 270. 

Ri o h o ard ' Wm., plants Lobsters near Hell-Gate, 

302. 
Richardson's evidence on the Lump-Fish, 278. 
Riker on the Newtown Pippin, 370. 
Roberts, John, marks young Shad, 201 
Roberts, John, of the " Cross Keys," 211. 
Robinson, Henry, introduces Carp in the North 

River, 290, 291. 
Rogers, N, agent for fresh Salmon, 193. 
Rogers, Wm. M., fishmonger, shows a largo 

Muscalonge, 204. 
Rogers & Co., fishmongers, 206, 241. 
Ross, Mr., 131. 
Royal Baron of Beef" a Christmas dinner for 

the sovereign of England, 37. 
Russell's, Judge, judgment on the sellers of 

young Veal, 421. 

Sammis, George T., shoots two Swans, 148. 
Saunders's, Isaac, son carried off by a Bear 126 
Savage, Mr., keeper of a Museum in New 
- York, 197. 
Scales, L. W., exhibits an enormous Alligator 

(iar, 279. 
Schenck, P. A., possesses two stuffed Ducks, 151 
Schneider, Jacob, of Leigh Water Gap, 237 
Schomp, Major H. G, to the old Goose, 143. 
Schomp, Robert, exhibited at the Fair, 143. 
Schultz, Captain A. H., and Bass, 197, 198. 
Scott's, Lieut-Gen., opinion on Half-Bieon 

Beet; 59. 
Scriba's Seat, Newark, N. J., 159. 

Scudder, John, proprietor of , 197. 

Scudders American Museum, big Turtlo put 

Seckel, Mr., gives the name to Seckel Pear, 886 
Seisco, Dr. James D., gives name of Sisco to 

that Fish, 298. 
Sharp, Solomon, on the Porpoise, 231. 
Shellar, Robert, Turtling with a rat-trap, 316 
Shields, William G., shoots the " Big Duck," 115. 
Shoket, a Jew butcher, or cutter, 18. 19. 
"Shoppers" and "Runners," the character of 

some of the, 33, 34. 
Shubert, Philip, catches marked Shad, 201. 
Sibley, John Langdon, on the plentifulnoss ot 

Moose, 119. 
Simon, Captain, sloop Science, catches tho 

Leaping Sturgeon, 226. 
Simpson, Jr., Wm., exhibits Wood-Duck at the 

Fair, 152. 
Singleton, William M., raises Tamarmd-Treea 

in Virginia, 392. 
Skinner, Bryant, and Kendal, Drs., and the 

Shark-torn man, 235. 
Smith, Captain John, noticed Persimmons as 

Putchamins, 386. 
Smith, Dr., on Fish of various kinds, 224, 241, 
Smith, Gideon B., letter from Audubon on 

Buffalo, 113. 
Smith, Wm. S., takes a Cow-nosed Ray, 229. 
Smyth, Col , receives a large Muscalonge, 206. 
Snediker, Abraham, on the Weaser, 154. 
Southmayd, Horace, on the success of broilinff 

Beefeteaks, 44, 45. 
Speculators, go-between, families furnished by 



INDEX. 



455 



Stanley, Henry O., successful Brook-Trout fish- 
ing, 238. 
Starr, George, on the Cow-nosed Kay, 229. 
Stetson, Captain, and the Rich Haddock, 217. 
St. George's Society, has several Barons of Beef 

roasted, 38. 
St. Hilaire, Goeffrey, opinion on Fish culture, 

187. 
St. Nicholas Society purchases a Mammoth 

Cheese, 402. 
Storer, on various kinds of Fish, 269, 280. 
Street Pedlers, rascality among the, 25. 
Suckatash, great Indian dish called, 334. 
Sumner, Major Joh, dies from eating poisonous 

Dolphin, 271, 272. 
Swartcope, John V., early cultivation of the 

Strawberry by, 391. 
Sykes, Wm, of the " New York Coffee House," 

38, 110, 150, 151. 

Tallman, Benjamin, large catch of Menhaden, 

251. 
Taylor, Lieutenant, on an ancient Ox-roast, 34. 
Teall, Horace, and the Coppery Black Bass, 

219. 
Tetley, Richard, shoots a very large Woodcock, 

164. 
" The Market Book," 5, 125. 
The Market-place as described by Eaton, 7, 8, 9. 
Tiffany, Ellis & Co., have three large Brook 

Trout, 237. 
Tilton, Messrs., dealers in live Poultry, 137. 
Thompson, Alfred G., presents large Shad, 200. 
Thompson, John (early known as Scotch 

Johnny), 224, 225. 
Thorburn, Grant, exhibits a curious Turnip, 357. 
Thorburn, Grant C, exhibits a large Pumpkin, 

346. 
Thurber, Professor, on Sheep's Casins, 94. 
Tofts, Elizabeth, the Babbit Woman, who used 

Cats instead, 16. 
Townshend, Wm., catches a monstrous Eel 

341, 342. 
Trajan, Emperor, on the origin of Beef-Steak, 42. 
Turell, Mr., has an enormous Clam-Shell, 309. 
Tuthill, T. V., on the the taking of Porgees, etc., 



Underbill, Mr., produces large Asparagus, 323. 
Uring, Capt. N., on making hominy at the 
South, 409. 



Vanderbilt, Mr., Engineer, on the Loon, 157, 158. 

Van Banst, Mr., takes a Green Turtle at Bush- 
wick Creek, 312. 

Veazie's, Mr., a monster Sun-Fish taken near, 
280, 281. 

Vegetable Food, the effects of, 11, 12. 

Vinsellette, Peter, fishmonger, 200, 295. 

Wagon Pedlers, 25. 

Walton, Isaac, the admirers of, 238. 

Ward, William, marks Young Shad, 201. 

Warriner, Capt. James, on an ancient Ox Boast, 
34. 

Waters, G- F., on the Ground Nut, 397. 

Webb, Chas. H, Almoner of St. George Society, 
38. 

Webb, Mr., shoots a Buffalo bony Pike, 279. 

Webster, Hon. Daniel, presented with a large 
Cheese, etc., 202, 403, 404. 

Weekes, Stephen, Engraver of the wood-cuts, 6. 

Weight and Measure, deficient, 25. 

Welsh, Sandy, of the " Terrapin Lunch," N. Y., 
313, 314. 

West, Mr., President of the Fishermen's Club, 
238. 

What makes a Bushel, 414, 415. 

" What we eat," Title-page, 11. 

Wheeler, Andrew C, butcher, cuts a baron of 
beef large, 39. 

White and Torrey, Pilots, assist to take a large 
Turtle, 315. 

White Bishop, on the origin of the Seckel 
Pear, 386. 

White, Hugh, planted the original Clinton Grape- 
vine, 377, 378. 
Whittemore's Tavern at Beverley exhibits an 

Old Wife. 277. 
Wilkes, Lieutenant, on the flesh of the Ante- 
lope, 120. 
Willis, Mrs. B. exhibits a very large Quince, 389. 
Winslow, Edward, manures land with Shad, 202. 
Wooston, J, produces a large Strawberry, 391, 

392. 
Wunder, E. E., catches a large Brook Trout, 238. 

Yankee Land not least in Pumpkins, 346, 347. 

Yarnell, on the Swan, 142. 

Young, J. B., takes a large Brook Trout 237. 

Zeigler, Mr., of the Eagle Hotel t of Bethal, Pa. 



>--. 



THE MARKET-BOOK. 

BY THOMAS F. DE VOE, 

MEMBER OP THE NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 

In Two Volumes, Octavo, (about 650 pages each.) 

The introduction of the First Volume of " The Market-Book" 
has brought forth several commendatory, notices from the " press * 
and from several prominent individuals, of which extracts have been 
introduced in the- following pages. The first edition having been 
long exhausted, another (revised) will appear, with the Second 
Volume, which will soon be ready for the press. 

" It furnishes a mass of information difficult to be found elsewhere, and gleaned by 
you from sources few seek, and fewer investigate with the care and patience which 
you have exhibited. There are many recitals and telling incidents which deepen the 
interest and give attraction to the work. 

" In its perusal, I was reminded of a remark made by Hallam in his ' Middle Ages,' 
when referring to the ' History of France ' by the Fathers of St. Maur, that you might 
dive at random in it, and could not fail to bring up some curious fact. I write from 
memory ; but such is the purport, if not the words of his observation. So I hold the 
result to be in regard to your work. 

" "What a contrast between the ' Old Burgher Butchers,' whom you characteris- 
tically describe, and their fast descendants ! The change in the spelling of the an- 
cestral names are not greater than the altered mode of living and the luxurious habits 
which mark their generations, in our day. Some have reflected honor on the parent 
stem, whilst others have endeavored to kick away the ladder on which they rose. 
The human race but repeats itself, and with innate tendencies would run into excess, 
but for the file which a growing religious sentiment applies to remove its defects and 
polish its surface. 

" Your well-arranged index is a most valuable aid, and is copious and sententious. 
The theme of your second volume is fruitful with varied and useful topics of great 
public utility." — Frederic Be Peyster, Esq. 

" I must take leave to add how very creditable it is to you as an historian and an 
author. 

"Your research is thorough, so that you are an example to others for its fidelity: 
you are never led away by chimeras that form the romance of history; but show your- 
self in every page a lover of truth and a diligent and successful searcher after truth. 



The style of your -work has everywhere that first merit of clearness ; and is often 
more elegant, I assure you, than that of many who are professed scholars. I am glad, 
too, to respond to the fine patriotic spirit which pervades your work : I agree with you 
fully that ' we must watch, guard, and battle, if necessary, that the Union may be 
preserved.'" — Hon. George Bancroft. 

" It has been so much the habit to make History the mere record of wars, of the 
quarrels of kings, and the intrigues of politicians, that of the more immediate inter- 
ests of the daily life of peoples, their customs, their sports, their markets, their house- 
hold existence, we are left in comparative ignorance. 

" It seems quite fitting that in this, our peoples' form of government and society, a 
new historical path should be struck out, and you have proved yourself a careful and 
skillful pioneer therein." — Hon. Charles King. 

" I have read it carefully through, and as the period over which it extends is one to 
which I have given considerable attention, it affords me great pleasure to say that it 
contains more original and accurate information in respect to local events and manners 
in the early history of the city than any work upon the subject that has appeared dur- 
ing my lifetime. It is chiefly commendable for its industry and its accuracy, and will 
for this reason be more serviceable as a record of past landmarks than other produc- 
tions in the same line of inquiry of much greater pretensions. You have not only 
shown great industry, patience, and care in the collection of materials, but have 
enhanced the value of the book by an index so copious and minute as to enable all 
co-laborers to get at the large amount of original information you have brought to 
light with the least possible loss of time. This is a matter which the writers of books, 
and especially of books of this description, attend to but indifferently ; the conse- 
quence of which is that their labors are not as available to others as they might be, 
and are overlooked by subsequent inquirers, who would otherwise refer to them as 
standard sources of information." — Hon. Charles P. Daly. 

" The very thorough examination which I have been enabled to make of this, tho 
first fruit of your historical labors, has enabled me to speak understandingly when I 
say that it is a monument of patient toil which reflects the very highest credit on the 
diligent laborer who has produced it; and that, as a local history as well as a guide 
to the more general inquirer concerning the past of New York, no work has preceded 
this which for minuteness of detail, for precision of statement, and for undoubted cor- 
rectness, may be at all compared with it as a rival or a substitute." 

Henry B. Dawson, Esq. 

" When I consider the little time you can spare from your attention to business, ' The 
Market-Book ' is at once a monument of your unflinching zeal and untiring indus- 
try. Those only know the drudgery required (and this I speak from experience) in 
searching through musty documents or files of newspapers, to verify or confirm some 
isolated fact, who have performed that service ; your book gives the evidence of this 
most irresistibly. The pages teem with a freshness of historic matter that ought to 
gladden the heart of every New Yorker, but more especially your own profession. 

"The interest of the subject grows as we progress in the perusal; there is a fund 
of humor, of anecdote, and of personal history which incites the reader onward in his 
agreeable task. The arrangement of the book is admirable, and precludes the possi- 
bility of confusion. 

" 1 hope the old market-place of New Amsterdam will ever be secure from innova • 
tion or desecration, and so long as the Bowling Green remains, it will be. And old 
' Fly Market,' although among the things of the past, how many pleasing memories 



3 

it must call up from the storehouse of the past to those among us who rememher its 
noticeable features ! What visions of juicy steaks! — the fat and luscious rib-pieces, 
and the inviting leg of lamb, must be theirs. And there were also those famous old 
fellows of the cleaver, viz: Astor, Pesinger, Gibbons, Seaman, etc., the remembrance 
of whom calls up a secret wish for the enjoyment again of those ' good old times.' 

" To your craft you have rendered an essential service, in rescuing from oblivion 
the many good deeds of your forefathers, who were among thp first to volunteer to 
meet the foe, — to face the pestilence which wasteth at noonday, or extend the hand 
of charity to the needy. 

" I have no doubt but that your book will be fully appreciated, so that you will 
have no cause to regret the labor and time bestowed on its production ; and I heartily 
wish your success in every particular will be adequate to its merits. 

Late William J. Davis, Esq. 

" I beg to express to you the pleasure I have had in reading your historical ac- 
count of the Markets of our city. Having been aware of your persevering labors in 
searching our records and procuring information from every source which could throw 
light on your subject, I anticipated an interesting and reliable work. My expecta- 
tions have been more than realized, and those who feel an interest in our city history 
will feel grateful for the pleasure they must derive from the result of your labors." — 
David T. Valentine, Esq. 

" The items of the history of the city of New York contained in this volume of yours, 
if not the most important in a political aspect, yet is exceedingly valuable in its civil 
and domestic relations. The domestic habitudes of any community controls most 
other interests, and is a pretty true indication of its state of civilization." — Dr. Hor- 
ace Webster. 

11 The patient labor which you have bestowed in the collection of the materials to 
form so complete a history of the rise and progress of Markets in New York, entitles 
you to the thanks of the community. You have given to the world not only a his- 
tory of the rise and progress of Markets, but have also collected and given a vast 
amount of valuable information relating to the transitions through which societies 
and colonies have passed since their first landing among the Indian tribes. Valu- 
able lessons may be learned from the sufferings of the colonists, brought on, as a nat- 
ural consequence, by the falsehood, fraud, and violence practiced by them in dealing 
with these Indian tribes. It is lamentable to find how slow mankind is to learn 
that every act of cruelty brings wretchedness in its train. 

*' It is also encouraging to know — as you have shown — how the fair dealing of 
Gov. Stuyvesant, a single individual, could restore peace and a prosperous trade to a 
whole colony." — Peter Cooper, Esq. 

" You have given to a special department of local history one of the most remark- 
able contributions which it has fallen within my experience to hear or read of. I 
could hardly have thought of a topic less likely to reward literary labor ; and after 
looking with care at what you have done, I confess myself unable to understand by 
what powers for minute observation, or by what process of labor, you have assembled 
so vast an amount of information relative to a subject in which almost the whole 
world considers that the chief business is " consumption; " and which we would sup- 
pose in general treasured so few records for the pen of History. 

" Your volume, past doubt, is encouraging to every investigation into local his- 
tory ; for it shows that nothing in the material world which concerns men at all, is 
without memorials, quite its own, which require but the man and the hour to collect 



and bring them forth for the instruction of every order of society. As I laid down 
your volume, I recalled the declaration of Cicero : '•Etenim omnes artes qua ad human- 
itatem pertinent, habent quoddam commune vinculum : et quasi cognatione quadam, inter 
se continentur.'' 

" The Philadelphia Markets have had, in the estimation of our own people, at least, 
some agreeable distinctions ; and I am happy to hear that you purpose to devote some 
of your efforts to teaching us a little about ourselves." — John William Wallace, Esq. 

" My father has just finished the reading of your work. I need not say how much 
the book gratified him. He expresses a wish that some Philadelphian may have the 
leisure and inclination to write a history of the market-houses in Philadelphia. There 
is ample material for such a history, and I presume such a volume would be accept- 
able to all our citizens, except a few of the aristocracy, who might not wish to have 
their families traced back to the ancient and honorable society of victualers." — John 
A. McAllister, Esq. 

" The subject is one which none better understand than yourself, and you have 
handled it at once in a luminous and agreeable manner; and when I say so, I beg 
you will acquit me of any desire to flatter, unless the. strict truth may be called so." 
— Ferd. J. Dreer, Esq. 

" Its style is clear and vigorous, it is fraught with useful infbrmation, and abounds 
in pleasing anecdote. To me, as an old New Yorker (having lived in the city nearly 
half a century), it has been exceedingly interesting. 

" Many of the facts you state, and scenes you describe, had passed from my mem- 
ory, but you have revived them in all their freshness ; and many of the actors in 
these scenes, whom you name, were, in their day, my personal friends, and some of 
them members of the church to which I minister ; so that, in reading your book, I 
have been thrown once more into communion with many old friends, and lived life 
over again. 

" There is also in this volume much historical matter (some of it connected with our 
Revolutionary struggle) that is both interesting and important; and the proceedings 
of our city authorities from time to time, which you narrate, it appears to me ren- 
ders your book a necessity, or at all events, desideratum, to our authorities now — the 
present ought to learn wisdom from the past, even from its errors. I will only add 
that I cannot but admire the indomitable patience and perseverance displayed in 
your researches. How, with the active business life which you lead, you ever found 
time to collect from various and varied sources such an amount of useful information 
as you have condensed in this volume, I cannot conceive." — Rev. D. J. McElroy. 

" I have read portions of it, and ftnind them highly interesting and instructive. The 
index is of great value. The more I read of the book, the greater is my surprise at 
the diligence and thoroughness and extent of your researches. It seems as if but 
little more could be gleaned on the topics which you have taken up ; and a great 
amount of incidental information respecting the city and its inhabitants has been 
saved by you from oblivion." — Rev. John Langdon Sibley. 

" It is certainly a book of merit, and much more interesting than its title would at 
first suggest. The manner it was received by the New York Historical Society was, 
in my opinion, but a just appreciation of what the book deserves, and my acknowl- 
edgments would add very little to the compliments of a body so distinguished." — 
Rev. Aug. J. Thebaud. 



" I have begun its perusal, and have already become much interested in its historic 
details. It is a unique work, — as satisfactorily filling a blank hitherto unfilled ; — and 
when completed, it will certainly be most creditable to its author, as bearing evidence 
of very careful research, and much literary toil on his part." — Rev. Thomas Lyle. 

" But now what shall I say of the book itself? It really surprises me, and I hardly 
know whether most to admire its multiplicity and range of subject, the perseverance 
and energy which has collected so vast an amount of material from sources not easily 
accessible, or the judgment and correct taste shown in their arrangement and con- 
necting remarks. All is admirable. 

" I will now confess, that when you first mentioned the intended work several years 
ago, and hinted that some day it might be in print, I feared it would not be possible to 
invest so dry a subject (seemingly) with sufficient interest to make the book readable, 
and that disappointment would be the result. 

" Your lecture removed that fear, and begat a strong hope of its success among a 
certain class. But really, your Market is so superabundantly supplied with ' tit bits ' 
of every kind, and suited to the craving of every appetite, that only a nondescript can 
fail to find what pleases his palate ! 

" The book is a feast of fat things to men of antiquarian tastes ; and while reveling 
in the lusciousness of such a repast they cannot but admire the industry which 
prepared, and the public spirit that has placed it before them. In this view, it is a 
valuable contribution to the history of New York. 

" The intelligent man of leisure will value it as a collection of those rare and curi- 
ous incidents which enter so largely into the history of a people, and so clearly serve 
to illustrate their progress. 

" In this respect you have spoken of every thing, from the ' Cedars of Lebanon to 
the Hyssop on the Wall.' From ' Mars on a market-day smiling at Mrs. Mingay's 
call, to old Johnny Day's gratitude to his benefactress ' ; with many others quite as in- 
teresting but far more ludicrous. In fact, yours is a book for the millwn, and if that 
million only have sense enough to buy and appreciate it, it will be a pleasing proof 
of healthy intelligence." — Late Rev. Jesse Pound. 

" A book full of curious research and information upon a subject that concerns us 
all, and hitherto unexplored. 
" It could not be better done." — Late Lt.-Gen. WinfieM Scott. 

" I have read with much interest your very pleasant and agreeable book upon the 
Markets of New York. 

" It exhibits much research, and presents a great number of incidents of the early 
history of New York which I have never before seen in print, although familiar to me 
as one of the older residents. 

" It is, as far as my own memory extends, perfectly reliable in all its leading facts, 
and I hope you will continue your labors in this department of local history so inter- 
esting to us, who have grown with the growth of this great city and who can remem- 
ber when it was a small one." — Major-Gen. Charles W. Sandford. 

" I regret I lack the ability fully to describe the enjoyment I experienced in looking 
over its pages, and what I think of your great industry, devotion, and untiring re- 
search and perseverance in bringing together so many and such various subjects and 
incidents in connection with the history of the markets. I find related with great 
truthfulness many circumstances of which I myself in my younger days was cogniz- 
*nt, — many incidents of the olden times which I have received as traditions from 
older persons, — many names of distinguished individuals, some of whom I have 



6 

known personally, and others with whose positions and actions I have been familiar 
In my estimation, it is a book the perusal of which cannot fail to greatly interest 
those who take pleasure in whatever relates to the days gone by, and the unexampled 
growth and prosperity of our goodly city, not only in its markets, but in every thing 
else which adds to our comfort and enjoyment." — Major-Gen. Henry T. Kiersted. 

"I think you have done good service to the public in carefully collecting the facts 
that you have brought together and presenting them in a form both interesting and 
statistical. 

" It is a literary virtue that you have not attempted to go outside of your subject; 
and the step by step progress that has brought our city from a wilderness to its pres- 
ent greatness is well and interestingly shown in your book of markets. 

" I esteem the subject of good markets and market regulations of the first impor- 
tance to the health and comfort of a great city, and any thing that directs the public 
mind in the right channel is a public benefit. 

"After devoting so much time to this subject and presenting it in so able a form, 
I hope you will go still further and give the city the benefit of your experience and 
practical knowledge of how to bring the producer and consumer nearer together, and 
to supply our markets abundantly with wholesome food. 

"I believe every citizen owes you thanks for your labors thus far; and rich and 
poor will alike be indebted to you for much needed reform that may follow your fur- 
ther investigation of the subject." — Brig. -Gen. William Hall. 

" I have read the history of the Markets written by you, and have done so with a 
great deal of pleasure, as it has brought back to my memory youthful days and recol- 
lections of more than fifty years ago, and traditionary a great many more on the back 
of that, — the many remarkable events and incidents which occurred around the old 
market-places, — Peck Slip, Exchange, Oswego, Catherine, Bear, and the old Fly 
Market, all of which have been most faithfully portrayed by you. It also calls back 
to my knowledge and associations the names of Thomas Gibbons, David Marsh, 
David Seaman, Mathew Vogel, and many other old butchers whose lives are exam- 
ples worthy of being recorded on the brightest pages of history. To me this is a 
valuable book, and what pleases me more than all is that its author is one of the pro- 
fession, who I think ought to be promptly encouraged, not only by all belonging to it, 
but by every New Yorker." — Col. William Appleby. 

" My time has been so much occupied as to prevent my making as yet more than a 
hasty examination of the volume ; but even that has disclosed enough to warrant my 
hearty commendation of the work. It evinces most industrious and successful re- 
search, the results of which are admirably arranged. Its historical fullness will afford 
valuable aid to our city authorities in the matter of market legislation. The high 
literary excellence which characterizes the style of the book adds much to the inter- 
est of the narrative, and must render it not only interesting and instructive to the 
antiquarian, but inviting to the general reader." — Hon. George Opdyke. 

" I have just finished the perusal of your work entitled ' The Market-Book,' and 
certainly found it far more interesting than I had expected. 

" Had you confined yourself simply to the subject indicated by the title of the 
work, it would still have possessed great interest, as showing the early modes of sup- 
plying the city with the means of daily subsistence and the almost patriarchal con- 
trol of the Common Council in reference to the establishment of public markets ; their 
supply of country produce ; and the system of licensing butchers and others to occupy 
stands, and dispose of provisions thereon. But you have done much more than this. 



You have for the first time collected the scattered and curious materials of the city's 
early domestic history in a volume of ample proportions, and have superadded various 
legends, from living witnesses who still linger on the verge of time, and which would 
have been forever lost, had not your industry and perseverance thus rescued them 
from oblivion. 

" In my course of reading in ancient and even in modern history, I have often 
regretted that the limits of the historian did not permit him to unfold more of the 
social habits and occupations of the people, and that little appears in history but its 
more salient points, such as national wars, revolutions, and the change of dynasties. 
It is true Hallam has done more, and so has Macaulay, and a few others of our recent 
historians ; but in the matter of social history, which is after all the great exponent 
of human happiness, little has been or perhaps could have been accomplished. 

" In view of the above, it has been gratifying to me to find that you left the tented 
field, with garments rolled in blood, (I mean human blood,) and all the pomp and cir- 
cumstance of glorious war, to take care of themselves, and that you have become the 
less ambitious chronicler of the plain, every-day lives of the honest, sturdy burghers 
of the past, telling our present degenerate boys and girls that the colossal fortunes of 
many of our citizens commenced in the simple, persevering industry of their ances- 
tors ; thus showing that while labor may appear antiquated to many, it is the only 
sure foundation and precursor of enduring prosperity. 

" So too you have told us that Pope was not mistaken when he said that 

" ' Honor and shame from no condition rise ; 
Act well your part, there all the honor lies. 1 

" The unpretending man who retails meat, and the woman who did the same by 
vegetables, were found, when the emergencies required it, among the ranks of the 
patriot and philanthropist ; facing death in the battle-field or at the bed of the sufferer 
from malignant disease, and leading or following in all that was calculated to elevate 
humanity, or enlarge the boundaries of human happiness. 

" Your work contains also much of the facetious and joyous, for at those early pe- 
riods business did not make such heavy drafts on leisure ; there was more time, as the 
proverb has it, ' tojaugh and grow fat^ ' and the butcher who drove fat oxen enjoyed 
his laugh, and did not leave all the fat to the oxen. In a word, those who suppose 
that your work (from its title) is limited in its range, or dry and uninteresting in its 
details, had better be disabused at once by reading it, and they will assuredly become 
convinced, as I have, that no genuine New Yorker should be without it." 

Hon. Thomas Jeremiah. 

" I have read the work with pleasure and interest. The great labor and research 
you have bestowed upon it makes it a valuable addition to the history of our city. 
Although the work ostensibly treats of the public markets and market-places of the 
city of New York, yet it contains a vast fund of information and personal history 
very difficult to be obtained. I trust you will receive such patronage for this work 
that the second volume you are preparing may be placed at an early day in our 
hands." — John W. Chambers, Esq. 

" The author of this book subscribes his modest preface, ' Thomas F. De Voe, 
Butcher," 1 a title which, in connection with that which graces his title-page, gives 
assurance of the solid character of his book. He is an author in spite of himself. 
Having been led to make some researches in the archives of the New York Historical 
Society to gratify his own curiosity as to the antiquities of his profession, he was in- 
duced to prepare a paper on this subject, and to read it before the Society in acknowl- 



8 

edgment of its services to him. His labors were so warmly received that the expand- 
ing of his paper into a book was simply a development in the order of Nature. The 
book itself is best described by the following sentence from its second title-page: 
1 This volume contains a history of the public markets of the city of New York, from 
its first settlement to the present time, with numerous curious and remarkable inci- 
dents connected therewith, the introduction of cattle, supplies, trading, prices, and 
laws; sketches of the old burgher butchers, and the licensed butchers of modern 
times; together with a compilation of facts of every sort and character relating to the 
subject.' 

" Not the least edifying portions of this book are those in which the chronicle runs 
parallel with that of Diedrich Knickerbocker; it is sometimes hard to say whether 
the literal record of the days of Van Twiller and Kieft or the mock-heroic history is 
the more grotesque. Some idea of the relative value of commodities of the market 
and the loom in 1638 may be formed from a legal transaction of that date, described 
as follows : ' Cornelius Petersen appeared before the Secretary Van Tienhoven, and 
declared with true Christian affirmation, in lieu of a solemn oath, that it was true that 
he had purchased a hog from Ann Jackson, in payment of which she took from his 
store so much of purpled cloth as was sufficient for a petticoat.' It is easy enough, as 
every one knows, by mere excerpts such as this from antique records and documents 
to insure a certain kind and measure of interest for a book treating of local habits, 
customs, and institutions ; but our author succeeds not less in giving entertainment 
to his readers as he approaches our own times, and narrates the results of his own ob- 
servation and experience within familiar precincts. 

" The book is really a curious one, and to be commended to the student of manners 
and customs. We trust Mr. De Voe will not disappoint us of a second volume. 
Some of the material which he collects and preserves is of a kind to amuse and en- 
tertain, if not greatly to instruct, posterity." — North American Review. 

" The first volume of ' The Market-Book,' by Thomas F. De Voe, is in the market. 
As you can generally judge of a man by his face, s,o you can of a book by its preface. 
The preface of this is dated from Jefferson Market, and signed ' Thomas F. De Voe, 
Butcher.' There is an honesty about this opening especially commendable. The 
author of a very recent publication dated from the Fifth Avenue Hotel — he probably 
wished to have the world know that he lived there. Mr. De Voe also wishes his 
friends to know where he is to be found, and, accordingly, dates from^ his place of 
business. He is a butcher by trade, — a good one, we will guarantee, — and he writes 
himself so. He considers his profession quite as honorable as those of banker, broker, 
lawyer, or physician. And he is right. Why should we accord a respect to that 
man who mixes us pills and prescribes draughts, which we refuse to give to him who 
furnishes us with palatable' steaks and juicy joints? And so on through the list. It 
is customary to bow to the man who discounts a bill for us at an enormous ' shave,' 
and to exchange cards with one who loses or gains for us a lawsuit that proves the 
ruin of all parties concerned, while we speak rather condescendingly, or nod patroniz- 
ingly, to our butchers and bakers. Much of this sort of thing will be changed some 
time before the Millennium commences. 

" In giving us this history of the markets, Mr. De Voe very nearly furnishes us with 
a history of our city. In all manner of queer recesses and out-of-the-way receptacles, 
he seems to have dived and delved for the material of his book ; and as facts gener- 
ally lie in clusters, like oysters or potatoes, the consequence is, that he has fished up 
many that are of interest to even those who care little about market reform and 
the steady progress and gradual development of the butcher's art. Commencing with 
the reign of Wouter Van Twiller, Mr. De Voe brings his history down to that of 



Wood. Interesting as it always is to watch the progress of the professions — to fol- 
.ow the feeble footsteps of their infancy until the field comes to ring with the firm, as- 
sured tread of their virility — it is especially so to follow the progress of those that 
pertain to killing, to mark the dawn of the art, the gradual development, and the slow 
but sure degrees by which it has been brought to perfection. In military science, 
from the club of Abel to the columbiad of the present day is a step, somewhat long, 
but instructive and amusing to take. In the medical profession, between the first 
rude appliances of the art to the perfected prescriptions and deftly constructed in- 
struments which now lie ready to the chirurgeon's hand, lies a path of progress 
that it is pleasant to trace. And all the foregoing remarks apply to the butcher's 
trade. 

" We are willing to stake our reputation that this first cut of Mr. De Voe's in the 
literary line will please even that most fastidious of customers — the reading public." 
New York Times. 

" Of'all the curious works which a spirit of antiquarian research has yet produced 
in the United States, this book is the most remarkable. History, when devoted to the 
recital of noble actions and great events, is sufficiently interesting to attract intelligent 
readers of all classes. It is a more confined sphere which limits the local chronicler 
to a tedious and industrious unearthing and narration of the comparatively petty 
events which have occurred in the progress of a count}'- or township. Nothing but a 
strong enthusiasm can repay the annalist for his labor in reviving the memory of 
events that seem but trivial in comparison to the more solemn transactions which 
mark the progress of communities. The investigator of family history may indulge 
a hereditary pride in gathering the personal reminiscences which preserve the mem- 
ory of good and useful actions, and which reflect credit upon the descendants of the 
worthy. But who would have thought that a handsome and interesting book could 
be made out of the dry records of the markets of a large city ? Evidently it would 
require for such a task a gentleman whose connection with the business of buying 
and selling produce was carried on under a feeling of the dignity and importance of 
his vocation. Such a man the writer of this singular and highly interesting volume 
seems to be. Claiming fraternity with the important guild of butchers, having for 
years carried on the business with honor and profit, having also distinguished himself 
as a good citizen, useful in many local enterprises, Colonel Thomas F. De Voe has 
made of this work a labor of love and pride. It is, in fact, a minute and faithful his- 
tory of the New York markets from the earliest times, embracing therein matter of 
local interest and reminiscences of the progress of the great city, which very fitly 
illustrate the character of a people with whom good eating is a prime necessity. It is 
quaint, and in many particulars strange, illustrating the character of the people who 
bought at the markets as much as it does the characters of farmers, truckmen, fish- 
ermen, and butchers, who supplied the wants of a large population. There are many 
persons of antiquarian tastes to whom this singular book will be attractive. We 
recommend it to them as an oddity in history, original in the design, curious in par- 
ticulars, and evidently exhausting in its treatment of the topics chosen. The second 
volume, which is now in preparation, will be devoted to the history of the markets in 
other cities than New York, including our own. From the industry and assiduity 
displayed in volume first we can confidently promise that very much of our market 
history long since forgotten will be brought to light and placed in such a permanent 
form that it will in all time to come prove a permanent and enduring record for pres- 
grvation and instruction." — Philadelphia Sunday Dispatch. 

" Tom Quick says: ' We have many items of great interest to the old and new 



10 

butchers that we have, in the kindest manner, been allowed to take from the notes 
of an Old Sport who has not spent his days nor nights in idleness, but to the end that 
he might serve up a rich feast of facts concerning the butchers of Gotham, from the 
year 1656 to the present day ; his searches among bygone carcasses have enabled him 
to give one great work on our Markets, which is now before the public as " The 
Market-Book," by Thomas F. De Voe, Butcher; and also caused him to declare his 
intentions of adding another volume on the same subject up to the present time. 
I shall freely, by his permission, use portions of the rich cream the book is so full 
of. No butcher, or butcher's family, should be without this great work of a " boss " 
upon their reading- table.' " — New York Leader. 

" ' The Market-Book,' containing a historical account of the Public Markets in the 
cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Brooklyn, with a brief description of 
every article of human food sold therein, the introduction of cattle into America, and 
notices of many remarkable specimens, by Thomas F. De Voe, member of the New 
York Historical Society, in 2 vols., Vol. I. (New York: printed for the author, 1862,) 
is a very notable and meritorious work. The author, a self-made man, long engaged 
in the State militia of New York, and himself practically conversant with and mov- 
ing in the sphere of the market, has amassed here an amount of curious and interest- 
ing information truly prodigious. The first volume is occupied with a minute sketch 
of each of the many New York markets, from the earliest period of the settlement of 
the country to the present time. Mr. De Voe has evidently been at an infinite 
amount of pains to sift and winnow the early records, the journals of courts, the city 
newspapers, the law reports, private letters and collections, public libraries and ar- 
chives, histories, books, tracts, petitions, and legislative proceedings ; but it is clearly 
a work of love. We presume no history of New York has been written which contains 
so much entertaining knowledge about early manners and customs ; the style of liv- 
ing; the kinds of food used; public and private entertainments; price of provisions; 
the local changes of streets, buildings, and markets ; the food, drink, and clothing of 
the people; anecdotes of the colonial era; history of the wars, panics, taxes, laws, 
morals, crimes, punishments of different eras. The journal of Winthrop, the local 
histories of Wood, and other English chroniclers, are the things one is reminded of in 
reading Mr. De Voe. Every page has on it something worth knowing and worth 
remembering. A careful index of the butchers whose names occur in the work, and 
a general index, add much to the practical utility of the book. We commend ' The 
Market-Book' (Vol. I.) to our local readers in New York and the vicinity. Some 
of the novi homines may wince under the publication of the fact that their ancestors 
held the very necessary and respectable post of the Fulton, Washington, or Tomp- 
kin's commissariats of the city: but those who measure family renown by use, and 
who believe that 

' Honor and shame from no condition rise ; 
Act well your part, there all the honor lies,' 

will not be ashamed to be descended from the honorable and benevolent butchers of 
New York, among whom are as fine men as any in this world. Mr. De Voe's work 
will have a wide and interested circulation. Thousands in each of the great cities, 
whose annals, in this respect, he proposes to record, will wish to see such a mass of 
valuable and curious information." — Christian Inquirer. 

" The first volume is a history of the public markets of New York, with sketches 
of many of the principal butchers, from the earliest time down to some now living. 
Statements and descriptions are introduced, interspersed with anecdotes, so that one 



11 

gains a very clear idea of the habits of the people, the laws of the city, and the loca- 
tion of the markets ; and in whatever has any connection with the sale of human 
food, the book is particularly fall and clear. The history of public buildings, streets, 
squares, ferries, of the origin of now prominent and wealthy families, of the Revolu- 
tionary War, and of important civil and military events as successively they had a 
bearing on the craft, give to the work ever-varying interest. We have perused it 
with very great pleasure and instruction, and find everywhere evidence of great dis- 
crimination and accuracy. It has especial interest to the agriculturist, because not 
only the first introduction of neat cattle and small cattle into New Netherlands is re- 
corded, but changes in the character of market stock are noted, as well as record 
made of the most notable animals; and in a subsequent volume, in which histories of 
the markets of other cities also will be given, Mr. De Voe purposes to discuss the ways 
in which various kinds of meat, and other produce, are brought to market, and to de- 
scribe every article of food sold in the public market, the manner of its production, 
and how it is prepared for sale." — American Agriculturist. 

" Volume I. of this work has lately been published, and is in many respects a re- 
markable production. Going back to the earliest period of the settlement of this city, 
it gives the origin and progress of all the market-places, together with a detailed ac- 
count of the manner of doing business, the habits, customs, and laws of the people 
through many generations, historical reminiscences of all the prominent market peo- 
ple and dealers, and a full and faithful history of all events and places in any manner 
relating to markets or market business. As a part of the history of the city of New 
York, it deserves more than usual attention, covering, as it does, a field hitherto un- 
explored ; and the fund of biographical lore and anecdote, with which it is liberally 
interspersed, makes it one of the most readable books of the times. To the old New 
Yorker it must be of great value and interest, and many of the aristocratic leaders of 
the present generation can not fail to trace back their lineage to some of the many 
hundred names among the honored class of butchers. As a historian, Mr. De Voe is 
accurate and truthful, and the whole work shows a labored research ; undoubtedly a 
labor of love, yet one that has required close application and a deal of hard work. We 
shall welcome with pleasure the appearance of the second volume, but sincerely 
hope that it will not end the historical writings of such an agreeable and instructive 
writer." — The Horticulturist. 

" The butchers of New York are and have always been a most respectable and 
flourishing class in society. Generally honest, intelligent, independent men, with 
proverbially robust health and remarkable physical development, the ' butcher boys ' 
have never failed to exert a weighty influence in the community. It is not strange, 
then, that they should have their historian, and that he should be a prominent mem- 
ber of their own order. To be a good butcher is a good thing ; but to be a good 
butcher and a good author at the same time does not often happen, even in New 
York. Col. Thos. F. De Voe, of Jefferson Market, is well known as a prince among 
the butchers. He has a*lso made his mark as a military man, having won himself 
a good name by the excellent state of discipline and drill to which he brought a regi- 
ment of militia mostly composed of stalwart butchers. Once or twice he has appeared 
at the Historical Society as a reader of a paper on the great men among the butchers 
in past days. But now he comes before the public as a full-fledged author in an en- 
tertaining volume of 621 pages, giving a historical account of the public markets in 
this city from the earliest record to the present time, with personal notices of many 
remarkable men in his line of business. 

" This is only the first volume of the work. In a second, Col. De Voe proposes at 



12 

some future time to give similar accounts of the markets of Boston, Philadelphia, and 
Brooklyn, and of every article of human food sold therein. In the volume at present 
issued, the Colonel has done himself infinite credit, and has managed to invest with 
interest a naturally rather dry subject to any but the antiquarian. From piles of 
musty old documents, family memoranda, society archives, etc., he has extracted 
notices of over twelve hundred butchers, from Wm. Clasen, Gerit Jansen Roos, and 
Jan Van Haerlan, who were the first sworn butchers T appointed in November, 1656, 
to the Hardenbrooks, who were the lessees of Harlem Market in 1857. Many of these 
butchers were notable men in their day, and some of them rose to high public posi- 
tions. Not a few of them furnish Col. De Voe with material for interesting anecdotes, 
and all seem worthy of being dragged from the obscurity in which they have so long 
been hidden from public notice. 

" "With indefatigable industry and perseverance, Col. De Voe appears to have col- 
lected almost every particular in regard to the public markets and market-places of 
this city. His book is a feast for the lover of quaint accounts of the way things were 
done two hundred years ago, and is a capital illustration of the gradual progress of 
this city from the crude matter-of-fact simplicity of the days of ' the Company's store,' 
to the polish of the present day. It abounds in extracts from documents, and many 
of the transactions of its characters are told in their own language, with faithful ad- 
herence to grammar, orthography, and style." — Evening Express. 

" * The Market-Book,' giving a historical account of the markets of our city, from 
their foundation ; that is, altogether covering a period from 1625 to 1861. This sur- 
vey is not barrenly rendered ; it is constantly enlivened by quaint extracts from the 
ancient records, anecdotes of the trade, stories of the olden days of the town, mad-cap 
frolics, and exploits of heroes of the stall. With these, however, we have the solid 
history carefully prepared, for Mr. De Voe is a most diligent collector, who traces up 
every fact and incident to their utmost source. He writes without affectation or at- 
tempt at finery ; and has really furnished one of the most agreeable, useful, and in- 
structive of all our volumes of local history ; and has inseparably connected his name 
with the future renown of his native city." — The New-Yorker. 

" This is a most curious contribution to local history; but when the history of the 
New York markets affords matter for a volume of over six hundred pages, it was 
well worth the writing, and the task could not have fallen into better hands than 
those of the painstaking, industrious, and discriminating author of this work, who 
proudly styles himself ' Butcher,' in his preface to his literary labor. The matter is 
purely history of New York city; and in treating of the various markets, the author 
gives, to a considerable extent, the history of the city itself, especially of its social 
life." — Historical Magazine. 

" It is not often that bullocks and books share pretty equally the attention of one 
man. The slaughtering of beeves and the writing of books are not generally re- 
garded as congenial occupations, albeit authors in the main have no antipathy to 
beef, and are often indebted to ' sheepskin ' for a covering. But this is an age of 
progress, and the same hand that profitably wields the cleaver now gracefully guides 
the pen. There lies before us a very handsomely printed octavo volume of some six 
hundred and twenty pages, bearing the title '■ The Market -Book, containing a histor- 
ical account of the public markets in the cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, 
&nd~Brooklyn, with a brief description of eveiy article of human food sold therein ; 
the introduction of cattle in America, and notices of many remarkable specimens.' 
The author is Thomas F. De Voe, who signs himself { Butcher,' is a member of the 



13 

New York Historical Society, and holds also the military rank of Colonel. All hail 
to the cleaver and the pen ! Who will deny that the world moves, and that butchers 
keep it moving ? Hurra for the union of butchering and book making ! Success to 
the man who slaughters cattle, but gives life to history. 

" Nay, stop, Mr. Cynic. We do not mean that ' The Market-Book ' is a specimen 
of butchery in book-making. Far from it. That Col. De Voe — a modest claim to 
descent from De Foe, doubtless — lacks Addison's purity and Junius's classic force of 
diction we will admit. That the supervision of some one practiced in the art of com- 
position would have in some respects improved our author's style, we will not deny. 
But then the work would have been no longer the sole production of ' Thomas F. De 
Voe, Butcher,' which mades it as unique as it is meritorious. Very quaintly and 
pleasantly does the Colonel tell us how the author grew up side by side with the 
butcher, giving him pleasant thoughts and occupations in return for savory steaks 
and juicy roasting pieces; for as it ever happens in this mundane sphere, the latter 
has the larger share of the good things of this life. The butcher became rich and 
plethoric; the author would only have nibbled his pen in the vain search for nutri- 
tious juices. But with a well-filled larder at all times accessible, the author set him- 
self cheerfully and industriously to work, and the result is this ' first ' of we know not 
how many volumes of a really valuable and interesting ' historical account ' of an 
institution to which we are all immensely indebted." — Commercial Advertiser. 

" This work is in two volumes, and Vol. No. I. is before us. It is a very singular 
volume. In the first place the title-page has no punctuation marks at all ; in the sec- 
ond place the preface is as full of them as if they had been sprinkled from a pepper- 
box. As for the literary contents of the volume, we may justly say that they are 
written in a plain, unpretending, very intelligible style, and narrate in an interesting 
manner the history of various markets. The narration is rendered the more en- 
tertaining because the author indulges in a multitude of amusing episodes, and when 
carried away by an incidental suggestion elaborates it to its fullest extent, returning 
subsequently to his original starting-point. Thus the ' Markets ' become a series of 
pegs on which are hung a world of curious old facts and singular reminiscences. Mr. 
De Voe has made a useful and agreeable volume, and we trust that No. II. will pos- 
sess the same elements of value and popularity." — The Times and Messenger. 

" The leisure hours of the author during the intervals of business as a practical 
market-man in Jefferson Market have been devoted to the preparation of this work. 
He has sought his materials in the collections of the New York Historical Society, 
and numerous other authentic sources, and with the genuine enthusiasm of the anti- 
quary, has spared neither time nor labor in the prosecution of his researches. The 
volume abounds in curious details of .the olden time, and places the manners and 
customs of the early settlers of Manhattan in a clear and interesting light, besides 
giving a complete historical view of the specific subject to which it is devoted." — 
Daily Tribune. 

" The work will consist of two volumes, and the first, which is just issued, is de- 
voted to the markets of this city, from its settlement to the present time. One of the 
most interesting features of the book is the personal sketches of the old burgher 
butchers, who occupied stalls in the Old Slip and Fly Market in the early part of the 
last century. The entire contents, indeed, possess great interest, and are valuable 
additions to our local history. Colonel De Voe has executed his work in a successful 
manner, and given a plain, concise, and reliable account of his subject. The work is 
worthy of a place in the library of every Knickerbocker in the land. We cordially 



14 

commend the book to our readers. The worthy author has several times read papers 
on the subject before the New York Historical Society, which have elicited much at- 
tention. He is another instance of what may be accomplished by industry, persever- 
ance, and talents." — Home Journal. 

" The following communication, which will be read with interest, is from an eru- 
dite and able pen, and treats upon a subject both uniqtie and piquant. We are no 
believers in the aristocracy of wealth, and conceive that no affluent or eminent man 
ought to be ashamed of his ancestors because they earned an honest living by their 
industry. 'Honor and shame from no condition rise,' says the poet; and we agree 
with him. There are people, though, who go into agonies over their recollections of 
the social status of their grandfathers, and no doubt all such will deem our correspond- 
ent very just in his quaint observations: 

" To the Editors of the Sunday Times : 

" Gentlemen, — I have just arisen from the perusal of a very singular sort of 
book lately published by one Thomas F. De Voe, ' member of the New York Histori- 
cal Society, etc.,' as he signs himself on the title-page, and ' Butcher,' as he writes 
after his signature to the preface. The work in question is called ' The Market- 
Book,' and professes to contain ' a historical account of the public markets in the 
cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and Brooklyn, &c, &c, &c.' The author 
appears to have taken a great deal of pains to gather facts and dates, and I have no 
doubt that his book will be treasured up as a valuable contribution to local history. 
His researches have led him into many interesting fields of knowledge, and occasion- 
ally he digresses from the main subject in a most agreeable manner and with very 
entertaining results. 

" It seems to me, however, that he might have spared the feelings of several of the 
first families in New York by omitting to mention some disagreeable and humiliat- 
ing facts. He treats genealogy as he would an ox. He bleeds, cuts, dissects, and 
flays without remorse. Without the slightest regard for the sensitive feelings of the 
present generation, he publishes to the world — and gives names and dates, tool — 
that many of our wealthiest citizens, residing in the Fifth Avenue, or living in luxury 
abroad, are descended from butchers ! 

" Now, you will allow, Messrs. Editors, that a man is not responsible, morally, so- 
cially, or otherwise, for the conduct of his grandfather. If my grandfather chose the 
trade of a butcher, why should I be blamed for it ? This is my case exactly. My 
father's father was a butcher, and, just as my family had almost outlived the disa- 
greeable memory, along comes this ' member of the New York Historical Society — 
Thomas F. De Voe, Butcher,'' and blurts out the whole thing before the world. He 
deliberately puts upon record a fact which I have always endeavored to keep from 
my children, and of which my very wife was ignorant until she saw my grandfather's 
name conspicuously paraded in the book. 

" There may be no remedy for this outrage. The book may not be libelous. The 
law may give me no relief. If I were to sue Mr. De Voe, he might admit the pub- 
lication, and justify, as the lawyers call it, by proving my paternal ancestor's trade, 
which would only give greater notoriety to a circumstance I had hoped might pass 
out of human recollection. Besides, there might.be two or three butchers on the 
jury, and then my chance for damages would be small indeed. 

" -All I can do, therefore, is to denounce the author of ' The Market-Book ' as a reck- 
less disturber of family pride. In behalf of many proud and wealthy families of 
New York, I denounce him. He might have told the world all about Bear Market 



15 

and Vlie Market, when they were built, where they stood, &c. ; but he should have 
kept to himself the names of the men who sold meat there. He had no right to re- 
mind us that our grandfathers trundled mutton to market in a wheelbarrow, and then 
carried it to their customers on a wooden tray. The cause of historical truth, for 
which Mr. De Voe affects so much veneration, would have been quite as well served 
had he omitted names and disagreeable details. It is to be hoped that these sugges- 
tions will, in the next edition of his book, receive the attention to which they are en- 
titled. Should they be disregarded, I now give him due notice and timely warning 
that I shall not be responsible for the consequences. Your obedient servant, 

"An Indignant Gentleman. 
" Gramercy Park, March 11, 1862." 

—The Times and Messenger, 














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